sci.electronics.repair - 16 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Magnetized tools
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f3276f33a4102318?hl=en
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== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 2:36 pm
From: D Yuniskis

Hi,

End-of-the-year sorting through tools (yeah, I'm a few
weeks late :< ).

Noticing a fair number of tools with magnetic tips, etc.
And, a few that have picked up some residual magnetism
over the years.

For the most part, this isn't a problem for me. I know
not to bring them near media, "heads", coils, etc. Often
the magnetism is a blessing (holding small screws in
place; keeping driver "tips"/bits from falling off; etc.)

I'm wondering if there are any un-obvious (obscure?)
cases where I might screw myself by using such a tool
when I *shouldn't*?

I guess these would fall into three rough categories:
- things that you can damage by introducing magnetism
(directly or indirectly -- e.g., bringing a magnet near
a guitar "pickup" while the guitar is connected to a
typical "crate" could result in an annoying "pop"/thud)
- things that you can disturb (e.g., leaving some residual
magnetism on a tape head)
- things that can surprise you
(the guitar pickup when the volume *isn't* loud enough
to damage the amplifier)
- things that can *hurt* you
(a tool being drawn to "someplace dangerous" by unexpected
magnetic attraction)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 3:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Perhaps the safest approach would be to demagnetize all your tools, then
temporarily magnetize them as needed. I was working on something just this
morning where I wished the screwdriver had been magnetized, but decided it
was too much trouble to do so.

You can buy little magnetizer/demagnetizer blocks, but I think a bulk tape
eraser makes more sense.

You might also magnetize specific tools and keep them in their own drawer
for use as needed. All the others could be periodically checked and
de-magnetized.

Yes, I'm aware I did not answer the question asked, but made an alternative
suggestion.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 3:59 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia

On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 15:36:49 -0700, D Yuniskis wrote:
>
> Noticing a fair number of tools with magnetic tips, etc.
> And, a few that have picked up some residual magnetism
> over the years.
>
> For the most part, this isn't a problem for me. I know
> not to bring them near media, "heads", coils, etc. Often
> the magnetism is a blessing (holding small screws in
> place; keeping driver "tips"/bits from falling off; etc.)

Don't need that.
For screwdrivers and hexnut drivers and that ilk, I use a dab of
bee's wax to hold the 'thing' to the tool.

For placing nuts in contorted locations, I bend over an appropriate
sized piece of solder and screw the nut onto the loop end for 1/2 to 3/4
of a turn. Then form the solder "lead" to allow you to place the nut
down by the hole while you're poking your bee's wax attached screw in on
the other side (while holding the mag-lite in your mouth and propping
up the chassis with your knee.)

Yes, Happy New Year!

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 5:49 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

For years, I've avoided using magnetized screwdrivers, and they're rarely
needed when screwdrivers fit the screw properly, but lately I've
intentionally magnetized a couple of tiny screw drivers for ease of picking
screws up individually.. size 00 phillips, for example.

Lightly magnetizing a screwdriver blade is easy with a magnet.. the blade is
laid on one side of the magnet, and the magnet is drawn slowly to the tip.
Repeating the strokes increases the strength a small amount.
There are some 2-piece magnets available that will demagnetize a screwdriver
blade in the same way. A tape head demagnetizer will also work for small
screwdrivers.

The only minor problem I've noticed is that a screw can be stuck to the tip
when I set the screwdriver down, then picking up the screwdriver to remove
another screw.
With the tiny screws that I often work with, this means a small screw can be
dropped, which can be a problem, particularly if it bounces when it drops.

A blob of tacky putty can be a good place to "park" the screws as they're
being removed.

For larger screws, I generally put them in a small zip bag if the unit isn't
going to be completed that day, but for tiny screws, I've found that it's
convenient to use clear tape to attach them to a large index card.
This method has been helpful in keeping track of which screws go where..
they can be grouped for different stages of disassembly, and notes can be
scribbled on the card.
This can be a great benefit to make sure that short and long screws go back
where they belong.

