sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Two phases or not?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:22 pm
From: Jamie

Phil Allison wrote:
> "Jamie" = radio ham KA1LPA
>
>
>
>>And please don't use amateur operators as a signification of
>>stupidity..
>
>
>
> ** Shame that so many radio hams on usenet prove themselves to be the
> biggest trolls, trouble makers and blow hard bullshit artists ever.
>
> Especially YOU.
>
> Damn shame about that.
>
>
>
>
> .... Phil
>
>
>

Making assumptions like that about some one you know absolutely
nothing about, isn't very good character on your part. It just goes to
show how much of an ignoramus one could be, you for example.

Now, I understand your dilemma. I am forced to communication with
people of your type, every day. That does not mean I have to like it
how ever, it's a requirement I must adhere to.

Could it be these so called "Trouble Makers" as you call them are just
making you feel like you have too much competition ? I am sorry that
"we Amateur Operators don't kneel down and kiss your feet".

Jamie

P.S.
It's not nice trying to make yourself look better by devaluing others.

hint.

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:36 pm
From: "Michael Kennedy"

>MIke et al
>
>The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so many of
>the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise that different
>phases by definition have timing differences. Simply reversing the way
>of using a phase does not make it a different phase. The timing stays
>the same.
>

Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse difference
is?? It is timing like you said..

Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
saying.

http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:41 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jamie wrote:
>
> Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> > Having a couple of decades experience in servicing/repair of commercial
> > and consumer electronic equipment and additional training and experience
> > in industrial site experience (both electrical and electronic circuits),
> > I have never seen descriptions or designations stated as 2-phase, for
> > any type of transformer.
> >
> > Or: Hey bub, you gotta single-phase-in, 2-phase-out transformer?
> >
> > But I have seen and used transformers with multiple taps, on both pri
> > and sec sides.
> > The number of taps on either side of a single-phase transformer don't
> > change the output(s) to 2-phase, regardless of how many there are (pri
> > or sec side).
> > Monophase sounds odd, like it's not related to electricity.
> > How about uniphase? Yep, found an example (and diphase) used in a book c
> > 1905.
> > Electricity In Every-day Life Edwin J. Houston PhD. You know that's
> > gonna be interesting just because it was authored by a PhD.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > WB
> > .............
>
> You still lose:
>
> You don't seem to know the difference between circuits and phase
> angles..
>
> Typical residential hack electrician..
>
> I hope you don't ever decide to move in to electronics, you'd be in a
> world of shit.

Still trying to find people to join you?

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:43 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jamie wrote:
>
> Phil Allison wrote:
>
> > "Jamie" = radio ham KA1LPA
> >
> >>Fred McKenzie = radio ham K4DII
> >>
> >>
> >>>I have a flashlight powered by a two-phase system - two D cells. It
> >>>certainly fits your criteria. Its power system can also be considered
> >>>AC, since DC is just AC with frequency equal to zero.
> >>>
> >>>Facts are no deterrent to a persistent troll!
> >>>
> >>>Fred
> >>
> >>What are you a fucking moron?
> >
> >
> >
> > ** Yep - Fred is another radio ham.
> >
> > K4DII
> > Frederick M. McKenzie
> > 2867 EPP Bivings Drive
> > Titusville, Fl 32796
> >
> >
> >
> > ..... Phil
> >
> >
> >
> Look Phil, I may not agree with avery thing you say, but at least
> I am supporting you in this debate...
>
> And please don't use amateur operators as a signification of
> stupidity..
>
> You can't fix stupid, It has no classification.

Your parents could have prevented stupid.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Michael Kennedy wrote:
>
> >MIke et al
> >
> >The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so many of
> >the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise that different
> >phases by definition have timing differences. Simply reversing the way
> >of using a phase does not make it a different phase. The timing stays
> >the same.
> >
>
> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse difference
> is?? It is timing like you said..
>
> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
> saying.
>
> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm

By your definiton, a 'Push-Pull Output Transformer' is two phase.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 10:17 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/26/2011 7:45 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

> Michael Kennedy wrote:
>
>>> MIke et al
>>>
>>> The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so
>>> many of the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise
>>> that different phases by definition have timing differences.
>>> Simply reversing the way of using a phase does not make it a
>>> different phase. The timing stays the same.
>>
>> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse difference
>> is?? It is timing like you said..
>>
>> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
>> saying.
>>
>> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm
>
> By your definiton, a 'Push-Pull Output Transformer' is two phase.

It IS two phase; that's the whole point. (At least on the primary side.)

I'd be interested in your explanation of how it isn't ...

(I think my example was a little more clear: look at a center-tapped
transformer used as the input to a push-pull stage and tell me there
aren't two phases there.)

