sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 12 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
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hours-online.com/.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ecfbd039de0f473a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Apr 26 2011 10:57 pm
From: jialiu

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lead free solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 3:46 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:ip7tj0$347$3@reader1.panix.com...
> Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>>
>> "Adrian Tuddenham"
>>
>>>> Of course. The increased number of failures due solely to solder
>>>> joints has kept many a service department busy. Reworking with
>>>> "decent" solder is the simplest treatment.
>>>
>>> Not in Europe it isn't. There are heavy fines for doing that.
>>
>>
>> ** The fines may exist in theory, but can you show if anyone has been
>> fined
>> for using the wrong solder for repairs ?
>>
>> There are many obvious, simple defences to such a charge and almost no
>> way
>> to get caught.
>>
>> Get real.
>>
>>
>> ..... Phil
>
> Europeans are the biggest whining sissies on the planet. There's simply no
> other way to put it.
>
> I'm in the US, we can do whatever we want with lead.
>
>

Please don't lump the British with the "Europeans". We aren't Europeans in
any way other than an enforced political condition. We never have been and
never will be, and if a lot of people over here had their way, we would also
get out of the political tie-ups to allow us to govern ourselves and make
our own laws again, without interference from Brussels

Arfa

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 4:18 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Arfa Daily"
>
> Please don't lump the British with the "Europeans". We aren't Europeans in
> any way other than an enforced political condition. We never have been and
> never will be, and if a lot of people over here had their way, we would
> also get out of the political tie-ups to allow us to govern ourselves and
> make our own laws again, without interference from Brussels
>

** Do you recall the episode of " Yes Minister " where the topic was the
impending EU directive re the " Euro Sausage".

Folk generally mistake that show for a comedy, when it was clearly a
instructive documentary.

.... Phil

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 6:07 am
From: "Ian Field"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:91qcbdF3c8U1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Arfa Daily"
>>
>> Please don't lump the British with the "Europeans". We aren't Europeans
>> in any way other than an enforced political condition. We never have been
>> and never will be, and if a lot of people over here had their way, we
>> would also get out of the political tie-ups to allow us to govern
>> ourselves and make our own laws again, without interference from Brussels
>>
>
>
> ** Do you recall the episode of " Yes Minister " where the topic was the
> impending EU directive re the " Euro Sausage".
>
> Folk generally mistake that show for a comedy, when it was clearly a
> instructive documentary.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mackie SR1530 schematic?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/834c336c195faf45?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 4:07 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

Hi,

looking for a Mackie SR1530 schematic (actually SR1530z, whatever the z
means).

This one has no bass drive - looks like the signal path to the bass amp is
broken so not particularly easy to trace.

Cheers,

Gareth.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 5:45 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:07:06 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
<sound.service@btconnect.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>looking for a Mackie SR1530 schematic (actually SR1530z, whatever the z
>means).

This looks like the service manual:
http://elektrotanya.com/mackie_sr1530_active_speaker.rar/download.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 5:56 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:cu3gr6pc0qifq5qhvhnfm3ej012ds20021@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 12:07:06 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
> <sound.service@btconnect.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>looking for a Mackie SR1530 schematic (actually SR1530z, whatever the z
>>means).
>
> This looks like the service manual:
> http://elektrotanya.com/mackie_sr1530_active_speaker.rar/download.html
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Thanks Franc, I tried that a few times yesterday but couldn't get it to
actually download.

I've just found the fault, anyway. The 3 way crossover circuits are on a
daughter board, which had a bad connection. Am just about to reassemble the
unit and test.

Cheers,

Gareth.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Found: E book stash.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e957cecc59313da7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 5:17 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:03:33 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/downloads/

Thanks for that info.

BTW, can anyone gain access to the manuals?
http://www.oldradios.co.nz/data/manuals.htm

I just see an empty "NewFolder".

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 5:48 am
From: Boris Mohar

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:17:29 +1000, Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net>
wrote:

>On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:03:33 +0100, "Ian Field"
><gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/downloads/
>
>Thanks for that info.
>
>BTW, can anyone gain access to the manuals?
>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/data/manuals.htm
>
>I just see an empty "NewFolder".
>
>- Franc Zabkar

From that page:

" The 'Classics' Schematic & Manual Repository
This facility is current OFFLINE"

--
Boris

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 10:59 am
From: John Robertson

Boris Mohar wrote:
> On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:17:29 +1000, Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net>
> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:03:33 +0100, "Ian Field"
>> <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>>
>>> http://www.oldradios.co.nz/downloads/
>> Thanks for that info.
>>
>> BTW, can anyone gain access to the manuals?
>> http://www.oldradios.co.nz/data/manuals.htm
>>
>> I just see an empty "NewFolder".
>>
>> - Franc Zabkar
>
> From that page:
>
> " The 'Classics' Schematic & Manual Repository
> This facility is current OFFLINE"
>
> --
> Boris

Perhaps if you offer to donate a few $$ he will send you the one you need...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 12:36 pm
From: Baron

Franc Zabkar Inscribed thus:

> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:03:33 +0100, "Ian Field"
> <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/downloads/
>
> Thanks for that info.
>
> BTW, can anyone gain access to the manuals?
> http://www.oldradios.co.nz/data/manuals.htm
>
> I just see an empty "NewFolder".
>
> - Franc Zabkar

Yes ! That is all I see here. I've tried it with both Linux and
Winblows...

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Triple ganged pots
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0db7c3a79a7550cb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 5:49 am
From: "caius"

Does anyone know a source for triple ganged pots?I need some 1kOhm of these.
Thanks

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 9:00 am
From: news@jecarter.us

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:49:53 +0200, "caius" <briccus@yahoo.it> wrote:

>Does anyone know a source for triple ganged pots?I need some 1kOhm of these.
>Thanks
>

digikey.com has dual and quad 10K pots, but no mention of triples of
any value.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=ganged+pot

John

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 2:04 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 27, 5:49 am, "caius" <bric...@yahoo.it> wrote:
> Does anyone know a source for triple ganged pots?I need some 1kOhm of these.
> Thanks

You could start at potentiometers.com. I see they have KKK triple gang
pots, as well as modular pots that go eight deep.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electric dog fence installation trouble
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3d11a1277a30303?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 6:40 am
From: Jstein

On Apr 26, 6:45 pm, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Apr 25, 5:50 pm, Jstein <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi everyone,
>
> > I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
> > electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:
>
> >http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q...
>
> > It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
> > atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
> > with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
> > would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
> > her only in the front.
>
> Realizing that no "invisible" electric fence will prevent aggressive
> stray dogs from attacking Sadie, the best solution is to build a chain
> link or picket fence around your front yard.

With all due respect, this does not answer my question. That aside, I
have never encountered overly aggressive dogs in my neighborhood, nor
is she left alone for long periods of time.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 7:25 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 27, 6:40 am, Jstein <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Apr 26, 6:45 pm, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Apr 25, 5:50 pm, Jstein <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > Hi everyone,
>
> > > I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
> > > electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:
>
> > >http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q...
>
> > > It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
> > > atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
> > > with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
> > > would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
> > > her only in the front.
>
> > Realizing that no "invisible" electric fence will prevent aggressive
> > stray dogs from attacking Sadie, the best solution is to build a chain
> > link or picket fence around your front yard.
>
> With all due respect, this does not answer my question. That aside, I
> have never encountered overly aggressive dogs in my neighborhood, nor
> is she left alone for long periods of time.

Barry had already pointed out another pitfall: that if she ignored the
shock to chase, say, a squirrel, she'd not want to return. Did you
skip over the part where he had a physical fence as well as the wire?

But she's only a dog, and getting another one is easy enough, I
suppose. And you have some $300 invested in the underground wire
system that you'd hate to waste. I understand.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 10:59 am
From: W8CCW

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:50:55 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
<stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi everyone,
>
>I would like to ask for your help with a problem I�m having with my
>electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek�s IUC 5100:
>
>http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q73BUO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1303776943&sr=8-3
>
>It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
>atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
>with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
>would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
>her only in the front. The transmitter is mounted in the center of the
>wall on the longside of the concrete foundation. One side of the loop
>starts at the transmitter, drops to the floor, runs out of the sill to
>the yard, completes the loop and enters the house through the sill on
>the opposite side and runs back to the transmitter. The issue with
>this is that because the antenna runs along floor of the basement of
>the house, Sadie can get shocked while leaving and entering. It is
>spotty at times but if she gets shocked when trying to leave the house
>my fear is that she will never want to go outside again. To combat
>this issue I decided to splice in a piece of copper stranded shielded
>wire in the hopes that this would shield incoming and outgoing signal.
>At the entry points into the basement, I spliced both the shielded
>cable and the single strand. At the transmitter I stripped approx 6�
>of the shielded cable (on both left and right sides) and pulled the
>center solid wire through the braid. I then connected both of these to
>building ground. Much to my surprise, the shielded cable behaved the
>same as the single copper wire loop I ran outside; it acted like an
>antenna setting of the collar. The transmitter has 2 terminals that
>connect to a separate surge protector box via a twisted cable. The
>surge protector box has 4 terminals total, two that connect to the
>transmitter and two that connect to the loop. The transmitter has a
>non grounded power supply that plugs into the surge protector which is
>grounded. I called Innotek and described what I was trying to do and
>the best solution they could give me was to essentially splice on an
>additional 1000� and double back to the starting point. While I do not
>want to incur the expense of the additional wire, I am also stubborn
>and would like to know the theory behind this and why it will not
>work. Innotek informed me that the fence operates at 8.192 kHz while
>the remote control operates at 27 MHz(not sure if remote is
>important). If anyone has any suggestions I would be most
>appreciative. Our dog needs more outside time and I do not want to
>constantly have to worry that she is going to run off. Thank you in
>advance for your help.
>
>Jesse

I turn the system off for Shadow to cross the boundry.

John Ferrell

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Annoying Clock on Microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 6:50 am
From: KR

On Apr 25, 9:05 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> >> I find it impossible to believe that /any/ microwave oven
> >> would use a crystal or resonator -- which costs money --
> >> when the power frequency is /right there/, and free.
> > They would use the same crystal as the microprocessor,
> > and run the clock in software.
>
> I was, of course, referring to a separate crystal (he said, retro-conning
> the issue).

It is possible to have a second crystal, as I have seen a custom IC
that included an RTC inside have its own separate 3.579mhz
crystal in addition to the crystal for the CPU function. Both
connected to the same IC on separate pins.
In this case though, this second crystal would be just for the RTC
function,
as the low speed would save power, and also the rest of the chip would
likely be shut down also to save power hence no software clock.
This was an early 1990s design

As microwaves don't have a RTC in them (that I have seen) and simply
reset to 12:00 or whatever after a power failure,
there is no need for the more sophisticated system described above.

I agree with Michael A Terrell,

There wouldn't be a separate crystal for the clock in a modern
microwave,
The "clock" and processor would be incorporated into a single chip,
and the timekeeping would
be surely a software function. The chip would very likely have a
single crystal
or resonator.

In my original comment, I suggested looking for a trimmer cap
across the crystal and trimming it to fine adjust the clock if the
inaccuracy is a real issue for the OP .

You also can check the value of the crystal, there is also a very very
remote possibility that there was the wrong value, but very close
installed at the factory - something like a 3.562 MHZ instead of a
3.579545 MHZ
for example, but without sitting and working out the inaccuracy this
would cause, this might not be right and might make too big a
difference to be the problem.

It will not hurt the rest of the system to run a tiny fraction faster/
slower.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Porcelain thermally conductive insulators ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b69decd6bfa03d8b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 9:40 am
From: josephkk

On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:15:25 +0100, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote:

>josephkk Inscribed thus:
>
>> On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 17:36:42 +0100, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>N_Cook Inscribed thus:
>>>
>>>> 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
>>>
>>>I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide !
>>><http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
>>>
>>>> Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
>>>> pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
>>>> Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers while
>>>> trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good thermal
>>>> insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as not cutting
>>>> into the material ?
>>>
>>>The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
>>
>> BeO is very expensive. I would be very surprised to find any in such
>> application.
>
>I wonder how much 12 dozen TO3 BeO insulators would be worth ?

The last time i saw a price they were over US $1 each, but that was over
30 years ago and for military use. Between the now rabid regulation and
the expected cost i would be rather surprised to find them in commercial
instrument amplifiers. Of course with Chinese manufacture such bets may
be knocked into a cocked hat.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 1:15 pm
From: Baron

josephkk Inscribed thus:

> On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:15:25 +0100, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net>
> wrote:
>
>>josephkk Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> On Mon, 18 Apr 2011 17:36:42 +0100, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>N_Cook Inscribed thus:
>>>>
>>>>> 1.8mm slabs of porcelain under TO220 devices.
>>>>
>>>>I would check that ! Its more likely that they are Beryllium_oxide
>>>>! <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_oxide>
>>>>
>>>>> Tried grinding a clearance notch on the side of one
>>>>> pad but got nowhere as ceramic.
>>>>> Not only that but I had no trouble holding the slab in fingers
>>>>> while trying to grind a slot, it was barely getting warm - good
>>>>> thermal insulator or small grinding wheel not generating heat as
>>>>> not cutting into the material ?
>>>>
>>>>The dust from grinding or abrading Beryllium_oxide is highly toxic !
>>>
>>> BeO is very expensive. I would be very surprised to find any in
>>> such application.
>>
>>I wonder how much 12 dozen TO3 BeO insulators would be worth ?
>
> The last time i saw a price they were over US $1 each, but that was
> over 30 years ago and for military use. Between the now rabid
> regulation and the expected cost i would be rather surprised to find
> them in commercial instrument amplifiers. Of course with Chinese
> manufacture such bets may be knocked into a cocked hat.

You mentioned "military use", the original packing had "Marconi" on the
label ! I've had them for more than 20 years. They came as part of an
auction lot. If I recall, a subcontracting company that went bust when
Marconi was taken over.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SONY TA-V3 amp schematic?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/018c68177368d81f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 9:48 am
From: "David Farber"

b wrote:
> http://audioidiots.com/merk.apparaat.php?apparaatID=331" Here' s a
> picture of the unit. 1984 vintage.
>
> Anyone have a service manual/schematic kicking about?
> regards,
> B.

I probably have it somewhere. Is there any specific question that you have?

David Farber
Los Osos, CA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where's best source for laptop battery?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e22e3559f49b976b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 9:54 am
From: josephkk

On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 09:20:39 -0700 (PDT), chrisj.doran@proemail.co.uk
wrote:

>On Apr 21, 5:03 pm, Robert Macy <m...@california.com> wrote:
>> On Apr 21, 3:35 am, Bob Villa <pheeh.z...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > On Apr 20, 10:08 pm, Robert Macy <m...@california.com> wrote:
>>
>> > > Where is the best source for a laptop battery?
>>
>> > > You've been through the battles and know where to get a laptop battery
>> > > [inside US]
>> > > 10.8V 3600mAH
>> > > 02k6627
>> > > for the IBM Thinkpad
>>
>> > Model searchhttp://www.meritline.com/s-5483-laptop-Battery-for-ibm.aspx
>>
>> Thank you for the URLs
>>
>> Cost at $51.99 but is for the more storage version of 4400mAH [not
>> original 3600mAH]
>> plus free standard shipping, so cost is comparable.
>>
>> Easy website to navigate, easy website to order from
>>
>> Their return policy is austere, but makes sense if they;re running on
>> low margins.
>>
>> will let you know of exeperience
>>
>> Regards,
>
>Be aware that there is an unproven suspicion that the 4400mAH
>batteries may be the source of "blink of death" failures. The fear is
>that they take too much current out of the charging circuitry and blow
>a chip, fuse, or resistor, which seem to be found with this fault.
>
>What is other people's experience with these enhanced storage
>batteries? I bought one, but I'm afraid to use it.
>
>Chris

I bought one with about twice the capacity of the original battery (14.8 V
@ 5200 mAh vs 14.8 V @ 2700 mAh) for an old laptop i am "sprucing up".
Works fine for me. YMMV.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Video - Two Girls Go Wild In Attack At McDonalds
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dec46a630f054b69?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 12:54 pm
From: RoadRunner

"Girl" Fight!!!

http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2011/04/mcdonalds-attack/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 1:38 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:36:18 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> Meat Plow wrote:
>>
>> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>
>> > Meat Plow wrote:
>> >>
>> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >>
>> >> > Meat Plow wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >> >> >
>> >> >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
>> >> >> > problems
>> >> >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
>> >> >> in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
>> >> >> later on.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
>> >> > most
>> >> > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
>> >> > Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
>> >> > AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
>> >> > 455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
>> >>
>> >> Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
>> >> bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
>> >> Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
>> >> from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
>> >> the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
>> >> the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.
>> >
>> >
>> > I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
>> > south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(
>>
>> Doesn't that piss you off.
>
>
> I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the
> radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little
> over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two
> trips. :)

Was a semi with a 60, lbs load limit too much money one way?

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 27 2011 1:41 pm
From: "Ron D."

I have, i think, an old vibrator tester that plugged into a tube
tester. It had two lamps sticking out of the side. The vibrator was
bad if they glowed equally or didn't glow at all.

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