sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony XR-C5300, car radio -failed tuner block
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1957e53a2d1f64bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 12:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4d4f48ea$0$29669$c3e8da3$92d0a893@news.astraweb.com...
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:iijkvl$g3t$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > Owner likes the 2 SW bands, other than find a broken one or related
model
> > also with the same tuner TUX-020 , any ideas?
> > Courtesy of some Danish and Polish threads someone found out that the 80
> > pin
> > Philips tuner IC TEA6842H is likely the same as the one badged Sony
> > 8-759-653-23 in this tuner. All DC at the tuner 19 pins agree with Sony
> > Schema and rails, Xtal lines etc agree with the TEA... datasheet. There
is
> > local Xtal osc, serial data and clock line signals on engaging "SEEK" ,
> > front display shows changing f but the TEA pin 42 tuning V stays at
> > 0.045V.
> > Nothing amiss DVMing around the variable cap diode , pushing IC pins if
> > loose, and no bad ESR local caps. Whatever occured happened in a garage
> > during a cold spell of weather, vehicle rarely used.
> >
> >
>
>
> Try bringing in an external tuning voltage. If by varying this voltage you
> can get an IF output from the front end (and receive a channel at that
> point...) then you know the front end transistors etc are OK and you
either
> have a bad PLL chip or no oscillator sample going to the PLL chip.
>
> Mark Z.
>

I was going to try a 20 turn preset Saturday but got waylaid - a job for
today. Everything checked ,so far, pinning-wise has agreed with the TEA
datasheet and they are available but
a/ no confirmation that the Sony and TEA are the same
b/ desoldering 80 pin .5mm spacing IC is fine , it is the soldering in of
the new one I would be wary of, despite my express removal technique leaves
an alignment "ghost" in the original solder pattern.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 6:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

20 turn 25K preset and 4K7 to the cathode of the varicap something like
BB156 marked F4 so probably HVC383B . AM and FM stations come in , so VCO
etc ok. Display showing bottom of the band of course. Another possibility is
corrupted serial link data between master controller and this TEA tuner IC

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:00 am
From: Chuck

On Sun, 6 Feb 2011 19:20:39 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
<mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:iijkvl$g3t$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Owner likes the 2 SW bands, other than find a broken one or related model
>> also with the same tuner TUX-020 , any ideas?
>> Courtesy of some Danish and Polish threads someone found out that the 80
>> pin
>> Philips tuner IC TEA6842H is likely the same as the one badged Sony
>> 8-759-653-23 in this tuner. All DC at the tuner 19 pins agree with Sony
>> Schema and rails, Xtal lines etc agree with the TEA... datasheet. There is
>> local Xtal osc, serial data and clock line signals on engaging "SEEK" ,
>> front display shows changing f but the TEA pin 42 tuning V stays at
>> 0.045V.
>> Nothing amiss DVMing around the variable cap diode , pushing IC pins if
>> loose, and no bad ESR local caps. Whatever occured happened in a garage
>> during a cold spell of weather, vehicle rarely used.
>>
>>
>
>
>Try bringing in an external tuning voltage. If by varying this voltage you
>can get an IF output from the front end (and receive a channel at that
>point...) then you know the front end transistors etc are OK and you either
>have a bad PLL chip or no oscillator sample going to the PLL chip.
>
>Mark Z.

Just one more thing to check. Once you tune in a station, remove the
tuning voltage source. If the station stays tuned for a few seconds,
then you'll know the problem isn't caused by leaky varicaps. If the
frequency immediately drifts, the varicaps need to be replaced. Chuck

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:07 am
From: "N_Cook"

Chuck <ch@deja.net> wrote in message
news:lu10l616sepoipln3jfs04c0175uk489fv@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 6 Feb 2011 19:20:39 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
> <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> >news:iijkvl$g3t$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> Owner likes the 2 SW bands, other than find a broken one or related
model
> >> also with the same tuner TUX-020 , any ideas?
> >> Courtesy of some Danish and Polish threads someone found out that the
80
> >> pin
> >> Philips tuner IC TEA6842H is likely the same as the one badged Sony
> >> 8-759-653-23 in this tuner. All DC at the tuner 19 pins agree with Sony
> >> Schema and rails, Xtal lines etc agree with the TEA... datasheet. There
is
> >> local Xtal osc, serial data and clock line signals on engaging "SEEK" ,
> >> front display shows changing f but the TEA pin 42 tuning V stays at
> >> 0.045V.
> >> Nothing amiss DVMing around the variable cap diode , pushing IC pins if
> >> loose, and no bad ESR local caps. Whatever occured happened in a garage
> >> during a cold spell of weather, vehicle rarely used.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >Try bringing in an external tuning voltage. If by varying this voltage
you
> >can get an IF output from the front end (and receive a channel at that
> >point...) then you know the front end transistors etc are OK and you
either
> >have a bad PLL chip or no oscillator sample going to the PLL chip.
> >
> >Mark Z.
>
>
> Just one more thing to check. Once you tune in a station, remove the
> tuning voltage source. If the station stays tuned for a few seconds,
> then you'll know the problem isn't caused by leaky varicaps. If the
> frequency immediately drifts, the varicaps need to be replaced. Chuck

Interesting point to check, willdo

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:59 am
From: "N_Cook"

Incidently the radio data system works back to the display so even less
likely corrupted serial link going the other way.
Cutting my applied tuning voltage , the station goes off tune immediately.
I've not managed to get my head around the control system - a chicken and
egg situation ? Could a leaky varicap lead ,around the houses , to failure
to have an applied tuning voltage through the chain of VCO / PPL etc ?

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 10:28 am
From: Chuck

On Mon, 7 Feb 2011 15:59:32 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>Chuck <ch@deja.net> wrote in message
>news:lu10l616sepoipln3jfs04c0175uk489fv@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 6 Feb 2011 19:20:39 -0600, "Mark Zacharias"
>> <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> >"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>> >news:iijkvl$g3t$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >> Owner likes the 2 SW bands, other than find a broken one or related
>model
>> >> also with the same tuner TUX-020 , any ideas?
>> >> Courtesy of some Danish and Polish threads someone found out that the
>80
>> >> pin
>> >> Philips tuner IC TEA6842H is likely the same as the one badged Sony
>> >> 8-759-653-23 in this tuner. All DC at the tuner 19 pins agree with Sony
>> >> Schema and rails, Xtal lines etc agree with the TEA... datasheet. There
>is
>> >> local Xtal osc, serial data and clock line signals on engaging "SEEK" ,
>> >> front display shows changing f but the TEA pin 42 tuning V stays at
>> >> 0.045V.
>> >> Nothing amiss DVMing around the variable cap diode , pushing IC pins if
>> >> loose, and no bad ESR local caps. Whatever occured happened in a garage
>> >> during a cold spell of weather, vehicle rarely used.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >Try bringing in an external tuning voltage. If by varying this voltage
>you
>> >can get an IF output from the front end (and receive a channel at that
>> >point...) then you know the front end transistors etc are OK and you
>either
>> >have a bad PLL chip or no oscillator sample going to the PLL chip.
>> >
>> >Mark Z.
>>
>>
>> Just one more thing to check. Once you tune in a station, remove the
>> tuning voltage source. If the station stays tuned for a few seconds,
>> then you'll know the problem isn't caused by leaky varicaps. If the
>> frequency immediately drifts, the varicaps need to be replaced. Chuck
>
>Incidently the radio data system works back to the display so even less
>likely corrupted serial link going the other way.
>Cutting my applied tuning voltage , the station goes off tune immediately.
>I've not managed to get my head around the control system - a chicken and
>egg situation ? Could a leaky varicap lead ,around the houses , to failure
>to have an applied tuning voltage through the chain of VCO / PPL etc ?
>

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking, but if there was leakage
that caused the tuned frequency to drift immediately, we mainly
replaced the whole tuner. (The VT line must be disconnected at the VT
terminal on the tuner before doing this test.) Exceptions were
Pioneer tuners or RCA televisions where the tuner was a section of the
main board. Of course, any part which can go leaky on the VT line can
cause this symptom. Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Laptop not charging.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f52116e8141f1a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 4:50 am
From: Bob Villa

Well Tim, now I know what "estate" means (station wagon) and the
"Sierra" and "Cierra" names belong to GM in the States.
We have 2 cars...a Buick LaSabre (considered an old man's car) it's
large with excellent mileage (35mi/gal). The other is a 16 yr old
Saturn (the beater).
With the Buick, and its electronic readouts I realize how much gas we
waste "getting up to speed". If everyone "actually" knew how much gas
they were wasting "with a heavy foot" we would save an immense amount
of "petrol"!