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 11:58 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

Right.. let us all know when you find that 2-phase appliance/machine motor
for your 2-phase electrical service.

Ya Ignorant and apparently illiterate Cunt.. FOAD

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:FP30p.3113$Y8.1462@newsfe06.iad...
> Wild_Bill wrote:
>
>> Having a couple of decades experience in servicing/repair of commercial
>> and consumer electronic equipment and additional training and experience
>> in industrial site experience (both electrical and electronic circuits),
>> I have never seen descriptions or designations stated as 2-phase, for any
>> type of transformer.
>>
>> Or: Hey bub, you gotta single-phase-in, 2-phase-out transformer?
>>
>> But I have seen and used transformers with multiple taps, on both pri and
>> sec sides.
>> The number of taps on either side of a single-phase transformer don't
>> change the output(s) to 2-phase, regardless of how many there are (pri or
>> sec side).
>> Monophase sounds odd, like it's not related to electricity.
>> How about uniphase? Yep, found an example (and diphase) used in a book c
>> 1905.
>> Electricity In Every-day Life Edwin J. Houston PhD. You know that's gonna
>> be interesting just because it was authored by a PhD.
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> WB
>> .............
>
> You still lose:
>
> You don't seem to know the difference between circuits and phase
> angles..
>
> Typical residential hack electrician..
>
> I hope you don't ever decide to move in to electronics, you'd be in a
> world of shit.
>
>

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 12:29 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> On 1/26/2011 7:45 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>
> > Michael Kennedy wrote:
> >
> >>> MIke et al
> >>>
> >>> The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so
> >>> many of the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise
> >>> that different phases by definition have timing differences.
> >>> Simply reversing the way of using a phase does not make it a
> >>> different phase. The timing stays the same.
> >>
> >> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse difference
> >> is?? It is timing like you said..
> >>
> >> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
> >> saying.
> >>
> >> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm
> >
> > By your definiton, a 'Push-Pull Output Transformer' is two phase.
>
> It IS two phase; that's the whole point. (At least on the primary side.)

Then a Williamson 'Ultra linear' output transformer is four phase?

<http://www.pmillett.com/file_downloads/stancor_ul_schematics.pdf>

See page 4 for a sample schmatic.

> I'd be interested in your explanation of how it isn't ...
>
> (I think my example was a little more clear: look at a center-tapped
> transformer used as the input to a push-pull stage and tell me there
> aren't two phases there.)

Then look at a Williamson 'Ultra linear' output transformer and tell
me there are four phases.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sharp Aquos LC32LE700 - Blinking LED code question...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5f79a9e11db7a7c3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:19 pm
From: benitos

On 26 jan, 14:47, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 10:11:55 -0800, benitos wrote:
> > When putting power to the TV , got a blinking power LED every second.
>
> > Here is what I did ;
>
> > -unplug the TV
> > -Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time -Plug TV
>
> > TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>
> > When turning off with power button , POWER & OPC Led blinked 2 times
> > togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>
> > What does this code mean ?
>
> Unplug, wait 30 seconds. Press and hold power button on tv. Plug the tv
> in, count to ten then release power button. Then turn the tv on. Let me
> know what happens.
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse- Masquer le texte des messages précédents -
>
> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -

Nothing happen , just the blinking power LED

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:57 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 19:19:18 -0800, benitos wrote:

> On 26 jan, 14:47, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 10:11:55 -0800, benitos wrote:
>> > When putting power to the TV , got a blinking power LED every second.
>>
>> > Here is what I did ;
>>
>> > -unplug the TV
>> > -Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time -Plug TV
>>
>> > TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>>
>> > When turning off with power button , POWER & OPC Led blinked 2 times
>> > togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>>
>> > What does this code mean ?
>>
>> Unplug, wait 30 seconds. Press and hold power button on tv. Plug the tv
>> in, count to ten then release power button. Then turn the tv on. Let me
>> know what happens.
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse- Masquer le texte des
>> messages précédents -
>>
>> - Afficher le texte des messages précédents -
>
> Nothing happen , just the blinking power LED

Find a service manual with maybe a trouble shooting flow chart. A factory
reset isn't the fix obviously.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Schematic or Manual for Proton D940
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/72697c8f492bd3e2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:23 pm
From: danube

Hello folks,

I have a Proton D940 vintage receiver from the 1980's that stopped
working on me and I would like to repair it. First step would seem to
me to get a manual for it.
I did a google search and the last post to come up with a relevant hit
is from 2000! That does not bode well for my expectations from the
following question:

Does anyone here have, or know where I can get, a service manual,
including schematics, for a Proton D940 receiver? Come on, someone's
got to have *one* of
these right?

*Please* let me know if you have one you could scan and post or copy
for me. I'll pay a fair price for the effort.

Thanks.

Dan

p.s. No Fotofacts either.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:27 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com>,
aemeijers <aemeijers@att.net> wrote:

> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.

I don't know what "wire base" means. I don't think that's standard
terminology. But anyway, have you tried bulbs.com or one of those other
"we sell every light bulb known to man" type places?

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:43 pm
From: Hell Toupee

On 1/26/2011 6:42 PM, aemeijers wrote:

> I'm no artist or painter- where would I get that in small quantity at a
> decent price? I was just thinking blue nail polish or model paint of the
> 'candy' variety.
>

Hit the tackle department of a fairly decent sporting goods supplier.
You'll find small bottles of paint for jigs and flies. That's what I've
used to touch up Christmas light bulbs.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:50 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Smitty Two wrote:
>
> In article <PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com>,
> aemeijers <aemeijers@att.net> wrote:
>
> > Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> > tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> > Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> > whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> > T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> > Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> > too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> > my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> > Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> > what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
> >
> > And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> I don't know what "wire base" means.

Like the old NE-2 lamp. Wire leads, no base.
<http://www.donsbulbs.com/bulbs/g632/ib/a1a-ne2-a1a2~usa.jpg>

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 8:01 pm
From: Reed

On 1/26/11 8:27 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
> In article<PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com>,
> aemeijers<aemeijers@att.net> wrote:
>
>> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
>> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
>> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
>> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
>> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
>> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
>> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
>> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
>> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
>> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>>
>> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> I don't know what "wire base" means. I don't think that's standard
> terminology. But anyway, have you tried bulbs.com or one of those other
> "we sell every light bulb known to man" type places?

see
http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_42901

for clear T1.25 wire base bulbs

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 8:07 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Jan 26, 10:01 pm, Reed <re...@rmi.net> wrote:
> On 1/26/11 8:27 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > In article<PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidn...@giganews.com>,
> > aemeijers<aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
>
> >> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> >> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> >> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> >> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> >> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> >> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> >> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> >> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> >> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> >> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> >> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> > I don't know what "wire base" means. I don't think that's standard
> > terminology. But anyway, have you tried bulbs.com or one of those other
> > "we sell every light bulb known to man" type places?
>
> seehttp://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_...
>
> for clear T1.25 wire base bulbs- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Blue felt-tipped permanent marker applied several times to the bulb
while it is lit so speed up drying of the felt-tipped ink.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 8:10 pm
From: aemeijers

On 1/26/2011 10:27 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
> In article<PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com>,
> aemeijers<aemeijers@att.net> wrote:
>
>> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
>> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
>> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
>> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
>> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
>> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
>> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
>> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
>> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
>> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>>
>> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> I don't know what "wire base" means. I don't think that's standard
> terminology. But anyway, have you tried bulbs.com or one of those other
> "we sell every light bulb known to man" type places?

Yeah, I found the clears several places, usually at a high markup.
Allied was cheapest, and delivered overnight. M-C had the blue bulb
covers. (which a year ago before rice-rocket craze died out, every auto
parts store had.) But they don't have the 1 1/4 size.

'wire base' or 'wire terminal' was what the online catalogs called what
I knew as grain-of-wheat bulbs, a glass bulb with the long wires
trailing from it. Used to be dirt-common as radio dial lights and such,
and every radio shack had a whole multi-bin drawer of them. Mostly
replaced by LEDs in modern technology- I have a little plastic drawer
full of 5v LEDs from my PC-rebuilding days.

--
aem sends...

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 8:31 pm
From: aemeijers

On 1/26/2011 11:01 PM, Reed wrote:
> On 1/26/11 8:27 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
>> In article<PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com>,
>> aemeijers<aemeijers@att.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
>>> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
>>> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
>>> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
>>> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
>>> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
>>> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
>>> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
>>> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
>>> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>>>
>>> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>>
>> I don't know what "wire base" means. I don't think that's standard
>> terminology. But anyway, have you tried bulbs.com or one of those other
>> "we sell every light bulb known to man" type places?
>
> see
> http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_Description.asp_Q_intProductID_E_42901
>
> for clear T1.25 wire base bulbs

Appreciate it, but that is 4x what Allied charges.

--
aem sends...

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ESR meter built in seconds
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43a6d9df89036edc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 7:28 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"George Herold is a real Pain "
>>
> > In other words... If the driving frequency is high enough that the
> > capacitive reactance is essentially zero, then the net impedance is
> > essentially the ESR. Right?
>
> ** Errr - yep.
>
> But it ain't that simple.
>
> One has to examine the actual impedance curves for typical electros to see
> what the game is - the curve is like no other kind of cap.
>
> Think of Q factors of circa 0.05 and ESRs that way exceed the calculated
> impedance at 100kHz.
>

Nice tip thanks Phil. The 100uF electro's I have came out with ~0.15
ohms of ESR, using your method.
I've never seen an impedance curve for an electro cap. Do you have a
link or know which manufacturer's website I might check?

** Found this PDF on the net - seems to have lots good info on the humble
electro.

http://www.epcos.com/web/generator/Web/Sections/ProductCatalog/Capacitors/AluminumElectrolytic/PDF/PDF__GeneralTechnicalInformation,property=Data__en.pdf;/PDF_GeneralTechnicalInformation.pdf

See page 15, figs 13 and 14.

One can easily see the dramatic effect temperature has on the impedance
minima or ESR - electros work better when they are HOT !!

Also, the minimum impedance value ( same as the ESR ) occurs around 50 -
100kHz and is quite broad - the higher the ESR and the lower the temp the
broader.

At 20C the 47uF, 350 volt electro in fig 14 exhibits a deep impedance minima
( essentially 0.4 ohms resistive ) from 10kHz to 2 MHz.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Video - Funniest Golf Shot Ever???
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a17e9671ffee9a4e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 8:37 pm
From: RoadRunner

http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2011/01/greatest-golf-shot-ever/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 9:14 pm
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

I wrote:
>> Instead of the doomed
>> national health plan they use in the UK,

Arfa Daily wrote:

> Meaning what, exactly ... ?

Until the UK figures out a way to separate the National Health from the general
budget, it's going to be "asuterity"'ed into nothingness.

Since it is funded from the same fund as everything else, and has no
competition, it just spends and spends and provides less services as money
dries up.

For example, according to a large cancer support organization around 90% of
all cancer patients EVER see an oncologist (cancer specialist). This is up
from less than 80 10 years ago.

I'll give you an example I read in Reader's Digest. Currently when a tube
gets partially used it is impossible to squeeze the medicine out. Someone
in the UK invented a new tube with a knob on the bottom, costing about 1.5 UKP
each. This was going to save the national health millions.

My wife goes to the "dollar store" and buys a set of plastic clamps which
do the same thing. We use them for toothpaste, but you could use them
for anything in a tube. If you had them made to order and shipped in bulk,
they would cost a few pence.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Desk Lamp Mercury
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/298b36c6025d19e8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 10:45 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com

I got a new desk lamp from Staples and it has a warning about mercury. THe
fluorescent bulb that came with it has the same warning. Am I right in
assuming th emercury refered to the SBCFL? THe switch rotates on the same
axis as the buld screws in, so given the gooseneck, I have no reason to
believe the switch works with mercury (ie, gravity). Am I right?

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 11:35 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/26/2011 10:45 PM vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com spake thus:

> I got a new desk lamp from Staples and it has a warning about mercury. THe
> fluorescent bulb that came with it has the same warning. Am I right in
> assuming th emercury refered to the SBCFL? THe switch rotates on the same
> axis as the buld screws in, so given the gooseneck, I have no reason to
> believe the switch works with mercury (ie, gravity). Am I right?

Dang, I hope so. As far as I know, the only kinds of mercury switches in
common use, aside from speciality ones, are ordinary household light
switches. They're talking about the CFL.

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 26 2011 11:49 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

One of the most common mercury switches in households for generations, has
been the mercury switch located in wall heating system thermostats.. very
well sealed in glass that used to be considerably thicker than CFL tube
glass (yes, I've broken the t-stat ones to get the mercury, but that was
older ones).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4d411fe2$0$15451$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
>
> Dang, I hope so. As far as I know, the only kinds of mercury switches in
> common use, aside from speciality ones, are ordinary household light
> switches. They're talking about the CFL.
>
>

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 12:02 am
From: "Phil Allison"

<vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com>
>
>I got a new desk lamp from Staples and it has a warning about mercury. THe
> fluorescent bulb that came with it has the same warning. Am I right in
> assuming th emercury refered to the SBCFL? THe switch rotates on the same
> axis as the buld screws in, so given the gooseneck, I have no reason to
> believe the switch works with mercury (ie, gravity). Am I right?>
>
> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist

** Mercury switches and even Mercury thermometers have been banned from sale
in most places for a long time.

However, fluoro lamps using tiny amounts of Mercury (allegedly 5 to 20mg
each ) are still allowed.

As are swordfish.

Dunno about Columbia.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Another PbF indicator?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7662e5d9f71b71bc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 12:16 am
From: "N_Cook"

So I reckon the ul.com pcb classification is this test
http://www.ipc.org/4.0_Knowledge/4.1_Standards/test/2.4.8.3a.pdf
with 10 second solder float for the heating stage
Then passing 260 degree C for leaded solder use
270 deg C for PbF
288 deg C for high spec like polyimide/ N7000-1 /Pyralux

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