sci.electronics.repair - 21 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: the REAL problem with my Dustbuster...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9894fde02c1e5899?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 9:58 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Another rule... If simply pressing two surfaces together made
>> for a good electrical connection, we'd need much less solder.

> I guess we need to throw out all the flashlight battery designs
> and similar battery holders.

I earlier made a remark about springs -- which flashlights and battery
holders have in abundance. Sometimes the battery holder /is/ the spring.

I just got back from Batteries Plus. The guy was courteous, and I bought
some 9V batteries I needed. I reinstalled the battery, and everything is now
hunky-dorey. Knowing my luck, the battery will fail tomorrow (though I doubt
it).

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 11:22 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 09:58:09 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> Another rule... If simply pressing two surfaces together made
>>> for a good electrical connection, we'd need much less solder.
>
>> I guess we need to throw out all the flashlight battery designs
>> and similar battery holders.
>
>I earlier made a remark about springs -- which flashlights and battery
>holders have in abundance. Sometimes the battery holder /is/ the spring.

Yep. I have a few of those that use "flexible" plastic to provide the
spring tension. They last about 5-10 years, until the plasticizer
dries out. Then, they remain permantently deformed, or cold flow into
a useless shape. I hit them with a hot air gun, and try to melt the
plastic back in shape. Sometimes it works, but usually, all the
tension is gone.

>I just got back from Batteries Plus. The guy was courteous, and I bought
>some 9V batteries I needed. I reinstalled the battery, and everything is now
>hunky-dorey. Knowing my luck, the battery will fail tomorrow (though I doubt
>it).

Nice. Is it too late to have you measure the operating current of the
Dustbuster to satisify my curiosity?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 11:27 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> I just got back from Batteries Plus. The guy was courteous,
>> and I bought some 9V batteries I needed. I reinstalled the
>> battery, and everything is now hunky-dorey. Knowing my luck,
>> the battery will fail tomorrow (though I doubt it).

> Nice. Is it too late to have you measure the operating current
> of the Dustbuster to satisify my curiosity?

It is. I've unbuttoned and rebuttoned it so many times I don't feel like
doing it again. But I suspect your 3A estimate is good. The unit uses sub-C
cells, and runs less than 20 minutes on high -- probably closer to 10.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DJ-Tech S-1 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ee3f29717f1b06b5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 10:09 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:506ep.62072$FV5.1779@newsfe28.ams2...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ilam4o$fv7$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:c%2ep.24512$2H.21966@newsfe15.ams2...
>>> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional Twin SD MP3
>>> player" ?
>>>
>>> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
>>> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list
>>> it
>>> as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
>>> Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.
>>>
>>> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up, ( the soft
>>> power
>>> button works ok at this time), the message "UpdateUI--"
>>> appears
>> in
>>> the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
>>> whether it's correctable with a master reset or something ? I'm guessing
>>> that the "UI" bit might be User Interface ?? Beyond this initial
>>> message,
>> it
>>> does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
>>> button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove
>>> power
>>> from the wall wart.
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>
>> Sometimes archive.org has legacy copies of older websites with the then
>> current user manuals
>>
>>
>
> Thanks. I'll give it a look.
>
> Arfa

Nope. 'Fraid not. They haven't got that page archived.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Credit where it's due ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/06b0841cf5fa1c60?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 10:14 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Got an Electro - Harmonix echo / chorus / vib pedal in with no effects
output. Needed a schematic to see where the signals went, so emailed them.
Within a couple of hours, I had an email back, with pdf's of the two
versions of the circuit attached. How's that for good service ? Well done
E - H !!

