sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Nickel plated polyimide--where to get? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bee83d05dbdcb50?hl=en
* Two phases or not? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
* Pet hates ? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
* Reduce power of a microwave oven? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/76e6c7ef368fc8a0?hl=en
* Fender Frontman 212R amp, 2010 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d6a83c2aaabd02?hl=en
* Yamaha PF 1000 piano , 2002 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2fdc9f41e99e9293?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nickel plated polyimide--where to get?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bee83d05dbdcb50?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 7:25 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

Bill Sloman wrote:
> On Jan 21, 5:32 am, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSensel...@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>> I have a partly-baked idea for improving temperature controllers, but it
>> requires a bunch of nickel plated polyimide film--say 3 to 8 mils thick,
>> with 40 microinches of electroless nickel on it.
>>
>> I need to pattern it and then solder to it. Copper is too conductive,
>> which is a pity, since I already have a roll of polyimide with 1/2 oz Cu
>> on it.
>
> Could you do electro-etching to thin the copper down until it was
> resistive enough? You would need to get down from 12.5 micron of
> copper to about 0.03 micron, which would be tricky - since the copper
> isn't going to be a uniform 12.5 micron thick layer to start with,
> you'd probably end up with a network of isolated islands if you tried
> to do it in one hit.
>
> Alternating electro-erosion and electro-polishing might work.
>
> I've been in situations where even a single-atom thick layer of metal
> was too conductive for my purposes, but 40 microinches/ 1 micron of
> nickel would be a good deal more conductive than that.
>
> --
> Bill Sloman, Nijmegen

Copper is not going to work--you need some reasonable thickness to get
continuity. A pity.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 11:57 pm
From: Robert Baer

Phil Hobbs wrote:
> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> "Phil Hobbs"<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in message
>> news:5d2dnTpQK8jsJaTQnZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@supernews.com...
>>> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>
>>>> Wouldn't it be possible to make the polyimide conductive by rubbing
>>>> graphite into its surface ("The Audio Amateur" had at least one article
>>>> about home-made electrostatic speakers that showed how to do this
>>>> with Mylar), then plate it?
>>
>>> I'd be worried about the film adhesion--the nickel would only stick as
>>> well as the graphite. Plating plastic involves stuff like chromic acid
>>> dips, reducing palladium salts to form Pd nucleation sites on the film,
>>> and then electroless plating.
>>> Not your ideal home project unfortunately!
>>
>> Thanks for the clarification.
>>
>> This is the sort of problem you'd think would have been solved decades
>> ago.
>> The original SX-70 used copper-coated (plated?) polysulfone, which was
>> then
>> plated with nickel and chrome. The plating sticks to the plastic with a
>> tenacity that's almost unbelievable. You actually have to break the
>> plastic
>> before the plating comes loose.
>>
>>
>
> Oh, it's been solved, all right--Minco advertises nickel film RTDs. I
> tried to get them to make the films, but they either couldn't or didn't
> want to, and I didn't want to have to deal with making artwork--I'm
> going to pattern it with a Sharpie and some ferric chloride. (Ferric
> chloride works well on thin sputtered nickel, so I'm hoping the plated
> stuff doesn't have some weird passivation. I should try it out on a
> bolt or something before I take the plunge. Of course I can also
> electropolish it away in KOH solution.)
>
> BTW the Minco rep is a good guy, who gave me a steer to somebody who may
> be their supplier--I just haven't heard from them yet.
>
> Anyway, if it works, I'll try licensing it to them. ;) It should be
> good for at least 100x reduction in thermal forcing for the down-hole
> application I'm working on--sort of the thermal equivalent of a Faraday
> shield.
>
> Cheers
>
> Phil Hobbs
>
Jut had a dumb idea..how about unrolling mylar or other plastic caps?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Two phases or not?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 7:27 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"David Nebenzahl"
>
> I'm posting this to try to settle an argument going on in another
> newsgroup (alt.home.repair) about phases in electrical power.
>
> Over there, someone posted a question about GFCI breakers that morphed
> into a discussion of multiphase electrical power. A disagreement arose
> thereafter about whether a center-tapped transformer actually delivers two
> separate phases of electricity or not. I'd like to get opinions here,
> since at least some folks here have engineering backgrounds: over there
> (a.h.r.), not so much. People there tend to be more electrician types,
> rather than EEs and such.
>
> The discussion started with a mention of 2-phase power. Turns out that in
> the world of electrical power, this has a specific meaning. It refers to a
> now-obsolete system of generating power in 2 phases that were 90° apart,
> and was used at Niagara Falls:
>
> http://www.3phasepower.org/2phasesystems.htm
>
> And of course there's 3-phase power, widely used today.
>
> The problem is this: several people, myself included, contend that the two
> "legs" of power produced by a center-tapped transformer do, in fact,
> constitute two separate phases of power, 180° apart. (This is how
> household power is delivered in North America, with a step-down xfmr at
> the power pole delivering 240 volts in the form of 120-0-120.)
>
> Now it's true that in the electrical industry, this is called
> "split-phase" power, and if you tried to tell the guy behind the counter
> at the electrical supply house that it's 2-phase, he'd look at you funny.
>
> However, I (and others) say that this is, in fact, true 2-phase power,
> even if it's not called that. It just happens to be trivially easy to
> generate it from a single phase, as it only involves inversion. (Unlike
> 3-phase, which requires rotary converters or electronic devices to
> generate from single-phase power.)
>
> Take, for example, any push-pull amplifier with a phase inverter or phase
> splitter in front of it: it generates two separate phases out of a single
> phase.
>
> So, what do y'all say?

** It's clearly two phase power, no doubt about that.

There are two AC waves that differ only in phase and if both "phases" are
loaded equally, the neutral current is zero.

So it is completely analogous to three phase power.

The 90 degree system is just an obsolete odd ball only a moronic pedant
would even mention.

.... Phil

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 8:05 pm
From: Jamie

David Nebenzahl wrote:
> I'm posting this to try to settle an argument going on in another
> newsgroup (alt.home.repair) about phases in electrical power.
>
> Over there, someone posted a question about GFCI breakers that morphed
> into a discussion of multiphase electrical power. A disagreement arose
> thereafter about whether a center-tapped transformer actually delivers
> two separate phases of electricity or not. I'd like to get opinions
> here, since at least some folks here have engineering backgrounds: over
> there (a.h.r.), not so much. People there tend to be more electrician
> types, rather than EEs and such.
>
> The discussion started with a mention of 2-phase power. Turns out that
> in the world of electrical power, this has a specific meaning. It refers
> to a now-obsolete system of generating power in 2 phases that were 90°
> apart, and was used at Niagara Falls:
>
> http://www.3phasepower.org/2phasesystems.htm
>
> And of course there's 3-phase power, widely used today.
>
> The problem is this: several people, myself included, contend that the
> two "legs" of power produced by a center-tapped transformer do, in fact,
> constitute two separate phases of power, 180° apart. (This is how
> household power is delivered in North America, with a step-down xfmr at
> the power pole delivering 240 volts in the form of 120-0-120.)
>
> Now it's true that in the electrical industry, this is called
> "split-phase" power, and if you tried to tell the guy behind the counter
> at the electrical supply house that it's 2-phase, he'd look at you funny.
>
> However, I (and others) say that this is, in fact, true 2-phase power,
> even if it's not called that. It just happens to be trivially easy to
> generate it from a single phase, as it only involves inversion. (Unlike
> 3-phase, which requires rotary converters or electronic devices to
> generate from single-phase power.)
>
> Take, for example, any push-pull amplifier with a phase inverter or
> phase splitter in front of it: it generates two separate phases out of a
> single phase.
>
> So, what do y'all say?
>
>
I do industrial EE work and terminology can really
get screwed up at times.

You have a CT (center Tap) this gives you 2 phases, using the
CT as the common, which of course are 180 degrees apart. How ever,
if you need 230 volts, you would need to use the 2 outer legs which
will only give you a single phase for that circuit. Hence, only
one winding over all. CT means nothing here.

To qualify for a phase, it must has a common or an opposing leg.

Lets look at a floating Delta 3 phase system, even though it has
no common to qualify it as 3 circuits 120 degree's out of phase, it
does have 3 separate windings, each 120 degree's out and can supply
a circuit on each winding if it wished.

Looking at a STAR (WYE), one end of each phase (winding) is connected
to a common point.. This common point does not need to be used but is in
some cases.

The point is, there are 3 individual windings that are out of phase
with each other. Makes it 3 phase...

In the case of residential, the CT will give you 2 phases of 180
degree's when you only need 115 volt circuits how ever, because the
transformer here is really only a single winding with a CT, when you
need full voltage for 230 appliances, that circuit ends up being
a single phase.. How ever, most appliances like that also have the
CT/Neutrual so it can use half of that to operate the control electronics.

Some people call it split phase, only because you are taking a single
phase and splitting it in the middle. But that does give you a 2 phase
source if you to use the CT as the common for both.. It would be the
same as 2 transformers with their secondaries joined on one side only to
form a CT.

