sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* three pin multi colour led to two pin led - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2426227629ec773?hl=en
* Name of plug in US - 10 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7b21b0c6fd7afc7?hl=en
* Identification of components - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5538d8951f8ddc23?hl=en
* Old style filament lamps? - 6 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
* Video cassette - topology question - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
* Vietnamese Marshall - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
* Ganged Pots - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ed76e380cee9ebeb?hl=en
* click - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1140735e7723cc3a?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: three pin multi colour led to two pin led
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f2426227629ec773?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 2:56 pm
From: David Nebenzahl


On 4/28/2011 2:29 PM tom spake thus:

> Thanks for the replies. There's a schematic on the board and it looks
> like this. http://tinypic.com/r/29ynsrq/7 Currently the top three
> connections are being used for the led.

IF the 3-pin LED is what's at the top of that schematic, then yes, you
can easily replace it with TWO leds connected as shown. (The three-pin
device is simply two separate LEDs in one package with a common cathode.)

I wouldn't mess with trying to replace this with a single LED. You never
answered the question: why are you doing this?


--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Name of plug in US
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7b21b0c6fd7afc7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:02 pm
From: mm


On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 22:48:26 +0100, "Stephen" <i.want.spam@spam.com>
wrote:

>I can assure you that PAL refers to an analogue broadcast standard.

No one doubts that. It's also a DVD standard too iiuc.

> What the
>Americans call a "PAL connector" is really strictly speaking a Belling Lee.

I think it can be two things at the same time, and it's hard to be
just a Belling Lee when I for one had never heard of such a thing. I'm
sure that's true of many people who sell them in the US too.
>
>It sounds like "PAL connector has become everyday language in USA, just
>like "Hoover"

Hoover means vacuum cleaner in some other countries, but in the US
it's just another brand. Gerber means baby food in general some
places.

>or "Xerox" whereas strictly speakign they are vacuum cleaner
>and photocopier respectively.

Xerox does indeed mean photocopy here. I think a small part of my
jaunt in law school dealt with trademarks, but I've always thought the
rule was backwards from what it should be. If people use xerox as a
synonym for photocopy, that should strengthen the trademark and not
weaken it. Then the Xerox company, or the Scotch tape company
wouldn't have to waste their efforts defending their name, except in
advertising for another brand.

But when someone actually uses a Xerox machine or real Scotch tape,
making them call it Scotch brand tape or Xerox brand photocopying
seems silly.

And if someone on the news, for example, said the company released a
xerox of some document, just assume they used a real Xerox machine or
something living up to its standards.

Just my rant.
>
>Here in Great Britain, the F- connector is used for connecting satellite
>dishes to the recievers or by the cable TV networks.
>
>I persoanlly prefer F connector to Belling Lee as the latter can easily fall
>out of the socket whereas F connectors dont.
>
>Stephen.
>
>
>"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
>news:slrnirovu4.5ui.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
>> Stephen wrote:
>>> PAL refers to the type of analogueTV standard rather than he type of
>>> connector
>>
>> Not in the US. They were called PAL connectors because only PAL TV sets
>> and
>> VCR's used them. They were only sold in shops which catered to foreign
>> tourists, Indians and saliors. All three of which bought them in the US
>> because of the low taxes and then took or sent them "home".
>>
>> Over the years I've referred to F connecters as NTSC connectors when
>> someone
>> called the Belling-Lee ones PAL connectors, but no one got the joke. :-(
>>
>> Geoff.
>>
>> --
>> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
>> Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.
>>
>

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:58 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 10:33:01 -0700, "Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Thanks. I've got a dual tuner card from a thrift shop that has those connectors,
>so you've just helped me out too.

