sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* TVs compatible, from one continent to the next?? - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38d677af192b8653?hl=en
* 12 volt automotive sealed beam lamps in series - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fbedfb20fe2856fd?hl=en
* Microwave timer/clock 4 digit 7-segmnt display is out. Timer works fine. - 6
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9d37ccd9c82199e?hl=en
* OT--Actual elecytronics repair question - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c7563aead5e20a6?hl=en
* test <-- Contact!!! - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eec33647a4783c79?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TVs compatible, from one continent to the next??
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38d677af192b8653?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 7:02 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 1/11/2011 7:27 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> So, you used 2" until the other formats were availible? Umatic was
> second generation video for use in classrooms, dubbed from the broadcast
> grade masters. Long beofre VHS or any beta crap was availible. I used
> 1" Sony at WACX in orlando for the master edit suit. OTOH, I had 13
> Sony U-Matics at the transmitter site for the LaCarte Video automation
> system. WACX had better video quality than most of the other stations
> in the market. The worst used Beta and it was obvious.

Back in 1970 I took course "TV production" in my Senior year.
We had a nice 1" tape deck and a mixer/fader console along with
two dolly mounted cameras.

By 1971, the students had trahed enough of the equipment, so
that they were using a 1/2" Sone deck and hand helds on tripods.

Sigh, what a waste of studio grade gear.

Jeff

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:14 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Jan 11, 3:15 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:
> In article <pan.2011.01.11.19.13...@lmao.lol.lol>,
>    Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > How did this devolve into a PAL/NTSC pissing match? From what little TV I
> > watch in the evening, HD channels on TWC, I think the color rendering is
> > perfect. And NTSC DVD video is the same. So what's the problem here? A
> > lack of real things to argue about?
>
> Don't think you've been following things. DVDs as such don't have
either
> an NTSC or PAL footprint unless the originating material had.
>
> --
> *Give me ambiguity or give me something else.
>
>     Dave Plowman        d...@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                   To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Oh they most certainly do as they are either 525/60 or 625/50. While
your computer will have no trouble with this, CRT sets definitely did
(but could usually be adjusted). There must be some pretty dumb people
all over the world buying standards converters at $200K a pop to
convert 25 Hz frame rate to 30 Hz and vice cersa.

G²

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:25 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Jan 11, 7:02 pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
> On 1/11/2011 7:27 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> >     So, you used 2" until the other formats were availible?  Umatic was
> > second generation video for use in classrooms, dubbed from the broadcast
> > grade masters. Long beofre VHS or any beta crap was availible.  I used
> > 1" Sony at WACX in orlando for the master edit suit.  OTOH, I had 13
> > Sony U-Matics at the transmitter site for the LaCarte Video automation
> > system.  WACX had better video quality than most of the other stations
> > in the market.  The worst used Beta and it was obvious.
>
> Back in 1970 I took course "TV production" in my Senior year.
> We had a nice 1" tape deck and a mixer/fader console along with
> two dolly mounted cameras.
>
> By 1971, the students had trahed enough of the equipment, so
> that they were using a 1/2" Sone deck and hand helds on tripods.
>
> Sigh, what a waste of studio grade gear.
>
> Jeff

The 1" decks you refer to are not the 1" machines used in broadcast.
The broadcast flavor was the late '70s SMPTE C format built by Ampex,
Sony, RCA, Hitachi and NEC but mostly Ampex and Sony. Did I miss any?

G²

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:33 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Jan 11, 6:18 pm, "Brenda Ann" <newsgro...@fullspectrumradio.org>
wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in messagenews:51942912a5dave@davenoise.co.uk...
>
> In article <pan.2011.01.12.00.00...@lmao.lol.lol>,
>    Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > I've no experience in PAL or SECAM whatsoever. But to just unilaterally
> > claim the NTSC is inferior I just don't see it. So there must be more to
> > the story. Maybe politics in some wild manner? That tends to piss people
> > off.
>
> Don't think anyone with sense claims any of these are universally
> superior. Each had merits and de-merits.
>
> Think it goes something like this:-
>
> NTSC gives the best pictures in the studio.
> SECAM records best.
> PAL transmits best.
>
> --
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------­-----
>
> I have read in broadcast periodicals that PAL needed to be
converted to NTSC
> in the studio in order to use video effects switching, etc., then
converted
> back for transmission. Since the two are virtually the same base
signals,
> this confused me.

I think you got your signals a little crossed. SECAM with its FM
carriers for chroma cannot be faded/dissolved. SECAM signals get
converted to PAL for switchers and back to SECAM for transmission. IOW
SECAM is not a production format.

With saturation being the amplitude of the subcarrier, both NTSC and
PAL can be easily faded/diissolved. The chroma will fade to B/W as the
luma fades to black on the composite signal.

BTW who cares? I haven't seen a composite switcher in 15 years.

G²

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 10:04 pm
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> Don't think anyone with sense claims any of these are universally
> superior. Each had merits and de-merits.
>
> Think it goes something like this:-
>
> NTSC gives the best pictures in the studio.
> SECAM records best.
> PAL transmits best.

The reality is much more mundane. NTSC was perfectly fine. It gained a bad
reputation becuase of problems in distribution, which were managment issues,
not technical ones.

The BBC, adopted the original NTSC specification calling it PAL. It included
the alternating line phase (hence the name), that was found to be unecessary
in the US.

For what may have been a good technical reason when the 405 line system was
developed in the 1930's, by the time the new system was designed around 1960,
there was absolutely no technical reason that the US system, as implemented,
would not work in the UK. (50 fields/25 frames versus 60 and 30).

The political reason was to keep the UK electronics companies in work, to
avoid cheap sets made in much larger quantities in the US. At that time,
there was no electronics industry to speak of in Japan, so it was not a threat.

The PAL is better hype was exactly that, it was to make you think that
technically it was different than NTSC and ripping off the british public was
a good thing.

SECAM on the other hand really was designed to make TV Sets incompatible
with NTSC/PAL and more expensive.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 11:16 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeffrey Angus wrote:
>
> On 1/11/2011 7:27 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> > So, you used 2" until the other formats were availible? Umatic was
> > second generation video for use in classrooms, dubbed from the broadcast
> > grade masters. Long beofre VHS or any beta crap was availible. I used
> > 1" Sony at WACX in orlando for the master edit suit. OTOH, I had 13
> > Sony U-Matics at the transmitter site for the LaCarte Video automation
> > system. WACX had better video quality than most of the other stations
> > in the market. The worst used Beta and it was obvious.
>
> Back in 1970 I took course "TV production" in my Senior year.
> We had a nice 1" tape deck and a mixer/fader console along with
> two dolly mounted cameras.
>
> By 1971, the students had trahed enough of the equipment, so
> that they were using a 1/2" Sone deck and hand helds on tripods.
>
> Sigh, what a waste of studio grade gear.

No kidding. One of the local high schools gets new equipment about
every other year when they need to learn on beat up old junk.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 12 volt automotive sealed beam lamps in series
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fbedfb20fe2856fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 7:21 pm
From: Spehro Pefhany

On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 22:01:33 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

>On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 00:54:59 -0500, the renowned "Michael A. Terrell"
><mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 17:22:27 -0500, the renowned "Michael A. Terrell"
>>> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>> >klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> I have a 24 volt military truck that I use for snow plowing. In the
>>> >> past I've had trouble finding 6000 series 24 volt sealed beam lamps
>>> >> for the plow frame.. And when I did I have found them to be very
>>> >> expensive. So I came up with a circuit using a DPDT switch in which
>>> >> both the high and low circuit lamp filaments are wired in series when
>>> >> power is applied. I was very careful to initially select two lamps
>>> >> that drew exactly the same current when tested on my bench power
>>> >> supply. The arrangement has worked flawlessly for the past few years.
>>> >> The other night I had occaision to look at the lights from outside the
>>> >> truck while it was running. Charging voltage on a 24 volt system can
>>> >> run as high as 28 volts on a typical 24 volt system. Although I didn't
>>> >> try to measure the voltage accross each lamp, I noticed that one lamp
>>> >> is slightly brighter than the other on the low circuit. I'm assuming
>>> >> that filament is getting weaker and thinner and will likely fail
>>> >> shortly. And of course when that happens I'll lose the low circuit. I
>>> >> can rematch two more lamps but before I do the thought occurred to me
>>> >> if there was any practical easy way the equalise the voltage accross
>>> >> both lamps in order to compensate for any minute differences in
>>> >> filament resistance. I think that the total current, (two lamps in
>>> >> series) is about 5.0 amps. Thanks for any suggestions. Lenny
>>> >
>>> >
>>> > How about a 24 V to 12 V converter to power the headlamps? National
>>> >Semiconductor makes the 'Simple Switcher' series of regulators.
>>>
>>> You could also just buy a DC-DC converter.. 24:12 at 200W will run
>>> around $170, in stock at Mouser.
>>>
>>> http://www.meanwell.com/search/SD-200/SD-200-spec.pdf
>>>
>>> Looks expensive compared to the raw components, perhaps, but I'll bet
>>> most parts for your truck cost more than that.
>>>
>>> There's enough adjustment range that you can set it to 13.8VDC or
>>> whatever you think should be nominal. It will also run the lights at
>>> full brightness with the motor off (at the expense of some battery
>>> life, of course).
>>
>>
>> Probably, but it's 14 years old and I've not spent more than $100 in
>>repairs in the 3 years I've owned it. :)
>
>Okay, then, if $170 is too much, how about $7.56 including shipping?
>
>http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36230
>
>They also have 15A/20A for 14.89/16.42 including shipping.