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 8:21 am
From: T i m

On Mon, 7 Feb 2011 04:50:59 -0800 (PST), Bob Villa
<pheeh.zero@gmail.com> wrote:

>Well Tim,

Hello ;-)

> now I know what "estate" means (station wagon)

We used to have styles we called 'Countryman' I would more typically
associate with what would come to mind when you said 'station wagon.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/43/Mini_countryman.jpg
http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1967-Austin-Mini-Minor-Traveller-RA.htm
http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1282950349_12800

As opposed to an estate which is more like this:

http://www.naturalburialgrounds.com/uploads/images/Misc%20Pics/Family_Estate.jpg
Or even this!
http://classic-car.y2u.co.uk/Photo_caq/Reliant_Rialto_Estate_Car.jpg

but I'm probably thinking about The Waltons. ;-)

>and the
>"Sierra" and "Cierra" names belong to GM in the States.

Ah.

>We have 2 cars...a Buick LaSabre (considered an old man's car) it's
>large with excellent mileage (35mi/gal).

I have what sounds like the equivalent, a Rover 218SD. Nearer 50 UKmpg
though.

> The other is a 16 yr old
>Saturn (the beater).

>With the Buick, and its electronic readouts I realize how much gas we
>waste "getting up to speed". If everyone "actually" knew how much gas
>they were wasting "with a heavy foot" we would save an immense amount
>of "petrol"!

;-)

Our company had a basic Ford Escort 1.1 (hatchback) that had 'economy'
lights. Basically they were just connected to sensors on the inlet
manifold and measured the vacuum. Green was good, amber you were
pushing a bit and red, well. If you were bothered it was actually
quite revealing (as you say) with even a slight headwind or incline
seeing the lights go from green to amber as you automatically
compensated with your right foot to keep the road speed constant (and
noting you couldn't do with a vacuum gauge of course). ;-)

And as they say 'you can manage what you can measure'.

Getting back on topic I guess that's partly why I got into electronics
at a fairly early age (17). For most people 'electricity' is invisible
but with the right tools (scopes, DMM, magnetic pickups, frequency
counters and spectrum analysers etc etc) it often becomes very visual.
Add to that Ohms law and an understanding of basic components and you
are away.

Not quite the same for digital I don't think. Plug in diagnostic
interface and click on 'Run'. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 3:49 pm
From: who where

On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 01:37:39 +0000, T i m <news@spaced.me.uk> wrote:

>On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 08:54:59 +0800, who where <noone@home.net> wrote:
>
>
>>>But yes, bring on the 'generic / modular' laptop (so it works more
>>>like desktop clones) where not just things like optical drives can be
>>>swapped between brands (and CPUs, RAM, HDDs etc) but system boards,
>>>chargers and batteries.
>>
>>Have been watching this thread with some interest. We travel with a
>>Dell Vostro 1400 (Aug08 delivery), and in late 2008 we left the PSU
>>behind in sthn Calif. Noticed its absence in Vegas, and happened upon
>>a pooter shop who had new generic (non-Dell-branded) PSU's at a decent
>>price compared to the genuine Dell product.
>
>Ok.
>
>> On first use - as they
>>explained - the Vostro reported a non-genuine PSU but has worked fine
>>for the last two years.
>
>Including charging the battery you mean?

Yes

==============================================================================
TOPIC: remote control keypad conductivity repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b03ab352dcfc1b2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 5:15 am
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 6 Feb 2011 19:59:06 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
<twillia0@gmail.com> wrote:

>> Here is the link to a product specifically made for fixing conductive
>> keypads.http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-K-CK44-G-/200...
>>
>> It works... I've used it.
>> --
>> David
>
>I tried it ( Caikote 44 ). It worked fine for a couple weeks, then
>several of the keys died. Disappointing.

Try Neolube. http://www.micromark.com/NEOLUBE-2-FL-OZ,8383.html. I'm
most familiar with it for [redacted] the [redacted] in the [redacted]
but it also works well for regenerating those conductive pads in
remotes. Proper surface preparation is key, of course.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Eco - windmills ... (bit OT)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a12dc199597830ae?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 5:22 am
From: PeterD

On Sat, 5 Feb 2011 05:29:26 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>
>Fact: There are too many people. If population continues to grow unchecked,
>"something" will eventually happen to reduce it -- global war, starvation,
>economic collapse, perhaps things we haven't anticipated. THE EARTH DOES NOT
>HAVE AN UNLIMITED CARRYING CAPACITY. We can choose to do something rational
>about it -- or ignore it.
>

And virtually everyone either ignores this problem, or feels helpless
to do anything.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 6:44 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Fact: There are too many people. If population continues to grow
>> unchecked, "something" will eventually happen to reduce it --
>> global war, starvation, economic collapse, perhaps things we
>> haven't anticipated. THE EARTH DOES NOT HAVE AN UNLIMITED
>> CARRYING CAPACITY. We can choose to do something rational
>> about it -- or ignore it.

> And virtually everyone either ignores this problem, or feels helpless
> to do anything.

Two other views which have been expressed here:

Doing anything is an affront to personal freedom.

Anything we do will have undesirable side-effects, so we should do nothing.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 11:03 am
From: Jim Yanik

PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
news:fesvk6p69klaqtc0v3tbk5lafvlar1fq2n@4ax.com:

> On Sat, 5 Feb 2011 05:29:26 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
><grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Fact: There are too many people. If population continues to grow
>>unchecked, "something" will eventually happen to reduce it -- global
>>war, starvation, economic collapse, perhaps things we haven't
>>anticipated.

Plague.

>>THE EARTH DOES NOT HAVE AN UNLIMITED CARRYING CAPACITY.
>>We can choose to do something rational about it -- or ignore it.
>>
>
> And virtually everyone either ignores this problem, or feels helpless
> to do anything.
>

First,I don't believe we are anywhere close to the "carrying capacity" of
the Earth. Some places are jam packed,others are sparsely populated.

WHAT to "do" about "excess population",and how do "we" determine HOW MANY
people "we" are going to allow for any particular region?
Who gets to be the "we"?
IMO,that's starting to get a bit "Big Brother-ish". It's CREEPY.
I see parallels to Soylent Green.

Most places don't even use good farming techniques,wasting or depleting a
lot of arable land. South America is stripping the rainforests,slash and
burn,for uses the land is not suitable for.
many places around the world still burn wood for cooking and heating.
I saw on "Martin Yan's China"(PBS-TV) where their people outside of the
cities are burning the waste stalks from rice and wheat harvests for their
cooking. so much for "carbon control"....

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 11:18 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> THE EARTH DOES NOT HAVE AN UNLIMITED CARRYING CAPACITY.
>> We can choose to do something rational about it -- or ignore it.

> First, I don't believe we are anywhere close to the "carrying capacity" of
> the Earth. Some places are jam packed,others are sparsely populated.

No, we're not close to it. So we're supposed to wait until things get so bad
we no longer have any rational alternatives?

> WHAT to "do" about "excess population",and how do "we" determine
> HOW MANY people "we" are going to allow for any particular region?
> Who gets to be the "we"?
> IMO, that's starting to get a bit "Big Brother-ish". It's CREEPY.
> I see parallels to Soylent Green.

I agree. That's why I suggested (I think) that everyone, everywhere, be
forced to limit the size of their family to two children.

If people everywhere would start talking about it, we might come to a
consensus, perhaps even without getting government involved. Of course, what
do you do about people who adore children, and want to have huge families?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is the fifth transistor likely for?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cbdab6f7f9577f6d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 6:43 am
From: mm

I was junking a moderately priced combo CD, AM/FM/Casette, from 1998,
that I got out of the trash and which wouldn't play CDs anymore, and
it had an array of five output trnasisttors, instead of the usual
four. All are the same size, on one big heat sink. No schematic
of course.