Y'er welcome. I had never heard of Belling-Lee connectors until some
friends arrived from UK with "universal" AM/FM/TV/SW contrivance that
did PAL, NTSC, and SECAM all in one box. I wanted to see how well it
worked, but when I tried to plug in a test cable, I couldn't find a
connector that would fit. The manual was useless. The local shopping
mall travel store was helpful. They allowed me to dig through their
collection of connectors, where I found one as part of a very
expensive adapter kit. A few photos and a dumb question in one of the
travel forums generated the necessary info. However, I didn't want to
wait for an adapter, so I made my own from some brass tubing and an F
connector.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:42 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"The Ghost in The Machine"

THE ONES IN THE PIX ARE BNC CONNECTORS,

** Wrong.


== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:42 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"The Ghost in The Machine"


OOPS!!! ON SECOND VIEWING THE ONE IN THE PIX IS USING CLASSY RCA
PLUGS,

** Wrong again.


== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:44 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Chris S." wrote:
>
> "Man-wai Chang" <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:iph4j9$4at$1@dont-email.me...
> >> We may both be wrong..
> >> They look like RCA But they are in fact imports used on Antenna
> >> Connections to Signal Amplifiers.
> >
> > It's the TV antennae cable plug being used in Hong Kong, which was ruled
> > by UK before 1997. It's not RCA, the pin is shorter.
> >
> > I wanna know the TECHNICAL name of that plug design.
> >
>
> Isn't it just a push-on non threaded F Connector?


No. It is a European TV antenna connector. They weren't used for
anything in the US, except on equipment brought in by foreigners. Some
referred to it as a PAL connector in the US,


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:53 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 19:39:47 +0800, Man-wai Chang
> <toylet.toylet@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Tex-Coaxial-Aerial-Cable-White/dp/B003S46D06/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1304163450&sr=8-10
>
> Belling-Lee connector or IEC 169-2 connector
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TV_aerial_plug>
>
> >What's the name of the plugs in USA?
> >It seems that USA televisions only use F Type connectors.
>
> Belling-Lee connetors are not used in the USA. We use F connectors
> and RCA connectors for TV RF:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_connector>
> However, not all the F connector plugs are threaded as in "quick
> connect" or "push on" connectors that simply slide over the threads.

The push on connectors were the 'G' series, and designed to be
matable with the 'F' series. Most places selling them are absolutely
clueless, like selling DE9 connectors as DB9. Mass marketing to, for
and by idiots. :(


> Adapters are available:
> <http://www.dealextreme.com/p/belling-lee-pal-tv-antenna-plug-to-f-cable-connectors-2-pack-18356>


If you want real fun, try to buy a 'HN' connector over the counter at
a wholesaler. ;-)


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 8:10 pm
From: The Daring Dufas


On 4/30/2011 4:34 PM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
> The Daring Dufas wrote:
>> I've also heard them called "British Naval Connectors".
>
> In England some people joke that it stands for "Brand New Connector" and
> the later TNC stands for "Terribly New Connector". :-)
>
> Geoff
>

I first wrote "Navel" but changed it when I figured no one might get the
joke. ^_^

TDD


== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 8:19 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 22:53:28 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

> The push on connectors were the 'G' series, and designed to be
>matable with the 'F' series.

Not exactly. The "G" series was contrived to provide a connector
suitable for passing up to 15A of current. The cable companies have
always powered line amps from DC on the cable. That was fine with
semi-rigid coax and compression connectors that could handle the
current. However, when the amps shrank in size, a newer smaller
connector was needed. That was the Type G connector.
<http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/typeg.asp?N=0&sid=4DBB51003571617F&>

>Most places selling them are absolutely
>clueless, like selling DE9 connectors as DB9. Mass marketing to, for
>and by idiots. :(

Well, lets see what Google can offer. Searching for DE9, I get
70,100,000 hits, while DB9 returns 8,830,000 hits. So about 12% are
clueless.

Actually, it should be DE9S or DE9P, but that's being picky.

> If you want real fun, try to buy a 'HN' connector over the counter at
>a wholesaler. ;-)

<http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/hn.asp?N=0&sid=4DBB510041D4E17F&>
Hi-V. I've never seen or used one. There are plenty of other obscure
connectors.

The RF industry is full of specialized connectors. There was one
connector found on many wireless cards where I couldn't find a mating
plug. It turned out that there wasn't a mating plug. It was a test
connector with a conical entry.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/WG511.jpg>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 11:17 pm
From: Rich Grise


mm wrote:
> On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 18:23:18 +0100, "Stephen" <i.want.spam@spam.com>
>
>>PAL refers to the type of analogueTV standard rather than he type of
>>connector
>>
>>There are at least three analogue TV broadcast systems, PAL, (Phase
>>Alternate Line), NTSC (National Television Standards Committee) and SECAM
>>(a variant of PAL where the audio and colour is carried in a different
>>way)
>>
>>Belling Lee is a connector standard, nothing to do with PAL so its a
>>mistake on the website.
>
> And for that matter, BNC twist on, so why are they in this discussion
> at all (in other posts)? I just learned that B stands for bayonet.

I once had a salesman tell me it simply means "Bayonet Connector";
presumably the BN is BayoNet, as in TTY for TeleTYpe. :-)

Cheers!
Rich

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 11:18 pm
From: Rich Grise


Phil Allison wrote:
> "The Ghost in The Machine"
>
> OOPS!!! ON SECOND VIEWING THE ONE IN THE PIX IS USING CLASSY RCA
> PLUGS,
>
> ** Wrong again.

Well, they looked like audiophool-grade RCAs to me; if not, then what
ARE they, or are you just having another tantrum?

Thanks,
Rich


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Identification of components
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5538d8951f8ddc23?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:13 pm
From: Franc Zabkar


On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 04:39:20 -0700 (PDT), Chairman WAPSAC
<chairman.wpsac@gmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>I have a number of components on a board that I am trying to identify and was wondering if anyone can help with this. These are all SMDs on a underwater camera strobe (Sea & Sea YS-27DX)

>Transistor with markings HQ and then vertically 1E

http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/hq

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:21 pm
From: Meat Plow


On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 02:17:14 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

> Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes,
> But they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here
> and over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As
> indeed prompted the OP to make his post ...

Lots of things I don't like I had to adapt to because they were NLA or
not practical. I feel lucky at this point to afford electricity 24 hours
a day.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse


== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:43 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com


On Apr 29, 4:50 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
>
> news:91v54rFr3mU1@mid.individual.net...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Terry Pinnell"
> >> "Arfa Daily"
>
> >>>Maybe you can't see anything wrong with them, and they suit your eyes,
> >>>But
> >>>they are no good for me on both counts. I, and many others both here and
> >>>over there, *can* see their deficiencies, and don't like them. As indeed
> >>>prompted the OP to make his post ...
>
> >> Arfa: Agreed. My feelings exactly.
>
> > ** Arfa has admitted to being colour blind.
>
> > So you are too -  it seems.
>
> > Have trouble with 1% resistor codes do we???
>
> > 12% of all males are colour blind - ie they fail one of the basic tests.
>
> > Only 1 or 2% of females are so afflicted  -  but THEY are the CARRIERS  !
>
> > ....  Phil
>
> Yes indeed - I am colour blind, and if that is what makes the difference
> between someone who does have an issue with CFLs, and someone who doesn't,
> then 12%  - one eighth -  of the population being forced to suffer because
> of this legislation, seems a pretty poor show of arrogance by the powers
> that be, in insisting that we suffer in the way that we are being made to
> ...
>
> Arfa

They want 'equality' - so now you're all equally miserable. Coming
soon to this side of the pond.


== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 3:44 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sat, 30 Apr 2011 03:18:52 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>Suppose a 100W-equivalent CFL that draws 25W lasts only 1000 hours. In that
>time you save 75kWh. At 10 cents per kWh, that's $7.50 -- three times the
>cost of the bulb.

$0.10 per kw-hr is subsidized (baseline) electricity. A tolerable
average for domestic electricity is about $0.19 per kw-hr and about
$0.28 per kw-hr for commerical electricity. The highest rate for
commerical power shown is about $0.45 per kw-hr
<http://www.pge.com/about/rates/>

Throw in the cost of manufacture, cost of packaging, cost of replacing
the heat produced by the incandescent lamp in winter, and CFL looks
even worse. Light reading:
<http://www.greenmuze.com/blogs/guest-bloggers/1031-the-dark-side-of-cfls.html>
Some of the above is more than a little alarmist and paranoid, but
still interesting. For example, it takes 16 times as much energy to
produce a CFL bulb, but at $0.17 per kw-hr, the difference is cost is
negligible.

On the base of all my CFL bulbs, I scribble in pencil the date it was
installed. I've been doing this for about 10 years. I have yet to
see a CFL bulb that I use every day last more than about 3 years. CFL
bulbs that point down last maybe a year. However, I still have one 40
watt desk lamp bulb that is about 30 years old. Unfortunately, the
piece of paper that I was scribbling the results has disappeared. If I
find it, I'll post my numbers.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 6:37 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker is Wrong Again"
>
> Suppose a 100W-equivalent CFL that draws 25W lasts only 1000 hours. In
> that
> time you save 75kWh. At 10 cents per kWh, that's $7.50 -- three times the
> cost of the bulb.


** A CLF that genuinely replaces a 100W bulb cost at lot more than $2.50
where I live.

Even a "no brand" 27W CFL ( direct from China import ) sells for $ 8 to
$10 each.

I worked out long ago that the break even point for a CFL occurs at about
1000 hours - but only about half of them make it that long ,without dying
or losing almost half their light output.


.... Phil

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:51 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> "William Sommerwanker is Wrong Again"

Wrong.


>> Suppose a 100W-equivalent CFL that draws 25W lasts only 1000 hours. In
>> that
>> time you save 75kWh. At 10 cents per kWh, that's $7.50 -- three times the
>> cost of the bulb.

> ** A CLF that genuinely replaces a 100W bulb cost at lot more than $2.50
> where I live.

Well, it doesn't where I live. So who's wrong?
Even if the bulb cost $5, you'd still be ahead.


== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 8:06 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker is a Lying Cunt "
>
>
>>> Suppose a 100W-equivalent CFL that draws 25W lasts only 1000 hours. In
>>> that
>>> time you save 75kWh. At 10 cents per kWh, that's $7.50 -- three times
>>> the
>>> cost of the bulb.
>
>> ** A CLF that genuinely replaces a 100W bulb cost at lot more than $2.50
>> where I live.
>
> Well, it doesn't where I live.

** Blatant lie.

And STOP SNIPPING people's cases out of sight - you FUCKHEAD !!!!!!!


** A CLF that genuinely replaces a 100W bulb cost at lot more than $2.50
where I live.

Even a "no brand" 27W CFL ( direct from China import ) sells for $ 8 to
$10 each.

I worked out long ago that the break even point for a CFL occurs at about
1000 hours - but only about half of them make it that long ,without dying
or losing almost half their light output.

.... Phil


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Video cassette - topology question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 4:04 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com


On Apr 25, 2:05 pm, Meat Plow <mhywa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 08:16:01 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> >>> Mr Cook, your writing is often unclear. You sometimes write as if
> >>> English were not your native language. You need to learn to write more
> >>> clearly.
>
> >> As I understood him, he asked if videocassette tape was meant to have a
> >> half- (or greater) twist. Or, by extension, should it lay untwisted
> >> like an audiotape, whether open reel or cassette.
>
> > Thanks.
>
> > The answer, of course, is untwisted.
>
> Oh that's what he said. Well crap, it's simply logic that tells you tapes
> should not be twisted.
>
> --
> Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

Unless it somehow managed to get over the top of the hub (EXTREMELY
unlikely), any twist in the tape will have a reverse 'mate' so that it
all cancels out. That portion will be so mangled that it might make
more sense to cut out the damage and splice it. I've been repairing
broadcast VTRs and the occasional tape and have never seen tape
slipping over the top of the hub inside of the cassette.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 7:00 pm
From: "Phil Allison"


"Arfa Daily"
>>
>>>> ** You can send them to " rode@sound.au.com " if you like.
>>
>>> Done.
>>
>> ** Thanks.
>>
>> I'll let you know if they are for the same amp.
>
> OK. Noted.
>

** I have all the schems now and they are certainly for the same amp.

Only thing I can spot different is that 630mA HT fuse shown in the output of
the bridge rectifier where I see it fitted in the AC input. Makes no
difference to the rms current flow in the part.

.....Phil


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ganged Pots
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ed76e380cee9ebeb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 8:03 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> The old electronic parts catalogs used to have stackable components for
> adding pots (and switches) in almost any configuration, but I haven't seen
> 'em for quite a few years.


The were made by Centralab, which is a long gone brand. The were
called: 'Centralab Fastatch II Build A Pot' I have a few parts left,
but not the catalog that told you what worked with what, and the BOM for
various OEM pots.

http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/Cef.html list what little I
have left, and I don't even know where they are, right now.


> If any suppliers still make those components, I suppose the vintage/tube
> equipment repair/restoration folks would know.


You don't want to use one of those for anything more than two gang.
They were already flimsy feeling at two stage. They were expensive and
hard to get, when they were in production.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 9:02 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 16:07:55 -0700, Pilgrim <pilgrim@noemail.net>
wrote:

>Allen Bradley used to make "Mod Pots". Didn't some one else pick up this
>line after they stopped? What value/s do you need? I have some new old
>stock.

Please Google for "modular potentiometer" and you'll find that Cermet,
Vishay, Alpha (Taiwan), and probably some others, make them. For
example:
<http://www.potentiometers.com/series389.cfm>

On the other foot, I have had considerable difficulties with such
ganged pots in various pieces of equipment. I have several Radio
Shock scanners with them, that are worn out and have "dead" spots. My
ancient Wavetek 3000B service monitor many of these that are all
intermittent. I've had limited success drilling a tiny hole in the
side, and injecting contact cleaner.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 9:29 pm
From: spamtrap1888


On Apr 30, 8:03 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Wild_Bill wrote:
>
> > The old electronic parts catalogs used to have stackable components for
> > adding pots (and switches) in almost any configuration, but I haven't seen
> > 'em for quite a few years.
>
>    The were made by Centralab, which is a long gone brand. The were
> called: 'Centralab Fastatch II Build A Pot'  I have a few parts left,
> but not the catalog that told you what worked with what, and the BOM for
> various OEM pots.
>
>    http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/Cef.htmllist what little I
> have left, and I don't even know where they are, right now.
>
> > If any suppliers still make those components, I suppose the vintage/tube
> > equipment repair/restoration folks would know.
>
>    You don't want to use one of those for anything more than two gang.
> They were already flimsy feeling at two stage.  They were expensive and
> hard to get, when they were in production.

When I saw triple ganged pots (not modular) back in the day, they were
always T-pads. I wonder if pots with 10K elements from the same
product line could be cannibalized to turn a T-pad into what the op
wanted.


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, May 1 2011 12:28 am
From: "N_Cook"


Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:8lkpr69c3bmtb8ojr1n04rakpo2uq9ve6p@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 16:07:55 -0700, Pilgrim <pilgrim@noemail.net>
> wrote:
>
> >Allen Bradley used to make "Mod Pots". Didn't some one else pick up this
> >line after they stopped? What value/s do you need? I have some new old
> >stock.
>
> Please Google for "modular potentiometer" and you'll find that Cermet,
> Vishay, Alpha (Taiwan), and probably some others, make them. For
> example:
> <http://www.potentiometers.com/series389.cfm>
>
> On the other foot, I have had considerable difficulties with such
> ganged pots in various pieces of equipment. I have several Radio
> Shock scanners with them, that are worn out and have "dead" spots. My
> ancient Wavetek 3000B service monitor many of these that are all
> intermittent. I've had limited success drilling a tiny hole in the
> side, and injecting contact cleaner.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Where the track is not too bad , just worn in arcs.
Bend, out or in, whichever direction has most fresh track,
the wiper blade/blades, to use a different
part of track. If the wiper support can be wedged
away from the track then bend the wiper to give more
contact force. If limited access then 2 needle points one about where the
wiper starts
to bend and then at the wiper/s themselved , on the other side and against
one another
force in some more wiper tension. To do this with dual pots , usually the
central one is not
acessible. With a Dremmel and .5mm grinding disc, cut 2 or 3 slots in the
screening can ,
enough to bend outwards and gain some space. Bend back afterwards and glue
over the cuts.
If the rivets have slackened on the
paxolin then squash with an old pair of basic red/blue/yellow single
action crimp pliers. To get to the wiper rivet
grind down the the interfering bulges a bit between the
red and blue sections of the crimp tool.

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TOPIC: click
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1140735e7723cc3a?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 30 2011 10:47 pm
From: DINESH PATIL


http://123maza.com/65/born511/


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