Remember "Split Phase" only means a single winding with a CT it,
hence, you have split the phase in half!

Now here's a tricky one.. Just think of the 3 phase system with a CT
in each winding. Now we're talking ! :)

Jamie

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 10:50 pm
From: "Brenda Ann"

"Jamie" wrote in message news:xus_o.84$9r.2@newsfe19.iad...
Remember "Split Phase" only means a single winding with a CT it,
hence, you have split the phase in half!

Now here's a tricky one.. Just think of the 3 phase system with a CT
in each winding. Now we're talking ! :)

Jamie

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Never seen one like that, but have seen a center tap on one winding to add
240/120 split phase to 3 phase 240 Delta. Tap I've seen on Wye (star)
garners 120 from any phase to neutral and 208 from phase to phase. (all this
if my memory isn't completely FUBAR)

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 11:17 pm
From: nesesu

On Jan 21, 10:50 pm, "Brenda Ann" <newsgro...@fullspectrumradio.org>
wrote:
> "Jamie"  wrote in messagenews:xus_o.84$9r.2@newsfe19.iad...
>
>    Remember "Split Phase" only means a single winding with a CT it,
> hence, you have split the phase in half!
>
>   Now here's a tricky one..  Just think of the 3 phase system with a CT
> in each winding. Now we're talking ! :)
>
>   Jamie
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----
> Never seen one like that, but have seen a center tap on one winding to add
> 240/120 split phase to 3 phase 240 Delta. Tap I've seen on Wye (star)
> garners 120 from any phase to neutral and 208 from phase to phase. (all this
> if my memory isn't completely FUBAR)

The system you mention was somewhat common in the '30s for large
apartments/ medium hotels/ small commercial and the like where they
would have a centre tapped 115/230V say 50kVA transformer across one
phase and a pair of say 5kVA 230V transformers across the other two
phases of a 3 phase supply [typically 2300V back then] and connected
in delta with the 50kVA. The lighting and appliances were powered off
the 50kVA while the elevators and laundry motors were powered from the
3 phase. It seems that most of those systems were replaced with 3
phase 4 wire wye or one large single phase transformer and a three
transformer delta system when the primary distribution was upgraded or
when the customer load increased after WWII.
I still see the occasional 3 phase open delta [two transformers] where
the 3 phase load is fairly light such as rural irrigation pumps that
are a bit too large HP for single phase.

Neil S.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 8:34 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:O-SdnUSCo8VTp6fQnZ2dnUVZ_rKdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >
> > Arfa Daily wrote:
> >>
> >> "Chuck" <ch@deja.net> wrote in message
> >> news:f6ggj651ckeefgqjubs79cm9uvnq172l00@4ax.com...
> >> > On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 18:00:17 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
> >> > <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> >> >>news:ih744h$odu$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> >>> Lab1 <.@...> wrote in message
> >> >>> news:ih6ugq$mee$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> >>>> On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> >> >>>> > Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
> >> >>> conductive
> >> >>>> > surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure
> >> >>>> > why
> >> >>> it is
> >> >>>> > even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts
> >> >>> between. I
> >> >>>> > always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some
> >> >>>> > gets
> >> >>>> > on
> >> >>> my
> >> >>>> > clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>> The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never
> >> >>> organised
> >> >>> a
> >> >>> stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of
> >> >>> course,vice
> >> >>> versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for
> >> >>> UK
> >> >>> and
> >> >>> Japanese kit
> >> >>>
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >>I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
> >> >>for
> >> >>a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was
> >> >>a
> >> >>big
> >> >>difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
> >> >>direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of
> >> >>a
> >> >>piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
> >> >>could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
> >> >>thread
> >> >>that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what
> >> >>size
> >> >>they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being
> >> >>funny,
> >> >>"I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the
> >> >>guy
> >> >>asked. "American Piss Fit", said I ...
> >> >>
> >> >>Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
> >> >>boss's
> >> >>office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
> >> >>that
> >> >>it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering,
> >> >>and
> >> >>had
> >> >>called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily
> >> >>offence
> >> >>can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically
> >> >>the
> >> >>same language ... :-)
> >> >>
> >> >>Arfa
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I think it matters in what part of the U.S. this person resided. I'm
> >> > originally from the North East and humor that would be considered mild
> >> > there is considered a great affront to some people in the South.
> >> > However, racist remarks, that I find offensive, don't seem to bother
> >> > their delicate constitutions. Chuck
> >>
> >> He was in sunny Caffy-lornia ... Costa Mesa in Orange County, a few
> >> miles
> >> down the Interstate from LA
> >
> >
> > AKA: The land of Fruits and Nuts! ;-)
>
> Now now, Michael - that's no way to talk about that nice Mr Lieberman ....
> :-)

But, but, he likes to DESTROY things!!! ;-)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 2:11 pm
From: Michael Gross

Lab1 wrote:

>
> I'm from the US and I smoke cigarettes, not fags.
>

Michael Terrell's from the US and he smokes fags, not cigarettes.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 22 2011 2:02 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <%Hq_o.66$T65.29@newsfe17.ams2>,
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> I seem to recall from my early days of car tinkering in the 70's and
> 80's , that most of my spanners and my socket sets, were Whitworth and
> AF ?? That would have been for Morris Minors, Vauxhalls of all sorts
> including HA, HB and HC Vivas, a VX4/90 or two, and assorted Fords
> including Escorts and Cortinas and Sierras.

AF is the spanner size - across flats - and those fit UNF and UNC. Which
are basically American Fine and Course. Slightly confusing as a 1/2 AF
spanner fits a 5/16ths thread. All the above cars would have used UNF and
UNC.

Some post WW2 cars were basically pre WW2 designs - or used major
components from them, and may still have had BSF or BSW threads in use.
Nuffield products sometimes used a peculiar metric thread with BSW heads
just to confuse things.

--
*Succeed, in spite of management *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 22 2011 2:47 am
From: Peter Twydell

In message <jjVZo.11934$MD5.4765@newsfe23.ams2>, Arfa Daily
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes
>
>
>"Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote in message
>news:KPGdndudDvPFJKrQnZ2dnVY3goudnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>news:kzMZo.214$%p6.39@newsfe03.ams2...
>>>
>>>
>>> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>news:ih7bqe$ajf$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>>>>> I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
>>>> for
>>>>> a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there
>>>>>was a
>>>> big
>>>>> difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
>>>>> direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the
>>>>>designers of a
>>>>> piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
>>>>> could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
>>>> thread
>>>>> that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly
>>>>>what size
>>>>> they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was
>>>>>being funny,
>>>>> "I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?"
>>>>>the guy
>>>>> asked. "American Piss Fit", said I ...
>>>>
>>>>> Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
>>>> boss's
>>>>> office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
>>>> that
>>>>> it was a slur on what he considered to be good American
>>>>>engineering, and
>>>> had
>>>>> called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily
>>>>>offence
>>>>> can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's
>>>>>basically the
>>>>> same language ... :-)
>>>>
>>>> It's hard /not/ to interpret such a description as an intentional
>>>>insult. I
>>>> can't imagine what it actually means -- in any innocuous sense, anyway.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> There ya go then ! Anyone from the UK would see it as a quick-fire
>>>throw-away line, and would laugh at it. It's sort of intended to be
>>>'barbed', but not in a malicious way. It's a very hard to describe
>>>form of humour that is quite prevalent over here.
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>>
>> We have that kind of humor in the US too.. But only amongst friends
>>or people you know fairly well. If a stranger uses sharp humor with me
>>(some do) and It gives the feeling of you dont know me well enough to
>>be poking humor at me, and we also usually take the fact there is
>>ususaly truth in humor.. And honestly you probaly think the US
>>standards are idioic and stupid to still be using when the rest of
>>the world is using the metric system. Thats the feeling I get here
>>in Japan at least. People cant understand why the US uses the old system still.
>>
>> Anyhow.. Just my $0.02
>>
>
>Yes. Knowing the U.S. and its people much better now, as I tend to
>visit twice a year and have now for many years, I would say that was
>pretty much spot on. Although I've found that American people are much
>more friendly in general to strangers, than people over here are, I
>also find that they are much more 'reserved' in actually getting to
>know them as a friend. Here in the UK, if you are just in the same
>business as one another, you tend to automatically think in terms of
>communicating with a 'kindred spirit'. So even on a first contact with
>someone, if you appear within a few sentences to be speaking the same
>language, it becomes quite acceptable to introduce a degree of
>'chuminess' into the conversation such as calling the person 'mate' and
>such-like. Barbed humour between you is then immediately accepted, and
>is likely to get thrown back at you by the other person, and often gets
>deflected onto the company that you, or the other person works for.
>Having made the 'APF' comment to the guy, in my naivety, I was
>expecting him to just throw back a similar comment like " so what, then
>? Your British threads are better than ours, are they ? :-) "
>
>Like I say, easy to cause unintentional offence, if you are not
>familiar with the country, and it's people and their cultural
>differences, even if they appear to speak the same basic language. Many
>countries in Europe speak English as a second language. If you speak it
>to a German for instance, in general, he will not understand British
>humour. Not likely to be offended by it. Just won't understand it. A
>Frenchman, will understand it, and be offended - or at least pretend to
>be ... OTOH, a Dutchman will both understand the humour, and give back
>as good as he gets. They seem to have a very 'English' understanding of
>the English language. I don't know why that should be, but I was once
>told by a Dutch guy that I had dealings with, that it was because they
>easily received UK television over there, so tended to watch a lot of
>British made drama and comedy programmes. I wonder if this will change
>now analogue TV is almost now all gone. I bet that they don't receive
>the digital multiplexes across the water, anything like as well as they
>did the high power analongue transmissions. Any Dutch people reading
>this care to comment ?
>
>Arfa

