sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lead free solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 3:48 pm
From: "Charles"

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
news:8149b5cb-636f-481c-8684-e6b9123c7ac4@dr5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...

On Apr 21, 5:07 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices and
> equipment?

If it's as bad as the lead-free plumbing solder, expect
poor wetting and tendency to set cold. 63/37 tin-lead
can't be beat. Fast, and joints look like they're soldered
with Sterling silver.

The eutectic 63/37 alloy is still easy to buy. Perhaps the repair industry
is dodging the bullet fired at the manufacturing industry. Or, as several
have pointed out, it is impossible to enforce lead-free rules on the
repairers.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:32 pm
From: GS

On Apr 25, 5:45 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "Mike Tomlinson" <m...@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
>
> news:D81zLmAMB6sNFwsX@jasper.org.uk...
>
> > In article <ioufiu$er...@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
> > <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> writes
>
> >>I hate callbacks. I would use lead-based solder on repairs.
>
> > Me too, made sure I'm well stocked up on lead-based solder.
>
> > --
> > (\__/)
> > (='.'=)
> > (")_(")
>
> There is no shortage of lead-based solder, nor is there likely to be in the
> near future. There is still plenty of equipment in the market which is
> produced by sectors that have an exemption for their product class, and
> equipment produced and owned from before June 2006. In both of these cases,
> it is acceptable - and indeed desirable - to use lead-based solder for
> repairs, modifications and upgrades.
>
> Arfa

I am running out of leaded plumbing solder. HELP!!

Greg

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:56 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

GS wrote:
>
> On Apr 25, 5:45 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> > "Mike Tomlinson" <m...@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
> >
> > news:D81zLmAMB6sNFwsX@jasper.org.uk...
> >
> > > In article <ioufiu$er...@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
> > > <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> writes
> >
> > >>I hate callbacks. I would use lead-based solder on repairs.
> >
> > > Me too, made sure I'm well stocked up on lead-based solder.
> >
> > > --
> > > (\__/)
> > > (='.'=)
> > > (")_(")
> >
> > There is no shortage of lead-based solder, nor is there likely to be in the
> > near future. There is still plenty of equipment in the market which is
> > produced by sectors that have an exemption for their product class, and
> > equipment produced and owned from before June 2006. In both of these cases,
> > it is acceptable - and indeed desirable - to use lead-based solder for
> > repairs, modifications and upgrades.
> >
> > Arfa
>
> I am running out of leaded plumbing solder. HELP!!

Have you run out of plumbers to mug? ;-)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:57 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Charles wrote:
>
> "Father Haskell" wrote in message
> news:8149b5cb-636f-481c-8684-e6b9123c7ac4@dr5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
>
> On Apr 21, 5:07 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> > Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices and
> > equipment?
>
> If it's as bad as the lead-free plumbing solder, expect
> poor wetting and tendency to set cold. 63/37 tin-lead
> can't be beat. Fast, and joints look like they're soldered
> with Sterling silver.
>
> The eutectic 63/37 alloy is still easy to buy. Perhaps the repair industry
> is dodging the bullet fired at the manufacturing industry. Or, as several
> have pointed out, it is impossible to enforce lead-free rules on the
> repairers.

Once again, you ignore the fact that Usenet isn't a US only medium.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink compound?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 4:00 pm
From: Bob Villa

On Apr 24, 10:07 pm, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:

>
> Oh, and one other reason to not use Permatex in this application. This
> silicone is an acetoxy cure which means it releases corrosive acetic acid
> when it cures.
>
> Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at live.com

Here is what I have used (in a pinch). And, no...I don't have stock in
Permatex. http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:28 pm
From: GS

On Apr 28, 2:01 pm, josephkk <joseph_barr...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:07:52 -0400, "Barry" <n...@nospam.org> wrote:
>
> >Working around chemists, I had easy access to silicone vacuum stopcock
> >grease. I have used it in a pinch for thermal grease and it worked well.
> >You can find a similar grease in the plumbing department of Lowes and
> >Home Depot. It is used to lubricate valve stems, rubber seals, and those
> >ungodly expensive ceramic Price-Pfister faucets. It will work far better
> >than any Permatex product as a heat transfer grease.
>
> >Oh, and one other reason to not use Permatex in this application. This
> >silicone is an acetoxy cure which means it releases corrosive acetic acid
> >when it cures.
>
> Ahem, not any more.
>
>
>
> > Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at live.com
>
> Only the very old version from thee 1960s were acetoxy cure. I had a lot
> of corroded connections to learn my lesson about that. Then in the early
> 1970s GE came out with the thixotropic variants which use atmospheric
> moisture as an initiator. No more acid release as a byproduct of cure.
> Please get up to date.

Permatex blue is electronic sensor safe, and I was using it in the
80's the cheapest of the electronic grade rtv.
I have used stopcock grease at times.
Regardless of type, but never used 1960 rtv, stuff WILL corrode under
silicone because of moisture build up, not acid corrosion. Clear
varnish should be applied to metal before rtv.
I have tested acidic rtv on foils. The vapor escapes rapidly unless
it's used in a closed box.

Greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 4:14 pm
From: Jim Yanik

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in
news:slrnirj3aa.4g9.gsm@cable.mendelson.com:

> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
>> It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering,
>> tubular FLs have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.

maybe color rendering isn't that important compared to seeing what you're
doing.The eye/brain manages to compensate,excpet under low light levels.

Besides,tungsten lighting(2700K or 3200K) isn't all that "color accurate"
itself. That's why color photo film came in tungsten variety,for better
color rendering for that color temp lighting. Even digital cameras have a
setting for color temp(my cheapo Polaroid does),not that people use them as
they should.
>
> I can't quantify it, but I have a much brighter tubular floursecent
> lamp over my head because of the color problems. It seems I need a lot
> more light to read with them than an incadescent one.
>
> Geoff.
>
you need color rendering accuracy to READ?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 2 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 4:45 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 4/28/2011 8:48 AM spamtrap1888 spake thus:

> On Apr 28, 5:47 am, "William Sommerwerck"
> <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> We're been through this before.
>>
>> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get
>> excellent ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than
>> incandescent -- and have good color balance.
>
> None that I can buy. In my double fixtures I have one incandescent and
> one CFL. Otherwise I have to wait every time I turn on a light.
>
> Further, none of the bulbs I can buy are rated to work outdoors. I put
> one in my porchlight anyway, and it wore out in less time than an
> incandescent.

You're buying the wrong kind of CFLs, then.

All of the *newer* ones I have light almost instantly. Some older ones
have an annoying long startup time. But all of them last a looooong
time. Some of my CFLs are 8-9 years old and still working fine.

So where are you, anyhow?

--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

== 3 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 4:54 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>>> It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering,
>>> tubular FLs have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.

> maybe color rendering isn't that important compared to seeing what you're
> doing.The eye/brain manages to compensate,excpet under low light levels.

It _is_ important in photography, where color accuracy is of considerably
greater significance than "seeing what you're doing".

> Besides, tungsten lighting (2700K or 3200K) isn't all that "color
accurate"
> itself.

In this context, that's not really correct. Any continuous-spectrum lighting
source that's free of holes or peaks in its spectrum inherently has
"perfect" rendering. All it needs is a filter (or RGB gain adjustment) to
give correct rendering for any color temperature.

CFLs generally have discontinuous spectra, and vary widely in rendering
accuracy. The photographic CFLs in my Lowell ego lights are rated at 93%,
which is fairly good.

== 4 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:24 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9ED5C3F112686jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
> "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in
> news:slrnirj3aa.4g9.gsm@cable.mendelson.com:
>
>> William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>
>>> It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering,
>>> tubular FLs have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.
>
> maybe color rendering isn't that important compared to seeing what you're
> doing.The eye/brain manages to compensate,excpet under low light levels.
>
> Besides,tungsten lighting(2700K or 3200K) isn't all that "color accurate"
> itself. That's why color photo film came in tungsten variety,for better
> color rendering for that color temp lighting. Even digital cameras have a
> setting for color temp(my cheapo Polaroid does),not that people use them
> as
> they should.
>>
>> I can't quantify it, but I have a much brighter tubular floursecent
>> lamp over my head because of the color problems. It seems I need a lot
>> more light to read with them than an incadescent one.
>>
>> Geoff.
>>
> you need color rendering accuracy to READ?
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik

I don't know about 'colour rendering accuracy', Jim, but I too find it
extremely difficult to read under CFLs as opposed to incandescent light
sources. I imagine that it is just some characteristic that my eyes have
developed as I've gotten older, and my sight overall, has declined compared
to when I was young. Perhaps I am in a minority of people that suffer in
this way, but trust me, it is very real. Oddly enough though, I have no
trouble at all reading or working under linear flourescent light,
irrespective of the quoted colour composition (eg warm white, daylight etc)
of said tubes.

Arfa

== 5 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:48 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ipcma2$21u$1@dont-email.me...
>> They give you full brightness at switch on, unlike
>> compact fluorescents that take time to warm-up.
>
> Yes, but...
>
> The better CFLs are quite bright at turn-on -- bright enough that you
> don't
> feel you bought a defective lamp.
>
>

The operative word being "quite". I thought you said that your Home Despot
types came on quicker than an incandescent. Certainly doesn't sound that way
from that description ... And as far as I'm concerned, any incandescent
replacement technology lamp that does not produce the *full* light output
within a few mS of switch on, or is ambient temperature dependant for its
performance, *is* a defective lamp.

Arfa

== 6 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:17 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ipbnl5$if2$1@dont-email.me...
>> I just looked on my favourite lamp buying site in the UK, and they don't
>> appear to do any standard lightbulbs except ecobollox types at all now.
> Even
>> the halogen ones that Phil mentions, now don't seem to be available. I
> have
>> one of those in my hallway, and it is superb. They are basically a
>> halogen
>> capsule bulb, inside a 'standard' lightbulb. The one I have is a pearl
> type,
>> so nice even light, but I seem to recall someone saying that even those
> had
>> been made available only in a clear glass outer shell, and now it looks
> like
>> that has gone as well. It really pisses me off actually, that yet another
>> mature technology that gave good even and diffuse light - the whole
>> reason
>> that that pearlisation of the envelope was introduced in the first
>> place -
>> has now been forcibly replaced with an ecobollox product that doesn't
>> hold
> a
>> candle (pun intended) to what it's replacing. I wouldn't mind if the end
>> justified the means. I read the other day that it has been calculated
>> that
>> in the UK, if every single conventional lightbulb was changed for an
>> ecobollox type, all it would save is the output from one small power
>> station.
>
> We're been through this before.
>
> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get excellent
> ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than incandescent -- and
> have
> good color balance.
>
> I've replaced all but the miniature "decorative" lamps in my condo with
> CFLs. I would never go back to incandescent.
>
> I'm writing this in my den. The light is from a 100W-equivalent Home Depot
> CFL in an IKEA shade. The /only/ way you can tell it's not incandescent is
> by looking under the shade.
>
> The bathroom has a 6-bulb "bar". The middle bulbs have been loosened so
> they
> won't light, and the end bulbs replaced with CFLs. Yeah, it looks a bit
> funny. Big deal.
>
>

Well. 'looking a bit funny' might be fine in your home, but it's not in
mine. Light fixtures are part of the decor, chosen as much for their
appearance, as for their lighting function, and I would like to still be
able to get the proper bulbs for them that their designers intended to go in
them. I don't want candle bulbs that are half as long again as the 'real'
thing and stick out of the shades, or convoluted spirals that look
ridiculous in open or glass shaded fixtures. I don't want to go to the local
store and be presented with 96 different bulb types, all vying with one
another to try to tell me what their equivalent power rating is. Even this
is shortly to be replaced over here with yet another piece of nonsense to
try to cover up the poor light output performance of them in comparison to
incandescent types, and that is to start rating them in "Lumens". But they
can't even agree on how that is actually measured, so a bulb with a lower
lumen figure could actually be subjectively brighter than a 'similar' one
with a higher quoted figure. 'Colour balance' is also a fairly meaningless
term. No matter how they mix the phosphors up on them to try to improve the
CRI, the spectrum never-the-less remains discontinuous in comparison to that
of an incandescent bulb. This is true no matter where they are sold or
manufactured. U.S. bought ones are no different in this respect to U.K.
bought ones. Contrary to what many Americans seem to think, the U.K. is not
a technically-backward banana republic.

Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes, But
they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
prompted the OP to make his post ...

Arfa

== 7 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:29 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Adrian Tuddenham" <adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:1k0fkrv.1hb4ln918f80yN%adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid...
> Terry Pinnell <terrypingm@DELETEgmail.com> wrote:
>
>> (Re-posted from the lower traffic sci.electronics.misc group.)
>>
>> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
>> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining
>> stock
>> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.
>
> http://www.wrightshardware.co.uk/Eaccess.htm
>
> --
> ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
> (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
> www.poppyrecords.co.uk

Nice one, Ade. Duly placed in my Favourites folder ... :-)

Arfa

== 8 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:42 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"M.Joshi" <M.Joshi.7ff7fc8@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:M.Joshi.7ff7fc8@diybanter.com...
>
> 'Terry Pinnell[_3_ Wrote:
>> ;2636067'](Re-posted from the lower traffic sci.electronics.misc
>> group.)
>>
>> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
>> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining
>> stock
>> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.
>>
>> --
>> Terry, East Grinstead, UK
>
> Do you mean that your light fittings cannot accomodate the larger
> compact fluorescent bulbs?
>
> If so, there are halogen bulbs available in the same form factor as the
> old incandescent filament bulbs. These are classed as lower energy than
> a standard incandescent and can be purchased from most supermarkets and
> DIY stores. See the link below:
>
> http://tinyurl.com/68nocgh
>
> They give you full brightness at switch on unlike compact fluorescents
> that take time to warm-up.

> --
> M.Joshi

The originals of these were very good - when they used a pearlised outer
envelope. But note the picture in your link shows a clear enveloped capsule
bulb in a clear outer envelope. Unfortunately, this leads to them producing
a 'harsh' light with sharp shadows. Which is precisely why pearlisation of
the envelope of incandescent bulbs, was introduced in the first place. I
have wall lights in my lounge, which use R50 reflectors. They shine up onto
the ceiling, and used to produce a nice diffuse light from the pearl-fronted
bulb envelope. But now, they are only available with a clear-fronted
envelope, and the consequence of this is that the blue glass shade which
used to glow nice and evenly, now has light and dark stripes in it, and the
light that falls on the ceiling, is an image of the filament. I also have a
four lamp fixture here in the computer room, which uses the same bulb type.
The room used to be nice and bright all over. Now, with clear fronted bulbs
fitted, it doesn't matter where you point each individual spot-lamp, the
room is a sea of shadows and pools of light. Gawd, how I hate all this
eco-bollox nonsense ... >:-(

Arfa

== 9 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> 'Colour balance' is also a fairly meaningless
> term. No matter how they mix the phosphors up on them to try to improve
the
> CRI, the spectrum never-the-less remains discontinuous in comparison to
that
> of an incandescent bulb. This is true no matter where they are sold or
> manufactured.

True. But the subjective balance is excellent. The Home Depot bulbs are good
enough for color photography.

> Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes, But
> they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
> over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
> prompted the OP to make his post ...

I've been involved in photography for over 40 years. If the better CFLs
weren't "good", I wouldn't use them.

== 10 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:05 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> >> They give you full brightness at switch on, unlike
> >> compact fluorescents that take time to warm-up.
> >
> > Yes, but...
> >
> > The better CFLs are quite bright at turn-on -- bright enough that you
> > don't feel you bought a defective lamp.

> The operative word being "quite". I thought you said that your Home Despot
> types came on quicker than an incandescent. Certainly doesn't sound that
way
> from that description ... And as far as I'm concerned, any incandescent
> replacement technology lamp that does not produce the *full* light output
> within a few mS of switch on, or is ambient temperature dependant for its
> performance, *is* a defective lamp.

The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another 30
seconds or so. This is a huge improvement over the bulbs from 15 years ago.

== 11 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:31 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Apr 28, 9:05 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > >> They give you full brightness at switch on, unlike
> > >> compact fluorescents that take time to warm-up.
>
> > > Yes, but...
>
> > > The better CFLs are quite bright at turn-on -- bright enough that you
> > > don't feel you bought a defective lamp.
> > The operative word being "quite". I thought you said that your Home Despot
> > types came on quicker than an incandescent. Certainly doesn't sound that
> way
> > from that description ... And as far as I'm concerned, any incandescent
> > replacement technology lamp that does not produce the *full* light output
> > within a few mS of switch on, or is ambient temperature dependant for its
> > performance, *is* a defective lamp.
>
> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
> 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another 30
> seconds or so. This is a huge improvement over the bulbs from 15 years ago.

