sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bakelite Asbestos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b0be07665d15373b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 10 2011 7:17 pm
From: LSMFT

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> By some accounts the original bakelite was up to half asbestos (which kind?
> WHite or blue?). I saw online some electrical outlets made of bakelite, and I
> was wondering if it really is bakelite, and if so if there is a new bakelite
> without asbestos? ANy clues?
>
>
> - = -
> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
> http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
> [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
> [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
>
>
>
>
Only worry if it's fluffy bakelite.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What semiconductor hides behind code H72P?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/14f42ec4034ae083?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:05 am
From: "N_Cook"

petrus bitbyter <petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4d5427d4$0$18228$e4fe514c@dreader16.news.xs4all.nl...
> So I have an SMD semiconductor - most likely a transistor - in a SOT-223
> package marked H72P. Found several lists of SMD semicondector codes on the
> net but no H72P. Anyone knows what kind of beast I'm dealing with?
>
> petrsu bitbyter
>
>

XC6202PH72PB V. reg. can come in a SOT223 package

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:45 am
From: John-Del

On Feb 10, 1:01 pm, "petrus bitbyter" <petrus.bitby...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> So I have an SMD semiconductor - most likely a transistor - in a SOT-223
> package marked H72P. Found several lists of SMD semicondector codes on the
> net but no H72P. Anyone knows what kind of beast I'm dealing with?
>
> petrsu bitbyter

What I do is look for another device just like it elsewhere on the
board. Hopefully there is at least one more. From there, with a dmm
you can find out if it's a transistor, polarity, and whether it has a
resistor internal (digital transistor).

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 12:35 pm
From: "petrus bitbyter"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> schreef in bericht
news:ij2u2l$vjg$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> petrus bitbyter <petrus.bitbyter@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:4d5427d4$0$18228$e4fe514c@dreader16.news.xs4all.nl...
>> So I have an SMD semiconductor - most likely a transistor - in a SOT-223
>> package marked H72P. Found several lists of SMD semicondector codes on
>> the
>> net but no H72P. Anyone knows what kind of beast I'm dealing with?
>>
>> petrsu bitbyter
>>
>>
>
>
> XC6202PH72PB V. reg. can come in a SOT223 package
>
>

Found that one already but it's definitively not the right one.

Thanks anyway

petrus bitbyter

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 12:46 pm
From: "petrus bitbyter"

"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> schreef in bericht
news:d2904773-26c9-486b-8421-1e6f234cdec5@q2g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 10, 1:01 pm, "petrus bitbyter" <petrus.bitby...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> So I have an SMD semiconductor - most likely a transistor - in a SOT-223
> package marked H72P. Found several lists of SMD semicondector codes on the
> net but no H72P. Anyone knows what kind of beast I'm dealing with?
>
> petrsu bitbyter

It's a small board and there's only one one transistor with that mark on it.
It seems to drive a 2SD882 medium power transistor as it's middle leg is
connected to the base of that 2SD882. I have no schematic and I don't like
to reverse engineer the whole board especially as I found too many unknown
components on it. Thanks anyway.

petrus bitbyter

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ``****HOT SEXY PHOTOS&VIDEOS****
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/242469c47f6471ff?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:16 am
From: SAILAJA LOVES U

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Download DIY Home Theater Guide
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d2504d383bfb16ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:17 am
From: chelsia deren

Browsing on internet, I have found DIY Home Theater Guide at
http://www.diy-home-theaters.com. This Guide has best tips and tricks
for construction of a home theater from start to finish. This guide
will save your lot of money that you pay to DIY Home Theater
installing company.

Check http://www.diy-home-theaters.com and download DIY Home Theater
Guide

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nuisance fastners - winge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9108d595e22824ac?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 3:20 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
> "Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>> "Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>> Home
>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>> (that's another story).
>>>>
>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>> were
>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>> a
>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>>>
>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>> $10 fans?
>>>>
>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>> without
>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>>>
>>>> Sylvia.
>>>>
>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>> fields
>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>> made
>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>
>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>> would probably not work much at all.
>
>
> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.

That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.

What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.

Sylvia.

== 2 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:37 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

>
> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.

If it is a shaded-pole induction motor, it will not be possible to run
it in reveres unless you dismantle the whole assembly and put the stator
in the other way around. It would be more effective to get a spare fan
boss and make new blades for it.