Or this one for $11.72 shipped which is claimed to be 20A

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dc-24-input-to-12v-output-power-transformer-converter-inverter.html

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:32 pm
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"Spehro Pefhany" <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message
news:1h7qi61k9dkmftbne44lfbhhv99su6kh9n@4ax.com...

> Or this one for $11.72 shipped which is claimed to be 20A
>
> http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dc-24-input-to-12v-output-power-transformer-converter-inverter.html

I'd go for that in a heart beat. you could set it in series with the
fuse feeding the head lights.

I'd get two; one as a spare since you have NO idea of its practical
service life in a road truck and you'd like to have a spare along.

Later, if #1 proves flawless, use #2 for the tail lights and swap them
out too when called for...

Ange

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 11:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Spehro Pefhany wrote:
>
> On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 00:54:59 -0500, the renowned "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >Spehro Pefhany wrote:
> >>
> >> On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 17:22:27 -0500, the renowned "Michael A. Terrell"
> >> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I have a 24 volt military truck that I use for snow plowing. In the
> >> >> past I've had trouble finding 6000 series 24 volt sealed beam lamps
> >> >> for the plow frame.. And when I did I have found them to be very
> >> >> expensive. So I came up with a circuit using a DPDT switch in which
> >> >> both the high and low circuit lamp filaments are wired in series when
> >> >> power is applied. I was very careful to initially select two lamps
> >> >> that drew exactly the same current when tested on my bench power
> >> >> supply. The arrangement has worked flawlessly for the past few years.
> >> >> The other night I had occaision to look at the lights from outside the
> >> >> truck while it was running. Charging voltage on a 24 volt system can
> >> >> run as high as 28 volts on a typical 24 volt system. Although I didn't
> >> >> try to measure the voltage accross each lamp, I noticed that one lamp
> >> >> is slightly brighter than the other on the low circuit. I'm assuming
> >> >> that filament is getting weaker and thinner and will likely fail
> >> >> shortly. And of course when that happens I'll lose the low circuit. I
> >> >> can rematch two more lamps but before I do the thought occurred to me
> >> >> if there was any practical easy way the equalise the voltage accross
> >> >> both lamps in order to compensate for any minute differences in
> >> >> filament resistance. I think that the total current, (two lamps in
> >> >> series) is about 5.0 amps. Thanks for any suggestions. Lenny
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > How about a 24 V to 12 V converter to power the headlamps? National
> >> >Semiconductor makes the 'Simple Switcher' series of regulators.
> >>
> >> You could also just buy a DC-DC converter.. 24:12 at 200W will run
> >> around $170, in stock at Mouser.
> >>
> >> http://www.meanwell.com/search/SD-200/SD-200-spec.pdf
> >>
> >> Looks expensive compared to the raw components, perhaps, but I'll bet
> >> most parts for your truck cost more than that.
> >>
> >> There's enough adjustment range that you can set it to 13.8VDC or
> >> whatever you think should be nominal. It will also run the lights at
> >> full brightness with the motor off (at the expense of some battery
> >> life, of course).
> >
> >
> > Probably, but it's 14 years old and I've not spent more than $100 in
> >repairs in the 3 years I've owned it. :)
>
> Okay, then, if $170 is too much, how about $7.56 including shipping?
>
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.36230
>
> They also have 15A/20A for 14.89/16.42 including shipping.