I'm not Dutch but I do spend several weeks there every year and watch
some Dutch TV almost every day.

BBC1 and BBC2 are available on cable, but without teletext, apart from
subtitles, so many viewers are exposed to British attitudes and humour.
I imagine that that will continue after the digital switchover.

There are also a lot of UK programmes and films on their own channels.
Most keep the original soundtrack and are subtitled (not always
accurately). Documentaries such as David Attenborough's tend to have
Dutch speech when the presenter is off camera.

Dad's Army was very popular there, to my surprise as I thought it was
too British. Several other programmes have been made in Dutch versions,
but not always successfully. The Dutch version of East Enders flopped,
and their versions of Only Fools and Horses and The Kumars at No. 42
were simply dire. Their QI, HIGNFY and Who Do You Think You Are? have
turned out well.

In return for our sending them excellent programmes, they then sent us
The Generation Game and Big Brother.

Apart from having a basically different sense of humour, the Germans are
not exposed to British humour to the same extent because their foreign
programmes are almost always dubbed. I can't comment on how they
correspond to the original soundtracks as I have never watched any
British comedy on German TV, apart from the Monty Python German special
years ago.

Don't know about the French, but who cares about them anyway?
--
Peter

Ying tong iddle-i po!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Reduce power of a microwave oven?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/76e6c7ef368fc8a0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 21 2011 10:02 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/21/2011 6:02 PM Arfa Daily spake thus:

> "David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> news:4d388c93$0$24073$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
>
>> On 1/20/2011 4:44 AM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>>
>>> mike wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yes, that's what I had in mind. All you need is a switch that
>>>> can handle that much volts safely...and maybe some means to
>>>> make sure that switching a charged cap doesn't explode the
>>>> diode or the switch.
>>>>
>>>> Some months ago, I had to replace the diode in my old one.
>>>> Hooked a resistor to a couple of clip leads and hooked them to
>>>> the cap. I never did find any of the resistor pieces. May have
>>>> gotten swept up when I cleaned up the puddle I made. ;-)
>>>
>>> You exceeded the maximum voltage rating of that resistor.
>>
>> Gee, ya think?
>>
>> Another incredibly useful 1-line post from the shoot-from-the-hip
>> master ...
>
> Actually, I think that it is quite a useful comment, as in my experience in
> the electronics service business, many techs - particularly modern ones -
> have no understanding that a resistor has a maximum working voltage rating,
> and have even laughed at the very idea when I have suggested it to them,
> until I have shown them in a component catalogue. I'm willing to bet that
> prior to this exchange, there were more than a few reading what Michael
> said, and doing just that ...

Well, I have to admit that it (maximum resistor voltage ratings) doesn't
often occur to me, simply because I don't work with HV. But the person
Mr. Terrell responded to above was certainly aware of why his resistor
got blown to smithereens. Hence my annoyance.

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fender Frontman 212R amp, 2010
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d6a83c2aaabd02?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 22 2011 12:37 am
From: "N_Cook"

Exact same problem inside other speaker, the change of angle at the cone and
cylinder glue line, the other lead this time, again no overheating of VC.
Have to assume this is a generic failing with all these Fender badged G....
12 inchers (only 2Kg each seem rather light) . Will bridge all 4 of these
failure points with multistrabd stripped down hook-up wire through a needle
hole in the cone. Definitely PbF solder on the speakers at least, unless
coded in those G numbers no explicit reference to this. Amp solder not seen
yet.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha PF 1000 piano , 2002
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2fdc9f41e99e9293?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 22 2011 3:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside open
width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs against
it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that will
accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on one
side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into account.

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en