sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 30 GB Video Ipod (was: Re: Computer runs faster because it is soldered..
haha..
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a74e97b5f167a0e6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 15 2011 5:55 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

>> Arfa
>
> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
> light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
> pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>
> This is with backlight:
> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
>
> This is with reflected light only:
> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
>
> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the
> screen.
> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected
> light.
>
>
>
>
Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how the
things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that it's a
ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly being thick
enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless someone else knows,
I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of weeks ago, back out of
the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as always !!) and see if I
can see what lights it

Arfa

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 6:11 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

>>> Arfa
>>
>> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
>> bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can
>> take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>>
>> This is with backlight:
>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg>
>>
>> This is with reflected light only:
>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg>
>>
>> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>> the screen.
>> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
>> reflected light.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
> second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
> the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
> it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
> being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
> someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of
> weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as
> always !!) and see if I can see what lights it
>
> Arfa
>

Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
blue, no reason.

Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 6:49 am
From: JW

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.02.15.18.53.59@lmao.lol.lol>:

>On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:17:39 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2011.02.14.18.28.30@lmao.lol.lol...
>>> On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:44:27 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
>>>>>>and it was �10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it from
>>>>>>my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it was a
>>>>>>factory-original part.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
>>>>> factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few parts
>>>>> that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts which are
>>>>> simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices. Cosmetic parts,
>>>>> custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks, controls, keyboards,
>>>>> touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to be difficult to find.
>>>>> Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that cannibalize machines and
>>>>> sell the parts. Without used parts, many of the repairs that I'm
>>>>> doing would be either uneconomical or impossible. I could not build
>>>>> the business on purchasing new parts from the original manufacturer.
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The company I use is
>>>>
>>>> http://www.parts4ipods.com
>>>>
>>>> Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a
>>>> lot of Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.
>>>>
>>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak going
>>> from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just short of
>>> the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the streak does
>>> not appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the LCD just the
>>> lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess with trying to
>>> pry it apart and bend it all up but I would like to see if there is
>>> something that can be done first without buying a replacement panel.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>>
>> I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
>> connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one
>> side started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on this
>> one is crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except that
>> they don't show any screws down the sides once you have the case off.
>> There have been tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they are
>> obvious.
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related
>>
>> Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and
>> you have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay correctly
>> in place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case front. Not
>> ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating the first
>> ten times that it falls back out ... :-)
>>
>> Arfa
>
>How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
>light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
>pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>
>This is with backlight:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
>
>This is with reflected light only:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
>
>As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
>It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.

I know you say you never abused it, but it's almost like a scuff between
the CFL and the rear of the LCD panel. That might explain why you only see
when the backlight is on and light is (trying) to get though. IMO, it's
too random to be the LCD panel itself.

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 8:26 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:49:58 -0500, JW wrote:

