sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Digital Optical to Analog Converter - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d6eac4949d838497?hl=en
* Useful Resource ... - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ffeeabe6ce63f45?hl=en
* D-Logik HD66 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3401167a071d177c?hl=en
* Ion it USB turntable - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a4174ad69858759?hl=en
* Wanted: HP 3746A power transformer - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e114a2ee536e13be?hl=en
* Is there some'secret' way to easily remove screw cap covers when
dissassembling? - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c64bf4354664f1fc?hl=en
* Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/604b8d65c02e3a74?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Digital Optical to Analog Converter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d6eac4949d838497?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 16 2011 9:05 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Nov 16, 6:17 pm, "JohnC" <anonym...@news.groups.com> wrote:
> I just purchased a Panasonic Viera Plasma TV model TC-P42S30.  Since it has
> no analog audio out for my legacy stereo, I purchased a FiiO Optical to
> Audio Converter Model D3,http://www.fiio.com.cn/product/index.aspx?ID=33&MenuID=020302.But when I
> hooked it up to the TV digital optical out, all I got was a pulsing sound
> from my stereo..  The digital to analog converter worked fine on when
> connected to the digital optical on the Blu-Ray but not on the Panasonic TV.
>
> I took the converter to the store where I purchased the TV and the sales rep
> connected it to a Panasonic TV and got the same results.  Is this converter
> not able to decode the digital signal from Panasonic TVs?  Can anyone
> recommend one that will work with my TV?
>
> John

Had a similar problem but the earphone jack works well enough. For
reasons that make no sense to me using the earphone jack disables
balance, bass and treble controls. Somebody in Korea believes that
earphones are perfect. Who knew? Anyway I use one of the USB ports to
take the 5 Volts and trigger a solid state relay to turn on the
receiver to run the speakers. It's only stereo but then again it's
only TV.

G²

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 3:44 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

A related issue...

Though it's not the source of your problem, you might want to look into the
possibility of ground loops, especially if you wind up making an analog
connection between the Panasonic and your system.

It's difficult to find RF isolation transformers for cable systems. MCM
sells one -- the #33-8700 that seems to work okay. It's sometimes available
for ~ $10. You might also want or need a double-F connector, #33-480.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 7:19 pm
From: "JohnC"

> I just purchased a Panasonic Viera Plasma TV model TC-P42S30. Since it
> has
> no analog audio out for my legacy stereo, I purchased a FiiO Optical to
> Audio Converter Model D3,
> http://www.fiio.com.cn/product/index.aspx?ID=33&MenuID=020302 .But when I
> hooked it up to the TV digital optical out, all I got was a pulsing sound
> from my stereo.. The digital to analog converter worked fine on when
> connected to the digital optical on the Blu-Ray but not on the Panasonic
> TV.

> I took the converter to the store where I purchased the TV and the sales
> rep
> connected it to a Panasonic TV and got the same results. Is this
> converter
> not able to decode the digital signal from Panasonic TVs? Can anyone
> recommend one that will work with my TV?

> John

"Klay Anderson" <klay@klay.com> wrote in message
news:25552311.108.1321569151620.JavaMail.geo-discussion-forums@prnv30...
> Nope. With TVs you have to use this:
>
> http://www.gefen.com/kvm/dproduct.jsp?prod_id=5980
>
> Text "Klay" to 50500 for contact info
>
> -.- .-.. .- -.-- / .- - / -.- .-.. .- -.-- / -.. --- - / -.-. --- --
> Yours truly,
>
> Mr. Klay Anderson, D.A.,Q.B.E.

I think that will do it. When RTFM (thanks spamtrap1888) the Panasonic will
provide Dolby Digital when an ATSC channel is selected and PCM when NTSC
channel is selected. I'm getting ATSC over the air so I need to convert
Dolby Digital. Looks like the Gefen unit will do this. I'll get it and
post back the results. BTW, I could find no menu option to change the
digital optical out fomat on the TV. Thanks to all for your help.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Useful Resource ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4ffeeabe6ce63f45?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 3:45 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Picky point...

Chili is the dish. Chiles are the peppers. There's an episode of "Good Eats"
that carefully (and repeatedly) makes the distinction.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 9:44 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Nov 17, 3:45 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> Picky point...
>
> Chili is the dish. Chiles are the peppers. There's an episode of "Good Eats"
> that carefully (and repeatedly) makes the distinction.

I'm trying to bridge the Atlantic here. Further, "Good Eats" doesn't
know what they're talking about.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 9:59 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5c4a0bd-2a13-4458-b5b5-12e316845c3a@u24g2000pru.googlegroups.com...
On Nov 17, 3:45 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:

>> Picky point...
>> Chili is the dish. Chiles are the peppers. There's an episode of "Good
Eats"
>> that carefully (and repeatedly) makes the distinction.

> I'm trying to bridge the Atlantic here. Further, "Good Eats" doesn't
> know what they're talking about.

In the US, the usage I gave is correct. Chili (sometimes called chili con
carne) is the dish, a kind of beef stew, and the chile is the pepper. What
caused this divergence, I don't know.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 12:53 pm
From: greenpjs@neo.rr.com

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 09:59:01 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>"spamtrap1888" <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote in message
>news:b5c4a0bd-2a13-4458-b5b5-12e316845c3a@u24g2000pru.googlegroups.com...
>On Nov 17, 3:45 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>
>>> Picky point...
>>> Chili is the dish. Chiles are the peppers. There's an episode of "Good
>Eats"
>>> that carefully (and repeatedly) makes the distinction.
>
>> I'm trying to bridge the Atlantic here. Further, "Good Eats" doesn't
>> know what they're talking about.
>
>In the US, the usage I gave is correct. Chili (sometimes called chili con
>carne) is the dish, a kind of beef stew, and the chile is the pepper. What
>caused this divergence, I don't know.
>
Huh? Yes, chili is a stew made with chili peppers. Often, it
includes meat as in chili con carne (literally translated from Spanish
as chili with meat). Chile is a country in South America.

Alternate spellings of the pepper are chilli and chile, but in the US,
the pepper and the stew are *normally* spelled the same way in spite
of what "Good Eats" said.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 1:12 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

<greenpjs@neo.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1jsac7t6c9atr3fmflc667tgpp80ocg035@4ax.com...

> Alternate spellings of the pepper are chilli and chile, but in the US,
> the pepper and the stew are *normally* spelled the same way in spite
> of what "Good Eats" said.

I mean no offense, but that is absolutely not correct. The differentiation
has been around for years.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: D-Logik HD66
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3401167a071d177c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 6:39 am
From: "N_Cook"

Ron <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:QqudnVSbeK8aKl7TnZ2dnUVZ8s-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> D-Logik HD66
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this cheapo budget projector.
>
> At switch on, the lamp lights and the fan runs but neither the panel
> buttons nor the remote control have no effect. There are no graphics
> displayed, just a bright white raster. The unit will not switch off via
> the shutdown button.
>
> Does anyone know if there's a reset sequence?
>
> I stopped doing repairs some time back and I'm only looking at this
> because it belongs to a friend. I don't intend to spend much time on it.
>
> Ron (UK)

Have to hope for a missing "digital" V on the ps and overlay V designations
at a header

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ion it USB turntable
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a4174ad69858759?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 9:06 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Nov 16, 5:17 pm, "Gareth Magennis" <sound.serv...@btconnect.com>
wrote:
> "klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:e13da6f1-739c-4ffb-a2bf-6fc0a1dce7af@m7g2000vbc.googlegroups.com...
>
> > Got this thing in for repair. It has no output from either the RCA
> > cables on line or phono out or the USB out. The interface board has a
> > great deal of smt circuitry on it and I'm thinking that this is
> > probably a waste of time but I had to ask. Anyone ever worked on one
> > of these? Thanks, Lenny
>
> My method would be first to measure the power supplies at the smt op-amp
> pins to make sure they are there.
>
> Second to make sure there is an output from the cartridge to the circuitry -
> inject a signal into the circuitry to check this, or just your finger to
> make a buzz.
>
> If none of the above you are indeed probably wasting your time.
>
> Gareth.

The power supply appears to be working. I'm not certain its putting
out the correct voltages, but I'll look at it again. I have a feeling
though that this pos is just another throw away. Thanks, Lenny

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 2:27 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d6714aa8-4427-4952-978c-ba571db08e61@m10g2000vbc.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 16, 5:17 pm, "Gareth Magennis" <sound.serv...@btconnect.com>
> wrote:
>> "klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:e13da6f1-739c-4ffb-a2bf-6fc0a1dce7af@m7g2000vbc.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> > Got this thing in for repair. It has no output from either the RCA
>> > cables on line or phono out or the USB out. The interface board has a
>> > great deal of smt circuitry on it and I'm thinking that this is
>> > probably a waste of time but I had to ask. Anyone ever worked on one
>> > of these? Thanks, Lenny
>>
>> My method would be first to measure the power supplies at the smt op-amp
>> pins to make sure they are there.
>>
>> Second to make sure there is an output from the cartridge to the
>> circuitry -
>> inject a signal into the circuitry to check this, or just your finger to
>> make a buzz.
>>
>> If none of the above you are indeed probably wasting your time.
>>
>> Gareth.
>
> The power supply appears to be working. I'm not certain its putting
> out the correct voltages, but I'll look at it again. I have a feeling
> though that this pos is just another throw away. Thanks, Lenny

Yes, power supply is a likely candidate - find the regulators for the
digital stuff, there may be 2 or 3 different voltages required, unlike the
old days when everything ran off 5v.

Gareth.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 3:03 pm
From: b

On Nov 16, 10:07 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Got this thing in for repair. It has no output from either the RCA
> cables on line or phono out or the USB out. The interface board has a
> great deal of smt circuitry on it and I'm thinking that this is
> probably a waste of time but I had to ask. Anyone ever worked on one
> of these? Thanks, Lenny

If all else fails, bypass the circuitry and just wire the cartridge up
to the RCA output sockets, then you can use the deck like a 'normal
'TT with any amp having a Phono input.

-b

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 3:50 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Nov 17, 6:03 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Nov 16, 10:07 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Got this thing in for repair. It has no output from either the RCA
> > cables on line or phono out or the USB out. The interface board has a
> > great deal of smt circuitry on it and I'm thinking that this is
> > probably a waste of time but I had to ask. Anyone ever worked on one
> > of these? Thanks, Lenny
>
> If all else fails, bypass the circuitry and just wire the cartridge up
> to the RCA output sockets, then you can use the deck like a 'normal
> 'TT with any amp having a Phono input.
>
> -b

I would do it if it was mine but I don't think the customer has a
stereo system. Lenny

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 6:05 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> If all else fails, bypass the circuitry and just wire the cartridge up
> to the RCA output sockets, then you can use the deck like a 'normal
> 'TT with any amp having a Phono input.

This unit probably has a ceramic pickup. If so, that won't work.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wanted: HP 3746A power transformer
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e114a2ee536e13be?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 1:11 pm
From: Curtiss Wright

Wanted to buy: Power transformer for HP 3746A Selective Level
Measuring Set, HP p/n 03746-80101.

Thanks,

Curtiss

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is there some'secret' way to easily remove screw cap covers when
dissassembling?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c64bf4354664f1fc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 1:27 pm
From: Robert Macy

On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?

The cap covers along the bottom were oval shaped and came off by
gently pushing in the middle, distorting its shape. Once distorted it
was easy to then lift it out of the hole by inserting into the gap the
side of a single edge razor blade. The covers covering the hinge
screws again came out easily due to their oval shape.

However, now I'm faced with bezel screws which have round covers.
These covers I'll be looking at every time I use this thing in the
future, so don't want to destroy the covers.

Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
out without destroying them?

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 2:40 pm
From: Baron

Robert Macy Inscribed thus:

> On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
> black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
> csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
> appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?
>
> The cap covers along the bottom were oval shaped and came off by
> gently pushing in the middle, distorting its shape. Once distorted it
> was easy to then lift it out of the hole by inserting into the gap the
> side of a single edge razor blade. The covers covering the hinge
> screws again came out easily due to their oval shape.
>
> However, now I'm faced with bezel screws which have round covers.
> These covers I'll be looking at every time I use this thing in the
> future, so don't want to destroy the covers.
>
> Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
> out without destroying them?

I use a watchmakers screwdriver, carefully. :-)
They are also stuck in with DS tape.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 4:22 pm
From: Winston

Robert Macy wrote:
> On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
> black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
> csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
> appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?

See pages 122 and 125:
http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/62p9631.pdf

'Looks like you have to insert the tip of an
X-Acto 11 blade and pry them off.
It will probably uglify the screw caps though.

Luckily, the caps are sold as part of P/N 26P9654
for 22 bux including shipping:
eBay 380113424356

Screw kit (including nylon-coated screws) for T20,
T21, T22 and T23 series:
v M2.5 x 14 mm, bind head (15)
v M2.5 x 11.5 mm, flat head (5)
v M2.5 x 4.8 mm, flat head (20)
v M2.5 x 3.5 mm, flat head (10)
v M2.0 x 13.5 mm, pan head (15)
v M2..0 x 4.0 mm, small head (10)
v Hex stud D-sub (10)
v Coin screw (1)
v Security screw (1)
v Blank cap, enhanced port (5)
v Screw caps, rear (5)
v Screw caps (5)
v Screw caps (painted) (10)
v Screw caps (not painted, thin) (10)
v Screw caps (not painted) (5)

--Winston

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 4:30 pm
From: Matthew Fries

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:27:31 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

>On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
>black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
>csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
>appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?
>
>The cap covers along the bottom were oval shaped and came off by
>gently pushing in the middle, distorting its shape. Once distorted it
>was easy to then lift it out of the hole by inserting into the gap the
>side of a single edge razor blade. The covers covering the hinge
>screws again came out easily due to their oval shape.
>
>However, now I'm faced with bezel screws which have round covers.
>These covers I'll be looking at every time I use this thing in the
>future, so don't want to destroy the covers.
>
>Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
>out without destroying them?

When the authorized service centers repair the laptops, they usually
have to order (or have on hand) replacement adhesive covers. I find
this a waste of money and product to have to buy something every time
you open the laptop.

I found that on most laptops, a hole punch and some double-sided
sticky tape works great.

Or maybe some rubber cement.

Thanks.

Remove the BALONEY from my email address.
-----------------------------------------------------
Matthew Fries Minneapolis, MN USA
freeze@baloneyvisi.com

"Quit eating all my *STUFF*!" - The Tick

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 5:11 pm
From: Rich Webb

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 13:27:31 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

>On IBM's Thinkpad T22 there are mounting screws that are covered by
>black color-matching plastic 'covers' These covers provide a
>csometically flush surface over the top of the screws. The covers
>appear to 'glued' in place with double sided tape?
>
>The cap covers along the bottom were oval shaped and came off by
>gently pushing in the middle, distorting its shape. Once distorted it
>was easy to then lift it out of the hole by inserting into the gap the
>side of a single edge razor blade. The covers covering the hinge
>screws again came out easily due to their oval shape.
>
>However, now I'm faced with bezel screws which have round covers.
>These covers I'll be looking at every time I use this thing in the
>future, so don't want to destroy the covers.
>
>Thus, the question, is there some secret to getting these cap covers
>out without destroying them?

Try drilling a small hole through the center and use a dental pick or
similar to carefully pop it off. Cleaner and less noticeable than the
chewed-up appearance that often results from prying at the edges.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/604b8d65c02e3a74?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 1:35 pm
From: Robert Macy

On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Robert Macy wrote:
>
> > The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
>
> > arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
> > pigtail fuse.  plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
> > around AC mains traces.
>
> > The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
> > the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps.  Plus, and
> > this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
> > accessible.  I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
> > to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
>
> > Anybody know the rating?    The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
> > so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
> > heavier.  Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
> > like 5 to 10A ??
>
> > Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
>
>    You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
>
> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...>
>
> --
> You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

Thank you, that's the FIRST time I've bought on eBay.

Cost 8.95 total cost, very prompt arrival with their expenditure for
shipping 3.28 !! labeled made in China, does NOT have the AC plugged
in LED, but at these prices, I can live without it.

Seems to work, the laptop display is still defunct.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 1:45 pm
From: Robert Macy

On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
>
> <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> >> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>
> >thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
> >since I avoid eBay like the plague.
> >but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
>
> I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
> don't come from any specific vendor on eBay.  In general, the quality
> is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
> they are the same power supplies used by OEM.  There may be
> differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
> no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
> overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
> variety of tips to fit any laptop.  In this case, the T22 power supply
> uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
> in huge production quantities, and very low prices.  If you plan to
> continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
> spares.  Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
> For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
> vendors, than I get from the major online vendors.  If eBay and/or
> Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
> <http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...>
>
> >Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside.  just can't read the value on the
> >UNDERSIDE!
>
> Then guess.  Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
> Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating.  You could also
> visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
> fuse collection.  My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC.  So, a
> 2A or 3A sounds about right.
>
> >Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
>
> If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly.  That
> doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides.  It means
> let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
> evaporated.  If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
> clean water wash will be needed.  I've fixed several computers, that
> were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
> by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly.  After a
> blow dry, they wouldn't run.  After a month to let everything
> evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
>
> If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
> transformer.  Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
> above ground.  If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
> careful grounding, then don't try to fix it.  The life you save may be
> your own.
>
> However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
> it.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.

The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!

So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.

Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
blows easily?

If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 2:42 pm
From: Baron

Robert Macy Inscribed thus:

> On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
>>
>> <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> >> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>
>> >thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
>> >since I avoid eBay like the plague.
>> >but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
>>
>> I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month.
>> They don't come from any specific vendor on eBay.  In general, the
>> quality is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer.
>> That's because they are the same power supplies used by OEM.  There
>> may be differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all.
>> I've had no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I
>> have had some overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that
>> come with a variety of tips to fit any laptop.  In this case, the T22
>> power supply uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq
>> laptops, resulting in huge production quantities, and very low
>> prices.  If you plan to continue immersing your power supplies, I
>> suggest purchasing a few spares.  Also, I suggest you get over your
>> phobia of buying on eBay. For what it's worth, I get better service
>> from most of the small eBay vendors, than I get from the major online
>> vendors.  If eBay and/or Paypal have somehow offended you, try
>> Amazon:
>>
<http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...>
>>
>> >Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside.  just can't read the value on
>> >the UNDERSIDE!
>>
>> Then guess.  Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
>> Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating.  You could also
>> visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
>> fuse collection.  My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC.  So, a
>> 2A or 3A sounds about right.
>>
>> >Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
>>
>> If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly.  That
>> doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides.  It means
>> let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
>> evaporated.  If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
>> clean water wash will be needed.  I've fixed several computers, that
>> were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
>> by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly.  After a
>> blow dry, they wouldn't run.  After a month to let everything
>> evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
>>
>> If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
>> transformer.  Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
>> above ground.  If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
>> careful grounding, then don't try to fix it.  The life you save may
>> be your own.
>>
>> However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
>> it.
>>
>> --
>> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
>> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
>> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
>> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
>
> Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
> 8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
> LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
>
> The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
> the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
> Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
>
> So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
> could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
> don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
> will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.
>
> Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
> blows easily?
>
> If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
> destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
> at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
> main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?

Plug an external monitor into the machine. See if you have video output.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 3:30 pm
From: mike

Robert Macy wrote:
> On Nov 1, 8:52 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
>>
>> <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>>>> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>
>>> thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
>>> since I avoid eBay like the plague.
>>> but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?
>> I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
>> don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
>> is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
>> they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
>> differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
>> no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
>> overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
>> variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
>> uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
>> in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
>> continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
>> spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
>> For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
>> vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
>> Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
>> <http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&f...>
>>
>>> Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
>>> UNDERSIDE!
>> Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
>> Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
>> visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
>> fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
>> 2A or 3A sounds about right.
>>
>>> Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.
>> If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
>> doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
>> let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
>> evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
>> clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
>> were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
>> by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
>> blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
>> evaporate, all three recovered nicely.
>>
>> If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
>> transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
>> above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
>> careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
>> your own.
>>
>> However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
>> it.
>>
>> --
>> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
>> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
>> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
>> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
>
> Bought one of those SMPS on eBay, first time to use eBay. total cost
> 8.95, arrived fast and they paid 3.28 to ship! labeled China, has no
> LED plug in indicator, but that's ok.
>
> The laptop boots up, beeps because the date is set to 1981 [can't see
> the screen, backlight is OUT, just know the significance of the beep]
> Conclusion SMPS works, laptop basically works. just no screen!
>
> So following the T22 manual dissassembled down to the LCD screen,
> could not see anything that looked like liquid and dried salts, so
> don't know what's still wrong. Flushed with distilled water anywy and
> will let dry. Will see later if that brings it back.

Flushed WHAT with distilled water?

Does the display work on an external monitor?
Make sure you don't have the display turned off.
Make sure the cmos battery is good and that you've
reset the BIOS defaults. With dumpster laptops of unknown
provenance, I've seen BIOS parameter corruption cause all
manner of weird symptoms.
Had one laptop that refused to do anything until I unsoldered
the cmos battery then put it back.

>
> Is the 'inverter card' the ps for the backlight? is it touchy and
> blows easily?
Not unless you flush the high voltage transformer with water.
But the inverter and lamp are the weakest links.
>
> If I can find a way to remove the cap covers over the screws without
> destroying the cap covers, I'll take out the invreter board and look
> at it to see if any obvious damage. Or ohm out the terminals on the
> main switching transistor to see if it got toasted. Any ideas?

Depending on the inverter topology, you may not be able to ohm out the
transistors. You'd be looking at the transformer.

It takes a lot of volts to strike a fluorescent backlight. I the lamp
cracks, it doesn't strike and limit the voltage. Increased voltage
can arc the HV transformer or spike the fets. Even if the engineer
were conscientious and protected against that, the bean counters
might have been more concerned with saving two cents than limiting a
secondary failure mode.
End result is that a new inverter might fail if the lamp is bad.
Testing the lamp first is safest, but there's no easy way to do that
with tools in your toolbox. Substituting another lamp works, but
there are connector compatibility issues.
Risk is gonna vary considerably by vendor and specific design.

As an aside...at a garage sale, I found a device that emits RF
used to test fluorescent lamps. I thought this would solve the lamp
testing problem. Tested it on a lamp removed from a display and
it worked great.
After thinking about it, I got very concerned about
the RF blowing up the column drivers while I was testing
a lamp still inside the LCD assembly, so never tried it.

Check the DC into the inverter first.
I've seen pinched display cables.
Also had one laptop that had a display power fuse on the motherboard
near the graphics chip. Looked like a SMT cap. Took me a while to
realize it was a fuse.

The inverter puts out high voltage. There might be enough charge
left on the capacitance of the lamp and the series capacitor to make
a wet spot on your chair. The voltage probably won't hurt you, but
the stuff you bang into or trip over while trying to get away might.
40 years ago, I scratched a cornea on an antenna wire I flipped up
while flying out the back of a TV set. ;-)

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 17 2011 5:40 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Robert Macy" <robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:e272b350-4346-486d-b11c-0666a031ee22@p9g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
> On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>> Robert Macy wrote:
>>
>> > The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
>>
>> > arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
>> > pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
>> > around AC mains traces.
>>
>> > The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
>> > the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
>> > this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
>> > accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
>> > to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
>>
>> > Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
>> > so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
>> > heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
>> > like 5 to 10A ??
>>
>> > Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
>>
>> You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
>>
>> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...>
>>
>> --
>> You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.
>
> Thank you, that's the FIRST time I've bought on eBay.
>
> Cost 8.95 total cost, very prompt arrival with their expenditure for
> shipping 3.28 !! labeled made in China, does NOT have the AC plugged
> in LED, but at these prices, I can live without it.
>
> Seems to work, the laptop display is still defunct.

I buy from eBay all the time. I often find that components that I can't
source from my regular mainstream suppliers, are readily available from eBay
shops. Sometimes, you wait a few days when the 'shop' is in China or
Singapore or wherever, but it's worth living with that to be able to get the
bits. I can honestly say that I've never had a problem with any item that
I've bought. A couple of weeks back, my HP printer was showing that the
yellow ink had run out - again - and was refusing to print in colour as a
result. The cartridges are about 7 UKP a pop, and there are six of the
buggers. The 'high capacity' black, which still contains pitifully little
ink, is even more expensive. A few months back, I needed a couple of
colours, and the local store had run out of them both, so I did what I have
never dared do before, and bought a couple of no-brand compatibles from a
printer ink shop in the town. They weren't actually very much cheaper than
the real thing, but I have to say that they did work ok.

So when the yellow ran out again last week, I decided to have a look on
eBay. I found a UK shop located up in the northeast, selling a kit of 12 -
yes that's twelve! - cartridges, for 7.99 UKP total (!!) with free postage
!! I had to read it several times. Not only is this two complete sets, the
colour ones are 18 ml content, and the black is a 45 ml. The blurb says that
they are guaranteed for 12 months, and are fitted with the 'high capacity'
identifier chip.

I ordered them at 2am. By 8am, they were showing as 'shipped', and they
arrived in the post first thing the next morning. Each cartridge is
individually vacuum wrapped. For sure, there is a lot of Chinese writing on
the packets, so I guess that's where they come from, but hey, who cares ?
Not me, that's for sure. Anyway, I put the yellow in, and the machine
accepted it without question, and has indeed registered it correctly as a
high capacity cartridge. So far, it has performed faultlessly. The dark
magenta started to issue warnings that it was getting low today, so I guess
that will be the next one to go in.

I think that as long as you are sensible with eBay dealings, and take note
of the feedback that's been given to a seller by his customers, there's no
need to fear using it, at all.

Arfa

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