http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* see this - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9f84968286753a?hl=en
* TVs compatible, from one continent to the next?? - 7 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38d677af192b8653?hl=en
* AA-sized conductor (fake battery) wanted - 11 messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/33083a4b1e46ccc0?hl=en
* PC PSU Component Value (TH1) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8484746dd62b9840?hl=en
* Microwave timer/clock 4 digit 7-segmnt display is out. Timer works fine. - 2
messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9d37ccd9c82199e?hl=en
* OT: Lidl and Aldi, UK at the moment - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f22b65a16216aa2?hl=en
* OT--Actual elecytronics repair question - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c7563aead5e20a6?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: see this
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9f84968286753a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 12 2011 10:27 pm
From: Sujatha Srinivasan
http://123maza.com/75/arts219/
==============================================================================
TOPIC: TVs compatible, from one continent to the next??
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38d677af192b8653?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 12 2011 4:35 pm
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
In article <RZSdnVykJLbA2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > But pray tell of a composite video studio which had RGB available from
> > anything other than a single camera, etc.
> You just keep showing more and more ignrance. All the studio cameras
> had RGB outputs.
I've already said that.
> The Vital Industries video switcher and the Squeeze
> Zoom had RGB inputs and outputs. The studios had cameras & monitors
> only. Master control did every thing else. Just admit that you are
> absolutely clueless about what was done, and how in a NTSC brodcast
> plant.
Sorry - forgot you were talking about some one horse news studio in the
sticks.
The studios I worked in had all the vision FX needed locally in the
studio. They were production studios.
The presentation area had their own too if they wished to use such things
for programme junctions, etc.
--
*What am I? Flypaper for freaks!?
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 2:01 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
In article <RZSdnV-kJLZN2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > I produced & directed a live newscast for a year in '73 & 74 at Ft.
> > > Greely, AK.
> >
> > Ah. News. Hence all the references to U-Matic and VHS as if they were
> > broadcast systems.
> BZZZZZZTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There was no video tape equipment
> at that station. If you would pay attention, or even better, if you had
> red that message of mine on the DOD Afrts website you might have a
> clue. Why would I be loading 16 mm & 35 mm, but not mention video tape?
You produced and directed a live newscast operation and loaded the film
yourself?
Change that one horse operation to a one donkey.
Sorry for thinking every broadcast operation would have VTR in the '70s. I
can only go by my own experience.
--
*Why are they called apartments, when they're all stuck together? *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 2:03 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
In article <RZSdnVykJLbA2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> You just keep showing more and more ignrance. All the studio cameras
> had RGB outputs. The Vital Industries video switcher and the Squeeze
> Zoom had RGB inputs and outputs. The studios had cameras & monitors
> only. Master control did every thing else. Just admit that you are
> absolutely clueless about what was done, and how in a NTSC brodcast
> plant.
So this means any studio vision mixer and switching systems were also RGB?
--
*If God dropped acid, would he see people?
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:46 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>
> In article <RZSdnVykJLbA2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > But pray tell of a composite video studio which had RGB available from
> > > anything other than a single camera, etc.
>
> > You just keep showing more and more ignrance. All the studio cameras
> > had RGB outputs.
>
> I've already said that.
>
> > The Vital Industries video switcher and the Squeeze
> > Zoom had RGB inputs and outputs. The studios had cameras & monitors
> > only. Master control did every thing else. Just admit that you are
> > absolutely clueless about what was done, and how in a NTSC brodcast
> > plant.
>
> Sorry - forgot you were talking about some one horse news studio in the
> sticks.
Yawn. Moron. It was at a 5 MW EIRP UHF station. There was no news
department at that station. They didn't need one. Two studios in a new
building, in Orlando Florida. Our electric bill was $45,000 just for
the transmitter.
> The studios I worked in had all the vision FX needed locally in the
> studio. They were production studios.
Good for them. Too bad they had to work with an ignorant asshole
like you. Most of our production was live programming. With our 3M
master router, the equipment could be used for production or live. It
could aslo be routed to the engineering office for troubleshooting. The
3M could have some routes locked to prevent people from accidently
changing them, or trying to disrupt a broadcast. The Comark transmitter
was on from six AM Monday morning, until midnight, Monday morning,
leaving six hours for routine maintenece.