> On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote in Message id: <pan.2011.02.15.18.53.59@lmao.lol.lol>:
>
>>On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:17:39 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:pan.2011.02.14.18.28.30@lmao.lol.lol...
>>>> On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:44:27 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>Just last week, I bought a replacement LCD assembly for a Classic,
>>>>>>>and it was £10.20 (say $15) including tax and delivery. I got it
>>>>>>>from my usual supplier here in the UK, and it looked as though it
>>>>>>>was a factory-original part.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Good price. It probably came directly from China from the same
>>>>>> factory that supplies the displays to Apple. I get quite a few
>>>>>> parts that way through Hong Kong. However, there are some parts
>>>>>> which are simply unobtainable new and/or at reasonable prices.
>>>>>> Cosmetic parts, custom chips, and wear parts (i.e. power jacks,
>>>>>> controls, keyboards, touchpads, hinges, rubber feet, etc) tend to
>>>>>> be difficult to find. Most of these I buy from eBay vendors that
>>>>>> cannibalize machines and sell the parts. Without used parts, many
>>>>>> of the repairs that I'm doing would be either uneconomical or
>>>>>> impossible. I could not build the business on purchasing new parts
>>>>>> from the original manufacturer.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The company I use is
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.parts4ipods.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Not much use to you as a leftpondian, but as you can see, they do a
>>>>> lot of Apple parts, including some cosmetics and touch screens.
>>>>>
>>>>> Arfa
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey how do I get my 30 GB Video Ipod apart? It has a .5mm streak
>>>> going from right to left in the middle of the screen but stops just
>>>> short of the left side. But it is in the backlighting because the
>>>> streak does not appear in bright light. So it doesn't seem to be the
>>>> LCD just the lighting. Does this sound right? I don't want to mess
>>>> with trying to pry it apart and bend it all up but I would like to
>>>> see if there is something that can be done first without buying a
>>>> replacement panel.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>>>
>>> I agree with Jeff. The problem is most likely the display itself or a
>>> connection to it. They come apart quite easily, once you have got one
>>> side started. there are lots of videos on You Tube. The English on
>>> this one is crap, but the actual video shows it all quite well, except
>>> that they don't show any screws down the sides once you have the case
>>> off. There have been tiny screws in all the ones I've seen, but they
>>> are obvious.
>>>
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYE9VF-9-kw&feature=related
>>>
>>> Trickiest bit I've found is when you come to put it back together, and
>>> you have to get the centre button in the control ring to stay
>>> correctly in place, as you try to get the ring to locate in the case
>>> front. Not ultimately hard exactly, just fiddly, and a bit frustrating
>>> the first ten times that it falls back out ... :-)
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>>How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in bright
>>light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can take a
>>pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>>
>>This is with backlight:
>><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg>
>>
>>This is with reflected light only:
>><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg>
>>
>>As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>>the screen. It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see
>>with reflected light.
>
> I know you say you never abused it, but it's almost like a scuff between
> the CFL and the rear of the LCD panel. That might explain why you only
> see when the backlight is on and light is (trying) to get though. IMO,
> it's too random to be the LCD panel itself.

Seeing one apart I don't see how the back of the LCD could get scuffed.
Nothing can really move being buckled in. Looking at the unit overall
there are some scuffs and scratches that i would consider normal wear.
Nothing along the lines of an impact. I may open it today if I can find
the right plastic tool.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 9:11 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>This is with backlight:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0047.jpg>
>
>This is with reflected light only:
><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/cimg0046.jpg>
>
>As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on the screen.
>It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with reflected light.

Weird. I thought you meant a line, not a smear. The iPod and most
Apple displays have a polarization filter as part of the display
sandwich in order to improve the contrast without backlighting. Try
wearing a pair of polarizing sunglasses and you'll see the display go
black at some angle. My guess(tm) is that there's some damage to the
polarizing screen.

Change your viewing angle of the display showing the smear, and see if
the black smear shifts with respect to the background image. If it
does shift, then it's not on the LCD layer, but rather something above
it, like the polarizing filter. If it doesn't shift, it's either the
LCD or the backlighting layer.

Any chance you could identify the exact model instead of just 30GB
iPod?
<http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod_Original>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 12:39 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:11:56 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 18:54:49 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>This is with backlight:
>><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0047.jpg>
>>
>>This is with reflected light only:
>><http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
cimg0046.jpg>
>>
>>As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>>the screen. It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see
>>with reflected light.
>
> Weird. I thought you meant a line, not a smear. The iPod and most
> Apple displays have a polarization filter as part of the display
> sandwich in order to improve the contrast without backlighting. Try
> wearing a pair of polarizing sunglasses and you'll see the display go
> black at some angle. My guess(tm) is that there's some damage to the
> polarizing screen.
>
> Change your viewing angle of the display showing the smear, and see if
> the black smear shifts with respect to the background image. If it does
> shift, then it's not on the LCD layer, but rather something above it,
> like the polarizing filter. If it doesn't shift, it's either the LCD or
> the backlighting layer.
>
> Any chance you could identify the exact model instead of just 30GB iPod?
> <http://www.ifixit.com/Browse/iPod_Original>