That would be good for people wanting a car radio on a 24 v golf
cart. :)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Microwave timer/clock 4 digit 7-segmnt display is out. Timer works fine.

http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9d37ccd9c82199e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 10 2011 11:56 am
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:j61ji6h03itt4sergf1aj4g1poaan05ga8@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 00:10:53 -0500, "Angelo Campanella"
> <a.campanella@att.net> wrote:
>
>>I suspect it to be a power supply problem somewhere in the + busses, or
>>possibly a common ground not making ground. But I have no clue as to where
>>to start probing. Each digit is red gas discharge unit, unpluggable from
>>their socket... really ancient... 1976 vintage.
>
> Sounds more like a Nixie tube. Red would mean LED. 1976 vintage
> would probably be red LED. How about making life easier and disclose
> the Amana (Radar Range) model number?

Model: RR6W, P72110-4M
S/N: H56559799
1600 Watts

(I recently measured it as 1,480 watts when running empty.)

Mfg Date May, 1976.

>
> The bad news is that if all the digits are equally bad and they're
> individually unpluggable, then it's probably something in the
> electronics. Stuck digits and working timer sounds like a display
> multiplexer/driver circuit.

I need a schematic, or a generic schematic to hunt down the bad driver.

> It would probably cost less to replace
> the oven than repair it, but such an old Amana is a collectors item
> and is probably worth restoring. I'm rather surprised that the
> magnetron is still functional.

I checked it via boiling time for a cup of cold watrer... it's close to the
rated 7oo watts.

ange

>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 10 2011 11:53 am
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:igbtmv$6vq$1@news.eternal-september.org...

> I assume it has a dedicated LED driver, that sort of age probably internal
> metalisation drift inside the chip or die carrier.

True... but which component? "Driver" comes to mind.
But I have no schematic to identfy components. The model numer is

Model: RR6W, P72110-4M
S/N: H56559799
1600 Watts

(I recently measured it as 1,480 watts when running empty.)

Mfg Date May, 1976.

The cook space chamber is over a cubic foot in volume (14"x14"+x9"+).

> Will it go to a museum?,

It could... for a price.

> I would not have said uwave ovens were around in 1976

They came out that year or the year before. This unit is:
Ange

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 10 2011 11:57 am
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:igc7sr$cku$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Nixie tubes were relatively expensive. I don't think any microwave oven
> used
> them. Certainly not in 1976, when LEDs were common and cheap.
>
> If all the lower-left segments are on continuously, I'd suspect a problem
> in
> the logic driving them.

True... soemthing common to all 4 digits.

Ange

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 9:47 am
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:igh3nm$i55$1@news.eternal-september.org...

> So what are some of the numbers on the chips inside and any numbers seen
> on
> the sides of the display/s ?

I managed to pry out 7-segment chip digit #2 chip for review.

It's a 19mm x 10mm 14 pin (3 pins not present) HP5082-7730 609 C.

The face is a transparent matte plastic surface that seem to have red solid
state material for each of the 7 segments over the interior material.

The back side, between pin rows, is pink transparent potting that covers a
PC board holding the 14 (really net 11) pins.

Ange

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 10 2011 8:41 pm
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:d9jni61b48oscri3vr445hfsorrvnvfhva@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 14:17:07 -0500, "Angelo Campanella"
> <a.campanella@att.net> wrote:
>> I checked to output by measuring the time to boil an 8oz cup of water.
>>The tag say 700 watts of cooking power, and my timing result was
>>approximately that... close enough to say the magnetron was still OK.
> Impressive.
>>> What color is the display?
>> Red. LED seems plausible.
> Red is LED. Orange could be vacuum fluorescent or LED. I'll be on
> LED.

OK, it's gotta be LED.

> Could I trouble you for the Amana model number so we don't have to
> continue guessing.

Set recently but again, but here again:

Model: RR6W, P72110-4M
S/N: H56559799
1600 Watts
(I recently measured it as 1,480 watts when running empty.)
Mfg Date May, 1976.

>>I know you guys recommend that I replace it,
> Please re-read the previous comments. Nobody suggested you replace
> it. This isn't a newsgroup dedicated to appliance salesmen. If it
> cooks well, it should be possible to fix it.
>>but I don't see anything I like.
> What's the problem? Too many features? Short lifetimes? Bizarre
> warranties? Lousy construction? All of these?

1- War stories of new microwaves, mostly of Pacific Rim manufacture,
failing after a few years of service.

My son bought me a new one a Christmas go, but it turned out to be
smaller and of Pacific Rim manufacture, so I gave it back to him to give to
somebody else. This Amana is still the war horse.

2- I like this size (over a cubic foot). I think I'd like another Amana... I
think Raytheon bought them out some years ago. The name is still around. I
looked up their web age, and several models are available . A cubic foot+
unit cost about $150 last year... It's in he back of my mind.

> I think you might find it useful to learn how to cook.

I'm looking for a human replacement, but so far no luck.

To keep my weight down, I eat a lot of salads; they require no cooking.
I cook soups from scratch and spaghetti & pastas with the u-wave. I eat very
little meat, mainly chicken, since red meats are heavy and affect my blood
pressure. I eat most anything on special occasions only.

> Think of it as
> chemistry and not an art form. Microwave cooking is ok for many
> things, but there's plenty of dishes that are best cooked over a
> flame, on a grill, or in a real oven. Then there's barbecue.

Cooking, especially frying, sends all kinds of odors into the house
(3-bedroom ranch, closed tight in the winter) that odiferate for hours
later... I eat meats mainly when eating out with friends.

The other son gave me a Forman burger grille. I only used it once. It
really smelled up the house . The range hood was not really of much help.
The Forman grille is best used outdoors.

Back to my Amana RR6W, my only hope to get display functioning back is
to identify the failed component (driver chip?), or replace the entire panel
module... both of which seem highly unlikely. This news group is about the
place I can find to even have an intelligent discussion on the matter. What
is needed is an old-timer that remembers the 7 digit LED display technology
of the '70's and also know the Amana microwave oven use of them.

Getting that circuit board out in the clear to work on it seems to be
nigh impossible. It is in place behind and parallel to the numbers panel.
But its back side is shielded over 2/3 its area with the power supply and
its heat sink. Numbers are on the top end. The bottom end is not in a
connector slot, but rather it's stationary with power supply bus wires and
switching relay control wires soldered in place.

Ange

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:21 pm
From: "Angelo Campanella"

"Spehro Pefhany" <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message news:jm3qi65p1idgetb0ttd7l79uk4fo7nhb82@4ax.com...
>>That's just a regular old 0.3" seven-segment common-anode LED display,
>>like the old Monsanto MANxxx displays.
>>
>>http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets2/31/319472_1.pdf

All well and good. But I need a typical driver circuit diagram to probe voltages. It could be something as simple as a dropping resistor that's opened up, or a local filter capacitor that is shorted... I need a pin voltage map to find which voltage is missing.

>>We've got an antique Amana Radarrange with similar red LED displays.
>>
>>Here's a more modern equivalent that is pin-compatible:
>>http://www.kingbrightusa.com/images/catalog/SPEC/SA03-11EWA.pdf
>>(but more than 10x as bright at the same current)

The brightness is plenty good for kitchens,

> (well, pin compatible on the segments, but it has a right-hand decimal
> point rather than the rare left-hand on the microwave oven, so not
> really 100% compatible...)

The decimal point is not used for microwave heating.

Ange

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT--Actual elecytronics repair question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c7563aead5e20a6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 8:29 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 19:31:52 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Yaesu VX-5R tri-band hand held. Momentary contact power on/off button.

I have the same radio. Mine is the somewhat later v1.1.

>Recently I have to push several
>times on this rubber on/off button to get the radio to come on.

Yep. I had the same problem about a year ago. When I opened the
radio, I found wet and greasy goo around most of the keypad buttons.
My guess is a mixture to condensed bad breath and exuded rubber
plasticizer molded into the rubber. I cleaned up the mess with
alcohol and it's been fine ever since.

>But it
>always takes just one touch to turn it off.

Debounce circuit? I do have to hold the on/off a bit longer to turn
it on than to turn it off. My guess is about a full second to turn it
on, and just a tap to turn it off.

>And the radio works fine
>otherwise including all the other buttons. Just have to play around
>pressing the button maybe three/four/five times. Sometimes it powers on
>when pressed once! But always shuts off with just one easy push.
>This indicates to me that it's not a problem with button contact but
>rather a microprocessor problem.

Good logic, but without knowing the exact failure mechanism, it might
be problematic. If this is a deteriorating situation, where it worked
normally in the distant past, I would tend to suspect that something
has deteriorated rather than failed.

If not, there's the possibility of firmware problems, which a total
reset and reload from the programming software might fix. I had some
problems with VX-5 Commander:
<http://www.kc8unj.com>
and ended up buying the official Yaesu software (by RT Systems)
<http://www.rtsystemsinc.com>

>Discuss.

Methinks a frizbee is cheaper than throwing a discus around.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: test <-- Contact!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eec33647a4783c79?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 11 2011 9:45 pm
From: Man-wai Chang

On 12/01/2011 02:00, Angelo Campanella wrote:
> test

Contact!!!

--
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不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
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