sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* ADULT SEX PHOTOS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/188853eb5c8f858d?hl=en
* Overdrive inhibitor sensor - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e8f271ca1639c892?hl=en
* Kenmore 110.24722300 broken tub - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcdb82af4fdb52eb?hl=en
* ceiling fan buzzing - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d17f2f1a53a0c906?hl=en
* Humidity Sensor Goldstar DH305 Dehumidifier Dew - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5a0333f29900e61f?hl=en
* Connect TV audio output to old stereo amp - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9517efe346c55f4?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ADULT SEX PHOTOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/188853eb5c8f858d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jul 24 2011 7:22 pm
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

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FOR HOT PHOTO&VIDEOS

KATRINA KAIF RARE PHOTOS
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/07/katrina-kaif-wallpapers.html
TAMANNA HOT SEXY PHOTOS & VIDEOS
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/07/tamanna-wallpapers.html
PRANITHA LATEST BEAUTIFUL PHOTOS
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/06/about-pranitha-praneetha-is-beautiful.html
KAJAL AGARWAL HOT SEXY PHOTOS
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/05/kajal-agarwal.html
KATRINA KAIF IN BEAUTIFUL RED DRESS
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/05/katrina-kaif_22.html
GOOD LOOKING DEEPIKA PADUKONE
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/05/deepika-padukone_22.html
AISHWARYA RAI UNBELIVABLE PHOTO
http://southactresstou.blogspot.com/2011/05/aishwarya-rai.html

FOR FAST UPDATES IN TELUGU FILM INDUSTRY
http://allyouwants.blogspot.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Overdrive inhibitor sensor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e8f271ca1639c892?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 12:28 am
From: "N_Cook"

Peter2 <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:j0i5el$f89$1@dont-email.me...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:j0hlbj$6oo$1@dont-email.me...
> > Peter2 <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
> > news:j0hf6u$v12$1@dont-email.me...
> >>
> >
> > I was not told what its from. Googling I only found references to
> > overdrive
> > inhibitor switches not tachometer type sensors. So a standing 12V across
> > them ?
> >
>
> Your description is an inductive tachometer pickup coil... I don't think
you
> will find any biased with 12 volts across them either.
>
>

I hope gearboxes make good Faraday screens against ignition EMI, there is no
braid screening around the signal wires though.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 4:11 am
From: "Peter2"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:j0j77s$kg4$1@dont-email.me...
> Peter2 <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
> news:j0i5el$f89$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:j0hlbj$6oo$1@dont-email.me...
>> > Peter2 <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
>> > news:j0hf6u$v12$1@dont-email.me...
>> >>
>> >
>> > I was not told what its from. Googling I only found references to
>> > overdrive
>> > inhibitor switches not tachometer type sensors. So a standing 12V
>> > across
>> > them ?
>> >
>>
>> Your description is an inductive tachometer pickup coil... I don't think
> you
>> will find any biased with 12 volts across them either.
>>
>>
>
> I hope gearboxes make good Faraday screens against ignition EMI, there is
> no
> braid screening around the signal wires though.
>
>

Generally twisted pair is used (at least on the ones that I work with), and
I've had little problems with EMI (though I do work primarily with diesel
trucks so EMI won't be ignition based at least). These same transmission
(for me) are used with gas engines however, so it appears to the designer
that EMI won't be an issue.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 12:18 am
From: "N_Cook"

Used in a Land Rover

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kenmore 110.24722300 broken tub
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcdb82af4fdb52eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 1:37 am
From: Kenuf

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
<stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
>number 110.24722300.

>
>-Jesse

This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I
am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport
of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into
the cups by vibration?

Just a thought...

Kenuf

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 6:10 am
From: Jstein

On Jul 25, 4:37 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>
> <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Hi everyone,
>
> >I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> >number 110.24722300.
>
> >-Jesse
>
> This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I
> am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport
> of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into
> the cups by vibration?
>
> Just a thought...
>
> Kenuf

I did think of this but what I'm struggling with is that the pins fall
out very easily when I insert them into the holes. The pins have holes
at the top for what looks like a cotter pin. Where did the cotter pin
go? I suppose they could have been plastic and meant to shear after
1st use.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 6:58 am
From: "Peter2"

"Jstein" <stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:aa111507-8844-413b-9f0e-fdf4e01dbeea@gv8g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 25, 4:37 am, Kenuf <a...@invalid.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 13:02:49 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>
> <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Hi everyone,
>
> >I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> >number 110.24722300.
>
> >-Jesse
>
> This is a different type of machine to what we have in the UK, and I
> am no expert on any of them, however- could the pins be for transport
> of the machine and on the first use of the machine simply drop into
> the cups by vibration?
>
> Just a thought...
>
> Kenuf

> I did think of this but what I'm struggling with is that the pins fall
> out very easily when I insert them into the holes. The pins have holes
> at the top for what looks like a cotter pin. Where did the cotter pin
> go? I suppose they could have been plastic and meant to shear after
> 1st use.

(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
Worse: why am I using it?)

Consider this: the pins were attached to a plastic 'tape' that runs to the
rear of the washer. On the tape is a tag that says "Pull this tape
completely out prior to useing the washer." Yes, I've seen this setup, don't
recall what brand it was.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 7:34 am
From: JW

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400 "Peter2" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1@dont-email.me>:

>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!

This I can help with:
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/

>Worse: why am I using it?)

Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 9:20 am
From: "Peter2"

"JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
news:pmvq2718ga8sp3664mv47qmsdlda9dhcjo@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400 "Peter2" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
> Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1@dont-email.me>:
>
>>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!
>
> This I can help with:
> http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/

Close, but QuoteFix is for Outlook not Outlook Express. And Outlook doesn't
support NNTP.

>
>>Worse: why am I using it?)
>
> Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)

I'm going to have to work on that one too... OE doesn't have spell checker
(except in French, WTF?) doesn't quote right, is a PITA to navigate in, is
short it sucks, big time. Problem I have is that Thunderbird won't connect
properly with Eternal September, so I can't use that (even though it is my
'favorite' NNTP reader right now.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 9:27 am
From: "Peter2"

Peter2 wrote:
> "JW" <none@dev.null> wrote in message
> news:pmvq2718ga8sp3664mv47qmsdlda9dhcjo@4ax.com...
>> On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400 "Peter2" <peter2@hipson.net>
>> wrote in Message id: <j0jsqg$g88$1@dont-email.me>:
>>
>>> (Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid
>>> program!
>>
>> This I can help with:
>> http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/outlook-quotefix/
>
> Close, but QuoteFix is for Outlook not Outlook Express. And Outlook
> doesn't support NNTP.
>

Geeze, there is an Outlook Express version, I missed it! So I installed it,
and the keyboard's up arrow won't work in replies, but I guess I can live
with that (you can't right arrow to the prior line either!)

>>
>>> Worse: why am I using it?)
>>
>> Good question. I can't help you with that. ;-)
>
> I'm going to have to work on that one too... OE doesn't have spell
> checker (except in French, WTF?) doesn't quote right, is a PITA to
> navigate in, is short it sucks, big time. Problem I have is that
> Thunderbird won't connect properly with Eternal September, so I can't
> use that (even though it is my 'favorite' NNTP reader right now.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 12:07 pm
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

Jstein wrote:
>
> I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> number 110.24722300. I noticed water pooling under the washer a few
> days ago and assumed that the tub overflowed. Upon further examination
> it would appear that the plastic tub has a crack in it. The crack is
> located at the base of one of the "fins". The underside of the tub
> appears to have 3 fins that are approx 1/8" thick, 2" deep and 2"
> long. They serve no purpose from what I can tell. It looks as though
> the fin has knocked into the metal base of the washer causing the
> fracture. The fin adjacent to the cracked one shows signs of knocking
> into the frame as well.
> I also noticed that there are two little plastic cups that are mounted
> to the frame. These can be seen here:
> http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq154/steinj1/
> Both cups were filled 3/4 with water. Both cups also contained a pin
> with a hole for what looks like a cotter pin.

I think those are anti-siphon devices (siphon break?), to keep the
drain from siphoning water out of the tub at the wrong time. You may
want to check appliance websites with forums, like ApplianceJunk.com
(has many manuals, as does ApplianceDigest.com ), ApplianceHelp.com ,
FixItNow.com , and Appliantology.org .

There may be a secret warranty on cracked tubs, but don't expect Sears
or Whirlpool to admit to this. Also Sears is nothing special when it
comes to appliance repair, except for their high parts and labor
prices. If there's no warranty, look for either Whirlpool factory
repair or an independent authorized repair company that has a real
street address (no big ads in the phone book). I think the only way
to fix the plastic tub is by melting it back together with a soldering
iron and some identical plastic to use as welding rod.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ceiling fan buzzing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d17f2f1a53a0c906?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 3:28 am
From: KR

On Jul 23, 10:18 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Jul 22, 8:44 am, all2...@spambog.com (Wolfgang Allinger) wrote:
>
>
>
> >  On 19 Jul 11 at group /sci/electronics/repair in article
> >  <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com>  (Wild_Bill)  wrote:
>
> > >Much depends upon what type of motor is in the ceiling fan. There are
> > >more than one type of AC motors without brushes.
>
> > >Klem/Lenny hasn't revealed what type of AC motor he's referring to..
> > >nor anything specific regarding the "generic" controller that wasn't
> > >supplied with the fan.
>
> > Here in PY there are lots of ceiling fans from Wahson/China.
>
> > 230V/50Hz
>
> > They use a separate autotransformer in an aluminium housing (15x9x4 cm)  
> > as controller.
>
> > It is in series with the motor and has 7 taps and a turning switch with  
> > weird numbered positions from 0 = off and 1=max ... 7=slowest speed!
> > The motor so gets between 230V and down to some 80V.
>
> > My 5 Wahsons did not buzzing, even in slowest speed.
>
> > However I have 2 fans (also made in china) with no external controller  
> > but a small hanging line which switches between 3 different speeds by  
> > taping different positions in the motor winding. They both are buzzing  
> > in speeds below max. I think thats in the remaining active sectors of  
> > the winding.
>
> > None of these motors have brushes.
>
> > Saludos Wolfgang
>  --
> > Meine 7 Sinne:
> > Unsinn, Schwachsinn, Blödsinn, Wahnsinn, Stumpfsinn, Irrsinn, Lötzinn.
> > Wolfgang Allinger   Paraguay             reply Adresse gesetzt !
> > ca. 15h00..21h00 MEZ  SKYPE:wolfgang.allinger
>
> I  would like to try the trick with the capacitor in series with the
> slowest tap on the speed control however I am a bit unclear as to  how
> to "size" the capacitor. By "size" I mean that it seems like if the
> motor draws one amp for example, (and I will confirm that first), I
> will need a capacitor that can handle more than that amount of current
> flowing through it. I remember dealing with this sort of thing in
> electronics school, but admittedly that was a very long time ago and
> I've forgotten how to work this out.
>
> For instance, I have a 4uf 250V AC capacitor that I would like to try.
> This part is designed for motor starting. This is a fairly large
> capacitor. The control box measures approximately 8" x 6" X 3". Most
> of that space is taken up by the switch and transformer. There would
> not be room inside for anything this large. Or do I need to use
> anything this large? Thanks, Lenny

Took a look inside a controller today, they have 1.8UF and 3.6UF (at
50hz) capacitors (motor was labelled 65w)

Another thing you could to, if you have access to someone who is
reasonably accurate in metal folding, is to fold the fan
blades down a little bit more to change the pitch. (alternately you
might try packing washers between the blade and the motor under the
mounting screws to tilt it slightly more - dont know if it would work
but worth a try)

A friend found that out the hard way years back when unknowingly put 4
blades meant
for a 3 blade fan onto a 4 blade fan body and nearly drove himself mad
trying to work out why he couldnt get it to go fast enough.
He had picked up several fans and a box of blades free from a place
that was being renovated and just picked out 4 blades that looked the
same.

It was a very small difference in blade angle, but knocked off an
enormous amount of speed

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 7:28 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Jul 25, 6:28 am, KR <kenreed1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jul 23, 10:18 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jul 22, 8:44 am, all2...@spambog.com (Wolfgang Allinger) wrote:
>
> > >  On 19 Jul 11 at group /sci/electronics/repair in article
> > >  <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com>  (Wild_Bill)  wrote:
>
> > > >Much depends upon what type of motor is in the ceiling fan. There are
> > > >more than one type of AC motors without brushes.
>
> > > >Klem/Lenny hasn't revealed what type of AC motor he's referring to..
> > > >nor anything specific regarding the "generic" controller that wasn't
> > > >supplied with the fan.
>
> > > Here in PY there are lots of ceiling fans from Wahson/China.
>
> > > 230V/50Hz
>
> > > They use a separate autotransformer in an aluminium housing (15x9x4 cm)  
> > > as controller.
>
> > > It is in series with the motor and has 7 taps and a turning switch with  
> > > weird numbered positions from 0 = off and 1=max ... 7=slowest speed!
> > > The motor so gets between 230V and down to some 80V.
>
> > > My 5 Wahsons did not buzzing, even in slowest speed.
>
> > > However I have 2 fans (also made in china) with no external controller  
> > > but a small hanging line which switches between 3 different speeds by  
> > > taping different positions in the motor winding. They both are buzzing  
> > > in speeds below max. I think thats in the remaining active sectors of  
> > > the winding.
>
> > > None of these motors have brushes.
>
> > > Saludos Wolfgang
> >  --
> > > Meine 7 Sinne:
> > > Unsinn, Schwachsinn, Blödsinn, Wahnsinn, Stumpfsinn, Irrsinn, Lötzinn.
> > > Wolfgang Allinger   Paraguay             reply Adresse gesetzt !
> > > ca. 15h00..21h00 MEZ  SKYPE:wolfgang.allinger
>
> > I  would like to try the trick with the capacitor in series with the
> > slowest tap on the speed control however I am a bit unclear as to  how
> > to "size" the capacitor. By "size" I mean that it seems like if the
> > motor draws one amp for example, (and I will confirm that first), I
> > will need a capacitor that can handle more than that amount of current
> > flowing through it. I remember dealing with this sort of thing in
> > electronics school, but admittedly that was a very long time ago and
> > I've forgotten how to work this out.
>
> > For instance, I have a 4uf 250V AC capacitor that I would like to try.
> > This part is designed for motor starting. This is a fairly large
> > capacitor. The control box measures approximately 8" x 6" X 3". Most
> > of that space is taken up by the switch and transformer. There would
> > not be room inside for anything this large. Or do I need to use
> > anything this large? Thanks, Lenny
>
> Took a look inside a controller today, they have 1.8UF and 3.6UF (at
> 50hz) capacitors  (motor was labelled 65w)
>
> Another thing you could to, if you have access to someone who is
> reasonably accurate in metal folding, is to fold the fan
> blades down a little bit more to change the pitch. (alternately you
> might try packing washers between the blade and the motor under the
> mounting screws to tilt it slightly more - dont know if it would work
> but worth a try)
>
> A friend found that out the hard way years back when unknowingly put 4
> blades meant
> for a 3 blade fan onto a 4 blade fan body and nearly drove himself mad
> trying to work out why he couldnt get it to go fast enough.
> He had picked up several fans and a box of blades free from a place
> that was being renovated and just picked out 4 blades that looked the
> same.
>
> It was a very small difference in blade angle, but knocked off an
> enormous amount of speed

But wouldn't that also load the motor more than it should be? Lenny

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Humidity Sensor Goldstar DH305 Dehumidifier Dew
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5a0333f29900e61f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 5:45 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Thank you *Franc.. you have the knack to be able to find just about anything
that gets mentioned.

I've been surprised many times by your abilities.

*(spelled correctly this time)

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:f39p27l7a9b3499691qphn6sqini6laqgp@4ax.com...
>
> You can purchase the part (6877A30013R) at Sears for US$13.25:
> http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/6877A30013R/0042/580?pathTaken=&filterPart=&pop=flush&prst=0&shdPart=6877A30013R
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Connect TV audio output to old stereo amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9517efe346c55f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 7:40 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Jul 24, 7:47 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> There's no reason you shouldn't connect the TV. You will definitely get
> better sound. *
>
> See if the TV has a regular pair of RCA audio-output jacks, which you should
> use instead of the headphone jack. Regardless of which you use, there will
> be no need for voltage or impedance matching. (I don't know where you got
> your specs, but the TV does not have a 47K audio output impedance. It's
> about 1/20 that.)

Does the TV have a separate headphone amp, or does the headphone
simply connect to the speaker amp? Audio power amps are meant to
supply a great deal of current compared to what a high impedance input
expects -- this would not present a problem for driving a preamp?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jul 25 2011 2:25 pm
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com

On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 17:49:43 -0400, Al Moodie <nospam@nospam.com>
wrote:

>On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:44:59 -0700, PlainBill@yawhoo.com wrote:
>
>> First of all, do not use the phono input; it is designed for a
>>magnetic cartridge, has RIAA equilization, and will seriously
>>overamplify the bass frequencies.
>
>I am using the AUX input.
>>
>> Second, I would spend some time reading the manual for the TV, and
>>studying the function of the audio output RCA jacks. If they can be
>>configured to suit your purposes, they would be preferable to the
>>headphone jack.
>
>I have used the headphone jack because it is accessible from the side
>of the TV. Works just fine and the sound quality has improved. To
>access the audio output jacks I will have to remove the TV from the
>wall to gain access, a pain, but will do so when I have more time.
>>
>> Third, you are setting up a situation where the TV will be turned
>>off, but the amplifier will still be on. For a number of reasons,
>>this is not desirable.
>
>Other than I forget to turn it off when I go to bed, how is this
>undesireable.
>
>You have given me advice before on badcaps forum, small world, thanks
>again.
>
>Thanks to all who posted.
>
>Al.
Wasting electricity is the obvious problem. Possible transients as
the set powers up and down is a second. Accelerated aging of the
components in the amp would be a third.

PlainBill

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