sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Vietnamese Marshall - 3 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
* Old style filament lamps? - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
* Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink compound? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
* PAYPAL WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGG BOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,
JERSEY,T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on http://www.24
hours-online.com/. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0bb00d524a7c790b?hl=en

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TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:16 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"boardjunkie1"

Good info. Haven't had one of these cross my path yet. Just finished
up on a DSL100 that had to have the main pcb replaced due to the bias
instability issue caused by crappy board material. The replacements
look to be FR4 or similar good quality stuff.

** Seen that problem a few times - it's an absolute nightmare.

Marshall should make new PCBs available for free.

.... Phil

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 10:13 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Phil Allison"

> ** A rather new looking Marshall " MA100H " valve head landed on my bench
> today - but it looked a bit different.

** Anyone located a schem for this POS on the net ??

... Phil

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 12:02 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Phil Allison"
>
> On the PCB is a 630mA delay fuse - very blown - fitting a new one got the
> amp running.
>
> That 630 mA HT fuse should be 1 amp at least, since it is fitted in the
> secondary of the PT. On test, the fuse had to pass just over 1 amp rms
> when the amp is over-driven.

** Just for clarity - the 630mA delay fuse was as fitted in the factory and
as labelled on the PCB.

.... Phil

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TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
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== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:35 pm
From: Father Haskell

On Apr 28, 9:53 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> "Smitty Two" <prestwh...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news:prestwhich-E77428.05553828042011@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> > In article <ipbnl5$if...@dont-email.me>,
> >  "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get
> >> excellent ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than
> >> incandescent -- and have good color balance.
> > You buy CFLs that come on faster than an incandescent? Would
> > like to see a pic of the packaging so I know what to look for at HD.
> > I'm just a tad skeptical. Do you know the color temp?
>
> I've been using Home Depot's store brand -- EcoSmart -- for several years.
> Consumer Reports recently gave them a very high rating.
>
> No color temp or rendering quality is specified. But the balance is on the
> warm side. It's acceptable (in my opinion) for non-critical color
> photography.

Probably warm / soft white; any other fluorescent is
horror movie lighting. If you don't have the color temp
spec, hold a lit, known temperature bulb next to it and
see if it looks redder, bluer, or the same.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:55 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 28, 7:05 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > >> They give you full brightness at switch on, unlike
> > >> compact fluorescents that take time to warm-up.
>
> > > Yes, but...
>
> > > The better CFLs are quite bright at turn-on -- bright enough that you
> > > don't feel you bought a defective lamp.
> > The operative word being "quite". I thought you said that your Home Despot
> > types came on quicker than an incandescent. Certainly doesn't sound that
> way
> > from that description ... And as far as I'm concerned, any incandescent
> > replacement technology lamp that does not produce the *full* light output
> > within a few mS of switch on, or is ambient temperature dependant for its
> > performance, *is* a defective lamp.
>
> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
> 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another 30
> seconds or so. This is a huge improvement over the bulbs from 15 years ago.

Nothing I've seen on the market today equals the Panasonic CFLs of
years ago, either in time to full output or longevity.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 10:42 pm
From: Terry Pinnell

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes, But
>they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
>over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
>prompted the OP to make his post ...

Arfa: Agreed. My feelings exactly.

--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 10:54 pm
From: Terry Pinnell

M.Joshi <M.Joshi.7ff7fc8@diybanter.com> wrote:

>
>'Terry Pinnell[_3_ Wrote:
>> ;2636067'](Re-posted from the lower traffic sci.electronics.misc
>> group.)
>>
>> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
>> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining
>> stock
>> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.
>>
>> --
>> Terry, East Grinstead, UK
>
>Do you mean that your light fittings cannot accomodate the larger
>compact fluorescent bulbs?

No, my gripes are more basic: I like instant light when I flick a switch
and I like bright light to work and read by. I also resent what seems to
be downright misleading statements by the manufacturers about 'equivalent'
ratings. I've never found one that warrants the claim.

>If so, there are halogen bulbs available in the same form factor as the
>old incandescent filament bulbs. These are classed as lower energy than
>a standard incandescent and can be purchased from most supermarkets and
>DIY stores. See the link below:
>
>http://tinyurl.com/68nocgh
>
>They give you full brightness at switch on unlike compact fluorescents
>that take time to warm-up.

Thanks, I'll investigate and try a few, although from what I've read
up-thread it sounds as if I'll still favour the old filament types.

That link gave me a nice picture but can anyone recommend a specific 60W
and 100W UK supplier please?

--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 11:45 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Terry Pinnell"
> "Arfa Daily"
>
>>Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes, But
>>they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
>>over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
>>prompted the OP to make his post ...
>
> Arfa: Agreed. My feelings exactly.

** Arfa has admitted to being colour blind.

So you are too - it seems.

Have trouble with 1% resistor codes do we???

12% of all males are colour blind - ie they fail one of the basic tests.

Only 1 or 2% of females are so afflicted - but THEY are the CARRIERS !

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Has anyone tried this product for heat-sink compound?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6163429af05daf16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 9:26 pm
From: isw

In article <tiajr6d495fif2ggmqi23fi9me1mglcohu@4ax.com>,
josephkk <joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:07:52 -0400, "Barry" <none@nospam.org> wrote:
>
> >
> >Working around chemists, I had easy access to silicone vacuum stopcock
> >grease. I have used it in a pinch for thermal grease and it worked well.
> >You can find a similar grease in the plumbing department of Lowes and
> >Home Depot. It is used to lubricate valve stems, rubber seals, and those
> >ungodly expensive ceramic Price-Pfister faucets. It will work far better
> >than any Permatex product as a heat transfer grease.
> >
> >Oh, and one other reason to not use Permatex in this application. This
> >silicone is an acetoxy cure which means it releases corrosive acetic acid
> >when it cures.
>
> Ahem, not any more.
> >
> > Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ ham_call_letters at live.com
> >
>
> Only the very old version from thee 1960s were acetoxy cure. I had a lot
> of corroded connections to learn my lesson about that. Then in the early
> 1970s GE came out with the thixotropic variants which use atmospheric
> moisture as an initiator. No more acid release as a byproduct of cure.

And far too often, no curing, either. At least the acetic-acid-releasing
stuff got hard in a reasonable amount of time.

Isaac

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0bb00d524a7c790b?hl=en
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