What an unexpected pleasure to find a company that still takes customer care
and tech support seriously :-)

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 11:11 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 18:14:24 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> Got an Electro - Harmonix echo / chorus / vib pedal in with no effects
> output. Needed a schematic to see where the signals went, so emailed
> them. Within a couple of hours, I had an email back, with pdf's of the
> two versions of the circuit attached. How's that for good service ? Well
> done E - H !!
>
> What an unexpected pleasure to find a company that still takes customer
> care and tech support seriously :-)
>
> Arfa

Manley Labs was the same with me when I sought information on an 80's
tube comp/limiter. Had a little problem identifying the piece but finally
got a hand drawn print of the power supply from the owner EveAnna Manely.
She said she knows it was the correct schematic because "I drew it
myself" :) She said email her directly if I need any further help. I
guess they treat all there vintage gear like they were their own
children. And I have read on some message boards that EveAnna was really
hard to get any info or diagrams out of. Don't know why she took a liking
to me, maybe it's because we both ride Harleys :)

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface lights failed on GE Microwave oven JVM 1339BW02
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/571342f72d999d0f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 10:39 am
From: Al Thumbs

I have had this oven for 15 years, and it is working well. Recently,
the stovetop lights at the bottom of this built-in unit quit working.
I replaced both bulbs but that didn't do it.

I found a post online about a similar problem that said there is a
foil trace on the circuit board that might be cracked, and that
repairing it may fix my problem. But I have no idea how to get to the
board, which is behind the keypad. I don't even know how to get it off
the wall.

Grateful for all help!

Al Thumbs

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 11:05 am
From: Al Thumbs

On Mar 10, 1:39 pm, Al Thumbs <bcdr...@comcast.net> wrote:
> I have had this oven for 15 years, and it is working well. Recently,
> the stovetop lights at the bottom of this built-in unit quit working.
> I replaced both bulbs but that didn't do it.
>
> I found a post online about a similar problem that said there is a
> foil trace on the circuit board that might be cracked, and that
> repairing it may fix my problem. But I have no idea how to get to the
> board, which is behind the keypad. I don't even know how to get it off
> the wall.
>
> Grateful for all help!
>
> Al Thumbs

Well, maybe I DO know how to get it off the wall, found some
instructions that indicate it slides out from a hanger. But how to fix
those lights?

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 9:08 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:05:18 -0800 (PST), Al Thumbs
<bcdrums@comcast.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>Well, maybe I DO know how to get it off the wall, found some
>instructions that indicate it slides out from a hanger. But how to fix
>those lights?

Do these exploded views help you at all?
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-JVM1339BW02/0432/0123370?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=JVM1339BW02

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Application of SPST switch.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91c8e54779ed4c56?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 1:25 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 3/10/2011 10:34 AM, Peter wrote:
> Any idea how the notation ACC is derived?

ACC = ACCessory

Jeff

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:07 pm
From: Peter

On Mar 10, 1:25 pm, Jeffrey Angus <jan...@suddenlink.net> wrote:
> ACC = ACCessory

Thanks to the three of you. With the lighted switch, the power bar is
better than new, ... Peter E.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 1.250" dia speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5dfae7373796a9e5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 2:16 pm
From: JR North

So, my Uniden cordless handsets are 5 years old, been dropped TMT. The
ringer speakers are kaput. They are regular cone type, 1.250" dia. Any
Suggestions for source? Rat Shack-no go. Google is worthless.
JR
--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 3:40 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Uniden is legally obliged to provide service parts. If they refuse, there's
nothing much you can do about it, but I'd at least bend their ear. Hard.

You might ask Uniden if a current model uses the same speaker.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung TV repair question.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef9b7679393102e3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 2:46 pm
From: Geo

On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 01:27:32 -0000, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>
>
>"Christen Alex" <clamchelle69@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
>news:il5ud9$hct$4@speranza.aioe.org...
>> Beezle Bub wrote:
>>> I have an analog Samsung TV which I bought in 1998. It is around 32
>>> inches. The problem is the image keeps getting 'squeezed'--the sides
>>> cave in and the image takes on the shape of an hourglass. In the past,
>>> I would have this problem for like 10 minutes but the image would
>>> eventually correct itself. Nowadays, the problem remains as it is.
>>> Anything can be done about this?
>>>
>>> Model # is TXJ2766.
>>
>> That's what happens when you feed HDTV into a non-HDTV TV Set. It takes
>> about 10 minutes for the set to correct itself because frame buffers
>> were a lot slower back in 1998.
>
>I have never read such pure unmitigated bloody nonsense in all my life,
>Stick to carpentry or plumbing or baking or whatever it is you do for a
>living ...
>
You can't be /serious/ - I thought it explained the problem of trying to squezze
HD into 32 inches very well....

--
Geo

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Panasonic inverter microwave repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e81b196d6741fbf3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 3:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:38:13 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>
> > I have a very nice (read: expensive) Panasonic microwave oven in for
> > service. It will actually end up being mine, when it's completed. It
> > uses a SMPS and has some nice features. The display and control systems
> > seem to work just fine. Anyway, it throws the earth leakage detector
> > switch when attempting to cook. Once of the power transistors measures
> > S/C, so my intention is to replace both transistors (with OEM parts),
> > along with the bridge rectifier (which is suggested by the
> > manufacturer). The question is this:
> >
> > If I replace the power supply parts, how likely is it that the magetron
> > is faulty and the power supply will, again, be destroyed on power up?
> >
> > Should I replace the magetron on spec? I checked the terminals to earth
> > and there appears to be no leakage, but you can never tell with these
> > critters. I guess it's safe to Megger test the magnetron (500 Volts)?
> >
> > I don't usually do microwave ovens, so this is new territory for me.
> >
> > TIA
>
> My crystal ball is in for NIST certification so I can't conjure up an
> answer for you.

Don't waste your money. Those Japanese models are too small to get
decent accuracy. ;-)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 9:12 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:38:13 +1100, "Trevor Wilson"
<trevor@rageaudio.com.au> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I have a very nice (read: expensive) Panasonic microwave oven in for
>service. It will actually end up being mine, when it's completed. It uses a
>SMPS and has some nice features. The display and control systems seem to
>work just fine. Anyway, it throws the earth leakage detector switch when
>attempting to cook. Once of the power transistors measures S/C, so my
>intention is to replace both transistors (with OEM parts), along with the
>bridge rectifier (which is suggested by the manufacturer). The question is
>this:
>
>If I replace the power supply parts, how likely is it that the magetron is
>faulty and the power supply will, again, be destroyed on power up?
>
>Should I replace the magetron on spec? I checked the terminals to earth and
>there appears to be no leakage, but you can never tell with these critters.
>I guess it's safe to Megger test the magnetron (500 Volts)?
>
>I don't usually do microwave ovens, so this is new territory for me.
>
>TIA

FWIW, I repaired a Panasonic inverter microwave oven a couple of years
ago. After replacing the power transistors the oven worked fine.
However, I don't recall that it tripped the ELCB beforehand. Moreover,
I gave the oven away, so I don't know if it is still working.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Marshall JCM 2000, 1998
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3338dc78a01d3b6d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 3:34 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ilas70$gc9$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:rZ5ep.75494$To7.65089@newsfe12.ams2...
>>
>>
>> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:ilan3u$j8g$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> > Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws 1.2
>> > amp
>> > at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
>> > Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok.
>> > DC of primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
>> > windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half
>> > measured
>> > ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out of
>> > curiosity
>> > but
>> > stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper ,
> any
>> > tips on delaminating ?
>> > Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK ?
> or
>> > anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model
>> > Dagnall, TXMA 00061, D2105
>> > only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes
>> >
>> >
>>
>> We get parts direct from Marshall. Used to be a Marshall dealer, but we
> are
>> not any more, and they still supply us with parts ok, so it must not be a
>> requirement. It may be that you have to be a 'legitimate' business
>> though,
>> and not just 'Joe Punter'.
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
>
> Any ball-park idea of cost for a Marshall replacement ?
>
>

