sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: CRT TV repair, power supply defect.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d4c2d93f9d169dcb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Sep 17 2011 11:57 pm
From: jango2

What happens if you use a video source that's portable, runs of
batteries, and isn't connected to mains or anything else (such as a
portable dvd player)?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 2:09 am
From: jango2

On Sep 18, 11:57 am, jango2 <crow_slap...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> What happens if you use a video source that's portable, runs of
> batteries, and isn't connected to mains or anything else (such as a
> portable dvd player)?

off*

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where do I find rechargeable batteries?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9444fff861b4d63a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 1:12 am
From: E. Normark Sørensen

Google is filled with firms offering standard rechargeable batteries, but
not those I need.
Can anyone give me a hint, where I can find cells length 34mm and diameter
22,2 mm

regards

Ebbe

normark(x)@c.dk
remove (X)

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 1:58 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"E. Normark Sørensen"

** Is that Swedish for Alfred E. Neumann ?

> Google is filled with firms offering standard rechargeable batteries, but
> not those I need.
>
> Can anyone give me a hint, where I can find cells length 34mm and diameter
> 22,2 mm

** That size is known as 4/5 Sub C.

Probably only ever available in NiCd - Sanyo and others made them.

Some Sanyo dealers may have stock left - my local one in Sydney has some.

Look for Sanyo brand:

N - 1250 SCRL or

CP - 1700 SCR

Cost between $5 and $6 each, one off.

.... Phil

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 2:43 am
From: E. Normark Sørensen

Thank you for the information. I will give it a try.
No - I am Ebbe Normark Sørensen and I am danish. We are used to be mixed
with the swedes, but they have a king and we have quen. And then we hate
them in football (or soccer)
regards
Ebbe

"Phil Allison" skrev i meddelelsen news:9dlq65Fs44U1@mid.individual.net...

"E. Normark Sørensen"

** Is that Swedish for Alfred E. Neumann ?

> Google is filled with firms offering standard rechargeable batteries, but
> not those I need.
>
> Can anyone give me a hint, where I can find cells length 34mm and diameter
> 22,2 mm

** That size is known as 4/5 Sub C.

Probably only ever available in NiCd - Sanyo and others made them.

Some Sanyo dealers may have stock left - my local one in Sydney has some.

Look for Sanyo brand:

N - 1250 SCRL or

CP - 1700 SCR

Cost between $5 and $6 each, one off.

.... Phil

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 3:26 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"E. Normark Sørensen"

> Thank you for the information. I will give it a try.
> No - I am Ebbe Normark Sørensen and I am danish. We are used to be mixed
> with the swedes, but they have a king and we have quen. And then we hate
> them in football (or soccer)
> regards
> Ebbe

** The numbers I supplied give multiple hits on Google.

Even Digikey have some.

The Alfred E. Neuman joke was irresistible.

FYI:

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJoSuZQ1RX24_qOr0OMEgAUtKjSczrHb21COXtY15RrXJXdsFijJl1_ujFg74oW-YEW1RGkRqSqFtyzCvTSrBhMvI46NToWsXcHL_d4wu8DgzpqUve6Jejts-gwAuBUWM_TaYuR4h4ZTY/s1600/alfred_e_neuman_2a.jpg

.... Phil

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 7:59 am
From: John-Del

On Sep 18, 6:26 am, "Phil Allison"
>
> The Alfred E. Neuman joke was irresistible.
>

>
> .... Phil

I can't see how....

You haven't seen him, so you don't know what he looks like. Other
than than the single initial "E" (not even a middle initial), what's
the connection?

Your diatribes are unintentionally funny, but your "jokes" aren't.
Stick to what you do best: trolling....

John

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 4:16 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"John-Del"

I can't see how....

** Gone blind from wanking ?

Piss off.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Make Money Online (Without Spending a Dime)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26061b62c9feb32e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 8:30 am
From: "samrasamira87@yahoo.fr"

Make Money Online (Without Spending a Dime) GO TO https://www.arbia.webs.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: stupid, stupid, stupid -- part II
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/579c7eaa91ffc061?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 9:30 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Following up on Arfa's self-mockery...

The Sony D-FJ75TR is a classic Discman. A very-low-drain two-AA-cell player
that runs about 25 hours on high-capacity NiMH cells, it can be literally
slammed into a soft surface without skipping -- and that's with the skip
protection turned off! Its remote control -- about the volume of the average
person's thumb -- includes an excellent AM/stereo-FM digital tuner, a model
of modern miniaturization. (If you come across one, treat yourself to the
pleasure of opening it up and inspecting it.) It even has a hybrid mini jack
with electrical and optical outputs.

The D-FJ75TR was perhaps the last of Sony's "really good" Discmans. I've
therefore collected spares. A recent eBay auction had one for $10, including
the remote control (the unit's best feature, and often missing). With
shipping, I got it for $16.50. * The seller said the tuner wouldn't
auto-program, but he was wrong -- it worked fine. (The manual is thoroughly
confusing.)

Anyhow...

After stepping outside to program the tuner with Seattle's stations, I
brought it back in and set it on my desk. Or so I thought. When I left for
Intel Monday morning, I couldn't find it. I spent a few minutes looking,
then gave up and left. It gnawed at me all week, and the first thing I did
when coming home Saturday was to search for it. Did I actually leave it on
the stairs? Or in the garage? Perhaps it was under the pile of junk that has
taken over my bed.

The problem wasn't the $16.50 -- or even the loss of the spare parts. It was
the apparent encroaching senility. Why can't I remember where I put things?
**

I'd looked repeatedly on my desk -- where the Discman & remote should have
been -- but couldn't find them. Were they under the pizza pan? Nope.

About an hour ago I decided to have a pizza -- a hearty, stick-to-the-ribs
breakfast. When I lifted a plastic shopping bag off the aforementioned pizza
pan -- there was the Discman and its remote. It was on my desk all along.
The pan was sufficiently warped that the player could "hide" under the bag
where it wouldn't be seen. Naughty Discman -- naughty Discman!

The best advice I can give anyone who's mislaid something is... If you can't
find it in a few minutes, stop looking. It almost always shows up
unexpectedly where you never thought it could be.

* The AC-E455 power supply -- perhaps the most-common wall wart in
existence -- was also included. (I now have a drawerful of them.) Sony made
a universal switching version of this supply. If you want one of either, I
can send you one for $15, shipping included.

** One trick I've learned is to say -- out loud -- "I'm putting object A in
place B" as you do so. And when you find a lost object... Never, never,
NEVER move it until you're ready to put it in its final resting place.

--
"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right
questions." -- Edwin Land

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony TV remote
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2e883b52d92cffcc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 9:47 am
From: Al Moodie

Hi,

I have a sony KDL-40S2010 LCD TV, it works just fine. However the
remote RM YD005 is failing again. It works but you have to use extra
force and wiggle the buttons to get it to operate. Poorest operation
is with buttons which are used most often, Mute, Volume, Channel
change, so I assume is is wear or contamination problem.

Last time I bought a replacement on EBay for $18 or thereabouts. I can
always buy another, but can it be fixed, is it worth the work

Al Moodie.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 10:04 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

If you can get it open without destroying it (good luck!), a thorough
cleaning might do the trick.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 10:45 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Sep 18, 9:47 am, Al Moodie <nos...@nospam.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a sony KDL-40S2010 LCD TV, it works just fine. However the
> remote RM YD005 is failing again. It works but you have to use
extra
> force and wiggle the buttons to get it to operate. Poorest
operation
> is with buttons which are used most often, Mute, Volume, Channel
> change, so I assume is is wear or contamination problem.
>
> Last time I bought a replacement on EBay for $18 or thereabouts. I
can
> always buy another, but can it be fixed, is it worth the work
>
> Al Moodie.

I've opened them up to clean out krud that gets in and it can be
GROSS. Don't eat while using remotes and wash your hands. And yes,
they do work properly again provided the carbon on the rubber button
backside is still present. The goo and pressure can ruin them.

G²

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 11:53 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 18 Sep 2011 12:47:51 -0400, Al Moodie <nospam@nospam.com>
wrote:

>I have a sony KDL-40S2010 LCD TV, it works just fine. However the
>remote RM YD005 is failing again. It works but you have to use extra
>force and wiggle the buttons to get it to operate. Poorest operation
>is with buttons which are used most often, Mute, Volume, Channel
>change, so I assume is is wear or contamination problem.
>
>Last time I bought a replacement on EBay for $18 or thereabouts. I can
>always buy another, but can it be fixed, is it worth the work

If it's still mostly functional, tearing it apart and cleaning the
guts will revive it. Open it up, remove all the food crumbs, and wash
off the mold and fungus accumulation. I use 409 cleaner, which seems
to work well. Dry with a clean paper towel.

The conductive rubber elastometric buttons will probably need to be
cleaned slightly. The easiest way is to spray from 409 cleaner onto a
sheet of 20lb paper, plop the rubber buttons down on the paper, push
each button into the paper, and slight SLIGHTLY sideways. You want to
just scub off the surface crud, not sandpaper the conductive coating
into non-functionality.

On the PCB side, you'll see the matching gold contacts for each
button. This also needs to be cleaned. Lint free cloth (not paper
towel), some more 409 spray cleaner, rub-a-dub, and let dry.

Put it back together and it should work.

Some really marginal videos on how to fix your remote:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBBJlGFUWv0> <-- good
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwzsNeoMSgk>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuyRyTdvDYw>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvJWqf_b6Eo>
... about 6 more.
Ignore the one suggesting you use tin foil and scotch tape to repair
the rubber elastometric buttons.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bruel + Kjaer 2203 service data?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24387839e3767216?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 10:55 am
From: Dave Bullock

Hi everyone....
I am looking for service information for a Bruel and Kjaer Sound Level
Meter type 2203.
The one I have has the Serial No. 887512 and so is a late version with
a FET (rather than thermionic tube/valve) front end. Plus silicon
transistors throughout and a couple of what look like Op-Amps.
I have contacted B+K and they no longer support this model or have any
service data in their archive.
Someone in service-land must have data for this SLM.
Please check your bottom drawer and help me if you can.
Thanks in anticipation
Dave

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 12:07 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Sep 18, 10:55 am, Dave Bullock <davebullock...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi everyone....
> I am looking for service information for a Bruel and Kjaer Sound Level
> Meter type 2203.
> The one I have has the Serial No. 887512 and so is a late version with
> a FET (rather than thermionic tube/valve) front end. Plus silicon
> transistors throughout and a couple of what look like Op-Amps.
> I have contacted B+K and they no longer support this model or have any
> service data in their archive.
> Someone in service-land must have data for this SLM.
> Please check your bottom drawer and help me if you can.
> Thanks in anticipation
> Dave

Cruel and Bizaere?

If no answer, try a forum that relates to audioacoustics, or one that
reaches calibration lab types.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: splice fail
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cae74cda683b83fa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 12:25 pm
From: newb

My Sennheiser HD 202 headphones developed a short in one channel about ~8" from the plug. I cut the wire before and afterwards, joined the wire, tested and didn't experience any sound. I disconnected the splice and attached the bear wires from one side of the headphones to a pair of wires entering a speaker on my home system. No sound. I cut another 10" off and tested that section for resistance - that failed (all 4 wires joined on both sides of the 10" section). The phones aren't designed with maintenance in mind so I can't do a resistance test at the speaker ends.

Maybe this has something to do with the wire used in the headphones. There are two pairs (red/copper, green/copper) of stranded copper wrapped around nylon fibers. Does this type of wire have a proper name or require special considerations when splicing?

Was attaching these wires onto my home speaker out a valid test? Ugh, splice fail ... I'm not a 10 year old girl but today I feel like one ....

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 2:15 pm
From: "Charles"

"newb" wrote in message
news:9461012.1621.1316373948844.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prgd31...

My Sennheiser HD 202 headphones developed a short in one channel about ~8"
from the plug. I cut the wire before and afterwards, joined the wire,
tested and didn't experience any sound. I disconnected the splice and
attached the bear wires from one side of the headphones to a pair of wires
entering a speaker on my home system. No sound. I cut another 10" off
and tested that section for resistance - that failed (all 4 wires joined on
both sides of the 10" section). The phones aren't designed with
maintenance in mind so I can't do a resistance test at the speaker ends.

Maybe this has something to do with the wire used in the headphones. There
are two pairs (red/copper, green/copper) of stranded copper wrapped around
nylon fibers. Does this type of wire have a proper name or require special
considerations when splicing?

Was attaching these wires onto my home speaker out a valid test? Ugh,
splice fail ... I'm not a 10 year old girl but today I feel like one ....

1/ how did you determine that it was a short and the distance from the plug?
By flexing? Could have been an open ... more likely.
2/ speakers need more current than headphones ... probably not a valid test.
3/ stereo headphones ... four wires.
4/ some ten year old girls can fix this for you!

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 4:34 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <j55n1l$ep0$1@dont-email.me>,
Charles <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:

>Maybe this has something to do with the wire used in the headphones. There
>are two pairs (red/copper, green/copper) of stranded copper wrapped around
>nylon fibers. Does this type of wire have a proper name or require special
>considerations when splicing?

I've heard it referred to as "tinsel wire". Sennheiser is well-known
for using it. This sort of wire is not trivial to solder
successfully... something about the insulation on the individual (very
fine) strands, I believe.

If I recall correctly, you have to either remove the insulation via a
nasty chemical stripper, or tin the wires by dipping the strand into a
solder pot at the proper temperature (with appropriate flux). Simply
using a standard soldering iron and a coil of electronic solder often
does not work... the insulation doesn't burn off properly and the
solder never reaches the underlying metal.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 5:34 pm
From: Jamie

Dave Platt wrote:

> In article <j55n1l$ep0$1@dont-email.me>,
> Charles <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>>Maybe this has something to do with the wire used in the headphones. There
>>are two pairs (red/copper, green/copper) of stranded copper wrapped around
>>nylon fibers. Does this type of wire have a proper name or require special
>>considerations when splicing?
>
>
> I've heard it referred to as "tinsel wire". Sennheiser is well-known
> for using it. This sort of wire is not trivial to solder
> successfully... something about the insulation on the individual (very
> fine) strands, I believe.
>
> If I recall correctly, you have to either remove the insulation via a
> nasty chemical stripper, or tin the wires by dipping the strand into a
> solder pot at the proper temperature (with appropriate flux). Simply
> using a standard soldering iron and a coil of electronic solder often
> does not work... the insulation doesn't burn off properly and the
> solder never reaches the underlying metal.
>
Acetone.

Jamie

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 6:51 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 18 Sep 2011 16:34:57 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:

>If I recall correctly, you have to either remove the insulation via a
>nasty chemical stripper, or tin the wires by dipping the strand into a
>solder pot at the proper temperature (with appropriate flux). Simply
>using a standard soldering iron and a coil of electronic solder often
>does not work... the insulation doesn't burn off properly and the
>solder never reaches the underlying metal.

Nope. In my bad old days of phone phreaking, it was sometimes
necessary to repair a telephone handset coil cord. Same stuff as the
earphones... tinsel.

To make a decent connection, strip off the outer jacket CAREFULLY
exposing the tinsel and some silk strands. Take a piece of stranded
wire, strip off about 3 inches, cut one strand off, and wrap it around
the tinsel. Start by winding a few turns on the remaining insulating
jacket for strength, and then wind the wire around the tinsel and
silk. You should then be able to solder to the wire.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Unknown device "3B" on motor drive boards.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e979c6db82f60b1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 5:44 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:j520bp$svb$1@dont-email.me...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:UAZcq.249$2F.208@newsfe23.ams2...
>>
>>
>> "Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
>> news:17o777dq4n9ks5nb8jurlvqe1mdehomk24@4ax.com...
>> > On Fri, 16 Sep 2011 15:49:49 -0700, "Robbie Hatley"
>> > <see.my.sig@for.my.contact.info> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>> >
>
>
>>
>> Just the other day, I had a case of a mis-drawn device on a schematic. It
>> was in the ignitor circuit for a short-arc discharge lamp. It was shown
>> on
>> the schematic as a thyristor with the gate left unconnected.
>
>
> Is that schematic out there in wwwland? I was recently trying to find any
> schematic of the ballast part of such a supply but could only find patent
> references or nulled-out block diagrams. I was trying to get an idea of
> the
> post-trigger start up regime while the lamp is warming up.
>
>

The manuals are on the manufacturer's website, but that doesn't actually
help, as the schematic for the version of ballast that shows the ignitor, is
not included in any of the models' manuals. We had to get that one direct
from them. I have it printed out, but for some reason, I don't seem to have
it saved away anywhere. I have been through the rest of my manual versions
that I have got saved, and have found another schematic that has the same
ignitor on it, but with the SIDAC (almost) correctly shown as a diac. If you
care to mail me direct off-group with a current valid address that you
receive and read mail on, I'll send it to you.

I have discovered by being involved in repairing them, that there is
actually no great mystery to how the lamp starts up. I too initially thought
that it was a carefully controlled start-up procedure, but it's actually
not, and seems to rely totally on the characteristics of the lamp itself.
Basically, a current-limited AC voltage of something in excess of 100v RMS
is applied across the lamp, and at the same time, a series of striking
pulses of several kV are superimposed on top of that. This causes the basic
arc to strike, and the AC voltage drops to around 25 volts, which seems to
be enough to maintain the arc through the gas in the discharge tube. By
whatever means - in the case of this particular one by use of a thermal
switch heated by a power resistor in the RC network of the pulse generator -
the ignition pulses are stopped, leaving just the AC across the lamp. As the
lamp starts to warm up, the full plasma discharge starts to form in the arc
tube, and as this builds, the impedance of the lamp increases, resulting in
the AC voltage across the lamp increasing, until it settles at around 90 to
100 V with the lamp at full operating temperature. This appears to be purely
down to the lamp, and nothing to do with the ballast, whose sole job appears
to be to limit / control the current in the lamp so that it burns within
its rating. The max hot running voltage does tend to drop as the lamp ages,
and does vary a little between manufacturers. I have seen voltages ranging
between about 80 and 100 volts. I guess it's a bit like a neon bulb where
you get a fixed voltage across it of around 90 volts, irrespective of the
applied voltage on the back side of the current limiting resistor.

A couple of weeks ago, I had a similar lighting fixture from a different
manufacturer on the bench. It used exactly the same short-arc discharge
lamp, but had no electronic ballast. Instead, it had a simple passive series
inductive ballast, fed directly from the mains. The ignitor for this one was
a sealed unit that 'floated' on the lamp side of the choke, so this further
reinforced my belief that the electronic ballasts do nothing 'magic' and
it's just a case of arcing up the lamp initially, and then limiting the
current through it, leaving it to otherwise just 'do its own thing'.

I have a very good pdf on metal halide discharge lamps and how they work,
which I could also send you, if you are interested.

Arfa

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 7:41 pm
From: Robbie Hatley

On 2011-09-17 4:52 PM, Franc Zabkar wrote:

> FWIW, Hitachi has a HA17432VLTP device with a "3B"
> marking code in an MPAKV package:
> http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dl/Datasheets-13/DSA-247658.pdf
>
> It is designated for "industrial use".
>
> Its pinout is K-A-Ref whereas the pinout of the HA17431VLTP device
> (marking 3A) is Ref-A-K.
>
> Specifications:
> http://www.renesas.com/_full_product_info_/products/standard_ic/general_purpose_linear/power_management_linear/shunt_regulators/shunt_regulators_root.jsp

AH, I think that's it or something very close! Hitachi even
specifies that the part is intended to be used in switching
power supplies, in conjunction with an optocoupler in the
feedback circuit, so it's a very probable match.

The device on the boards I've been working on is SO-89, which
Hitachi is calling "UPAK". Any of their "U" versions of the
431 & 432 have this package, with marking codes 4A, 4B, etc.
So this is probably the same basic kind of part, but a different
manufacturer, using 3B as marking code for the SO-89 version.

Thanks for the tip!

--
Cheers,
Robbie Hatley
Stanton, CA, USA
lonewolf (at) well (dot) com
http://www.well.com/user/lonewolf/

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Sep 18 2011 7:45 pm
From: Robbie Hatley

On 2011-09-16 2:48 PM, whit3rd wrote:

> The most common item that one sees in a switching supply
> next to an optoisolator is a TL431 programmable zener
> (actually a voltage reference/error amplifier combination).
> Possibly that's what you have, they're multiple-sourced
> in LOTS of package styles.

Yep, I think that's probably it! Thanks! (Also see my
reply to "Franc Zabkar". I saw his reply first. He
mentioned the Hitachi version of 431, 432.)

--
Cheers,
Robbie Hatley
Stanton, CA, USA
lonewolf (at) well (dot) com
http://www.well.com/user/lonewolf/

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 8 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 8 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive