sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* paypal wholesale all brand(UGGBOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,JERSEY,
T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on. - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/583a43e3a9991194?hl=en
* panasonic DC280-340V Dc Motor - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4bd99989e15505b?hl=en
* misted C electrolyte - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9c9924698735c42?hl=en
* Lost in VIDEO signal - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ac11c52da1a87d4?hl=en
* BEAUTIFUL GIRLS WAITING FOR ONLINE CHATTING - DEALS WITH BOYS AND GIRLS -
ROMANTIC TIPS HERE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/09e1d95f711e8514?hl=en
* OT -- switching heating elements - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2359de19aee3537a?hl=en
* click me - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/06463a7e155bfaf3?hl=en

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TOPIC: paypal wholesale all brand(UGGBOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,
JERSEY,T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/583a43e3a9991194?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jun 20 2011 10:45 pm
From: jialiu

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: panasonic DC280-340V Dc Motor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4bd99989e15505b?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 1:52 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

You might try looking for the motor specifications at a Panasonic appliance
website, or a supplier of these motors for replacement purposes.

It's probably not likely that this motor is a DC (as in direct current +/-)
motor.

It's far more likely that the motor is an AC (as in alternating current 50
or 60Hz) motor.

If you can take a picture of the label, someone will probably be able to
sort it out for you.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"kwamena banson" <virginbanson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bb0803b8-fa13-4560-a8ce-a7cf298c988d@j15g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...
>I have a panasonic ARW4 1H8P30AC
> SP 30W DC280-340V
> A981 149 (The above is the label on the
> motor)
> DC motor which I had from an Air conditioner. I want to use it for a
> project but i can't figure out how to start it.
> it has 5 leads in the ff colors Red, Back, White, Yellow and Blue.
> Any information on how to start this Motor will be of great help to
> me. Thanks

==============================================================================
TOPIC: misted C electrolyte
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9c9924698735c42?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 2:13 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

You're thorough and consciencious, and/or cleaning and drying was required
in your job.. although consumer crap isn't intended to last for years, which
is a fairly reasonable assumption for a typical piece of Tektronix gear.

I've seen decades old Tek equipment that still operated fine, although not
as accurately as a freshly calibrated instrument, still perfectly
operational.

If this TV gets recycled, in several decades it will have already been
numerous pieces of cheaply made consumer crap, sold over 'n over again to
somewhat senseless consumers (or it could end up in some space program or
national defense weapons equipment).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:itjj30$4j5$1@dont-email.me...
> You seem to be looking for a way to ignore the cleaning issue.
> I've had TEK circuit boards that I'd cleaned "squeaky clean",
> TWICE. But it took a third time to make the board come back to
> life.
> Electrolyte may not be your current problem, but it WILL
> be a future problem.
> Leave electrolyte on stuff at your peril ;-)

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 8:37 am
From: "N_Cook"

Using principally a 8.5KV transformer and variac and 300M ohm 1000:1 divider
capacitors passed at
1.5KV , 9 to 10uA
2KV , 12 to 14uA
2.5KV , 15 to 17uA
at 50Hz

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lost in VIDEO signal
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ac11c52da1a87d4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 3:42 am
From: benitos

On Jun 3, 2:50 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "benitos"
>  "Phil Allison"
> "benitos"
>
>
>
> > ** That sounds like you have a ground loop in the cabling passing noise
> > into
> > the shield of the RG59.
>
> > Your 24VAC may well be the source.
>
> > Or possibly injection from AC power cables running along with the RG59.
>
> > Whatever, the pic should not contain noise or lines.
>
> Right , there is a 400VAC passing near in the ground.
>
> Is it possible to remove noise at the Display end?
>
> ** Find the cause and fix that.
>
> If there is a common ground connection between the 24VAC and the RG59 -
> that is it.
>
> Co-axial cables are good at rejecting external magnetic field interference -
> but may be subject to an AC electric field that runs alongside for 1500
> feet.
>
> ....  Phil

No , I did not ground the RG to the 24VAC

==============================================================================
TOPIC: BEAUTIFUL GIRLS WAITING FOR ONLINE CHATTING - DEALS WITH BOYS AND GIRLS
- ROMANTIC TIPS HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/09e1d95f711e8514?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 6:23 am
From: ilavarasi vithya

http://freechat-victory.blogspot.com/

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT -- switching heating elements
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2359de19aee3537a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 5:25 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Jeffrey Angus" <jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:itp42h$858$1@dont-email.me...
> On 6/20/2011 10:36 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> Why don't you stop by, and I'll pull out the heating element part way.
>> Then you can touch one of the wires feeding the element with one hand,
>> and the a ground (such as the oven cabinet) with your other other hand.

>> Care to bet your life on it?

> I'd be happy to, idiot. I have enough sense to disconnect it first.

Oh. I thought all that was needed was to disconnect one side.

From my perspective, the issue is this... There are certain design rules you
follow, simply because they're common sense. That's it.

My toaster oven doesn't shut off when you open the door, either because B&D
was cheap, or the designer didn't think anything bad would ever happen.
Older models did, including ones with sealed heating elements.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 6:16 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 6/21/2011 7:25 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> "Jeffrey Angus"<jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
> news:itp42h$858$1@dont-email.me...
>> On 6/20/2011 10:36 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
>>> Why don't you stop by, and I'll pull out the heating element part way.
>>> Then you can touch one of the wires feeding the element with one hand,
>>> and the a ground (such as the oven cabinet) with your other other hand.
>
>>> Care to bet your life on it?
>
>> I'd be happy to, idiot. I have enough sense to disconnect it first.
>
> Oh. I thought all that was needed was to disconnect one side.

Uh huh, you're purposely talking in circles here....

You only have to disconnect one side to make the heater not heat.
You have to disconnect BOTH sides to make sure it's doesn't have
power on it to safely service the unit.

> From my perspective, the issue is this... There are certain design rules you
> follow, simply because they're common sense. That's it.
>
> My toaster oven doesn't shut off when you open the door, either because B&D
> was cheap, or the designer didn't think anything bad would ever happen.
> Older models did, including ones with sealed heating elements.

Does you gas oven shut it self off when you open the door?

What kind of red herring is this? It's a fucking toaster oven, not
a front loading washing machine.

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 9:11 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Jeffrey Angus" <jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:itq5iu$2ha$1@dont-email.me...
> On 6/21/2011 7:25 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> > "Jeffrey Angus"<jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
> > news:itp42h$858$1@dont-email.me...
> >> On 6/20/2011 10:36 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:

> >>> Why don't you stop by, and I'll pull out the heating element part way.
> >>> Then you can touch one of the wires feeding the element with one hand,
> >>> and the a ground (such as the oven cabinet) with your other other
hand.

> >>> Care to bet your life on it?

> >> I'd be happy to, idiot. I have enough sense to disconnect it first.

> > Oh. I thought all that was needed was to disconnect one side.

> Uh huh, you're purposely talking in circles here....

> You only have to disconnect one side to make the heater not heat.
> You have to disconnect BOTH sides to make sure it's doesn't have
> power on it to safely service the unit.

Of course. That's why I wondered why you were saying what you did -- since
the whole point of my original plaint was that only one side was disconected
from the line.

>> My toaster oven doesn't shut off when you open the door, either because
B&D
>> was cheap, or the designer didn't think anything bad would ever happen.
>> Older models did, including ones with sealed heating elements.

> Does your gas oven shut it self off when you open the door?

Good question. I've never owned a gas oven, so I don't know. However, a gas
oven offers only the possibility of burning one's self -- not electrocution.
And for a number of obvious reasons, you wouldn't want to shut it off that
way, anyway.

> What kind of red herring is this? It's a fucking toaster oven, not
> a front loading washing machine.

It's not a red herring. It's that toaster ovens /used/ to be designed to
fully shut off the power when the door was opened, even though the chance of
users electrocuting themselves was less than minuscule. I don't see why this
shouldn't apply to ovens.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: click me
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/06463a7e155bfaf3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jun 21 2011 8:47 am
From: Rhoda pn

http://123maza.com/65/Areca451/

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