sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* taking apart pcmci card? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f03ff8e466d471a?hl=en
* Thoughts on this little oddity, anyone ...? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f831e8e8fd1b96e?hl=en
* ibm laptop predesktop partition? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2e8cef9dffca7bfe?hl=en
* Interesting Find - Tech Spray Blue Stuff - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9f722bf804b1612?hl=en
* Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling - 15
messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
* Appa 63N multimeter, display turns entirely on - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7af8068666e69fda?hl=en
* practical lubricity - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cc5af4e785fa664?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: taking apart pcmci card?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f03ff8e466d471a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 12 2011 10:12 pm
From: "§ñühwö£f"

KORISNIK <tehit1@gmail.com> wrote in
news:3a1580f6-f0f5-44eb-af46-5840e46d2c28@u28g2000yqb.googlegroups.com:

> how do you go about opening the pcmci to 4usb adapter
> at least the black plastic front box(made up of top with 4openings and
> bottom-floor)without breaking it -the central connector got desoldered
>
try cutting it open with a dremel tool?

--
http://www.skepticalscience.com/
http://stopbeck.com|www.snuhwolf.9f.com|www.eyeonpalin.org
_____ ____ ____ __ /\_/\ __ _ ______ _____
/ __/ |/ / / / / // // . . \\ \ |\ | / __ \ \ \ __\
_\ \/ / /_/ / _ / \ / \ \| \| \ \_\ \ \__\ _\
/___/_/|_/\____/_//_/ \_@_/ \__|\__|\____/\____\_\

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Thoughts on this little oddity, anyone ...?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f831e8e8fd1b96e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:50 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> Whatever Bob meant it to mean. Bob was notorious for coming up with
> desciptions that bore little or no relationship to how the circuit actually
> worked.

Yeah but that was his worst fault in my opinion.

At least the products he designed/built was reasonably priced and worked.

Some of it like the Sonic Hologram Generator built into a couple of the
preamps did work pretty close to his verbal description, if you could get it
setup properly. Once I got a copy of the "test record", everything fell into
place and I enjoyed that "effect" for years.

Some of the other stuff like the "Auto Correlator" was nothing more than an
adjustable noise gate and was a fairly useless waste of a button and knob.

Same with the TX11 tuner, unless you wanted to drop the 10K (at the time)
for the Day-Sequerra, that was a very good tuner for urban areas like
Chicago.

I probably owned at least one of everything Carver made up through the cd
player (digital time lens?) and never felt ripped off. The only things that
never survived my abuse was a pair of the cubes, but I still have a pair of
the 1.5t's and except for one that has a cold start problem, they both still
work just fine.

You guys are making him out like he was selling Tice Clocks.

That type of wordy hype was fairly common in the 80's, besides Carver there
was DAK Industries, sort of a Sharper Image of the time (which was another
one with long verbal descriptions), Hey! Drew Kaplan here, driving in to
work today I thought to myself, wouldn't it be great to have a electric
shaver that you could plug into your car lighter....

Then 8 or 9 paragraphs on how this razor was designed, developed and how
it's going to end world hunger and spread peace across the world.

Say what you want about Bob Carver but there was the satisfaction of being
the few peices of audio hardware with the "Made in USA" label on them.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:11 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Some of it like the Sonic Hologram Generator built into a couple of the
> preamps did work pretty close to his verbal description, if you could get
it
> set up properly. Once I got a copy of the "test record", everything fell
into
> place and I enjoyed that "effect" for years.

The SHG actually worked wonderfully with simply miked recordings. I no
longer use mine, but it made my own recordings sound more like what I'd
actually heard at the mic. That's saying something.

However... When I suggested that the device didn't /really/ work the way he
thought it did, and that he had possibly stumbled onto something
significant, Bob dismissed my suggestion. "No, it works the way it's
supposed to." It was like talking to John Atkinson.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ibm laptop predesktop partition?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2e8cef9dffca7bfe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 4:55 am
From: John Holmes

KORISNIK "contributed" in 24hoursupport.helpdesk:

> if you do not get an option to start it in the menu with options f1 go
> to bios,f12 select temp boot device
> does that mean it has been ran over(although with undelete program you
> can see the pre desktop folders)
> or perhaps inside thebios selecting secure, or disabled instead of
> Normal for acess to the predesktop partition would change things?(what
> do those terms mean anyway-bios says:secure=no change,normal=hidden
> form os,changeok,disabled=not usable.not hidden(reclaimable)?
>

RTFM. Oh wait, it's a stolen laptop so you don't /have/ the manual,
right? Give yourself in at the nearest police station, please.

