sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Minolta DI551 printer - not dark enough on print
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca4d366f6119149f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 29 2011 10:22 pm
From: John Robertson

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 15:45:51 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The scan (B&W) has good density, and prints out just fine through
>> another of my printers.
>
> How does it print on the DI551 when you use the *COPY* button?

As I said, the print on the DI551 is poor quality, but the scan works fine.

>
>> Actually the Di551 is B&W only, no colours - if it was colour I'd be
>> more willing to sink some $$ into it.
>
> Sorry. I thought is was a color copier.
>
>> Turns out he machine hasn't had the 'kit' installed for perhaps 300K+
>> copies and so I can either sink $795 into an old B&W printer/copier or
>> get a much newer machine for $1500 that does colour and will even do
>> banners (up to 17" X 49").
>
> The $800 kit is probably a new drum, some rubber parts, a tech visit,
> and LOTS of cleaning. Did you shop around for the rebuild kit? Here's
> one for $390.
> <http://www.gmsupplies.com/Konica_Minolta_Maintenance_Kit__56AA-PM25/detail_3190.aspx>
> Here's one marginal kit for $175
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260807562475>
> Several more found with Google around $300-$400.
>
> Such copiers should run for well over 1 million copies. 300K pages is
> not old. If the overpriced $800 kit is your only option, I agree with
> getting the Oki printer. $1500 is cheap for color. You might want to
> calculate your operating costs per page as a sanity check. I smell
> something fishy, but I can't tell what is odd.
>

My printer had something like 1M5 copies over its' lifetime...one of the
main reasons to retire it after all.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: small battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a957cbd763fd227?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 29 2011 11:07 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"mike"
> tyel@att.net
>> Needing to find an way to power an device that 110 volt transformer in
>> put reduced to an 0.5 v -2a out put. Wanting to power this device from
>> an small battery. any thoughts how I can do this??? Thanks Rick
>
> I see it all the time, but I'm still amazed by the number of questions
> that show up here without the slightest hint of specification required
> to attempt a well-reasoned suggestion.
>
> This elicits the firestorm of suggestions followed by the
> inevitable name-calling fest. Are we having fun yet?
>
> My answer to your question is, "Can't be done."
> But that's according to MY definition of "small" and MY
> assumptions about run time.
>
> Perhaps, you could be influenced to disclose YOUR definitions
> of "small" and your desired run time.
> Did you really mean 0.5V -2A? and does that mean it's a current sink?
> or???
> What accuracy/stability is required?
>
> Reasonableness of the answer is highly dependent on the specificity
> of the question.
> Your question ain't got none.

** That 0.5 volts might just be AC too.

Makes the solution a bit more complicated...............

Shame how so many OPs post entirely in meaningless generalisations.

Means that is how they are thinking too.

..... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Word Perfect 5.1 for Dos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de8787fca0021f4e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jun 29 2011 11:33 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
computer's primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under
Win 98's Dos prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer? My
other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
so I can't install this on my new machine. So my other question is :
does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
age now or if it is still available at all? Thanks very much for any
assistance. Lenny

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 1:35 am
From: John Tserkezis

klem kedidelhopper wrote:

> Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under Win 98's Dos prompt?
> That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer?

I have no idea, (I'll guess yes) but a re-install on your '98 box
should answer that question fairly quickly.

> My other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
> which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
> so I can't install this on my new machine.

> So my other question is :
> does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
> age now or if it is still available at all?

I haven't seen any above-board downloads of WP51, but it's visible on
the torrents. Technically that's not legal but you can make up your own
mind about that.

However, upgrading is a very viable option.

Microsoft Word can be used with a WordPerfect file converter.
OpenOffice can READ WordPerfect files, but you'll have to save them in
another format.
Ditto for LibreOffice (the OpenOffice fork).

Microsoft options will cost money, OpenOffice and LibreOffice are all free.
Both Microsoft Word and Open/LibreOffice have a learning curve
associated with them, since they (well EVERYTHING) is so vastly
different to WP51.

There are probably some more options (WordPerfect is up to v11) but
that and just about all the other options might involve money, and all
will have a learning curve anyway.
--
Say it with flowers - Give her a triffid.

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 3:09 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
> operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
> files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
> on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
> completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
> primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
> primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
> computer's primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under
> Win 98's Dos prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer?

I've run it under Windows 7 CMD (replaced DOS prompt). I've never actually
installed WP5.1 since the first time, I've just copied the WP directory
over. It has been carried over on a sucession of computers from when I
first got it on a 286 running MS/DOS 3.3.

The latest one runs Windos 7, but Windows 98 was one step along the way.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Making your enemy reliant on software you support is the best revenge.

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 4:42 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I urge you to copy your files NOW -- right now -- before you do anything
else.

If I thought my hard drive were failing, I wouldn't be able to sleep until
everything was backed up.

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 5:34 am
From: Rich Webb

On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:35:35 +1000, John Tserkezis
<jt@techniciansyndrome.org.invalid> wrote:

>klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
>> I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
>> operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
>> files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
>> on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
>> completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
>> primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
>> primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
>> computer's primary.
>
>> Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under Win 98's Dos prompt?
>> That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer?
>
> I have no idea, (I'll guess yes) but a re-install on your '98 box
>should answer that question fairly quickly.
>
>> My other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
>> which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
>> so I can't install this on my new machine.
>
>> So my other question is :
>> does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
>> age now or if it is still available at all?
>
> I haven't seen any above-board downloads of WP51, but it's visible on
>the torrents. Technically that's not legal but you can make up your own
>mind about that.
>
> However, upgrading is a very viable option.
>
> Microsoft Word can be used with a WordPerfect file converter.
> OpenOffice can READ WordPerfect files, but you'll have to save them in
>another format.
> Ditto for LibreOffice (the OpenOffice fork).
>
> Microsoft options will cost money, OpenOffice and LibreOffice are all free.
> Both Microsoft Word and Open/LibreOffice have a learning curve
>associated with them, since they (well EVERYTHING) is so vastly
>different to WP51.
>
> There are probably some more options (WordPerfect is up to v11)

s/v11/v15/ although they label it "X5" because they got cold feet when
they moved to V13 (oooo scary) and started with the "X3" nonsense.

One interesting observation is that WP has retained the same file format
since version 6, unlike a certain other that insists on incompatible
file format changes with every version. It will save-as back to version
4, as well. Sadly, it wants WinXP and up so Win98 is right out.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 6:32 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

I enjoyed WP 5.1 and got very good at it.
Then they did the WYSIWYG interface. I suppose that was
nice, but it got in the way of actually doing the more
important stuff.

If I remember correctly, the discs just had everything
you needed to copy onto your hard drive. Not like the
intrusive drives and .dll files and registry stuff that
is required with the windows environment.

You should be able to just copy everything over to a
new hard drive on the win98 system. And of course twiddle
a bit with the autoexec and sysinfo files and be good to
go.

I run a pair of Win98 SE systems specifically for dealing
with a bunch of MS-DOS legacy programs.

Jeff

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:34 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:33:40 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
<captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote:

>I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
>operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
>files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
>on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
>completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
>primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
>primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
>computer's primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under
>Win 98's Dos prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer? My
>other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
>which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
>so I can't install this on my new machine. So my other question is :
>does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
>age now or if it is still available at all? Thanks very much for any
>assistance. Lenny

Several issues here.

WP5.1 will run on Win98se, WinME, W2K, and XP. The biggest problem is
getting the printer drivers to cooperate. There is a setting to use
the Windoze drivers instead of the WP print drivers. That's the easy
way and works, but you loose some formatting features. I have a
customer with WP5.1 on a WinME system, so I presume that Win98 should
work. There's nothing to install. Just copy it over to the new
drive.

This might help:
"WordPerfect for DOS Updated"
<http://www.columbia.edu/~em36/wpdos/>

Juggling hard drives with a failing hard disk drive is a guaranteed
way of trashing the failing drive. Just moving the machine is a risk.
Copy off what you can immediately, and figure out what you're going to
do with it later. I suggest:
<http://www.restorer2000.com>
for a recovery tool. $30/$50/$70 depending on features.

WP is owned by Corel and is not freeware.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:28 am
From: Wond

On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:33:40 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:

> I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
> operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
> files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
> on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
> completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
> primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's primary
> hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second computer's
> primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under Win 98's Dos
> prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer? My other problem
> is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and which is also
> presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and so I can't
> install this on my new machine. So my other question is : does anyone
> know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its age now or if
> it is still available at all? Thanks very much for any assistance. Lenny

There is a program available on the web, "Yeah Write", which has a free
version and imports WP51. Worth having a peek.

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 9:07 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

If a given piece of software does what you want, and isn't unduly difficult
to use, there's little point in switching.

But...

Last year I started writing screenplays. "Final Draft" costs about $250, and
the current version won't run under W2K. *

So I sat down and created an Word for Windows template using
industry-standard formatting. It took little time and works well.

Perhaps it's the time to switch to Word for Windows -- at the expense, of
course, of having to create new template(s) and convert existing files to
the new format. (Word recognizes WP 5.1 format.)

* "Final Draft" supposedly formats as you type. When writing a script,
that's the least of my worries.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Converting 1960s Fender amp for 240V UK use
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8121797246a1f45?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 2:27 am
From: "N_Cook"

Of course the owner wants it to be as original as possible or at least
retrievable. I've convinced him that a fully bonded earth point to the
chassis is absolutely necessary for use in the UK, no getting away from
that.
Hopefully the US mains cable rubber insulation will be perished and will
need replacing anyway so would then be 3 core.
He definitely does not want the step down transformer mounted in the cab,
but external .
But if original US mains cable and US plug retained.
I'm thinking earthing coloured multistrand flexible third cable run
alongside the US cable with black heatshrink over the near-enough whole
length. The problem is what connector to use for reliable earth continuity
to the step down Tx and UK mains cable and how to make a mechanical
interlock, in effect, so the amp cannot be run without the third wire
connected.
Then what to do with the original "ground" switch ? presumably disconnect
but leave in place internally .
Do US three pin variant outlet, purpose made, step down transformers exist
in the UK, I only ever see 2 pin outlet ones. Assuming he can tolerate
swapping, but retaining with the amp, the ancient 2 pin plug.

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 2:59 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

N_Cook wrote:
> Of course the owner wants it to be as original as possible or at least
> retrievable. I've convinced him that a fully bonded earth point to the
> chassis is absolutely necessary for use in the UK, no getting away from
> that.
> Hopefully the US mains cable rubber insulation will be perished and will
> need replacing anyway so would then be 3 core.
> He definitely does not want the step down transformer mounted in the cab,
> but external .
> But if original US mains cable and US plug retained.
> I'm thinking earthing coloured multistrand flexible third cable run
> alongside the US cable with black heatshrink over the near-enough whole
> length. The problem is what connector to use for reliable earth continuity
> to the step down Tx and UK mains cable and how to make a mechanical
> interlock, in effect, so the amp cannot be run without the third wire
> connected.
> Then what to do with the original "ground" switch ? presumably disconnect
> but leave in place internally .
> Do US three pin variant outlet, purpose made, step down transformers exist
> in the UK, I only ever see 2 pin outlet ones. Assuming he can tolerate
> swapping, but retaining with the amp, the ancient 2 pin plug.

I live in Israel and have the same problem all the time. First of all, the
transformers you buy in the shops in plastic cases are junk. They are
rated in VA and sold as if that were Watts, so you never get the size you
need.

They almost never carry the ground through.

They are also autotransformers, not real transformers, so they do NOT provide
any isolation.

Luckilly we have a guy here who makes transformers. He is not cheap, but he
will make one to specification.

What you want is:

1. A True transformer (no connection of any sort to the mains,
i.e. isolation).

2. Ground carried through, i.e. the grounding pin of the 120 volt socket
is directly connected with a decent sized wire to the grounding pin
of the mains plug.

3. A easilly accessable fuse socket in the secondary (120 volt side).

4. At least 50% more than the maximum current draw rating if in real Watts
and DOUBLE if VA. Note that maximum is not always the rated value.

5. Since US equipment made in now is designed for 127 volts, not 115 or 120,
the ratio should be adjusted for a slightly higher output than 2:1
(240/130 instead of 240/120).
1950's equipment would be better off with a slightly lower ratio
(240/115 or 240/110) and heaivly motorized equipment (mentioned for
compelteness) should be lower (240/110 or 240/100 for compressors)
because of the different power factor.

BTW, if you've never done this type of work before, be careful about the
voltages, replace all the capacitors and buy yourself a large bottle of
DE-OXIT and a bunch of toothpicks (to apply it).

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Making your enemy reliant on software you support is the best revenge.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 4:19 am
From: "N_Cook"

Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnj0oi6i.sro.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
> N_Cook wrote:
> > Of course the owner wants it to be as original as possible or at least
> > retrievable. I've convinced him that a fully bonded earth point to the
> > chassis is absolutely necessary for use in the UK, no getting away from
> > that.
> > Hopefully the US mains cable rubber insulation will be perished and will
> > need replacing anyway so would then be 3 core.
> > He definitely does not want the step down transformer mounted in the
cab,
> > but external .
> > But if original US mains cable and US plug retained.
> > I'm thinking earthing coloured multistrand flexible third cable run
> > alongside the US cable with black heatshrink over the near-enough whole
> > length. The problem is what connector to use for reliable earth
continuity
> > to the step down Tx and UK mains cable and how to make a mechanical
> > interlock, in effect, so the amp cannot be run without the third wire
> > connected.
> > Then what to do with the original "ground" switch ? presumably
disconnect
> > but leave in place internally .
> > Do US three pin variant outlet, purpose made, step down transformers
exist
> > in the UK, I only ever see 2 pin outlet ones. Assuming he can tolerate
> > swapping, but retaining with the amp, the ancient 2 pin plug.
>
> I live in Israel and have the same problem all the time. First of all, the
> transformers you buy in the shops in plastic cases are junk. They are
> rated in VA and sold as if that were Watts, so you never get the size you
> need.
>
> They almost never carry the ground through.
>
> They are also autotransformers, not real transformers, so they do NOT
provide
> any isolation.
>
> Luckilly we have a guy here who makes transformers. He is not cheap, but
he
> will make one to specification.
>
> What you want is:
>
> 1. A True transformer (no connection of any sort to the mains,
> i.e. isolation).
>
> 2. Ground carried through, i.e. the grounding pin of the 120 volt socket
> is directly connected with a decent sized wire to the grounding pin
> of the mains plug.
>
> 3. A easilly accessable fuse socket in the secondary (120 volt side).
>
> 4. At least 50% more than the maximum current draw rating if in real Watts
> and DOUBLE if VA. Note that maximum is not always the rated value.
>
> 5. Since US equipment made in now is designed for 127 volts, not 115 or
120,
> the ratio should be adjusted for a slightly higher output than 2:1
> (240/130 instead of 240/120).
> 1950's equipment would be better off with a slightly lower ratio
> (240/115 or 240/110) and heaivly motorized equipment (mentioned for
> compelteness) should be lower (240/110 or 240/100 for compressors)
> because of the different power factor.
>
> BTW, if you've never done this type of work before, be careful about the
> voltages, replace all the capacitors and buy yourself a large bottle of
> DE-OXIT and a bunch of toothpicks (to apply it).
>
> Geoff.
>
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> Making your enemy reliant on software you support is the best revenge.

All original inside except one resistor. 1964 Twin Reverb. I see US 3 pin
outlet auto transformers are available.
But owner wants to retain the moulded , sorry molded, 2 pin plug. All I can
think of is making a 2 part shroud that fits overe the existing plug and
includes a third earthing pin to mate with the 3 pin outlet, also retaining
polarisation for added safety (assuming anyone rewiring the UK main plug in
the future , wires it correctly).
Third wire under heatshrink and bonded to the chassis mounted 110V outlet ,
removing the PK and replacing with a bolt and lock nut/star washer inside.
Some sort of shrouding over the earth /chassis bond and exposed stub of
wire.
I'll try and convince him to go for isolating rather than auto but the
original 2 pin plug plus grounding pin union problem remains.

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 4:24 am
From: "N_Cook"

I really want to be able to condemn the mains lead. But the internal exposed
sheathing looks fine, how to non-destructively check for internally mangled
insulation or wiring filaments inside the cable strain relief?

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 4:40 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 6/30/2011 6:24 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> I really want to be able to condemn the mains lead.

You could, of course, tell him to take it elsewhere
because you're not going to be involved in him killing
himself.

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:02 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I see Jeffrey A offers a good solution, same as what I'd generally tell a
friend, even.

If the amp is so valuable to him, he should have it insured and not be using
it.. and buy a display case to protect it.

A proper step-down isolating transformer (not auto transformer buck types)
would allow 120VAC operation, just the way it was made.
Amp and guitar isolated.

As long as the users of the amp don't plug in any line-operated
accessories/equipment (patch to mixers etc) the amp should operate
flawlessly.
Any accessories (pedals etc) added between the guitar and amp should be
battery powered only.
Battery only.
No exceptions.

So.. a 5-6A? capacity (see the amp's fuse rating) 240 to 120 step-down
isolation transformer (no 3/third wire BS for the amp) with only 1 single,
2-blade 120VAC outlet.
The single 120VAC outlet is a factor because idiots will start plugging more
crap into it.

If the user has any problems (likely to be self-induced), he can take it up
with the manufacturer of the isolation transformer..
and he should be informed of this, as his only option.

Or.. pull the amp chassis out of the case, and install a properly grounded
240VAC amp chassis in it's place.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:iuhfek$65a$1@dont-email.me...
> Of course the owner wants it to be as original as possible or at least
> retrievable. I've convinced him that a fully bonded earth point to the
> chassis is absolutely necessary for use in the UK, no getting away from
> that.
> Hopefully the US mains cable rubber insulation will be perished and will
> need replacing anyway so would then be 3 core.
> He definitely does not want the step down transformer mounted in the cab,
> but external .
> But if original US mains cable and US plug retained.
> I'm thinking earthing coloured multistrand flexible third cable run
> alongside the US cable with black heatshrink over the near-enough whole
> length. The problem is what connector to use for reliable earth continuity
> to the step down Tx and UK mains cable and how to make a mechanical
> interlock, in effect, so the amp cannot be run without the third wire
> connected.
> Then what to do with the original "ground" switch ? presumably disconnect
> but leave in place internally .
> Do US three pin variant outlet, purpose made, step down transformers exist
> in the UK, I only ever see 2 pin outlet ones. Assuming he can tolerate
> swapping, but retaining with the amp, the ancient 2 pin plug.
>
>

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:18 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeffrey Angus <jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
news:iuhnaq$idm$1@dont-email.me...
> On 6/30/2011 6:24 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> > I really want to be able to condemn the mains lead.
>
> You could, of course, tell him to take it elsewhere
> because you're not going to be involved in him killing
> himself.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> --
> "Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

A possible face-saving route. Release the tethered 2 part mains cable strain
relief, bend the cable back and forth at that strain point enough times and
let the owner feel the floppy section. Then 3 core can go in place.

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 9:47 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <iui4b7$b5h$1@dont-email.me>, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

> Jeffrey Angus <jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote in message
> news:iuhnaq$idm$1@dont-email.me...
> > On 6/30/2011 6:24 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> > > I really want to be able to condemn the mains lead.
> >
> > You could, of course, tell him to take it elsewhere
> > because you're not going to be involved in him killing
> > himself.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > --
> > "Everything from Crackers to Coffins"
>
>
> A possible face-saving route. Release the tethered 2 part mains cable strain
> relief, bend the cable back and forth at that strain point enough times and
> let the owner feel the floppy section. Then 3 core can go in place.

Doesn't sound like you, deliberately sabotaging and destroying
customer-owned equipment, as a means of coercion. Either set it up the
way the customer wants, or walk away from the job based on your safety
concerns.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: WHAT TO SEE IN INDIA TOUR - ENJOY YOUR TOUR PROGRAM - TOUR GUIDE
AVAILABLE CLICK HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d441f5c9b6b4843?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 6:09 am
From: ilavarasi vithya

http://chennaitourism4u.blogspot.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Benefits of LED Lightening
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b79f101db1d33f9b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:28 am
From: nesesu

On Jun 26, 11:06 pm, "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildb...@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:
> What the eco-parrot-puppets fail to recognize is that manufacturing the
> plastics and components for the new technology LED lighting, create a lot of
> pollutants.. and uses considerable energy.
>
> There is no wasted heat from incandescent lamps during the colder months
> which is over 6 months per year in some locations. Where does that make-up
> heat come from?
>
> The new LED lamps have one purpose.. to separate you from your money.
>
> The new 100W screw-in LED replacements are supposed to be widely available
> this year and are expected to cost about $40-50 each.
>
> Incandescent 100W lamps are maybe 40-50 Cents each.. and they're being
> banned in the US later this year.
> It's for your own good.. don't worry.
>
> Oohhhh.. but the LEDs they last like, almost forever.
> Sure they will, manufactured with the cheapest components available, made as
> cheaply as possible.. with Lead-Free solder.
> Most likely manufactured in a country that has been opening new coal-burning
> power plants at a rate of one new plant every week.
> It's not a democratic country/society, and they're not even christians, fer
> christs sake.
>
> I have yet to get more than about 2 years from those 5-7 year CF lamps. The
> CFs insure rampant pollution by spreading mercury and more electronic waste.
>
> I haven't seen many LEDs that give off white light, some are bluish, others
> kinda red.
>
> LEDs appear to be extremely bright when you look directly into them, well,
> the lens that makes up the body.. so they make great indicators for
> appliances or electronic devices, but that's not the same as trying to
> illuminate a room with LEDs.
> Without the proper reflectors, even high-power 3W LEDs don't "throw" light
> very effectively.
>
> You can believe it.. LED lamps will be the salvation of the human race..
> aren't we there yet?
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
> "Barb McHaugh" <jannet...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:7810c925-ae31-4181-b8c7-f5ad4e579aad@l2g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > [url=http://www.solunagreen.com/]LED lights [/url] are a wonderful
> > invention that has changed the way the world is lit. Not only are they
> > long lasting, they have many environmental benefits. LED lights are
> > four times more efficient than a regular incandescent light bulb and
> > last 10 times as long. LED lights also use between 50 and 80 percent
> > less energy than an incandescent bulb.By switching to low energy LED
> > home lighting in your home, even one bulb will keep one half of a ton
> > of carbon dioxide out of the atmosphere through the lifetime of the
> > bulb instead of using incandescent bulbs. Switching also keeps sulfur
> > oxide and nuclear waste out of the atmosphere as well, leading to a
> > cleaner world and one that will last much longer.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well, in a new super-market that was built in town last year they used
the "new" LED strip lighting in the freezer display cases and they
only come on when someone is in the aisle near by. This seemed like a
good idea since the usual fluorescent lamps do not work that well in
the cold and the heat they produce has to be pumped out of the
freezer. Within two weeks of opening, all the strips had to be
replaced due to "a manufacturing error" and I noticed a couple of days
ago that about 1/3 of the 100 or so strips have some sort of defect
such as all or large groups of LEDs not working. Like you say, it
looks like poor quality shabby quality product.

Neil S.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Convert Tuner to Batteries?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0ac9d8f25222e77c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:28 am
From: KenO

Would like to convert a component AM/FM Tuner to batteries.

Was told about the Sony Tuners with System Control that are DC only
and found a ST-JX 235 but not the integrated amp that has the AC power
supply.

Does anyone know if there is a free schematic avail for this tuner on
the internet?

Did a quick search using Sony HCD-551 and SA-W551 but only found Sony
Original Service Manual HCD551 / HCD-551 http://www.qservice.tv/VPASP/shopexd.asp?id=5249
for $14.99

All I want is the DC Voltage for the Tuner so not to destroy anything.

When opened the tuner and inspected the System Control connector and
attached small PC board noticed that it was marked N9V.

Does this mean that the Voltage to the Tuner is 9V?

Am open to any suggestions or tips.

Thanks

Ken

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:23 am
From: "N_Cook"

KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d83844e5-ccf7-4073-bdb4-1a33fcc19ee1@v10g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> Would like to convert a component AM/FM Tuner to batteries.
>
> Was told about the Sony Tuners with System Control that are DC only
> and found a ST-JX 235 but not the integrated amp that has the AC power
> supply.
>
> Does anyone know if there is a free schematic avail for this tuner on
> the internet?
>
> Did a quick search using Sony HCD-551 and SA-W551 but only found Sony
> Original Service Manual HCD551 / HCD-551
http://www.qservice.tv/VPASP/shopexd.asp?id=5249
> for $14.99
>
> All I want is the DC Voltage for the Tuner so not to destroy anything.
>
> When opened the tuner and inspected the System Control connector and
> attached small PC board noticed that it was marked N9V.
>
> Does this mean that the Voltage to the Tuner is 9V?
>
> Am open to any suggestions or tips.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ken

The JX230 is bridge Rect to 22V then regulated to 15 and 5V , probably loose
the lamp drive if 15V only and would need separate 5V regulator if 15V DC
supply

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 9:16 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> The JX230 is bridge Rect to 22V then regulated to 15
> and 5V, probably loose the lamp drive if 15V only and
> would need separate 5V regulator if 15V DC supply.

Would you /please/ learn how to write coherently?

"The JX230 is a bridge rectifier with 22V output. It is regulated to 15V and
5V.

"Whether a 15V battery pack will work depends on how well the tuner
tolerates a drop in voltage as the batteries discharge. It it's not
tolerant, you'll need a higher voltage and a 15V regulator.

"Either way, a 5V regulator could be used to power whatever uses 5V."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: No remote control? Fixable?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d9bb7630abdbb00e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:52 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 21:18:43 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

>My Philips DVDR, model DVDR3576H (160 GB), only 3 years old, stopped
>responding to my remote.

Replacement remotes are commonly available. Google is your friend:
<http://www.philips.newremotecontrol.com/catalog_item.php?catnum=996510003026>
<http://cgi.ebay.com/380323646523>
Probably also available from other vendors, ebay, Amazon, etc.

>Replaced the batteries. No better.

Find a digital camera. Point it at the remote and press some buttons.
Do you see the LED's flash? If not, it's dead. If yes, it's not the
remote.
<http://www.wikihow.com/Check-if-a-Remote-Control-is-Transmitting-an-Infrared-Signal>

One posting mumbled that it might be the IR receiver:
<http://www.justanswer.com/electronics/3ikm1-philips-dvdr3576h-37-recorder-its-remote-no-longer-communicate.html>
Since it sorta works with the universal remote, this is unlikely.

You might also have some programming issue as the remote MIGHT support
two different DVR's (A/B). See manual for details (I'm too lazy to
read it).

>(The remote has nothing
>to do with any logic circuits that can get confused, anyhow, right?)

Wrong. The A/B problem is common.

>Is this fixable at a reasaonable price, or even under 100?

$12 to $25 for a replacement remote.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cordless phone battery pack
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3e30b6d78d33668?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 9:43 am
From: Puddin' Man

I've a RS 5.8ghz cordless phone with a dead battery pack:
D-AA600BX3 DC 3.6V 600mAh

Replacement battery-packs at DC 3.6V aren't too expensive, but I've not seen
any at exactly 600mAh. Is this critical? Would, say, 800mAh work OK? Pardon
my lack of knowledge.

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

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