sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* 30 GB Video Ipod - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a74e97b5f167a0e6?hl=en
* Radar detector/scrambler - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/646f5661b2cfc1b7?hl=en
* Tube Amp 6L6GC Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ad57064b3ab9e7f?hl=en
* SEX IMAGES - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f53f2b42f7bb63ff?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 30 GB Video Ipod
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a74e97b5f167a0e6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 6:59 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 02:38:07 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2011.02.16.14.10.58@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>>>> Arfa
>>>>
>>>> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
>>>> bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I
>>>> can take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>>>>
>>>> This is with backlight:
>>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
>> cimg0047.jpg>
>>>>
>>>> This is with reflected light only:
>>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
>> cimg0046.jpg>
>>>>
>>>> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>>>> the screen.
>>>> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
>>>> reflected light.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
>>> second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
>>> the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
>>> it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
>>> being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
>>> someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple
>>> of weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and
>>> overflowing, as always !!) and see if I can see what lights it
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>> Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
>> just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl.
>> And even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear.
>> When you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special
>> tool? The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the
>> buckles apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new
>> display is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me
>> want to try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be
>> some bad soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out
>> of the blue, no reason.
>>
>> Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB
>> unit with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but
>> I'll have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.
>>
>>
>>
> You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although
> some replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
> facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
> curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.
>
> The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but
> you have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a
> piece of thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or
> something - it may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off
> from the front. You have to get into the small crack between the glass
> of the touchscreen, and the metal case back, where it curves around to
> meet the glass. The LCD display, and touchscreen glass are fitted
> together into a thin plastic 'frame' that completely surrounds the four
> edges, and it is to this frame that the case is clipped. So, once you
> have started to insert your springing tool, before you have gone in too
> far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it in towards the screen, so
> that the inserted end is moving away from the crack. The tool tip will
> then slide down the outside of the thin frame, inside the metal cover.
> Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool back up away from the
> screen, and this will flex the metal case off the plastic frame. Once it
> has started to open like this, it's just a case then of following round
> the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion that's critical
> if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get between the thin
> plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case off, you will
> instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...
>
> All of the component parts of the display are available for very
> reasonable prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a
> well-stuck-together assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully
> get it apart to replace either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you
> end up buying a replacement ready assembled unit.
>
> If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have
> a picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin
> frame that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool
> (!) I'm sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as
> well.
>
> The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are
> notorious for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once
> you're inside the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It
> comes complete on its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little
> zif connector, and it is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid
> just a few quid delivered for the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian
> wonga.
>
> One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the
> main board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint.
> It's very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you
> ever do one. It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you
> find on the wifi antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to
> be, it actually needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy
> that it is sitting squarely over the socket on the main board. It will
> then go with a really solid click. If it doesn't do this, your
> touchscreen will be intermittent or inoperative when you get the unit
> all back together. The thing that makes this final operation tricky to
> do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the plug on it, is very short.
>
> With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to
> struggle too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.
>
> Arfa

Will do mate thanks for taking the time to explain in that detail. it
boosts my confidence tremendously. I'll tackle the 30 tomorrow I'm very
curious just what the damn screen is made of.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Radar detector/scrambler
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/646f5661b2cfc1b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 7:05 pm
From: Jim Yanik

PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
news:uerol6558tg00minqbo6n5sacdaeco0co7@4ax.com:

> On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:06:14 -0800 (PST),
> "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On Feb 15, 6:40�pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>>> On 2/15/2011 5:20 PM, Mysterious Traveler wrote:
>>>
>>> > Video can help keep cops honest.
>>>
>>> And there in lies the rub.
>>>
>>> Every time something is proposed to make them do their
>>> job correctly and legally, they throw their hands up, "But
>>> we can't do our job!" and the assorted unions step in to
>>> block it as well.
>>>
>>> The "management" gets involved and finds new creative ways
>>> to distort laws to their own purposes to "protect their own."
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>
>>This is all very interesting but can anyone please answer my original
>>question? IE how they work and how it can be legal? Lenny
>
> OK, the answer... 1. They don't typically work, and 2. they are not
> legal.
>
> In theory one could build a jammer circuit, that would work with one
> specific brand/mdel of radar gun, however such a system may not work
> with other brands or models, and as well any attempt would violate
> federal law absolutely and many states also have prohibitions against
> such devices.
>

"in theory",one could build a channelized EW(electronic warfare) suite such
as military aircraft use,and it would work with all known radarguns.
Cost would be prohibitive,though. Just fitting one to your vehicle would be
a real Project.

BTW,I wonder if a broadband whitenoise type of jammer would work,burying
the radargun's signal in the noise.
You'd need substantial power and have to cover each band used for radar
speed guns.it could be triggered by the first radar pulse and xmit long
enough for you to pass the patrol car or to slow to posted speed after
being alerted.