--
<snip>

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:59 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 14:43:08 -0800 (PST), KORISNIK <tehit1@gmail.com>
wrote:

>if you do not get an option to start it in the menu with options f1 go
>to bios,f12 select temp boot device
>does that mean it has been ran over(although with undelete program you
>can see the pre desktop folders)
>or perhaps inside thebios selecting secure, or disabled instead of
>Normal for acess to the predesktop partition would change things?(what
>do those terms mean anyway-bios says:secure=no change,normal=hidden
>form os,changeok,disabled=not usable.not hidden(reclaimable)?

I think you might find it useful to disclose the exact model number of
your laptop. Not all IBM Thinkpads are the same. It might also be
helpful if you would disclose what you're trying to accomplish.
<http://www.thinkwiki.org>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Interesting Find - Tech Spray Blue Stuff
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9f722bf804b1612?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 5:13 am
From: Tim Schwartz

On 11/12/2011 7:53 PM, Chris F. wrote:
> I recently bought a bunch of stuff from another closed-out repair shop,
> and came across a rather interesting find. It's a very old can of Tech Spray
> Blue Stuff, it's nearly full and still works. I remembered that 30+ years
> ago (a bit before my time), many tuner sprays contained freon - some Zenith
> tuners actually had stickers specifying it's exclusive use. Curious, I
> sprayed a bit on my finger and found it extremely cold. Could this be a
> (presumably rare) freon-based product of long ago? And is it something I
> could actually use, on vintage TV tuners? And would it have any value to
> collectors?
>
>

As I recall, "Blue Stuff" was a spray abrasive in a can. It was like a
silver polish for the contacts, and will work well on SOME types of
switches that are heavily corroded. You would NOT want to use it in
posts, as you might polish the carbon track free of carbon. It was a
product of last resort when gentler cleaning methods were not enough.

Freon is not magical stuff. It did work well, but went away because of
environmental concerns. I'm not sure that some of the 'freon
substitutes' aren't nearly as bad.

Current cleaners also will make you finger feel cold when sprayed.

Regards,
Tim
Bristol Electronics

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 5:32 am
From: John-Del

On Nov 12, 7:53 pm, "Chris F." <zappy...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>   I recently bought a bunch of stuff from another closed-out repair shop,
> and came across a rather interesting find. It's a very old can of Tech Spray
> Blue Stuff, it's nearly full and still works. I remembered that 30+ years
> ago (a bit before my time), many tuner sprays contained freon - some Zenith
> tuners actually had stickers specifying it's exclusive use. Curious, I
> sprayed a bit on my finger and found it extremely cold. Could this be a
> (presumably rare) freon-based product of long ago? And is it something I
> could actually use, on vintage TV tuners? And would it have any value to
> collectors?

Blue Stuff was a big seller to TV repair shops in the 70s. I used it
and it was very effective for "turret" type tuners, not so much on the
incremental type. Later on, Blue Stuff sold adhesive back foam strips
which would be placed in the bottom of the tuner shield and sprayed
with Blue Stuff. This would keep the turret type tuners much more
stable as the barrel would rotate into the foam pad every time the
tuner was used.

It was NEVER sprayed in RCA tuners as it carried solids with it that
would aggravate the neutralizing capacitor and cause all sorts of
havoc until the Blue Stuff was flushed out with Tuner Wash.

Ah.... memories.

John

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:00 am
From: Ignoramus22978

I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
supplied to it.

The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.

I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.

I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
engaging?

Any idea?

thanks

== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:28 am
From: Tony Miklos

On 11/13/2011 9:00 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
> supplied to it.
>
> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>
> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>
> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
> engaging?
>
> Any idea?
>
> thanks

It may have two windings on one coil. I deal with solenoids like that
all the time. The first strong winding pulls it in then opens a "end of
stroke" switch so it doesn't burn up. Then the second weaker winding is
just strong enough to hold it and can stay energized without burning up.
If the second weak winding is broke, you get a chattering action.

== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:08 am
From: Jamie

Ignoramus22978 wrote:

> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
> supplied to it.
>
> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>
> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>
> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
> engaging?
>
> Any idea?
>
> thanks

Or it's actually a DC coil and there is suppose to be a diode in
series some where ?

If there isn't any large amount of debris from what you think is
a dragging brake pad, I would leave it alone. It could be a design
feature to simply release the pad to allow them to slip freely and not
create a gap between the disc. This would allow for the quickest
engagement of the pads when the hoist is deactivated and thus less
mechanical slip jerk.

I suppose it could be a AC coil with at shaded ring tip in the
core, if that is the case, there should be some sign of over heated
coil wire that would indicate a few shorted turns, if you can see them.

Also, do do make coils with embedded diodes.

Jamie

== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:21 am
From: Ignoramus22978

Here's a picture.

http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html

i
On 2011-11-13, Ignoramus22978 <ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:
> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
> supplied to it.
>
> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>
> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>
> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
> engaging?
>
> Any idea?
>
> thanks

== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:28 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jamie wrote:
>
> Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>
> > I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
> > solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
> > supplied to it.
> >
> > The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
> > away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
> > point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
> > disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
> >
> > I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
> > noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
> > end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
> > it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
> >
> > I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
> > pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
> > engaging?
> >
> > Any idea?
> >
> > thanks
>
> Or it's actually a DC coil and there is suppose to be a diode in
> series some where ?

Sigh. As usual, Maynard (AKA: jamie) misses the point. It takes more
than a diode in series to convert an AC solenoid into a DC solenoid.
You also need a filter capacitor or you are trying to operate it on a
half cycle of the AC waveform, giving you 230 * .707 or 162.61 volts
which is 50% of the power of a full cycle. With the filter capacitor
you get 230 * 1.414 or 325.22 DC

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:34 am
From: BQ340

On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:

>> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>> engaging?
>>
>> Any idea?
>>
>> thanks

There would be more than 2 terminals on it if it had multiple windings.

MikeB

--
Email is valid but not checked often

== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:54 am
From: GeorgeD

On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
> Here's a picture.
>
> http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html
>
> i
> On 2011-11-13, Ignoramus22978<ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:
>> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
>> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
>> supplied to it.
>>
>> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
>> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
>> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
>> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>>
>> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
>> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
>> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
>> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>>
>> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>> engaging?
>>
>> Any idea?
>>
>> thanks
That solenoid requires that the pole pieces be in contact. Then it will
hold (strongly). If it can not close completely, it will vibrate. Not
much of a puller, but a big holder.

Check to make sure it can pull in fully and that the poles are not
cruded up. It looks like it only needs some cleaning and TLC.

There is only one coil. You get what you see.

== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:04 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/13/2011 9:54 AM, GeorgeD wrote:
> That solenoid requires that the pole pieces be in contact. Then it will
> hold (strongly). If it can not close completely, it will vibrate. Not
> much of a puller, but a big holder.

Looks like your typical washing machine part. And yes, lots of hold
power when the pole pieces touch.

> Check to make sure it can pull in fully and that the poles are not
> cruded up. It looks like it only needs some cleaning and TLC.

Serious case of corrosion there. No telling how much surface crud
on the sliding parts.

> There is only one coil.

Of course, but we still have to listen to Maynard's view of multi-
windings and embedded diodes.

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:13 am
From: Jamie

GeorgeD wrote:

> On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>
>> Here's a picture.
>>
>> http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html
>>
>> i
>> On 2011-11-13, Ignoramus22978<ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
>>> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
>>> supplied to it.
>>>
>>> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
>>> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
>>> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
>>> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>>>
>>> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
>>> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
>>> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
>>> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>>>
>>> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>>> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>>> engaging?
>>>
>>> Any idea?
>>>
>>> thanks
>
> That solenoid requires that the pole pieces be in contact. Then it will
> hold (strongly). If it can not close completely, it will vibrate. Not
> much of a puller, but a big holder.
>
> Check to make sure it can pull in fully and that the poles are not
> cruded up. It looks like it only needs some cleaning and TLC.
>
> There is only one coil. You get what you see.
>
>
I didn't look at the picture before how ever, that solenoid needs replacing!

Between the corrosion, most likely in the wire too, the laminates
are most likely bad!

THat part of the equipment should be well closed to keep it much
cleaner than that!

P.S.

I know of an area of our work place where a whole bunch of new
solenoids are stored just for that hoist! We no longer have hoist
of that type in operation. The solenoids are kept on hand for R&D
material until they run out, they also make good look bolt retractors.

Jamie

== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:18 am
From: Jamie

Jeffrey Angus wrote:

> On 11/13/2011 9:54 AM, GeorgeD wrote:
>
>> That solenoid requires that the pole pieces be in contact. Then it will
>> hold (strongly). If it can not close completely, it will vibrate. Not
>> much of a puller, but a big holder.
>
>
> Looks like your typical washing machine part. And yes, lots of hold
> power when the pole pieces touch.
>
>> Check to make sure it can pull in fully and that the poles are not
>> cruded up. It looks like it only needs some cleaning and TLC.
>
>
> Serious case of corrosion there. No telling how much surface crud
> on the sliding parts.
>
>> There is only one coil.
>
>
> Of course, but we still have to listen to Maynard's view of multi-
> windings and embedded diodes.
>
> Jeff
>
>

You don't need to listen to me at all, if facts bother you then just
please put me on your ignore list, I wouldn't want to be responsible for
causing you any pain and agony.

It's a shame the simple minded can't see past their nose.

Jamie

== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:16 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Nov 13, 8:00 am, Ignoramus22978 <ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22978.invalid> wrote:
> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
> supplied to it.
>
> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>
> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>
> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
> engaging?
>
> Any idea?
>
> thanks

Have you thought of contacting the manufactirer?

== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:25 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/13/2011 10:18 AM, Jamie wrote:
> It's a shame the simple minded can't see past their nose.

How ironic.

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:43 am
From: Jamie

Jeffrey Angus wrote:

> On 11/13/2011 10:18 AM, Jamie wrote:
>
>> It's a shame the simple minded can't see past their nose.
>
>
> How ironic.
>
> Jeff
>
Yeah, isn't it?

Hope you enjoy your dilemma..

Have a nice day.

Jamie

== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:46 am
From: Tony Miklos

On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
> Here's a picture.
>
> http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html

I don't see the wires. How many wires does the solenoid have?

== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:52 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:21:30 -0600, Ignoramus22978
<ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:

>Here's a picture.
>http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html

Clean off the corrosion before blundering forward. It's likely that
the jerkiness is cuased by corrosion or rust on the moving parts of
the solenoid. I suggest you tear it apart, clean off what can be
easily removed, use a wire brush on everything else, coat is with some
kind of sealer (clear acrylic), and make sure everything moves easily
and correctly before reassembling. If that's too much, it looks like
the solenoid can be removed with 4 screws and a cotter pin, so start
cleaning there.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Appa 63N multimeter, display turns entirely on
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7af8068666e69fda?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:52 am
From: Sonnich Jensen

Hi

I got this as broken, they said I just have to find the right place to
the rotating selector, but after cleaning it and rotating it for some
time, I see that when I turn it on, the display just comes on,
everyinh (8888), only for uA I get the uA sign, the only thing I can
control in the display

Have anyone seen this before? Any suggestions?

WBR
Sonnich

==============================================================================
TOPIC: practical lubricity
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cc5af4e785fa664?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:30 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

The car holder for my GPS navigation system uses a ball-and-socket joint. It
holds the unit without any slipping -- but no matter how much I fuss with
it, I can never get it into exactly the position I want. There's simply too
much friction, both static and moving.

I've tried silicone spray lube, but it doesn't do much good. I've thought of
lithium grease, but... Nah.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

--
"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right
questions." -- Edwin Land

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:55 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:30:07 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>The car holder for my GPS navigation system uses a ball-and-socket joint. It
>holds the unit without any slipping -- but no matter how much I fuss with
>it, I can never get it into exactly the position I want. There's simply too
>much friction, both static and moving.
>
>I've tried silicone spray lube, but it doesn't do much good. I've thought of
>lithium grease, but... Nah.
>
>Any suggestions?

Nope. If you do find a suitable lubricant, there won't be enough
friction to hold it in place when the car bounces down the road. I
think taking the ball and socket apart, and cleaning or polishing the
mechanism, will probably work better. If you must lubricate the
plastic, I suggest something dry, such as talcum powder.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en