sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Canon A420 camera - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a9e31849085804?hl=en
* 12 volt automotive sealed beam lamps in series - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fbedfb20fe2856fd?hl=en
* TAMIL ACTRESS HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63fac7c337a98494?hl=en
* Lexicon PCM70 legacy digital effects unit ... - 9 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/17f3dc5cf3d1cb36?hl=en
* Samsung TV - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf5e2373e39d7fc0?hl=en
* SMD 1 percent resistor markings - aide memoire? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c52c0c1e4db26587?hl=en
* Luxman R117 receiver with oscillation - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/838f082c24ccbfd8?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Canon A420 camera
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a9e31849085804?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 7:57 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 13:56:46 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> "Meathead Blowhard"
>>
>>> ** The advice for your problem is that the shutter is stuck open
>>> causing over exposure on bright subjects.
>>
>> Only if it had a shutter.
>
>
> ** Fuck off - IMBECILE !!!!!!!!!!

Is that OOOPSIE! in Phil-Speak? :)

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 8:22 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Geo <hw9j-s5hw@dea.spamcon.org> wrote:

> On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 15:28:03 +0000, adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid
> (Adrian Tuddenham) wrote:
>
> >Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> >
> >> "Adrian Tuddenham"
> >>
> >>
> >> ** The advice for your problem is that the shutter is stuck open
> >> causing over exposure on bright subjects.
> >
> >That seems to be the most likely cause. I have found a firm that will
> >repair it (with a guarantee) for £72, so that is my least-bad option.
>
> Have you looked at the price and spec of a Canon replacement? e.g:-
> <http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Finder/Cameras/Digital_Camera/Pow
> erShot/PowerShot_A495/>

That does look pretty good as long as I can get the pictures out of it.

It says it will take SD cards, so my external reader might work with it.
(I seem to remember some memory card size limitation on either the
reader or the camera, can't remember which.)

-- ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to
reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:24 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Geo"

> Have you looked at the price and spec of a Canon replacement?
> e.g:-
> <http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Finder/Cameras/Digital_Camera/PowerShot/PowerShot_A495/>

** The A495 is no replacement for the A420 - since it completely lacks an
optical viewfinder.

The A420 has one with inbuilt zoom that actually tracks the main lens -
without an optical viewfinder, such cameras become near useless in daylight
because the LCD screen is washed out.

I have owned an A430 ( near identical to the A420 ) for the last 4 years.

... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 12 volt automotive sealed beam lamps in series
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fbedfb20fe2856fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 8:02 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Jan 5, 10:57 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Jan 5, 8:57 am, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 17:22:27 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>
> > <mike.terr...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > >klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> > >> I have a 24 volt military truck that I use for snow plowing. In the
> > >> past I've had trouble finding 6000 series 24 volt sealed beam lamps
> > >> for the plow frame.. And when I did I have found them to be very
> > >> expensive. So I came up with a circuit using a DPDT switch in which
> > >> both the high and low circuit lamp filaments are wired in series when
> > >> power is applied. I was very careful to initially select two lamps
> > >> that drew exactly the same current when tested on my bench power
> > >> supply. The arrangement has worked flawlessly for the past few years.
> > >> The other night I had occaision to look at the lights from outside the
> > >> truck while it was running. Charging voltage on a 24 volt system can
> > >> run as high as 28 volts on a typical 24 volt system. Although I didn't
> > >> try to measure the voltage accross each lamp, I noticed that one lamp
> > >> is slightly brighter than the other on the low circuit. I'm assuming
> > >> that filament is getting weaker and thinner and will likely fail
> > >> shortly. And of course when that happens I'll lose the low circuit. I
> > >> can rematch two more lamps but before I do the thought occurred to me
> > >> if there was any practical easy way the equalise the voltage accross
> > >> both lamps in order to compensate for any minute differences in
> > >> filament resistance. I think that the total current, (two lamps in
> > >> series) is about 5.0 amps. Thanks for any suggestions. Lenny
>
> > > How about a 24 V to 12 V converter to power the headlamps? National
> > >Semiconductor makes the 'Simple Switcher' series of regulators.
>
> > Would this 'simple switcher' handle the 5 amps that a headlamp draws?
> > If so then it would be a really interesting solution. (A typical
> > halogen headlight draws 4.5 to 5 amps.)
>
> > I suppose if you didn't care about efficiency a series regulator might
> > work, but it would sure generate a lot of heat! Course in the winter,
> > when it is cold out, that heat might be less of a problem. But your
> > suggestion of a switcher (which is much more efficient) is good.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Last night I put two 12 volt sealed beam lamps that I got from a
> vehicle in the junk yard on the bench and tested each one at 13V .They
> were both halogen but appeared to be not from the same lot. Each lamp
> drew almost 5.0A. The power supply showed a difference of about .125A
> between lamps. I then wired the high beams in series and ran 28 volts,
> (theoretical worst case charging voltage) across them. Then I measured
> the voltage across each lamp. There was difference of about .450Volt
> between each lamp. Probably not enough to worry about. I have more
> lamps in the basement. I could possibly find a closer match if I
> really look I suppose however .450V doesn't seem like an awful lot to
> get upset about. Too bad I just couldn't employ a 10 amp zener diode,
> if such a thing existed. Imagine the size of the series
> resistor...What a seat warmer that would make on a cold Winter's
> night.
> Peter, I'd like to talk to you further about your military vehicles if
> you'd like to .It seems that we share the same hobby. Please email me
> privately at: captainvideo462...@yahoo.com Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I just noticed that the full number on my email address did not come
through. The full number is 462002

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 9:50 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 17:22:27 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> >>
> >> I have a 24 volt military truck that I use for snow plowing. In the
> >> past I've had trouble finding 6000 series 24 volt sealed beam lamps
> >> for the plow frame.. And when I did I have found them to be very
> >> expensive. So I came up with a circuit using a DPDT switch in which
> >> both the high and low circuit lamp filaments are wired in series when
> >> power is applied. I was very careful to initially select two lamps
> >> that drew exactly the same current when tested on my bench power
> >> supply. The arrangement has worked flawlessly for the past few years.
> >> The other night I had occaision to look at the lights from outside the
> >> truck while it was running. Charging voltage on a 24 volt system can
> >> run as high as 28 volts on a typical 24 volt system. Although I didn't
> >> try to measure the voltage accross each lamp, I noticed that one lamp
> >> is slightly brighter than the other on the low circuit. I'm assuming
> >> that filament is getting weaker and thinner and will likely fail
> >> shortly. And of course when that happens I'll lose the low circuit. I
> >> can rematch two more lamps but before I do the thought occurred to me
> >> if there was any practical easy way the equalise the voltage accross
> >> both lamps in order to compensate for any minute differences in
> >> filament resistance. I think that the total current, (two lamps in
> >> series) is about 5.0 amps. Thanks for any suggestions. Lenny
> >
> >
> > How about a 24 V to 12 V converter to power the headlamps? National
> >Semiconductor makes the 'Simple Switcher' series of regulators.
>
> Would this 'simple switcher' handle the 5 amps that a headlamp draws?
> If so then it would be a really interesting solution. (A typical
> halogen headlight draws 4.5 to 5 amps.)
>
> I suppose if you didn't care about efficiency a series regulator might
> work, but it would sure generate a lot of heat! Course in the winter,
> when it is cold out, that heat might be less of a problem. But your
> suggestion of a switcher (which is much more efficient) is good.

They have free software to design the switcher. Since you can use an
external pass transistor, you can handle whatever current you need.
Keep in mind that the lamps draw more than 5 A when they are cold, so
you want to double the capacity, or more. If you do, you could also
power a radio or other 12 V items from one switcher.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 10:29 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Brenda Ann wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
> news:kOydnbTKr5ZMhrnQnZ2dnUVZ_o-dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >
> > Klem Kedidelhopper was a comediene of 1950's vintage I think.that he
> > was the brain child of Red Skelton. When my son persuaded me to open
> > an email account many years ago after I repeatedly told him that I
> > would never have any use for one I had to pick a screen name.
> > Never really thinking that this would ever even go anywhere and not
> > fully taking this whole computer thing seriously at the time anyway, I
> > chose the name of one of my favorite TV characters. Well these days I
> > use email a lot, Klem is still on the job, I still think computers are
> > a royal pain in the ass, and surprisingly most people have no idea as
> > to who he was. Lenny.
>
> He was a 'County Bumpkin' character perfomed by Red Skelton on his TV
> variety show. Along with 'The mean widdle Kid', a bum named 'Freddy the
> Freeloader' and other characters.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Skelton
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> My favorite is/was Cauiflower McPug. Red performed all those characters on
> radio long before TV came along.

I liked all his characters. I watched his TV show every week, till
he went off the air. I have a couple VHS tapes & DVDs of his shows. :)

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 10:30 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

D Yuniskis wrote:
>
> On 1/5/2011 12:20 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >> Klem Kedidelhopper was a comediene of 1950's vintage I think.that he
> >> was the brain child of Red Skelton. When my son persuaded me to open
> >> an email account many years ago after I repeatedly told him that I
> >> would never have any use for one I had to pick a screen name.
> >> Never really thinking that this would ever even go anywhere and not
> >> fully taking this whole computer thing seriously at the time anyway, I
> >> chose the name of one of my favorite TV characters. Well these days I
> >> use email a lot, Klem is still on the job, I still think computers are
> >> a royal pain in the ass, and surprisingly most people have no idea as
> >> to who he was. Lenny.
>
> Not *the* Lenny Bruce?? ;-)
>
> > He was a 'County Bumpkin' character perfomed by Red Skelton on his TV
> > variety show. Along with 'The mean widdle Kid', a bum named 'Freddy the
> > Freeloader' and other characters.
>
> Gertrude and Heathcliff

The silly seagulls..

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TAMIL ACTRESS HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63fac7c337a98494?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 8:16 am
From: SAILAJA LOVES U

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lexicon PCM70 legacy digital effects unit ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/17f3dc5cf3d1cb36?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 8:27 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Archon" <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nI%Uo.564309$Bh.350268@en-nntp-12.dc1.easynews.com...
> On 1/5/2011 9:43 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Archon" <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:%g_Uo.284028$Ph5.110879@en-nntp-07.dc1.easynews.com...
>>> On 1/5/2011 5:18 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>>> Bit of a long shot, but I don't suppose anyone on here has got a scrap
>>>> one of these languishing up a corner in their cellar or wherever ?
>>>> Owner
>>>> of a shop that I do a lot of work for has been given one of these
>>>> lovely
>>>> old units, but the VFD is busted. Other than that, it all seems to work
>>>> just fine. It's an NEC 16 character 'starburst' type. Seems its actual
>>>> number is FIP16A5. There are references on the 'net, but no one
>>>> stocking
>>>> such an item even as NOS. Anyone help ?
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>>
>>>> Arfa
>>>
>>> Ebay #260659423706
>>>
>>> JC
>>
>> Thanks very much for that. I put the owner onto it, but I'm not sure if
>> he is going to be able to get it, as the seller is in the US and we are
>> in the UK. When he tried to do a 'buy it now' on it, it refused him as
>> not qualifying for some of the sellers set criteria for buyers, and the
>> one causing the problem was "seller does not ship to your location". He
>> is now in the process of contacting the seller to see if he will exempt
>> him from the condition as it is small and Jiffy-baggable, and ship it
>> anyway. Again, thanks for the pointer.
>>
>> Arfa
> Most US sellers will ship to the UK if asked, the problem with offering
> Worldwide shipping on Ebay is all the duff countries that sellers are
> exposed to. If its a problem I'm sure some of us Stateside can help with
> shipping a small item.
> JC

Thanks. I'll let you know how we get on, and if we need any help getting it

Arfa

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 9:55 am
From: n8ball

I have for sale if you still need.

I am in Atlanta Ga

Got it off an old Oberheim thought is the exact same part!

Also have a PCM 70 NOS somewhere in here...

If I find it I will give a quote.

Cheers,

Nate

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 11:10 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"n8ball" <natere2ster@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:487c6a07-5851-40fd-96a9-866ea948da22@f20g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
> I have for sale if you still need.
>
> I am in Atlanta Ga
>
> Got it off an old Oberheim thought is the exact same part!
>
> Also have a PCM 70 NOS somewhere in here...
>
> If I find it I will give a quote.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Nate
>

Thanks very much Nate - that's very helpful. Can you please mail me
off-group using the same address as I used to post this, so we can discuss
exactly what you have, and how much you need for it ? Thanks

Arfa

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 12:31 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 10:18:05 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Bit of a long shot, but I don't suppose anyone on here has got a scrap one
>of these languishing up a corner in their cellar or wherever ? Owner of a
>shop that I do a lot of work for has been given one of these lovely old
>units, but the VFD is busted. Other than that, it all seems to work just
>fine. It's an NEC 16 character 'starburst' type. Seems its actual number is
>FIP16A5. There are references on the 'net, but no one stocking such an item
>even as NOS. Anyone help ?

You have the part number mangled. It's an NEC FIP1615R.
Plenty of substitutes available:
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260659423706>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 12:39 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 22:42:23 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

>** But there's-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear....
>than some fucking pile of FAULTY digital shit that is over 20 years old.

The Lexicon PCM70 was first made in about 1988. That's 23 years.
Please adjust your abacus.

I just fixed a Digitech TSR-24 which was first made in 1995. I guess
16 years doesn't qualify. However, my Korg DSS-1 was first made in
1986, which is 25 years old, and certainly qualifies.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/Korg_DSS-1/>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 12:53 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 05 Jan 2011 12:39:58 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 22:42:23 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>>** But there's-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear.... than some
>>fucking pile of FAULTY digital shit that is over 20 years old.
>
> The Lexicon PCM70 was first made in about 1988. That's 23 years. Please
> adjust your abacus.
>
> I just fixed a Digitech TSR-24 which was first made in 1995. I guess 16
> years doesn't qualify. However, my Korg DSS-1 was first made in 1986,
> which is 25 years old, and certainly qualifies.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/Korg_DSS-1/>

I repaired one of these last year
http://www.vintagesynth.com/korg/ps3100.php

Replaced a couple edge connectors for the gate and voice cards.
Hard to beat the sound of one of these in the right hands.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:10 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Bill Palmer is a WANKER"

>>
>>"Arfuckwit Daily"

( snip the fool's pathetic drivel )

>>
>>** But there's-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear....
>>
>>
>>than some fucking pile of FAULTY digital shit that is over 20 years old.
>>
>>Get real - you stupid, pommy fuckhead.
>
> I don't know what your problem is,

** You one of the fuckwit troll's sockpuppets ?

..... Phil

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:17 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeff Liebermann is a DOPEY PRICK "

"Phil Allison"
>
>>** But there's-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear....
>>than some fucking pile of FAULTY digital shit that is over 20 years old.
>
> The Lexicon PCM70 was first made in about 1988. That's 23 years.
> Please adjust your abacus.

** Last time I looked - 23 was still a bigger number than 20.

Wot drugs is this IDIOT on ????

.... Phil

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:26 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:pel9i65jqskk80hcgscs0qkdi3b26oalrj@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 22:42:23 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>>** But there's-a nothing so lonesome, morbid or drear....
>>than some fucking pile of FAULTY digital shit that is over 20 years old.
>
> The Lexicon PCM70 was first made in about 1988. That's 23 years.
> Please adjust your abacus.
>
> I just fixed a Digitech TSR-24 which was first made in 1995. I guess
> 16 years doesn't qualify. However, my Korg DSS-1 was first made in
> 1986, which is 25 years old, and certainly qualifies.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/Korg_DSS-1/>
>
>

I still fix the odd AMS DMX and RMX units, and the mighty Lexicon 224XL.
Some of these must be well over 30 years old now.

http://www.advancedaudiorentals.com/products/details/productid/152

Gareth.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cf5e2373e39d7fc0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 8:36 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Baron" <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:ig060g$9f6$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Does anyone know where I can get service information for a Samsung LCD
> TV Model LE37R87BDX.
>
> Google gets lots of hits, but they are all dead ends in one way or
> another.
>
> Mine has just decided to switch itself off and sulk ! :-(
>
> Thanks.
> --
> Best Regards:
> Baron.

OK. Had a word with my mate, and he says that it's pretty much always power
supply caps on that model. He reckons that there's about four of 'em which
will all have blown their tops, and he says it's obvious as soon as you take
the back off. He also said that if it has been a bit iffy at starting up for
a while, then sometimes, it also twats the EEPROM, so if there are any
further issues after replacing the caps, that will be the cause.

Good luck with it ! d;~}

Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:00 pm
From: Baron

Arfa Daily Inscribed thus:

>
>
> "Baron" <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
> news:ig060g$9f6$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Does anyone know where I can get service information for a Samsung
>> LCD TV Model LE37R87BDX.
>>
>> Google gets lots of hits, but they are all dead ends in one way or
>> another.
>>
>> Mine has just decided to switch itself off and sulk ! :-(
>>
>> Thanks.
>> --
>> Best Regards:
>> Baron.
>
> Hi Baron
>
> I don't have access to service info for that tv unfortunately, but if
> it's like most LCDs, the dead set symptom is mostly down to psu
> trouble, and most are not that difficult to sort without schematics.
> Often, it's just caps, as I'm sure you've seen mentioned on here many
> times. You will often find the voltages marked on the psu boards. By
> connectors is a good place to look. Typically, there will be a standby
> supply of 3v3 and/or 5v. The main switched rails are usually some or
> all of 3v3, 5v, 12v, 24v for the backlight supply, and 33v for the
> tuner. Occasionally, the odd negative rail.
>
> If it does come down to psu, and you can't fix it, a replacement board
> is available here
>
> http://www.lcdpartsforyou.com/apps/webstore/products/show/940845
>
> for a very reasonable price. In the meantime, I will ask my mate who
> does a great deal of LCD tv repairs, if there is anything common on
> that model that he knows of.
>
> Arfa

Hi Arfa,
Thanks. I did pull the back off today and as you say the voltages are
marked on the PSU PCB. All the ones that I could identify I probed
without finding one that wasn't correct.

I did note that the red led in the middle of the power button seems to
have a weird flash sequence, so I suspect that its some kind of fault
code, a bit like the BIOS beep codes.

Once again I'm grateful for any help I can get.
Many Thanks.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:01 pm
From: Baron

hrhofmann@att.net Inscribed thus:

> On Jan 4, 4:14 pm, Baron <baron.nos...@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:
>> Does anyone know where I can get service information for a Samsung
>> LCD TV Model LE37R87BDX.
>>
>> Google gets lots of hits, but they are all dead ends in one way or
>> another.
>>
>> Mine has just decided to switch itself off and sulk ! :-(
>>
>> Thanks.
>> --
>> Best Regards:
>> Baron.
>
> Have you checked SAM"S PHotofacts?

No ! But I will. Thanks for the pointer.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:11 pm
From: Baron

Arfa Daily Inscribed thus:

There are no obvious signs of any damage. No smells, no burning, no
noise, not that I would have heard it over the program sound. Though
bad caps was the first thing that I suspected.

I'm going to take it into work with me tomorrow and have a look at the
power rails with a scope.

I'll report back. Take care.
Thanks again.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SMD 1 percent resistor markings - aide memoire?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c52c0c1e4db26587?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:30 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 5 Jan 2011 08:26:29 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

>Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
>news:et37i6thkakacbnbaub5c155hvtqa4nii7@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 3 Jan 2011 14:49:59 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> put
>> finger to keyboard and composed:
>>
>> >Confronted by resistor marking 75B translates as 5K9, anyone have an
>> >approximate ie 10 percent conversion technique?
>> >to avoid table lookup, eg
>>
>>http://talkingelectronics.com/projects/ResistorsMadeEasy/SMD-Resistors-EIA-
>Markings.html
>>
>> How about ...
>>
>> 100 x 10^(nn / 100)
>>
>> - Franc Zabkar

>
>I don't have a brain the size of a planet, mentally multiplying and adding
>integres
>is about my limit.

