sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Name of plug in US
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7b21b0c6fd7afc7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, May 1 2011 11:05 pm
From: Roy Quijano

On May 2, 1:24 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> John Fields wrote:
>
> > On Sun, 1 May 2011 14:18:38 -0700 (PDT), The Ghost in The Machine
> > <proteus...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > >WE DONT CARE FOR YOUR INPUT.
>
> > ---
> > "We"???
>
> > What group of loons has enjoined you as their spokesman?
>
> Roy and all his dirty, crack smoking sock puppets:
>
> Roy J Quijano
> 415 E 151st St
> Bronx, NY 10455(718) 292-1943
>
> He's the reason for my current sigfile.
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

You dirty low down Lying Libelous creep I've never done crack and I my
friends are not crackheads.
You're the one responsible for all the flaming going on...and the
author of several criminally abusive trolls.

Pray the charges I filed go though, in the long run you will be better
off than if Divine Justice gets you.

You Pathetic Cyberstalking Coward!
Go ahead bring your foolish fat face and confront me at my place.
We'll see who's wrong...you filthy flaming sack of nothingness.

Mr. Roy Quijano
Electrical Electronic Technician
Disabled
Bronx, NY USA 10455
"The trouble with some "educated" people is they forget they are but
children in Gods sight.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 12:11 am
From: Josef Moellers

Am 2.5.2011 schrub Jamie:

> Man-wai Chang wrote:
>>> http://rfshop.com.au/Store/tabid/63/List/1/CategoryID/2/Category2ID/55/Category3/other/Level/3/ProductID/2928/Default.aspx
>>>
>>> 2 minutes on google
>>
>>
>> PAL??? Belling Lee?
>>
> IEC 169-2

I found "IEC 60169-2" on
http://www.itwissen.info/definition/lexikon/Antennenstecker-antenna-connector.html
(The text is German, though).

Another search for "IEC 60169-2" led here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_169-2#Belling-Lee

So, "Belling-Lee", as others pointed out, would be correct.

Josef
--
These are my personal views and not those of Fujitsu Technology Solutions!
Josef Möllers (Pinguinpfleger bei FTS)
If failure had no penalty success would not be a prize (T. Pratchett)
Company Details: http://de.ts.fujitsu.com/imprint.html

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 9:45 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

spamtrap1888 wrote:
>
> On May 1, 10:29 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > spamtrap1888 wrote:
>
> > > The problem with both the RCA plug and the Motorola plug, compared to
> > > other coaxial plugs, is that the hot lead makes contact before the
> > > ground does.
> >
> > That's because they were never intended to be plugged in to equipment
> > under power, due to leakage currents in the AC powered equipment. There
> > is a Switchcraft version of the Phono/RCA that has a built in switch to
> > be used hot. It can be wired to short out the connector, until the plug
> > is inserted.
> >
> > Explain want difference it would make on a car radio? that is the
> > only application it was designed for.
>
> A pin connected to a long metal rod, inserted into an amplifier input
> -- what could possibly go wrong?

Nothing that you would understand. Leave electronics to those who
know what they are doing, but practice your pathetic trolling somewhere
else.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ganged Pots
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ed76e380cee9ebeb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 12:19 am
From: "N_Cook"

David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4dbdd297$0$2666$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> On 5/1/2011 12:28 AM N_Cook spake thus:
>
> > Where the track is not too bad , just worn in arcs.
> > Bend, out or in, whichever direction has most fresh track,
> > the wiper blade/blades, to use a different
> > part of track. If the wiper support can be wedged
> > away from the track then bend the wiper to give more
> > contact force. If limited access then 2 needle points one about where
the
> > wiper starts
> > to bend and then at the wiper/s themselved , on the other side and
against
> > one another
> > force in some more wiper tension. To do this with dual pots , usually
the
> > central one is not [...]
>
> [bodgering drivel snipped]
>
> Norm--remind me again to never, ever bring any piece of equipment into
> your shop!
>
>
> --
> The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:
>
> yo
> wassup
> nuttin
> wan2 hang
> k
> where
> here
> k
> l8tr
> by
>
> - from Usenet (what's *that*?)

Thats the nice thing about freedom of choice. You can go to the shop down
the road from me . Pay an upfront 17 GBP and 80 percent of the time and 2
months later, he says he cannot get the replacement part - sorry, no refund.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 9:40 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

N_Cook wrote:
>
> Thats the nice thing about freedom of choice. You can go to the shop down
> the road from me . Pay an upfront 17 GBP and 80 percent of the time and 2
> months later, he says he cannot get the replacement part - sorry, no refund.

At least he's honest that it can't be properly repaired. Most of my
repair work can from people who had been screwed by hacks who patched
things together just long enough to get paid. I either repaired the
item, or told them it wasn't worth the money.

They were all free to chose, and chose wrong the first time.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Analogue meter - suspension repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90fa135e0056f33b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 2:30 am
From: "N_Cook"

Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon, top
and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is soldered
to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable size
phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U springs
are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of the
fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not joined
up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to resolder
to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
anchor farther along than originally.
But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering the
anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of external
spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement. I'm
assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs removed,
or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U with
jigs removed, normal use.
Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame drop,
with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece, when
the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it was
required?

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 3:45 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ipltei$n6j$1@dont-email.me...
> Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon,
> top
> and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is
> soldered
> to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
> passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable
> size
> phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
> solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U springs
> are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of the
> fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not
> joined
> up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to
> resolder
> to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
> anchor farther along than originally.
> But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering the
> anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of
> external
> spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement. I'm
> assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs removed,
> or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U
> with
> jigs removed, normal use.
> Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame
> drop,
> with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece, when
> the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it was
> required?
>
>

A couple of years back, a colleague gave me a professional Ferrograph audio
test set. This has a large format precision meter on the front, which has
the same vertical 'twisty' ribbon as the coil / needle suspension scheme. It
was broken when I got it. As there was little chance of being able to get a
replacement movement, I figured that repair was worth a go. As I recall
(it's been a while ago now) I simply fed the wire back through the hole in
the U-frame and held the frame in tension pushing down on pointy tweezers in
one hand, whilst using the soldering iron in the other hand. I had
pre-tinned both the wire and the frame, and simply bent the end of the wire
over with the tip of the iron, whilst letting a small 'blob' of solder
previously fed onto the iron's tip, flow into the joint. I was absolutely
amazed when I let go of it all, and blew on the pointer. It went from one
end of the scale to the other, as smooth as you like. No issues with
centreing or sensitivity or whatever. I seem to think that I struggled
slightly to get a good zeroing action from the zero offsetting screw in the
perspex cover, but I did manage it in the end. I can't remember why, or how
I got it to zero in the end, but I did, and it has remained correct since.
The unit is in daily use, so it has been an effective and long-lasting
repair.

Make no mistake, it was a delicate and fiddly procedure, with lots of
holding of breath and magnifying glasses and so on, but quite do-able for
the likes of you who enjoys challenges like this. Go for it. You've nothing
to lose.

Arfa

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 4:29 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:ZWvvp.43321$o81.33626@newsfe28.ams2...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ipltei$n6j$1@dont-email.me...
> > Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> > phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon,
> > top
> > and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is
> > soldered
> > to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
> > passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable
> > size
> > phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
> > solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U
springs
> > are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of
the
> > fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not
> > joined
> > up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to
> > resolder
> > to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
> > anchor farther along than originally.
> > But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering
the
> > anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of
> > external
> > spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement.
I'm
> > assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs
removed,
> > or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U
> > with
> > jigs removed, normal use.
> > Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame
> > drop,
> > with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece,
when
> > the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> > Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it
was
> > required?
> >
> >
>
> A couple of years back, a colleague gave me a professional Ferrograph
audio
> test set. This has a large format precision meter on the front, which has
> the same vertical 'twisty' ribbon as the coil / needle suspension scheme.
It
> was broken when I got it. As there was little chance of being able to get
a
> replacement movement, I figured that repair was worth a go. As I recall
> (it's been a while ago now) I simply fed the wire back through the hole in
> the U-frame and held the frame in tension pushing down on pointy tweezers
in
> one hand, whilst using the soldering iron in the other hand. I had
> pre-tinned both the wire and the frame, and simply bent the end of the
wire
> over with the tip of the iron, whilst letting a small 'blob' of solder
> previously fed onto the iron's tip, flow into the joint. I was absolutely
> amazed when I let go of it all, and blew on the pointer. It went from one
> end of the scale to the other, as smooth as you like. No issues with
> centreing or sensitivity or whatever. I seem to think that I struggled
> slightly to get a good zeroing action from the zero offsetting screw in
the
> perspex cover, but I did manage it in the end. I can't remember why, or
how
> I got it to zero in the end, but I did, and it has remained correct since.
> The unit is in daily use, so it has been an effective and long-lasting
> repair.
>
> Make no mistake, it was a delicate and fiddly procedure, with lots of
> holding of breath and magnifying glasses and so on, but quite do-able for
> the likes of you who enjoys challenges like this. Go for it. You've
nothing
> to lose.
>
> Arfa
>

Likewise no chance of a replacement . Reminds me Test Instrument Services,
Totton Hampshire no longer seem to do this and meter rewinds , keeping
ancient ship-bourne engine/generator monitoring meters of the world's
merchant ships going
Certainly a job fully under a x4 or so illuminated inspection lens. This
Sifam one you can rotate suspension anchors at either end , but there is no
user accessible adjustment of zero once the meter scale is set in the
housing.

I think the sensible route would be . A loop of copper wire around each U
spring and twisted ends until parallel spring arms. Offer up the ribbon and
solder up and then while a finger over each spring, in turn, cut the copper
wires and gently release finger pressure. I'd rather have too little tension
in the U sptrings and so the fine ribbon, than too tight.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 6:04 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I've never needed to repair that type of meter movement, but it sounds as
though what has been described is likely to be the Taut-Band type of meter
movement.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 7:59 am
From: "N_Cook"

Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:lZxvp.82671$of7.68935@en-nntp-15.dc1.easynews.com...
> I've never needed to repair that type of meter movement, but it sounds as
> though what has been described is likely to be the Taut-Band type of meter
> movement.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ipltei$n6j$1@dont-email.me...
> > Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> > phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon,
> > top
> > and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is
> > soldered
> > to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
> > passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable
> > size
> > phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
> > solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U
springs
> > are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of
the
> > fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not
> > joined
> > up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to
> > resolder
> > to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
> > anchor farther along than originally.
> > But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering
the
> > anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of
> > external
> > spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement.
I'm
> > assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs
removed,
> > or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U
> > with
> > jigs removed, normal use.
> > Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame
> > drop,
> > with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece,
when
> > the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> > Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it
was
> > required?
> >
> >
>

I never looked inside one but all those broken Pye/Cambridge? moving spot
galvanometers presumably had that system. While at it anyone know what the
suspension is in Megger insulation tester? that dead springless movement,
jewelled without hairspring? - I've never looked insiside the meter movement
of one

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 8:48 am
From: Markus Faust

Am 02.05.2011 11:30, schrieb N_Cook:
> Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon, top
> and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is soldered
> to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
> passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable size
> phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
> solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U springs
> are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of the
> fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not joined
> up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to resolder
> to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
> anchor farther along than originally.
> But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering the
> anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of external
> spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement. I'm
> assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs removed,
> or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U with
> jigs removed, normal use.
> Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame drop,
> with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece, when
> the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it was
> required?

First try to attach the ribbon to the frame. You might want to remove
the magnet first (if it isn't a core magnet type meter).

Remove the solder from the U-spring, especially near the open end with
solder sucking wick.

You have to press down the spring at the broken side more than the final
position so it will pull the other side into position one it's released.
You have to try that out. Too few tension is just as bad as too much
tension, because the frame wouldn't be in the right position then.

Solder the ribbon to the U spring near the turn of the U. Release the
spring, check if the tension is right (axial position of the frame). If
it is, you can now slightly adjust the axis of the frame now by pushing
the ribbon left or right. Now fix the ribbon near the open end of the
U-spring. Check that the pointer moves smoothly over the whole range by
slightly blowing at it.

Re-attach the magnet/scale (if removed).

Check equilibration (set the pointer to about 25% of the range and check
that it doesn't move when the meter is tilted back/forth; repeat for 75%).

Set the pointer to zero. Check sensitivity. If you can adjust
sensitivity at the electronics, do so. Else you have to move the
magnetic shunt (small iron strip at the magnet) to adjust sensitivity.

Markus

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 3:54 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"boardjunkie1" <boardjunkie1@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:89bc0cb9-a8e5-4e7c-b01e-d856920b2a53@m10g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> On May 2, 2:10 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
>>
>> news:926ac3FtbvU1@mid.individual.net...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > "Arfa Daily"
>> >> "Phil Allison"
>>
>> >>>>> I'll let you know if they are for the same amp.
>>
>> >>>> OK. Noted.
>>
>> >>> ** I have all the schems now and they are certainly for the same amp.
>>
>> >>> Only thing I can spot different is that 630mA HT fuse shown in the
>> >>> output of the bridge rectifier where I see it fitted in the AC input.
>> >>> Makes no difference to the rms current flow in the part.
>>
>> >> Fair enough. I'll know if one crosses my bench ...
>>
>> > ** Update: On careful perusing of the schems, I see a more differences
>> > compared to the Vietnamese one I have.
>>
>> > 1. The Vietnamese have used 12V LED bulbs instead of 12 volt filament
>> > lamps.
>>
>> > 2. The power and output transformers carry quite different numbers.
>>
>> > 3. The EL34s have their heaters wired in parallel rather than series
>> > parallel.
>>
>> > The Vietnamese Marshalls seem to be special versions or clones of the
>> > similar UK models.
>>
>> > .... Phil
>>
>> Interesting. As Vietnam is your end of the world, I wonder if they are a
>> version specially assembled there for the Oz market, to avoid the costs
>> of
>> shipping such heavy items all the way from the UK. I'll see if I can
>> probe
>> around any Marshall contacts to find out if they know anything.
>>
>> Arfa
>
> Mind beaming a copy of that schemo in this direction?

'Tis beamed ... Let me know if any probs

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 7:36 am
From: boardjunkie1

On May 2, 11:54 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "boardjunkie1" <boardjunk...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:89bc0cb9-a8e5-4e7c-b01e-d856920b2a53@m10g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 2, 2:10 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >> "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
>
> >>news:926ac3FtbvU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> >> > "Arfa Daily"
> >> >> "Phil Allison"
>
> >> >>>>> I'll let you know if they are for the same amp.
>
> >> >>>> OK. Noted.
>
> >> >>> ** I have all the schems now and they are certainly for the same amp.
>
> >> >>> Only thing I can spot different is that 630mA HT fuse shown in the
> >> >>> output of the bridge rectifier where I see it fitted in the AC input.
> >> >>> Makes no difference to the rms current flow in the part.
>
> >> >> Fair enough. I'll know if one crosses my bench ...
>
> >> > ** Update: On careful perusing of the schems, I see a more differences
> >> > compared to the Vietnamese one I have.
>
> >> > 1. The Vietnamese have used 12V LED bulbs instead of 12 volt filament
> >> > lamps.
>
> >> > 2. The power and output transformers carry quite different numbers.
>
> >> > 3. The EL34s have their heaters wired in parallel rather than series
> >> > parallel.
>
> >> > The Vietnamese Marshalls seem to be special versions or clones of the
> >> > similar UK models.
>
> >> > .... Phil
>
> >> Interesting. As Vietnam is your end of the world, I wonder if they are a
> >> version specially assembled there for the Oz market, to avoid the costs
> >> of
> >> shipping such heavy items all the way from the UK. I'll see if I can
> >> probe
> >> around any Marshall contacts to find out if they know anything.
>
> >> Arfa
>
> > Mind beaming a copy of that schemo in this direction?
>
> 'Tis beamed ... Let me know if any probs
>
> Arfa

Right ahn...got it. Thanks bud...

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DISCOVER ISLAM - THE FASTEST GROWING RELIGION IN THE WORLD !!!!!!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fe924e4f9ec9e67a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 4:40 am
From: PeterD

On 5/1/2011 9:45 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> Bob Villa wrote:
>> On May 1, 5:37 pm, John-Del <ohge...@aol.com> wrote:
>>> On May 1, 5:00 am, bv <bv6bv6...@gmail.com> wrote some terrorist
>>> drivel, deleted:
>>>
>>> And Chlamydia is the fastest growing venereal disease. I guess both
>>> have about the same effect on the human race.
>>
>> Or it could be..."join our religion or will kill you!" That kind of
>> works in both directions.
>
> Way off-topic, but what the hell:
>
> Actually the original poster said nothing about killing anyone. Only
> asked for folks to join his religion.
>

True, but he wants people to join the religion of hate, violence and
oppression.

