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Today's topics:
* Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs. - 3 messages, 3
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
* Broken CFL - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
* Desk Lamp Mercury - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/298b36c6025d19e8?hl=en
* MAKE UPTO $5000 P/M $2000 IN FIRST 30 DAYS! NO INVESTMENT - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4a5b2eea5aba02f9?hl=en
* Two phases or not? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
* ESR meter built in seconds - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43a6d9df89036edc?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Quest du jour- seeking T1.25 wire base blue tinted bulbs.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a26e1506f0b6d44b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 6:51 pm
From: aemeijers
On 1/27/2011 3:12 PM, Harrison Lighting and Neon wrote:
> I am a lighting service person and we use DEKA brand transparent LIGHT BLUE
> #30
> glass stain. I have personally used this to dip antique x-mas lights and
> #47 dial bulbs with EXCELLENT results.......most any glass or hobby shop can
> get this.
> the small size bottle is 2/3 fluid ounce for about $4ea. this will do
> aprox 75 #40 lamps ( these were used as Christmas lights in the late
> 1940's)
> clean the lamps with alcohol, dip, stick the wire leads into a piece of
> Styrofoam at an angle so the paint drips down but not all over the
> leads....one dip will give very good results....if you really want to do it
> right bake these in a toaster oven at 200-300 degrees for aprox 15 minutes
> after they are dry to the touch. THIS WILL STINK a little,, so make sure
> the wife is away, but it wont damage the oven. or contact me by email and I
> can do a few for you if your not in a big hurry.
>
>
> Herb Harrison Oxnard Calif USA
>
Thanks. I'll try 'Hobby Lobby' this weekend. (when they came in, the
ma'n'pa places went belly up.)
aem sends...
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 7:39 pm
From: Tony Miklos
On 1/26/2011 7:22 PM, aemeijers wrote:
> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
>
> And yes, I already tried rec.autos.tech.
>
Blue INK will work much better than blue paint.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 10:02 pm
From: David Nebenzahl
On 1/26/2011 4:22 PM aemeijers spake thus:
> Anybody know a source for T1 1/4 wire base bulbs (NOT LEDs) with blue
> tint? Trying to replace the lights on the HVAC controls for a 2005
> Caravan. Dealer claims they are unserviceable, and wants to sell me a
> whole new pod for hundreds of dollars. I have already replaced them with
> T1's (too small) after buying T1 3/4 that were too big (I feel like
> Goldilocks), but the T1s are too short, and the blue condoms make them
> too dim. I am aware of McMaster-Carr and Allied- that is where I wasted
> my money on the first two tries, for the condoms and bulbs respectively.
> Allied has clear bulbs in the right size (now that dummy me figured out
> what the size is), but not the tinted ones.
Well, here's something novel for this thread: an actual possible source
of bulbs. Try donsbulbs. This search:
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/t.pl?searchb=t1-1%2F4
turned up a shitload of T1-1/4 bulbs. Sorry, too lazy to go through
them; maybe your bulb is in there somewhere. (Or you could contact the
guy; I think it's actually some guy named Don who runs this biz.)
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Broken CFL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75850803cb529797?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 7:16 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"
Rubbing mercury on coins was still a fairly regular pastime in the early
60s. too.. lots of kids/teens would do this, as small quantities of mercury
were quite prevelent in many home workshops then.
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"jeff_wisnia" <jwisniaDumpThisPart@conversent.net> wrote in message
news:ihsq8i$7v4$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> Ditto here, back in the lat 1940s or so it was quite common for kids to
> rub mercury on silver coins to give them a marvelous sheen which only
> lasted a few hours before darkening through whatever chemical reaction
> took place.
>
> Jeff (Who spells his first name with one less "e" than Mr. Angus.)
>
> --
> Jeffry Wisnia
> (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
> The speed of light is 1.8*10e12 furlongs per fortnight.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 8:50 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 22:16:27 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
<wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
>Rubbing mercury on coins was still a fairly regular pastime in the early
>60s. too.. lots of kids/teens would do this, as small quantities of mercury
>were quite prevelent in many home workshops then.
You mean like this?
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/mercury.jpg>
The bottle is about 40% full. I used the missing mercury for various
illegal and entertaining purposes. Re-silvering ancient sextant
mirrors was one of my sidelines. I've also supplied some mercury to
several doctors for refilling their mercury sphygmomanometer. The
typical CFL bulb has about 3mg of Hg. When full, the bottle had a net
weight of about 2kg of Hg.
As usual, much of what we know about mercury is alarmist and wrong:
<http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/promotions/change_light/downloads/Fact_Sheet_Mercury.pdf>
"Therefore, if all 272 million CFLs3 sold in 2009 were sent
to a landfill (versus recycled, as a worst case) � they
would add 0.12 metric tons, or 0.12 percent, to U.S. mercury
emissions caused by humans."
`
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 9:26 pm
From: David Nebenzahl
On 1/27/2011 8:50 PM Jeff Liebermann spake thus:
> As usual, much of what we know about mercury is alarmist and wrong:
> <http://www.energystar.gov/ia/partners/promotions/change_light/downloads/Fact_Sheet_Mercury.pdf>
> "Therefore, if all 272 million CFLs3 sold in 2009 were sent
> to a landfill (versus recycled, as a worst case) – they
> would add 0.12 metric tons, or 0.12 percent, to U.S. mercury
> emissions caused by humans."
That's interesting. Of course, it tells us *nothing* about how alarmist
and wrong what we "know" about mercury is; all it tells us is that the
amount of mercury in CFLs is much smaller than the total amount of
mercury let loose by human beans. Says nothing about mercury's toxicity.
(I guess I have an average mercury "body burden" since I have amalgam
fillings. But I still can't for the life of me figure out just how it's
OK to walk around with mercury in my TEETH just because it's been mixed
with other metals. It's not even an *alloy*, for chrissakes. How does
that work?)
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Desk Lamp Mercury
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/298b36c6025d19e8?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 8:17 pm
From: isw
In article <4d411fe2$0$15451$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> On 1/26/2011 10:45 PM vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com spake thus:
>
> > I got a new desk lamp from Staples and it has a warning about mercury. THe
> > fluorescent bulb that came with it has the same warning. Am I right in
> > assuming th emercury refered to the SBCFL? THe switch rotates on the same
> > axis as the buld screws in, so given the gooseneck, I have no reason to
> > believe the switch works with mercury (ie, gravity). Am I right?
>
> Dang, I hope so. As far as I know, the only kinds of mercury switches in
> common use, aside from speciality ones, are ordinary household light
> switches. They're talking about the CFL.
Thermostats commonly have mercury switches.
Isaac
==============================================================================
TOPIC: MAKE UPTO $5000 P/M $2000 IN FIRST 30 DAYS! NO INVESTMENT
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4a5b2eea5aba02f9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 9:13 pm
From: jameser
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Two phases or not?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 9:16 pm
From: David Nebenzahl
On 1/27/2011 12:29 AM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
>> On 1/26/2011 7:45 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:
>>
>>> Michael Kennedy wrote:
>>>
>>>>> MIke et al
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem seems to be that after all this dialogue, that so
>>>>> many of the responders simply don't stick to the basic
>>>>> premise that different phases by definition have timing
>>>>> differences. Simply reversing the way of using a phase does
>>>>> not make it a different phase. The timing stays the same.
>>>>
>>>> Ok I get what your saying.. But do you understand what a phanse
>>>>
difference
>>>> is?? It is timing like you said..
>>>>
>>>> Here is an explanation using audio waves. Maybe you can get
>>>> what I am saying.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.indiana.edu/~emusic/acoustics/phase.htm
>>>
>>> By your definiton, a 'Push-Pull Output Transformer' is two
>>> phase.
>>
>> It IS two phase; that's the whole point. (At least on the primary side.)
>
> Then a Williamson 'Ultra linear' output transformer is four phase?
>
> <http://www.pmillett.com/file_downloads/stancor_ul_schematics.pdf>
>
> See page 4 for a sample schmatic.
I looked at your Stancor PDF. Why in the world would you think I'd think
that transformer is 4-phase???
[btw, the schematics are on pages 2 and 6]
OK, I'll play along here. On page 6 they show an output xfmr with 2
taps. But of course that has nothing whatever to do with phase, as you
damn well know, because the output is referenced to one of the OUTER
LEGS OF THE TRANSFORMER (see that "COM" on the bottom?), so the output
is simply one phase. I was talking about a center-tapped transformer
where the two sides are referenced to THE CENTER TAP.
So again, how does a center-tapped transformer secondary WHERE THE
OUTPUT IS REFERENCED TO THE CENTER TAP (i.e., the center tap is
grounded) NOT generate two separate phases? Please 'splain that.
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: ESR meter built in seconds
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/43a6d9df89036edc?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 27 2011 9:28 pm
From: David Nebenzahl
On 1/27/2011 7:06 AM George Herold spake thus:
> I used your techinque to look at a 1000uF cap. I used a DSO with a
> bit of signal averaging. ('scope triggered from a sync output from the
> generator) I got something like 0.016 ohms at 100kHz. Our SRS RCL
> meter measured 0.014 ohms at 10kHz for the same cap. and then 'lost
> it's mind' at 100kHz. (reported a negative capacitance.)
Perhaps you've stumbled onto the "anti-capacitor". Maybe you could
patent it ...
--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:
To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.
==============================================================================
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