Model A1136 Video Ipod, color. The lines or smears do not change when
backlit and viewed at any angle. Nor do they appear when viewed at any
angle with no backlight. There are no dents or dings of any kind on the
unit. Just normal scuffing from being placed and removed from a
protective leather case. This was previously owned by a relative who
takes very good care of her things. She also has a 160 GB video Ipod and
a Ipod Touch. I asked her if she can remember dropping it and she said no
and that she would have remembered doing so.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 6:38 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.02.16.14.10.58@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>>>> Arfa
>>>
>>> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
>>> bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I can
>>> take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>>>
>>> This is with backlight:
>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
> cimg0047.jpg>
>>>
>>> This is with reflected light only:
>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
> cimg0046.jpg>
>>>
>>> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>>> the screen.
>>> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
>>> reflected light.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
>> second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
>> the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
>> it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
>> being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
>> someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple of
>> weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and overflowing, as
>> always !!) and see if I can see what lights it
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
> Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
> just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl. And
> even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear. When
> you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special tool?
> The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the buckles
> apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new display
> is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me want to
> try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be some bad
> soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out of the
> blue, no reason.
>
> Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB unit
> with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but I'll
> have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.
>
>

You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although some
replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.

The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but you
have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a piece of
thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or something - it
may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off from the front.
You have to get into the small crack between the glass of the touchscreen,
and the metal case back, where it curves around to meet the glass. The LCD
display, and touchscreen glass are fitted together into a thin plastic
'frame' that completely surrounds the four edges, and it is to this frame
that the case is clipped. So, once you have started to insert your springing
tool, before you have gone in too far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it
in towards the screen, so that the inserted end is moving away from the
crack. The tool tip will then slide down the outside of the thin frame,
inside the metal cover. Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool
back up away from the screen, and this will flex the metal case off the
plastic frame. Once it has started to open like this, it's just a case then
of following round the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion
that's critical if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get
between the thin plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case
off, you will instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...

All of the component parts of the display are available for very reasonable
prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a well-stuck-together
assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully get it apart to replace
either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you end up buying a replacement
ready assembled unit.

If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have a
picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin frame
that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool (!) I'm
sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as well.

The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are notorious
for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once you're inside
the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It comes complete on
its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little zif connector, and it
is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid just a few quid delivered for
the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian wonga.

One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the main
board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint. It's
very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you ever do one.
It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you find on the wifi
antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to be, it actually
needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy that it is sitting
squarely over the socket on the main board. It will then go with a really
solid click. If it doesn't do this, your touchscreen will be intermittent or
inoperative when you get the unit all back together. The thing that makes
this final operation tricky to do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the
plug on it, is very short.

With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to struggle
too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.

Arfa

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 6:59 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 17 Feb 2011 02:38:07 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2011.02.16.14.10.58@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 01:55:09 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>>>> Arfa
>>>>
>>>> How is it backlit? is it ccfl ? I don't understand when viewed in
>>>> bright light after the backlight turns off the streak goes away. I
>>>> can take a pic of it and put it on photobucket:
>>>>
>>>> This is with backlight:
>>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
>> cimg0047.jpg>
>>>>
>>>> This is with reflected light only:
>>>> <http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/Electronics/
>> cimg0046.jpg>
>>>>
>>>> As you can easily see the reflected light picture shows no anomaly on
>>>> the screen.
>>>> It's not just a case of the anomaly being too hard to see with
>>>> reflected light.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Hmmm. As you say, the display error does not appear to be there in the
>>> second picture, and I'm not sure just what to make of that. As to how
>>> the things are backlit, to be honest, I'm not sure. I don't think that
>>> it's a ccfl, so possibly LED, but I don't recall the display assembly
>>> being thick enough to accommodate sufficiently powerful LEDs. Unless
>>> someone else knows, I'll see if I can dig the one I replaced a couple
>>> of weeks ago, back out of the workshop bin (un-emptied, and
>>> overflowing, as always !!) and see if I can see what lights it
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>> Yeah it's strange. It almost make me want to think it's LED backlit. I
>> just don't see how those streaks would be there while lit with ccfl.
>> And even when lit if you hold it in strong light the streaks disappear.
>> When you pry apart the buckles that hold the top on, is there a special
>> tool? The green tool in the video looked specialized just to pry the
>> buckles apart on an Ipod. This unit was given to me at no cost so a new
>> display is a definite option but my propensity towards repair makes me
>> want to try to fix it first. If it's somehow LED backlit there might be
>> some bad soldering. The previous owner told me the streaks appeared out
>> of the blue, no reason.
>>
>> Also, have you have an IPod Touch apart? A neighbor kid has a 16 GB
>> unit with an intermittent audio jack. I suppose it's a solder job but
>> I'll have to figure out how to unbuckle it without breaking the glass.
>>
>>
>>
> You don't need any special tool to get the clips to spring - although
> some replacement batteries I've seen advertised, come with that tool to
> facilitate fitting by Joe Public. I use an Excelite scalpel with a blunt
> curved blade. It easily gets in there, and springs the clips.
>
> The Touch is also quite easy to get into, again using the scalpel. but
> you have to be careful not to crack the touchscreen. If you can find a
> piece of thin stiff plastic - maybe an old filed down credit card or
> something - it may be safer for your first attempt. The case springs off
> from the front. You have to get into the small crack between the glass
> of the touchscreen, and the metal case back, where it curves around to
> meet the glass. The LCD display, and touchscreen glass are fitted
> together into a thin plastic 'frame' that completely surrounds the four
> edges, and it is to this frame that the case is clipped. So, once you
> have started to insert your springing tool, before you have gone in too
> far, you need to bend the 'free' end of it in towards the screen, so
> that the inserted end is moving away from the crack. The tool tip will
> then slide down the outside of the thin frame, inside the metal cover.
> Once it has gone down there, you can bend the tool back up away from the
> screen, and this will flex the metal case off the plastic frame. Once it
> has started to open like this, it's just a case then of following round
> the four sides until it's off. It's that first insertion that's critical
> if you are using a metal blade. If you accidentally get between the thin
> plastic frame and the glass, when you try to flex the case off, you will
> instead crack the display. Don't ask me how I know this ...
>
> All of the component parts of the display are available for very
> reasonable prices, but the frame, touchscreen and display form a
> well-stuck-together assembly, and it's a lot of effort to successfully
> get it apart to replace either a broken touchscreen, or display, so you
> end up buying a replacement ready assembled unit.
>
> If you look on that parts site I pointed you at, I think that they have
> a picture of the assembly, so you can see what I mean about the thin
> frame that you have to be on the outside of, when you insert your tool
> (!) I'm sure that there are probably dismantling videos on You Tube, as
> well.
>
> The headphone problem will not be a soldering job. The sockets are
> notorious for going bad (also on Classics). The good news is that once
> you're inside the unit, it is a straightforward job to replace it. It
> comes complete on its own flexiprint, ready to just plug in to a little
> zif connector, and it is extremely reasonably priced. I think I paid
> just a few quid delivered for the last one I got - say $5 in leftpondian
> wonga.
>
> One last thing to watch out for. The touchscreen is connected to the
> main board with an almost microscopic plug on the end of its flexiprint.
> It's very tricky to get it to reconnect correctly the first time you
> ever do one. It's a bit like one of those tiny tiny coax plugs that you
> find on the wifi antenna in laptops, in that delicate as it *appears* to
> be, it actually needs to be pushed *really* firmly once you are happy
> that it is sitting squarely over the socket on the main board. It will
> then go with a really solid click. If it doesn't do this, your
> touchscreen will be intermittent or inoperative when you get the unit
> all back together. The thing that makes this final operation tricky to
> do, is that the flexiprint 'tail' with the plug on it, is very short.
>
> With a bit of care, I wouldn't expect someone of your experience to
> struggle too much with the job. Let us know how you get on with it.
>
> Arfa

Will do mate thanks for taking the time to explain in that detail. it
boosts my confidence tremendously. I'll tackle the 30 tomorrow I'm very
curious just what the damn screen is made of.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wotta Waste - Or eco-bollox at its most ignored ... :-)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a46f9b012ddcb0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 1:26 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <NRF6p.13777$To7.8108@newsfe12.ams2>,
Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> Part of his problem was that he felt that his customers preferred to
> see a brand spanking new board come out of a box, with a shiny new
> manufacturer's warranty.

I very much doubt many customers would watch the boiler being repaired -
or have clue or care what spares were being fitted.

The contract for the repair is with the repair man. He then has a contract
with his spares supplier.

--
*Errors have been made. Others will be blamed.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tandberg 3001 tuner - broken gear
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41676e8b42f2ec52?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 3:21 am
From: do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com

Tim Schwartz wrote:

> I've got a Tandberg 3001 here where the small plastic gear that drives
> the tuning pot (opposite end of the shaft from the tuning drum that the
> dial cord wraps around) has cracked.

Plastic gears can be repaired by melting new nylon or derlin into them
with a soldering iron, even missing teeth, and cracks around the hub
can be prevented from reappearing by pressing a ring of metal around
them.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 1:18 pm
From: Reinhard Zwirner

do_not_spam_me@my-deja.com schrieb:
>
>
> Tim Schwartz wrote:
>
>> I've got a Tandberg 3001 here where the small plastic gear that drives
>> the tuning pot (opposite end of the shaft from the tuning drum that the
>> dial cord wraps around) has cracked.
>
> Plastic gears can be repaired by melting new nylon or derlin into them ...
^^^^^^
Delrin?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Radar detector/scrambler
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/646f5661b2cfc1b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 7:06 am
From: "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com"

On Feb 15, 6:40 pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
> On 2/15/2011 5:20 PM, Mysterious Traveler wrote:
>
> > Video can help keep cops honest.
>
> And there in lies the rub.
>
> Every time something is proposed to make them do their
> job correctly and legally, they throw their hands up, "But
> we can't do our job!" and the assorted unions step in to
> block it as well.
>
> The "management" gets involved and finds new creative ways
> to distort laws to their own purposes to "protect their own."
>
> Jeff

This is all very interesting but can anyone please answer my original
question? IE how they work and how it can be legal? Lenny

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 7:25 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/16/2011 9:06 AM, captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:
> This is all very interesting but can anyone please answer my original
> question? IE how they work and how it can be legal? Lenny

Try this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radar_detector

Jeff

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 9:36 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:32:11 -0800 (PST),
"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

>This type of product is advertised almost everywhere that it helps you
>avoid tickets etc.

Episode 18: Beat the Radar Detector
<http://mythbustersresults.com/episode18>

>I imagine that it must transmit a signal on the
>same freq. as the radar gun at the moment it receives the police
>transmission.

You have a good imagination. The illegal ones are essentially radar
jammers. That's not as easy as it sounds as getting the timing just
right so that it coincides with a radar *PULSE* is tricky. Most
handheld radars now work on several bands simultaneously, making a
universal radar jammer somewhat difficult and expensive to produce.

>Even at low power can this still meet part 15 of the FCC
>rules or any part for that matter?

The FCC fails to appreciate such products:
<http://www.fcc.gov/eb/Orders/2007/DA-07-299A1.html>
<http://www.radarjammer.com/news/fcc-seizure.html>
Note the $25,000 fine. Intentional Part 15 radiators (as opposed to
incidental radiators) are restricted from operating in various bands
(15.205) which include all the radar bands. Nice try.
<http://www.hallikainen.com/FccRules/2010/15/205/>

>I happen to drive slowly but
>millions of people don't.

Careful. I've received a ticket for driving too slowly on the
freeway.

>Can someone please tell me how it works?

How what works? There are dozens of products, varying from crude
jammers to ultra-sophisticated military ECM rehashes. Each works
somewhat differently. This might help:
<http://www.radarjammer.com>

>How
>can something like this product which for all intents and purposes
>"interferes with police business" be legal? Just wondering. Lenny

47 U.S.C. S 333 of the FCC rules clearly states that active radar
jammers are illegal. Note that S 333 is up for revision due to
intentional cell phone jamming in prisons etc.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 10:14 am
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:32:11 -0800 (PST),
"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

>This type of product is advertised almost everywhere that it helps you
>avoid tickets etc. I imagine that it must transmit a signal on the
>same freq. as the radar gun at the moment it receives the police
>transmission. Even at low power can this still meet part 15 of the FCC
>rules or any part for that matter? I happen to drive slowly but
>millions of people don't. Can someone please tell me how it works? How
>can something like this product which for all intents and purposes
>"interferes with police business" be legal? Just wondering. Lenny
One approach was describe several decades ago in a 'build it
yourself' project in 'Radio Electronics' magazine.

Speed radar works by sending a high frequency pulse and comparing the
frequency of the returned signal to the original. The frequency shift
of the return pulse will be proportional to the relative speed of the
radar gun and the object generating the reflection.

The R-E article was for a 'radar gun calibrator'. By taking the
received signal, amplifying it, modulating it, and transmitting only
one of the sidebands, a synthetic 'echo' would be produced with the
precise frequency offset desired.

As far as selling them, don't bother. You can make more money by
selling tinted plastic license plate covers, claiming they will 'fool
photo speed enforcement cameras'. Of course, the real fool with be
the person sending you his money.

PlainBill

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 1:27 pm
From: Jim Yanik

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:fi1ol6han0k9gns4174betgf35fbt7o6a6@4ax.com:

> On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:32:11 -0800 (PST),
> "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>This type of product is advertised almost everywhere that it helps you
>>avoid tickets etc.
>
> Episode 18: Beat the Radar Detector
><http://mythbustersresults.com/episode18>
>
>>I imagine that it must transmit a signal on the
>>same freq. as the radar gun at the moment it receives the police
>>transmission.
>
> You have a good imagination. The illegal ones are essentially radar
> jammers. That's not as easy as it sounds as getting the timing just
> right so that it coincides with a radar *PULSE* is tricky. Most
> handheld radars now work on several bands simultaneously, making a
> universal radar jammer somewhat difficult and expensive to produce.

How are the HANDHELD radar guns multi-band?
they would have to have multiple Gunn oscillators,too.

And more than one feed horn.(antenna)
Most that I've seen on police cars are pretty small units.

AFAIK,most radar guns are Doppler,and the receiver reads the strongest
signal it receives,so transmitting a signal from your "jammer" overpowers
the reflected radargun signal.That jammer signal has to be near in freq
to the gun's signal,or it will be rejected,because it would indicate a
higher speed than the gun will measure or considers reasonable.Then the
speed gun would light it's "interference" indicator.

do you have any information on or links to these multi-band radar speed
guns?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 1:31 pm
From: Jim Yanik

PlainBill@yawhoo.com wrote in
news:nr3ol6te9k33gc1snf8rnalpep446dqt8d@4ax.com:

> On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 08:32:11 -0800 (PST),
> "captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>This type of product is advertised almost everywhere that it helps you
>>avoid tickets etc. I imagine that it must transmit a signal on the
>>same freq. as the radar gun at the moment it receives the police
>>transmission. Even at low power can this still meet part 15 of the FCC
>>rules or any part for that matter? I happen to drive slowly but
>>millions of people don't. Can someone please tell me how it works? How
>>can something like this product which for all intents and purposes
>>"interferes with police business" be legal? Just wondering. Lenny
> One approach was describe several decades ago in a 'build it
> yourself' project in 'Radio Electronics' magazine.
>
> Speed radar works by sending a high frequency pulse and comparing the
> frequency of the returned signal to the original. The frequency shift
> of the return pulse will be proportional to the relative speed of the
> radar gun and the object generating the reflection.
>
> The R-E article was for a 'radar gun calibrator'. By taking the
> received signal, amplifying it, modulating it, and transmitting only
> one of the sidebands, a synthetic 'echo' would be produced with the
> precise frequency offset desired.
>
> As far as selling them, don't bother. You can make more money by
> selling tinted plastic license plate covers, claiming they will 'fool
> photo speed enforcement cameras'. Of course, the real fool with be
> the person sending you his money.
>
> PlainBill
>

one "calibrator" I've seen was a simple one transistor oscillator,and it
was for checking radar DETECTORS.
at a short range,it would set off X-band detectors.
IIRC,it used a MF914 transistor and stripline PCB. or maybe MF912....