The part numbers are obscured but I can see the ends of several.
1 B1370
2 B1020
3 B1415 (or 01415, or D1415, or ?1415
4 B1020 same as 2
5 same as 3

What is the fifth transistor likely for?

Don't put a lot of work in to this. The device is junked/trashed
already.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:23 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Temperature compensation for the bias? (This seems unlikely, as the devices
would be silicon. But who knows?)

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 9:17 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"mm" <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:oo00l6l3hjbh87osgsvpkfe26isedqjhko@4ax.com...
> I was junking a moderately priced combo CD, AM/FM/Casette, from 1998,
> that I got out of the trash and which wouldn't play CDs anymore, and
> it had an array of five output trnasisttors, instead of the usual
> four. All are the same size, on one big heat sink. No schematic
> of course.
>
> The part numbers are obscured but I can see the ends of several.
> 1 B1370
> 2 B1020
> 3 B1415 (or 01415, or D1415, or ?1415
> 4 B1020 same as 2
> 5 same as 3
>
> What is the fifth transistor likely for?
>
> Don't put a lot of work in to this. The device is junked/trashed
> already.

Might be nothing at all to do with the output stage. PSU regulator
transistors are often fixed to the same heatsink as the outputs.

Arfa

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 11:01 am
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

> I was junking a moderately priced combo CD, AM/FM/Casette, from 1998,
> that I got out of the trash and which wouldn't play CDs anymore, and
> it had an array of five output trnasisttors, instead of the usual
> four. All are the same size, on one big heat sink. No schematic
> of course.
>
> The part numbers are obscured but I can see the ends of several.
> 1 B1370
> 2 B1020
> 3 B1415 (or 01415, or D1415, or ?1415
> 4 B1020 same as 2
> 5 same as 3
>
> What is the fifth transistor likely for?

The 2SB1020 (PNP) and 2SD1415 (NPN) are complementary pairs of power
transistors... absmax around 100 volts 7 amps. Presumably the "usual
four" that do the current amplification.

The 2SB1370 is a PNP in the same TO-220FP package. It seems to be
spec'ed out as a driver.

I'd lean towards agreeing with the speculation that this is being used
to regulate the output-stage bias voltages or currents somehow - to
provide thermal tracking. This is more commonly done with one or more
diodes in the bias string (one set per channel) but there may have
been some tricky way of doing it with a single thermally-coupled
transistor on the heatsink which was simpler and/or cheaper to
implement.

Maybe (and this is sheer speculation in the fact of an acute lack of
schematic) this one transistor controls two separate idle/bias strings
via a current-mirror arrangement of some sort?

Or, maybe it's just a "Whoops, too hot!" emergency shutoff switch
circuit, to keep the player from going into thermal runaway if the
owner tries to bend metal and break walls by turning the poor beast up
to 11?

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: surges slowly destroying
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97cd7b53147e2809?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:04 am
From: mm

On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 16:58:51 +0000, Fred <nobody@home.com> wrote:

>sparky <sparky12x@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ae98d763-38da-4ad9-9c7a-
>f8d6d5817fe9@f18g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
>
>> You can use them as long as you never want to use an AM radio at the
>> same time.
>>
Not always a problem I'm sure.
>
>Not a problem as there's nothing on AM radio to listen to any more.....

That's for sure. What a shame. And now, even if there were something
interesting, I'm no longer used to the endless commercials.
>
>http://www.radiosure.com/
>http://www.shoutcast.com/
>http://last.fm/

http://player.radio.com/player/AOLPlayer.php

>Who needs AM radio??

Thanks for the list.

Also, AOL radio, to which I'm listening now:
http://player.radio.com/player/AOLPlayer.php
Maybe one or two commercial minutes an hour, perhaps dependent on time
of day. I wonder if that will increase.

About 50 or 100 genres iirc, many stations in each one, thousands
altogether. It remembers which station you were listening to plus you
can set others as clickable presets. Music, news, Sports, Favorites.

What I don't understand: If I put it on pause for 20 minutes, it
starts up again right where it left off, in the middle of a song. It
continues wihtout a jerk, and I don't think it's playing just what was
in my my buffer. Also, when I first start it, it always begins at the
start of a song. Plus I don't use it, but it has the ability to skip
a song or more. It's as if I have my own personal stream, instead of
just listneing to what it sends everyone else who is on that channel.