During the final assembly, the tiny screws can be picked out of the clear
tape "blisters" as needed.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"D Yuniskis" <not.going.to.be@seen.com> wrote in message
news:ih2fmg$kd$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> Hi,
>
> End-of-the-year sorting through tools (yeah, I'm a few
> weeks late :< ).
>
> Noticing a fair number of tools with magnetic tips, etc.
> And, a few that have picked up some residual magnetism
> over the years.
>
> For the most part, this isn't a problem for me. I know
> not to bring them near media, "heads", coils, etc. Often
> the magnetism is a blessing (holding small screws in
> place; keeping driver "tips"/bits from falling off; etc.)
>
> I'm wondering if there are any un-obvious (obscure?)
> cases where I might screw myself by using such a tool
> when I *shouldn't*?
>
> I guess these would fall into three rough categories:
> - things that you can damage by introducing magnetism
> (directly or indirectly -- e.g., bringing a magnet near
> a guitar "pickup" while the guitar is connected to a
> typical "crate" could result in an annoying "pop"/thud)
> - things that you can disturb (e.g., leaving some residual
> magnetism on a tape head)
> - things that can surprise you
> (the guitar pickup when the volume *isn't* loud enough
> to damage the amplifier)
> - things that can *hurt* you
> (a tool being drawn to "someplace dangerous" by unexpected
> magnetic attraction)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple Question about Thermal Cutoff (tco) & Fuses
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9522848ef646160c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 3:43 pm
From: j barnes

I have a samovar (an electric tea kettle) with a bad thermal cut off fuse that runs immediately after the 120v input plug The TCO is rated at 4amp and 152C. I cannot locate this fuse anywhere but here:

http://www.gift-centre.com/store/product/7450/Samovar-Fuse-SSFCHW-E4A00/

$30 seems awfully steep for this part.

Would it be safe for me to replace the 4AMP TCO with a 10amp 152C and simply add a 4amp fuse immediately before or after the TCO? Intuitively this seems like it would work, more than 152C the TCO burns, more than 4amps the other fuse blows.

Thanks!

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 6:05 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"j barnes"

> Would it be safe for me to replace the 4AMP TCO with a 10amp 152C

** Yes.

The amp rating is not important long as it is more than 4.

.... Phil

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 8:00 pm
From: Fred McKenzie

In article
<65201db0-66d6-46b9-be6d-67de7495aed7@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com
>,
j barnes <slywinking@gmail.com> wrote:

> Would it be safe for me to replace the 4AMP TCO with a 10amp 152C and simply
> add a 4amp fuse immediately before or after the TCO?

JB-

I can't imagine the tea kettle cost much over $30, so it is not cost
effective to buy the exact part. The price appears to be calculated to
encourage you to buy a new samovar instead of repairing yours.

From where did you obtain the specifications for the original part?
What are the samovar's electrical ratings for voltage and power? They
may be on the bottom or next to the electrical wire.

Several coffee makers I checked all use power in the 600 to 800 watt
range. If the samovar operates close to 480 watts (4 Amperes at 120
Volts), you would not want the fuse to blow at 4 Amperes. I suspect the
function of the original part was to protect against a fire when the pot
was operated after all the liquid had boiled away. So the 4 Ampere
rating is a maximum operating current, not necessarily the current at
which it blows.

How were you going to install the replacement? Soldering is not a good
idea. Solder could melt under normal operating conditions, and
soldering might damage the TCO if you aren't careful. Crimping is the
better approach, but it is difficult to get a good crimp with solid
wires. Some TCOs come with a "crimping ferrule". It is a small metal
tube (brass?) that you insert two wires into and crimp them together.

Fred

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 9:43 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Fred McKenzie"

>
> Several coffee makers I checked all use power in the 600 to 800 watt
> range. If the samovar operates close to 480 watts (4 Amperes at 120
> Volts), you would not want the fuse to blow at 4 Amperes. I suspect the
> function of the original part was to protect against a fire when the pot
> was operated after all the liquid had boiled away. So the 4 Ampere
> rating is a maximum operating current, not necessarily the current at
> which it blows.

** The 4 amp rating is mostly to do with the tripping temperature - up to
4 amps of current can pass without changing the tripping temp by more than a
few degrees due to self heating.

IOW, at 4 amps there is only a few degrees C rise in the temp of the
device.

Similarly for the 10 amp types.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: replacing smps component
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/29494d0ac0be614b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 5:19 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

<frank@notvalid.it> wrote in message
news:4d341391$0$6835$5fc30a8@news.tiscali.it...
> Hi all,
>
> I'm repairing an LCD computer monitor. The smps is faulty, found a couple
> of bulging capacitors on the low voltage side, the AC fuse blown, a blown
> 22V
> 1W zener on the primary side, the main 100 uF 400V capacitor after the
> rectifier on AC side open circuit, and an exploded FSDM0565R integrated
> controller and driver (luckily the parts exploded away were readable).
> Now, where I could find the FSDM part?
> In your opinion is this worth trying to repair or it might have blown
> parts
> like transformers (not something you can find on the market I mean)?
> Thanks in advance and best regards
>
> Frank IZ8DWF

Long (and often bitter !) experience of repairing switchers for a living,
would cause me to say that with that sort of level of primary side failure,
successful - and reliable - repair, is unlikely to be practical.

Sorry :-(

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung Monitor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b8e64ece9d65ce8d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 6:06 pm
From: "Shaun"

"William Brown" <wbrown@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:35l4j6hl5rpg9iplusdiog932phar6imp2@4ax.com...
>
>
> I have a LS19MEDSBQ/XSA
>
> How do you remove the back..
>
> Thanks
>

Just hit it with a BIG hammer; it will come apart!

:^))

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Walkman Speakers
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6948823fdf40b407?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 6:32 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com

I found them by searching <postable sepakers "no battery">!!

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

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TOPIC: OT: scope recommendations?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/945010a432810e85?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 6:57 pm
From: josephkk

On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 05:35:41 -0800, Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net>
wrote:

>In article <4d2acac2.751936@News.Individual.NET>,
> bok118@zonnet.nl (Gerard Bok) wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 09 Jan 2011 13:55:13 -0800, Smitty Two
>> <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> >In article <igcvde$muj$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
>> > mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >> Not clear how the strobe improves on the flash of light you get from the
>> >> shutter in the projector???
>> >
>> >One problem with using off-the-shelf projectors, as he has been doing
>> >for many years, is duty cycle.
>>
>> From what I read here, I would suggest your friend to put the
>> frame scan setup aside for a while and investigate the use of a
>> linescanner.
>
>What's a linescanner?
>
>> That will allow him to ditch the jumpy filmtransport altogether
>> and scan the film right upto the maximum (continuous) speed his
>> electronics can handle and convert.
>> (That's the very same way some old microfilmscanners operated :-)

Basically it captures one line at a time. Step and repeat for umpty
hundred (or few thousand) lines to get a frame. The same counters that
align the framing are used here as well. Continuous lamp focused as a
line (or special and expensive "line lamp").

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sanyo TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4c8f5b72f9e8d7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 8:30 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Michael Gross wrote:
>
> Vince Schmitt wrote:
> > Hi!
> > What can you do with a Sanyo MDL HDTV? The left side light is out and
> > I replaced the Master backlight converter and it still doesn't light up,
> > I can shake the set a little and it will come on momentarily. It acts
> > like the problem is inside the screen. Any ideas?
> > Thank you.
> > Vince
> >
> >
> >
>
> I have an idea so here it goes:
>
> When Michael Terrell was at Wal-Mart, he saw a portable HDTV with a
> rechargeable battery and so he bought it. When he got it home, he
> unpacked it and hooked it up. 10 minutes after he had it set up, he was
> bored with it and was in sticker shock over the price he paid for it.
> Michael Terrell is disabled so he can buy things but he has a hard time
> going up to the customer service desk. So he has his good friend Phil
> Allison return the portable TV to the Wal-Mart. Except that Phil Allison
> has returned many items to Wal-Mart for Michael. See, Phil knows that
> Michael will see an electronic item that he really doesn't need and
> can't afford but wants it until he actually gets it then he realize he
> doesn't need it and he wants the money he wasted back. Phil has returned
> many electronics items for Michael over the years because Michael has
> been doing this for years. So Phil asked Michael, "Do you have the
> receipt?" and Michael gives Phil the receipt for the portable TV
> thinking that Phil is going to take it back and get Michael his money back.
>
> Little did Michael know that Phil had a hammer and that Phil was sick of
> returning Michael's impulse buys so Phil put the HDTV on his desk and
> Phil opened the drawer and took out his hammer and first Phil smashed
> the screen of the portable TV and then Phil hit the bezel a few times
> and broke that off and then Phil hit the TV and it fell off his desk.
>
> so there is my advice.

Yawn. Phil is in Australia. It's also where you should be. They
don't require you to have brains in the outback.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

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TOPIC: design
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d2a1b8db10e5c779?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 17 2011 9:29 pm
From: Sujatha Srinivasan

http://123maza.com/75/arts219/

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TOPIC: Standard Abroad Study Programs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/66121f6a95cf6cd5?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 12:22 am
From: mukinda

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: ReverbaMate, Sole Mate , spring reverb
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a2ecc5b273e20721?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 12:59 am
From: "N_Cook"

Got back to the over-overdrive problem. Send side of the springline easily
driven into clipping , I will try reducing the gain of the send side amp and
increase the gain of the receive side and add some mechanical/acoustic
decoupling to the tank

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