sci.electronics.repair - 17 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: possible problem with Sony flat-face WEGA
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8fc4ce0a3ea9ba13?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 12:22 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Wait until it's a problem that doesn't go away after 2 seconds.

In other words, wait until an "intermittent" becomes permanent.

Definitely common sense -- but I'd rather make an end run around the
problem.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Laptop not charging.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f52116e8141f1a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 1:06 pm
From: T i m

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 19:30:28 +0000, Baron
<baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

>T i m Inscribed thus:
>
>> Yesterday, thinking it /could/ be a socket and where the tiny inner /
>> 3rd pin connects (thinking it might be a 'sense' wire and a socket was
>> cheap etc) I changed it for him but again, no improvement.
>
>That third wire the centre pin, is a one wire data interface !

Ah.

> The idea
>is to prevent you from using a charger that is/was not supplied by the
>manufacturer.

So this is how it 'knows' it's a 65W or 90W charger and that a genuine
one is present etc?

> Its quite possible that since the laptop works happily
>from the charger, that the communications inside the laptop charging
>circuits has been damaged.

I guess anything is possible with that level of 'intelligence. ;-(
> The charger board and the mainboard come as
>a pair. A salvaged charger board will not work with a different
>mainboard.

Great (not). ;-(
>
>HTH

It has (thanks), in so far as we needn't waste any money on just a
charger board.

So, unless we can pick up a working system / charger board pair we
have a mains only laptop. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 2:54 pm
From: bz

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in news:3jv7k654r4j25nunqb0dgnfsurhqkev45i@
4ax.com:

> Hi all,
>
> I have asked elsewhere but I think this may be more an electronics
> than computer question as such so:
>
> A couple of years ago daughter b/f bought a Dell Inspiron 1545 laptop
> and it has been running ok till just recently when his Mum caught the
> power lead somehow.
>
> From then on it still runs ok from the power adaptor / PSU but it
> doesn't seem to want to charge the battery. What could be part of the
> same issue is it now flashes the front power indicator with what looks
> like 4 fast amber flashes and one longer white.
>
> Going into the BIOS tells us that it thinks the battery is there and
> 'healthy' but is not charging and at 0%.
>
> We tried another battery and psu from a different 1545 (that had a
> broken DC socket) but that didn't change anything.
>
> Yesterday, thinking it /could/ be a socket and where the tiny inner /
> 3rd pin connects (thinking it might be a 'sense' wire and a socket was
> cheap etc) I changed it for him but again, no improvement.
>
> I think it still runs from the battery but of course it's now flat
> (coincidentally a mate is considering getting a Dell 1545 so we might
> be able to do some tests <g>).
>
> So, is there anything else we could do to try to work out what's going
> on here please? I still have some test gear from my 'daze' as a
> support tech (DMMs, scope, fc, bench PSU etc).
>
> Cheers, T i m

The laptop 'talks' to the power supply over the central lead (there is a
small computer IN the supply or a resistor that tells the computer the
wattage of the supply).
If that center lead is broken, the computer can run from the supply but
will not allow the battery to charge.

The flashing power indicator usually indicates a failing or failed battery
pack.

I have fixed many 'bad' supplies by cutting the 'broken' spot out of the
cord.
It is usually where the cord gets the most flexing.

finding it, cutting and splicing the cord to fix it can be challenging.

I usually cut a few inches from the power plug and check with an ohm meter.
If I was lucky, that is the end and some work with a razor knife, soldering
iron and hot glue and you are back working.
If it is at the power brick end, you will probably have to crack the brick
open with a screwdriver and solder the cord into the brick.

Sometimes, I end up with repairs at both ends and a cord that is much
shorter, in between.

Hint for all laptop supply users:
NEVER NEVER NEVER wrap the cord tightly around the supply, bending it
sharply near where it exits the supply.
Coil it loosely and let it look messy.

NEVER NEVE NEVER put a aharp bend in the cord near the plug nor near the
brick.

>
>
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ce6c11f1c7a190bf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 2:19 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jan 30, 8:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.

Ask your home insurance agent. It's unlikely that the
prospect of homeowner repair of fire-safety items is
going to be highly regarded. Also ask if the damage
to your surge suppressor is covered by your insurance.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 6:21 pm
From: mm

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 11:07:53 -0600, bud-- <remove.budnews@isp.com>
wrote:

>mm wrote:
>> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>>
>> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
>It is an engineered device with internal protection matched to the MOVs.
>I would never repair one.
>
>>
>>
>> I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. When one of
>> them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>
>Surge hits to a MOV deteriorate it. With high ratings a suppressor will
>last a very long time. The worst case surge on a service power line to
>your house that has any reasonable chance of occurring is 10,000A.
>Suppressors with much higher ratings are readily available.
>
>For a house, the IEEE recommends ratings of 20,000 to 70,000A _per
>wire_. For high lightning areas the recommendation is 40,000 to 120,000A
>_per wire_.
>
>>
>> I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
>> those units that might have them.
>>
>> Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
>> first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>>
>>
>> I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
>> repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>
>Make sure your fire insurance covers the suppressor you engineered.
>
>>
>>
>> Items for sale, if interested:
>> I can install it myself. I'm considering, in ascending price order:
>> http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/dp/B003NVLWN2/ref=pd_luc_sbs_00_01_t_lh
>
>This has minimal information and no ratings. Didn't look at the two below.

Yes, the Amazon ads seem to have less info than one would want on
something like this.

There are specs somewhere, adn I'll find them and compare with what
you've said.

I've been here 28 years and once I found smoke coming out of the
burglar alarm keypad/controller unit (yes, both) by the front door,
which might have been caused by lightning, although I didn't remember
any. Still the amount of vulerable equipment keeps growning and
growing.

Thanks, for this thread and the previous one, and thanks everybody.

>
>> http://www.amazon.com/INTERMATIC-IG3240RC3-PANEL-SURGE-ARRESTOR/dp/B003A3MUJI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_00_02_t_lh
>> http://www.smarthome.com/4860/Leviton-51120-1-Whole-House-Surge-Suppressor-Surge-Protector/p.aspx
>>
>>
>> and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)
>> http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI
>
>Also has minimal information and no ratings. If it only protects one
>wire don't get it - get one made for a service protecting both wires. I
>do like SquareD as a brand.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: surges slowly destroying
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97cd7b53147e2809?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 3:39 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"bud--"
>
> Surges damage cell phones? I would ignore anything this source says.

** Nor would I.

Just a few days ago I took the opportunity to break open a Nokia cell phone
charger - the only thing that MIGHT be damaged by voltage spikes on the AC
supply.

The incoming AC connects first to a 10 ohm fusible resistor, then a 4 x
1N4007 diode bridge then a 4.7uf 400V filter electro. Very simple and very
robust.

Any surge on the AC that killed the Nokia would take out all the CFLs and
many other things too.

.... Phil

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 6:33 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 10:37:59 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

>Question at ====> line:
>
>http://www.squidoo.com/small-led-light-surge-protector
>
>Small LED Light As Indicator In A Surge Protector

Cute. Too bad the article doesn't say what the LED actually does.
Offhand, I would say that the cute form factor of the electrical
octopus is the major selling point.

>However, the most beneficial advancement of late is that small LED
>bulbs are now utilized as indicator lights in the device that protects
>equipment from power surges, the surge protector.

Really? Surge protectors work by absorbing energy (Joules) that would
normally do some damage if that energy arrived at the protected
electronics. A good MOV protector will absorb about 1000 Joules. An
LED can hardly absorb perhaps 1 Joule. If you decode the muddled
intent of the article, the LED light probably just lights when there
has been a surge.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor>

>Surges, otherwise
>called voltage spikes or transient surges, are abrupt increases in
>household voltage what happen when high-energy appliances or computers
>are powered on.

Ok, they got that right.

>Such surges can take place in excess of 2,000 times
>per year in homes, slowly destroying the components of a home.

I have a power line monitor and recorder at several mountain top radio
sites. It monitors surges, glitches, sags, over voltage, and other
power line impairments. On a typical day, it records about 10 alarms,
most of which are surges. During a storm, I'll see hundreds each day.
Most of them are harmless and will never go through a transformer or
get past even the most crude protection circuits. However, about once
a week, I see an event that has the potential for doing real damage.
<http://www.enetics.com/app-PQM.html>
(It's not this one but something similar).

>=====> Is this sentence true. Many times a year? And more
>importantly, *slowly* destroying. Not ruined or "no damage"?

Nope, it's not true. Glitches do not erode or promote progressive
deterioration in electronic devices. Glitches break down
semiconductor junctions, which kills the transistor(s). It's the same
as getting hit by a static blast or lightning bolt. Once zapped, it's
totally ruined.

There are some obscure failure modes where static and power line
glitches cause a form of progressive deterioration by increasing
device leakage current, but that's rare and unusual.

> computer, a cell phone, and other fragile electronic equipment. Other
>home appliances, furnaces, air conditioners, washers, dryers, and the
>like, are also know to create surges which travel back through the
>main breaker panel and out again through the home wiring.

Amazing. Yes, back EMF glitches are theoretically possible from these
devices. However, all of the appliances already contain surge
protectors that protect in both directions (going in, and coming out).
With AC motors, such glitches are unlikely. The various regulatory
agencies would not issue a sticker if the appliance dumped power back
into the AC line. It is possible with large DC motors, such as the
starter motor in your vehicle, but the typical AC motor will only
create a voltage sag (decrease), usually caused by faulty or
overloaded wiring. Voltage swell (increase) is unlikely.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Broken CFL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 3:55 pm
From: bz

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in
news:YkR%o.616920$Bh.15709@en-nntp-12.dc1.easynews.com:

> I haven't seen a hot/warm CFL burst (yet), but I've had 3 of 'em start
> to strobe, and then the glass spiral tubes got very hot, and may have
> broken by themselves, but I was present each time, and shut them off.
>
> I'm no specialist, but spilling cold mercury may not be the same as
> releasing hot mercury vapor.. although I'm fairly certain that avoiding
> either exposure is a good idea.

Hot implies ALL the mercury present is going to be in the form of vapor.
Since, at room temperature, mercury has a significant vapor pressure, it is
unlikely that any will condense, you will be receive maximum exposure
rapidly.

The hazard is acute mercury poisoning.

Hold your breath, evacuate the room(s or area).
With good ventilation, airing out the room would probably be all that is
necessary and the proper response.

If you inhaled any of the vapor, get to an emergency room so that they can
test for and treat you for acute mercury poisoning.

When I was a college student studying chemistry, one of my fellow students
was exposed to a large dose of mercury vapor when an experiment left over a
Bunsen burner generated mercury vapor in the lab he was working along in.
(Yeah, he should not have been alone and the people heating the mercuric
chloride solution should have turned off their burner when they left the
lab).

He was found crawling out of the lab, taken to the hospital and treated by
IV injection of chelating agents that removed the mercury from his system.
He survived.

The treatment was extremely painful. He would have died without it.

'Cool' mercury presents a different hazard: accumulation of mercury in your
system due to long term exposure.

A few drops spilled in the corner of the room where you work will evaporate
slowly and be accumulated in your system, causing mercury poisoning.

Removal of ALL spilled mercury is NECESSARY and requires careful clean up
because it likes to break up into extremely small droplets and they can
splash long distances.

>
> And as was mentioned, long tubes weren't ever scrutinized as much, and
> look how many decades they have been used in massive quantities.
> Also, I believe that mercury was present in early latex paints, intended
> to replace the lead paints as a safer solution.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>
> "bob urz" <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote in message
> news:ihldsr$2e1$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>> http://www.epa.gov/cfl/cflcleanup.html
>>
>> bob
>
>

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 4:16 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

bz wrote:
cut
> A few drops spilled in the corner of the room where you work will evaporate
> slowly and be accumulated in your system, causing mercury poisoning.
>
> Removal of ALL spilled mercury is NECESSARY and requires careful clean up
> because it likes to break up into extremely small droplets and they can
> splash long distances.
Hm... According to your theory I should have been dead
already 5 times over.
I have to disappoint you, still alive(67) and going strong.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need models to buy, and to avoid for laptop computer
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db8856ed635bbd2f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 5:01 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

My wife's Dell computer has died, according to our son who is a
computer expert. I am looking for suggestions on brands to buy and to
avoid, when we go out looking tomorrow. She is looking at PC World
and Consumer's Reports for info, but I thought some opinions from the
trenches was also important. Suggestions to buy and/or to avoid.

Thanks

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 6:05 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:01:45 -0800 (PST), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>My wife's Dell computer has died, according to our son who is a
>computer expert.

You might consider getting a 2nd opinion. Your son probably doesn't
want to fix it for free. Also, if the unspecified model Dell is
fairly current, it might be possible to get Nvidia to fix it for free:
<http://www.nvidiasettlement.com>

>I am looking for suggestions on brands to buy and to
>avoid, when we go out looking tomorrow.

It doesn't work like that. Every brand of laptops has their winner
and losers. Often, if a manufacturer has a winning line of machines,
they will recycle the name and model number series on their latest
models in the vain hope that maybe some of the good karma will rub off
on the new models, or that the customers won't notice that they're
totally different models. In other words, it's really difficult to
shop by brand name or even product line.

Most laptops are made by a collection of Chinese and Korean OEM
manufacturers. Just about all the brands have at least one product
line made by Quanta, Compal, or Wistron/Acer:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_laptop_brands_and_manufacturers#ODM_Laptop_Units_sold_and_Market_Shares>
I've gone down this list and attempted to correlate the OEM
manufacturer with my observed failure rate, and failed. They all seem
to have similar problems.

If you as a repairman what should your buy, you'll get a list of
machines with which they have had experience. That's fine if you want
to know which machines break and need repair. However, a better
question would be which machine do they *NOT* see coming in for
repair. As a hint, I see large numbers of HP, Compaq, Dell, and Asus
late model laptops. I see a few Toshibas. I rarely see Lenovo,
Panasonic, or Acer.

>She is looking at PC World
>and Consumer's Reports for info, but I thought some opinions from the
>trenches was also important. Suggestions to buy and/or to avoid.

Avoid generalizations, Consumer Report, and PC World reviews. One
size/type laptop does not fit all applications and budgets. If you
must read reviews, I suggest CNET.
<http://reviews.cnet.com/laptops/>

First, some questions:
1. How much does she want to spend? If your budget is unlimited, I
have some nice $3,000+ W701ds Lenovo or Toughbook CF-31 machines for
her. If she doesn't want to spend that much, she can do quite will
with referbished and last years models.
2. How paranoid is she? 1 year warranty, or extend it to 3 years. 3
years is all most of the manufacturers will offer. That also doesn't
include breakage warranty, which is covered seperately.
3. What is she going to do with it? If it's just general purpose web
crawling, email, and some productivity apps, almost anything will
work. However, if she's doing video, YouTube, Netflix, CAD, number
crunching, simulations, Photoshop, or high end games, it's going to
take some real horsepower.
4. Of course, some techy details like size of screen, max weight,
necessary options, BlueGoof, Blue-ray, etc?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 8:48 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Jan 30, 8:05 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:01:45 -0800 (PST), "hrhofm...@att.net"
>
> <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote:
> >My wife's Dell computer has died, according to our son who is a
> >computer expert.
>
> You might consider getting a 2nd opinion. Your son probably doesn't
> want to fix it for free. Also, if the unspecified model Dell is
> fairly current, it might be possible to get Nvidia to fix it for free:
> <http://www.nvidiasettlement.com>
>
> >I am looking for suggestions on brands to buy and to
> >avoid, when we go out looking tomorrow.
>
> It doesn't work like that. Every brand of laptops has their winner
> and losers. Often, if a manufacturer has a winning line of machines,
> they will recycle the name and model number series on their latest
> models in the vain hope that maybe some of the good karma will rub off
> on the new models, or that the customers won't notice that they're
> totally different models. In other words, it's really difficult to
> shop by brand name or even product line.
>
> Most laptops are made by a collection of Chinese and Korean OEM
> manufacturers. Just about all the brands have at least one product
> line made by Quanta, Compal, or Wistron/Acer:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_laptop_brands_and_manufacturers#...>
> I've gone down this list and attempted to correlate the OEM
> manufacturer with my observed failure rate, and failed. They all seem
> to have similar problems.
>
> If you as a repairman what should your buy, you'll get a list of
> machines with which they have had experience. That's fine if you want
> to know which machines break and need repair. However, a better
> question would be which machine do they *NOT* see coming in for
> repair. As a hint, I see large numbers of HP, Compaq, Dell, and Asus
> late model laptops. I see a few Toshibas. I rarely see Lenovo,
> Panasonic, or Acer.
>
> >She is looking at PC World
> >and Consumer's Reports for info, but I thought some opinions from the
> >trenches was also important. Suggestions to buy and/or to avoid.
>
> Avoid generalizations, Consumer Report, and PC World reviews. One
> size/type laptop does not fit all applications and budgets. If you
> must read reviews, I suggest CNET.
> <http://reviews.cnet.com/laptops/>
>
> First, some questions:
> 1. How much does she want to spend? If your budget is unlimited, I
> have some nice $3,000+ W701ds Lenovo or Toughbook CF-31 machines for
> her. If she doesn't want to spend that much, she can do quite will
> with referbished and last years models.
> 2. How paranoid is she? 1 year warranty, or extend it to 3 years. 3
> years is all most of the manufacturers will offer. That also doesn't
> include breakage warranty, which is covered seperately.
> 3. What is she going to do with it? If it's just general purpose web
> crawling, email, and some productivity apps, almost anything will
> work. However, if she's doing video, YouTube, Netflix, CAD, number
> crunching, simulations, Photoshop, or high end games, it's going to
> take some real horsepower.
> 4. Of course, some techy details like size of screen, max weight,
> necessary options, BlueGoof, Blue-ray, etc?
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

All good comments, Jeff, I have seen most of your posts and you are
almost always right on. My wife will use the laptop for general
purpose stuff, no high-speed or great memory requirements, just a
basic wireless internet connection. She had a older Dell Inspiron
1000 which was pretty much bottom of the line when she got it at least
5 years ago. Right now she is leaning toward a Toshiba.

Our son gets paid for his work, he has solved many problems for us
over the years, and has built complete laptops using parts cobbled
from other machines. So, when he says it is final, I totally believe
him. In fact, my wife is using my rebuilt machine from our son right
now, and I am using my desktop machine while my wife has my laptop.
I'll post whatever we buy tomorrow, as a blizzard is forecast for Tue
and Wed and I leave Thursday for a skiing vacation and I will need my
laptop to use while away from home.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 10:16 pm
From: "WW"

<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:dae9a047-e8dc-4578-a710-bcb016f23b70@a5g2000vbs.googlegroups.com...
> My wife's Dell computer has died, according to our son who is a
> computer expert. I am looking for suggestions on brands to buy and to
> avoid, when we go out looking tomorrow. She is looking at PC World
> and Consumer's Reports for info, but I thought some opinions from the
> trenches was also important. Suggestions to buy and/or to avoid.
>
> Thanks

Our extended family has 6 Dell's. No problems. So we will continue with Dell
if we purchase any more. WW

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 11:45 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 20:48:48 -0800 (PST), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>She had a older Dell Inspiron
>1000 which was pretty much bottom of the line when she got it at least
>5 years ago.

Piece of junk. I've inherited a few from customers that have had
them blow up on them. Typically, a 2GHz P4 Celeron CPU with no
internal Wi-Fi. Slower than a snail, even fully loaded with RAM.
Probably a good excuse or time to replace it.

>Right now she is leaning toward a Toshiba.

Two of my customers/friends (the customers pay me, the friends do not)
have purchased various Toshiblah laptops recently. No problems. Get
one with an Intel i5 processor. The i3 is too slow, and the i7 is too
expensive. 4GB RAM is about right for Windoze 7.

Some Toshiblah deals at Best Buy:
<http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olstemplatemapper.jsp?id=pcat17080&type=page&qp=crootcategoryid%23%23-1%23%23-1~~q70726f63657373696e6774696d653a3e313930302d30312d3031~~cabcat0500000%23%230%23%2311a~~cabcat0502000%23%230%23%23o~~f510||546f7368696261~~f551||496e74656c26233137343b~~nf546||496e74656c26233137343b20436f726526233135333b206935&list=y&nrp=15&sc=abComputerSP&ks=960&usc=abcat0500000&sp=%2Bcurrentprice+skuid&list=y&iht=n&st=processingtime%3A%3E1900-01-01>
Amazon has them cheaper, but you'll have to wait for the sales and
closeouts.

>Our son gets paid for his work, he has solved many problems for us
>over the years, and has built complete laptops using parts cobbled
>from other machines.

Ok, he seems to know what he's doing. If he can't fix it, it's not
going to happen.

>I'll post whatever we buy tomorrow, as a blizzard is forecast for Tue
>and Wed and I leave Thursday for a skiing vacation and I will need my
>laptop to use while away from home.

Fairly good weather here in California. Warmer than usual, light
rain, a bit of fog.... my kind of weather.

It takes me about 6 hours to setup a typical "ready to run" Windoze 7"
machine. 2 hrs to get Windoze 7 up to date. One hour to remove the
junkware. One hour to load it with my favorite collection of
utilities.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/favorite-utils.html>
(a bit out of date and XP specific, but close enough). Another hour
to load Office 2003 and updates. One hours to show the customer (your
wife) how to use it. Probably a good thing to do while it's snowing.

Have fun skiing.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 5:25 pm
From: "Ron D."

heat sink goop

cars with both metric and english fasteners

bristol spline srews

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 11:12 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <E-CdnVJIOpMyONjQnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@giganews.com>,
aemeijers <aemeijers@att.net> wrote:

> I'll
> pre-paint enough of them and leave them stuck in the foam block sitting
> in a sunny window for several days, for maximum hardness (short of over
> baking.

Just power them. They'll give off plenty of heat to bake their fresh
coatings.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: NEW HOT PHOTOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eb17d27e46f28c1e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 11:50 pm
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 17 new messages in 9 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 17 new messages in 9 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive