sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PAYPAL WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGG BOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,
JERSEY,T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on http://www.24
hours-online.com/.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0bb00d524a7c790b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 12:02 am
From: jialiu

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 1:40 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <ipd6e4$ml9$1@dont-email.me>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>
> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
> 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another 30
> seconds or so.

That is some serious backpedaling from your earlier assertions. Thanks
for telling the truth this time around.

== 2 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 1:46 am
From: Geo

On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 06:54:48 +0100, Terry Pinnell
<terrypingm@DELETEgmail.com> wrote:

>That link gave me a nice picture but can anyone recommend a specific 60W
>and 100W UK supplier please?

CPC Farnell
LP00298 100W BC PEARL
£4.72 (inc VAT) for 10

They do not seem to do 60 watt but our local high street electrical
shop still sells both.

== 3 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 1:49 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Jim Yanik wrote:
> you need color rendering accuracy to READ?

I don't have a way of quantifying it, but a continous source is much easier
for me to use as a reading lamp. So a 20 watt halogen lamp on "low" is
easier to read than an 11 watt flourescent at the same distance.

Farther away it works the same way too, but I no longer have an incandesent
lamps except for special purpose ones (reading lamps, photgraphic safelights,
etc) to do an eaual distance comparison.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 4 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 1:51 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <qUoup.44607$bT6.18127@newsfe05.ams2>,
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> I would like to still be
> able to get the proper bulbs for them that their designers intended to go in
> them.

If you really didn't stock up before the bans, have you tried bulbs.com
or similar?

== 5 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 1:59 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Arfa Daily wrote:
> Well. 'looking a bit funny' might be fine in your home, but it's not in
> mine. Light fixtures are part of the decor, chosen as much for their
> appearance, as for their lighting function, and I would like to still be
> able to get the proper bulbs for them that their designers intended to go in
> them. I don't want candle bulbs that are half as long again as the 'real'
> thing and stick out of the shades, or convoluted spirals that look
> ridiculous in open or glass shaded fixtures.

That's my biggest problem with CFL's. I can live with the color problems,
I can live with the slow startup, but what bothers me is the extremely bright
end sticking beyond the fixture causing my eyes to compensate when I look in
that direction, making the rest of the room too dark until I look away and
they recover.

It's very annoying that while I have several globe fixtures that perfectly well
took 75 watt incadescent bulbs, there are no similar CFLs. Even the short
curly ones don't fit in the same space once they get beyond the equivalent
of a 40 watt incadescent bulb. :-(

Also what do you put in a refrigerator?????

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 6 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 2:30 am
From: Geo

Or £6.99 for 10 (post free) on ebay:-
item no. 230611860137

== 7 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 4:50 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:91v54rFr3mU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Terry Pinnell"
>> "Arfa Daily"
>>
>>>Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes,
>>>But
>>>they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
>>>over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
>>>prompted the OP to make his post ...
>>
>> Arfa: Agreed. My feelings exactly.
>
>
> ** Arfa has admitted to being colour blind.
>
> So you are too - it seems.
>
> Have trouble with 1% resistor codes do we???
>
> 12% of all males are colour blind - ie they fail one of the basic tests.
>
> Only 1 or 2% of females are so afflicted - but THEY are the CARRIERS !
>
>
>
> .... Phil
>
>

Yes indeed - I am colour blind, and if that is what makes the difference
between someone who does have an issue with CFLs, and someone who doesn't,
then 12% - one eighth - of the population being forced to suffer because
of this legislation, seems a pretty poor show of arrogance by the powers
that be, in insisting that we suffer in the way that we are being made to
...

Arfa

== 8 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:05 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Probably warm / soft white; any other fluorescent is
> horror movie lighting. If you don't have the color temp
> spec, hold a lit, known temperature bulb next to it and
> see if it looks redder, bluer, or the same.

It is difficult to specify a "color temperature" for a non-continuous
source.

The bare bulbs look "white", leaning a bit to the warm side.

== 9 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:07 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ipd6e4$ml9$1@dont-email.me...
>> >> They give you full brightness at switch on, unlike
>> >> compact fluorescents that take time to warm-up.
>> >
>> > Yes, but...
>> >
>> > The better CFLs are quite bright at turn-on -- bright enough that you
>> > don't feel you bought a defective lamp.
>
>> The operative word being "quite". I thought you said that your Home
>> Despot
>> types came on quicker than an incandescent. Certainly doesn't sound that
> way
>> from that description ... And as far as I'm concerned, any incandescent
>> replacement technology lamp that does not produce the *full* light output
>> within a few mS of switch on, or is ambient temperature dependant for its
>> performance, *is* a defective lamp.
>
> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge to be around
> 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full brightness takes another
> 30
> seconds or so. This is a huge improvement over the bulbs from 15 years
> ago.
>
>

With all due respect William, that is the most feeble justification that you
have come up with so far. It's like the government banning cars and making
everybody buy bikes instead, and then turning round and saying that riding a
bike is still better than when you had to walk before the bike was invented
... If it has taken 15 years so far to get these dreadful things from
total crap to utter crap, then by the time they are actually at a point
where they can properly replace incandescent lamps, I will be a pile of dust
anyway. I'm afraid that I cannot, by any stretch of my imagination, equate
"60%" and "30 seconds" to either "instant" or satisfactory replacement
technology. If they really were 'good', they wouldn't need defending against
all of the criticisms that are levelled against them by (colour blind ??)
people the world over.

Arfa

== 10 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:20 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Yes, indeed -- I am colour blind, and if that is what makes the
> difference between someone who does have an issue with
> CFLs, and someone who doesn't, then 12% -- one eighth --
> of the population being forced to suffer because of this legislation,
> seems a pretty poor show of arrogance by the powers that be, in
> insisting that we suffer in the way that we are being made to.

I assume you suffer from protanopia or deuteranopia. My father did. (I
don't.)

I worked with a guy with that problem. One day he asked me to help him pick
colors for a Web site. It was causing him all kinds of confusion. I showed
him a fluorescent-green pen, and asked him what color it looked to him --
"Orange". (That doesn't mean he saw it in the way a person with normal color
vision would see orange. Rather, he could not distinguish it from what we
would call orange.)

Peter Wensberg, the author of "Land's Polaroid" (a beautifully written and
wonderfully entertaining book) told how, during a lunch of Chinese takeout,
Dr Land administered one of the standard color perception tests (the kind
with colored circles, where you indicate which letter or number you see).
Wensberg utterly flunked it, getting every one wrong.

I've lived with fluorescent light for more than 60 years, and have never
suffered (except in my early days at Microsoft, when the office lights gave
me (and some others) headaches). It appears to me that your suffering is
primarily aesthetic.

== 11 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:24 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-8CBAD3.01402329042011@mx01.eternal-september.org...
> In article <ipd6e4$ml9$1@dont-email.me>,
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> The Home Depot lamps come on instantly at a level I'd judge
>> to be around 60% -- maybe higher -- of full brightness. Full
>> brightness takes another 30 seconds or so.

> That is some serious backpedaling from your earlier assertions.
> Thanks for telling the truth this time around.

I'm not backpedaling in the least. They do, indeed, come on instantly. You
ASSUMED that "come on" means "light at full brightness".

Consider tubular fluorescent lights. Many DO NOT come on instantly. But when
they do light, it's at full brightness -- at THAT instant, which could be
considered the point of turn-on.

== 12 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:28 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> What do you put in a refrigerator?????

Refrigerator bulbs represent such a small percentage of energy consumption
there would be no point in switching to CFLs.

Once the color problems with LEDs are solved, there will no doubt be an LED
refrigerator lamp.

== 13 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 6:43 am
From: Roger Blake

On 2011-04-29, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> ** Here, all that has to happen is someone report the shop keeper to the
> relevant Energy Authority.

Very Orwellian, and I suspect this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Rather than fawning all over the "royal couple" (it's hard to imagine a
more worthless set of parasitical leeches than the "royal" family), it may
be time for the Brits to start planning revolution.

Of course we have our own problems with these enviro-nazi types on our side
of the pond as well. When a ban on incandescents was planned here I stocked
up and have a basement with a lifetime supply of good ol' 100 watt bulbs.

--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Blake (Change "invalid" to "com" for email. Google Groups killfiled.)

"Climate policy has almost nothing to do anymore with environmental
protection... the next world climate summit in Cancun is actually
an economy summit during which the distribution of the world's
resources will be negotiated." -- Ottmar Edenhofer, IPCC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

== 14 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 6:44 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Arfa Daily wrote:
> Yes indeed - I am colour blind, and if that is what makes the difference
> between someone who does have an issue with CFLs, and someone who doesn't,
> then 12% - one eighth - of the population being forced to suffer because
> of this legislation, seems a pretty poor show of arrogance by the powers
> that be, in insisting that we suffer in the way that we are being made

That's an interesting point. If 12% of the population is aflicted with a
gentic disorder, or one caused by a disease or trauma, then the National
Health should provide them with incadescent bulbs and a susbidy for
electricity to run them.

I know the US has the "Americans with Disabilities Act" that would require
it, and I'm sure there is something in British or EU law like that.

I would persue it based on what the National Health does for people
with macular degeneration and work backwards. At what point is the
inability to see defined and where does color blindness affect your
daily life.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 15 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 6:59 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Arfa Daily wrote:
> I'm afraid that I cannot, by any stretch of my imagination, equate
> "60%" and "30 seconds" to either "instant" or satisfactory replacement
> technology.
>

Besides outdoor lighting where I needed hundreds of watts of incandesent
lighting, I used the first for indoor lighting in places that
traditionally have lights on timers. In a windowless bathroom an 8 watt CFL
provides enough light at so low a cost I just leave them on.

After all a timer uses electricty too, and figuring out when to have it go
on and off without leaving people in the dark is an art.

We don't turn lights on or off during the Sabbath, and used to leave the
main light in our apartment on all Friday night. We installed a timer
to turn it off at midnight (when the last of us goes to sleep) and on again
at six AM, (when the first of us gets up), but it will take 200 weeks
to even out the cost of the timer and installation versus the cost
of electricity. By that time, we will have long since moved out. :-(

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 16 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 7:26 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> Yes indeed - I am colour blind, and if that is what makes the difference
> between someone who does have an issue with CFLs, and someone who doesn't,
> then 12% - one eighth - of the population being forced to suffer because
> of this legislation, seems a pretty poor show of arrogance by the powers
> that be, in insisting that we suffer in the way that we are being made to

It's time for the villagers to gather their pitchforks and burning
torch, and storm that infestation in Belgium.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 17 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 7:38 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> > What do you put in a refrigerator?????
>
> Refrigerator bulbs represent such a small percentage of energy consumption
> there would be no point in switching to CFLs.
>
> Once the color problems with LEDs are solved, there will no doubt be an LED
> refrigerator lamp.

There are small LED replacements that may fit a refrigerator.

<http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=e26+led&_frs=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m359>

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 18 of 18 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 7:41 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:
>
> Arfa Daily wrote:
> > I'm afraid that I cannot, by any stretch of my imagination, equate
> > "60%" and "30 seconds" to either "instant" or satisfactory replacement
> > technology.
> >
>
> Besides outdoor lighting where I needed hundreds of watts of incandesent
> lighting, I used the first for indoor lighting in places that
> traditionally have lights on timers. In a windowless bathroom an 8 watt CFL
> provides enough light at so low a cost I just leave them on.

I have several motion sensor lights in my house so I don't have to
search for a light switch when I have my hands full, or I'm half asleep.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: three pin multi colour led to two pin led
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2426227629ec773?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 2:37 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ipcokg$63n$1@dont-email.me...
> tom wrote:
>> On Apr 28, 3:18 pm, Ken <K...@invalid.com> wrote:
>>> mike wrote:
>>>> tom wrote:
>>>>> Hello. I've never done this before so I just want to make sure I'm
>>>>> doing this correctly. I want to change a three pin multi colour led
>>>>> activity light on a dvd drive to a two pin blue led. I'm guessing I
>>>>> need to join the two cathode inputs on the circuit board together?
>>>>> Makes sense to me but I don't want to screw anything up. Thanks
>>>> Look at the circuit diagram or reverse-engineer it.
>>>> Tying pins together might work just fine...maybe...or it may let the
>>>> smoke out. I can't count the number if times I assumed the designer
>>>> was logical and F'd something up.
>>>> Depending on how clever the original designer, there's more than one
>>>> way to connect stuff. Tying pins together is a risky thing to do.
>>>> Might be safer to replace with two blue led's.
>>>> Or, since you're throwing away one indication, use one led and forget
>>>> the
>>>> other.
>>>> What's the cost of a new drive? How badly do you want the blue light?
>>>> The thing has two colors for a reason.
>>>> I don't remember the Shakespeare quote, but to goes somehthing
>>>> like, "if it bothers you, stick tape over it."
>>>> Or just Leave it alone and train yourself to ignore it!!!
>>>> If you have to ask the question, leaving it alone is appropriate.
>>> He might also try installing a diode between each input lead and
>>> the
>>> controlling lead of the LED. This would provide isolation and possibly
>>> damage to the other control circuit.
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. There's a schematic on the board and it looks
>> like this. http://tinypic.com/r/29ynsrq/7 Currently the top three
>> connections are being used for the led.
>
> Your schematic is missing ALL the critical parts.
> What drives the leds?
> Likely comes out of some chip somewhere and you probably still won't
> know what drives the leds unless you reverse-engineer the circuit and/or
> the chip, depending on what documentation is available.
>
> Put two blue leds and be done with it.
>
> I am kinda curious what's so important about this that you'd risk
> blowing up the drive??

That 'schematic' appears to show two manufacturer's options, the first being
the three pin bi-colour LED that you currently have fitted, and the other
being two single colour LEDs - one in each of the hole pairs below the three
hole set. One thing that you might like to bear in mind is that a blue LED
requires approximately twice the voltage across it to illuminate
satisfactorily, than does a red or green or yellow. This may or may not be
an issue, depending on how the original LEDs are driven. I'm basically with
everyone else. You're asking how to fit triangular wheels to your car, but
nor telling us why exactly you need to do it ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 4:41 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:91uvn5FnqfU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Phil Allison"
>
>> ** A rather new looking Marshall " MA100H " valve head landed on my bench
>> today - but it looked a bit different.
>
>
> ** Anyone located a schem for this POS on the net ??
>
>
>
> ... Phil
>

I have three different issue numbers of schematics for the MA100, but none
seem to identify specifically an MA100 "H". If they are any use to you,
contact me off-group.

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 6:49 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Arfa Daily"
>
> I have three different issue numbers of schematics for the MA100, but none
> seem to identify specifically an MA100 "H". If they are any use to you,
> contact me off-group.

** Marshall sell ( note not make) an MA100H and an MA100C.

H = head and C = combo.

Decades ago, H-H made an amp called the MA100.

..... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Stark 9-66 tube tester repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bf2519188d6af07?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:41 am
From: "fabian_hartery@yahoo.ca"

Thanks to the help of this group, I shunted two 82 ohms and two 220
ohms to get the 41 and 109 values. Thanks to Ohmite for actually
selling a product where I did not need to buy 50 of something to get
some decent precision resistors. Digi Key and Ohmites 40 series was
the deal. The 150 ohms was a off the shelf gift.

Yes, I do need to do a full cal but this ancient repair just swung the
needle from going south.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Problem with Atmel micro in a Kaon TV decoder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5fa629ff20dbe40?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 5:39 am
From: Rich Webb

On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 17:51:53 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul
<JERONI.PAUL@terra.es> wrote:

>On 27 abr, 00:53, Rich Webb <bbew...@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:
>> Yes, slowly rising supplies can be a killer.
>>
>> Holding /OE of the LCX244 might do the trick. The old standby RC setup
>> would probably work, although one of the many supervisory chips would be
>> more robust.
>>
>> --
>> Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
>
>After trying many solutions this is the simplest working one:
>
> VCC
> +
> |
> .-.
> | |
> 100K| |
> '-'
> |
> +--> /OE
> |
> ___ |/
> /RST >--|___|-+----| BC548
> 560K | |>
> |+ |
> 4.7uF === |
> /-\ |
> |______|
> |
> ===
> GND
>(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)
>
>The 100K pull-up resistor keeps all outputs in tri-state during power
>up ramp as per LCX244 datasheet and it actually works. When /RST goes
>high it will start to charge the capacitor slowly and some hundred
>milliseconds later will polarize the transistor that will ground /OE
>and enable communication with a perfect transition. I have tested this
>in a proto board with wires soldered to the unit and works great, have
>been turning on and off the unit repeatedly now and then and no more
>reboots!
>
>Initially I targeted to remove the slow ramp only and it did not fix
>the issue. Apparently the ramp does not cause the reboots or is not
>the only reason for them. So I increased the delay to also remove two
>or three bursts received from the main unit that look like ACK of some
>sort as they are all very short and appear to carry no useful
>information at all (I can't say they cause the reboots because they
>are present and are identical when it starts fine). I adjusted the
>delay so that communication will be enabled around 100ms before the
>first useful burst and that appears to do the trick.
>
>Thank you so much for all your help!
>
>By the way this is a Kaon KVR-1000TS+

Good news and excellent troubleshooting to zero in on the problem!

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Modifying a USB cable to charge iPod without PC connection
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c6ee222855c74ad2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 7:04 am
From: Man-wai Chang

http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2008/07/simple_hack_turns_usb_charger_units_into_iphone_chargers-2/

+5V ---50k --- D-
|
10k
|
GND ---40K --- D+

Is this safe? Would it work?

--
@~@ Might, Courage, Vision, SINCERITY.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.38.4
^ ^ 22:00:02 up 5 days 2:01 1 user load average: 1.10 1.08 1.05
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Triple ganged pots
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0db7c3a79a7550cb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 29 2011 8:09 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 28, 2:11 pm, "caius" <bric...@yahoo.it> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggionews:ef7e1ca7-7806-48fa-ad18-6eed4d346405@s34g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
> >You could start at potentiometers.com. I see they have >KKK triple gang
> >pots, as well as modular pots that go eight deep.
>
> Thanks.Sadly they accept only order from a minimum of 50 pieces and each
> piece of the KKK pot is 50$..

Try this:

http://www.surplussales.com/potentiometers/PBM-Shafted/PBM-Shafted-3.html

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