sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* HP Photosmart C8180 All-In-One repaired - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93d07d1a1ef901b0?hl=en
* Useful Resource ... - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ffeeabe6ce63f45?hl=en
* For easy Website Study - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/249558f2c1cd41f5?hl=en
* Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
* home-brew Freon TF substitutes? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
* Flat belt mechanics - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f62768eb91d218d?hl=en

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TOPIC: HP Photosmart C8180 All-In-One repaired
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93d07d1a1ef901b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 14 2011 10:56 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 02:02:43 GMT, Ray Carlsen <rcarlsen@tds.net> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

>Device: HP Model C8180 Photosmart All-In-One Printer/Scanner/Copier
>
>Fault: When plugged in, it power cycles over and over by itself. No
>functions work including Reset (holding power button at AC in).
>
>Repair: Replace four electrolytic capacitors on the internal power
>supply board: C613 and C660 (330uF at 10V), C614 and C662 (680uF at
>6.3V).

Thanks for sharing.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Useful Resource ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ffeeabe6ce63f45?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 5:41 am
From: Adrian C

On 14/11/2011 16:49, Arfa Daily wrote:
> Site I came across today, whilst searching for a Rotel schematic.
>
> http://audio-circuit.dk/Schematics.htm
>
> Hadn't seen it before. Seems to have quite a lot of useful stuff on it.
>

Mmmmmmm Free Schematic Porn ..... ;-)

--
Not Me

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 9:29 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Nov 14, 8:49 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> Site I came across today, whilst searching for a Rotel schematic.
>
> http://audio-circuit.dk/Schematics.htm
>
> Hadn't seen it before. Seems to have quite a lot of useful stuff on it.
>

Many thanks for this pointer.

I downloaded two Crown (Amcron) schematics and one service manual. The
quality varied but you get what you pay for, I suppose.

Pardon me but when I see "Rotel" I always think of this canned tomato
and chillie concoction:

http://www.texmex.net/Graphics/rotel.gif

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 5:40 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f3712d80-e64f-42f3-9b9f-e9617cd43243@l23g2000pro.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 14, 8:49 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> Site I came across today, whilst searching for a Rotel schematic.
>>
>> http://audio-circuit.dk/Schematics.htm
>>
>> Hadn't seen it before. Seems to have quite a lot of useful stuff on it.
>>
>
> Many thanks for this pointer.
>
> I downloaded two Crown (Amcron) schematics and one service manual. The
> quality varied but you get what you pay for, I suppose.
>
> Pardon me but when I see "Rotel" I always think of this canned tomato
> and chillie concoction:
>
> http://www.texmex.net/Graphics/rotel.gif

Excellent ! Must be a left-pondian product. Don't think I've ever seen it
over here

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: For easy Website Study
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/249558f2c1cd41f5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 8:30 am
From: Scott Smith

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 3:03 pm
From: Jamie

hrhofmann@att.net wrote:

> On Nov 14, 7:35 pm, Jamie
> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
>
>>Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>>
>>>On 2011-11-14, Jeffrey Angus <grendel...@aim.com> wrote:
>>
>>>>On 11/13/2011 8:52 PM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>>
>>>>>The hoist can be entirely rewired for 240/480. It actually WAS wired
>>>>>for 480 and I had to rewire. So, you are saying that to complete this
>>>>>transition to 240, I would have to replace the solenoid?
>>
>>>>>i
>>
>>>>Ok, let's back up a bit. WHEN was the last time the hoist worked
>>>>like it should? When it was installed and operating on 480 v?
>>
>>>>Or was it working at some point when re-wired for 240 v and THEN
>>>>started to act up with the brake solenoid?
>>
>>>I bought it at auction.
>>
>>>I have never seen this hoist run.
>>
>>>At my place, I have 240v 3ph only. (well, I have a transformer that I
>>>could wire to get 460v, but it is sitting in the corner right now).
>>
>>>i
>>
>>Ok, so what is the original coil voltage suppose to be? 230 or 480?
>>
>> You do know that many of those types of devices that allow you to
>>rewire uses the same coil for both voltages? Normally the coil is
>>spec'd out for 230V AC.. which will work in either case, it's just
>>where you connect the wires to.
>>
>> Jamie- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> Has the OP ever said if there are two or three or how many wires going
> to the solenoid????
From what I can remember, it's a simple 2 wire solenoid.. That being the
case, they should be connected to the # 1 & 2 wires of the motor relay
output side M1,M2. If it was wired for 480, then the coil is connected
to the #4 and #5 for example. That will get half the voltage when the
motor operates. Standard for AC motors with add on brake on the back..

Jamie

==============================================================================
TOPIC: home-brew Freon TF substitutes?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f66a71610e41b61d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 3:35 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

Orson Cart <ex-privat@parts.org> wrote:
>
> isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>At least some (perhaps not all) methylated hydrocarbons are completely
>>
>>non-flammable, and also are heavier than water and will not mix with
>>it.
>>I am sure that is true of methylene chloride.
>>
>>Be careful, though; it is a powerful solvent, removing, among other
>>
>>things, *all* the oil from your skin, if you have much contact with
>>it.
>>It is absorbed through the skin, too, and hurts/burns.
>>
>>It may also neatly soften or dissolve a lot of the plastics used in
>>
>>electronics; I don't know.
>>
>>Isaac
>
> Methylene chloride is definitely not for electronic components.
> It is used a paint stripper. I am sure it would require rinsing
> off quickly with another solvent, otherwise your PCB would be
> fuggered.
> The sadly-missed chloro/fluoro-carbon cleaners would not damage the useful
> stuff like plastics, rubber, lacquer, metal, paper et ecetera.

plus they didn't leave condensation- not really sure how they evporated
and took the water with them.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 4:17 pm
From: Jim Yanik

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in
news:j9ut0k$a1s$2@reader1.panix.com:

> Orson Cart <ex-privat@parts.org> wrote:
>>
>> isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>At least some (perhaps not all) methylated hydrocarbons are
>>>completely
>>>
>>>non-flammable, and also are heavier than water and will not mix with
>>>it.
>>>I am sure that is true of methylene chloride.
>>>
>>>Be careful, though; it is a powerful solvent, removing, among other
>>>
>>>things, *all* the oil from your skin, if you have much contact with
>>>it.
>>>It is absorbed through the skin, too, and hurts/burns.
>>>
>>>It may also neatly soften or dissolve a lot of the plastics used in
>>>
>>>electronics; I don't know.
>>>
>>>Isaac
>>
>> Methylene chloride is definitely not for electronic components.
>> It is used a paint stripper. I am sure it would require rinsing
>> off quickly with another solvent, otherwise your PCB would be
>> fuggered.
>> The sadly-missed chloro/fluoro-carbon cleaners would not damage the
>> useful stuff like plastics, rubber, lacquer, metal, paper et ecetera.
>
> plus they didn't leave condensation- not really sure how they
> evporated and took the water with them.
>
>
>

try CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner,#05110. no residue.
get it as Wal-Mart,or auto stores.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 5:07 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <j9ut0k$a1s$2@reader1.panix.com>,
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

>> Methylene chloride is definitely not for electronic components.
>> It is used a paint stripper. I am sure it would require rinsing
>> off quickly with another solvent, otherwise your PCB would be
>> fuggered.

Burns like hell if it gets on your skin, too.

>> The sadly-missed chloro/fluoro-carbon cleaners would not damage the useful
>> stuff like plastics, rubber, lacquer, metal, paper et ecetera.
>
>plus they didn't leave condensation- not really sure how they evporated
>and took the water with them.

I'd guess that they had a low heat of vaporization... they didn't have
to "steal" much energy per volume in order to evaporate. This would
minimize the degree to which the surface is cooled, and thus reduce
the chance of dropping it to the dew point and causing condensation.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 15 2011 5:38 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Not all CFCs are equally effective at destroying ozone. Is it possible there
are still cleaners using these "less-effective" Freons?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Flat belt mechanics
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f62768eb91d218d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 16 2011 12:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

I don't remember seeing this before. Instead of baluster/bulbous pulley or
capstan, two angled faces with a thin ridge in the centre on the drive
pinion. So the belt must ride on the ridge but why does it not hunt about?
There is a limiting flange either side of the angled flats and the width of
the rubber band is greater than the distance between a flange and the
central ridge, but still why no riding about?. Then what I thought was crude
construction is probably part of the dynamics. The capstan is 2 discs fitted
together but one is 49.94mm diameter and the other 50.04mm so this step
change must make sure the band rides over the ridge but biased to one side,
lightly touching one angled face, but not touching a limiting flange. When I
get the mechanism working again I will try viewing with a xenon strobe light
. Anyone any input on this ? more or less prone to changes in rubber
restitution/stretch etc, more/less likely to come of when PTO is engaged,
greater/less accuracy in speed of drive with varying driven-side back torque
etc.

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