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 4:39 pm
From: PeterD

On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 07:06:14 -0800 (PST),
"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Feb 15, 6:40�pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
>> On 2/15/2011 5:20 PM, Mysterious Traveler wrote:
>>
>> > Video can help keep cops honest.
>>
>> And there in lies the rub.
>>
>> Every time something is proposed to make them do their
>> job correctly and legally, they throw their hands up, "But
>> we can't do our job!" and the assorted unions step in to
>> block it as well.
>>
>> The "management" gets involved and finds new creative ways
>> to distort laws to their own purposes to "protect their own."
>>
>> Jeff
>
>This is all very interesting but can anyone please answer my original
>question? IE how they work and how it can be legal? Lenny

OK, the answer... 1. They don't typically work, and 2. they are not
legal.

In theory one could build a jammer circuit, that would work with one
specific brand/mdel of radar gun, however such a system may not work
with other brands or models, and as well any attempt would violate
federal law absolutely and many states also have prohibitions against
such devices.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: INDIAN ACTRESS SPICY VIDEOS.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/15cf94ef5434e3c1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 7:32 am
From: Hot Hot

See hot sexy actress AISHWARYA spicy videos and Spicy images,BIPASA
BASU Hot videos,KATRINA KAIF HOT bikini show videos,VIDHYABALAN dating
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hp color laser CP1515 toner memory error
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/89c28e605d9a116d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 10:07 am
From: kwamena banson

I just bought a set toner (black, red, yelow and blue) for my HP color
laser CP1515, after just one test print the printer can not print
again and is saying yellow toner memory error. I dont know whether its
the small chip on the toner that its talking about.
Another problem is when I insert the old yellow toner it says the
toner is empty mean while there is enougth toner in it.
I will be v. happy with any help. THANKS.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 1:32 pm
From: Archon

On 2/16/2011 1:07 PM, kwamena banson wrote:
> I just bought a set toner (black, red, yelow and blue) for my HP color
> laser CP1515, after just one test print the printer can not print
> again and is saying yellow toner memory error. I dont know whether its
> the small chip on the toner that its talking about.
> Another problem is when I insert the old yellow toner it says the
> toner is empty mean while there is enougth toner in it.
> I will be v. happy with any help. THANKS.
I have a CP1518, try the supplies overide option, you will find there is
usually lots of toner left.
JC

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Washing machine motor won't start, bad triac ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96d2b3fb706b3e62?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 10:40 am
From: kwamena banson

On Feb 13, 9:32 am, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> Washer/dryer motors in the U.S. have traditionally been induction motors,
> but apparently, universal/brush motors have/are commonly utilized in Europe
> (and maybe elsewhere) for washer motors.
> I found this out the way you did, years ago, by reading SER posts.
>
> Generally, universal motors are cheaper to manufacture, more compact and can
> operate at higher speeds than common 1750/3600 RPM AC induction motors.
>
> Some applications that were typically AC induction motors here in the U.S.
> are being replaced by universal motors.. table saws, for example.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
> "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote in message
>
> news:z6S5p.5033$Gq3.3442@newsfe09.iad...
>
> > Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> >> On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 22:20:34 -0500, Jamie
> >> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
>
> >>>I didn't know washing machines had brushed motors?
>
> >> See video showing washing machine brushes and how to replace them.
To be very sure you disconect the motor and test it on the mains at a
reduced voltage.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: job in Pittsburgh
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/205787732b655913?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 12:57 pm
From: GS

I am leaving my position, and its hard to find any Biomedical
technicians with
some experience. Check University of Pittsburgh job listings.

greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Intels 1 billion mistake
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6d28be07e85250d5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 3:06 pm
From: Joe

In article <ii9em9$h2t$1@speranza.aioe.org>,
bob urz <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote:

> http://mbtmag.com/Content.aspx?id=1937
>
> bob

Typical asinine reporting. There is *no date* on that article, Just
mentions of "Monday", "January" and "February" without even a mention of
*which year*.

I guess we can all ASSume that the article is current, but what kind of
sucky publisher puts out "news" articles without a date?

Oh wait, below the bottom of the article is the line

Dumbasses.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ROMANTIC IMAGES FOR YOUTH
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2cfa56f269537703?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 16 2011 5:04 pm
From: Hot Hot

See hot sexy actress AISHWARYA spicy videos and Spicy images,BIPASA
BASU Hot videos,KATRINA KAIF HOT bikini show videos,VIDHYABALAN dating
videos At http://today100spicyvideos.co.cc

==============================================================================

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