Here is a satellite photo of the transmitter site. That tower is
over 1700 feet. There is a curtain FM antenna at the 1200 foot level
with five, 50 KW FM Orlando radio stations. It also had Ch 68 before
trhey built their own tower. There are a couple dozen private radio
systems there, as well.
> The presentation area had their own too if they wished to use such things
> for programme junctions, etc.
Presentation area? That sounds like the break room at a used car
lot.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:50 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>
> In article <RZSdnV-kJLZN2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > I produced & directed a live newscast for a year in '73 & 74 at Ft.
> > > > Greely, AK.
> > >
> > > Ah. News. Hence all the references to U-Matic and VHS as if they were
> > > broadcast systems.
>
> > BZZZZZZTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There was no video tape equipment
> > at that station. If you would pay attention, or even better, if you had
> > red that message of mine on the DOD Afrts website you might have a
> > clue. Why would I be loading 16 mm & 35 mm, but not mention video tape?
>
> You produced and directed a live newscast operation and loaded the film
> yourself?
Yes. At a military TV station. It wouldn't surprise me that you
don't know they exist.
> Change that one horse operation to a one donkey.
You're the donkey.
>
> Sorry for thinking every broadcast operation would have VTR in the '70s. I
> can only go by my own experience.
Good for you, but who gives a damn about your experience. That
station was scheduled to be updated when a jackass decided the GIs
didn't need TV. The equipment had been purchased, but ended up at the
AFRTS station in Iceland.
I will give you credit, though. You type very well for someone with
their head permanently up their ass.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:55 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>
> In article <RZSdnVykJLbA2rPQnZ2dnUVZ_tqdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > You just keep showing more and more ignrance. All the studio cameras
> > had RGB outputs. The Vital Industries video switcher and the Squeeze
> > Zoom had RGB inputs and outputs. The studios had cameras & monitors
> > only. Master control did every thing else. Just admit that you are
> > absolutely clueless about what was done, and how in a NTSC brodcast
> > plant.
>
> So this means any studio vision mixer and switching systems were also RGB?
Can't you read?
"The Vital Industries video switcher and the Squeeze Zoom had RGB
inputs and outputs." The pair did video mixing, framestore and special
effects. The composite output was hard routed to the 7 GHz STL from
Orlando to the transmitter in Orange City. Any tape delayed programming
was at the transmitter site, on a LaCarte system. The live feed was
monitored by the transmitter operator. and could be used at any time, if
needed.
I realize you've never seen the equipment, but your overall ignorance
is annoying. You're more like Phil with every post.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:59 am
From: Chuck
On Wed, 12 Jan 2011 14:14:25 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>>
>> I wonder just how available were the delay lines needed when NTSC was
>> introduced? They were quite an expensive component years later.
>
>
> NTSC delay lines for TV sets were about $3 for replacments in the mid
>'60s. I only saw one open delay line and one with physical damage in
>40+ years. The open delay line removed the luminanve signal, leaving
>only moving colored splotches on a black screen.
Delay line failure was fairly common on certain tube sets in the early
70s. Both the coil opening and, in other cases, the capacitor to
ground opening. Chuck
==============================================================================
TOPIC: AA-sized conductor (fake battery) wanted
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/33083a4b1e46ccc0?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 3:01 am
From: Eldor
Hello all NG
I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
(N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
"configurable voltage" battery.
I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
level. I don't think it exists.
Thanks for any help
== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 3:24 am
From: baron
Eldor Inscribed thus:
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>
> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at
> various voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at
> any voltage level. I don't think it exists.
>
> Thanks for any help
Whats wrong with a piece of rolled up cardboard ?
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 3:56 am
From: D Yuniskis
On 1/13/2011 4:01 AM, Eldor wrote:
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
Many handheld radios are equipped with exactly this sort of
thing (i.e., I have a couple of such radios, each with a pair
of die-cast "fake batteries" -- nothing more than 0 ohm spacers).
This allows different battery technologies to be used in the
radio.
You could fabricate one using a length of copper pipe with
suitable "end caps" soldered on.
> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
> voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
> level. I don't think it exists.
>
> Thanks for any help
== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 3:57 am
From: D Yuniskis
On 1/13/2011 4:24 AM, baron wrote:
> Eldor Inscribed thus:
>
>> Hello all NG
>>
>> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
>> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
>> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
>> "configurable voltage" battery.
>>
>> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>>
>> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at
>> various voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at
>> any voltage level. I don't think it exists.
>>
>> Thanks for any help
>
> Whats wrong with a piece of rolled up cardboard ?
Cardboard isn't a very good conductor at low voltages :>
== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 4:18 am
From: JW
On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 12:01:01 +0100 Eldor <eldor@example.com> wrote in
Message id: <4d2edb51$0$77558$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com>:
>Hello all NG
>
>I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
>so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
>(N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
>"configurable voltage" battery.
>
>I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>
>Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
>voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
>level. I don't think it exists.
>
>Thanks for any help
How about this:
http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-ES2-Dummy-Battery-Energy/dp/B0000C5RR8
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43271-REG/Quantum_Instruments_ES2_ES2_Energy_Saver.html
== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 4:50 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
> How about this:
> http://www.amazon.com/Quantum-ES2-Dummy-Battery-Energy/dp/B0000C5RR8
>
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43271-REG/Quantum_Instruments_ES2_ES2_Energy_Saver.html
These would obviously do what the OP wanted -- though the price is not
right. One might solder lengths of copper tubing (which you can get at hobby
stores) to metal disks -- but I don't know how sturdy they'd be.
WARNING! The following is off-topic -- but worth thinking about.
These dummy cells are supposed to be energy savers, because they let you use
only three AA alkaline cells in a four-cell flash. This works, because most
flashes operate correctly with nicad or NiMH cells, which are nominally
1.25V (rather than the 1.5V of alkalines).
However, this is a great way to waste money -- and not just the cost of the
dummy cell. With only three cells in the flash, you won't be able to
discharge them to as low a voltage as you would with four. That means you'll
have to discard them sooner, and you'll get less total energy out of them.
== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:08 am
From: PeterD
On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 04:57:10 -0700, D Yuniskis
<not.going.to.be@seen.com> wrote:
>On 1/13/2011 4:24 AM, baron wrote:
>> Eldor Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> Hello all NG
>>>
>>> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
>>> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
>>> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
>>> "configurable voltage" battery.
>>>
>>> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>>>
>>> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at
>>> various voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at
>>> any voltage level. I don't think it exists.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help
>>
>> Whats wrong with a piece of rolled up cardboard ?
>
>Cardboard isn't a very good conductor at low voltages :>
It is if you start with a piece of 18 AWG wire in the center!
== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:20 am
From: "Wild_Bill"
I was going to suggest searching for Dummy AA Battery, but then another
reply already has.
That Shack store used to supply those with some of their products.. you
might see if they can get them for you.
D Yuniskis' comment refers to a fairly common usage, the dummy cells first
became popular when AA nicads batteries became commonly available.
Many portable devices were capable of being powered by AA cells, and since
nicad cells were only 1.2V, it required 10 of 'em to operate a device where
8 non-rechargeable cells of 1.5V would be adequate.
So, the equipment manufacturers made the dummy AA "fillers" available to
give the user the option of using nicads or conventional cells.
I believe all of the dummies that I've seen have been simple single-piece
zinc/aluminum alloy diecast items, with round ends and a flat bar center
section to make them more lightweight and cheaper to produce (using less
metal).
In recent years, when I've needed such fillers, I've formed them out of
heavy gage solid copper wire.
I'll start with a close spiral forming a flat disc shape, then move away
from it and form another one (with a center pip) at the other end. A
straight section in the center, separating two round flat discs the same
length as a AA cell.
Any metal washers or discs of the correct diameter with a rigid center
separator could be soldered together faster than forming one from solid 12
ga wire.
Brass, copper or plated steel parts would be adequate, and the center
doesn't need to be cylindrical.
When I was making an external power adapter for a camera, 4 AA cells were
arranged in 2 lengthwise pairs (4 cells, 2x2), so I used some nylon rod the
same diameter as the cells. I used a plated brass disk for the (-) terminal,
and an end cap from a glass fuse for the (+) top terminal.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Eldor" <eldor@example.com> wrote in message
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size, so
> that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage (N-1 x
> 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>
> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
> voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
> level. I don't think it exists.
>
> Thanks for any help
== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:31 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
> WARNING! The following is off-topic -- but worth thinking about.
> These dummy cells are supposed to be energy savers, because they
> let you use only three AA alkaline cells in a four-cell flash. This works,
> because most flashes operate correctly with nicad or NiMH cells, which
> are nominally 1.25V (rather than the 1.5V of alkalines).
> However, this is a great way to waste money -- and not just the cost
> of the dummy cell. With only three cells in the flash, you won't be able
> to discharge them to as low a voltage as you would with four. That means
> you'll have to discard them sooner, and you'll get less total energy out
of
> them.
I just called Quantum, and found out that these actually aren't "energy
savers" at all. In fact, there might be circuitry in them (which is why
there are two models).
If you own a Canon flash (I assume Nikons are the same) and have read the
wretched manual, you know that, when using an external power pack, you must
leave the AA cells in the flash, because they continue to power the control
circuitry. It appears that going from 4 cells to 3 reduces the drain on the
cells, and presumably extends their life.
== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 6:17 am
From: Jim Yanik
Eldor <eldor@example.com> wrote in
news:4d2edb51$0$77558$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com:
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>
> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
> voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
> level. I don't think it exists.
>
> Thanks for any help
>
get a dowel of the same diameter as your batteries,cut to length of each
cell,cut a groove down the side,and put a copper wire in it,folded over and
curled around at the ends. if you wish,you can get fancy and epoxy the wire
down.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 6:17 am
From: Smitty Two
In article <4d2edb51$0$77558$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com>,
Eldor <eldor@example.com> wrote:
> Hello all NG
>
> I am looking for a fake AA battery, i.e. a conductor of the same size,
> so that I can put it in an AA battery holder and have a lower voltage
> (N-1 x 1.5V) . Actually I want multiple of them so that I can make a
> "configurable voltage" battery.
>
> I have looked around but I can't find it. Does anybody know any?
>
> Alternatively I could look for a battery which can be charged at various
> voltage levels, but it needs to hold a significant charge at any voltage
> level. I don't think it exists.
>
> Thanks for any help
As an alternative, Radio Shack and other suppliers have AA and AAA
battery holders, in say 3-cell and 4-cell configurations, with movable
contacts. This permits you to use different numbers of cells, or choose
between parallel and series configurations, just by slipping the stamped
metal contacts out of one groove and into another.
I designed a little gadget for a customer using a 4-cell AAA unit. I set
it up for 3-cell operation, and use the 4th slot for a small circuit
board. The boxes come with a cover and an integral ON-OFF switch. Pretty
handy. They're about $2 each at Radio Shack, and I pay about a $1 each
in 100 pc. qty. from Mouser, etc.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: PC PSU Component Value (TH1)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8484746dd62b9840?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 3:52 am
From: Bob Villa
Would anyone know the value or an equivalent for "TH1" on a CoolMax
PSU? (CA-400)
TIA
bob_v
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Microwave timer/clock 4 digit 7-segmnt display is out. Timer works fine.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9d37ccd9c82199e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 4:40 am
From: Geo
On Tue, 11 Jan 2011 23:21:09 -0500, "Angelo Campanella" <a.campanella@att.net>
wrote:
>
>"Spehro Pefhany" <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote in message news:jm3qi65p1idgetb0ttd7l79uk4fo7nhb82@4ax.com...
>>>That's just a regular old 0.3" seven-segment common-anode LED display,
>>>like the old Monsanto MANxxx displays.
>>>
>>>http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets2/31/319472_1.pdf
>
>All well and good. But I need a typical driver circuit diagram to probe voltages. It could be something as simple as a dropping resistor that's opened up, or a local filter capacitor that is shorted... I need a pin voltage map to find which voltage is missing.
If you look at this page:-
http://www.decodesystems.com/old-displays.html
There are two gifs from an HP appnote.
They shows suitable multiplexing circuits.
It is possible that your circuit has stopped multiplexing so only single
segments permanently on.
May be missing a clock signal.
--
Geo
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 4:47 am
From: "N_Cook"
Angelo Campanella <a.campanella@att.net> wrote in message
news:igj8v9$lgk$9@speranza.aioe.org...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:igh3nm$i55$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> > So what are some of the numbers on the chips inside and any numbers seen
> > on
> > the sides of the display/s ?
>
> I managed to pry out 7-segment chip digit #2 chip for review.
>
> It's a 19mm x 10mm 14 pin (3 pins not present) HP5082-7730 609 C.
>
> The face is a transparent matte plastic surface that seem to have red
solid
> state material for each of the 7 segments over the interior material.
>
> The back side, between pin rows, is pink transparent potting that covers
a
> PC board holding the 14 (really net 11) pins.
>
> Ange
>
>
Can you view the board enough to count the pins on each of the non-display
electronic chips?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Lidl and Aldi, UK at the moment
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f22b65a16216aa2?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 4:41 am
From: "N_Cook"
Aldi 20 GBP ultrasonic clreaner 500mL, 50W Delta GT 7810A.
Not had a use for one in decades, will it be another unused toy?
Lidl unknowingly has .3 x .45m vintage speaker grill, purporting to be
dining place-mats. About 30 percent open weave ( not print) neutral
coloured, black cream and grey in a sort of art deco slightly wavy ,broken
linear pattern, 1GBP a sheet
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:10 am
From: PeterD
On Thu, 13 Jan 2011 12:41:28 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:
>Aldi 20 GBP ultrasonic clreaner 500mL, 50W Delta GT 7810A.
>Not had a use for one in decades, will it be another unused toy?
>
>Lidl unknowingly has .3 x .45m vintage speaker grill, purporting to be
>dining place-mats. About 30 percent open weave ( not print) neutral
>coloured, black cream and grey in a sort of art deco slightly wavy ,broken
>linear pattern, 1GBP a sheet
>
I'm either supposed to be excited because you ran across something
interesting, or be confused. Actually, I'm at the latter state right
now, so if it is something cool how about a couple of pictures on one
of the image hosting sites?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT--Actual elecytronics repair question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1c7563aead5e20a6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:42 am
From: "Wild_Bill"
I might be tempted to try an external switch to find out what the circuit
requires for more predictable/reliable operation.
The rubbery buttons' pads are conductive, obviously, but rarely low ohms in
resistance. With a common momentary switch and a 1k (or 200, 470 etc) series
resistor, the unit may operate just fine.
Then check the resistance of the existing switch to see if it's near the
improvised resistance that works well.
The rubbery switches' conductive pads generally increase dramatically with
use. Looking at aged conductive pads, they often develop a glazed-looking
surface from being pressed repeatedly.
I often scuff them very lightly with very fine abrasive (approx 600 grit) or
one of those fiberglas pen scuffing tools, but very lightly.. just enough to
remove the glaze from the pad.
The resistance comes back down, and the conductive pads work fine until they
get glazed again.. many uses later (like keyboard keys, IR remote buttons
etc).
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.01.11.19.31.34@lmao.lol.lol...
> Yaesu VX-5R tri-band hand held. Momentary contact power on/off button.
>
> I've owned this radio for 9 or 10 years. Recently I have to push several
> times on this rubber on/off button to get the radio to come on. But it
> always takes just one touch to turn it off. And the radio works fine
> otherwise including all the other buttons. Just have to play around
> pressing the button maybe three/four/five times. Sometimes it powers on
> when pressed once! But always shuts off with just one easy push.
> This indicates to me that it's not a problem with button contact but
> rather a microprocessor problem.
>
> Discuss.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 13 2011 5:59 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> I might be tempted to try an external switch to find out what the circuit
> requires for more predictable/reliable operation.
>
> The rubbery buttons' pads are conductive, obviously, but rarely low ohms in
> resistance. With a common momentary switch and a 1k (or 200, 470 etc) series
> resistor, the unit may operate just fine.
> Then check the resistance of the existing switch to see if it's near the
> improvised resistance that works well.
>
> The rubbery switches' conductive pads generally increase dramatically with
> use. Looking at aged conductive pads, they often develop a glazed-looking
> surface from being pressed repeatedly.
>
> I often scuff them very lightly with very fine abrasive (approx 600 grit) or
> one of those fiberglas pen scuffing tools, but very lightly.. just enough to
> remove the glaze from the pad.
> The resistance comes back down, and the conductive pads work fine until they
> get glazed again.. many uses later (like keyboard keys, IR remote buttons
> etc).
I used to repair Commodore 64 computers. The keyboards had the same
type of switches. I would clean them with Isopropyl alcohol, then wipe
them across a piece of cloth (like Denim) to remove the dead surface.
You could see how much was removed, because live surface didn't leave a
streak on the cloth.
--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.
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