Ball park between �20 and �30 inc P&P and VAT.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: reparing battery pack
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d9491f5db686f53?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:17 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"LSMFT"
Phil Allison wrote:
>
>>>> BTW:
>>>>
>>>> Who makes 4000mAh Ni-Cds in C size ??
>>>>
>>>
>>> Just because you don't know who makes them doesn't mean they don't
>>> exist.
>>
>>
>> ** Giant HUH ????????
>>
>> I already found that Sanyo make 3600mAh Ni-Cd cells in C size.
>>
>> Fast charge types too - very cool cells.
>>
>>
>>
> NIMH RECHARGEABLE C-CELL -- 5000 MAH
> High-capacity 5000 mAh rechargeable nickel-metal hydride C-cell.

** Shame that ain't a Ni-Cd cell.......

NiMH cells have up to 4 times the capacity of Ni-Cds, at least in AA size.

..... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lady Veteran has actually sent me a video of herself
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e5c475e0c3dc202a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:31 pm
From: Lady Veteran

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:21:49 -0800, HumBug! <KnewsKgnus@gmail.com>
wrote:

>On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 10:25:18 +0000, Michael Gross <pigwiggler@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>She's talking shit to me so I thought I would forward it
>>
>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNjbXg2mBsQ
>
>WRONG one, you sent yourself.
>
>
>
>
You know how these idiots are-they don't know the difference between
up or down.

"I rode a tank and held a general's rank
When the blitzkrieg raged and the bodies stank."

---Sympathy for the Devil-The Rolling Stones
--------------------------------------------

"Only a male compensating for his impotence
would accuse a strong woman of being a lesbian."

---Unknown
----------------------------------------------

"It's a sign of your own worth sometimes if you are
hated by the right people."

---Miles Franklin
----------------------------------------------

See the latest idiot featured on my blog!

My Blog http://ladyveteranslog.blogspot.com
---------------------------------------------
Are you being harassed on Usenet and want to fight
back instead of leaving the net? Are you willing to
stand up to Internet bullies and stalkers?

Join my group http://groups.yahoo.com/group/antiCHU
----------------------------------------------

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Compact disc doesn't spin
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e56ec88a02f73b83?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:56 pm
From: b

On Mar 8, 5:29 am, GARY <gcott...@co.riverside.ca.us> wrote:
> On a Sharp Mini Component System (model CD-C420), the compact disc
> turns very slowly or moves only about 1" and then stops.
>
> How can I check to see if something is slipping? Is there a belt?

first things first. get a q tip and moisten it with some isopropyl
alcohol or tape head cleaner. gently clean the lens and try again.
if no joy, then you may need to replace the ribbon cable or optical
block. some units come with the whole motor/sled/block and pcb as one,
others not.
In some cases, a bad spindle motor can give what you describe. common
in cheap dvd players. If the psu strains as the dic tries to spin,
then more so!

-B

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is the difference between scanning for stations and going directly
to one?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5606a0580a8be0ca?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 10:56 pm
From: mm

What is the difference between scanning for chhannles and going
directly to one?

I thought that letting a VCR or DVD recorder or TV scan for channels/
stations was only to compile a list in advance of channels a device
could receive, by checking out every station and noting which had
signals.

And that pushing 1 3 on the remote would go to channel 13 whether one
had scanned for stations or not, whether digital station frequencies
had changed since the last time one scanned or not. As effectively as
if one scanned the whole spectrum, and then channeled up or down to
get to 13.

Am I right about the paragraph just above?

And that for timed recording, when the dvd recorder goes to channel 13
directly, it looks for it if necessary, just like scanning does. And
if it gives some reception, though bad reception, even though the
transmitter is only 10 miles away, it's not because it's off
frequency?

Or are digital tuners different from analog, in that scanning first is
essential?

Thanks.

==============================================================================

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