sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 4 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Deoxit on "pots"? - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3f743a7dd8ff4bf?hl=en
* Nuisance fastners - winge - 18 messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9108d595e22824ac?hl=en
* External Firewire CD Burner - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96c34c4034e31d45?hl=en
* RCA 27F400T Dark Picture - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc03192037c39059?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Deoxit on "pots"?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3f743a7dd8ff4bf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:26 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I've been using the DeoxIT products for over 2 decades, and have rarely used
anything else on pots or switches. The products work well enough that I
haven't needed to use anything else.

I don't flood the parts, but instead use a small bottle with a needle tip
for aplying the liquid. This prevents washing the grease out of the shaft
bushing, which then results in a control with no stiffness.

I also use the grease/paste deoxidizer products for pots and switches. When
possible, I'll put a small dollop of grease on the end of a toothpick, and
place the pot wiper in full CW rotation to add a small amount of grease
directly to the wiper, then repeat this in the full CCW position.
After a couple of rotations, the track and wiper are fully lubricated and
preserved.

When I would service VCR mode switches, I'd open the housing and first clean
the swicch tracks with the liquid on a cotton swab, or the angled end of a
cut wooden swab stick to remove all traces of oxidation, then add a small
amounr of grease/paste to the tracks before closing the housing.

Some pots and swiches are sealed, or nearly sealed, and I'll try to get some
liquid inside without disassembling the parts. The liquid migrates thru
small seams fairly easily, so many can be improved with a little patience.

For larger areas of oxidation such as silver-plated XLR pins or other large
parts, I generally use Tarn-X to remove the oxidation, then rinse/wipe with
a water wetted swab. After the parts are dry, I'll briskly rub the part with
a swab with the liquid on it.

I almost never use abrasive materials on items such as relay contacts, as
cleaning them is generally a better practice. For badly pitted contacts,
especially if they carry significant currents, it's better to replace the
part, IMO.
Physical and mechanical faults generally require replacement, since applied
products won't be very effective.

Checking pots and switches with an analog ohm meter will reveal whether the
application of products is successful. Cycling the part numerous times will
typically give a good indication of worthiness.

I started using the liquid fader lube a couple of years ago, and although
the formula is probably different, it seems to act about the same as the
regular liquid. If it's not too difficult, I'll try to get the grease/paste
onto the track, similar to the method for pots.

The liquid products are very effective for lubricating small bearing
surfaces and ball bearing assemblies.. they also work very well for removing
stickers and sticky residues from adhesive tape or other gunk.

I've found that when applied to aged/faded black plastic, they also give the
plastic a dark luster, not just shiney.. and don't leave the plastic
slippery, like silicone or Armorall-type products.

As far as the comments regarding WD40, some folks just couldn't live without
that stuff, but the best use for it is as a degreaser.. stoddard solvent.
Oh, and it will attract fish when applied to bait.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnil2hhf.3qc.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
> On another list we have been discussing using Caig DeOxit on pots (e.g.
> Volume, balance, etc controls).
>
> Caig has another product called "Fader Lube", which I assume is designed
> for such a use.
>
> The question I have is has anyone used the regular DeOxit on such controls
> and the results? A web search yielded many hits of people using DeOxit and
> having good results, and even a YouTube videos of it.
>
> It's hard to tell from the postings, and the videos, how many the people
> posting have done. Some of them are obviously people who have done
> one or two, and others are not. I'm interested in hearing long term
> experience.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 2:14 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Fred"
>
> I was spending a fortune each year buying products like DeOxit to clean
> organ controls, the thousands of metal to metal contacts before
> everything became conductive rubber. Talking about the price of this
> stuff, which would make you think a pharmaceutical company produced it in
> a lab, he said something to me that simply shocked me.
>
> "Hell, you're wasting your money on all that crap. I've been cleaning
> hifi, PA and organ contacts with WD40, which is very cheap and easy to
> find without going to the most expensive electronic repair company and
> paying their exhorbitant prices. I've been doing it for lots of years
> with no returns or complaints. I think because it leaves a lube residue
> on anything it touches the contacts stayed cleaner because they weren't
> exposed to the moisture in the air."
>
> We both had to fight the horribly humid coastal swamp gas we live in, he
> in NC and I in SC. So, I had some old organs that were just awful coming
> up so I tried it. I used WD40 ever since with fantastic results. It
> makes a 40 year old, almost worn out expression pedal pot work like new
> with audio as smooth as glass. Some of those pots are nearly unobtanium
> because of their queer shafts and mountings.
>
> Another nice thing about WD40 is its effects upon dragging or frozen pot
> bearings, of course. One drop in a pot bearing and you wonder why noone
> did it instead of twisting off the knob!
>
> The new WD40 isn't even flammable any more.

** The propellant gas changed to CO2 decades ago - but the mist and liquid
certainly are flammable if exposed to a flame or sufficient heat. The can is
labelled " Flammable Gas 2".

It is a very bad idea to spray copious amounts of WD40 onto an electrical
switchboards as sometimes fuse and switch contacts get very hot and will
ignite the liquid.

Other than that warning, the stuff is indefensible in the service workshop.
Practically all the griping about it comes from folk who have never tried at
all it or used it in very inappropriate ways.

Anecdote:
------------

A customer told me about an unfortunate incident he had with a can of
"contact cleaner". In order to self treat some intermittent fault in his
tube amp head - he introduced the spray via the input and speaker jack
holes. He pretty much used up the whole damn can. Then he switched on and
the inside of the amp instantly exploded into fames.

Like many such evaporative cleaners - the solvent was alcohol, the vapour of
which can ignites with a single spark.

.... Phil

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 2:20 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Phil Allison"

> Other than that warning, the stuff is indispensable in the service
> workshop.

** I'll kill that damn spell checker...

... Phil

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 2:31 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase Kook "

>
> Why is it everyone else gets corroded or dirty pots and I always get the
> worn ones?

** Try working on some newer gear ....

> Then there is the plague of microscopic Alps ones where the grease
> migrates
> from shaft area to the wiper area and lifts the hair-thin metal from the
> no
> sign of wear resistive track

** Are these the nice looking, 9mm square, green backed ones with metal
shafts and very smooth feel ?

http://cdn1.iofferphoto.com/img/item/166/579/195/jewN.jpg

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nuisance fastners - winge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9108d595e22824ac?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:28 pm
From: "fritz"

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message news:8rkr99Fq2eU1@mid.individual.net...
> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>>
>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>>
>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>>
>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>>
>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>
>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>> fields
>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>> made
>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>>
>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>>
>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>>
>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>>
>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>
> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night. During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even
> though the temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't drop that much. The problem is lack of air
> flow.
>
> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are
> still quite a way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might be. If I could reverse the direction of
> flow, then I could also turn then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.

Stick the fan outside, blow the air inside. Lateral thinking is absent
in the female of the species.

>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was excessive.

Rubbish - use paper and glue - you obviously have plenty of time
on your hands......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9

== 2 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 1:57 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

FWIW..
A motor with 2 identical windings in series, is a PSC permanent split
capacitor motor.

Electrically, in a PSC motor the windings are the same as a center-tapped
transformer, having 3 leads.

PSC motors can be run in either direction, and that's one of their unique
features, a single-phase AC motor that can be instantly reversed (which
single-phase AC motors generally can't do, without allowing them to stop
before reversing).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8rkqspFmhaU2@mid.individual.net...
>
> It's not shaded pole. It has two sets of windings perpendicular to each
> other, and a capacitor which I believe is in series with one set of
> windings.
>
> Sylvia.
>

== 3 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 3:24 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/11/2011 3:57 PM, Wild_Bill wrote:
> Electrically, in a PSC motor the windings are the same as a
> center-tapped transformer, having 3 leads.

Does that mean it's two-phase?

Sorry, couldn't resist.