On one of our stairways, the ceiling light is two identical CFL's.
They come on instantly, at about 80% of full brightness, enought to
see where the top and bottome steps are, so it is not a safety
hazard. I woudl guess that they reach full brightness in 10 sec or
so, just about the time I have traversed the staircase. I have them
all over the house except in dimmable fixtures. I haven't been able
to stomach the cost of the dimmable lights, and we can still buy the
full range of incandescent lamps here in the USA.

== 12 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:38 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Meat Plow"

>>
>> ** AFAIK- even if you came across a stock it is illegal now for anyone
>> to sell them to you.
>
> Who is going to arrest you for selling incandescent bulbs? The bulb
> police?
>

** Here, all that has to happen is someone report the shop keeper to the
relevant Energy Authority.

They would end up being fined for breaching the regulation called " MEPS" =
minimum energy performance standard in relation to selling non compliant
lamps.

.... Phil

== 13 of 13 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:40 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
>> 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another
30
> > seconds or so. This is a huge improvement over the bulbs from 15 years
ago.

> On one of our stairways, the ceiling light is two identical CFL's.
> They come on instantly, at about 80% of full brightness, enought to
> see where the top and bottom steps are, so it is not a safety
> hazard. I would guess that they reach full brightness in 10 sec or
> so, just about the time I have traversed the staircase. I have them
> all over the house except in dimmable fixtures. I haven't been able
> to stomach the cost of the dimmable lights, and we can still buy the
> full range of incandescent lamps here in the USA.

The Home Depot lights are X10-dimmable, though marked as not dimmable.

You need to use a wall-switch lamp controller. These do not interrogate the
lamp to see if the switch has been turned on or off, so you don't get
flickering when the lamp is off.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Problem with Atmel micro in a Kaon TV decoder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5fa629ff20dbe40?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:51 pm
From: Jeroni Paul

On 27 abr, 00:53, Rich Webb <bbew...@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:
> Yes, slowly rising supplies can be a killer.
>
> Holding /OE of the LCX244 might do the trick. The old standby RC setup
> would probably work, although one of the many supervisory chips would be
> more robust.
>
> --
> Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

After trying many solutions this is the simplest working one:

VCC
+
|
.-.
| |
100K| |
'-'
|
+--> /OE
|
___ |/
/RST >--|___|-+----| BC548
560K | |>
|+ |
4.7uF === |
/-\ |
|______|
|
===
GND
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)

The 100K pull-up resistor keeps all outputs in tri-state during power
up ramp as per LCX244 datasheet and it actually works. When /RST goes
high it will start to charge the capacitor slowly and some hundred
milliseconds later will polarize the transistor that will ground /OE
and enable communication with a perfect transition. I have tested this
in a proto board with wires soldered to the unit and works great, have
been turning on and off the unit repeatedly now and then and no more
reboots!

Initially I targeted to remove the slow ramp only and it did not fix
the issue. Apparently the ramp does not cause the reboots or is not
the only reason for them. So I increased the delay to also remove two
or three bursts received from the main unit that look like ACK of some
sort as they are all very short and appear to carry no useful
information at all (I can't say they cause the reboots because they
are present and are identical when it starts fine). I adjusted the
delay so that communication will be enabled around 100ms before the
first useful burst and that appears to do the trick.

Thank you so much for all your help!

By the way this is a Kaon KVR-1000TS+

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Found: E book stash.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e957cecc59313da7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:21 pm
From: jim beam

On 04/28/2011 03:54 PM, Gagi-9a6aag wrote:
> "Adrian C"<email@here.invalid> wrote
>> Very wrong, all of this IMO :-(
>
> well, Adrian,...generally speaking i totally agre with you...and i support
> such way of thinking like yours...but...tell me, how do you think i am able
> to buy a damn XP OS licence that was/is around 120Euros (or 100 UK pounds)
> when i have month salary of 350 euros...my flat and bills (minimum ones)
> takes around 150-200 euros a month, a food, underaverage ingridiets (meat
> slice maybe once a week) takes at last 150-200euros as well...so, to buy a
> simple shoes, pair of jeans or shirt is like a mission impossible if you
> idnt plan ti at least 2-3 months in advance to save some extra money for
> it...and then, besie that, to have a car is MUST HAVE as well...and i was
> driving a car i bought for 600euros...and 1 liter of fuel is 1.5
> euros....and safety licence and insurance takes around 400euros a
> year....etc..etc...to manage just a basic life needs you must be a
> economy/financial master to succeed sucessfully manage all the costs and
> minimum needs.....and usually everything is solved with some long term loans
> hoping some better days will come ahead....
>
> people here are buying FOOD with damn loan...can you imagine that?!!?...that
> even food is payed with loaned money...what means people cant earn enough
> just for minimum of daily life standards.....so, to have a PC is
> LUXURY....and to have internet (ADSL 2gbit DL and 256kbit Up) means you own
> a world....and to buy a licence for some software like Win XP...it would
> mean you lost your mind or your parents are relatives of Donald Trump,
> Rockefeller...or somone like that...
>
> of course...things are not so depressive, bad and black....there are many
> who can afford themselves all of mentioned above plus vacation at Ibiza at
> summer time or ski vacation at winter time....but those are just minority...
>
>
> there is no middle class anymore...people are low rich, mid rich or sick
> rich and all those can afford themselves everythign mentioned and a bit more
> ....while on other side completely poor and to buy a PC for 200 euros with
> old CRT screen seems like a dream to them...
>
>
> look for example; i live only 120km or like 70 miles away form sea
> side...for last 7 years i cant affrod myself vacation at seaside for even 3
> days to stay at coast.....WHY?!?!....simple...coz the prices for some
> average apartment is around 50-70 euros a day....so, just 3 days would cost
> me half of my month salary....i will need ther eat least 10 euros a day to
> eat something...plus aprox aprox 25-30euros for fuel there and back (without
> driving a lot around) and dont forget i need to spend aprox 150 euros for my
> monthly bills and falt no matter where i am....
>
> so, after all this...and this is just a simple example and there are dozens
> of more examples....my only question is; would you let me use pirat OS and
> be able to participate in global communication and development of IT world
> and new generation of people.....or you will rather make us all
> informatically stupid and undeveloped just coz we cant afford ourselves
> licenced software....
>
> you must remember one thing, and that is; the fact your country standard
> makes you easier able to buy some software doesnt mean you worth more then
> some Indian or Croatian who cant afford it but can use it and understand it
> maybe even better then you...(in sense of mentality over reaching the pirat
> things)
> i am not saying you are the one like that judging...but i have met some like
> that...
>
>
> anyway...i have been hanging with Americans, Canadians, French even UK's for
> years and i asure you so the rest of people form this gorup how there is a
> lot higher number of people from those countries that are using pirat
> materials then the statistical reports are showing...
> for example...pirate movies are ordinary thing in USA....i can name 90% of
> my friends from states (and i know aprox 100-120 people from states) all
> using "torrents" to download movies hits...so, this West - East piracy
> estimation is just a story for CNN....reality is something completely
> different...i am prety sure in that...
>
> or by other words...if prices of software are like 50% of average month
> salary of USA....trust me; 90% of USA citizens would NEVER buy a single
> Windwos licence....and MS Office not even in madness :))
>
> hmm..average USA salaray a month around 2005. - 2006. was aprox 1800US$ (in
> range of 1400 up to 2200US$ class which takes a majority of USA citizens)
> so, now imagine that Win XP licence price was/is 900US$....pffft...entire
> USA would be piratized with Win OS...thats not a presumption, but fact...

why would anyone pirate micro$$$oft when they can use linux/software
libre???

--
nomina rutrum rutrum

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Challenge of Repairing vs Trashing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3cd5c17c8ebe1b1c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:43 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Apr 26, 2:13 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> There are some very poorly made LED flashlights around, and some of them are
> anything but reliable.
>
> I generally take most things apart to see the (lack of) quality of
> work/production methods.
> One package of extremely low cost 3-AAA cell F-Ls were made to very low
> quality standards.. the LED leads were just twisted together to form the (+)
> battery contact, and the (-) leads-to-case were just jammed between the
> plastic "reflector" and case.
> Apparently, these were all hand assembled, and had no soldered connections
> in them.
>
> In general, the heavier the case and the more machining that's required to
> make the case parts, the better the quality of production, as far as I've
> seen.
>
> Some of the better quality 1W single LED models ($4-8) that I use regularly
> have been very reliable.
>
> While I have them apart, I'll apply a little DeoxIT paste to contacts, seals
> and threads.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
> "Robert Macy" <m...@california.com> wrote in message
>
> news:a8f73527-5ba6-41af-a738-f1c192b5e5cc@hd10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
>
> Interesting. This torch is a 'fat' mag-like lite and has six LED's
> with the small 'dime' size PCB and a 3 battery pack plastic
> assembly.
>
> Closer examination shows that 3 LED's stay lit, but the others are
> OFF, except one or two [of the three on one side] flicker as though
> trying to come ON. Flicker rate is more like ON for 20 OFF for 80.
> Eye retention gives the impression that the LED(s) is on longer.
>
> Earlier comments about connection are interesting in that unscrewing
> the front end with the LED assembly - the LED's pretty much stay lit.
> BUT! even the slightest unscrewing the tail end [where switch is
> located] causes LED's to either go out or substantially change flicker
> patterns.
>
> Regards,

Is this a Harbor Freight lite, of one very similar? The switch is a
rubber button in the screw-on base, and is marginally usable for 500
pushes.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"hrhofmann@att.net" wrote:
>
> On Apr 26, 2:13 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> > There are some very poorly made LED flashlights around, and some of them are
> > anything but reliable.
> >
> > I generally take most things apart to see the (lack of) quality of
> > work/production methods.
> > One package of extremely low cost 3-AAA cell F-Ls were made to very low
> > quality standards.. the LED leads were just twisted together to form the (+)
> > battery contact, and the (-) leads-to-case were just jammed between the
> > plastic "reflector" and case.
> > Apparently, these were all hand assembled, and had no soldered connections
> > in them.
> >
> > In general, the heavier the case and the more machining that's required to
> > make the case parts, the better the quality of production, as far as I've
> > seen.
> >
> > Some of the better quality 1W single LED models ($4-8) that I use regularly
> > have been very reliable.
> >
> > While I have them apart, I'll apply a little DeoxIT paste to contacts, seals
> > and threads.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > WB
> > .............
> >
> > "Robert Macy" <m...@california.com> wrote in message
> >
> > news:a8f73527-5ba6-41af-a738-f1c192b5e5cc@hd10g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > Interesting. This torch is a 'fat' mag-like lite and has six LED's
> > with the small 'dime' size PCB and a 3 battery pack plastic
> > assembly.
> >
> > Closer examination shows that 3 LED's stay lit, but the others are
> > OFF, except one or two [of the three on one side] flicker as though
> > trying to come ON. Flicker rate is more like ON for 20 OFF for 80.
> > Eye retention gives the impression that the LED(s) is on longer.
> >
> > Earlier comments about connection are interesting in that unscrewing
> > the front end with the LED assembly - the LED's pretty much stay lit.
> > BUT! even the slightest unscrewing the tail end [where switch is
> > located] causes LED's to either go out or substantially change flicker
> > patterns.
> >
> > Regards,
>
> Is this a Harbor Freight lite, of one very similar? The switch is a
> rubber button in the screw-on base, and is marginally usable for 500
> pushes.

You can find several different types of replacment pushbutton
switches and the flexible covers for LED flashlights on
http://www.amazon.com

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: three pin multi colour led to two pin led
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2426227629ec773?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:00 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

tom wrote:
>
> There's a schematic on the board: ----------------------------------
>
> | |
>
> | |
> | --*---------
> *--------*-- |
> | | |___>|_|_|
> <__| | |
> | |
> * * | |
> | |____|>| __|
> ____| |
> | |
> + | |
> |
> | | |
> | |
> * * | |
> | |____|_>|__|
> ____| |
> |__|__+___________|
> __|
>
> | |
> A slightly cruder version(I hope this formats ok) :) The asterisk
> denote contact points. The top three are what is currently used to
> power the three pin led, the other two sets are not being used.

You need to use a fixed width font, if you want most people to be
able to view your drawing. Google uses a proportional font as default.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:16 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"boardjunkie1"

Good info. Haven't had one of these cross my path yet. Just finished
up on a DSL100 that had to have the main pcb replaced due to the bias
instability issue caused by crappy board material. The replacements
look to be FR4 or similar good quality stuff.

** Seen that problem a few times - it's an absolute nightmare.

Marshall should make new PCBs available for free.

.... Phil

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive