sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Panasonic inverter microwave repair - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e81b196d6741fbf3?hl=en
* Blinkind LED Error code on Sharp Aquos LC32-LE700 TV - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8aa68af07f403f2b?hl=en
* DJ-Tech S-1 ... - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ee3f29717f1b06b5?hl=en
* the REAL problem with my Dustbuster... - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9894fde02c1e5899?hl=en
* Panasonic Blu-ray Player "No Disc" - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/557ec744234206b2?hl=en
* Compact disc doesn't spin - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e56ec88a02f73b83?hl=en
* Marshall JCM 2000, 1998 - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3338dc78a01d3b6d?hl=en
* reparing battery pack - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d9491f5db686f53?hl=en
* Application of SPST switch. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91c8e54779ed4c56?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Panasonic inverter microwave repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e81b196d6741fbf3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 12:38 am
From: "Trevor Wilson"

I have a very nice (read: expensive) Panasonic microwave oven in for
service. It will actually end up being mine, when it's completed. It uses a
SMPS and has some nice features. The display and control systems seem to
work just fine. Anyway, it throws the earth leakage detector switch when
attempting to cook. Once of the power transistors measures S/C, so my
intention is to replace both transistors (with OEM parts), along with the
bridge rectifier (which is suggested by the manufacturer). The question is
this:

If I replace the power supply parts, how likely is it that the magetron is
faulty and the power supply will, again, be destroyed on power up?

Should I replace the magetron on spec? I checked the terminals to earth and
there appears to be no leakage, but you can never tell with these critters.
I guess it's safe to Megger test the magnetron (500 Volts)?

I don't usually do microwave ovens, so this is new territory for me.

TIA

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 5:35 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:38:13 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:

> I have a very nice (read: expensive) Panasonic microwave oven in for
> service. It will actually end up being mine, when it's completed. It
> uses a SMPS and has some nice features. The display and control systems
> seem to work just fine. Anyway, it throws the earth leakage detector
> switch when attempting to cook. Once of the power transistors measures
> S/C, so my intention is to replace both transistors (with OEM parts),
> along with the bridge rectifier (which is suggested by the
> manufacturer). The question is this:
>
> If I replace the power supply parts, how likely is it that the magetron
> is faulty and the power supply will, again, be destroyed on power up?
>
> Should I replace the magetron on spec? I checked the terminals to earth
> and there appears to be no leakage, but you can never tell with these
> critters. I guess it's safe to Megger test the magnetron (500 Volts)?
>
> I don't usually do microwave ovens, so this is new territory for me.
>
> TIA

My crystal ball is in for NIST certification so I can't conjure up an
answer for you.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Blinkind LED Error code on Sharp Aquos LC32-LE700 TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8aa68af07f403f2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 2:19 am
From: Adrian C

On 08/03/2011 21:13, Meat Plow wrote:
> On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 10:56:07 +0000, Christen Alex wrote:
>
>> benitos wrote:
>>> What I did so far :
>>>
>>> -unplug the TV
>>> -Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time -Plug TV
>>>
>>> TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>>>
>>> When turning off with power button , POWER& OPC Led blinked 2 times
>>> togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>>>
>>> What does this code mean ?
>>>
>>>
>> It means that the flyback needs to be replaced.
>
> How do you figure that?

LV sock.

--
Adrian C

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 5:15 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 10:19:51 +0000, Adrian C wrote:

> On 08/03/2011 21:13, Meat Plow wrote:
>> On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 10:56:07 +0000, Christen Alex wrote:
>>
>>> benitos wrote:
>>>> What I did so far :
>>>>
>>>> -unplug the TV
>>>> -Press VOL- and INPUT at the same time -Plug TV
>>>>
>>>> TV turned ON with a LK on the screen.
>>>>
>>>> When turning off with power button , POWER& OPC Led blinked 2 times
>>>> togheter and power led blinked 3 times alone .
>>>>
>>>> What does this code mean ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>> It means that the flyback needs to be replaced.
>>
>> How do you figure that?
>
> LV sock.