I would think that most people would have a calculator handy in their
workshop. Alternatively, why not just print out the chart, laminate
it, and hang it on your wall?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Luxman R117 receiver with oscillation
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/838f082c24ccbfd8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:33 pm
From: Tim Schwartz

On 1/4/2011 9:35 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> Both channels or just one channel?
>
> All speakers, or just one particular model?
>
> Does it occur with a purely resistive load? Does it occur when the amp is
> unloaded?
>
> Are you using oddball speaker cables? (I've seen pathological interaction.)
>
>
> Here's a thought... Could it be the amplifier rapidly switching between the
> high and low rails? Have you worked through the circuitry that "decides"
> when to make the switch? If the oscillation were at 2x or 4x the input
> frequency, that would strong evidence.
>
>
Hello,

I've only run the receiver on test equipment. Sine wave in, 8 ohm
non-inductive load (Dale NH250 resistors) and I'm looking at it on a
scope. Both channels, both outputs. The test set up is the one I
always use, and other amps do not have this issue. I have tried one
channel at a time with the same result. Speaker cables are 16 gauge
'zip cord'.

I've never left it up for more than a moment, because the current draw
is 8+ amps on the 120V line. It's a very high frequency oscillation,
but I can't really see the waveform to describe it, as I don't want to
blow up the amp. All semiconductors are original.

Thanks for your input,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 1:35 pm
From: Tim Schwartz

On 1/4/2011 9:27 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> Tim Schwartz<tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
> news:ifv7uc$jdc$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Hello and Happy New Year all,
>>
>> I've got a Luxman R117 receiver here that breaks into a wild
>> oscillation when the amp is pushed. I believe that it occurs when the
>> amp switches from the low B+ rails to the high B+ rails. Turning up the
>> treble control seems to make it worse, but that might be a red herring.
>>
>> I've changed all of the electrolytic capacitors in the tone circuit,
>> I've tested and substituted the 4 main filter caps. I've check the
>> suppression network on the output.I this this is some sort of decoupling
>> problem, but I've sent way too much time on this receiver. A friend who
>> worked on these when they were under warranty has looked it over as
>> well, and we're both stumped.
>>
>> Anyone in the group seen anything like this on a Luxman R117?
>>
>> Many thanks,
>> Tim Schwartz
>> Bristol Electronics
>
>
> Audio or ultrasonic osc?
> What happens with reduced rails via variac?
>
>
Hello Nigel,

It's an ultrasonic oscillation, and a lower line voltage does not help.

Thanks for your time,
Tim
Bristol Electronics

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:02 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Ouch! Full-power ultrasonic oscillation! I guess that pretty much rules out
all of my suggestions.

Of course, the fact that it oscillates on both channels strongly suggests
something common to both channels. I wouldn't completely rule out the
possibility that something is wrong with the B+ switching circuit.

Maybe you should convert the amp to power an ultrasonic cleaner!

"Tim Schwartz" <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
news:4D24E3C3.60301@bristolnj.com...
> On 1/4/2011 9:35 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> Both channels or just one channel?
>> All speakers, or just one particular model?
>> Does it occur with a purely resistive load? Does it occur when the amp is
>> unloaded?
>> Are you using oddball speaker cables? (I've seen pathological
interaction.)

>> Here's a thought... Could it be the amplifier rapidly switching between
the
>> high and low rails? Have you worked through the circuitry that "decides"
>> when to make the switch? If the oscillation were at 2x or 4x the input
>> frequency, that would strong evidence.

> Hello,

> I've only run the receiver on test equipment. Sine wave in, 8 ohm
> non-inductive load (Dale NH250 resistors) and I'm looking at it on a
> scope. Both channels, both outputs. The test set up is the one I
> always use, and other amps do not have this issue. I have tried one
> channel at a time with the same result. Speaker cables are 16 gauge
> 'zip cord'.

> I've never left it up for more than a moment, because the current draw
> is 8+ amps on the 120V line. It's a very high frequency oscillation,
> but I can't really see the waveform to describe it, as I don't want to
> blow up the amp. All semiconductors are original.

> Thanks for your input,
> Tim Schwartz
> Bristol Electronics

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 5 2011 2:05 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Sorry to come back... You didn't say whether this occurred when the outputs
weren't loaded.

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