How can that be? Doesn't this take many times more processes
running and more cpu's to run them all? And many times more RAM for
many times more output buffers?

And why bother? Wouldn't it be simpler and cheaper and just as good
to play one thing for each of the thousands of stations/channels, and
let everyone on that station listen to it?

I bought 2 pairs of very old stock RCA wireless speakers. One each in
my bedroom, kitchen, basement, and bathroom. I don't care much about
stereo. I don't see RCA anymore, but Best Buy has something for 100
dollars a pair. A lot more than mine were at full price, but if I
didn't have these, I'd buy them.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 7:22 am
From: mm

On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 16:58:51 +0000, Fred <nobody@home.com> wrote:

>sparky <sparky12x@yahoo.com> wrote in news:ae98d763-38da-4ad9-9c7a-
>f8d6d5817fe9@f18g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
>
>> You can use them as long as you never want to use an AM radio at the
>> same time.
>>
>>
>
>Not a problem as there's nothing on AM radio to listen to any more.....
>
>http://www.radiosure.com/
>http://www.shoutcast.com/
>http://last.fm/

I notice that radiosure has to be downloaded. Do radiossure or
shoutcast have any drawbacks, like requiring a tool bar or anything?

>Who needs AM radio??

BTW, NPR in Dallas had programming made in California, or somewhere
west of texas that I never hear from in Baltimore or DC. I think
there may be quite a bit on western public radio that isn't on in the
east. I keep planning to listen via the web but never remmeber.

Please, everyone, let me know if this turns out to be true.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Blinkind LED Error code on Sharp Aquos LC32-LE700 TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8aa68af07f403f2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 8:48 am
From: benitos

What I did so far :

-unplug the TV
-Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time
-Plug TV

TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.

When turning off with power button , POWER & OPC Led blinked 2 times
togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .

What does this code mean ?

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 11:03 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 07 Feb 2011 08:48:38 -0800, benitos wrote:

> What I did so far :
>
> -unplug the TV
> -Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time -Plug TV
>
> TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>
> When turning off with power button , POWER & OPC Led blinked 2 times
> togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>
> What does this code mean ?

Still no clues? Are you a TV repair man? LK on screen indicates a Sharp
panel. LGD would mean LG. Think I read that somewhere a while back. Sorry
but you probably need specific help from Sharp tech.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 1:28 pm
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com

On Mon, 7 Feb 2011 08:48:38 -0800 (PST), benitos <pothier@cae.ca>
wrote:

>What I did so far :
>
>-unplug the TV
>-Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time
>-Plug TV
>
>TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>
>When turning off with power button , POWER & OPC Led blinked 2 times
>togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>
>What does this code mean ?

When in doubt, check the service manual.
http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=&megnev2=LC32-LE700&kategoria=&kat2=all

PlainBill

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mitsubishi Diamond Plus 200 insufficient blue
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/539a9aa244a2d23f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 8:56 am
From: kpgpbhdw@kpgpbhdw.com

On Sat, 5 Feb 2011 15:09:03 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Feb 2, 4:09 pm, kpgpb...@kpgpbhdw.com wrote:
>> I just got an old 22" Mitsubishi Diamond Plus 200 CRT monitor.
>> The previous owner said that the picture was "greenish".
>> He didn't say anything else about it.
>>
>> The problem is that the blue color is about one tenth as bright as it
>> should be
>
> Well, I'd start with centering the blue control, maybe the red and
> green
> too, then readjust the high voltage "screen" or "G2". You need a
> grey-bars
> test signal to readjust the color (first diddle the RGB offsets, to
> get
> the darkest bar neutral gray, then change the RGB gains to make
> the lightest bar neutral).
>
> Some monitors do a lot of this through software, but removing the case
> back and poking in with small adjustment screwdrivers is the usual
> procedure. Beware the high voltage (anode) wire; your adjustments
> have to be made with power ON.

I don't see any hardware RGB adjusters. I've only used the software
controls.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV man....
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/12ddc780783c3840?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 7 2011 11:42 am
From: bob urz

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/762626262/tv-man-the-search-for-the-last-independent-dealer

bob

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