;-)

Jeff

== 4 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:34 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 8:28 AM, fritz wrote:
>
> "Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message news:8rkr99Fq2eU1@mid.individual.net...
>> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>> news:8rgq9dFodeU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>> On 10/02/2011 11:23 AM, Metro wrote:
>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:8rfc4qFt5gU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>>>>>> I had occasion to dismantle a cheap pedestal fan the other day (Coles
>>>>>>>> Home
>>>>>>>> Collection). It hadn't failed, but I wanted to see how it was wired up
>>>>>>>> (that's another story).
>>>>
>>>>>>>> The cover to the button panel was held in place by four screws which
>>>>>>>> were
>>>>>>>> identical except that two were philips head type, and the other two had
>>>>>>>> a
>>>>>>>> triangular socket in the head.
>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have bits to cope with most things I've encountered, but not those.
>>>>>>>> What's the point? Are they worried about competition for repairing these
>>>>>>>> $10 fans?
>>>>
>>>>>>>> Do consumers regularly electrocute themselves by taking fans apart
>>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>>> knowing what they're doing?
>>>>
>>>>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>>
>>>>>>> They are only a tamperproof head of which there are various and easily
>>>>>>> available.. Wait until you come across a coffin head screw.I believe the
>>>>>>> reason for using them is that some countries prevent the dismantle of an
>>>>>>> appliance without the use of a tool or special tool so this way all
>>>>>>> fields
>>>>>>> are covered in one assembly. Did you find out how it worked. They are
>>>>>>> made
>>>>>>> to break. Best way to keep them longer is to keep the Blades clean and
>>>>>>> lubricate the bearings NOT with WD40 or the like.
>>>>
>>>>>> As I said, it hadn't broken. I was actually trying to figure out which
>>>>>> wire was which leading to the induction motor. I had in mind making it run
>>>>>> backwards. Aerofoils don't perform as well backwards, but they do perform.
>>>>>> However, on further consideration I realised that the fan blades would be
>>>>>> aerodynamically stalled if the fan ran backwards, with the result that it
>>>>>> would probably not work much at all.
>>>>
>>>>> If the fan is symetrical - snap off pairs of opposing blades.
>>>>
>>>> That's not going to fix the problem of the blades being stalled.
>>>>
>>>> What I would really need to do is fit the one-piece fan blade assembly
>>>> on back to front (as well as reversing the motor), but the fan blade
>>>> assembly is not designed to be attached the other way around.
>>>>
>>>> Sylvia.
>>>
>>> Might sound silly, but cant the entire fan head (including motor) be
>>> rotated 180 degrees, or do you want the
>>> air intake without the motor in the way ?
>>
>> The application is to suck cool air in through an open window at night. During the recent heat wave, it was noticeable that even
>> though the temperature outside drops at night, the temperature of the house doesn't drop that much. The problem is lack of air
>> flow.
>>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are
>> still quite a way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might be. If I could reverse the direction of
>> flow, then I could also turn then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> Stick the fan outside, blow the air inside. Lateral thinking is absent
> in the female of the species.
>
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was excessive.
>
> Rubbish - use paper and glue - you obviously have plenty of time
> on your hands......
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papier-m%C3%A2ch%C3%A9

Do you have data for the structural properties? Also, a mathematical
model of the pressure differential across an insect-screen?

Sylvia.

== 5 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:42 pm
From: Archon

On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:
> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>> n
>
> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> Sylvia.
Don't you have window fans where you live?

http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VEFUPO

You can get them here (USA) for $20
JC

== 6 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:54 pm
From: kreed

On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon <Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
> >> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> >>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>
> >>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>> n
>
> > I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> > Sylvia.
>
> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>
> http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>
> You can get them here (USA) for $20
> JC

Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
achieve I think.
They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.

Note that most modern Australian windows slide horizontally - as long
as this works sideways and will
fit the opening, should be fine.

== 7 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:19 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 11:54 AM, kreed wrote:
> On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>> n
>>
>>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>>
>> http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>>
>> You can get them here (USA) for $20
>> JC
>
> Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
> achieve I think.
> They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.

I found Lasko's web site. None of the instruction sheets (which I
thought might specify the power) seem to exist. So I emailed the
webadmin whose address was given on the web site. That email address
appears not to exist either (it bounced).

I hope they're better at making fans than they are at maintaining web sites.

Sylvia.

== 8 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:28 pm
From: kreed

On Feb 12, 11:19 am, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> On 12/02/2011 11:54 AM, kreed wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
> >>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> >>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>
> >>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
> >>>>>> n
>
> >>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>
> >>> Sylvia.
>
> >> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>
> >>http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>
> >> You can get them here (USA) for $20
> >> JC
>
> > Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
> > achieve I think.
> > They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.
>
> I found Lasko's web site. None of the instruction sheets (which I
> thought might specify the power) seem to exist. So I emailed the
> webadmin whose address was given on the web site. That email address
> appears not to exist either (it bounced).
>
> I hope they're better at making fans than they are at maintaining web sites.
>
> Sylvia.

These fans are also available on Ebay - search "window fan" and
"outside australia" and
there are several identical models. The sellers might be able to
help ?

== 9 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 5:29 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 12:28 PM, kreed wrote:
> On Feb 12, 11:19 am, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>> On 12/02/2011 11:54 AM, kreed wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 12, 10:42 am, Archon<Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>> On 2/11/2011 8:18 AM, Sylvia Else wrote:> On 11/02/2011 11:56 PM, kreed wrote:
>>>>>> On Feb 11, 9:20 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>>>> On 11/02/2011 8:11 AM, ian field wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>> "Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
>>>>>>>> n
>>
>>>>> I'm thinking of using box fans instead.
>>
>>>>> Sylvia.
>>
>>>> Don't you have window fans where you live?
>>
>>>> http://www.target.com/Lasko-Electric-Reversible-Twin-Window/dp/B001VE...
>>
>>>> You can get them here (USA) for $20
>>>> JC
>>
>>> Never seen them, but they would be perfect for what Sylvia wants to
>>> achieve I think.
>>> They are on Ebay, but all from the USA.
>>
>> I found Lasko's web site. None of the instruction sheets (which I
>> thought might specify the power) seem to exist. So I emailed the
>> webadmin whose address was given on the web site. That email address
>> appears not to exist either (it bounced).
>>
>> I hope they're better at making fans than they are at maintaining web sites.
>>
>> Sylvia.
>
> These fans are also available on Ebay - search "window fan" and
> "outside australia" and
> there are several identical models. The sellers might be able to
> help ?

I presume I'd need to buy a step down transformer, and then there's the
issue of the different frequency.

Sylvia.

== 10 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 7:43 pm
From: Jasen Betts

On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> excessive.

I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
or a cheap plastic bucket?

--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 11 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:03 pm
From: atec77

On 12/02/2011 1:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>
> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>
>
>
>
I can think of another use for a bucket in sylivas case

--
X-No-Archive: Yes

== 12 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:22 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 2:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>
>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>> excessive.
>
> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>

The fan is too big for a plastic bucket. I considered cardboard but it
was far from clear to me that it was going to be strong enough without
bracing that would further complicate the task.

This isn't a research project. I was looking for a solution that would
definitely work, and be robust.

Sylvia.

== 13 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:23 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 3:03 PM, atec77 wrote:
> On 12/02/2011 1:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
>> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>>
>>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>>> excessive.
>>
>> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
>> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>>
>>
>>
>>
> I can think of another use for a bucket in sylivas case
>

Yes, I can use it to throw-up into whenever I imagine your face.

Sylvia.

== 14 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:41 pm
From: kreed

On Feb 12, 2:23 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> On 12/02/2011 3:03 PM, atec77 wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 12/02/2011 1:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
> >> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
> >>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> >>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> >>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> >>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> >>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> >>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> >>> excessive.
>
> >> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> >> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>
> > I can think of another use for a bucket in sylivas case
>
> Yes, I can use it to throw-up into whenever I imagine your face.
>
> Sylvia.

Classic comeback Sylvia ! AAA+

== 15 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:48 pm
From: F Murtz

Sylvia Else wrote:
> On 12/02/2011 2:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
>> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
>>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
>>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>>
>>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>>> excessive.
>>
>> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
>> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>>
>
> The fan is too big for a plastic bucket. I considered cardboard but it
> was far from clear to me that it was going to be strong enough without
> bracing that would further complicate the task.
>
> This isn't a research project. I was looking for a solution that would
> definitely work, and be robust.
>
> Sylvia.
>
>
Would this work?

http://www.fanmanufacturers.com/images/0000_axial_fan_img4.jpg

== 16 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:52 pm
From: Sylvia Else

No worries, though it's 10' above the ground. I'll just cantelever out a
shelf, and a shelter (fan's not waterproof, and weather forecasts are
not sufficiently reliable), get a sparky in to do the weatherproof
electrics (which I could do myself but am not legally permitted to in
this Australian nanny state), and it'll be fine.

Sylvia.

== 17 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:51 pm
From: kreed

On Feb 12, 2:22 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
> On 12/02/2011 2:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
>
> > On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>
> >> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
> >> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still quite a
> >> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it might
> >> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
> >> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>
> >> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
> >> excessive.
>
> > I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
> > or a cheap plastic bucket?
>
> The fan is too big for a plastic bucket. I considered cardboard but it
> was far from clear to me that it was going to be strong enough without
> bracing that would further complicate the task.
>
> This isn't a research project. I was looking for a solution that would
> definitely work, and be robust.
>
> Sylvia.

Some of those larger black plastic pot plant containers might be big
enough, also are sturdy,
UV resistant (since used outdoors in a garden).

Cut a piece of plywood to fit the window gap, cut a hole in the ply
suit the diameter
of the pot, (and at the right height to suit the fan) cut the bottom
out of the pot, and screw the pot to the ply.

This might make a big enough, and very strong duct for relatively
little cost. IIRC those pots are sturdy enough
so that they aren't likely to flap around in the wind. You can
probably paint them any colour you like, if you don't like black
colour.

You will probably have to paint the plywood on the outside in order to
avoid it rotting from exposure to the elements.

and most have a thick rim that you could scre

== 18 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 8:54 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 12/02/2011 3:48 PM, F Murtz wrote:
> Sylvia Else wrote:
>> On 12/02/2011 2:43 PM, Jasen Betts wrote:
>>> On 2011-02-11, Sylvia Else<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A conventional pedestal fan blows in such a direction that when it's
>>>> placed as near as possible to a window, the fan blades are still
>>>> quite a
>>>> way from the cool air, and so the result is not as effective as it
>>>> might
>>>> be. If I could reverse the direction of flow, then I could also turn
>>>> then fan around, so that the blades would be much closer to the window.
>>>>
>>>> I considered simply building a duct, but the cost of materials was
>>>> excessive.
>>>
>>> I guess you didn't consider cardboard and packing tape then :)
>>> or a cheap plastic bucket?
>>>
>>
>> The fan is too big for a plastic bucket. I considered cardboard but it
>> was far from clear to me that it was going to be strong enough without
>> bracing that would further complicate the task.
>>
>> This isn't a research project. I was looking for a solution that would
>> definitely work, and be robust.
>>
>> Sylvia.
>>
>>
> Would this work?
>
> http://www.fanmanufacturers.com/images/0000_axial_fan_img4.jpg

Looks just the job. Do they come with a through glass mounting kit?

Sylvia.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: External Firewire CD Burner
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96c34c4034e31d45?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 2:25 pm
From: Joe

I have a Que Fire, model QPS-525. I would like to remove the Teac CD
burner and replace it with a bare Combo drive (CD Read/Write and DVD
Read). How do I open that plastic case that encloses the drive? The only
visible screws are very small ones on the back that look like they only
hold the on/off switch and the firewire ports to a black plastic panel.
Thanks.

--- Joe

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 6:12 pm
From: D Yuniskis

On 2/11/2011 3:25 PM, Joe wrote:
> I have a Que Fire, model QPS-525. I would like to remove the Teac CD
> burner and replace it with a bare Combo drive (CD Read/Write and DVD
> Read). How do I open that plastic case that encloses the drive? The only
> visible screws are very small ones on the back that look like they only
> hold the on/off switch and the firewire ports to a black plastic panel.
> Thanks.

If it is similar to the other Que's that I've had, the
"accent colored" pieces (wrap over each side and another
on the front) snap off. Once they are off, you'll understand
how to *get* them off (catch-22) -- hard to explain, here.
(putting them on, you kind of have to *hook* one half and
then "stretch" the other half -- of each *piece* -- until
it clicks into place)

IIRC, once these are off, the top and bottom halves of the
shell separate.

Just remember: plastic breaks!

I can't recall the role of the screws you mentioned. Can't
hurt to take them out *first* and see what else loosens up.

You should probably test new drive cabled into the case
*before* reassembling.

HTH,
--don

==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCA 27F400T Dark Picture
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc03192037c39059?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 11 2011 4:32 pm
From: "Chris F."

Picture and OSD is very dark, but oddly if the signal is disconnected, the
blue screen comes on and the OSD works normally again. According to the
customer, it only started doing this after a power fluctuation.
Chassis number is M134C.
Any ideas?

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 4 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 4 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive