sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Chloe Handbags cheapsaler (http://www.brandtrade66.com) - (paypal
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae07fdc381683259?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:44 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Video cassette - topology question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 3:37 am
From: Bob Villa

On Apr 25, 6:02 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:

>
> Mr Cook, your writing is often unclear. You sometimes write as if English
> were not your native language. You need to learn to write more clearly.

As with many...it is perfectly clear in his head!

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 4:29 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Any twist in the tape is not normal (only in the old 8-track endless loop
audio/cart tapes).
Also, there shouldn't be any slack in the tape.. if slack exists, there are
transport problems and/or adjustments to compensate/minimize that condition.

Old VCRs had very sturdy (with real metal!) braking systems to stop reel
movement, and newer VCRs have had reel speed sensing circuits (for quite a
few years) that begin to slow the drive as the tape nears the ends.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ip3jik$htm$1@dont-email.me...
> If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange. Taking
> the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping both spools
> horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out. Then would you
> expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring tape laying back to
> normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape mean the scrunched tape
> has looped over the top of the spool flange before scrunching or stayed
> within the plane of the normal tape passage, ie the volume of space of
> width of the tape.
>
>

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 5:43 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> How do you explain a Klein bottle in text?

Only "continuous loop" tape cartridges use a closed loop of tape. The
infamous 8-track cartridge pulled the tape from the inside of the spool,
then fed it back to the outside. The tape has to be slightly twisted to fit
within a compact shell, but there is no net turning of the tape -- the top
edge of the tape remains on the top at all times.

I know of no tape system that used a Moebius strip.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 6:23 am
From: b

On Apr 26, 9:23 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Meat Plow <mhywa...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:pan.2011.04.25.21.02.49@emutt.macspoofer.lmao...
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 11:50:33 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > > If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> > > spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange.
> > > Taking the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping
> > > both spools horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out.
> > > Then would you expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring
> > > tape laying back to normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape
> > > mean the scrunched tape has looped over the top of the spool flange
> > > before scrunching or stayed within the plane of the normal tape passage,
> > > ie the volume of space of width of the tape.
>
> > Could you please translate that into common English?
>
> > --
> > Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse
>
> How do you explain a Klein bottle in text ?
> It is a topological question involving twists and turns. If when a tape
> runs at full tilt back and the other end hits the clear tape end stop,
> failing of rate sensor. In that jarring of the tape, if it loops over the
> spool and between the spool flange and the clear cover of the cassette,
> before tightening up and jamming between the reel of tape and the spool
> flange, will it lead to a twist in the tape .

Yes.
Just played about with an audio reel recorder, to check the scenario
you describe.
and if the tape loops over the reel, you must then loop it back again
(the way it came, as it were) - if you continue to pull tape off the
spool there is a twist.
HTH
B.

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 7:17 am
From: "N_Cook"

b <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:aa16fac4-8ecc-4d72-8061-0f6de5b0bbcf@p16g2000vbi.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 26, 9:23 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Meat Plow <mhywa...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:pan.2011.04.25.21.02.49@emutt.macspoofer.lmao...
>
>
>
> > On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 11:50:33 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > > If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside
the
> > > spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange.
> > > Taking the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping
> > > both spools horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out.
> > > Then would you expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring
> > > tape laying back to normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape
> > > mean the scrunched tape has looped over the top of the spool flange
> > > before scrunching or stayed within the plane of the normal tape
passage,
> > > ie the volume of space of width of the tape.
>
> > Could you please translate that into common English?
>
> > --
> > Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse
>
> How do you explain a Klein bottle in text ?
> It is a topological question involving twists and turns. If when a tape
> runs at full tilt back and the other end hits the clear tape end stop,
> failing of rate sensor. In that jarring of the tape, if it loops over the
> spool and between the spool flange and the clear cover of the cassette,
> before tightening up and jamming between the reel of tape and the spool
> flange, will it lead to a twist in the tape .

&&&&&

That was what I was trying to get an opinion on. I was aware that pulling
wire axially off the end disc of a cable drum introduced a twist in the wire
but could not decide , thinking about it for a cassette . Whether the same
applied to slipping one turn off a VCR spool by it passing over the top of
the spool in the gap between spool and transparent window on the cassette
cover, then slipping back into the volume where the tape should be, but
mangled and pulled in.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:39 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 08:23:00 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2011.04.25.21.02.49@emutt.macspoofer.lmao...
>> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 11:50:33 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside
>> > the spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool
>> > flange. Taking the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool.
>> > Keeping both spools horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by
>> > pulling out. Then would you expect to have to flip one spool , one
>> > turn, to bring tape laying back to normal? Would that removal of a
>> > twist in the tape mean the scrunched tape has looped over the top of
>> > the spool flange before scrunching or stayed within the plane of the
>> > normal tape passage, ie the volume of space of width of the tape.
>>
>> Could you please translate that into common English?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse
>
> How do you explain a Klein bottle in text ?
> It is a topological question involving twists and turns. If when a tape
> runs at full tilt back and the other end hits the clear tape end stop,
> failing of rate sensor. In that jarring of the tape, if it loops over
> the spool and between the spool flange and the clear cover of the
> cassette, before tightening up and jamming between the reel of tape and
> the spool flange, will it lead to a twist in the tape .

Ok that makes more sense. What failure mode are you trying to explain?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 6:33 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> I'm not sure I actually understand your question. However...
>
> Most (if not all) VCR tapes, regardless of format, are "B wind" -- the oxide
> faces "out".
>
> Most analog audio reel-to-reel formats are "A wind" -- the oxide faces "in".
> Most analog audio cartridge and cassette formats are "B wind".

I never knew there was a name for this oxide in or out. I recall some
horrible hong kong or taiwanese audio cassettes that were wound the wrong
way- the oxide was on the wrong side.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Challenge of Repairing vs Trashing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3cd5c17c8ebe1b1c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 4:01 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

There are only a few components on the inverter-type board for the Nite-Ize
upgrade kits, which extend the battery life of 2 alkaline AA cells to about
20 hours, driving 3 high brightness (not high power) white LEDs.
The circuit board is only about 15mm in diameter, smaller than a dime/US 10
cent piece, populated with components on both sides.

http://www.niteize.com/collections/flashlights/products/led-upgrade-kits

I've found these to be very reliable and worthwhile, although they don't
"throw" much light.. which is common with many LED devices without
exceptionally good reflectors and/or lenses.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:sibtp.35070$KZ7.25040@newsfe08.ams2...
>
>
> That would be my thoughts, too. These flashlights are often not quite as
> simple as the other poster seems to believe, and it's common to have an
> inverter chip built in which, in conjunction with a small external choke,
> produces the required voltage at a constant current, to run the LED(s)
> until the battery or single cell has reached way below where it would
> normally power anything, let alone one or more white LEDs. There are many
> examples of how this all works on the 'net. A couple of years ago, Elektor
> magazine gave away a little board with one of these ICs and a choke on it,
> free on the front of every copy, for readers to play with. I still have
> mine connected to a white LED set in the end of an old ball pen tube to
> use as a light 'probe' when looking for problems deep in CD or tape
> mechanisms where the normal bench light won't reach. It runs from a single
> NiCd cell and remains at full brightness until the cell just falls over
> and dies.
>
> Just an additional thought. The problem could also be the LED itself. I
> have seen them go intermittent, and if this one is being pulse driven from
> an IC, then it might well be that a faulty LED would flicker as the chip
> tries to keep it supplied with a constant pulse current.
>
> Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 4:10 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I'd like to know of a source for those little green/yellow/red LED charge
indicators or another compact product that would work well with rechargeable
battery packs of 6 to 12V with a push-to-test button.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ip3jtr$isb$1@dont-email.me...
>
> I like the inadvertent buit-in charge meter of multi-LED torch lamps where
> they are all in parallel (plus a bit of pcb trace drop). You can tell the
> state of battery charge as one or more fail to illuminate, more "failing"
> with less charge/voltage .
>
>

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 7:17 am
From: Robert Macy

On Apr 26, 4:01 am, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> There are only a few components on the inverter-type board for the Nite-Ize
> upgrade kits, which extend the battery life of 2 alkaline AA cells to about
> 20 hours, driving 3 high brightness (not high power) white LEDs.
> The circuit board is only about 15mm in diameter, smaller than a dime/US 10
> cent piece, populated with components on both sides.
>
> http://www.niteize.com/collections/flashlights/products/led-upgrade-kits
>
> I've found these to be very reliable and worthwhile, although they don't
> "throw" much light.. which is common with many LED devices without
> exceptionally good reflectors and/or lenses.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>
> news:sibtp.35070$KZ7.25040@newsfe08.ams2...
>
>
>
>
>
> > That would be my thoughts, too. These flashlights are often not quite as
> > simple as the other poster seems to believe, and it's common to have an
> > inverter chip built in which, in conjunction with a small external choke,
> > produces the required voltage at a constant current, to run the LED(s)
> > until the battery or single cell has reached way below where it would
> > normally power anything, let alone one or more white LEDs. There are many
> > examples of how this all works on the 'net. A couple of years ago, Elektor
> > magazine gave away a little board with one of these ICs and a choke on it,
> > free on the front of every copy, for readers to play with. I still have
> > mine connected to a white LED set in the end of an old ball pen tube to
> > use as a light 'probe' when looking for problems deep in CD or tape
> > mechanisms where the normal bench light won't reach. It runs from a single
> > NiCd cell and remains at full brightness until the cell just falls over
> > and dies.
>
> > Just an additional thought. The problem could also be the LED itself. I
> > have seen them go intermittent, and if this one is being pulse driven from
> > an IC, then it might well be that a faulty LED would flicker as the chip
> > tries to keep it supplied with a constant pulse current.
>
> > Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Interesting. This torch is a 'fat' mag-like lite and has six LED's
with the small 'dime' size PCB and a 3 battery pack plastic
assembly.

Closer examination shows that 3 LED's stay lit, but the others are
OFF, except one or two [of the three on one side] flicker as though
trying to come ON. Flicker rate is more like ON for 20 OFF for 80.
Eye retention gives the impression that the LED(s) is on longer.

Earlier comments about connection are interesting in that unscrewing
the front end with the LED assembly - the LED's pretty much stay lit.
BUT! even the slightest unscrewing the tail end [where switch is
located] causes LED's to either go out or substantially change flicker
patterns.

Regards,

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:13 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

There are some very poorly made LED flashlights around, and some of them are
anything but reliable.

I generally take most things apart to see the (lack of) quality of
work/production methods.
One package of extremely low cost 3-AAA cell F-Ls were made to very low
quality standards.. the LED leads were just twisted together to form the (+)
battery contact, and the (-) leads-to-case were just jammed between the
plastic "reflector" and case.
Apparently, these were all hand assembled, and had no soldered connections
in them.

In general, the heavier the case and the more machining that's required to
make the case parts, the better the quality of production, as far as I've
seen.

Some of the better quality 1W single LED models ($4-8) that I use regularly
have been very reliable.

While I have them apart, I'll apply a little DeoxIT paste to contacts, seals
and threads.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Robert Macy" <macy@california.com> wrote in message
news:a8f73527-5ba6-41af-a738-f1c192b5e5cc@hd10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...

Interesting. This torch is a 'fat' mag-like lite and has six LED's
with the small 'dime' size PCB and a 3 battery pack plastic
assembly.

Regards,

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SONY TA-V3 amp schematic?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/018c68177368d81f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 4:59 am
From: b

http://audioidiots.com/merk.apparaat.php?apparaatID=331" Here' s a
picture of the unit. 1984 vintage.

Anyone have a service manual/schematic kicking about?
regards,
B.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TSN-143 controller card / PLC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/598cf6fd63f85e18?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 8:01 am
From: Sonnich Jensen

Hi all

I am talking about this card:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Mvc-307x.jpg

It is a PLC.
Main question: does anyone have any documentation on the card?
Schematic?

I don't even know where to post for this, searching the does not
result in much

It falls out now and then, and there is by some reason always
communication problems with the card when it has been out over night
(2 shifts, then wait 8 hr and there are problems, and for sure Monday
mornings).
I am wondering whether the RESET could be a problem, hence a capacitor
or the DC/DC converter in picture 308. The connector next to it is the
connection to the IO cards.

Pictures
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Mvc-308x.jpg
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Mvc-312x.jpg
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Mvc-348x2.jpg
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Mvc-354x.jpg

As you can see, it is an old AT board running on windows 3.11. When
starting, it downloads code into the card from DOS, then starts
windows which runs an application connecting to the card. As I said,
that fails.
Something must work, as the code gets downloaded, ignoring the error
and it actually works. So, the reset - I am not sure.
However, sometimes the control on falls out, which could be blamed on
the card. I do not have a replacement and the price is horrible.

Any ideas?

WBR
Sonnich

==============================================================================
TOPIC: A specific PCB bad practise, term for it ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8689adb4b80bfe29?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 10:05 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <18j9r6lhguj9eetm312dp0694dacjqhc93@4ax.com>,
who where <noone@home.net> wrote:

> On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:24:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> >Where holes are drilled for thru-board components but of diameter far too
> >big , thru-hole plated , but no eyelet/inserts used to fill the gap. So
> >1N4001 size leads in holes twice their diameter and 1N4148 in holes twice
> >their diameter. So not a case of only one drill size for all. So in area
> >terms about 1 to 4 ratio of lead to solder. Bad enough practise with proper
> >solder but with PbF, ring cracks starting all over.
> >Is it to avoid mutiny by the by-hand board populators ?
>
> It was always my understanding that the "oversized" PTH was a
> deliberate choice. If significant current needs to pass to both
> planes, a (proper, of course, not RoHS) solder plug enhances the
> through-plating's capability.

Um, I'm not an EE, but I thought the leg of the component helped to
carry current from one side of the board to the other.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 6:05 pm
From: who where

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 10:05:39 -0700, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>In article <18j9r6lhguj9eetm312dp0694dacjqhc93@4ax.com>,
> who where <noone@home.net> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:24:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Where holes are drilled for thru-board components but of diameter far too
>> >big , thru-hole plated , but no eyelet/inserts used to fill the gap. So
>> >1N4001 size leads in holes twice their diameter and 1N4148 in holes twice
>> >their diameter. So not a case of only one drill size for all. So in area
>> >terms about 1 to 4 ratio of lead to solder. Bad enough practise with proper
>> >solder but with PbF, ring cracks starting all over.
>> >Is it to avoid mutiny by the by-hand board populators ?
>>
>> It was always my understanding that the "oversized" PTH was a
>> deliberate choice. If significant current needs to pass to both
>> planes, a (proper, of course, not RoHS) solder plug enhances the
>> through-plating's capability.
>
>Um, I'm not an EE, but I thought the leg of the component helped to
>carry current from one side of the board to the other.

It does (doh!) but obviously the hole plating and the solder fill also
contribute to the overall conduction.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 6:36 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

who where wrote:
> On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:24:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>> Where holes are drilled for thru-board components but of diameter far too
>> big , thru-hole plated , but no eyelet/inserts used to fill the gap. So
>> 1N4001 size leads in holes twice their diameter and 1N4148 in holes twice
>> their diameter. So not a case of only one drill size for all. So in area
>> terms about 1 to 4 ratio of lead to solder. Bad enough practise with proper
>> solder but with PbF, ring cracks starting all over.
>> Is it to avoid mutiny by the by-hand board populators ?
>
> It was always my understanding that the "oversized" PTH was a
> deliberate choice. If significant current needs to pass to both
> planes, a (proper, of course, not RoHS) solder plug enhances the
> through-plating's capability.

The blob of solder has much less resistance than the
very thin copper surrounding the hole.
Mass counts here, and the copper is at a big disadvantage there.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:13 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Apr 25, 9:12 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Meat Plow wrote:
>
> > On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> > > Meat Plow wrote:
>
> > >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> > >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
> > >> > problems
> > >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
>
> > >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in the
> > >> 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.
>
> > > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair most
> > > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes. Some
> > > took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR series
> > > manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz IFs,
> > > which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
>
> > Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
> > tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature. Tweaking
> > the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage from start to
> > finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the vehicle. I'm
> > sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the attic. Used to
> > have one on my bench for music.
>
> I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
> south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon.
Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I
noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose
so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full
alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in
the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail
between his legs.....Lenny

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:55 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>
>> > Meat Plow wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
>> >> > problems
>> >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
>> >>
>> >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back in
>> >> the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD later on.
>> >
>> >
>> > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
>> > most
>> > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
>> > Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams AR
>> > series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or 455 KHz
>> > IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
>>
>> Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly bad
>> tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
>> Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
>> from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in the
>> vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in the
>> attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.
>
>
> I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
> south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(

Doesn't that piss you off.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 1:01 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:13:25 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

> On Apr 25, 9:12 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>> Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> > On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>
>> > > Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> > >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>
>> > >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent
>> > >> > image problems
>> > >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
>>
>> > >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
>> > >> in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
>> > >> later on.
>>
>> > > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
>> > > most
>> > > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
>> > > Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
>> > > AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
>> > > 455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
>>
>> > Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
>> > bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
>> > Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
>> > from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
>> > the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
>> > the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.
>>
>> I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
>> south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(
>>
>> --
>> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because
>> it's Teflon coated.
>
> I think I've run into "flaming" stupid before. That would melt teflon.
> Many years ago a guy handed me a short wave radio to repair adding, "I
> noticed that all the screws in those "can things" and holes were loose
> so I tightened them all for you". After we discussed what a full
> alignment, in addition to whatever repair he was bringing it in for in
> the first place would cost, he left with his radio and his tail between
> his legs.....Lenny

I've run into 'tweakers' before busting the slugs in the cans not knowing
their ass from a hole in the ground about what they were doing. I fixed
up a couple, removing the busted slugs, chipping them out in pieces that
took hours. And cost them dearly. Those were for classic autos that the
owner wanted to keep original, and where the cost of replacing busted
slugs and alignment was cheaper than finding a replacement.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Made in USA, was Re: Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink
compound?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:53 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 19:26:02 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:28:22 -0400, "Barry" <none@nospam.org> wrote:
>
>>If you go to a gardening supply and buy genuine Holland tulip bulbs, you
>>will likely get bulbs grown in Washington state. These bulbs are
>>shipped to the Netherlands and packaged. This allows them to be called
>>"imported from Holland."
>
> When I was in Hawaii, the local Macadamia nuts were shipped to Los
> Angeles, packaged, and shipped back for sales to the tourists.
>
> Made in USA:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Made_in_USA> and from the FTC point of
> view, which is a confusing mess:
> <http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus03-complying-made-usa-standard>
> <http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/35821593/ns/business-us_business/>
>
>>Most pharmaceutical intermediates are today made in India or China, and
>>many drugs are totally made there and shipped to U.S. manufacturers who
>>compound the drugs with fillers and then stamp out the pills. They then
>>qualify as U.S. made pills.
>
> It's possible to buy direct for India or China via various internet
> vendors and spammers. The problem is that most of these don't contain
> any of the advertised drugs. Great for a placebo, but not much else.

Dr. Reddy is a very popular Indian drug manufacturer. They make a lot of
USA store brand OTC, Ibuprofen for one. I've purchased antibiotics back
in 2007 from a legitimate online distributer and they were sealed boxes
in blister packs, pretty hard to counterfeit. And they worked. At the
time I was in between having prescription insurance coverage for a couple
months and I saved $150 bucks purchasing them from this internet company
who is still in business. The ones to watch out for are the Russian pill
spammers (Canadian Pharmacy) offering dick drugs and narcotics. The
company I dealt with offered neither. I researched the company and made
sure they were actually based in Canada. Also used Paypal. The drugs were
shipped directly from India.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Problem with Atmel micro in a Kaon TV decoder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5fa629ff20dbe40?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 12:57 pm
From: Jeroni Paul

Before going further with messing the clock I rechecked my previous
measurements and tests and did some more tests to try to understand
how the Atmel behaves or should behave. I concluded it is supposed to
work this way: at turn on within the first second the Atmel receives
some bursts of data from the video decoder, then it waits indefinitely
while the main unit turns on (that when starts fine) and once up and
running the main unit starts sending bursts regularly. Upon reception
of the first regular burst the Atmel sets a 9 second time-out where if
nothing is received it reboots as it assumes the main unit is stuck.

The problem is it is starting that 9 second time-out right from the
beginning. At first I was thinking the bursts received within the
first second were triggering the start of time-out but I have found
sometimes after receiving these bursts it will still wait
indefinitely. I've compared good and failed start-ups on the digital
analyzer and the bursts received within the first second are
identical, so they can't be the cause. There is one thing I think may
be the culprit. At the very beginning when the main supply turns on
the digital analyzer shows some random oscillations that I already had
seen but I could not see a relation between them and the reboots since
sometimes it was a clean transition and rebooted and viceversa and I
belived the Atmel had to be ignoring that. Now I belive it is
intepreting that as regular bursts as if the main unit was already up
and running and starts the 9 second time-out.

These oscillations are not real but a result of a straight ramp from 0
to 3.3V lasting 10ms as seen on the scope. When the Atmel activates
the main supply the 3.3V and 5V outputs raise with that ramp,
propagates through buffer LCX244 and ends in the Atmel data input, to
me seems a poor design. The AT89S52 datasheet does not mention schmitt-
trigger inputs, so if they are normal inputs it is likely it sees
random oscillations.

I was testing to momentarily short data input to eliminate the ramp
and it seems to work but I may be killing the first bursts of data
too, so I would not claim victory until I implement a circuit to kill
that ramp and allow the bursts. I could insert a schmitt-trigger
buffer in the data input or I could place a circuit to keep the data
input shorted to ground for the first 100ms after the supply turns on.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 3:53 pm
From: Rich Webb

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 12:57:18 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul
<JERONI.PAUL@terra.es> wrote:

>Before going further with messing the clock I rechecked my previous
>measurements and tests and did some more tests to try to understand
>how the Atmel behaves or should behave. I concluded it is supposed to
>work this way: at turn on within the first second the Atmel receives
>some bursts of data from the video decoder, then it waits indefinitely
>while the main unit turns on (that when starts fine) and once up and
>running the main unit starts sending bursts regularly. Upon reception
>of the first regular burst the Atmel sets a 9 second time-out where if
>nothing is received it reboots as it assumes the main unit is stuck.
>
>The problem is it is starting that 9 second time-out right from the
>beginning. At first I was thinking the bursts received within the
>first second were triggering the start of time-out but I have found
>sometimes after receiving these bursts it will still wait
>indefinitely. I've compared good and failed start-ups on the digital
>analyzer and the bursts received within the first second are
>identical, so they can't be the cause. There is one thing I think may
>be the culprit. At the very beginning when the main supply turns on
>the digital analyzer shows some random oscillations that I already had
>seen but I could not see a relation between them and the reboots since
>sometimes it was a clean transition and rebooted and viceversa and I
>belived the Atmel had to be ignoring that. Now I belive it is
>intepreting that as regular bursts as if the main unit was already up
>and running and starts the 9 second time-out.
>
>These oscillations are not real but a result of a straight ramp from 0
>to 3.3V lasting 10ms as seen on the scope. When the Atmel activates
>the main supply the 3.3V and 5V outputs raise with that ramp,
>propagates through buffer LCX244 and ends in the Atmel data input, to
>me seems a poor design. The AT89S52 datasheet does not mention schmitt-
>trigger inputs, so if they are normal inputs it is likely it sees
>random oscillations.
>
>I was testing to momentarily short data input to eliminate the ramp
>and it seems to work but I may be killing the first bursts of data
>too, so I would not claim victory until I implement a circuit to kill
>that ramp and allow the bursts. I could insert a schmitt-trigger
>buffer in the data input or I could place a circuit to keep the data
>input shorted to ground for the first 100ms after the supply turns on.

Yes, slowly rising supplies can be a killer.

Holding /OE of the LCX244 might do the trick. The old standby RC setup
would probably work, although one of the many supervisory chips would be
more robust.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electric dog fence installation trouble
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3d11a1277a30303?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 3:45 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 25, 5:50 pm, Jstein <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
> electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q...
>
> It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
> atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
> with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
> would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
> her only in the front.

Realizing that no "invisible" electric fence will prevent aggressive
stray dogs from attacking Sadie, the best solution is to build a chain
link or picket fence around your front yard.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lead free solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 7:04 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> "Adrian Tuddenham"
>
>>> Of course. The increased number of failures due solely to solder
>>> joints has kept many a service department busy. Reworking with
>>> "decent" solder is the simplest treatment.
>>
>> Not in Europe it isn't. There are heavy fines for doing that.
>
>
> ** The fines may exist in theory, but can you show if anyone has been fined
> for using the wrong solder for repairs ?
>
> There are many obvious, simple defences to such a charge and almost no way
> to get caught.
>
> Get real.
>
>
> ..... Phil

Europeans are the biggest whining sissies on the planet. There's simply no
other way to put it.

I'm in the US, we can do whatever we want with lead.

==============================================================================

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