sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* the REAL problem with my Dustbuster... - 11 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9894fde02c1e5899?hl=en
* IDC 40-pin connector for 80-conductor cable? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/468dba7cb3f71499?hl=en
* Compact disc doesn't spin - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e56ec88a02f73b83?hl=en
* Application of SPST switch. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91c8e54779ed4c56?hl=en
* 2011 Christian Louboutin New Style - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8798e6e1d7a9ba16?hl=en
* Panasonic inverter microwave repair - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e81b196d6741fbf3?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: the REAL problem with my Dustbuster...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9894fde02c1e5899?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 4:12 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 03:58:33 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> Very last resort is to just slop some epoxy on the flat wire and
>> battery terminal, and hope that it holds.
>
>Unless it's silver-filled epoxy, no way.

I don't mean slopping the epoxy in between the battery terminal and
the flat wire. I mean push the two wires together, and slop some
epoxy on top in order to just hold them together. The Dustbuster
doesn't draw all that much current so I suspect a simple mechanical
connection will work. Kinda like the contacts for D cell batteries in
kids toys, flashlights, games, etc, where a welded contact isn't
necessary. If you're not sure if it will work, and don't want to deal
with permanent epoxy, use Duct Tape to hold the flat wire in place.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 4:42 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 08:16:00 -0800, mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:

>Spot welding is a LOT harder than it sounds.

I agree. I spent about 5 days tinkering with mine trying to get it
right. Every time I added more capacitance, things improved. The
basic trick is to make sure the resistance of the joint to be welded,
is higher than all the other resistances (and ESR of the capacitor).
Mine currently has two 3F 20v caps in parallel. Something like this:
<http://ledhacks.com/power/battery_tab_welder.htm>

>Just to use some round numbers that you can scale for your application...
>If you expect to get 10,000 amps out of 10V, you can't have more than
>a milliohm of resistance. That's the cap esr + the switch + the wire +
>the contacts
>+ the contact resistance at the weld. And the only thing that does much
>good is the amps x volts x time at the junction between the two parts
>being welded plus a little in the weld material itself.

Good point. However, I have no way to measure the peak current or the
current necessary to do the weld. I just kept adding capacitance
until it worked.

>An extra couple of milliohms in the system will render the welder impotent.
>And the weld will be extremely sensitive to the contact resistance
>between the weldments and thus the pressure applied and the contact area
>and, and , and.

Well, the idea is to dissipate the power in the connection, not in the
capacitors, SCR, or contacts. As long as the capacitor is huge, the
SCR oversized, wires beefy, and the contacts can handle both the
current and the heat, it should work.

>With a low-voltage AC welder made from a microwave oven
>transformer, I was getting about 20% good welds. The commercial CD
>welder with the same homebrew weld head was closer to 100% good.

Apples and oranges. There's enough resistance in the transformer
winding to probably make the welder useless. If the primary winding
was made from copper buss bars, it might have a chance, but not a
copper wire wound xformer. A big capacitor has an internal
resistance, but that's MUCH less than the resistance of a wired
transformer winding.

>You really want something that controls current rather than voltage.
>Then, most of the variables end up in one place, the weld.
>Using a higher voltage and some intentional, controlled series
>resistance can make it much more reliable.

Agreed. Voltage doesn't matter. It's the current that does the
heating. If you shove XX Amps through YY ohms of resistance, it's
going to heat I^2*R (Ohms Law). Whatever voltage it took to deliver
that much current is largely irrelivent.

>Many battery tabs are made of zinc. Easier to weld than stainless.
>Hobby-Store 5mil brass is very easy to weld, but may be too high
>resistance for a dust buster.

I haven't seen any zinc tabs yet. I've seen tin plated steel and
stainless. Brass should work for a Dustbuster as they don't draw all
that much current.

>Having said that, you can, with practice, make usable battery tab welds
>with a capacitor bank, a pressure controlled contact system and a switch
>made out of a nail. Charge the caps, apply weld pressure, slam the nail
>across two BIG wires. I was using 4/0 wire. You get one weld per nail,
>but nails are cheap.

I used a copper contact knife switch. I welded the contacts a few
times, but was able to break it apart, file it clean, and do it again.

One more idea. Single sided resitance spot welder as used in auto
body shops.
<http://www.jcwhitney.com/spot-welder/p2007539.jcwx>
However, you'll need an arc welder for this to work.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 4:48 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 16:42:48 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>I haven't seen any zinc tabs yet. I've seen tin plated steel and
>stainless.

Also flat wire made from nickel or various nickel alloys, which is
difficult, but not impossible to solder.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 5:03 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>> Very last resort is to just slop some epoxy on the flat wire and
>>> battery terminal, and hope that it holds.

>> Unless it's silver-filled epoxy, no way.

> I don't mean slopping the epoxy in between the battery terminal and
> the flat wire. I mean push the two wires together, and slop some
> epoxy on top in order to just hold them together. The Dustbuster
> doesn't draw all that much current so I suspect a simple mechanical
> connection will work. Kinda like the contacts for D cell batteries in
> kids toys, flashlights, games, etc, where a welded contact isn't
> necessary.

But there's a spring applying pressure.

> If you're not sure if it will work, and don't want to deal with
> permanent epoxy, use Duct Tape to hold the flat wire in place.

The problem (from my point of view) is oxidation. I figure the Dustbuster
draws ~1amp, so I need a clean, tight, connection.

Regardless, I'm going to have it welded tomorrow morning.

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 6:49 pm
From: "Shaun"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:si5gn6l975binpornel9emp4a4aa61i6oo@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 03:58:33 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>> Very last resort is to just slop some epoxy on the flat wire and
>>> battery terminal, and hope that it holds.
>>
>>Unless it's silver-filled epoxy, no way.
>
> I don't mean slopping the epoxy in between the battery terminal and
> the flat wire. I mean push the two wires together, and slop some
> epoxy on top in order to just hold them together. The Dustbuster
> doesn't draw all that much current so I suspect a simple mechanical
> connection will work. Kinda like the contacts for D cell batteries in
> kids toys, flashlights, games, etc, where a welded contact isn't
> necessary. If you're not sure if it will work, and don't want to deal
> with permanent epoxy, use Duct Tape to hold the flat wire in place.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
>

You're an idiot to suggest epoxy. The contacts will oxidize and then there
will be no connection, might take a couple of months before this happens,
but it will happen.

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 6:51 pm
From: mike

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>>> Very last resort is to just slop some epoxy on the flat wire and
>>>> battery terminal, and hope that it holds.
>
>>> Unless it's silver-filled epoxy, no way.
>
>> I don't mean slopping the epoxy in between the battery terminal and
>> the flat wire. I mean push the two wires together, and slop some
>> epoxy on top in order to just hold them together. The Dustbuster
>> doesn't draw all that much current so I suspect a simple mechanical
>> connection will work. Kinda like the contacts for D cell batteries in
>> kids toys, flashlights, games, etc, where a welded contact isn't
>> necessary.
>
> But there's a spring applying pressure.
>
>
>> If you're not sure if it will work, and don't want to deal with
>> permanent epoxy, use Duct Tape to hold the flat wire in place.
>
> The problem (from my point of view) is oxidation. I figure the Dustbuster
> draws ~1amp, so I need a clean, tight, connection.

You should measure it. I was too lazy to get out the big power supply,
but 3A would hardly get mine started.
I've replaced the batteries in mine twice and finally gave up.
The load current is very hard on batteries. Especially since people
don't stop when it slows down. They just keep on trucking pumping
5A backwards into the weakest cell. And the constant current
charge 24/7 is also very hard on the battery. Bad design.
>
> Regardless, I'm going to have it welded tomorrow morning.
>
>

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 8:21 pm
From: mike

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 08:16:00 -0800, mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Spot welding is a LOT harder than it sounds.
>
> I agree. I spent about 5 days tinkering with mine trying to get it
> right. Every time I added more capacitance, things improved. The
> basic trick is to make sure the resistance of the joint to be welded,
> is higher than all the other resistances (and ESR of the capacitor).
> Mine currently has two 3F 20v caps in parallel. Something like this:
> <http://ledhacks.com/power/battery_tab_welder.htm>

Interesting. Those welds are way better than anything I could get using
a microwave transformer and handheld electrodes. Spring loaded parallel
electrodes jigged to an arbor press improved things dramatically.
>
>> Just to use some round numbers that you can scale for your application...
>> If you expect to get 10,000 amps out of 10V, you can't have more than
>> a milliohm of resistance. That's the cap esr + the switch + the wire +
>> the contacts
>> + the contact resistance at the weld. And the only thing that does much
>> good is the amps x volts x time at the junction between the two parts
>> being welded plus a little in the weld material itself.
>
> Good point. However, I have no way to measure the peak current or the
> current necessary to do the weld. I just kept adding capacitance
> until it worked.

Yep, at the time I did the experiments, I didn't have a digital storage
scope
or anything that could measure 10,000 amps. My welds got dramatically
better about 10 minutes after I got the DSO and could study what was
happening.
>
>> An extra couple of milliohms in the system will render the welder impotent.
>> And the weld will be extremely sensitive to the contact resistance
>> between the weldments and thus the pressure applied and the contact area
>> and, and , and.
>
> Well, the idea is to dissipate the power in the connection, not in the
> capacitors, SCR, or contacts. As long as the capacitor is huge, the
> SCR oversized, wires beefy, and the contacts can handle both the
> current and the heat, it should work.

Yes, but...
CONTROL is critical. Some tiny resistance in the path makes the current
in the weld slightly less dependent on the contact resistance.
When dumping a cap into the weld, I found that the a small difference in
electrode pressure made the difference between no weld at all and a hole
in the tab...and no weld at all. Keeping it in the sweet spot was tough.
>
>> With a low-voltage AC welder made from a microwave oven
>> transformer, I was getting about 20% good welds. The commercial CD
>> welder with the same homebrew weld head was closer to 100% good.
>
> Apples and oranges. There's enough resistance in the transformer
> winding to probably make the welder useless. If the primary winding
> was made from copper buss bars, it might have a chance, but not a
> copper wire wound xformer. A big capacitor has an internal
> resistance, but that's MUCH less than the resistance of a wired
> transformer winding.

Your apples must be different from my apples.
My transformer had a two turn secondary of copper wire an inch in
diameter...4/0 wire if I remember correctly. I carefully controlled an
integral number of full cycles of 120VAC
into the primary. Took about six cycles to weld. Primary current
was about 30A and made the house hum on a 15A breaker.

I'd like to measure the current profile of some of the homebrew
welders linked from this thread. No way a 50 amps is gonna be useful.
People get away with a 50A SCR in the secondary only because the
single-pulse
peak current rating is WAY bigger than 50A. I've been using a 40A
SSR on the primary side.
>
>> You really want something that controls current rather than voltage.
>> Then, most of the variables end up in one place, the weld.
>> Using a higher voltage and some intentional, controlled series
>> resistance can make it much more reliable.
>
> Agreed. Voltage doesn't matter. It's the current that does the
> heating. If you shove XX Amps through YY ohms of resistance, it's
> going to heat I^2*R (Ohms Law). Whatever voltage it took to deliver
> that much current is largely irrelivent.

Yes, as long as you can control the current. Some resistance in the path
makes the current less dependent on the resistance at the weld.
You trade significant wasted energy for repeatability.
>
>> Many battery tabs are made of zinc. Easier to weld than stainless.
>> Hobby-Store 5mil brass is very easy to weld, but may be too high
>> resistance for a dust buster.
>
> I haven't seen any zinc tabs yet. I've seen tin plated steel and
> stainless. Brass should work for a Dustbuster as they don't draw all
> that much current.

Might want to measure that current. As I recall, mine was over 5A.

The weld current profile can also be important. You need to match the
energy in with the thermal time constant. A capacitor has peak
current at the time the contact resistance is highest.

The advantage of a dual-pulse welder is that the first pulse normalizes
the contact resistance somewhat. And with some effort, you can use the
voltage/current profile of the first pulse to match the characteristics
of the second pulse to a specific weld instance.

My CD welder claims to be able to put 7V into a milliohm. They dump
the cap into the primary of a transformer. That inductance gives the
current profile a softer start and spreads the energy out over a few
milliseconds.
>
>> Having said that, you can, with practice, make usable battery tab welds
>> with a capacitor bank, a pressure controlled contact system and a switch
>> made out of a nail. Charge the caps, apply weld pressure, slam the nail
>> across two BIG wires. I was using 4/0 wire. You get one weld per nail,
>> but nails are cheap.
>
> I used a copper contact knife switch. I welded the contacts a few
> times, but was able to break it apart, file it clean, and do it again.
>
> One more idea. Single sided resitance spot welder as used in auto
> body shops.
> <http://www.jcwhitney.com/spot-welder/p2007539.jcwx>
> However, you'll need an arc welder for this to work.
That ain't gonna work. The manual says hold it for 2 seconds.
the battery will be toast by then. And you have zero control
over what's happening. You can't wait for a battery weld to turn red.

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 8:39 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 17:03:31 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>>> Very last resort is to just slop some epoxy on the flat wire and
>>>> battery terminal, and hope that it holds.
>
>>> Unless it's silver-filled epoxy, no way.
>
>> I don't mean slopping the epoxy in between the battery terminal and
>> the flat wire. I mean push the two wires together, and slop some
>> epoxy on top in order to just hold them together. The Dustbuster
>> doesn't draw all that much current so I suspect a simple mechanical
>> connection will work. Kinda like the contacts for D cell batteries in
>> kids toys, flashlights, games, etc, where a welded contact isn't
>> necessary.
>
>But there's a spring applying pressure.

Bend the flat wire over a few times and you'll get some spring
pressure.

>> If you're not sure if it will work, and don't want to deal with
>> permanent epoxy, use Duct Tape to hold the flat wire in place.
>
>The problem (from my point of view) is oxidation. I figure the Dustbuster
>draws ~1amp, so I need a clean, tight, connection.

Apply duct tape for contact pressure. Bury the battery pack in
cellophane wrap for water, dust, and debris proofing.

>Regardless, I'm going to have it welded tomorrow morning.

Too easy but good luck anyway.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 8:42 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> You really want something that controls current rather than
>> voltage. Then, most of the variables end up in one place, the
>> weld. Using a higher voltage and some intentional, controlled
>> series resistance can make it much more reliable.

> Agreed. Voltage doesn't matter. It's the current that does the
> heating. If you shove XX Amps through YY ohms of resistance,
> it's going to heat I^2*R (Ohms Law). Whatever voltage it took to
> deliver that much current is largely irrelivent.

Same basic principle as electrocution.

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 8:44 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> The problem (from my point of view) is oxidation. I figure the Dustbuster
>> draws ~1amp, so I need a clean, tight, connection.

> You should measure it. I was too lazy to get out the big power supply,
> but 3A would hardly get mine started.
> I've replaced the batteries in mine twice and finally gave up.
> The load current is very hard on batteries. Especially since people
> don't stop when it slows down. They just keep on trucking pumping
> 5A backwards into the weakest cell. And the constant current
> charge 24/7 is also very hard on the battery. Bad design.

This is why I always run it at High (which uses all the cells), and stop a
bit after the motor starts to slow down. As a result, the battery pack is in
excellent condition.

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 9:01 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:49:02 -0600, "Shaun" <rowl@nomail.com> wrote:

>You're an idiot to suggest epoxy. The contacts will oxidize and then there
>will be no connection, might take a couple of months before this happens,
>but it will happen.

Ok, I'll bite. Stainless or Nickel oxidize? What electrolyte is in
epoxy that will attack stainless steel or nickel? Meanwhile, I can
buy epoxy paint, epoxy coated rebar, conductive (Aluminum doped)
epoxy, epoxy covering junction coating for cheap PCB packaging, etc. I
can also buy quite a few fiberglass marine hulls and decks, which are
held together by epoxy and have stainless deck fittings. No corrosion
warnings on any of the epoxy cans, bottles, and tubes that I can find.
It's certainly not hydroscopic so there's no electrolytic action. The
stainless and nickel are fairly close on the galvanic series:
<http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic_corrosion_chart.htm>

Sigh. Where is Dr. Barry L. Ornitz when we need him?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: IDC 40-pin connector for 80-conductor cable?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/468dba7cb3f71499?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 4:39 pm
From: Spehro Pefhany

On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 20:46:16 +0100, the renowned tuinkabouter
<dachthetniet@net.invalid> wrote:

>Op 3/7/2011 2:24 AM, DaveC schreef:
>>> The other side of the cable usually fixes that anyway...
>>
>> No it doesn't.
>>
>> There's no way to get 2 female connectors to mate pin 1 to pin 1.
>
>There are two types of connctors. One AMP and one other, i think ansley,
>but i'm not shure. They use different pins for the stiped wire.
>As long as you dont mix brands, you have no problems.
>But it can be used to switch pins.

Actually there are three kinds of connectors for this application and
they are color-coded (black, blue and grey).

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 8:15 pm
From: TheQuickBrownFox

On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 19:39:39 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

>On Mon, 07 Mar 2011 20:46:16 +0100, the renowned tuinkabouter
><dachthetniet@net.invalid> wrote:
>
>>Op 3/7/2011 2:24 AM, DaveC schreef:
>>>> The other side of the cable usually fixes that anyway...
>>>
>>> No it doesn't.
>>>
>>> There's no way to get 2 female connectors to mate pin 1 to pin 1.
>>
>>There are two types of connctors. One AMP and one other, i think ansley,
>>but i'm not shure. They use different pins for the stiped wire.
>>As long as you dont mix brands, you have no problems.
>>But it can be used to switch pins.
>
>Actually there are three kinds of connectors for this application and
>they are color-coded (black, blue and grey).
>
>
>Best regards,
>Spehro Pefhany

Wrong. There are three types of UDMA connector for UDMA applications.
Show me where that is what he asked for.

