sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* reparing battery pack - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d9491f5db686f53?hl=en
* IDC 40-pin connector for 80-conductor cable? - 8 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/468dba7cb3f71499?hl=en
* power switch for B&D DB5400-1 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef61320b832f847e?hl=en
* Disc tray won't open - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3e448d3a0bd19cd?hl=en
* How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en
* Panasonic Inverter Microwave Oven Schematic request - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b00e79030ce1836?hl=en
* Boss TU-120 Electronic Tuner Schematic Roland LED Strobe Guitar Tuning - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9beb1a7b35ce5c6e?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: reparing battery pack
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d9491f5db686f53?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:18 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 05 Mar 2011 22:05:21 -0500, LSMFT wrote:

> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to stay
> in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace them
> with 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt
> the drill?

Better question, will it charge with the stock charger.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:57 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads
>> do I have to stay in the same mAh rating. The originals
>> are 1300mAh, I can replace them with 2300mAh cells
>> with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt
>> the drill?

> Better question, will it charge with the stock charger?

It should, unless the stock charger /required/ special cells for rapid
charge, or some other condition.

Using NiMH cells should eliminate any problem, as they (generally) tolerate
rapid charging. I used regular NiMH cells for a Polaroid #365 electronic
flash, and the #363 rapid charger handles them fine, even though it was
designed for rapid-charge nicads.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:39 am
From: Jim Yanik

LSMFT <LSMFT@teranews.com> wrote in
news:QRCcp.27351$Pg4.20520@newsfe22.iad:

> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to stay
> in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace them
> with 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt
> the drill?
>
>
>
>

No,they will not hurt your drill,as long as the pack voltage remains the
same. it will draw the current it needs,and no more.
Makita switched their packs from NiCd to NiMH for an increase in run
time,NiMH having more mAH,a higher energy density than NiCd.
the drills stayed the same,the charger is where the difference is,for the
different battery chemistry.
NiMH have to be charged differently than NiCds.

NiMH are better cells,IMO.
they keep a charge longer,besides their higher mAH.

I've never seen 4000mAH sub-C NiCd cells,who makes them?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 11:17 am
From: Mike Cook

> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to stay
> in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace them
> with 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt
> the drill?

I'd read somewhere that as mA rating goes up for a given cell size the
insulators get thinner and the battery is more at risk from heat (during
charge and discharge) than lower mA cells.

Someone more knowledgeable re. battery chemistry can probably answer here or
at

sci.chem.electrochem.battery

Good luck.

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 11:35 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 06 Mar 2011 09:57:07 -0800, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>>> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to
>>> stay in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace
>>> them with 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh
>>> hurt the drill?
>
>> Better question, will it charge with the stock charger?
>
> It should, unless the stock charger /required/ special cells for rapid
> charge, or some other condition.
>
> Using NiMH cells should eliminate any problem, as they (generally)
> tolerate rapid charging. I used regular NiMH cells for a Polaroid #365
> electronic flash, and the #363 rapid charger handles them fine, even
> though it was designed for rapid-charge nicads.

I'd be cautious of the charger meeting the requirements of 2300 mAh cells
without it struggling.

Been dealing with these issues for many years in battery packs for my
handy talkies. I have a spare 7.2v 1400 mAh pack for my Vertex FT-60.
It won't charge slow but drop it in the rapid charger and it charges just
fine. Doesn't make much sense. I own a Maha multi charger that uses a
temp probe placed on the cells to help decide the charge.

I switched to all NMiH AAA cells for our keyboards/mice hand held GPS
etc.. Two chargers ant 4 packs of 2300 mAh cells. Smartest thing I've
done in awhile.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 11:59 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Mar 5, 9:05 pm, LSMFT <LS...@teranews.com> wrote:
> When I rebuild my drill battery pack with new C nicads do I have to stay
> in the same mAh rating. The originals are 1300mAh, I can replace them
> with 2300mAh cells with tabs. Or even 4000mAh ones. Will more mAh hurt
> the drill?
>
> --
> LSMFT
>
> Force shits upon the Back of Reason...
> Ben Franklin-

No, the higher maH means the drill will run longer on a fully charged
battery. Keep an eye on the charger overheating the first few times
you use the new pack as it will draw a little more current from the
charger and will also have to charge longer to fully charge the higher
capacity batteries.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:47 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Using NiMH cells should eliminate any problem, as they (generally)
>> tolerate rapid charging. I used regular NiMH cells for a Polaroid #365
>> electronic flash, and the #363 rapid charger handles them fine, even
>> though it was designed for rapid-charge nicads.

> I'd be cautious of the charger meeting the requirements of 2300 mAh
> cells without it struggling.

The charger doesn't "know" the cell's capacity. It just pumps current into
it. The better class of chargers shuts off when a particular cell voltage
(and/or some other condition) has been reached.

> Been dealing with these issues for many years in battery packs for my
> handy talkies. I have a spare 7.2v 1400 mAh pack for my Vertex FT-60.
> It won't charge slow but drop it in the rapid charger and it charges just
> fine. Doesn't make much sense. I own a Maha multi charger that uses
> a temp probe placed on the cells to help decide the charge.

I have two MAHA C9000 chargers. I wish they'd been available 40 years ago.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: IDC 40-pin connector for 80-conductor cable?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/468dba7cb3f71499?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:25 am
From: Smitty Two

In article
<0001HW.C998EF22010B1A7DB02A89BF@news.eternal-september.org>,
DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

> Looking for IDC male connector, 40-pin for 80-conductor ribbon cable.
>
> This is used on IDE hard drives.
>
> Or an 80-conductor cable with 1 each 40-pin male & female connectors.
>
> Can't seem to find a source, but that is probably because I'm not using good
> search terms...
>
> Anyone know where to find these?
>
> Thanks.

How about giving a female end a sex change by plugging a pin header into
it?

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:32 am
From: DaveC

> How about giving a female end a sex change by plugging a pin header into
> it?

This results in reversing the pin assignments, ie, pin 1 connects to pin 2.
Not good.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:48 am
From: "langwadt@fonz.dk"

On 6 Mar., 18:32, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> > How about giving a female end a sex change by plugging a pin header into
> > it?
>
> This results in reversing the pin assignments, ie, pin 1 connects to pin 2.
> Not good.

put the female connector on the reverse side in one end?

might even add (or remove) the strain relief that go on top of some
idc connector
so the connectors will still look to be on the same side

-Lasse

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:39 am
From: DaveC

> put the female connector on the reverse side in one end?

The configuration of IDC connectors is such that you can put the connector on
either side of the cable (with the #1 pin indicator at the same end) and you
maintain the same pin connections. In other words, you can't reverse pins by
flipping the connector.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 11:45 am
From: Spehro Pefhany

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 07:58:26 -0800, the renowned DaveC
<invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>Looking for IDC male connector, 40-pin for 80-conductor ribbon cable.
>
>This is used on IDE hard drives.
>
>Or an 80-conductor cable with 1 each 40-pin male & female connectors.
>
>Can't seem to find a source, but that is probably because I'm not using good
>search terms...
>
>Anyone know where to find these?
>
>Thanks.

I don't think you'll find them. The female connectors have shorting
links inside and I don't think I've ever seen a male one. Maybe you'll
have to lay out a PCB.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:35 pm
From: I AM THAT I AM

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 07:58:26 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>Looking for IDC male connector, 40-pin for 80-conductor ribbon cable.
>
>This is used on IDE hard drives.
>
>Or an 80-conductor cable with 1 each 40-pin male & female connectors.
>
>Can't seem to find a source, but that is probably because I'm not using good
>search terms...
>
>Anyone know where to find these?
>
>Thanks.

UDMA cables have specific "keying" where specific pins are not used.

They are differential pairs where every other conductor is ground.

Try hunting for UDMA male if you can handle the missing key.

Not sure if clamping a standard 40 pin IDC onto an 80 pin flat cable
yields the same thing. Probably does as I can't think of anything about
a UDMA cable connector that is different other than the blocked pin.

goddamned cross-posting idiot.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:41 pm
From: I AM THAT I AM

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 08:37:57 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>>
>http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010010001%2011775
>
>> 2968&name=IDE?cm_sp=cablessubcat001-_-flashstorefront-_-ide
>
>Those are cables with typically 1 female connector at one end and 2 female
>connectors at the other end.
>
>I need 1 female and 1 male connector.
>
>IDC male 40-pin for 80-conductor flat cable are apparently made from
>unobtainium...
>
>Dave

Desolder this:

http://www.satacables.com/html/sata_to_ide_adapter.html

Or buy this:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RAH-40/RIGHT-ANGLE-HEADER-40-PIN-MALE//1.html

or buy the pins and make the header yourself without the shroud:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/192/Headers/1.html

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:52 pm
From: I AM THAT I AM

On Sun, 6 Mar 2011 09:32:30 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:

>> How about giving a female end a sex change by plugging a pin header into
>> it?
>
>This results in reversing the pin assignments, ie, pin 1 connects to pin 2.
>Not good.

This is also untrue and incorrect. It does not change the fact that it
was a stupid suggestion though.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: power switch for B&D DB5400-1
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef61320b832f847e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 9:53 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> It's a fairly large switch (not the stereotypical slide switch),
>> and it's a two-pole triple-throw.

> You're sure it isn't DPDT with center OFF (ON-OFF-ON?)

Nope. There are four pairs of contacts (left/right), and (as far as I can
tell) a single slider that bridges two on a side at a time. The switch thus
has three distinct positions. The purpose is to provide "normal" and
"high-power" positions by changing the number of cells. *

After thinking some more, I realized the simplest solution is to drill a
hole and insert a heavy-duty double-pole toggle switch that will bridge the
switch contacts for high power.

* This is, of course, bad design. If you use the vacuum mostly in normal
mode, those cells will wear out much more quickly. Which I why I always run
the unit in high.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Disc tray won't open
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3e448d3a0bd19cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:15 am
From: GARY

Sharp Mini Component System (model CD-C420)

When I press the OPEN/CLOSE button, the disc tray doesn't open.

How can I open the tray?

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:18 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Open the unit and inspect it carefully to see if anything is jamming the
tray. It's also possible there's a problem with the switch that indicates
whether the tray is open or closed.

It's also possible the open/close button is kaput.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:54 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Mar 6, 10:18 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> Open the unit and inspect it carefully to see if anything is jamming the
> tray. It's also possible there's a problem with the switch that indicates
> whether the tray is open or closed.
>
> It's also possible the open/close button is kaput.

gunked up lubricant, belts slipping too.

G²

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 11:12 am
From: GARY

Aha! I took the top of the 3-disc player off and I discovered 4 (!)
discs.

I took them all out and the tray now opens and closes!

I then put 3 discs back in the tray and closed the tray.

But now, when each disc is positioned over the read lens, the disk
doesn't spin (it moves only about 1/2 inch and stops) and "No Disk" is
displayed on the front panel.

Any suggestions?

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:44 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Check the laser. It might be dirty. (Considering you had too many disks in
the changer, heaven knows what else might be there!)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 10:52 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Mar 6, 7:35 am, Bob Villa <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote:
> This is common to almost all flat panel power supplies. There are 4
> electrolytic capacitors (same physical size) on the switching PS.
> There are 2) 1000uF X 10V and 2) 470uF X 15V that usually bulge and/or
> fail. You shouldn't pay more than .25to .50c for each. (I used higher
> voltage on the replacements of 1000x15 and 470x25)
> Symptoms of failure are: slow power-up or totally dead.

Look for highest ripple current rating. Nichicon HZ, HN, Panasonic FM

G²

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Panasonic Inverter Microwave Oven Schematic request
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b00e79030ce1836?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:01 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Mar 5, 8:29 pm, invalid <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> I am experimenting with the inverter board from the Panasonic
> NN-H665BF microwave oven (part no. F66456G01AP) in an effort
> to convert it from constant power to constant voltage and
> reduce output noise, ripple, and voltage to 2kV.  I have
> the schematic for a somewhat similar Panasonic oven, the
> NN-G62BH, but there are big differences, especially that
> my oven inverter uses only a single IGBT driver, has
> no current transformer and uses a very different control
> IC.
>
> In a web forum, a poster mentioned having schematics for
> these ovens on a 'Panasonic Service Manual CD' but I have
> not found any other reference to this online.
>
> Does anyone have a schematic or could point me to a source
> (the Panasonic website only shows 'Instruction Manuals'
> which are users' guides.)?
>
> Hopefully I can save the many hours required to trace the
> PCB.  Thanks,
>
> Michael

have you looked insuide the covers for glued-on schematics??

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Boss TU-120 Electronic Tuner Schematic Roland LED Strobe Guitar Tuning
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9beb1a7b35ce5c6e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Mar 6 2011 12:09 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Mar 4, 6:28 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Wild_Bill <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:Jp_bp.678852$Bh.130692@en-nntp-12.dc1.easynews.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have an older Boss TU120 tuner (maybe 1979) that seems to need
> adjustment
> > repaired, but have been unable to locate a schematic or service manual.
>
> > The output frequency at the Monitor jack, appears to be incorrect for the
> > internal Calibrate settings, and when checked with a reliable counter
> > (SC3100 AutoTracker readout) the freq is about 432Hz, when I think it
> should
> > be adjustable to over 440Hz.
>
> > I was about to ask Roland Support when I saw that they require registered
> > user identity sign-in/account to be established before asking a question.
>
> > I have the operating instructions, and it describes the pot adjustment for
> > the internal Calibrate steps, as  something like "adjust the front panel
> Cal
> > (pot) until the drifting stops, and the LEDs appear to be stopped/remain
> > stationary".
>
> > The point of rotation where the front panel Cal pot gets the LEDs to stop
> > drifting is all the way to the end stop of the rotation, so I can't find
> the
> > mid position between scroll left/scroll right.. and the freq is about
> 432Hz,
> > not 440, when I assume that it should be able to adjust from below 440 to
> > over 440Hz as the Calibrate pot is adjusted.
>
> > The Calibrate output freq is independent of the 12-position Note Selector
> > switch.
>
> > I marked the 2 internal PC mount pots before twiddling them, but the freq
> > doesn't get to 440Hz.
> > After tweaking, I can see 129Hz For "C", not 130.81..(possibly just a
> > counter accuracy tolerance issue) but 242Hz for "B", not 246.9Hz.
>
> > I believe the tuning reference freq is from a 3-terminal component marked
> > Iwata 880.0 T (3 '79 Japan) with a tuning fork symbol on it.
>
> > I'm operating at a musically impaired level here, as I've only recently
> > become interested in learning to play guitar, and I don't fully comprehend
> a
> > lot of how actual frequencies relate to notes, other than the harmonics.
>
> > I have a functionig Boss TU-12 Chromatic tuner, so I don't really need the
> > older tuner, but I'd like to know if I can get it to work properly, since
> it
> > does have a strobing display that easier to see at a distance, moreso than
> > the-needs-to-be-positioned-closely TU-12's meter pointer.
>
> > I'd also like to lower the non-adjustable speaker volume too, perhaps
> later.
>
> > I don't think installing a 0-6 volume knob would be a solution.
>
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > WB
> > .............
>
> I would guess you have an 880Hz version of the 360Hz elements in these
> watcheshttp://members.shaw.ca/abts/218_technical.htm
> then corrossion over the decades slowing the frequency of the fork. There is
> probably some range limiting resistors to the Cal pot. You could probably
> get away with changing one/both of them a bit to change the capture range,- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Does the questionable unit have an 880 setting? Can you cross-
reference the good unit to the questionable unit at any frequency?

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