sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Overdrive inhibitor sensor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e8f271ca1639c892?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 12:18 am
From: "N_Cook"

Used in a Land Rover

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TOPIC: ceiling fan buzzing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d17f2f1a53a0c906?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 1:35 am
From: KR

On Jul 26, 12:28 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Jul 25, 6:28 am, KR <kenreed1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Jul 23, 10:18 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > On Jul 22, 8:44 am, all2...@spambog.com (Wolfgang Allinger) wrote:
>
> > > > On 19 Jul 11 at group /sci/electronics/repair in article
> > > > <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> (Wild_Bill) wrote:
>
> > > > >Much depends upon what type of motor is in the ceiling fan. There are
> > > > >more than one type of AC motors without brushes.
>
> > > > >Klem/Lenny hasn't revealed what type of AC motor he's referring to..
> > > > >nor anything specific regarding the "generic" controller that wasn't
> > > > >supplied with the fan.
>
> > > > Here in PY there are lots of ceiling fans from Wahson/China.
>
> > > > 230V/50Hz
>
> > > > They use a separate autotransformer in an aluminium housing (15x9x4 cm)
> > > > as controller.
>
> > > > It is in series with the motor and has 7 taps and a turning switch with
> > > > weird numbered positions from 0 = off and 1=max ... 7=slowest speed!
> > > > The motor so gets between 230V and down to some 80V.
>
> > > > My 5 Wahsons did not buzzing, even in slowest speed.
>
> > > > However I have 2 fans (also made in china) with no external controller
> > > > but a small hanging line which switches between 3 different speeds by
> > > > taping different positions in the motor winding. They both are buzzing
> > > > in speeds below max. I think thats in the remaining active sectors of
> > > > the winding.
>
> > > > None of these motors have brushes.
>
> > > > Saludos Wolfgang
> > > --
> > > > Meine 7 Sinne:
> > > > Unsinn, Schwachsinn, Blödsinn, Wahnsinn, Stumpfsinn, Irrsinn, Lötzinn.
> > > > Wolfgang Allinger Paraguay reply Adresse gesetzt !
> > > > ca. 15h00..21h00 MEZ SKYPE:wolfgang.allinger
>
> > > I would like to try the trick with the capacitor in series with the
> > > slowest tap on the speed control however I am a bit unclear as to how
> > > to "size" the capacitor. By "size" I mean that it seems like if the
> > > motor draws one amp for example, (and I will confirm that first), I
> > > will need a capacitor that can handle more than that amount of current
> > > flowing through it. I remember dealing with this sort of thing in
> > > electronics school, but admittedly that was a very long time ago and
> > > I've forgotten how to work this out.
>
> > > For instance, I have a 4uf 250V AC capacitor that I would like to try.
> > > This part is designed for motor starting. This is a fairly large
> > > capacitor. The control box measures approximately 8" x 6" X 3". Most
> > > of that space is taken up by the switch and transformer. There would
> > > not be room inside for anything this large. Or do I need to use
> > > anything this large? Thanks, Lenny
>
> > Took a look inside a controller today, they have 1.8UF and 3.6UF (at
> > 50hz) capacitors (motor was labelled 65w)
>
> > Another thing you could to, if you have access to someone who is
> > reasonably accurate in metal folding, is to fold the fan
> > blades down a little bit more to change the pitch. (alternately you
> > might try packing washers between the blade and the motor under the
> > mounting screws to tilt it slightly more - dont know if it would work
> > but worth a try)
>
> > A friend found that out the hard way years back when unknowingly put 4
> > blades meant
> > for a 3 blade fan onto a 4 blade fan body and nearly drove himself mad
> > trying to work out why he couldnt get it to go fast enough.
> > He had picked up several fans and a box of blades free from a place
> > that was being renovated and just picked out 4 blades that looked the
> > same.
>
> > It was a very small difference in blade angle, but knocked off an
> > enormous amount of speed
>
> But wouldn't that also load the motor more than it should be? Lenny

definitely would, but whether or not it damages the motor is another
matter.
as long as there is enough airflow around it to not let it overheat it
should be ok ?.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kenmore 110.24722300 broken tub
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcdb82af4fdb52eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 7:00 am
From: Jstein

On Jul 25, 3:07 pm, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com>
wrote:
> Jstein wrote:
>
> > I'm in desperate need of help with my Kenmore 70 series washer model
> > number 110.24722300. I noticed water pooling under the washer a few
> > days ago and assumed that the tub overflowed. Upon further examination
> > it would appear that the plastic tub has a crack in it. The crack is
> > located at the base of one of the "fins". The underside of the tub
> > appears to have 3 fins that are approx 1/8" thick, 2" deep and 2"
> > long. They serve no purpose from what I can tell. It looks as though
> > the fin has knocked into the metal base of the washer causing the
> > fracture. The fin adjacent to the cracked one shows signs of knocking
> > into the frame as well.
> > I also noticed that there are two little plastic cups that are mounted
> > to the frame. These can be seen here:
> >http://s443.photobucket.com/albums/qq154/steinj1/
> > Both cups were filled 3/4 with water. Both cups also contained a pin
> > with a hole for what looks like a cotter pin.
>
> I think those are anti-siphon devices (siphon break?), to keep the
> drain from siphoning water out of the tub at the wrong time. You may
> want to check appliance websites with forums, like ApplianceJunk.com
> (has many manuals, as does ApplianceDigest.com ), ApplianceHelp.com ,
> FixItNow.com , and Appliantology.org .
>
> There may be a secret warranty on cracked tubs, but don't expect Sears
> or Whirlpool to admit to this. Also Sears is nothing special when it
> comes to appliance repair, except for their high parts and labor
> prices. If there's no warranty, look for either Whirlpool factory
> repair or an independent authorized repair company that has a real
> street address (no big ads in the phone book). I think the only way
> to fix the plastic tub is by melting it back together with a soldering
> iron and some identical plastic to use as welding rod.

I ended up applying some silicone to the underside of the tub. This
has helped significantly though it does still leak. I think I'm going
to try applying some silicone to the inside of the tub as well. After
observing the machine complete 2 full loads I am of the feeling that
the machine was overloaded or the clothes shifted making the tub heavy
on one side. The plastic fins did not come close to knocking into the
frame during these loads. Does anyone have any recommendations as to
where I can find the spanner wrench? I haven't had much luck locating
one online. Thanks again.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 10:23 am
From: "larry moe 'n curly"

Jstein wrote:
>
> I ended up applying some silicone to the underside of the tub. This
> has helped significantly though it does still leak. I think I'm going
> to try applying some silicone to the inside of the tub as well. After
> observing the machine complete 2 full loads I am of the feeling that
> the machine was overloaded or the clothes shifted making the tub heavy
> on one side. The plastic fins did not come close to knocking into the
> frame during these loads. Does anyone have any recommendations as to
> where I can find the spanner wrench? I haven't had much luck locating
> one online.

Try automotive part supplies, but you should be able to get by with a
hammer and a punch to remove the nut holding the tub against the
shaft. That's one of the methods Whirlpool describes in its factory
service manuals. Did you get the manual from ApplianceJunk.com or
ApplianceDigest.com ?

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 1:20 pm
From: "Ron D."

I have an idea for the use of the tabs. They may allow stacking of
the tubs. Thus they were added for manufacturing.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 4:36 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 09:58:39 -0400, "Peter2" <peter2@hipson.net> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

>(Why the fuck can't OE properly quote messages? What a stupid program!

Does this help?
http://home.in.tum.de/~jain/software/oe-quotefix/

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Test Li Ion Batteries?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7f8288ba4f888f5c?hl=en
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== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 7:35 am
From: KenO

Appreciate any recommendations concerning software to test Li Ion
battery packs.

Thanks

Ken

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 8:14 am
From: JW

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 07:35:01 -0700 (PDT) KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id:
<4fffd1dd-daac-48d0-a181-2c6ec60b3dec@e40g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>:

>Appreciate any recommendations concerning software to test Li Ion
>battery packs.

Assuming YM laptops.
http://www.passmark.com/products/batmon.htm

I have not used it, just know of it's existence. I do like and use their
BurnInTest software.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 8:42 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 07:35:01 -0700 (PDT), KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Appreciate any recommendations concerning software to test Li Ion
>battery packs.

You'll find quite a bit on testing LiPo batteries in the model
airplane forums. For example:
<http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187>

If your Li-Ion battery happens to be in a Windoze laptop, I suggest
HwInfo32 (or 64) which includes a fairly complete battery capacity
report.
<http://www.hwinfo.com>

If you just want to test the battery itself, I use:
<http://www.westmountainradio.com/content.php?page=CBA>
which produces nifty graphs instead of a single number.

If none of these answer your vague question, please disclose what
you're trying to accomplish and what you have to work with.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 12:31 pm
From: mike

KenO wrote:
> Appreciate any recommendations concerning software to test Li Ion
> battery packs.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ken
You need to be much more specific about what you want to test and why.

I'll use the term "become unusable" instead of "fail" cause lithiums
used according to their design specifications rarely "fail".
For example, lithium batteries in laptops become unusable because of
increased internal resistance. The reduced voltage under peak load
causes the protection circuitry to report lower capacity and turn
off the system. There may
be many watt-hours left, but the protection circuitry won't let you
have them. I've taken packs that wouldn't run a laptop for 10 minutes
and tested them at lower current. I got almost ALL of the original
watt-hours out. I've switched to testing individual cells for internal
resistance.

One symptom of this in older laptops is that the system reports 100%
charge and starts dropping normally down to some lower level,
like 40%, then jumps to near zero and the alarms go off. Depending on
the details of the protection, the laptop may run for another hour while
reporting near zero capacity.

It's quite possible to correct for much of this, but there
are at least three problems.
1) Vendors don't care if you have to buy a new battery...margins are
MUCH better. The higher the cost of the battery, the more likely
you'll buy a new laptop. I buy used laptops. The cost of a used
laptop with a good battery is less than the cost of a new battery.
2) Less complexity costs less and you'll buy the cheaper laptop.
3) Any deviation from the industry norm invites lawsuits if
something ever catches fire. Vendors are much more worried
about a multi-zillon dollar lawsuit than you being pissed
over a $100 battery.

So, the best test is one that simulates the usage.
For a laptop,
I keep the display on and play mp3's until it quits. How long it
runs is ultimately what matters.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Paint peeled in Microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/683e884e3e093758?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 7:41 am
From: Clueless

Hi all

In my microwave, under the turntable paint has peeled off in some
areas and the underlying metal is starting to rust.

Is there any hazard in using the Microwave in this condition?

If I wanted to repair it what sort of paint I should use?

The Microwave is about 3 years old and is out of warranty

--
Thanks for any help

ClueLess

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 8:55 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 20:11:41 +0530, Clueless
<clueless@wilderness.org.invalid> wrote:

>In my microwave, under the turntable paint has peeled off in some
>areas and the underlying metal is starting to rust.
>
>Is there any hazard in using the Microwave in this condition?

You're fine, as long as the paint doesn't vaporize and end up in the
food. Clean up any flakes with sandpaper. Also, look for signs of
arcing as that may have caused the paint to peel.

>If I wanted to repair it what sort of paint I should use?

Appliance enamel or appliance epoxy paint. If you're down to bare
metal, you'll need a primer coat. I use epoxy because it's harder.
I'm not sure which is the correct paint. Most vendors offer touch up
paint.
<http://www.ehow.com/how_7617498_repair-microwave-oven-paint.html>

>The Microwave is about 3 years old and is out of warranty

So much for quality.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 9:33 am
From: "Ian Field"

"Clueless" <clueless@wilderness.org.invalid> wrote in message
news:7hjt27hj6roml7ueg4tbgstf10smo9lmle@4ax.com...
> Hi all
>
> In my microwave, under the turntable paint has peeled off in some
> areas and the underlying metal is starting to rust.
>
> Is there any hazard in using the Microwave in this condition?

The only real danger is letting it rust through so the microwaves can leak
out and cook you.

Sand it down to clean metal and slap somr Hammerite paint on it.

My last microwave was rusting through the bottom so I kept a leakage warning
meter close at hand - the door mechanism/safety interlock failed before the
corroded case became dangerous.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 3:51 pm
From: GS

On Jul 26, 10:41 am, Clueless <cluel...@wilderness.org.invalid> wrote:
> Hi all
>
> In my microwave, under the turntable paint has peeled off in some
> areas and the underlying metal is starting to rust.
>
> Is there any hazard in using the Microwave in this condition?
>
> If I wanted to repair it what sort of paint I should use?
>
> The Microwave is about 3 years old and is out of warranty
>
> --
> Thanks for any help
>
> ClueLess

Just today I tried repairing a bathtub, or at least for the short
term. Used rust converter, then appliance epoxy spray paint. I used to
repair leaking stainless tanks with strips of aluminum glued down. It
would work in a microwave with the strip capacitively coupled to the
container.

Greg

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 4:45 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 20:11:41 +0530, Clueless
<clueless@wilderness.org.invalid> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>In my microwave, under the turntable paint has peeled off in some
>areas and the underlying metal is starting to rust.
>
>Is there any hazard in using the Microwave in this condition?
>
>If I wanted to repair it what sort of paint I should use?

See page 10-6 of the following catalogue:
http://www.wagner.net.au/catalogue/10_Microwave.pdf

There are plenty of sources for "Microwave Oven Cavity Touch-Up
Paint":
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22touch-up%22+microwave+paint+cavity

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Dos commands ( ver. 6.2)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d4d60dfb5c61c09b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 2:07 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> On Jul 5, 6:11 am, "Daniel Mandic" <daniel_man...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>>> I just installed a Dos program on my primary master drive thats
>>> running under Windows 98 and I would like to copy the entire program,
>>> that is the root directory and all its subdirectories into my slave
>>> drive to use as a backup. Does anyone know the proper Dos command
>>> including what switches to use so that the program will appear on the
>>> target drive just as it appears on the source drive? Thanks, Lenny
>> xcopy /s /e
>>
>> But I think you have to copy drawer by drawer. Xcopy should ask you if
>> it is a drawer or file you want to copy (when entering the xcopy
>> command and the right destination, e.g. xcopy c:\games d:\games /s /e -
>> you have to the type the destination drawer in order to get the proper
>> result), choose 'drawer' and it copies the drawer and any/all
>> subdirectories of the drawer...
>>
>> Anything other in the root (files without a drawer) can be copied with
>> 'copy *.*'
>>
>> Copying the whole partition at once is a backup-program IMO. Maybe
>> there is a DOS command available (MS-DOS Tool-Disk, supplemental disk,
>> probably) which can do so. There is a file-manager on the supplemental
>> disk! Freely available fromwww.microsoft.com!!
>>
>> --
>> Daniel Mandic
>
> Does this sound like a valid command:
> xcopy c:\WP51\*.* . /E /C /F /H /K d:\Wp51
>
> Lenny
If you add a backslash at the end, xcopy "knows" that it is a directory,
and proceeds without interruptions.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 3:20 pm
From: Robert Macy

On Jul 5, 2:51 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Jul 5, 6:11 am, "Daniel Mandic" <daniel_man...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> > > I just installed a Dos program on my primary master drive thats
> > > running under Windows 98 and I would like to copy the entire program,
> > > that is the root directory and all its subdirectories into my slave
> > > drive to use as a backup. Does anyone know the proper Dos command
> > > including what switches to use so that the program will appear on the
> > > target drive just as it appears on the source drive? Thanks, Lenny
>
> > xcopy /s /e
>
> > But I think you have to copy drawer by drawer. Xcopy should ask you if
> > it is a drawer or file you want to copy (when entering the xcopy
> > command and the right destination, e.g. xcopy c:\games d:\games /s /e -
> > you have to the type the destination drawer in order to get the proper
> > result), choose 'drawer' and it copies the drawer and any/all
> > subdirectories of the drawer...
>
> > Anything other in the root (files without a drawer) can be copied with
> > 'copy *.*'
>
> > Copying the whole partition at once is a backup-program IMO. Maybe
> > there is a DOS command available (MS-DOS Tool-Disk, supplemental disk,
> > probably) which can do so. There is a file-manager on the supplemental
> > disk! Freely available fromwww.microsoft.com!!
>
> > --
> > Daniel Mandic
>
> Does this sound like a valid command:
> xcopy c:\WP51\*.* . /E /C /F /H /K d:\Wp51
>
> Lenny

May work, but the usual is
source, destination, then the conditionals
xcopy c:\WP51\*.* d:\WP51\*.* /E /C /F /H /K
From memory, I had trouble xcopying filenames which contained blanks,
and other Windows 'normally accepted' characters.
the /E will keep the program copying and you may not notice a file is
missing,

but then again if the program is set up for DOS then all the names
probably are legitimate.

Regards,
Robert

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cinego D1000 Projector Overheating?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/658e4b6753d7d556?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 3:43 pm
From: "Peter Bogiatzidis"

Hello,

A friend of mine has an old Radio Shack Cinego D1000 projector with a
built-in DVD player that has recently started shutting down after 5 minutes
or so. We tried cleaning out any accumulated dust and also verified that all
three of the fans are working. The problem seems to be intermittent one
because when he first told me about this the projector started working okay
for a few weeks.

Does anyone here have any tips on what to check? I realize that it's an old
unit, but for the present time it's all he has available.

Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.

Peter.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 6:33 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Peter Bogiatzidis" <pbogi@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4e2f436f$0$3516$c3e8da3$12bcf670@news.astraweb.com...
> Hello,
>
> A friend of mine has an old Radio Shack Cinego D1000 projector with a
> built-in DVD player that has recently started shutting down after 5
> minutes or so. We tried cleaning out any accumulated dust and also
> verified that all three of the fans are working. The problem seems to be
> intermittent one because when he first told me about this the projector
> started working okay for a few weeks.
>
> Does anyone here have any tips on what to check? I realize that it's an
> old unit, but for the present time it's all he has available.
>
> Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.
>
> Peter.
>

I would think that bad joints, and bad electrolytic caps are the two prime
suspects. You can check for bad joints visually (if it's older than say 5
years, it will almost certainly be constructed with leaded solder and bad
joints will be easily spot-able) as well as by using an insulated tapping
instrument such as a ball point pen, or the butt end of a screwdriver for
more stubborn cases. A can of freezer, and a hair dryer can also be useful
tools for locating this sort of problem. Look / test especially around
devices that run at elevated temperatures such as power resistors, and any
power semiconductors either free-mounted, or attached to heatsinks.

Bad electros may reveal themselves by having bulging tops, and / or shrunken
or discoloured sleeves, and / or evidence of electrolyte leakage around
their bottom edge. However, just as commonly, there can be no visible cues
for a faulty one at all, in which case, the most useful diagnostic
instrument is an ESR meter. If looking for bad caps, first suspect any that
are located close to sources of heat, such as power resistors, or heatsinks.

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 6:36 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

Peter Bogiatzidis wrote:
> Hello,
>
> A friend of mine has an old Radio Shack Cinego D1000 projector with a
> built-in DVD player that has recently started shutting down after 5 minutes
> or so. We tried cleaning out any accumulated dust and also verified that all
> three of the fans are working. The problem seems to be intermittent one
> because when he first told me about this the projector started working okay
> for a few weeks.
>
> Does anyone here have any tips on what to check? I realize that it's an old
> unit, but for the present time it's all he has available.
>
> Thanks in advance to those who post a reply to the group.
>
> Peter.
>
>
Check the power supply for degraded capacitors,
and/or out of spec voltages.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Connect TV audio output to old stereo amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f9517efe346c55f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 4:05 pm
From: GS

On Jul 24, 1:01 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > I'd recommend trying the RCA jacks first. Most (many) have
> > circuitry that detects a connection and mutes the output. The
> > headphone jack is likely low impedance and as such won't
> > match the amplifer as well.
>
> There's no need for matched impedance.

Ahh, technology.

Had a Vizio 32 inch in living room. Front facing speakers, and I
hooked a little subwoofer, sounded
Decent.

Upgraded to a 40 inch, nice picture by the way even though it a Coby.
I spend about an hour trying to get any audio.
Finally figured out my cable box does not have full HDMI out .iwas
using a digital to HDMI cable, and separate audio in cable. I could
not do that on the Coby, had to use RGB and audio. Also it has no
audio line out. Must use optical out to amp. The big picture has like
most bottom or side speakers, sucks. I attached two cardboard
reflectors to get some good sound. Also no headphone output. I be
installing a optical feed in the future. I might finish my
entertainment room first, and that will have at least 3 tv's. The good
thing about using this IPAD, I can control multiple cable boxes in the
same room with comcasts app.

Greg

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 4:23 pm
From: GS

By the way, these color picture settings really suck. Way too much
color and contrast. What are they thinking?
I guess they look good in the show room. Maybe the better sets are
better. I got the Coby looking good in custom. It's like I go around
looking at different shows. Just like getting a good new set of
speakers, I got to go through my library of songs.

Greg

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 6:39 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:nr_Wp.58002$yn7.35261@newsfe20.ams2...
>
>
> "Peter2" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
> news:j0hfac$vmb$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>> "Al Moodie" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:g7eo27h3as1qp9ko77npqo6u978ug0gkht@4ax.com...
>>> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 07:47:59 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
>>> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>There's no reason you shouldn't connect the TV. You will definitely get
>>>>better sound. *
>>>>
>>>>See if the TV has a regular pair of RCA audio-output jacks, which you
>>>>should
>>>>use instead of the headphone jack. Regardless of which you use, there
>>>>will
>>>>be no need for voltage or impedance matching. (I don't know where you
>>>>got
>>>>your specs, but the TV does not have a 47K audio output impedance. It's
>>>>about 1/20 that.)
>>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for your response.
>>>
>>> I want to use the headphone jack for output because using the jack
>>> mutes the TVs speakers and allows me to control volume using the TV
>>> remote (the stereo amp does not have a remote).
>>>
>>> I assume this is just a cabling problem, headphone jack male split to
>>> RCA audio plugs.
>>>
>>> Al.
>>
>> I'd recommend trying the RCA jacks first. Most (many) have circuitry that
>> detects a connection and mutes the output. The headphone jack is likely
>> low impedance and as such won't match the amplifer as well.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Really? I've not heard of this function with an RCA socket, but I don't
> deal with much domestic audio equipment.
>
> Can you or someone post a link to how this works?
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Gareth.

Not sure I've ever seen any on a TV set, but phono (RCA) sockets with built
in mechanical switches are certainly to be found on some amps. One that
comes to mind is a big Yammy AV amp that uses them for the 5.1 discreet
inputs, I think. The switches go bad resulting in intermittent or missing
channels when it is working in 'normal' mode ...

Arfa

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 6:41 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

<PlainBill@yawhoo.com> wrote in message
news:nplo2719lrg5jpaghg40ltl8o8bekcb42c@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 10:15:13 -0400, Al Moodie <nospam@nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Not sure if this is the correct forum, but it is the only one I am
>>familiar with.
>>
>>I have an old audio system, Technics SU 8022 stereo amp attached to
>>large quaulity technics speakers, works fine.
>>Have a Sony Bravia LCD TV which has an audio output socket which I use
>>for headphones occasionally.
>>Does it make sense to attempt to connect the TV's audio output to the
>>Technics amp to get better sound quality.
>>
>>Sony TV Audio out:
>>500mVrms (100% modulation)
>>More than 1 Vrms at max volume setting
>>Impedance 47k ohms
>>
>>Technics amp input:
>>Phono 2.5mV 47k ohm
>>Aux 150mV 27k ohm
>>
>>I assume I will need some kind of voltage/impedance matching between
>>the two units.
>>
>>Al Moodie.
> There are several issues.
>
> First of all, do not use the phono input; it is designed for a
> magnetic cartridge, has RIAA equilization, and will seriously
> overamplify the bass frequencies.
>
> Second, I would spend some time reading the manual for the TV, and
> studying the function of the audio output RCA jacks. If they can be
> configured to suit your purposes, they would be preferable to the
> headphone jack.
>
> Third, you are setting up a situation where the TV will be turned
> off, but the amplifier will still be on. For a number of reasons,
> this is not desirable.
>
> PlainBill

My AV amp stays on all the time, and it doesn't cause me any problems ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Barco IQ Pro G500
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5f2f83b4a6cabf82?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jul 26 2011 5:43 pm
From: Jeff Urban

I am in possesion of two of these. They were removed from service at a
major university, and don't seem to be too beat up or anything, but if
you're familiar with these things you know that the lenses were sold
separately. They are missing the lenses. I don't know why, maybe they
fit something else, who knows.

I googled these up and find that they were quite expensive new. Who
knows what lenses cost, I am not going to put the kind of money into
them anyway. So I think getting them running is a lost cause. However
someone out there might still be using these things and I don't think
just throwing them out is the thing to do. I pulled one of the lamps
out of one (they have two each) and also found out that they are a bit
expensive. The one I pulled looks pretty good, not cloudy or anything,
but of course there is no way to tell the hours without the thing
running.

I would like to capitalise on these things, not ridiculous but I don't
want to take twenty bucks each either. There have got to be a bunch of
valuable parts in there. If not the lamps, the ballasts. Light engine.
I don't think they have line doublers or anything because an LCD, even
if it is HD..... who knows. Each also has a COA for Windows XP for
embedded systems. Do they perhaps have a harddrive ? RAM ?

This is what I would like to know. A hell of alot of technology was
involved in building these things and aside from the fact I would like
to make a few bucks, I would like to see them kept out of the
perpetual landfill here.

So anything you got on these things would be appreciated. A print and
or service manual would be great, google seems to fail me on that.

And if anyone wants to buy them, make me a non-insulting offer and we
can deal, but really unless you're near Cleveland, OH. it's probably
not worth it to buy them whole. Shipping would be a killer. But parts
are usually cheap to ship..........

Let me know.

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