Note that he made NO request for any such item. He asked about a 40
pin parallel row (IDC) ribbon cable connector.

Since UDMA connectors typically have molded in keyed pins (not
useable), I doubt he wants a 39 pin connector.

IF he does want a UDMA connector, there are plenty to be found.

He wants the male header though, and that will NOT be a ribbon cable
crimp-on item, though they do exist.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Compact disc doesn't spin
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e56ec88a02f73b83?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 6:09 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.03.09.20.48.12@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Wed, 09 Mar 2011 01:36:57 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2011.03.08.21.19.58@lmao.lol.lol...
>>> On Tue, 08 Mar 2011 10:36:44 -0800, GARY wrote:
>>>
>>>> No error-code.
>>>>
>>>> After the 3 discs are cycled over the lens, the display says "No
>>>> Disc".
>>>
>>> You've got problems in the logic portion. If it were a laser problem
>>> the disc would rotate and the sled would slide the laser block in and
>>> out looking for a disc ID.
>>
>> Often not the case, Meat. Many players will not start to spin the disc
>> up or move the laser down its slides, unless focus lock is obtained, The
>> movement of about an inch is often an attempt to move the disc to a
>> different spot to retry the initial focusing operation, in case the
>> original spot on the disc was dirty or damaged. This small movement of
>> the disc may be carried out just the once, or several times before it
>> gives up and declares there to be no disc ...
>>
>> Just as a matter of interest, why has the OP started a new thread,
>> instead of continuing with his original, also called "Compact disc
>> doesn't spin" started two days ago ?
>>
>> Arfa
>
> I must be thinking of a DVD. Looking at this portable player with a
> window to see the disk as soon as the lid is closed the disc rotates
> and then the sled moves in and out. Been too long since I've worked on a
> CD player to remember if they do the same I guess.
>
>
>
No, no. You're quite right. Some players do just go ahead and spin the disc
up regardless, but by far the most common scheme is to first home the laser,
which is usually just a little shuffle if it's already home, then to obtain
focus, and when that is achieved, spin up the disc and get the tracking
servo locked before finally starting to read data to extract the timing for
the spindle servo. Once all of that is acomplished, the TOC is read in.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Application of SPST switch.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91c8e54779ed4c56?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 10:15 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Peter"
>
> This switch
> http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Product.aspx?pc=MLR-AMBER
> has terminals marked "PWR ACC GRD". How should it be connected?
>
> I'll speculate that PWR & ACC are for the circuit and GRD is for the
> lamp.
> If GRD is connected to the neutral conductor, the lamp is on when the
> switch is closed?

** That switch is strictly for 12 volt DC circuits.

The 12 volt lamp inside is connected across PWR and GND - so when the
switch connects the battery ( ACC) to the load it lights up.

..... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2011 Christian Louboutin New Style
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8798e6e1d7a9ba16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 9 2011 10:18 pm
From: wholesalejordan

2011 Christian Louboutin New Style
Christian Louboutin Alta Nodo dOrsay Pewter metallic
Christian Louboutin Alta Nodo Platform
Christian Louboutin Armadillo Satin
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Panasonic inverter microwave repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e81b196d6741fbf3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 10 2011 12:38 am
From: "Trevor Wilson"

I have a very nice (read: expensive) Panasonic microwave oven in for
service. It will actually end up being mine, when it's completed. It uses a
SMPS and has some nice features. The display and control systems seem to
work just fine. Anyway, it throws the earth leakage detector switch when
attempting to cook. Once of the power transistors measures S/C, so my
intention is to replace both transistors (with OEM parts), along with the
bridge rectifier (which is suggested by the manufacturer). The question is
this:

If I replace the power supply parts, how likely is it that the magetron is
faulty and the power supply will, again, be destroyed on power up?

Should I replace the magetron on spec? I checked the terminals to earth and
there appears to be no leakage, but you can never tell with these critters.
I guess it's safe to Megger test the magnetron (500 Volts)?

I don't usually do microwave ovens, so this is new territory for me.

TIA

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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