> Fair enough. Let's not get carried away here.

Well, throw a snow ball with a rock in it, and guess what happens?

>
> Oh, and Christianity may well claim to be the fastest growing religion
> world-wide, but the Nones (No religious denomination) is the fastest
> growing group in the USA...

Who cares which 'grows' fastest. If you want to believe in mythological
beings, fine. Don't force others to believe it so you can reinforce your
belief.

>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claims_to_be_the_fastest-growing_religion
>
> (if you believe wikipedia that is...)
>
> I on the other hand am an agnostic and like the definition:
>
> - An agnostic doesn't know the nature of god and doesn't think you do
> either. -
>

Well put.

> John :-#)#

--
I'm never going to grow up.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:03 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:926ngcFdanU1@mid.individual.net...
> "William Sommerwerck is a Lying Pig "

> Sorry, Phil... How are you going to get out of this one?
> >
http://www.homedepot.com/EcoSmart/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ4b8/R-100686997/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

> > One buck apiece.

>> The posted reviews are mostly highly negative. I've had no trouble
>> with any of the Home Depot CFLs I've bought -- including these.

> ** My post was:

> " A CFL that **genuinely replaces** a 100W bulb cost
> at lot more than $2.50 where I live."

> Then you post an example of CFLs that are total crap.
> Lasting only weeks and producing no where near the light
> of a 100W bulb. And you cannot even divide 8 by 4 and get
> it right. Fuck OFF you bloody IMBECILE !!

The only way to defend yourself against imbeciles is to speak the truth.

I haven't measured the output of a "100W" CFL. However, they're subjectively
quite bright, on the borderline of "too bright to stare at".

Are they as bright as a 100W incandescent? The light is spread over a larger
area, so it might not look as intense. Regardless, the opinions of some
reviewers that these are not "truly" 100W equivalents are suspect.

I have exactly the same four-bulb package shown. All the EcoSmart CFLs I've
bought have given good service -- at least one year of several-hours-daily
operation -- including the one in my den, which runs upside-down. When they
"die", they start erratically and fail shortly afterwards.

Why, Phil, do you want people to think you're a sociopath? Are you afraid
people might not respect you?

One of these days, you're going to run into someone less tolerant than the
people in this group, and he'll smash your head in. No doubt your dying
words will be "I was just joking". Well, I'm not amused, nor is anyone else
here.

Why don't you just join Bin Laden? You're probably too old for him, but one
never knows. Perhaps the two of you can drop in on Chris and Satan.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:10 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <ipm6ie$kh3$1@dont-email.me>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>
> Why don't you just join Bin Laden?

You're suggesting he gets himself shot in the head?

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:13 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Why don't you just join Bin Laden?

> You're suggesting he gets himself shot in the head?

No, I just suggested he join him. The method is up to Phil.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 8:03 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwerck is a Lying Pig "

** My post was:

" A CFL that **genuinely replaces** a 100W bulb cost at lot more than
$2.50 where I live."

Then you post an example of CFLs that are total crap.

Lasting only weeks and producing no where near the light of a 100W bulb.

And you cannot even divide 8 by 4 and get it right.

Fuck OFF - you PSYCHOTIC MANIAC !!

.... Phil

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 8:13 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:927veeFbo3U1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "William Sommerwerck is a Lying Pig "

> ** My post was:
>
> " A CFL that **genuinely replaces** a 100W bulb cost at lot more than
> $2.50 where I live."

> Then you post an example of CFLs that are total crap.
>
> Lasting only weeks and producing no where near the light of a 100W bulb.
>
> And you cannot even divide 8 by 4 and get it right.
>
> Fuck OFF - you PSYCHOTIC MANIAC !!

Phil, you're so boringly predictable.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 8:16 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwerck is a Lying Pig "

** My post was:

" A CFL that **genuinely replaces** a 100W bulb cost at lot more than
$2.50 where I live."

Then you post an example of CFLs that are total crap.

Lasting only weeks and producing no where near the light of a 100W bulb.

And you cannot even divide 8 by 4 and get it right.

Fuck OFF - you PSYCHOTIC MANIAC !!

FUCK OFF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Audio test software
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c2422fab2f85377?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:16 am
From: Markus Faust

Am 01.05.2011 16:16, schrieb Gareth Magennis:
> Hi,
>
> does anyone use or know of a good software package you can run on a
> laptop / external soundcard for audio test and measurement purposes?
> Just something basic that will generate signals, and have some kind of 2
> or 3 channel scope display/level meters, and a frequency response
> display/printout would be rather nice too.

Hi,

have a look at
http://www.ymec.com/products/dssf3e/
(for measurement on electronics)

or
http://www.fesb.hr/~mateljan/arta/
(for acoustical measurement)

HTH
Markus

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:21 am
From: Markus Faust

Depending on what you want to do, you might also consider
http://audio.rightmark.org/products/rmaa.shtml

Markus

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 4:41 am
From: M.Joshi

Gareth Magennis;2637868 Wrote:
> Hi,
>
> does anyone use or know of a good software package you can run on a
> laptop /
> external soundcard for audio test and measurement purposes?
> Just something basic that will generate signals, and have some kind of 2
> or
> 3 channel scope display/level meters, and a frequency response
> display/printout would be rather nice too.
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Gareth.

Have a look at TrueRTA.

--
M.Joshi

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Problem with Atmel micro in a Kaon TV decoder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5fa629ff20dbe40?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 5:10 am
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 1 May 2011 17:45:06 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul
<JERONI.PAUL@terra.es> wrote:

>On 29 abr, 14:39, Rich Webb <bbew...@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:
>> >By the way this is a Kaon KVR-1000TS+
>>
>> Good news and excellent troubleshooting to zero in on the problem!
>>
>> --
>> Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
>
>To add to the subject I have found an alternative fix for the problem.

[snippety snip]

Holy crap! That's some detailed analysis.

You know, you've got the material for a pretty good magazine article
there. Put together an abstract and point an editor or two to the
thread. Who knows?

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Really "need to" replace older CATV cables? Would mycableproviderreally
filter my line against my will?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31e43b6766887486?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 2 2011 10:04 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> We have Comcast Cable and in our town signals are sent into town from
> the head end, a distance of about 10 miles via fiber. It is my
> understanding that they arrive at a "node" where they are converted to
> RF and then conventionally distributed throughout the town. Our public
> access town channels used to return to the head end on a"T" channel, a
> frequency usually below channel 2 and then the cable company would up
> convert them to some cable channel and put them in the line up. These
> days the "T" channels are gone and our public access channels return
> to the head end via fiber.

The return channels (T) are used for internet, VOIP and to order pay
per view. I used two T channels on the system I maintained near
Cincinnati. One on the main loop, and the other to connect a sub split
to a mid split community loop. The interface between the two cable
companies was a single Hetrodyne Signal Processor to convert the alien
system's channel 12 to T-10, which was fed back to our headend. The
amplifiers required two pilot channels. We used 2 and 12, so our
forward signal was on Ch 2. This was fed into their system, and routed
to their headend. They were already set up with a Ch 6 feed from one
school, so we let them keep control of the loop. I designed the
headend, which was another pair of RCA HSP, as well as the pole mounted
HSP at the interconnect. I set the levels in the shop, and was only off
.1 dB at the interconnect point. Not bad for hardline that was hung
five years earlier, and never spliced. :)

The biggest problem with the return channels is noise. Every source
connected adds noise to the system. Some return amps were switchable to
disable them, allowing the CATV operator to route a single source to the
headend. This made sense when it was used for nothing more than live
remote feeds. Fiber breaks it into small enough nodes that there is no
need for switching, and in most cases, no amplifier for that direction.

> Ingress was a big problem on some of the older RG59U stuff. There is
> still aircraft radio, public safety, and low band over the air radio
> signals out there that can get into a cable and raise hell with a CATV
> system. That's why cable companies really hate that old stuff. Much
> of that cable was nothing more than a center conductor surrounded by a
> foil shield with a few "drain" wires for show. It was really terrible
> crap which didn't even qualify as good clothes line. Lenny

It was still better than the original copper braid coax. Even double
copper braided with a silver plated copper center conductor was
horrible. That wire sold for over $1 a foot in the early '80s. Most
ingression/radiation problems with foil shielded coax is from bad crimps
at the connectors, or wire that has pin holed and water got inside,
which wicks in the dust and salt on the jacket. That eats the foil.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================

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