A double LV sock? LV is a sock of the real LV who I've known for years
and knows nothing about electronics :)

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DJ-Tech S-1 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ee3f29717f1b06b5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 3:55 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional Twin SD MP3
player" ?

This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list it
as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.

The problem with the unit is that when you power it up, ( the soft power
button works ok at this time), the message "UpdateUI--" appears in
the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
whether it's correctable with a master reset or something ? I'm guessing
that the "UI" bit might be User Interface ?? Beyond this initial message, it
does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove power
from the wall wart.

Arfa

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:42 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional
> Twin SD MP3 player"?

With that name, it sounds as if was manufactured by Craptronics, Ltd.

> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list it
> as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
> Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.

That proves it.

> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up,

Forgive me... When you turn it on. What ever happened to simple language?

> the message "UpdateUI--" appears in
> the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
> whether it's correctable with a master reset or something? I'm guessing
> that the "UI" bit might be User Interface? Beyond this initial message, it
> does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
> button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove power
> from the wall wart.

If the unit has a reset button, I'd do a type-1 hard reset -- stick a pin in
the hole (or whatever). If that doesn't fix it, I'd do a type-2 hard
reset -- throw it a metal trashcan with as much force as possible. Or a
type-3 -- pretend you're Rumpelstiltskin and jump up and down on it in great
fury.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 5:31 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:55:52 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional Twin SD MP3
> player" ?
>
> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list
> it as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no
> manuals. Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in
> this regard.
>
> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up, ( the soft
> power button works ok at this time), the message "UpdateUI--"
> appears in the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell
> us, and whether it's correctable with a master reset or something ? I'm
> guessing that the "UI" bit might be User Interface ?? Beyond this
> initial message, it does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls,
> including the power button. The only way to then get it to power back
> off, is to remove power from the wall wart.
>
> Arfa

Maybe it's stuck in the middle of loading data from non-volatile into
volatile ram?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 6:09 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:c%2ep.24512$2H.21966@newsfe15.ams2...
> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional Twin SD MP3
> player" ?
>
> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list it
> as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
> Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.
>
> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up, ( the soft power
> button works ok at this time), the message "UpdateUI--" appears
in
> the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
> whether it's correctable with a master reset or something ? I'm guessing
> that the "UI" bit might be User Interface ?? Beyond this initial message,
it
> does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
> button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove power
> from the wall wart.
>
> Arfa
>

Sometimes archive.org has legacy copies of older websites with the then
current user manuals

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 6:18 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Sometimes archive.org has legacy copies of older websites
> with the then-current user manuals

There's a website -- I forget the name -- that has tens of thousands of
manuals available at low cost.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:20 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ilah1t$d31$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional
>> Twin SD MP3 player"?
>
> With that name, it sounds as if was manufactured by Craptronics, Ltd.
>
>
>> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
>> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list
>> it
>> as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
>> Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.
>
> That proves it.
>
>
>> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up,
>
> Forgive me... When you turn it on. What ever happened to simple language?
>
>
>> the message "UpdateUI--" appears in
>> the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
>> whether it's correctable with a master reset or something? I'm guessing
>> that the "UI" bit might be User Interface? Beyond this initial message,
>> it
>> does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
>> button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove power
>> from the wall wart.
>
> If the unit has a reset button, I'd do a type-1 hard reset -- stick a pin
> in
> the hole (or whatever). If that doesn't fix it, I'd do a type-2 hard
> reset -- throw it a metal trashcan with as much force as possible. Or a
> type-3 -- pretend you're Rumpelstiltskin and jump up and down on it in
> great
> fury.
>
>

Thank you William. As ever, that's all very helpful ...

Arfa

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:21 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ilam4o$fv7$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:c%2ep.24512$2H.21966@newsfe15.ams2...
>> Anyone got any knowledge / experience of this "Professional Twin SD MP3
>> player" ?
>>
>> This one is from a customer who's lost his user guide. If you go to DJ
>> Tech's website, even though the unit is only a few years old, they list
>> it
>> as 'legacy' and only have a basic spec listed for download - no manuals.
>> Needless to say, they don't respond to requests for help in this regard.
>>
>> The problem with the unit is that when you power it up, ( the soft power
>> button works ok at this time), the message "UpdateUI--" appears
> in
>> the left window. Anyone know what exactly it's trying to tell us, and
>> whether it's correctable with a master reset or something ? I'm guessing
>> that the "UI" bit might be User Interface ?? Beyond this initial message,
> it
>> does nothing, and doesn't respond to any controls, including the power
>> button. The only way to then get it to power back off, is to remove power
>> from the wall wart.
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
> Sometimes archive.org has legacy copies of older websites with the then
> current user manuals
>
>

Thanks. I'll give it a look.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: the REAL problem with my Dustbuster...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9894fde02c1e5899?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:24 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> But there's a spring applying pressure.

> Bend the flat wire over a few times and you'll get
> some spring pressure.

It's too short. And I want a "permanet" fix.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:35 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> You're an idiot to suggest epoxy. The contacts will oxidize and then
>> there will be no connection, might take a couple of months before
>> this happens, but it will happen.

> Ok, I'll bite. Stainless or nickel oxidize? What electrolyte is in
> epoxy that will attack stainless steel or nickel? Meanwhile, I can
> buy epoxy paint, epoxy coated rebar, conductive (aluminum doped)
> epoxy, epoxy covering junction coating for cheap PCB packaging, etc.
> I can also buy quite a few fiberglass marine hulls and decks, which are
> held together by epoxy and have stainless deck fittings. No corrosion
> warnings on any of the epoxy cans, bottles, and tubes that I can find.
> It's certainly not hydroscopic so there's no electrolytic action. The
> stainless and nickel are fairly close on the galvanic series:
> http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic_corrosion_chart.htm

> Sigh. Where is Dr. Barry L. Ornitz when we need him?

Is this your reference? I'm not sure I see the connection (other than the
general one of chemical reactions between dissimilar substances).

http://www.natscience.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/chem/9657/Plasticizer-problem

Basic rule -- all discussions eventually get out of hand.

Another rule... If simply pressing two surfaces together made for a good
electrical connection, we'd need much less solder.

You've no doubt read stories about how unsoldered connections lasted a week,
a month, a year -- but eventually failed. Solder creates an alloy bond that
doesn't slowly deteriorate from exposure to oxygen and contaminants.

Before someone mentions wire wrap... In wire wrapping, the wire actually
cuts into the post, forming a gas-tight connection.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 8:27 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 04:35:00 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> You're an idiot to suggest epoxy. The contacts will oxidize and then
>>> there will be no connection, might take a couple of months before
>>> this happens, but it will happen.
>
>> Ok, I'll bite. Stainless or nickel oxidize? What electrolyte is in
>> epoxy that will attack stainless steel or nickel? Meanwhile, I can
>> buy epoxy paint, epoxy coated rebar, conductive (aluminum doped)
>> epoxy, epoxy covering junction coating for cheap PCB packaging, etc.
>> I can also buy quite a few fiberglass marine hulls and decks, which are
>> held together by epoxy and have stainless deck fittings. No corrosion
>> warnings on any of the epoxy cans, bottles, and tubes that I can find.
>> It's certainly not hydroscopic so there's no electrolytic action. The
>> stainless and nickel are fairly close on the galvanic series:
>> http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic_corrosion_chart.htm
>
>> Sigh. Where is Dr. Barry L. Ornitz when we need him?

>Is this your reference? I'm not sure I see the connection (other than the
>general one of chemical reactions between dissimilar substances).
>
>http://www.natscience.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/chem/9657/Plasticizer-problem

No. That's for soft rubber. Plasticizer is what softens plastics.
Quite the opposite in epoxies.

However, after doing my homework AFTER posting the above, I recalled
that stainless will self corrode:
<http://yarchive.net/electr/galvanic_corrosion.html>
"In an earlier post, I mentioned that the stainless alloys can
galvanically corrode by themselves without the presence of a
dissimilar metal. This characteristic is a property of almost
all nickel alloys not just the 18-8 (400 series) and 18-8-3
(300 series) of stainless alloys. It is indeed unfortunate
that these alloys were given the name "stainless" since they
can often corrode under relatively mild conditions."
However, that takes years, not months as the OP alleges.

>Basic rule -- all discussions eventually get out of hand.

Yep. I consider myself part of the problem, not the solution. I also
don't like being called an idiot by someone that doesn't bother to
substantiate their allegations. If this discussion had remained on
the original topic (Dustbuster), I would have been terminally bored
and not bothered reading further. Sometimes the topic drift is more
interesting than the original topic. I'm far more interested in
building capacitive discharge spot welders than fixing dust busters.

>Another rule... If simply pressing two surfaces together made for a good
>electrical connection, we'd need much less solder.

I guess we need to throw out all the flashlight battery designs and
similar battery holders. I could probably get an adequate connection
by simply pressing the flat wire to the battery terminal, and jamming
it in place with an added spring, rubber block, or wad of something
compressible. However, if the current drain really is 3A, not the 1A
I was guessing, it probably won't last.

>You've no doubt read stories about how unsoldered connections lasted a week,
>a month, a year -- but eventually failed.

Sure. Most of those failures are from corrosion. If you
environmentally isolate the junction, such as burying it under a blob
of epoxy (or other glue), it's unlikely to corrode. The rest are from
arcing, which can be reduced by avoiding pointy contacts.

>Solder creates an alloy bond that
>doesn't slowly deteriorate from exposure to oxygen and contaminants.

Yep. (Reminder: I used to design marine radios.)

>Before someone mentions wire wrap... In wire wrapping, the wire actually
>cuts into the post, forming a gas-tight connection.

Yep.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 9:58 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Another rule... If simply pressing two surfaces together made
>> for a good electrical connection, we'd need much less solder.

> I guess we need to throw out all the flashlight battery designs
> and similar battery holders.

I earlier made a remark about springs -- which flashlights and battery
holders have in abundance. Sometimes the battery holder /is/ the spring.

I just got back from Batteries Plus. The guy was courteous, and I bought
some 9V batteries I needed. I reinstalled the battery, and everything is now
hunky-dorey. Knowing my luck, the battery will fail tomorrow (though I doubt
it).

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Panasonic Blu-ray Player "No Disc"
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/557ec744234206b2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 4:47 am
From: Bob Villa

On Mar 9, 6:47 am, Bob Villa <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote:

Is there a site that sells the drive for this unit?

Thanks.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Compact disc doesn't spin
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e56ec88a02f73b83?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 5:29 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 02:09:10 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2011.03.09.20.48.12@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 01:36:57 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:pan.2011.03.08.21.19.58@lmao.lol.lol...
>>>> On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 10:36:44 -0800, GARY wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> No error-code.
>>>>>
>>>>> After the 3 discs are cycled over the lens, the display says "No
>>>>> Disc".
>>>>
>>>> You've got problems in the logic portion. If it were a laser problem
>>>> the disc would rotate and the sled would slide the laser block in and
>>>> out looking for a disc ID.
>>>
>>> Often not the case, Meat. Many players will not start to spin the disc
>>> up or move the laser down its slides, unless focus lock is obtained,
>>> The movement of about an inch is often an attempt to move the disc to
>>> a different spot to retry the initial focusing operation, in case the
>>> original spot on the disc was dirty or damaged. This small movement of
>>> the disc may be carried out just the once, or several times before it
>>> gives up and declares there to be no disc ...
>>>
>>> Just as a matter of interest, why has the OP started a new thread,
>>> instead of continuing with his original, also called "Compact disc
>>> doesn't spin" started two days ago ?
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>> I must be thinking of a DVD. Looking at this portable player with a
>> window to see the disk as soon as the lid is closed the disc rotates
>> and then the sled moves in and out. Been too long since I've worked on
>> a CD player to remember if they do the same I guess.
>>
>>
>>
> No, no. You're quite right. Some players do just go ahead and spin the
> disc up regardless, but by far the most common scheme is to first home
> the laser, which is usually just a little shuffle if it's already home,
> then to obtain focus, and when that is achieved, spin up the disc and
> get the tracking servo locked before finally starting to read data to
> extract the timing for the spindle servo. Once all of that is
> acomplished, the TOC is read in.
>
> Arfa

Got it. I always assumed the laser needed a spin to focus. Working on
those things back in the 80's when they first hit the market and the vast
majority were warranty items it was more time effective to just shotgun
the entire mechanism than to spend more than 10 minutes troubleshooting.
I made the most money per piece with a horribly low minimum wage salary.
And the facility was well stocked with factory replacements. So it was
check a mental flow chart, if it was a tweak or a mechanical problem that
could be buttoned up in 15 minutes then it actually got some repair.
Otherwise it was pulled and replaced. So even though countless boxed units
from several retail chains made it to my work area, I didn't have the
time to get real intimate with the workings. By the 90's I switch from
consumer to pro audio repair for a friend who did Yamaha warranty. Better
pay and I got to spend more time with power amps, synths, etc...

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Marshall JCM 2000, 1998
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3338dc78a01d3b6d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 6:26 am
From: "N_Cook"

Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws 1.2 amp
at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok.
DC of primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half measured
ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out of curiosity
but
stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper , any
tips on delaminating ?
Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK ? or
anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model
Dagnall, TXMA 00061, D2105
only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 6:43 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 10 Mar 2011 14:26:34 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

> Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws 1.2
> amp at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
> Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok. DC of
> primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
> windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half
> measured ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out
> of curiosity but
> stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper ,
> any tips on delaminating ?
> Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK ?
> or anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model Dagnall, TXMA
> 00061, D2105
> only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes

http://www.mercurymagnetics.com/pages/mainframe.htm

Should ship internationally.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:18 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ilan3u$j8g$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws 1.2
> amp
> at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
> Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok.
> DC of primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
> windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half
> measured
> ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out of
> curiosity
> but
> stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper , any
> tips on delaminating ?
> Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK ? or
> anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model
> Dagnall, TXMA 00061, D2105
> only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes
>
>

We get parts direct from Marshall. Used to be a Marshall dealer, but we are
not any more, and they still supply us with parts ok, so it must not be a
requirement. It may be that you have to be a 'legitimate' business though,
and not just 'Joe Punter'.

Arfa

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:53 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:rZ5ep.75494$To7.65089@newsfe12.ams2...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ilan3u$j8g$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws 1.2
> > amp
> > at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
> > Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok.
> > DC of primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
> > windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half
> > measured
> > ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out of
> > curiosity
> > but
> > stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper ,
any
> > tips on delaminating ?
> > Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK ?
or
> > anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model
> > Dagnall, TXMA 00061, D2105
> > only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes
> >
> >
>
> We get parts direct from Marshall. Used to be a Marshall dealer, but we
are
> not any more, and they still supply us with parts ok, so it must not be a
> requirement. It may be that you have to be a 'legitimate' business though,
> and not just 'Joe Punter'.
>
> Arfa
>

Any ball-park idea of cost for a Marshall replacement ?

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 8:00 am
From: Ron

On 10/03/2011 15:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ilan3u$j8g$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Blown primary of the mains Tx, isolated removed from chassis, draws
>> 1.2 amp
>> at 20V variac "mains" and temp climbs 20 deg C in 4 minutes or so.
>> Secondaries measure l27V, 16.3V and 2V so that side presumably ok.
>> DC of primaries measure 1.2R and 2.2R, would they use 2 bifilar primary
>> windings where stressed midpoint would show half way short and half
>> measured
>> ohms?. I will poke around in the winding/ try delaminating out of
>> curiosity
>> but
>> stock fault/ batch fault ? Other than "marinating" in paint stripper ,
>> any
>> tips on delaminating ?
>> Are replacements available from Marshall ? or a grey market source UK
>> ? or
>> anyone use 2 or 3 separate Tx ? Googling Tx model
>> Dagnall, TXMA 00061, D2105
>> only shows up suspiciously low priced dollar quotes
>>
>>
>
> We get parts direct from Marshall. Used to be a Marshall dealer, but we
> are not any more, and they still supply us with parts ok, so it must not
> be a requirement. It may be that you have to be a 'legitimate' business
> though, and not just 'Joe Punter'.
>
> Arfa

I've had parts direct from Marshall also. I was never a Marshall
dealer, when you talk to their service dept, they soon suss you out as
competent or not. Great service and killer 'on hold' music on the
telephone ;)

Ron

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 9:10 am
From: "N_Cook"

At least its the outer 120V primary at fault and a split bobbin so once the
laminations are apart , easy to inspect. Tomorrow I will try a 125W iron
concentrating on the central sliver of the first "E". Laid thin ptfe sheet
heat insulation under the other 3 slivers. What will be the softening
temperature of the lacquer and any guesses as to time of heat application at
the exposed end only ? At least I can monitor the other end with a
pyrommeter.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: reparing battery pack
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d9491f5db686f53?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 7:21 am
From: LSMFT

Phil Allison wrote:
> "Stephany Alexander"
>> Phil Allison wrote:
>>> "LSMFT"
>>>> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to stay
>>>> in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace them
>>>> with
>>>> 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt the
>>>> drill?
>>>
>>> ** Nope.
>>>
>>> But it will take proportionally longer to charge as the mAh rating goes
>>> up.
>>>
>>> BTW:
>>>
>>> Who makes 4000mAh Ni-Cds in C size ??
>>>
>>
>> Just because you don't know who makes them doesn't mean they don't exist.
>
>
> ** Giant HUH ????????
>
> I already found that Sanyo make 3600mAh Ni-Cd cells in C size.
>
> Fast charge types too - very cool cells.
>
>
>
> ..... Phil
>
>
NIMH RECHARGEABLE C-CELL -- 5000 MAH
High-capacity 5000 mAh rechargeable nickel-metal hydride C-cell. 1.2V.
26mm diameter x 50mm long. Standard charge, 16 Hours @ 300mA. Rapid
charge, 2 Hours @ 3000 mA.
Read more
CAT# NMH-C
$5.65 each

This is at All Electronics online catalog.

--
LSMFT

Force shits upon the Back of Reason...
Ben Franklin-

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Application of SPST switch.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91c8e54779ed4c56?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 8:34 am
From: Peter

On Mar 9, 3:50 pm, "Dave M" <dgminala4...@mediacombb.net> wrote:
> ... You connect 12V to the PWR terminal, and Ground to the GRD terminal.
> The device or circuit you're turning on connects to the ACC terminal.  

So the power source is connected to PWR and GRD and the load is
connected to ACC and GRD. The GRD conductor could jump over the
switch but then the light wouldn't work?

Any idea how the notation ACC is derived?

Mar 9, 10:15 pm, Phil Allison wrote,
> ** That switch is strictly for 12 volt DC circuits.

Right oh. The appearance is similar to a switch in the scrap
collection
here marked "ARROW ENGLAND 125 V". I didn't find a useful
illustration
of the Arrow. Should have photographed it but the linked picture was
convenient.

Thanks for the explanations fellows, ... Peter E.

==============================================================================

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