(I have made a shaded-pole gramophone motor run backwards, but I had to
completely rebuild it and add extra windings to make it work.)

--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk

== 3 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:56 am
From: kreed

On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>
>
>
> > "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
> >> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
> >>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
> >>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
> >>>> Home
> >>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
> >>>> (that's another story).
>
> >>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
> >>>> were
> >>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
> >>>> a
> >>>> triangular socket in the head.
>
> >>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
> >>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
> >>>> $10 fans?
>
> >>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
> >>>> without
> >>>> knowing what they're doing?
>
> >>>> Sylvia.
>
> >>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
> >>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
> >>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
> >>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
> >>> fields
> >>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
> >>> made
> >>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
> >>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>
> >> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
> >> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
> >> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
> >> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
> >> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
> >> would probably not work much at all.
>
> > If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>
> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>
> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>
> Sylvia.

Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
air intake without the motor in the way ?

== 4 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:12 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 11/02/2011 11:37 PM, Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
> Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>
> If it is a shaded-pole induction motor, it will not be possible to run
> it in reveres unless you dismantle the whole assembly and put the stator
> in the other way around. It would be more effective to get a spare fan
> boss and make new blades for it.

It's not shaded pole. It has two sets of windings perpendicular to each
other, and a capacitor which I believe is in series with one set of
windings.

Sylvia.

== 5 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:18 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>>>> Home
>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>
>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>> were
>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>
>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>
>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>> without
>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>
>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>> fields
>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>> made
>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>
>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>
>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>
>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>
>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>
>> Sylvia.
>
> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
> air intake without the motor in the way ?

The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.

A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.

I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
excessive.

I'm thinking of using box fans instead.

Sylvia.

== 6 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:21 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

> On 11/02/2011 11:37 PM, Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
> > Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> >> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> >> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
> >
> > If it is a shaded-pole induction motor, it will not be possible to run
> > it in reveres unless you dismantle the whole assembly and put the stator
> > in the other way around. It would be more effective to get a spare fan
> > boss and make new blades for it.
>
> It's not shaded pole. It has two sets of windings perpendicular to each
> other, and a capacitor which I believe is in series with one set of
> windings.

In that case it ought to be reversible - but I would still consider
making a replacement fan if you want a reasonably efficient reversed
airflow..

--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk

== 7 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:31 am
From: F Murtz

Sylvia Else wrote:
> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day
>>>>>>> (Coles
>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was
>>>>>>> wired up
>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>>
>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other
>>>>>>> two had
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>>
>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not
>>>>>>> those.
>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for
>>>>>>> repairing these
>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>>
>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>>
>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>
>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and
>>>>>> easily
>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I
>>>>>> believe the
>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle
>>>>>> of an
>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>> fields
>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>> made
>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>>
>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making
>>>>> it run
>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do
>>>>> perform.
>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades
>>>>> would be
>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result
>>>>> that it
>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>>
>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>>
>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>>
>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>
> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
> During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
> temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
> drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>
> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.
>
> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> Sylvia.
If is is only for a short time, get a cheap ceiling fan and bung it in a
bit of thin mdf and have it suck in instead of out.Or whichever way you
fancy.

== 8 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:38 am
From: kreed

On Feb 11, 11:18 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> >> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>
> >>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
> >>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
> >>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>>>news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
> >>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
> >>>>>> Home
> >>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
> >>>>>> (that's another story).
>
> >>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
> >>>>>> were
> >>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
> >>>>>> a
> >>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>
> >>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
> >>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
> >>>>>> $10 fans?
>
> >>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
> >>>>>> without
> >>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>
> >>>>>> Sylvia.
>
> >>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
> >>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
> >>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
> >>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
> >>>>> fields
> >>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
> >>>>> made
> >>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
> >>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>
> >>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
> >>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
> >>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
> >>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
> >>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
> >>>> would probably not work much at all.
>
> >>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>
> >> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>
> >> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> >> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> >> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>
> >> Sylvia.
>
> > Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
> > rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
> > air intake without the motor in the way ?
>
> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
> During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
> temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
> drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>

> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.
>
> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> Sylvia.

We had the same problem, I put a Woolies pedestal fan right in front
of the window on the inside, and used it that way. It works well, but
I agree that
if you could mount it in the open window directly it would work a lot
better. Currently
it sits about 25cm inside of the window opening due to the stand.

The box fan would probably be a better idea. Could put a shelf or
something under
the window, and sit it on there.

Another (depending on the amount of air these things move, their
appearance,
and the fact that the shaded pole motor and blade is exposed on the
back)
could be use bathroom type exhaust fan(s) mounted through a piece of
plywood
that sits in the open section of the window. ?

If the window has a good height,
you might be able to try one at the top blowing out the hot air and
one at the bottom blowing in cool ?

== 9 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:48 am
From: kreed

On Feb 11, 11:31 pm, F Murtz <hagg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sylvia Else wrote:
> > On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
> >> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> >>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>
> >>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>>news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
> >>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
> >>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>>>>news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
> >>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day
> >>>>>>> (Coles
> >>>>>>> Home
> >>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was
> >>>>>>> wired up
> >>>>>>> (that's another story).
>
> >>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
> >>>>>>> were
> >>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other
> >>>>>>> two had
> >>>>>>> a
> >>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>
> >>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not
> >>>>>>> those.
> >>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for
> >>>>>>> repairing these
> >>>>>>> $10 fans?
>
> >>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
> >>>>>>> without
> >>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>
> >>>>>>> Sylvia.
>
> >>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and
> >>>>>> easily
> >>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I
> >>>>>> believe the
> >>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle
> >>>>>> of an
> >>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
> >>>>>> fields
> >>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
> >>>>>> made
> >>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean
> >>>>>> and
> >>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>
> >>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
> >>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making
> >>>>> it run
> >>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do
> >>>>> perform.
> >>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades
> >>>>> would be
> >>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result
> >>>>> that it
> >>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>
> >>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>
> >>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>
> >>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
> >>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
> >>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>
> >>> Sylvia.
>
> >> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
> >> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
> >> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>
> > The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
> > During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
> > temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
> > drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>
> > A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> > placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> > way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> > be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> > then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> > I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> > excessive.
>
> > I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> > Sylvia.
>
> If is is only for a short time, get a cheap ceiling fan and bung it in a
> bit of thin mdf and have it suck in instead of out.Or whichever way you
> fancy.

While on the subject of ceiling fans, void those Arlec ones at
Bunnings, they are flat out getting up any
sort of airflow, and the motor is very lightweight. They are also the
first fan I have
ever seen that includes a "blade balancing kit" which includes a few
flat pieces of steel
and double sided tape for mounting them.

Their highest speed setting is about the same as a lowest speed
settings on your standard "airflow" ceiling fan that electricians
usually
install.

== 10 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:55 am
From: F Murtz

kreed wrote:
> On Feb 11, 11:31 pm, F Murtz<hagg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Sylvia Else wrote:
>>> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day
>>>>>>>>> (Coles
>>>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was
>>>>>>>>> wired up
>>>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>
>>>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other
>>>>>>>>> two had
>>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>
>>>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not
>>>>>>>>> those.
>>>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for
>>>>>>>>> repairing these
>>>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>
>>>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>
>>>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and
>>>>>>>> easily
>>>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I
>>>>>>>> believe the
>>>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle
>>>>>>>> of an
>>>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>>>> fields
>>>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>>>> made
>>>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean
>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>
>>>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making
>>>>>>> it run
>>>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do
>>>>>>> perform.
>>>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades
>>>>>>> would be
>>>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result
>>>>>>> that it
>>>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>
>>>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>
>>>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>
>>>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>
>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>>>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>>>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>>
>>> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
>>> During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
>>> temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
>>> drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>>
>>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>>> excessive.
>>
>>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> If is is only for a short time, get a cheap ceiling fan and bung it in a
>> bit of thin mdf and have it suck in instead of out.Or whichever way you
>> fancy.
>
>
> While on the subject of ceiling fans, void those Arlec ones at
> Bunnings, they are flat out getting up any
> sort of airflow, and the motor is very lightweight. They are also the
> first fan I have
> ever seen that includes a "blade balancing kit" which includes a few
> flat pieces of steel
> and double sided tape for mounting them.
>
> Their highest speed setting is about the same as a lowest speed
> settings on your standard "airflow" ceiling fan that electricians
> usually
> install.
>
I may have mislead people I meant ceiling exhaust fan

== 11 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 6:08 am
From: T i m

On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 00:18:39 +1100, Sylvia Else
<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

>The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
>During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
>temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
>drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>
>A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
>I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>excessive.

If we are talking temporary would some the use of some thickish
polythene sheet and gaffa tape be out of the question (to 'join' the
fan to the window opening)?

We have a split unit aircon unit in the (unoccupied) middle bedroom
but with all the bedroom doors open and the landing separated from the
rest of the house via a temporary 'curtain of polythene sheet tacked
to a baton and attached to the ceiling (by just 2 screws) works very
well at cooling all the bedrooms.

And no one here GsAF what it looked like, just that it worked ...
<hmmm, 18 Deg C>

Well, for the 2 weeks we call 'summer' here in the UK anyway. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

== 12 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 6:28 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 12:38 AM, kreed wrote:
> On Feb 11, 11:18 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>
>>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>
>>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>
>>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>
>>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>>> fields
>>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>>> made
>>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>
>>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>
>>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>
>>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>
>>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>
>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>>
>> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
>> During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
>> temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
>> drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>>
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>>
>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>> Sylvia.
>
> We had the same problem, I put a Woolies pedestal fan right in front
> of the window on the inside, and used it that way. It works well, but
> I agree that
> if you could mount it in the open window directly it would work a lot
> better. Currently
> it sits about 25cm inside of the window opening due to the stand.
>
>
> The box fan would probably be a better idea. Could put a shelf or
> something under
> the window, and sit it on there.
>
> Another (depending on the amount of air these things move, their
> appearance,
> and the fact that the shaded pole motor and blade is exposed on the
> back)
> could be use bathroom type exhaust fan(s) mounted through a piece of
> plywood
> that sits in the open section of the window. ?
>
> If the window has a good height,
> you might be able to try one at the top blowing out the hot air and
> one at the bottom blowing in cool ?

Perhaps, though one would have to be concerned that one just ended up
creating a flow from the bottom to the top with little penetration into
the room. Something to experiment with, I suppose.

My thinking is to take two box fans, remove their feet, and attach them
to a wooden frame that can be slotted into the groves normally used by
the horizontally sliding window. It would make something that could be
quickly attached as needed, and equally easily removed when not. Any
spare window space would be blocked off, so that air pumped in would
push other air out of the house wherever it could escape.

BTW, I've been using a box fan to force ventilate an underhouse store
room where he had something of a drain overflow. After running
continously for a month, its bearings are stuffed. Me thinks they're not
designed for that level of use.

Sylvia.

== 13 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 6:33 am
From: F Murtz

kreed wrote:
> On Feb 11, 11:18 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>
>>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>
>>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>
>>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>
>>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>>> fields
>>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>>> made
>>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>
>>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>
>>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>
>>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>
>>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>
>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>>
>> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night.
>> During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even though the
>> temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't
>> drop that much. The problem is lack of air flow.
>>
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>>
>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>> Sylvia.
>
> We had the same problem, I put a Woolies pedestal fan right in front
> of the window on the inside, and used it that way. It works well, but
> I agree that
> if you could mount it in the open window directly it would work a lot
> better. Currently
> it sits about 25cm inside of the window opening due to the stand.
>
>
> The box fan would probably be a better idea. Could put a shelf or
> something under
> the window, and sit it on there.
>
> Another (depending on the amount of air these things move, their
> appearance,
> and the fact that the shaded pole motor and blade is exposed on the
> back)
> could be use bathroom type exhaust fan(s) mounted through a piece of
> plywood

Dont know why I bother ,I new I was invisible.

> that sits in the open section of the window. ?
>
> If the window has a good height,
> you might be able to try one at the top blowing out the hot air and
> one at the bottom blowing in cool ?
>
>

== 14 of 14 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 9:00 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

{...]
> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.

Cardboard box?

--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Roksan Kandy LIII amp , 2 years old
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8516ded236e42d84?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:06 am
From: "N_Cook"

Another problem with this amp. a small DPST 5V relay switches in minor
+/-15V rails but one pole contacts welded closed. Supply side cap 220uF/
25V and switched line has 68uF/35V which is blown on the permanent welded
set of contacts, other rail ok so far. There is 000 ohm resistor down stream
of each contact , any suggestions of ohmage to try replacing it with now
the relay is out for replacement? contacts are 1 amp DC rated and is
probably just supplying 4 dual opamps and no transistors or anything else
active in the phono preamp and tape-in and tape out section. Presumably in
the range 2R to 15R in each rail to limit switch on current. Presumably all
those , user unused , opamps were permanently "powered" unipolar, never
checked phono inputs on initial testing

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Washing machine motor won't start, bad triac ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96d2b3fb706b3e62?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 12:32 pm
From: Andre Majorel

After reflowing everything on the controller board and reseating
the connectors it still won't work.

