sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* What kills a valve rectifier? - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3452d3f8314c6ded?hl=en
* Update: Icom IC-7000 Low UHF Output Power - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/540e476233475a85?hl=en
* AM/FM radio troubleshooting - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e2ca200c549afdd?hl=en
* Wall Warts - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de407a5056a54ee0?hl=en
* Are faulty APC UPS's easy repairs or is it throw in the trash? - 5 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/afd84408acb5d795?hl=en
* WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGGBOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,JERSEY,T-
SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b919e5f9e1e1dbd9?hl=en
* Fix your gadgets - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5a0d188460e10c6e?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What kills a valve rectifier?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3452d3f8314c6ded?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 12:29 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase Kook"

> I totally agree a couple of 1N4007 and sag Rs would be fine by me but we
> are
> talking musos here and the "valve sound" would magically dissappear. Of
> course if I told them nothing about swapping to SS, the valve sound would
> not disappear - strange old world isn't it.

** Just fit the diodes ( two pairs in series is a good idea ) and add
resistance only if it seems essential to do so.

he dud GZ34 can stay for ornamental value.

Tell the owner you fixed it.

BTW:

I fix lots of octal a valves, for bad soldering on the pins and flash burns
between plate and heater pins - even if it means removing the octal base to
do so.

Well worth it with newish 6550s, KT88s etc.

.... Phil

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 10:24 am
From: "Ian Field"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:iriaeb$4jg$1@dont-email.me...
> spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:bd8dbf0e-9a3e-4397-a570-7af6541e38cd@d26g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
> On May 24, 6:38 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>> "Arfa Daily"
>>
>>
>>
>> >> What do you think about subbing the 5AR4 with a 5U4?
>>
>> > Never tried it, but looking at the specs, they look rather different
> from
>> > one another, see -
>>
>> >http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0997.htm
>>
>> >http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0504.htm
>>
>> ** Useless info.
>>
>> The big difference between the 5AR4 and the 5U4 is in amount of voltage
> drop
>> across each diode when conducting.
>>
>> The 5AR4 is uses an indirectly heated cathode, close coupled to each
>> plate
>> and the voltage drop is very low, about 35 volts at 700mA peak.
>>
>> The 5U4 uses a directly heated cathode with lotsa space between the
>> plates
>> and the cathodes - so there is a much bigger drop in voltage, more like
>> 100 volts at peak current.
>>
>> So, if you drop a 5U4 in place of a 5AR4 - expect to lose 60 to 70 volts
> DC
>> straight off the B+.
>>
>> Also, the 5AR4 is rated to work reliably with a large filter cap on the
>> cathodes ( 60 uF) compared to the 5U4 ( 40uF).
>>
>> So the proposed sub is bad news all around.
>>
>
> Considering that the vacuum tube rectifier was the first tube to be
> eliminated (in receiving sets at least), why not replace it with a
> semiconductor diode circuit? What effect would it have on the
> amplifier's sound?
>
>
> +++++
>
> I totally agree a couple of 1N4007 and sag Rs would be fine by me but we
> are
> talking musos here and the "valve sound" would magically dissappear. Of
> course if I told them nothing about swapping to SS, the valve sound would
> not disappear - strange old world isn't it.

I'd go for 2x 4007's in series to be on the safe side - not forgetting equal
value x-class capacitors in parallel with each diode to damp & equalise any
spikes.

As well as an added sag resistor, you need to make sure each rectifier path
is protected by a fuse, when silicon rectifiers fail short circuit - they do
it for keeps.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 4:36 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Ian Field"
>
>
> I'd go for 2x 4007's in series to be on the safe side - not forgetting
> equal value x-class capacitors in parallel with each diode to damp &
> equalise any spikes.

** Quite unnecessary - any voltage spikes are clamped by the first filter
cap.

Class X caps are more likely to fail than 1N4007 diodes are.

> As well as an added sag resistor,

** Not essential - there will be only 30 volts increase in the B+.

> you need to make sure each rectifier path is protected by a fuse,

** Absolutely un-necessary.

> when silicon rectifiers fail short circuit - they do it for keeps.

** So what?

The AC supply fuse will blow immediately.

You are obviously not very familiar with valve guitar amps.

.... Phil

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, May 26 2011 12:24 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ian Field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:SXaDp.18414$6K4.7746@newsfe14.ams2...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:iriaeb$4jg$1@dont-email.me...
> > spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
> >
news:bd8dbf0e-9a3e-4397-a570-7af6541e38cd@d26g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
> > On May 24, 6:38 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> >> "Arfa Daily"
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> >> What do you think about subbing the 5AR4 with a 5U4?
> >>
> >> > Never tried it, but looking at the specs, they look rather different
> > from
> >> > one another, see -
> >>
> >> >http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0997.htm
> >>
> >> >http://www.r-type.org/exhib/aaa0504.htm
> >>
> >> ** Useless info.
> >>
> >> The big difference between the 5AR4 and the 5U4 is in amount of voltage
> > drop
> >> across each diode when conducting.
> >>
> >> The 5AR4 is uses an indirectly heated cathode, close coupled to each
> >> plate
> >> and the voltage drop is very low, about 35 volts at 700mA peak.
> >>
> >> The 5U4 uses a directly heated cathode with lotsa space between the
> >> plates
> >> and the cathodes - so there is a much bigger drop in voltage, more like
> >> 100 volts at peak current.
> >>
> >> So, if you drop a 5U4 in place of a 5AR4 - expect to lose 60 to 70
volts
> > DC
> >> straight off the B+.
> >>
> >> Also, the 5AR4 is rated to work reliably with a large filter cap on the
> >> cathodes ( 60 uF) compared to the 5U4 ( 40uF).
> >>
> >> So the proposed sub is bad news all around.
> >>
> >
> > Considering that the vacuum tube rectifier was the first tube to be
> > eliminated (in receiving sets at least), why not replace it with a
> > semiconductor diode circuit? What effect would it have on the
> > amplifier's sound?
> >
> >
> > +++++
> >
> > I totally agree a couple of 1N4007 and sag Rs would be fine by me but we
> > are
> > talking musos here and the "valve sound" would magically dissappear. Of
> > course if I told them nothing about swapping to SS, the valve sound
would
> > not disappear - strange old world isn't it.
>
>
> I'd go for 2x 4007's in series to be on the safe side - not forgetting
equal
> value x-class capacitors in parallel with each diode to damp & equalise
any
> spikes.
>
> As well as an added sag resistor, you need to make sure each rectifier
path
> is protected by a fuse, when silicon rectifiers fail short circuit - they
do
> it for keeps.
>
>

As for sag R I tried 50R and 100R and a couple of GZ34 on Avo CT160 tester
set for 120mA per anode.
each GZ34 showed the usual 75 percent "goodness" .
4007s and 100R showed 70 percent
4007s and 50R, 10W showed 75 percent

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, May 26 2011 12:30 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Arfa Daily"

>
> I've had a number of GZ34s fail short circuit, or suffer from serious
> flashover, and knock out fuses over the years, but I've always put this
> down to saggy filaments or whatever, where the valves are mounted
> horizontally, or upside down.

** GZ34s have an indirectly heated cathode - just like most other valves.

Sooo, the cathode is a solid tube of metal, with a heater wire inside it.

Ergo - it simply cannot sag.

Only directly heated cathode types do that

- like 5Y3s, 5U4s, 5AS4s etc.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Update: Icom IC-7000 Low UHF Output Power
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/540e476233475a85?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 4:35 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi,

Months ago, I posted here regarding an Icom IC-7000 transceiver with
low output power on UHF (440MHZ).

I replaced Q401 (PA), RD60HUF1, a MOSFET device, and that fixed the
problem. Now I have full output power when I transmit on the 440MHZ band.

Note: I ordered it from "RF Parts".

John N3AOF

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 7:58 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 25 May 2011 07:35:42 -0400, jaugustine@verizon.net wrote:

> Months ago, I posted here regarding an Icom IC-7000 transceiver with
>low output power on UHF (440MHZ).
>
> I replaced Q401 (PA), RD60HUF1, a MOSFET device, and that fixed the
>problem. Now I have full output power when I transmit on the 440MHZ band.
>
> Note: I ordered it from "RF Parts".
>
> John N3AOF

Nicely done but 7 months to find the problem? Well, I guess it was
semi functional on UHF during that time, so there was no urgency.

Gloating slightly:
<http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/540bc77a9c4d99cc>
Inside PA board photos of another IC-7000:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/Icom IC-7000/>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: AM/FM radio troubleshooting
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e2ca200c549afdd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 5:37 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On May 23, 11:00 am, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 22, 11:10 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> > "spamtrap1888"
>
> > >http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>
> > How do you tune the radio in that schematic?
>
> > ** Like any receiver that uses a crystal oscillator.
>
> >    By swapping the crystal.
>
> >    Ask anyone with a RC model.
>
> > .....  Phil
>
> So meatplow's proffered schematic is even more spectacularly
> inappropriate to the OP's situation -- trouble shooting a nine-
> transistor AM-FM radio from 1970. Which, as I recall, likely used a
> variable capacitor for tuning.
>
> Googling shows a schematic of the Transistor 305 is available for
> purchase on radiomuseum.org

I actually have the book with this radio. It has a schematic but comes
up somewhat short when it comes to voltages and waveforms. And the
intermittent nature of the problem makes it so hard to troubleshoot.
The other night it played on my bench for over ten hours. It never
failed and sounded fine. I finally went over and tuned the FM to a few
other stations and they seemed to sound OK. I then switched to AM and
although I did hear some stations, it being late evening I would have
expected to hear much more. But I wasn't sure about this as the shop
is in the basement. I tuned the AM between 550KHZ and 1600KHZ at which
point the radio suddenly quit. The tuning capacitor is not the issue.
And the switches don't appear to be noisy either. The scenario about
tuning the AM and the set quitting seems a bit of a stretch to be a
coincidence but then I just don't know. Anyone have any theories on if
this might be a small clue here? Thanks for following this thread,
Lenny

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 6:19 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On May 25, 7:37 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On May 23, 11:00 am, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 22, 11:10 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> > > "spamtrap1888"
>
> > > >http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>
> > > How do you tune the radio in that schematic?
>
> > > ** Like any receiver that uses a crystal oscillator.
>
> > >    By swapping the crystal.
>
> > >    Ask anyone with a RC model.
>
> > > .....  Phil
>
> > So meatplow's proffered schematic is even more spectacularly
> > inappropriate to the OP's situation -- trouble shooting a nine-
> > transistor AM-FM radio from 1970. Which, as I recall, likely used a
> > variable capacitor for tuning.
>
> > Googling shows a schematic of the Transistor 305 is available for
> > purchase on radiomuseum.org
>
> I actually have the book with this radio. It has a schematic but comes
> up somewhat short when it comes to voltages and waveforms. And the
> intermittent nature of the problem makes it so hard to troubleshoot.
> The other night it played on my bench for over ten hours. It never
> failed and sounded fine. I finally went over and tuned the FM to a few
> other stations and they seemed to sound OK. I then switched to AM and
> although I did hear some stations, it being late evening I would have
> expected to hear much more. But I wasn't sure about this as the shop
> is in the basement. I tuned the AM between 550KHZ and 1600KHZ at which
> point the radio suddenly quit. The tuning capacitor is not the issue.
> And the switches don't appear to be noisy either. The scenario about
> tuning the AM and the set quitting seems a bit of a stretch to be a
> coincidence but then I just don't know. Anyone have any theories on if
> this might be a small clue here? Thanks for following this thread,
> Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Put a scope on the output of the mixer and keep it there until the
radio dies, and see if that first stage still is working. Do this one
stage at a time until you find which stage is the problem. Have you
tried heating the radio to induce the failure, you don't mention
trying that?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wall Warts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de407a5056a54ee0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 6:10 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On May 25, 1:02 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 24 May 2011 22:36:26 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com>
> wrote:
>
> This is much too easy...
>
> Skil 9.6v 92950 Battery Charger Repair 9.6 volt- 92955
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/200454895811>
> $13 plus $6 shipping.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

But the OP needs to know that none of the cells are shorted before he
goes any further, that requires trying to charge the cells for a few
minutes and then measuring the voltage at the drill. The voltage
should be 8x1.2V = 9.6V or slightly higher. If the voltage is not at
that level, then one or more cells in the drill are shorted and no
charger is going to fix that. You can blast the shorted cell by
putting it across a very large charged capacitor if you take the drill
apart and measure each cell individually, but even then the cell is
likely to redevelop a short unless it is kept on a charger almost
continually.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 7:17 am
From: Archon

On 5/23/2011 4:54 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
>
> I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.
>
> The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a slight
> bulge and outputs 0v.
>
> I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v, 300 mA,
> splice the wires, plug it in to see if it will charge. It will, but it heats
> up a bunch, enough to burn my fingers a little.
>
> Are there any guidelines for substituting these things? I'd like to keep the drill,
> but can hardly afford to burn the house down. :-)
>
> Thx,
> P
>
> "Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
>
Recall on the charger, though not much good if the battery is knackered.

http://store.boschpowertoolsource.com/skil9296vwar1.html

JC

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 12:07 pm
From: Puddin' Man

On Tue, 24 May 2011 22:36:26 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

>Start by using an ohms-guesser on the charger base. Cut the cord. Is
>there DC continuity between the two wires and the contacts on the
>charger base? If there's a measurable resistance, then the charger
>base has either a resistor, or complexicated charge controller in the
>base.

The + side measures 3 ohms.

>I would therefore guess(tm) that the wall wart is just a simple
>wall wart with nothing more complex than a thermal fuse inside.
>However, if there is DC continuity between the leads and the battery
>terminal connections, then the charge controller is inside the wall
>wart, and a simple replacement isn't going to work.
>
>Since the power supply is obviously blown and useless, tearing it
>apart should reveal if there's anything inside. You'll probably find
>a thermal fuse. If it's blown, just replace it with a similar thermal
>fuse, glue the case back together, and continue charging. However, if
>there's a series resistor inside (which is what I suspect), then use
>the 12V adapter, add a similar resistor in series, measure the
>charging current, and see if it's reasonable 0.1C. If not, adjust the
>resistor value for 0.1C charging current.
>
>>>My guess(tm) is you should have a mess of AA size
>>>NiCd batteries inside the drill, which are usually rated at 750ma-hr.
>>>Using the 0.1C rule, that would be a charging current of about 75ma
>>>max.
>>
>>It's evidently all original: charger is 92950, power pack is 92955,
>>and is a *sealed* unit. I see no way to take it apart.
>>
>>Am I missing something here?
>
>Most chargers and charging bases are solvent welded together. They
>can usually be cracked open with brute force. Place a masons chisel
>along the glue line, and beat on it with a hammer. The glue line
>should crack as the plastic bends. If not, just use a hack saw to saw
>along the glue line. Do the repair, and then glue the case back
>together.

Thanks for this opportunity for taking revenge on the offending WW. :-)

After freezing, it cracked open easily, but I see no fuse.
Apologies for lack of quality of pix:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/231/skilwallwart1.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/skilwallwart2.jpg/

Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 3:57 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 25 May 2011 14:07:41 -0500, Puddin' Man
<puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote:

>The + side measures 3 ohms.

Ok. There may be a diode inside the base. Try reversing the leads on
the ohms-guesser and see if it acts like a diode.

>Thanks for this opportunity for taking revenge on the offending WW. :-)

Learn by Destroying(tm). If you haven't destroyed it and fixed it,
you don't understand it.

>After freezing, it cracked open easily, but I see no fuse.
>Apologies for lack of quality of pix:
>
>http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/231/skilwallwart1.jpg/
>http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/skilwallwart2.jpg/

Yech. I can't see anything in there. Fix the focus. Is there any
manner of diode, resitor, charge controller, PCB, pilot lamp (current
regulator), or thermal fuse inside? If not, it's an ordinary AC
xformer. Also, no points for covering the xformer with the burned
insulating material, so I can't see anything.

If AC only, then there's the usual problem of what voltage to get.
Peak voltage on a single diode is 1.414 * AC voltage. If there's no
series resistor, and just a diode in the base unit, then my guess(tm)
is that you should be looking for a 7.5VAC wall wart. Again, you'll
need to measure the charging current and check for 0.1C current to be
sure you got it right. Of course, make sure you don't have a shorted
battery pack.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Are faulty APC UPS's easy repairs or is it throw in the trash?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/afd84408acb5d795?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 6:28 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On May 19, 1:49 pm, Cydrome Leader <prese...@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:
> Stephen <i.want.s...@spam.com> wrote:
> > Hi, I have two faulty APC BackUPS CS500's each with a different fault.
>
> > The first unit will switch to battery when there is a power cut. However,
> > when the power is restored, it will not switch back to mains power, it
> > remains on the battery till it goes flat.
>
> > The 2nd one will not power up when pressing the on/off button on the front
> > of the unit.
>
> > I have a third working identicial UPS and I have tried the battery out of
> > this one in the two faulty units and its NOT the battery.
>
> > Are these likely to be an easy repair or shall I flog them on Ebay for
> > spares?
>
> I've never found it worthwhile to fix a UPS, but the first one may have
> some hope. Is there a bad relay?

I replaced the battery in my ES350 unit after 10 years and it works
fine until I connect the serial bus to the computer, then the computer
is told there is a power failure and shuts down after two minutes. So
now I just run the APC without the serial bus, I figure if power fails
while I am using the computer I will know it and can shut it down
manuallly. I don't run the computer except when I am actually there
so I don't need the automatic shutdown enabled anyway.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 7:38 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 25 May 2011 06:28:24 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

>I replaced the battery in my ES350 unit after 10 years and it works
>fine until I connect the serial bus to the computer, then the computer
>is told there is a power failure and shuts down after two minutes. So
>now I just run the APC without the serial bus, I figure if power fails
>while I am using the computer I will know it and can shut it down
>manuallly. I don't run the computer except when I am actually there
>so I don't need the automatic shutdown enabled anyway.

The APC BackUPS ES350 has a USB port, not a serial port. I don't know
if a USB to serial adapter will work. Probably not.

Once installed, the associated PowerChute software does like to have
the USB cable moved from one USB port to another on the computah. Your
descriptions sounds more like a loss of communications than an ES350
failure. APC may have fixed this in later versions of PowerChute.
Try the latest from:
<http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=SFPCPE30>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 7:50 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> The APC BackUPS ES350 has a USB port, not a serial port.
> I don't know if a USB to serial adapter will work. Probably not.

It might. APC used to provide one on request.

My APC BackUPS works under Windows 2000 Pro simply by plugging it into a UPS
port. PowerChute is not needed.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 8:24 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 25 May 2011 07:50:30 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> The APC BackUPS ES350 has a USB port, not a serial port.
>> I don't know if a USB to serial adapter will work. Probably not.
>
>It might. APC used to provide one on request.
>
>My APC BackUPS works under Windows 2000 Pro simply by plugging it into a UPS
>port. PowerChute is not needed.

The Windoze built in UPS software is rather crude. It's been a while
since I tried using it so things may have improved. It will correctly
shut down the computah after a fixed interval if the power fails.
However, it only recognizes serial port interfaces, not USB.

I've also seen some odd problems where the UPS continues to run with
no load after the computah is shut down. The APC SmartUPS has a "soft
shutown" command to prevent running the battery into the ground:
<http://grox.net/man/ups/apcsmart.html>

The BackUPS is tricky. It won't run without a load. So, when the
computah is turned off by the software, the load allegedly disappears,
causing the BackUPS to shut down. However, if you plug anything else
into the "protected" outlets, this trick won't work.

On XP SP3, it's in:
Control Panel -> Power Options -> UPS
It says "Developed by APC for Microsoft" with a link to:
<http://winupgrade.apcc.com>
for an upgrade to PowerChute.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 8:38 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:va6qt610f0rp3sgq04pa652bvfli9f2e20@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 25 May 2011 07:50:30 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> The APC BackUPS ES350 has a USB port, not a serial port.
>>> I don't know if a USB to serial adapter will work. Probably not.

> > It might. APC used to provide one on request.

>> My APC BackUPS works under Windows 2000 Pro simply by
>> plugging it into a UPSport. PowerChute is not needed.

> The Windoze built-in UPS software is rather crude. It's been a while
> since I tried using it, so things may have improved. It will correctly
> shut down the computah after a fixed interval if the power fails.
> However, it only recognizes serial-port interfaces, not USB.

I double-checked after my previous post. The APC unit /is/ plugged into a
mainboard USB port. You need a cable with an RJ-type connector on one end.

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, May 25 2011 6:24 pm
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