sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Two phases or not? - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
* Pet hates ? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
* Furby repair - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/52327fce64c5efb2?hl=en
* Advance SG81 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a50328eb565a59d1?hl=en
* switching on ibm pc 300gl psu? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cb46b8e6671ac7bc?hl=en
* ESR meter built in seconds - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43a6d9df89036edc?hl=en
* Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs. - 5 messages, 5
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
* Desk Lamp Mercury - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/298b36c6025d19e8?hl=en
* Schematic or Manual for Proton D940 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/72697c8f492bd3e2?hl=en
* Broken CFL - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
* Nickel plated polyimide--where to get? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bee83d05dbdcb50?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Two phases or not?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 12:29 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
> On 1/26/2011 7:45 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>
> > Michael Kennedy wrote:
> >
> >>> MIke et al
> >>>
> >>> The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so
> >>> many of the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise
> >>> that different phases by definition have timing differences.
> >>> Simply reversing the way of using a phase does not make it a
> >>> different phase. The timing stays the same.
> >>
> >> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse difference
> >> is?? It is timing like you said..
> >>
> >> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
> >> saying.
> >>
> >> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm
> >
> > By your definiton, a 'Push-Pull Output Transformer' is two phase.
>
> It IS two phase; that's the whole point. (At least on the primary side.)

Then a Williamson 'Ultra linear' output transformer is four phase?

<http://www.pmillett.com/file_downloads/stancor_ul_schematics.pdf>

See page 4 for a sample schmatic.

> I'd be interested in your explanation of how it isn't ...
>
> (I think my example was a little more clear: look at a center-tapped
> transformer used as the input to a push-pull stage and tell me there
> aren't two phases there.)

Then look at a Williamson 'Ultra linear' output transformer and tell
me there are four phases.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 2:16 am
From: JW

On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:23:25 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.01.27.00.22.07@lmao.lol.lol>:

>On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 11:19:54 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:
>
>
>> "Fred McKenzie"
>>>
>>> "Phil Allison"
>>>
>>>> Sine waves of the exact same frequency and amplitude can ONLY differ
>>>> only in
>>>> phase.
>>>>
>>>> A 180 degree phase difference is as good as any other.
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a flashlight powered by a two-phase system - two D cells.
>>
>>
>> ** Nuh - that is DC, you pathetic troll.
>>
>>
>>> It certainly fits your criteria.
>>
>>
>> ** Nuh - not one of them.
>>
>>
>>> Its power system can also be considered AC, since DC is just AC with
>>> frequency equal to zero.
>>
>>
>> ** Just like white is the same as black with no lights on.
>>
>>
>>> Facts are no deterrent to a persistent troll!
>>
>>
>> ** Just like reality is no deterrent to a lunatic.
>>
>> Did someone leave the door open at the asylum today ??
>
>I'd make a comment here but it is against my new year's resolution.

My New Year's resolution was an easy one this year. Make no New Year's
resolutions ever again.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 2:28 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

JW wrote:
>
> On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 00:23:25 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.01.27.00.22.07@lmao.lol.lol>:
>
> >On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 11:19:54 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:
> >
> >
> >> "Fred McKenzie"
> >>>
> >>> "Phil Allison"
> >>>
> >>>> Sine waves of the exact same frequency and amplitude can ONLY differ
> >>>> only in
> >>>> phase.
> >>>>
> >>>> A 180 degree phase difference is as good as any other.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I have a flashlight powered by a two-phase system - two D cells.
> >>
> >>
> >> ** Nuh - that is DC, you pathetic troll.
> >>
> >>
> >>> It certainly fits your criteria.
> >>
> >>
> >> ** Nuh - not one of them.
> >>
> >>
> >>> Its power system can also be considered AC, since DC is just AC with
> >>> frequency equal to zero.
> >>
> >>
> >> ** Just like white is the same as black with no lights on.
> >>
> >>
> >>> Facts are no deterrent to a persistent troll!
> >>
> >>
> >> ** Just like reality is no deterrent to a lunatic.
> >>
> >> Did someone leave the door open at the asylum today ??
> >
> >I'd make a comment here but it is against my new year's resolution.
>
> My New Year's resolution was an easy one this year. Make no New Year's
> resolutions ever again.

I made that one, over 30 years ago. :)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 3:12 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I didn't check the link.. the thread topic was electrical power.

I assume some of the fuckwits in this thread would like to argue that the
outputs of a simple stereo amp (L+/gnd and R+/gnd), with a center channel
(L+ and R+) would be 3-phase.

Still.. it's not electrical power.

A Simple, Practical and Sensible approach to the difference between
electrical circuits, and electronic circuits is:

Electrical power circuits perform work (mechanical energy, heat etc).

Electronic circuits are for relaying information (data, sensing, control of
electrical devices, communications).

I'm done here.. another wasted minute of my remaining time isn't worthwhile
to me.
Have yer fun.

As I suggested in my first reply in this thread, this issue is simply food
(a drug?) for the dimwitted that have nothing better to do.

I can only imagine the good efforts that could have been attributed to real
issues worldwide.. with the time/effort that's been wasted by trillions of
minutes of worthless usenet replies and pissing contests.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote in message
news:_4idndEDCOOWdd3QnZ2dnVY3goWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
> >MIke et al
>>
>>The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so many of
>>the responders simply don't stick to the basic premise that different
>>phases by definition have timing differences. Simply reversing the way
>>of using a phase does not make it a different phase. The timing stays
>>the same.
>>
>
> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse
> difference is?? It is timing like you said..
>
> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get what I am
> saying.
>
> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm
>

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 10:19 am
From: Bob AZ

> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a  phanse difference
> is?? It is timing like you said.

Mike

Nice weblink. Someone went to a lot of work to do the programming and
all for it. When I had phase and rotation and the resultants presented
to me a long time ago it was on a blackboard by a math person. Took a
while to sink in with all of us in the class.

I do undrstand what a phase difference is. I have been tripped up lots
of times by it. One time that comes to my mind was when I was working
in a 3 phase box and simply couldn't get a there phase subpanel to
give me three hot legs as I expected. I found out that a major airport
used nothing but 3 phase panels for distribution but only distributed
two phases of the three. They used the vacant pole in the panel for
growth. There was even a mix of 110 and 220 volts. Thus the panel had
one phase on the first pole and the other poles were the same phase.
Cost the US government a few thousand which was recovered from the
municipality with penalties.

And to "add" to this discussion I am filtering the responses by my
personal criteria. There are 3 ways of doing anything. The adult way,
the child way and the infant way. Take a look at some of the
responses. Civil and not so civil. Our leaders thrust on "civility" is
long over due.

Bob AZ

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 2:26 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <slrnik1vml.5bn.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:
> Until the UK figures out a way to separate the National Health from the
> general budget, it's going to be "asuterity"'ed into nothingness.

> Since it is funded from the same fund as everything else, and has no
> competition, it just spends and spends and provides less services as
> money dries up.

Am I right in saying you consider the various private schemes in the US
the model of efficiency?

The only way to fund a system designed for everyone - rich or poor - is
out of general taxation.

Personally, I've been lucky in never needing much in the way of expensive
medical treatment - yet - but what dealings I have had with our NHS have
been favourable. Although it does take some time to get into the system if
it's not urgent. In some ways, no bad thing.
But I've got friends and relations who have needed major treatment. And
all of those are grateful to the NHS.

I have private insurance for my dog. And car. And house. None of those
provides the sort of perfect service those who are opposed to a state
system say they do.

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 2:49 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> Am I right in saying you consider the various private schemes in the US
> the model of efficiency?

No. You are completely off base. I think ObamaCare is a disaster. It goes
too far in requirments and too short in providing things. Because it now
limits the amount a company can raise premiums to 30% several people I
know have had their payments raised 29.9%.

>
> The only way to fund a system designed for everyone - rich or poor - is
> out of general taxation.

Agreed. But it's how it is spent. I disagree with the whole NHS system.
And no, I am not in the US. I am in Israel which has a much better system.

As for your relatives, I hope they don't have cancer. If they live in a big
city such as London, there is a 95% chance they will see a specialist ONCE.
In the country the chance goes down to 50% or less.

Second or recurring visits are also not as frequent, even in London.

I did not make this up, here is some historical data:

<http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1116372/>

You can get current data from:

<http://www.macmillan.org.uk/>

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 3:06 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <slrnik2j7d.po8.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:
> As for your relatives, I hope they don't have cancer. If they live in a
> big city such as London, there is a 95% chance they will see a
> specialist ONCE. In the country the chance goes down to 50% or less.

A pal of mine has had bowel cancer and also has prostrate cancer. Lives in
London. This is quite the reverse of his experience.

> Second or recurring visits are also not as frequent, even in London.

> I did not make this up, here is some historical data:

> <http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1116372/>

Historical being the pertinent point - it's quoting data gathered over 20
years ago.

> You can get current data from:

> <http://www.macmillan.org.uk/>

I'm not saying things can't be improved. Especially with unlimited money.
But nothing is ever perfect. All one can reasonably expect is the best
compromise.

--
*I must always remember that I'm unique, just like everyone else. *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 5:01 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Health Care

I could spend several posts discussing this. However...

The logical way to do it would be to throw out the insurance companies and
tax everyone -- individuals and employers -- specifically for health care.
People could then select whatever doctor or hospital they wanted (thus
encouraging competition), and the government would pay the bill. There would
be a deductible for both treatment and medications proportional to an
individual's income.

Of course, such a system would become an open feeding trough for hospitals
and physicians. (Note the amount of Medicare abuse and fraud.) The truly
tough part of such a system is... How do you regulate costs? Regulation
/necessarily/ includes denial of treatment (ie, rationing) when a patient is
"too old", or the condition so severe that it wouldn't be worth the cost.

If the US were truly a "Christian" country, this problem wouldn't exist.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Furby repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/52327fce64c5efb2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 3:40 am
From: Bob Villa

On Jan 26, 8:46 pm, Fred <nob...@home.com> wrote:
> Bob Villa <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in news:cb763523-6665-4117-a226-
> 996abbb3f...@v31g2000pri.googlegroups.com:
>
> > It also sounds like you're more of a mechanic than a etech on this
> > one. ;-)
>
> Actually, my specialty is metrology.  My last serious job, before moving
> on to the electronic organ/keyboard business in the late 1980's, was as a
> GS-11 Electronic Technician at the Charleston Naval Shipyard's Metrology
> Laboratory.
>
> Since 1964, when I joined the Navy to avoid being murdered for the
> military contractors profits in Vietnam, I've been in military
> electronics most of the time.  In 1977-79, I spent 2.5 years building a
> metrology laboratory at Iranian Air Force Headquarters, Tehran for a US
> contractor.  I've been back to the MidEast many times for our military
> and others.
>
> Think I can qualify as an electronics technician?  I taught them at
> Sumter Area Technical College, Sumter, SC, for 7 years from '71 to '78.  
> Great fun if you don't need money to live on.

I didn't say you weren't qualified...I was rating the specific repair
ability required. You need not get your leotards in a bunch.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 8:49 am
From: Sofa Slug

On 1/26/2011 11:04 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 07:01:30 +0000, Fred<nobody@home.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm terrified more dead Furbys will materialize at the hands of crying
>> little girls who are born to wrap 65 year old electronics technicians
>> around their little fingers......Failure is not an option!
>
> Well, according to Wikipedia, there were 40 million Furby's sold. I'll
> assume that half were sold in the USA. The 0-14 year old population
> is about 30 million, resulting in fairly good chance that almost every
> brat you know has a Furby buried somewhere under the toy pile. Your
> only safe option is to avoid crying little girls and their desperate
> parents.
>
>> Absolutely nothing I ever repaired, calibrated or overhauled has been
>> anywhere near as rewarding at that dead Furby.
>
> After than computer crime, fixing toys does tend to be rewarding.
> Unfortunately, most toys are designed to be assembled, not
> disassembled or repaired. If the challenge is your forte, you found
> it.
>
> In my non-existent spare time, I also fix bicycles.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/>
> All too often, the neighborhood brats dump their machines on my
> doorstep with scribbled instructions to fix the bike or they'll slash
> my car tires. Seems like a fair exchange. Since I have this
> masochistic urge to fix anything, I usually perform the necessary
> bicycle repairs. In gratitude, they ride off yelling "see ya".
> Methinks Furby repair would be easier and more gratifying.
>
>> (Service hint - Mommy does NOT know what batteries in the drawer are dead
>> and which ones are good, even though she thinks they are "new".)
>
> All batteries not in their original shrink wrap, customer proof,
> bubble packaging, are presumed to be dead. "Shelf Life" is somewhat
> of an oxymoron as no batteries sitting on the shelf are ever found to
> be usable.
>
> Incidentally, my rule of thumb is "if it moves, it breaks".
> Unfortunately, almost everything inside the Furby moves, so there's
> plenty of room for failures.
>

Furby Autopsy: http://www.phobe.com/furby/index.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Advance SG81
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a50328eb565a59d1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 6:39 am
From: baron

Dave M Inscribed thus:

> Baron wrote:
>> Hi Guys,
>>
>> Has anyone or know where I can find a service manual/circuit diagram
>> for an "Advance Low Frequency Generator, Model SG81(A).
>>
>> Thanks in advance. (Pun not intended)
>
>
> Manuals Plus lists the SG81A manual at
> http://www.manualsplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?sku=102720
>
> Cheers

Thanks Dave. Much appreciated.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: switching on ibm pc 300gl psu?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cb46b8e6671ac7bc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 6:49 am
From: baron

Meat Plow Inscribed thus:

> On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 17:20:48 -0800, mynick wrote:
>
>> How do you turn it on
>> it has no green or black-brown-blue-white wires like regular at psu
>> with switch going to/from mentioned mains wires ? this one has some
>> different system(I do not think ac is going up the connector to mbd
>> to switch and back)
>
> Black and green on the locking tab side of plug is power on 20 pin ATX
> style supply. You're saying this does not exist? The 300gl being quite
> obsolete might be hard to find technical errata on the PSU if
> proprietary.
>

If I remember correctly that machine PSU has a three pin connector with
two wires, one white, one gray, that need to be shorted together.
Should be about 4.5 volts between them OC.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 4:37 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 17:20:48 -0800 (PST), mynick <anglomont@yahoo.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

>How do you turn it on
>it has no green or black-brown-blue-white wires
>like regular at psu
>with switch going to/from mentioned mains wires ? this one
>has some different system(I do not think ac is going up the connector
>to mbd to switch and back)

As Baron says, there will be one PS_ON wire that is pulled up to +5VSB
via a resistor. AFAICS, this means that when the PSU is in standby,
there will be two live wires -- one for +5VSB, and the other for
PS_ON. You should be able to determine the +5V, +12V, and Ground wires
by testing for continuity with the hard drive Molex connectors.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ESR meter built in seconds
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43a6d9df89036edc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 7:06 am
From: George Herold

On Jan 26, 10:28 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "George Herold is a real Pain "
>
>
>
> > > In other words... If the driving frequency is high enough that the
> > > capacitive reactance is essentially zero, then the net impedance is
> > > essentially the ESR. Right?
>
> > ** Errr - yep.
>
> > But it ain't that simple.
>
> > One has to examine the actual impedance curves for typical electros to see
> > what the game is - the curve is like no other kind of cap.
>
> > Think of Q factors of circa 0.05 and ESRs that way exceed the calculated
> > impedance at 100kHz.
>
> Nice tip thanks Phil.  The 100uF electro's I have came out with ~0.15
> ohms of ESR, using your method.
> I've never seen an impedance curve for an electro cap.  Do you have a
> link or know which manufacturer's website I might check?
>
> ** Found this PDF on the net  - seems to have lots good info on the humble
> electro.
>
> http://www.epcos.com/web/generator/Web/Sections/ProductCatalog/Capaci...
>
> See page 15,  figs 13 and 14.
>
> One can easily see the dramatic effect temperature has on the impedance
> minima or ESR  -  electros work better when they are HOT !!
>
> Also, the minimum impedance value ( same as the ESR ) occurs around 50 -
> 100kHz and is quite broad - the  higher the ESR and the lower the temp the
> broader.
>
> At 20C the 47uF, 350 volt electro in fig 14 exhibits a deep impedance minima
> ( essentially 0.4 ohms resistive ) from 10kHz to 2 MHz.
>
> ....  Phil

That's great! Thanks Phil, I found some graphs by Vishay, but they
weren't nearly as nice. (No temperature dependence and frequencies
only to 100kHz) Of course at high temperatures the electro's leak
more.

I used your techinque to look at a 1000uF cap. I used a DSO with a
bit of signal averaging. ('scope triggered from a sync output from the
generator) I got something like 0.016 ohms at 100kHz. Our SRS RCL
meter measured 0.014 ohms at 10kHz for the same cap. and then 'lost
it's mind' at 100kHz. (reported a negative capacitance.)

George H.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 7:18 am
From: "Pete C."

aemeijers wrote:
>
> On 1/26/2011 8:38 PM, Pete C. wrote:
> >
> > aemeijers wrote:
> >>
> >> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> >> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> >> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> >> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> >> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> >> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> >> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> >> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> >> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> >> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
> >>
> >> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
> >>
> >> --
> >> aem sends...
> >
> > When I got tired of burned out lamps in the CD/radio in my Chevy truck,
> > I replaced them with T1 white LEDs from DigiKey (and dropping
> > resistors). They worked perfectly, and even dim evenly with the normal
> > instrument dimmer control.
> >
> > http://wpnet.us/guts.jpg
> > http://wpnet.us/closeup.jpg
> > http://wpnet.us/display.jpg
>
> Yeah, I know, and that is what all the gearheads on the Dodge truck/van
> forums said to do. But I am soldering-challenged, and haven't seen my
> fine-point Weller in at least a decade. I'm sure it is SOMEPLACE here,
> but....
> The swap I did, and what I wanna do again with the correct parts, is
> straight mechanical work, and totally reversible if I take the lazy way
> out and find a real U-pick junkyard (none near here with anything newer
> than 2000), and harvest some bulbs from shiny wrecks. I have no
> convenient way to heat the board to tell which side of the hole in the
> PC board is + and -, and no convenient way to solder to the trace and
> get a good connection. These push-and-turn PC bases that the wire tails
> wrap around are about 3 layers deep inside the mother. It took me about
> 3 tries to find a T9 torx bit to even open it up. In the Gen IV mopar
> minis like mine, there are about 6 different variants of the HVAC
> control pod. The documentation the parts guy had only applies to the
> fancy version, with hard-mounted bulbs. 3 different dealers told me the
> lights were not serviceable. I opened up the also-dark headlight switch
> panel, and found holes for similar lights, but no lights and no feed
> traces, and empty holes in the connector block. !#$%^& Chrysler had
> 'decontented' the vans by 05, to save a couple bucks here and there.
>
> rant mode off
>
> I know I have wasted way too much time and money on this already, but
> 'engineering' like this, done by bean counters, just pisses me off.

Do you have a non-soldering-challenged friend or coworker who can do the
work for beer and pizza? It's only perhaps an hour job at most.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 11:13 am
From: N8N

On Jan 26, 7:42 pm, aemeijers <aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
> On 1/26/2011 7:28 PM, Meat Plow wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Wed, 26 Jan 2011 19:22:03 -0500, aemeijers wrote:
>
> >> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> >> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> >> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> >> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> >> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> >> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> >> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> >> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> >> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> >> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> >> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> > Can't you apply an acrylic blue tint to the bulbs. Or just suffer with a
> > white light?
>
> I'm no artist or painter- where would I get that in small quantity at a
> decent price? I was just thinking blue nail polish or model paint of the
> 'candy' variety.

either of those ideas should work, also you could get some transparent
paint intended for making fake stained glass. I've used nail polish
before to "make" 57Rs for dash bulbs for old Studebakers.

If you've already got the bulb condoms why not just get a higher
wattage bulb than the ones you've already tried? any tint/paint will
reduce light output as well.

nate

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 12:12 pm
From: "Harrison Lighting and Neon"

I am a lighting service person and we use DEKA brand transparent LIGHT BLUE
#30
glass stain. I have personally used this to dip antique x-mas lights and
#47 dial bulbs with EXCELLENT results.......most any glass or hobby shop can
get this.
the small size bottle is 2/3 fluid ounce for about $4ea. this will do
aprox 75 #40 lamps ( these were used as Christmas lights in the late
1940's)
clean the lamps with alcohol, dip, stick the wire leads into a piece of
Styrofoam at an angle so the paint drips down but not all over the
leads....one dip will give very good results....if you really want to do it
right bake these in a toaster oven at 200-300 degrees for aprox 15 minutes
after they are dry to the touch. THIS WILL STINK a little,, so make sure
the wife is away, but it wont damage the oven. or contact me by email and I
can do a few for you if your not in a big hurry.

Herb Harrison Oxnard Calif USA

"aemeijers" <aemeijers@att.net> wrote in message
news:PdSdnd-S09w2J93QnZ2dnUVZ_uidnZ2d@giganews.com...
> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them too
> dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted my
> money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> --
> aem sends...

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 3:54 pm
From: Bob AZ

On Jan 26, 5:22 pm, aemeijers <aemeij...@att.net> wrote:
> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
> --
> aem sends...

AEM

bulbman.com or google for more leads

Bob AZ

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 6:51 pm
From: aemeijers

On 1/27/2011 3:12 PM, Harrison Lighting and Neon wrote:
> I am a lighting service person and we use DEKA brand transparent LIGHT BLUE
> #30
> glass stain. I have personally used this to dip antique x-mas lights and
> #47 dial bulbs with EXCELLENT results.......most any glass or hobby shop can
> get this.
> the small size bottle is 2/3 fluid ounce for about $4ea. this will do
> aprox 75 #40 lamps ( these were used as Christmas lights in the late
> 1940's)
> clean the lamps with alcohol, dip, stick the wire leads into a piece of
> Styrofoam at an angle so the paint drips down but not all over the
> leads....one dip will give very good results....if you really want to do it
> right bake these in a toaster oven at 200-300 degrees for aprox 15 minutes
> after they are dry to the touch. THIS WILL STINK a little,, so make sure
> the wife is away, but it wont damage the oven. or contact me by email and I
> can do a few for you if your not in a big hurry.
>
>
> Herb Harrison Oxnard Calif USA
>

Thanks. I'll try 'Hobby Lobby' this weekend. (when they came in, the
ma'n'pa places went belly up.)

aem sends...

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Desk Lamp Mercury
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/298b36c6025d19e8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 11:45 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Jan 27, 12:45 am, vjp2...@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I got a new desk lamp from Staples and it has a warning about mercury.  THe
> fluorescent bulb that came with it has the same warning.  Am I right in
> assuming th emercury refered to the SBCFL?  THe switch rotates on the same
> axis as the buld screws in, so given the gooseneck, I have no reason to
> believe the switch works with mercury (ie, gravity). Am I right?
>
>                                     - = -
>  Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
>                    http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
>   ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice.  Everything fully disclaimed.}---
>    [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
>  [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

Of course!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Schematic or Manual for Proton D940
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/72697c8f492bd3e2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 11:53 am
From: "Trevor Wilson"

danube wrote:
> Hello folks,
>
> I have a Proton D940 vintage receiver from the 1980's that stopped
> working on me and I would like to repair it. First step would seem to
> me to get a manual for it.
> I did a google search and the last post to come up with a relevant hit
> is from 2000! That does not bode well for my expectations from the
> following question:
>
> Does anyone here have, or know where I can get, a service manual,
> including schematics, for a Proton D940 receiver? Come on, someone's
> got to have *one* of
> these right?
>
> *Please* let me know if you have one you could scan and post or copy
> for me. I'll pay a fair price for the effort.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dan
>
> p.s. No Fotofacts either.

**I may have one somewhere, but it will take some time to locate. As I
recall, however, that model Proton is a direct copy of the NAD 7150 or 7155
receiver. So close are the amps that the parts designation numbers on the
PCBs are the same. Proton is/was manufactured by Fulet, who were the
manufacturer used by NAD in the early 1980s. The NAD 7150/7155 should be
easy to locate.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Broken CFL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 2:05 pm
From: jeff_wisnia

Jeffrey Angus wrote:

> On 1/25/2011 2:58 PM, GS wrote:
>
>> Reminds me of a time where a lab device tipped over and
>> spilled mercury all over the place.
>
>
> Ah for simpler times... Back in High School chemstry class
> one of the students dropped a 1/2 quart jar of Mercury on the floor.

Ditto here, back in the lat 1940s or so it was quite common for kids to
rub mercury on silver coins to give them a marvelous sheen which only
lasted a few hours before darkening through whatever chemical reaction
took place.

Jeff (Who spells his first name with one less "e" than Mr. Angus.)

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
>
>
> "That shit's expensive" so we were all on our hands and knees
> chasing it around with 3x5 cards scooping it back up and
> dribbling it into a new jar.
>
> And tell me I'm not the only one that looked forward to
> "Replacement fluorescent lamp day" at the local market.
> My friends and I would run off with 50-60 8' lamps and
> go have an epic sword fight until they were all broken.
>
> Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nickel plated polyimide--where to get?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bee83d05dbdcb50?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 3:31 pm
From: dbr@kbrx.com

to repeat martin brown, try a bowl of electroless nickel. If you're not
familiar with the technique, maybe google.

Hul

In sci.electronics.design Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
> I have a partly-baked idea for improving temperature controllers, but it
> requires a bunch of nickel plated polyimide film--say 3 to 8 mils thick,
> with 40 microinches of electroless nickel on it.

> I need to pattern it and then solder to it. Copper is too conductive,
> which is a pity, since I already have a roll of polyimide with 1/2 oz Cu
> on it.

> I haven't found anybody that's interested in supplying it in engineering
> quantities (say 10 square feet).

> Anyone here have a favourite shop that does nickel plating on plastic?

> Thanks

> Phil Hobbs

> --
> Dr Philip C D Hobbs
> Principal
> ElectroOptical Innovations
> 55 Orchard Rd
> Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
> 845-480-2058

> email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
> http://electrooptical.net

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 4:16 pm
From: Phil Hobbs

dbr@kbrx.com wrote:
> to repeat martin brown, try a bowl of electroless nickel. If you're not
> familiar with the technique, maybe google.
>
> Hul
>
> In sci.electronics.design Phil Hobbs<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>> I have a partly-baked idea for improving temperature controllers, but it
>> requires a bunch of nickel plated polyimide film--say 3 to 8 mils thick,
>> with 40 microinches of electroless nickel on it.
>
>> I need to pattern it and then solder to it. Copper is too conductive,
>> which is a pity, since I already have a roll of polyimide with 1/2 oz Cu
>> on it.
>
>> I haven't found anybody that's interested in supplying it in engineering
>> quantities (say 10 square feet).
>
>> Anyone here have a favourite shop that does nickel plating on plastic?
>
>> Thanks
>
>> Phil Hobbs
>
>> --
>> Dr Philip C D Hobbs
>> Principal
>> ElectroOptical Innovations
>> 55 Orchard Rd
>> Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
>> 845-480-2058
>
>> email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
>> http://electrooptical.net

It isn't that simple to make it stick. Activating the surface needs
chromic acid and stuff like that. I want to throw money at this, not
spend a week reinventing the wheel.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058

email: hobbs (atsign) electrooptical (period) net
http://electrooptical.net

==============================================================================

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