sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: NEW HOT PHOTOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eb17d27e46f28c1e?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 11:50 pm
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

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TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 1:47 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ron D. <ron.dozier@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3704567b-3469-47f5-af0f-4251da36f1d8@17g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> heat sink goop
>
> cars with both metric and english fasteners
>
> bristol spline srews

Could you describe a "bristol spline screw" Google-images no help other than
they are used on 30KV rated relays

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Laptop not charging.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f52116e8141f1a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 2:50 am
From: T i m

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 22:54:53 +0000 (UTC), bz
<bz+nanae@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

>> We tried another battery and psu from a different 1545 (that had a
>> broken DC socket) but that didn't change anything.
>>

>The laptop 'talks' to the power supply over the central lead (there is a
>small computer IN the supply or a resistor that tells the computer the
>wattage of the supply).

OK, I guessed it did something clever like that (or I'm not sure how
else it could 'know').

>If that center lead is broken, the computer can run from the supply but
>will not allow the battery to charge.

OK.
>
>The flashing power indicator usually indicates a failing or failed battery
>pack.

Well I'd say it's not yer typical 'flashing' (I have seen that too)
but what looks like more of a fault code.
>
>I have fixed many 'bad' supplies by cutting the 'broken' spot out of the
>cord.

Same here, even if only ass an experiment or a kludge for myself.

>It is usually where the cord gets the most flexing.

Same with most flexy cables. I've salvaged a good few Dyson cleaners
for no more that lopping 3" off the lead at the cleaner end. One was
at the plug end though so that DC05 cost me 50p for a plug (cleaner
was off Freecycle). ;-)
>
>finding it, cutting and splicing the cord to fix it can be challenging.

Bread and butter to me luckily (I built / ran a mobile disco for 8
years).
>
>I usually cut a few inches from the power plug and check with an ohm meter.
>If I was lucky, that is the end and some work with a razor knife, soldering
>iron and hot glue and you are back working.

Yup. A bit of a push-n-a-wiggle will highlight a lot of problems. ;-)

>If it is at the power brick end, you will probably have to crack the brick
>open with a screwdriver and solder the cord into the brick.

Done that as well. Neat hacksaw cut along the seam normally gets you
pretty close.
>
>Sometimes, I end up with repairs at both ends and a cord that is much
>shorter, in between.

;-)
>
>Hint for all laptop supply users:
>NEVER NEVER NEVER wrap the cord tightly around the supply, bending it
>sharply near where it exits the supply.
>Coil it loosely and let it look messy.

Seconded. The number of times I see that being done. Apart from
knowing what it can do to the conductors it's not 'seamanlike (same
with those who coil rope round their hand and elbow).
>
>NEVER NEVE NEVER put a aharp bend in the cord near the plug nor near the
>brick.

Yup, loose coil leaving it as straight as possible then coil (although
I should imagine / hope that was egg sucking training to many here).
;-)

Cheers, T i m

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 6:07 am
From: bz

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote in
news:5a4dk6h97crhabdbn0mmf9d850j9tqhb0h@4ax.com:

....
> Yup, loose coil leaving it as straight as possible then coil (although
> I should imagine / hope that was egg sucking training to many here).
> ;-)

Yep, but newbies sometimes find the threads via google while researching
their problems.

"Pointing out the obvious" is often done 'for their benefit'.

>
> Cheers, T i m
>

Likewise and best regards.
-bz-

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ce6c11f1c7a190bf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 4:18 am
From: "Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE"

hrhofmann@att.net wrote:
> On Jan 30, 10:39 am, "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <g...@mendelson.com>
> wrote:
> > mm wrote:
> > > Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
> >
> > > At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
> >
[snip]
> > When I moved, I took down the antenna, I wonder what my neighbors thought
> > when the lightening returned. :-(
> >
> > Geoff.
> >
> > --
> > Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> > Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.
>
> Geoff:
>
> Lightening is what Michael Jackson did to his face. Lightning is that
> big electrical discharge from the sky <G>
>
> Bob Hofmann

Well, it was en-lightening anyway ;-)

Kind regards, Eike

--
"The adventures may be mad, but the adventurer must be sane."
- G. K. Chesterton (1908)

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 5:16 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

>>"whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>news:844078cf-ed6d->>493b-a693-227b095fc32c@x17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>>On Jan 30, 8:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>>
>> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.

>Ask your home insurance agent. It's unlikely that the
>prospect of homeowner repair of fire-safety items is
>going to be highly regarded. Also ask if the damage
>to your surge suppressor is covered by your insurance.

If fixed properly, how would they know? As long as he isnt obviously
bodgeing something togeather it should be fine.

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 5:28 am
From: Boris Mohar

Leviton. Ground it well with as short ground wire as possible to good house
ground.

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 11:03:05 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:

>Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
>At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
>
>I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. When one of
>them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>
>I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
>those units that might have them.
>
>Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
>first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>
>
>I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
>repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>
>
>Items for sale, if interested:
>I can install it myself. I'm considering, in ascending price order:
>http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/dp/B003NVLWN2/ref=pd_luc_sbs_00_01_t_lh
>http://www.amazon.com/INTERMATIC-IG3240RC3-PANEL-SURGE-ARRESTOR/dp/B003A3MUJI/ref=pd_luc_sbs_00_02_t_lh
>http://www.smarthome.com/4860/Leviton-51120-1-Whole-House-Surge-Suppressor-Surge-Protector/p.aspx
>
>
>and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)
>http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI
--
Boris

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 6:45 am
From: GS

On Jan 30, 11:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
> I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. When one of
> them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>
> I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
> those units that might have them.
>
> Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
> first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>
> I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
> repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>
> Items for sale, if interested:
> I can install it myself. I'm considering, in ascending price order:http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/d...http://www.amazon.com/INTERMATIC-IG3240RC3-PANEL-SURGE-ARRESTOR/dp/B0...http://www.smarthome.com/4860/Leviton-51120-1-Whole-House-Surge-Suppr...
>
> and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI

Its easy to find expensive ones. I guess if you can figure out how to
take it apart
you can fix it. I bought one a few months ago for $35. Here is another
http://www.drillspot.com/products/122270/Square_D_SDSA1175_Surge_Arrestor_1_Phase_240VAC
Drillspot sells Grainger stuff.

greg

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 8:37 am
From: GS

On Jan 31, 9:45 am, GS <ze...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On Jan 30, 11:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> > At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
> > I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. When one of
> > them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>
> > I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
> > those units that might have them.
>
> > Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
> > first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>
> > I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
> > repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>
> > Items for sale, if interested:
> > I can install it myself. I'm considering, in ascending price order:http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/d......
>
> > and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI
>
> Its easy to find expensive ones. I guess if you can figure out how to
> take it apart
> you can fix it. I bought one a few months ago for $35. Here is anotherhttp://www.drillspot.com/products/122270/Square_D_SDSA1175_Surge_Arre...
> Drillspot sells Grainger stuff.
>
> greg

So I showed you the same model you showed first. But, you do NOT need
TWO.

There seems like a lot of confusion on protectors and the
manufacturers seem
to have various schemes going on. Some of the very small portable
devices by
Tripplite have ratings that indicate higher amps than the regular
whole house protectors. I installed the 'secondary" protector in my
breaker box
and I probably have 10 other protectors all around the house.

You should not have to keep buying new ones. You got some kind of
problem that
requires attention.

greg

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 8:57 am
From: mm

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 22:16:51 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
<mikek400@crap.comcast.net> wrote:

>
>>>"whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>>news:844078cf-ed6d->>493b-a693-227b095fc32c@x17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
>>>On Jan 30, 8:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>>>
>>> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
>>Ask your home insurance agent. It's unlikely that the
>>prospect of homeowner repair of fire-safety items is
>>going to be highly regarded.

I didn't think of this until Michael posted but so what? Say I
repaired it and say I didn't do a good job: My insurance doesn't
require me to have a surge suprressor, so if I repair it and do a bad
job, and it doesn't cause damage nor does it prevent damage the next
time, they are no worse off than if I had never bought one. So they
should still pay.

I want the SurgeSupp is more so I don't have to go shopping again, and
read new instruction manuals.

>>Also ask if the damage
>>to your surge suppressor is covered by your insurance.
>
>If fixed properly, how would they know? As long as he isnt obviously
>bodgeing something togeather it should be fine.

Yes. Also, I hadn't even considered claiming damage to the surge
suppressor on my insureance.

So do they sell at retail the MOVs or other parts I would need rebuild
a surge suppressor.

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 9:01 am
From: GS

On Jan 31, 11:57 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 22:16:51 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
>
> <mikek...@crap.comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >>>"whit3rd" <whit...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >>>news:844078cf-ed6d->>493b-a693-227b095fc__BEGIN_MASK_n#9g02mG7!__...__END_MASK_i?a63jfAD$z__@x17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> >>>On Jan 30, 8:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> >>> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> >>> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
> >>Ask your home insurance agent. It's unlikely that the
> >>prospect of homeowner repair of fire-safety items is
> >>going to be highly regarded.
>
> I didn't think of this until Michael posted but so what? Say I
> repaired it and say I didn't do a good job: My insurance doesn't
> require me to have a surge suprressor, so if I repair it and do a bad
> job, and it doesn't cause damage nor does it prevent damage the next
> time, they are no worse off than if I had never bought one. So they
> should still pay.
>
> I want the SurgeSupp is more so I don't have to go shopping again, and
> read new instruction manuals.
>
> >>Also ask if the damage
> >>to your surge suppressor is covered by your insurance.
>
> >If fixed properly, how would they know? As long as he isnt obviously
> >bodgeing something togeather it should be fine.
>
> Yes. Also, I hadn't even considered claiming damage to the surge
> suppressor on my insureance.
>
> So do they sell at retail the MOVs or other parts I would need rebuild
> a surge suppressor.

Yes.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062574#

You can also rent a suppressor from the electric company which they
will
install in your meter. I have no idea how they would know if it goes
bad.

greg

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 9:09 am
From: GS

On Jan 31, 12:01 pm, GS <ze...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On Jan 31, 11:57 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 22:16:51 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
>
> > <mikek...@crap.comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > >>>"whit3rd" <whit...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > >>>news:844078cf-ed6d->>493b-a693-227b095fc__BEGIN_MASK_n#9g02mG7!__...__END_MASK_i?a63jfAD$__BEGIN_MASK_n#9g02mG7!__...__END_MASK_i?a63jfAD$z__@x17g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> > >>>On Jan 30, 8:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> > >>> Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> > >>> At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
> > >>Ask your home insurance agent. It's unlikely that the
> > >>prospect of homeowner repair of fire-safety items is
> > >>going to be highly regarded.
>
> > I didn't think of this until Michael posted but so what? Say I
> > repaired it and say I didn't do a good job: My insurance doesn't
> > require me to have a surge suprressor, so if I repair it and do a bad
> > job, and it doesn't cause damage nor does it prevent damage the next
> > time, they are no worse off than if I had never bought one. So they
> > should still pay.
>
> > I want the SurgeSupp is more so I don't have to go shopping again, and
> > read new instruction manuals.
>
> > >>Also ask if the damage
> > >>to your surge suppressor is covered by your insurance.
>
> > >If fixed properly, how would they know? As long as he isnt obviously
> > >bodgeing something togeather it should be fine.
>
> > Yes. Also, I hadn't even considered claiming damage to the surge
> > suppressor on my insureance.
>
> > So do they sell at retail the MOVs or other parts I would need rebuild
> > a surge suppressor.
>
> Yes.
>
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062574#
>
> You can also rent a suppressor from the electric company which they
> will
> install in your meter. I have no idea how they would know if it goes
> bad.
>
> greg

Compare this to the Leviton Joule rating.

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtSeriesID=830&txtModelID=121

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 9:19 am
From: mm

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:37:32 -0800 (PST), GS <zekor@comcast.net>
wrote:

>On Jan 31, 9:45�am, GS <ze...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> On Jan 30, 11:03�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>>
>> > At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>>
>> > I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. �When one of
>> > them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>>
>> > I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
>> > those units that might have them.
>>
>> > Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
>> > first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>>
>> > I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
>> > repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>>
>> > Items for sale, if interested:
>> > I can install it myself. �I'm considering, in ascending price order:http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/d......
>>
>> > and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI
>>
>> Its easy to find expensive ones. I guess if you can figure out how to
>> take it apart
>> you can fix it. I bought one a few months ago for $35. Here is anotherhttp://www.drillspot.com/products/122270/Square_D_SDSA1175_Surge_Arre...
>> Drillspot sells Grainger stuff.

Thanks. Now it's 56 dollars. I see that Amazon has this 36 also
including shipping.
>>
>> greg
>
>So I showed you the same model you showed first. But, you do NOT need
>TWO.

Oh, thank you. I got confused by the drawing, at
http://surgelogic.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/SDSA1175_IB_8291-0014F.pdf
which shows two for 3-phase (but only one for single-phase), and since
it has only 3 wires, one to the neutral, but none to the ground like
some others have.

Do you think I should to connect a surge suppressor to unused circuit
breakers? Some instructions say to do that for increased sensitivity
but others say nothing about it. Because the circuits I wanted to
use are often off or almost totally off, just the baseline portable tv
current or a cordless phone charger running.

It also says "Twist wires one half turn or more for
every 12 in. (305 mm) of length." That means when all three wires are
running together, right? In conduit or something? Once they
separate, even if the wires are stranded, there's no point to twisting
them, is there?

>There seems like a lot of confusion on protectors and the
>manufacturers seem
>to have various schemes going on. Some of the very small portable
>devices by
>Tripplite have ratings that indicate higher amps than the regular
>whole house protectors. I installed the 'secondary" protector in my
>breaker box

If thse are secondary, as they also call them, then where is the
primary? On the electric pole?

>and I probably have 10 other protectors all around the house.
>
>You should not have to keep buying new ones. You got some kind of
>problem that requires attention.

I've never even needed one. I was just planning ahead.
>
>greg

Thanks a lot, GB, and thanks everyone.

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 9:55 am
From: GS

On Jan 31, 12:19 pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 08:37:32 -0800 (PST), GS <ze...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On Jan 31, 9:45 am, GS <ze...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> On Jan 30, 11:03 am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
> >> > Is it possible to repair a whole house surge suppressor?
>
> >> > At 100 to 200 dollars, I don't want to keep buying new ones.
>
> >> > I was going to install a whole house surge suppressor. When one of
> >> > them does its function, I think the MOV burns out, or some part does.
>
> >> > I haven't seen anything on the web about replacement modules for even
> >> > those units that might have them.
>
> >> > Will I be able to find, buy, and solder in replacement MOVs after the
> >> > first one burns out? (the green led goes out and the red led goes on)
>
> >> > I can't find any info about plug-in replacement parts, so if I can
> >> > repair any unit myself, I won't have to shop so thoroughly.
>
> >> > Items for sale, if interested:
> >> > I can install it myself. I'm considering, in ascending price order:http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG1240RC3-Type-2-Protection-Device/d......
>
> >> > and less likely (plus two are required, one for each leg)http://www.amazon.com/Square-D-SDSA1175CP-ARRESTER-LIGHTNG/dp/B002GUZ1NI
>
> >> Its easy to find expensive ones. I guess if you can figure out how to
> >> take it apart
> >> you can fix it. I bought one a few months ago for $35. Here is anotherhttp://www.drillspot.com/products/122270/Square_D_SDSA1175_Surge_Arre...
> >> Drillspot sells Grainger stuff.
>
> Thanks. Now it's 56 dollars. I see that Amazon has this 36 also
> including shipping.
>
>
>
> >> greg
>
> >So I showed you the same model you showed first. But, you do NOT need
> >TWO.
>
> Oh, thank you. I got confused by the drawing, athttp://surgelogic.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/SDSA1175_IB_8291-001...
> which shows two for 3-phase (but only one for single-phase), and since
> it has only 3 wires, one to the neutral, but none to the ground like
> some others have.
>
> Do you think I should to connect a surge suppressor to unused circuit
> breakers? Some instructions say to do that for increased sensitivity
> but others say nothing about it. Because the circuits I wanted to
> use are often off or almost totally off, just the baseline portable tv
> current or a cordless phone charger running.

Codes may be different. Some circuit breakers will work with two
wires, many
will NOT. Its specified in the breaker specs. It may be against code
in your area.

The picked up the cheapest Home Depot and it will work with two wires,
and
stranded wires.

> It also says "Twist wires one half turn or more for
> every 12 in. (305 mm) of length." That means when all three wires are
> running together, right? In conduit or something? Once they
> separate, even if the wires are stranded, there's no point to twisting
> them, is there?

Right.

> >There seems like a lot of confusion on protectors and the
> >manufacturers seem
> >to have various schemes going on. Some of the very small portable
> >devices by
> >Tripplite have ratings that indicate higher amps than the regular
> >whole house protectors. I installed the 'secondary" protector in my
> >breaker box
>
> If thse are secondary, as they also call them, then where is the
> primary? On the electric pole?

Secondary seems to mostly refer to devices near or attached to the
equipment.
Like, your whole house air conditioner might use a secondary
suppressor
near the unit, which is fed from the breaker box wiring.
Secondary devices will be attached via a breaker in any case.
Primary?? Maybe the one in the meter.

> >and I probably have 10 other protectors all around the house.
>
> >You should not have to keep buying new ones. You got some kind of
> >problem that requires attention.
>
> I've never even needed one. I was just planning ahead.
>
>
>
> >greg

Good going.

greg

>
> Thanks a lot, GB, and thanks everyone.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Aldi, UK .7Kg packs of coloured hot melt glue sticks
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c9014bc76c30d9f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 5:33 am
From: "N_Cook"

2.50 GBP 11mm diameter Red,green,blue yellow, strong colours, I've never
seen elsewhere in shops and would cost that, just the p&p of mail order

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony date coding?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/346a6edb74254c7f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 5:48 am
From: "N_Cook"

Overlay white print on pcb .
4 squares then numeral 2
In the squares are domino-like dots , as
2,4,4,0
44th week of 2002 ? year 2 from the first or the fifth number?
or 24/4/02 ?, unlikley to be non-USA dates
from one IC ,only ,probably 2002
need another example at least to clarify

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Exploding Duracell ProCell alkaline battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/176056a86108c6a8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 30 2011 12:22 pm
From: mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier)

In article <ave0k61q1fca12j9vdalu2jgbu4ocqd175@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 19:49:53 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
><mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>2. Do all 9v have AAAA inside?
>
>I don't know. I know that the cheap carbon-zinc 9V batteries do not
>have cells, but I suspect that the others qualify. I've torn apart a
>few others and found AAAA cells. There are many web pages and You
>Tube videos that show what's inside.

A week or two ago, I ended up with several dead 9V alkalines and decided
to scrap off the end piece with the connectors.

Both Duracell and Energizer have cylindrical cells inside. Duracell
spotwelds them together with metal strap. Energizer just has a metal
contact pattern with jumpers on a spacer and uses the metal outer case
crimp to put pressure onto the cell contacts. My guess is that a 9V
Energizer would be more likely to go bad if dropped too hard, but it's
easier to get individual cells out of it.

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 7:08 am
From: Ron

On 30/01/2011 20:22, Mark Zenier wrote:
> In article<ave0k61q1fca12j9vdalu2jgbu4ocqd175@4ax.com>,
> Jeff Liebermann<jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 19:49:53 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
>> <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> 2. Do all 9v have AAAA inside?
>>
>> I don't know. I know that the cheap carbon-zinc 9V batteries do not
>> have cells, but I suspect that the others qualify. I've torn apart a
>> few others and found AAAA cells. There are many web pages and You
>> Tube videos that show what's inside.
>
> A week or two ago, I ended up with several dead 9V alkalines and decided
> to scrap off the end piece with the connectors.
>
> Both Duracell and Energizer have cylindrical cells inside. Duracell
> spotwelds them together with metal strap. Energizer just has a metal
> contact pattern with jumpers on a spacer and uses the metal outer case
> crimp to put pressure onto the cell contacts. My guess is that a 9V
> Energizer would be more likely to go bad if dropped too hard, but it's
> easier to get individual cells out of it.
>
> Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com
> Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)
>

Which is exactly the reason we don't use Energisers in radio microphones!

Ron (UK)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Broken CFL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 6:03 am
From: bz

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll> wrote in
news:4d45ff79$0$8916$703f8584@textnews.kpn.nl:

> bz wrote:
> cut
>> A few drops spilled in the corner of the room where you work will
>> evaporate slowly and be accumulated in your system, causing mercury
>> poisoning.
>>
>> Removal of ALL spilled mercury is NECESSARY and requires careful clean
>> up because it likes to break up into extremely small droplets and they
>> can splash long distances.
> Hm... According to your theory I should have been dead
> already 5 times over.
> I have to disappoint you, still alive(67) and going strong.

Depends on the ventilation in the area where you work and the amount of
time you spend there.

Also, you are unlikely to die of chronic mercury poisoning.

Do you have any of these symptoms?

http://www.mercurypoisoned.com/symptoms.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard pwr_on pins resistance?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/65d60dc1b24d5107?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 7:16 am
From: mynick

What you should get between those pins of a good PC mobo when you
test with ohm-meter

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 8:20 am
From: Adrian C

On 31/01/2011 15:16, mynick wrote:
> What you should get between those pins of a good PC mobo when you
> test with ohm-meter

Normally, something other than a dead short.

--
Adrian C

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 9:42 am
From: mynick

On Jan 31, 5:20 pm, Adrian C <em...@here.invalid> wrote:
> On 31/01/2011 15:16, mynick wrote:
>
> > What you should get between those pins of a good PC mobo when you
> > test with ohm-meter
>
> Normally, something other than a dead short.
>
> --
> Adrian C

are those directly connected to 'green and black wire' on atx power
connector on motherboard

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 10:02 am
From: Adrian C

On 31/01/2011 17:42, mynick wrote:
> On Jan 31, 5:20 pm, Adrian C<em...@here.invalid> wrote:
>> On 31/01/2011 15:16, mynick wrote:
>>
>>> What you should get between those pins of a good PC mobo when you
>>> test with ohm-meter
>>
>> Normally, something other than a dead short.
>>
>> --
>> Adrian C
>
> are those directly connected to 'green and black wire' on atx power
> connector on motherboard

No, there normally is a transistor to switch that - and that is after a
circuit powered by the standby 5V supply (for a typical ATX rig) that's
involved in other power monitoring stuff. What you can measure as
resistance across the contacts could be anything, and not really conclusive.

What's the problem?

Maybe a read of the following may help

http://www.aitechsolutions.net/pchwtrblsht.html

--
Adrian C

==============================================================================
TOPIC: possible problem with Sony flat-face WEGA
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8fc4ce0a3ea9ba13?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 8:21 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 12:22:35 -0800, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> Wait until it's a problem that doesn't go away after 2 seconds.
>
> In other words, wait until an "intermittent" becomes permanent.
>
> Definitely common sense -- but I'd rather make an end run around the
> problem.

Good luck.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need models to buy, and to avoid for laptop computer
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db8856ed635bbd2f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 31 2011 8:26 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 30 Jan 2011 17:01:45 -0800, hrhofmann@att.net wrote:

> My wife's Dell computer has died, according to our son who is a computer
> expert. I am looking for suggestions on brands to buy and to avoid,
> when we go out looking tomorrow. She is looking at PC World and
> Consumer's Reports for info, but I thought some opinions from the
> trenches was also important. Suggestions to buy and/or to avoid.
>
> Thanks

Avoid Dell, HP, Acer.

Look into IBM, Asus, Toshiba, Panasonic.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================

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