Still highly illegal,though.

then there was that guy who made a "stealth" car,faceted like the F-117.
no radar return,no speed measurement. :-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 10:27 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 15:27:25 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
>news:fi1ol6han0k9gns4174betgf35fbt7o6a6@4ax.com:
>
>> On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:32:11 -0800 (PST),
>> "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>This type of product is advertised almost everywhere that it helps you
>>>avoid tickets etc.
>>
>> Episode 18: Beat the Radar Detector
>><http://mythbustersresults.com/episode18>
>>
>>>I imagine that it must transmit a signal on the
>>>same freq. as the radar gun at the moment it receives the police
>>>transmission.
>>
>> You have a good imagination. The illegal ones are essentially radar
>> jammers. That's not as easy as it sounds as getting the timing just
>> right so that it coincides with a radar *PULSE* is tricky. Most
>> handheld radars now work on several bands simultaneously, making a
>> universal radar jammer somewhat difficult and expensive to produce.

>How are the HANDHELD radar guns multi-band?
>they would have to have multiple Gunn oscillators,too.
>
>And more than one feed horn.(antenna)

Maybe, but I've worked with horn antennas with several octave
bandwidth. It's not the horn that's bandwidth limited. It's the
waveguide feed. Figure about 0.6 octaves per standard waveguide
number:
<http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/waveguidedimensions.cfm>
Since only one feed need be active at a time, it's easy enough to
build a switch or just imbed the Gunn diodes or DRO (dielectric
resonant oscillator) and detector diodes in the throat of the horn,
where no waveguide is necessary. Or, just forget about the switch and
use multiple patch antennas on a PCB to feed the horn antenna:
<http://www.eetimes.com/design/microwave-rf-design/4009957/Mattel-makes-a-real-radar-gun-on-the-cheap>
(Note: This is an X band design, which is NOT commonly used in
current police radar guns).

>Most that I've seen on police cars are pretty small units.

I'm wrong on the dual band feature. Kustom Signals advertises a "dual
K band" device (RP-1) for either K (24Ghz) or Ka (33-36Ghz) bands. I
wrongly assumed that this meant that the device was dual band. It
really means that it has two antennas, one internal and one external.
<http://www.galls.com/goid/style.html?assort=general_catalog&cat=&style=LE954>
<http://www.kustomsignals.com/product_body2.asp?product_id=89&cat_id=8&strpagename=fixedmount>
My apologies for the wrong info and thanks for the corrections.

>AFAIK,most radar guns are Doppler,and the receiver reads the strongest
>signal it receives,so transmitting a signal from your "jammer" overpowers
>the reflected radargun signal.That jammer signal has to be near in freq
>to the gun's signal,or it will be rejected,because it would indicate a
>higher speed than the gun will measure or considers reasonable.Then the
>speed gun would light it's "interference" indicator.

The problem is for the jammer to figure out what frequency to jam and
then to synchronize the pulse repetition rate to that of the radar.
That's not easy when it could be arriving on X, K, Ka, and possibly Ku
bands. It doesn't take very long to get a reading and if the jammer
is listening on the wrong band or simply too slow, it will be too
late.

I have two of these radar guns, in rather poor condition:
<http://www.kustomsignals.com/product_body2.asp?product_id=26&cat_id=7&strpagename=handheld>
While totally obsolete, one does function well enough to measure
speed. I must admit that I've never tested it for jamming tolerance.
Tempting to build this ummm... tester:
<http://blockyourid.com/~gbpprorg/mil/wall/speed/index.html>

>do you have any information on or links to these multi-band radar speed
>guns?

No, nor could I find any. There might be some patents but after a few
minutes of zero luck, I gave up. I recall discussing the problem
during a show with someone from Kustom Signals, who indicated that a
solution to a potential jamming problem was to frequency hop through
the available bands. At the time, only X and K bands were available,
so I assumed that this was the current technology. Apparently not.

Radar Gun FAQ:
<http://www.radarguns.com/radar-guns-faq.html>

Ramsey Radar Gun:
<http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=SG7>

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 10:37 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 15:31:52 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

>one "calibrator" I've seen was a simple one transistor oscillator,and it
>was for checking radar DETECTORS.
>at a short range,it would set off X-band detectors.
>IIRC,it used a MF914 transistor and stripline PCB. or maybe MF912....

<http://blockyourid.com/~gbpprorg/mil/wall/speed/index.html>
No RF involved. It generates a tone that modulates the Gunn diode
bias voltage, thus simulating a doppler shift.

You might be thinking of the Highway Zapper Radar Activator.
<http://pe2bz.philpem.me.uk/Comm/-%20Transmitters/-%20Jammers/Info-801-PoliceRadarJamming/zapper.html>
<http://books.google.com/books?id=KrfIjdl-EMwC&pg=PA45&lpg=PA45&dq=highway+zapper+radar+activator>
It's an X band radar jammer that triggers radar detectors, but doesn't
seem to interfere with the police radars.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tube Amp 6L6GC Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ad57064b3ab9e7f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 8:19 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I bought a Peavey Mace VT guitar amp (bare, no enclosure) which has a power
output capability of about 150 watts, by way of a power section utilizing 6
each, 6L6GC tubes, arranged in 3 paralleled pairs (2 sets of 3), feeding the
center-tapped output transformer.

I'd like to just use 2 tubes (~ 50W) for the power section, but don't know
if the power circuit would need to be modified for only using 2 of the
tubes.

The amp is capable of just using the non-tube/solid state pre-amp section
with the power section off (standby mode).. which will meet my needs while
practicing.

I'm not sure what I'll end up mounting the amp guts in.. I suppose either an
amp head box, but maybe in a combination amp-speaker(s) box.

I don't expect that finding a couple of high power capable 12" speakers will
be inexpensive, so using the amp with only 2 tubes will be more than
adequate for now.

I can't remember the last time I actually worked on any tube equipment, and
haven't retained any tube related experience/info, but I have looked into
checking the bias for power tubes.. which I'm likely capable of doing.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 9:21 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/16/2011 10:19 PM, Wild_Bill wrote:

> I'd like to just use 2 tubes (~ 50W) for the power section, but don't
> know if the power circuit would need to be modified for only using 2 of
> the tubes.

Basically.... you'll be running 3X the plate load resistance.
So, you'll have to change the plate transformer. You could look
for one with 5K load, or.... if you have a 16 ohm output on the
current transformer, you might try loading THAT with the 8 Ohm
speaker.

WOn't be quite right, but it should work well enough.
At least for testing.

Might also want to go trhough and make sure the idling currents
on the two tube are correct and that the B+ hasn't risen past
their maxim ratings.

Jeff

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 9:52 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeffrey Angus is full of Bull "

>
> Basically.... you'll be running 3X the plate load resistance.
> So, you'll have to change the plate transformer.

** Bollocks you will.

> You could look
> for one with 5K load, or.... if you have a 16 ohm output on the
> current transformer, you might try loading THAT with the 8 Ohm
> speaker.

** The worst possible thing to do.

Wot an idiot - mooooooooo.....

..... Phil

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 9:55 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Wild_Bill"
>
>I bought a Peavey Mace VT guitar amp (bare, no enclosure) which has a power
>output capability of about 150 watts, by way of a power section utilizing 6
>each, 6L6GC tubes, arranged in 3 paralleled pairs (2 sets of 3), feeding
>the center-tapped output transformer.
>
> I'd like to just use 2 tubes (~ 50W) for the power section, but don't know
> if the power circuit would need to be modified for only using 2 of the
> tubes.

** No mod is needed.

But the speaker load impedance will need to be 3 ( or 4 ) times the
currently rated value.

If it is 4 ohms now, then the ideal is 12 ohms, 16 ohms is near enough.

So, get two 8 ohm guitar speakers of about 30 watts rating and connect them
in series.

..... Phil

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 17 2011 12:09 am
From: Fred

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in
news:0m17p.239226$UC6.102660@en-nntp-08.dc1.easynews.com:

> I bought a Peavey Mace VT guitar amp (bare, no enclosure) which has a
> power output capability of about 150 watts, by way of a power section
> utilizing 6 each, 6L6GC tubes, arranged in 3 paralleled pairs (2 sets
> of 3), feeding the center-tapped output transformer.
>
> I'd like to just use 2 tubes (~ 50W) for the power section, but don't
> know if the power circuit would need to be modified for only using 2
> of the tubes.
>
> The amp is capable of just using the non-tube/solid state pre-amp
> section with the power section off (standby mode).. which will meet my
> needs while practicing.
>
> I'm not sure what I'll end up mounting the amp guts in.. I suppose
> either an amp head box, but maybe in a combination amp-speaker(s) box.
>
> I don't expect that finding a couple of high power capable 12"
> speakers will be inexpensive, so using the amp with only 2 tubes will
> be more than adequate for now.
>
> I can't remember the last time I actually worked on any tube
> equipment, and haven't retained any tube related experience/info, but
> I have looked into checking the bias for power tubes.. which I'm
> likely capable of doing.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>

Hmm....I don't think this is a good idea. These amps are built really
cheap with common cathode bias, which is probably all going through one
big HOT power resistor with a big cap across it. If you start unplugging
tubes, the idle current drops and so does the bias voltage, so the tubes
that are left start conducting harder to hold up the bias voltage.
Unplugging 4 tubes will surely make for some RED HOT PLATES on the two
tubes that are left, just eating the tubes in short order unless
something inside melts, like the screens, and causes a fuse blowing short
to the HV power supply, probably taking out the solid state rectifiers
before the fuse blows.

Nope....not a good idea at all.

Turn out the lights with the amp running with no audio input. Turn down
the gain to zero to make sure. Now, look at the 6L6s and see if you see
an internal blue glow inside the plates....a little nuclear physics in
action. The holes in the plates will also allow high speed electrons to
zoom past the plates through the holes and make the glass glow inside,
too. The tubes get quite hot....real finger burners....in these cheap
amps. The tubes run this way for decades, by the way. Every tube amp
Leslie speaker on the planet uses cheap common cathode bias on the 6550
big power tubes, too. A 10 watt white resistor through the metal chassis
hole is their bias resistor on Leslies. This amp probably has one
similar that's really hot if you carefully feel around the chassis after
it's been on 10 minutes.

This is why I don't think it's a good idea. The purists will tell you
the impedance matching in the plate circuit will be all screwed up on 2
tubes, but it'll run fine like that....except for the horrible plate
current from the bias problem I describe here.

A pair of 6L6s with 300VDC on the plates is only about 15-17 watts before
the distortion starts to make your guitar sound like a fuzzbox is inline,
just before the plates arc from the output transformer inductive kick at
cutoff arcs back to the beam forming plates. 6 tubes will be about 45 to
50 watts of honest power (not furniture store "music power" nonsense)

Here's the schematic:
http://www.lh-electric.4t.com/projects/nfg-amp.htm
R4 is the cheap cathode bias resistor, 240 ohms to get 19.5VDC, smoothed
by C5 to prevent inverse feedback eating up the output power. You COULD
change out whatever cathode resistor is hooked to the pin 8 of the 6
tubes and copy R4, 240 ohms, 5 watts is plenty and use 2 tubes, but
you'll have to swap it back when you plug the tubes back in to get the
bias right. With the transformer winding mismatch for 2 tubes, it would
probably put out 10 watts when the buzzing started....enough for a living
room without the neighbors calling the cops, unless Les Paul is playing.

Just run the 50W 6-tube amp at a lower volume level and forget all this
nonsense. It's not going to run up your electric bill unless you use it
for a room heater all night. (By the way, as this amp draws plate
current all the time, playing at low volumes does NOT "save tubes" at
all.)

If you find a deal on KT-88 pairs or the big 6550 beasts, they are also
direct replacements with bigger plate ratings if the price is cheap.

http://tubesandmore.com/
has 6L6 for about $15 each. I've never heard any difference in the $250
set with the fancy boxes over the cheapest tubes. I like RUSSIAN tubes
because the Soviets made them to operate in a tank, the kind with the
gun, and will take a horrible shock if your handle falls off the amp
carrying it to a gig. I hate Ruby and other Chinese tubes because too
many of them came back to bite me in the ass on service recalls many
years ago. I've never replaced a Sovtek I installed, which is great for
customer relations but kinda hard on profit margins....even on Leslies
run wide open throttle for years in an AME Church, here in South
Carolina. The Leslie drive belts wear out before the tubes!

Well, thanks for the memories....Let's build a serious guitar amp out of
a pair of 4-1000A broadcast tetrodes and some modern kilowatt speakers
the neighbors won't soon forget:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4-1000A
Imagine how the audience at a big gig would react to your custom amp
driving a half dozen huge speakers using two tubes glowing bright red
behind a neat window in the front of the 6' tall 18" rack like the
transmitter tube in the website picture. They'd remember you and those
tubes lighting up the stage for the rest of their lives. 3800 watts is
pretty....well....deafening! The filaments for 2 tubes is 7.5V at
42 amps! Most impressive! Airflow sockets keep the wind noise cooling
them down. Nobody could hear it, anyway, with all that screaming...(c;]

Transistors my ass......hee hee.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SEX IMAGES
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f53f2b42f7bb63ff?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 17 2011 12:40 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

HOT HOLLYWOOD ACTRESS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/02/ferida-pinto.html
DEEPIKA PADUKONE HOT VIDEOS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/01/deepika-padukone.html
HOT ARCHANA STILLS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/01/archana.html
DEEKSHA SETH HOT WALLPAPERS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/01/deeksha-seth.html
KATRINA KAIF HOT VIDEOS&PHOTOS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/01/katrina-kaif.html
SAMEERAREDDY HOT BOOBS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/2011/01/sameerareddy.html

AMISHAPATEL HOT VIDEOS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/search/label/amisha
HANSIKHA HOT SEXY PHOTOS
http://karomasti9.blogspot.com/search/label/HANSIKA

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en