The motor of the washing machine spins for a few degrees and
stops. You can get it to spin (slowly) by pulling on the belt
but only in one direction ! Lots of sparks inside the motor.

The brushes are good and the motor seems mechanically fine.
I suspect the triac (ST BTB16 600CI). Plausible ?

Thanks in advance.

--
André Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"The object of this year's expedition is to see if we can find
trace of last year's expedition."

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 12:36 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/11/2011 2:32 PM, Andre Majorel wrote:
> After reflowing everything on the controller board and reseating
> the connectors it still won't work.
>
> The motor of the washing machine spins for a few degrees and
> stops. You can get it to spin (slowly) by pulling on the belt
> but only in one direction ! Lots of sparks inside the motor.
>
> The brushes are good and the motor seems mechanically fine.
> I suspect the triac (ST BTB16 600CI). Plausible ?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>

does the motor have a start capacitor and a centrifugal
speed switch to disconnect it?

Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Deoxit on "pots"?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3f743a7dd8ff4bf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:26 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I've been using the DeoxIT products for over 2 decades, and have rarely used
anything else on pots or switches. The products work well enough that I
haven't needed to use anything else.

I don't flood the parts, but instead use a small bottle with a needle tip
for aplying the liquid. This prevents washing the grease out of the shaft
bushing, which then results in a control with no stiffness.

I also use the grease/paste deoxidizer products for pots and switches. When
possible, I'll put a small dollop of grease on the end of a toothpick, and
place the pot wiper in full CW rotation to add a small amount of grease
directly to the wiper, then repeat this in the full CCW position.
After a couple of rotations, the track and wiper are fully lubricated and
preserved.

When I would service VCR mode switches, I'd open the housing and first clean
the swicch tracks with the liquid on a cotton swab, or the angled end of a
cut wooden swab stick to remove all traces of oxidation, then add a small
amounr of grease/paste to the tracks before closing the housing.

Some pots and swiches are sealed, or nearly sealed, and I'll try to get some
liquid inside without disassembling the parts. The liquid migrates thru
small seams fairly easily, so many can be improved with a little patience.

For larger areas of oxidation such as silver-plated XLR pins or other large
parts, I generally use Tarn-X to remove the oxidation, then rinse/wipe with
a water wetted swab. After the parts are dry, I'll briskly rub the part with
a swab with the liquid on it.

I almost never use abrasive materials on items such as relay contacts, as
cleaning them is generally a better practice. For badly pitted contacts,
especially if they carry significant currents, it's better to replace the
part, IMO.
Physical and mechanical faults generally require replacement, since applied
products won't be very effective.

Checking pots and switches with an analog ohm meter will reveal whether the
application of products is successful. Cycling the part numerous times will
typically give a good indication of worthiness.

I started using the liquid fader lube a couple of years ago, and although
the formula is probably different, it seems to act about the same as the
regular liquid. If it's not too difficult, I'll try to get the grease/paste
onto the track, similar to the method for pots.

The liquid products are very effective for lubricating small bearing
surfaces and ball bearing assemblies.. they also work very well for removing
stickers and sticky residues from adhesive tape or other gunk.

I've found that when applied to aged/faded black plastic, they also give the
plastic a dark luster, not just shiney.. and don't leave the plastic
slippery, like silicone or Armorall-type products.

As far as the comments regarding WD40, some folks just couldn't live without
that stuff, but the best use for it is as a degreaser.. stoddard solvent.
Oh, and it will attract fish when applied to bait.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnil2hhf.3qc.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
> On another list we have been discussing using Caig DeOxit on pots (e.g.
> Volume, balance, etc controls).
>
> Caig has another product called "Fader Lube", which I assume is designed
> for such a use.
>
> The question I have is has anyone used the regular DeOxit on such controls
> and the results? A web search yielded many hits of people using DeOxit and
> having good results, and even a YouTube videos of it.
>
> It's hard to tell from the postings, and the videos, how many the people
> posting have done. Some of them are obviously people who have done
> one or two, and others are not. I'm interested in hearing long term
> experience.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

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