sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product) - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
* OT: Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink compound? - 8 messages, 5
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
* Video cassette - topology question - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
* LM386 chip amp picks up radio interference. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/809031519d942490?hl=en
* Electric dog fence installation trouble - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3d11a1277a30303?hl=en
* Annoying Clock on Microwave - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
* Really "need to" replace older CATV cables? Would my cableprovider really
filter my line against my will? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31e43b6766887486?hl=en
* free shipping paypal payment wholesale CLOTHING jacket T-shirt long sleeve
suit and hoody(Franklin Marshall,Monclereiderdown,nike,adidas,a&f,d&g,ed
harday,bape,bbc,lv,gucci,armani,polo, poul smith and so on)/http://www.24hours-
online.com/ - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0507b0f023edb607?hl=en
* Chloe Handbags cheapsaler (http://www.brandtrade66.com) - (paypal - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae07fdc381683259?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 1:51 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >
>> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
>> > problems
>> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
>>
>> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
>> 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.
>
>
> Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
> of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
> took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
> manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
> which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.

Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
have one on my bench for music.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 6:12 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow wrote:
> >>
> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >> >
> >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
> >> > problems
> >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
> >>
> >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
> >> 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.
> >
> >
> > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
> > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
> > took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
> > manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
> > which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
>
> Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
> tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
> the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
> finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
> sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
> have one on my bench for music.

I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink compound?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 2:01 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 19:28:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 19:27:39 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywattt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>The best compound is one of micronized silver and ceramic particles.
>>After all you are trying to fill microscopic voids between device and
>>heatsink so they need to fit.
>
> If you must use a compound, I suggest a mix of some kind of grease that
> will vaporize when the heat is applied (hopefully leaving little
> residue), and diamond dust:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Material_properties_of_diamond#Thermal_conductivity>
> Silver is good, but diamonds are much better.
>
> However, the ultimate in thermal conductivity is still metal to metal. A
> good example are the diodes used in automotive alternators and
> industrial power equipment. These diodes are press fitted with an arbor
> press into the heat sink. Metal to metal at it best with not even
> microscopic gaps. I tried to get the RF power xsistor vendors
> interested in an interferenc fit package, but because I didn't have a
> sufficiently large purchase order, they weren't interested.

Yep the best is no need for any compound. But in an imperfect world it's
not possible on much consumer grade electronics. I switched to the Arctic
Silver paste after using a generic white compound on my new PC CPU. It's
a 120 watt quad core AMD overclocked from 3.2 to 4 ghz. I noticed the CPU
running very near its upper limit so I removed the compound and applied
the Arctic paste. The results were a 5-7 degree Celsius drop in idle and
load temperatures. The cooling apparatus was packaged with the CPU so I
know it was designed specifically for it. No it's not a drastic drop
in temp but enough to convince me that for my purposes it's the best
choice of pastes.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 5:20 pm
From: Bob Villa

On Apr 24, 10:07 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
> "Bob Villa" <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:0a0e4aa2-74a4-4c20-bb66-5b2b021bec7f@u15g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
>
> >http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gask...
>
> > It would "seem" to have good properties for filling minute gaps;
> > copper for heat transfer; can't dry-out; not a bonding type on
> > silicone.
>
> > Thanks
> > bob_v
>
> This stuff is NOT a silicone grease but rather a room temperature
> vulcanizing silicone rubber. There is no copper in it, and it is a poor
> heat conductor. General Electric used to be the manufacturer, but it
> appears that they have sold out to a Chinese company. If memory serves
> it used to be either RTV-60, RTV-650, or RTV-106. I cannot remember
> which is the two-part and which is the one-part material. MG Chemicals
> is a distributor for Momentive Performance Materials, the _obviously_
> Chinese company that makes it now. They do make two higher thermal
> conductivity silicones known as TSE3331 and TSE3941. The former is a
> grey potting and encapsulating compound while the latter is a white
> adhesive.
>
> As Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> pointed out, the smoother the
> surfaces are and the closer they fit, the better the heat transfer will
> be. All the silicone heat transfer grease does is fill the microscopic
> void spaces (dead air space is a good thermal insulator).
>
> Working around chemists, I had easy access to silicone vacuum stopcock
> grease. I have used it in a pinch for thermal grease and it worked well.
> You can find a similar grease in the plumbing department of Lowes and
> Home Depot. It is used to lubricate valve stems, rubber seals, and those
> ungodly expensive ceramic Price-Pfister faucets. It will work far better
> than any Permatex product as a heat transfer grease.
>
> Oh, and one other reason to not use Permatex in this application. This
> silicone is an acetoxy cure which means it releases corrosive acetic acid
> when it cures.
>
> Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at live.com

The tube I have says, "Made in USA".

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 5:48 pm
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

Bob Villa wrote:
> On Apr 24, 10:07 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
> > "Bob Villa" <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >
> > news:0a0e4aa2-74a4-4c20-bb66-5b2b021bec7f@u15g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > >http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gask...
> >
> > > It would "seem" to have good properties for filling minute gaps;
> > > copper for heat transfer; can't dry-out; not a bonding type on
> > > silicone.
> >
> > > Thanks
> > > bob_v
> >
> > This stuff is NOT a silicone grease but rather a room temperature
> > vulcanizing silicone rubber. There is no copper in it, and it is a poor
> > heat conductor. General Electric used to be the manufacturer, but it
> > appears that they have sold out to a Chinese company. If memory serves
> > it used to be either RTV-60, RTV-650, or RTV-106. I cannot remember
> > which is the two-part and which is the one-part material. MG Chemicals
> > is a distributor for Momentive Performance Materials, the _obviously_
> > Chinese company that makes it now. They do make two higher thermal
> > conductivity silicones known as TSE3331 and TSE3941. The former is a
> > grey potting and encapsulating compound while the latter is a white
> > adhesive.
> >
> > As Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> pointed out, the smoother the
> > surfaces are and the closer they fit, the better the heat transfer will
> > be. All the silicone heat transfer grease does is fill the microscopic
> > void spaces (dead air space is a good thermal insulator).
> >
> > Working around chemists, I had easy access to silicone vacuum stopcock
> > grease. I have used it in a pinch for thermal grease and it worked well.
> > You can find a similar grease in the plumbing department of Lowes and
> > Home Depot. It is used to lubricate valve stems, rubber seals, and those
> > ungodly expensive ceramic Price-Pfister faucets. It will work far better
> > than any Permatex product as a heat transfer grease.
> >
> > Oh, and one other reason to not use Permatex in this application. This
> > silicone is an acetoxy cure which means it releases corrosive acetic acid
> > when it cures.
> >
> > Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at live.com
>
> Thank you, Dr.

The Dr. is right, except for possibly one point: Ultra Copper does
NOT release acetic acid when it cures because it's instead alcohol-
based to be safe for use in cars equipped with exhaust oxygen
sensors. All of the Permatex silicone RTVs with the word "Ultra" in
their names are made for oxygen sensor compatibility, and all of them
smell like alcohol before they're cured. Also "Copper" refers only to
the color (actually reddish brown) and physical characteristics and is
not an indication of any copper content (none). BTW Permatex doesn't
produce silicone RTV in different colors merely for cosmetic purposes,
and many if not all of the colors indicate different physical
characteristics. For example, Ultra Copper is made to withstand
higher temperatures than any of their other RTVs, while Ultra Grey is
for gaskets with bolts that are close together, and they have others
made for withstanding gear oil or antifreeze:

www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers.htm

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 6:28 pm
From: "Barry"

"Bob Villa" <pheeh.zero@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a42aa133-7d44-4573-85b0-6cf2fd911fb4@q32g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 24, 10:07 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
> "Bob Villa" <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:0a0e4aa2-74a4-4c20-bb66-5b2b021bec7f@u15g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
>
> >http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gask...
>
> > It would "seem" to have good properties for filling minute gaps;
> > copper for heat transfer; can't dry-out; not a bonding type on
> > silicone.
>
> > Thanks
> > bob_v
>
> This stuff is NOT a silicone grease but rather a room temperature
> vulcanizing silicone rubber. There is no copper in it, and it is a poor
> heat conductor. General Electric used to be the manufacturer, but it
> appears that they have sold out to a Chinese company. If memory serves
> it used to be either RTV-60, RTV-650, or RTV-106. I cannot remember
> which is the two-part and which is the one-part material. MG Chemicals
> is a distributor for Momentive Performance Materials, the _obviously_
> Chinese company that makes it now. They do make two higher thermal
> conductivity silicones known as TSE3331 and TSE3941. The former is a
> grey potting and encapsulating compound while the latter is a white
> adhesive.

~The tube I have says, "Made in USA".

I suspect Permatex used to buy from GE because their sales would be too
small to manufacture it themselves. If you look for GE silicones, many
companies still stock them. However if it is made in China and sold in
bulk and Permatex packages it for sale, I think they can get away with
calling it "Made in the USA."

If you go to a gardening supply and buy genuine Holland tulip bulbs, you
will likely get bulbs grown in Washington state. These bulbs are shipped
to the Netherlands and packaged. This allows them to be called "imported
from Holland."

Most pharmaceutical intermediates are today made in India or China, and
many drugs are totally made there and shipped to U.S. manufacturers who
compound the drugs with fillers and then stamp out the pills. They then
qualify as U.S. made pills.

As you no doubt can tell, I am not very enamored with the pharmaceutical
industry. I take colchicine for ankylosing spondylitis. As a drug, it
has been around for over 2000 years and is normally used to treat gout.
My usage is "off-label" meaning it was prescribed for other than its
approved use. My rheumatologist gave it to me for its anti-inflammatory
properties since my congestive heart failure prevents me from using
NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs reduce your kidney
function). A number of generic drug manufacturers made it and a three
month supply cost less than $10. One "unnamed" pharmaceutical
manufacturer decided to go through the FDA testing and got it approved.
They then were able to get the FDA to force all the generic houses to
stop selling it. That three month supply is now well over $400. By the
way, these numbers are AFTER insurance.

"Made in the United States of America" somehow doesn't mean what it once
did.

73, Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at
live.com

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 7:05 pm
From: Bob Villa

On Apr 25, 8:28 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
> "Bob Villa" <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:a42aa133-7d44-4573-85b0-6cf2fd911fb4@q32g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 24, 10:07 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Bob Villa" <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:0a0e4aa2-74a4-4c20-bb66-5b2b021bec7f@u15g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
>
> > >http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gask...
>
> > > It would "seem" to have good properties for filling minute gaps;
> > > copper for heat transfer; can't dry-out; not a bonding type on
> > > silicone.
>
> > > Thanks
> > > bob_v
>
> > This stuff is NOT a silicone grease but rather a room temperature
> > vulcanizing silicone rubber. There is no copper in it, and it is a poor
> > heat conductor. General Electric used to be the manufacturer, but it
> > appears that they have sold out to a Chinese company. If memory serves
> > it used to be either RTV-60, RTV-650, or RTV-106. I cannot remember
> > which is the two-part and which is the one-part material. MG Chemicals
> > is a distributor for Momentive Performance Materials, the _obviously_
> > Chinese company that makes it now. They do make two higher thermal
> > conductivity silicones known as TSE3331 and TSE3941. The former is a
> > grey potting and encapsulating compound while the latter is a white
> > adhesive.
>
> ~The tube I have says, "Made in USA".
>
> I suspect Permatex used to buy from GE because their sales would be too
> small to manufacture it themselves. If you look for GE silicones, many
> companies still stock them. However if it is made in China and sold in
> bulk and Permatex packages it for sale, I think they can get away with
> calling it "Made in the USA."
>
> If you go to a gardening supply and buy genuine Holland tulip bulbs, you
> will likely get bulbs grown in Washington state. These bulbs are shipped
> to the Netherlands and packaged. This allows them to be called "imported
> from Holland."
>
> Most pharmaceutical intermediates are today made in India or China, and
> many drugs are totally made there and shipped to U.S. manufacturers who
> compound the drugs with fillers and then stamp out the pills. They then
> qualify as U.S. made pills.
>
> As you no doubt can tell, I am not very enamored with the pharmaceutical
> industry. I take colchicine for ankylosing spondylitis. As a drug, it
> has been around for over 2000 years and is normally used to treat gout.
> My usage is "off-label" meaning it was prescribed for other than its
> approved use. My rheumatologist gave it to me for its anti-inflammatory
> properties since my congestive heart failure prevents me from using
> NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs reduce your kidney
> function). A number of generic drug manufacturers made it and a three
> month supply cost less than $10. One "unnamed" pharmaceutical
> manufacturer decided to go through the FDA testing and got it approved.
> They then were able to get the FDA to force all the generic houses to
> stop selling it. That three month supply is now well over $400. By the
> way, these numbers are AFTER insurance.
>
> "Made in the United States of America" somehow doesn't mean what it once
> did.
>
> 73, Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters
> live.com

Are you the doctor that writes on nutrition?

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 7:05 pm
From: "Barry"

"larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:16d67a3d-32c5-43f5-84db-7751d0f1358c@k40g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
> The Dr. is right, except for possibly one point: Ultra Copper does
> NOT release acetic acid when it cures because it's instead alcohol-
> based to be safe for use in cars equipped with exhaust oxygen
> sensors. All of the Permatex silicone RTVs with the word "Ultra" in
> their names are made for oxygen sensor compatibility, and all of them
> smell like alcohol before they're cured. Also "Copper" refers only to
> the color (actually reddish brown) and physical characteristics and is
> not an indication of any copper content (none). BTW Permatex doesn't
> produce silicone RTV in different colors merely for cosmetic purposes,
> and many if not all of the colors indicate different physical
> characteristics. For example, Ultra Copper is made to withstand
> higher temperatures than any of their other RTVs, while Ultra Grey is
> for gaskets with bolts that are close together, and they have others
> made for withstanding gear oil or antifreeze:

You are correct. Permatex Ultra products are an alcohol cure. But they
still make two high temperature red silicones that are an acetoxy cure.
They, and the Ultra Copper silicones, are all brick red.

When I worked at Eastman Chemical Company's research labs, I was called
in to work on a problem with the thermocouples in their coal gasifiers.
Their maintenance people were using an acetoxy cure one-part GE red
silicone to encapsulate and insulate the "cold" end of the thermocouple
assembly. What they did not realize was that the silicone would only
cure to a depth of about 1/4 inch. The deeper material was uncured. I
had them switch to a two-part cure that did not create any volatile
byproducts that had to diffuse out through the cured "skin." I wish all
problems were so easy to fix.

This 1/4 inch issue can be a problem when a wide gasket is needed. The
material will cure along the outside edges, but still be uncured in the
middle. When the gasket gets hot, the uncured material can cause
localized over pressurization. If you forgetfully leave the cap off a
tube of silicone, a cured plug will form. This can usually be pulled out
allowing the rest of the tube to be used so try this before throwing the
tube away.

73, Barry WA4VZQ

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 7:17 pm
From: "Barry"

"Bob Villa" <pheeh.zero@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3eae9f09-2e5b-4b53-97f8-e53fb9cb8d94@x18g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 25, 8:28 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:

> Are you the doctor that writes on nutrition?

No. In my case the "doctor" refers to my having a PhD. I am an oddball
having a PhD in chemical engineering while minoring in electrical
engineering and automatic control. At Eastman, I worked in a group that
designed and built custom instrumentation for their manufacturing
divisions. I later worked for W. L. Gore & Associates before retiring. I
have been on the Usenet newsgroups since 1983.

How many chemical engineers do you know that took graduate courses in
antennas and transmission lines? ;-)

Barry

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 7:26 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:28:22 -0400, "Barry" <none@nospam.org> wrote:

>If you go to a gardening supply and buy genuine Holland tulip bulbs, you
>will likely get bulbs grown in Washington state. These bulbs are shipped
>to the Netherlands and packaged. This allows them to be called "imported
>from Holland."

When I was in Hawaii, the local Macadamia nuts were shipped to Los
Angeles, packaged, and shipped back for sales to the tourists.

Made in USA:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Made_in_USA>
and from the FTC point of view, which is a confusing mess:
<http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus03-complying-made-usa-standard>
<http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/35821593/ns/business-us_business/>

>Most pharmaceutical intermediates are today made in India or China, and
>many drugs are totally made there and shipped to U.S. manufacturers who
>compound the drugs with fillers and then stamp out the pills. They then
>qualify as U.S. made pills.

It's possible to buy direct for India or China via various internet
vendors and spammers. The problem is that most of these don't contain
any of the advertised drugs. Great for a placebo, but not much else.

>(...)
>A number of generic drug manufacturers made it and a three
>month supply cost less than $10. One "unnamed" pharmaceutical
>manufacturer decided to go through the FDA testing and got it approved.
>They then were able to get the FDA to force all the generic houses to
>stop selling it. That three month supply is now well over $400. By the
>way, these numbers are AFTER insurance.

This horror story is also at:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colchicine#Marketing_exclusivity>
Basically, the FDA gave them an exclusive in trade for paying for
their own drug tests, thus saving the FDA some budget money. Of
course, the FDA is defending their actions with various excuses but
never mentioning the cost to the public. However, they did release a
drug interaction warning at the same time probably intended to
convince the public that Colchicine is too dangerous to remain an
uncontrolled drug:
<http://www.fda.gov/Safety/MedWatch/SafetyInformation/SafetyAlertsforHumanMedicalPRoducts/ucm174596.htm>

Drivel: I was synthesizing some of my own prescription drugs for a
while. The kitchen looked like Dr Frankenstein's laboratory.
Synthesis was generally successful, but I had only limited equipment
and ability to do potency tests. After two accidental overdoses, I
decided that this was not going to work. Even with the cost of all
the expensive reagents, glassware, and hardware, it was still cheaper
than paying retail for the drugs. Unfortunately, I can't deduct the
costs as a medical expense on my taxes. I managed to get one sample
tested and analyzed by a lab before they deduced what I was doing and
suggested I go elsewhere. However, now that I know the potency of
this one batch, I have the equivalent of a 20 year supply.

>"Made in the United States of America" somehow doesn't mean what it once
>did.

If we went on a protectionist tariff frenzy, and decide to "promote"
domestic manufacture, the prices of just about everything will go
dramatically higher. Given the choice, methinks Joe Sixpack would
chose to perpetuate the current mess. At this time "Made in USA"
means "you overpaid".

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Video cassette - topology question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 2:03 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 11:50:33 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange.
> Taking the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping
> both spools horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out.
> Then would you expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring
> tape laying back to normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape
> mean the scrunched tape has looped over the top of the spool flange
> before scrunching or stayed within the plane of the normal tape passage,
> ie the volume of space of width of the tape.

Could you please translate that into common English?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 2:05 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:16:01 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>>> Mr Cook, your writing is often unclear. You sometimes write as if
>>> English were not your native language. You need to learn to write more
>>> clearly.
>
>> As I understood him, he asked if videocassette tape was meant to have a
>> half- (or greater) twist. Or, by extension, should it lay untwisted
>> like an audiotape, whether open reel or cassette.
>
> Thanks.
>
> The answer, of course, is untwisted.

Oh that's what he said. Well crap, it's simply logic that tells you tapes
should not be twisted.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:23 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.04.25.21.02.49@emutt.macspoofer.lmao...
> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 11:50:33 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> > spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange.
> > Taking the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping
> > both spools horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out.
> > Then would you expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring
> > tape laying back to normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape
> > mean the scrunched tape has looped over the top of the spool flange
> > before scrunching or stayed within the plane of the normal tape passage,
> > ie the volume of space of width of the tape.
>
> Could you please translate that into common English?
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

How do you explain a Klein bottle in text ?
It is a topological question involving twists and turns. If when a tape
runs at full tilt back and the other end hits the clear tape end stop,
failing of rate sensor. In that jarring of the tape, if it loops over the
spool and between the spool flange and the clear cover of the cassette,
before tightening up and jamming between the reel of tape and the spool
flange, will it lead to a twist in the tape .

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LM386 chip amp picks up radio interference.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/809031519d942490?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 3:05 pm
From: Father Haskell

On Apr 24, 8:51 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "Father Haskell"
> "Phil Allison"
> > "Father Haskell"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > > Homemade, powered by small 13 vct transformer from an old
> > > > boom box and LM317T regulator (ps seems capable of 14v clean
> > > > power, easily). Sounds like it's picking up the nearest AM station,
> > > > especially loud and clear when I touch the volume and gain control
> > > > shafts. Touching the heat sink behind the 317 with a fingertip
> > > > _quiets_ the interference, though.
>
> > > ** Lemme guess - you have the IC in a plastic box with no shielding of
> > > any
> > > kind ?
>
> > Wooden box, open, power supply board and transformer laid
> > on workbench and connected with jumpers.
>
> > ** RFI heaven.
>
> > Pun intended......
>
> > > Ideally, there needs to be a metal box that is connected to the negative
> > > supply, pin 4 of the IC plus the metal parts of any pots. Alternatively,
> > > connect the metal fames of each pot to the negative rail ( pin 4) and
> > > add
> > > a
> > > cap of about 2200pF across pins 2 and 4 to bypass radio frequency
> > > energy.
>
> > Easily fixed by covering the inside of the box with foil duct tape.
>
> > ** Maybe so, but making reliable electrical connection to such foil is not
> > so easy.
>
> > Nuts, bolts and solder lugs are essential.
>
> 8 x 1 sheet metal screw with wire end bent 180 and clamped
> between two washers.
>
>
>
> > > The volume pot wiper needs to be de-coupled from pin 2 by a series
> > > combination of a 4.7 kohm resistor and a cap of about 0.1 uF. This stops
> > > DC
> > > voltage from pin 2 appearing on the pot and helps with RF suppression.
>
> > >http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM386.pdf
>
> >http://fluxmonkey.com/electronoize/386amplifier.htm
> > modified by adding 25 ohm volume pot to the output end,
> > with the wiper connected to the speakers ( 2 x 3.3 ohm, series).
>
> > ** I'd call that an output attenuator - not a " volume pot ".
>
> So you control volume by controlling input?
>
> ** You after help is just like picking fights ?
>
> Cos you are being damn rude.
>
> .... Phil- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Or a bit weak with electronics and thankful for everyone's advice,
including yours. No reason to get your hackles up.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electric dog fence installation trouble
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3d11a1277a30303?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 5:50 pm
From: Jstein

Hi everyone,

I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:

http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q73BUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1303776943&sr=8-3

It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
her only in the front. The transmitter is mounted in the center of the
wall on the longside of the concrete foundation. One side of the loop
starts at the transmitter, drops to the floor, runs out of the sill to
the yard, completes the loop and enters the house through the sill on
the opposite side and runs back to the transmitter. The issue with
this is that because the antenna runs along floor of the basement of
the house, Sadie can get shocked while leaving and entering. It is
spotty at times but if she gets shocked when trying to leave the house
my fear is that she will never want to go outside again. To combat
this issue I decided to splice in a piece of copper stranded shielded
wire in the hopes that this would shield incoming and outgoing signal.
At the entry points into the basement, I spliced both the shielded
cable and the single strand. At the transmitter I stripped approx 6"
of the shielded cable (on both left and right sides) and pulled the
center solid wire through the braid. I then connected both of these to
building ground. Much to my surprise, the shielded cable behaved the
same as the single copper wire loop I ran outside; it acted like an
antenna setting of the collar. The transmitter has 2 terminals that
connect to a separate surge protector box via a twisted cable. The
surge protector box has 4 terminals total, two that connect to the
transmitter and two that connect to the loop. The transmitter has a
non grounded power supply that plugs into the surge protector which is
grounded. I called Innotek and described what I was trying to do and
the best solution they could give me was to essentially splice on an
additional 1000' and double back to the starting point. While I do not
want to incur the expense of the additional wire, I am also stubborn
and would like to know the theory behind this and why it will not
work. Innotek informed me that the fence operates at 8.192 kHz while
the remote control operates at 27 MHz(not sure if remote is
important). If anyone has any suggestions I would be most
appreciative. Our dog needs more outside time and I do not want to
constantly have to worry that she is going to run off. Thank you in
advance for your help.

Jesse

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 7:37 pm
From: "Barry"

"Jstein" <stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:7640729d-1c97-4b1d-a07f-2a1090c87a0a@u15g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
Hi everyone,

I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:

http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q73BUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1303776943&sr=8-3

================================================

It is the 8 kHz signal that flows through the wire, and it is the
magnetic field that is important. Twisting the wire causes the magnetic
field to cancel out. The shielded wire you tried does nothing to
attenuate the magnetic field; it only works on the electrostatic field.
Read their instructions again and see if you can come up with a
configuration where the wire is twisted where you need to let your dog
out of the house.

I have three dogs (a Finnish Spitz, a Siberian Husky, and a Malamute).
One digs under the fence and one climbs over the fence. In my situation,
I had to run one wire along the bottom of the fence, loop at the end, and
back along the top of the fence. The four and a half feet of separation
between the top and bottom wires allows the magnetic field to work
properly. Unfortunately all three dogs have long hair, and I had to
eventually go with a conventional electric fence.

One problem with "invisible" fences is that if the dog sees a squirrel,
it can run through the magnetic field quickly and only receive a short
shock. But when it tries to come home, it is walking rather than running
and the field prevents it from passing back into the yard. You need
something to delay the dog in the magnetic field long enough to get a
good shock. My chain link fence worked well for this, but the long hair
was a problem.

73, Barry

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Annoying Clock on Microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 6:14 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> >> I find it impossible to believe that /any/ microwave oven
> >> would use a crystal or resonator -- which costs money --
> >> when the power frequency is /right there/, and free.
>
> > They would use the same crystal as the microprocessor,
> > and run the clock in software.
>
> I was, of course, referring to a separate crystal (he said, retro-conning
> the issue).

William, I've never seen a microwave where the clock wasn't just
software in the MPU and I've scrapped a lot of them over the years.
Just one 20 cent crystal, and a MPU that cost less than a dollar in
production quantities.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Really "need to" replace older CATV cables? Would my cableprovider
really filter my line against my will?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31e43b6766887486?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 6:16 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> Even in a fiber-optic system, at some point the signal has to be converted
> to RF for your TV or set-top box.
>
> I don't know if there are systems that remain optical all the way up to the
> set-top box.

No, but Verion's FIOS is fiber right to the house.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 25 2011 6:17 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jreality wrote:
>
> One thing that I'm wondering....with regard to the technician claiming
> that the cable company would slap a filter on an individual residence,
> or group of them, if any ingress is being introduced into their system
> by those homes...it seems to me that would prove that they don't
> really have a fiber optic system as they claim. In other words, lets
> say it's really true that my cables are pulling in some background
> noise. If they're so darned concerned about ingress affecting their
> precious little cable network (ha!), then it's likely because they
> don't really have a fiber optic network from the pole and beyond as
> they imply/claim they have. I'm failing to understand how, if there
> really is fiber at the pole and beyond, then the ingress would survive
> the conversion from a CATV Coax signal to fiber optic signal.

The fiber may stop a mile or more from your house. All it takes is a
single damaged cable, or loose connector to cause ingression. I used to
design the systems.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
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== 2 of 2 ==
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