sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling - 7
messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
* Re-winding solenoids. - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd7d7813745e3da8?hl=en
* practical lubricity - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cc5af4e785fa664?hl=en
* taking apart pcmci card? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f03ff8e466d471a?hl=en
* PS3: red LED flashes - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/016f259658d5333e?hl=en
* Tektronix 2215A worth repair? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc4cb167c05d84fd?hl=en
* Interesting Find - Tech Spray Blue Stuff - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9f722bf804b1612?hl=en
* HP Photosmart C8180 All-In-One repaired - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93d07d1a1ef901b0?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hoist brake solenoid buzzes/fluckers instead of steadily pulling
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fc90a76b7174fce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 12:27 pm
From: Gunner Asch

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:00:33 -0600, Ignoramus22978
<ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:

>I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
>solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
>supplied to it.
>
>The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
>away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
>point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
>disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>
>I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
>noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
>end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
>it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>
>I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>engaging?
>
>Any idea?
>
>thanks

Check to see if its not wired up for 440/480

Most of those hoists are dual voltage and while they will run on 220 if
wired for 440..the solenoids most often will not

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:30 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jamie wrote:
>
> The point is that he goes out of his way making an idiot of himself, he
> can't even get my identity correct. I am not the only user with this name.

Maynard A Philbrook JR is the only one with the callsign KA1LPA.

http://call-signs.findthebest.com/l/63823/KA1LPA

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:51 pm
From: Ignoramus22978

On 2011-11-13, Tony Miklos <Tony.Miklos@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 11/13/2011 12:48 PM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>> On 2011-11-13, Tony Miklos<Tony.Miklos@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>>>> Here's a picture.
>>>>
>>>> http://boss-proxy.chudov.com/tmp/tmp-0432.jpg.html
>>>
>>> I don't see the wires. How many wires does the solenoid have?
>>
>> Two.
>
> I've also worked on solenoids like that that have a switch and a
> resistor for the "hold" circuit. Follow the wires. Same thing, if the
> resistor or that circuit is open the solenoid will chatter open and closed.
>
> This is assuming the solenoid does chatter, as if it's being turned on
> and off rapidly, like a machine gun.

This is exactly what it does.

> If it's just hanging up part way and buzzing then I'd agree with the
> people who said to clean it up or replace it.

No, it chatters like a machine gun.

i

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:52 pm
From: Ignoramus22978

On 2011-11-13, Gunner Asch <gunnerasch@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:00:33 -0600, Ignoramus22978
><ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:
>
>>I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
>>solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
>>supplied to it.
>>
>>The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
>>away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
>>point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
>>disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>>
>>I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
>>noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
>>end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
>>it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>>
>>I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>>pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>>engaging?
>>
>>Any idea?
>>
>>thanks
>
> Check to see if its not wired up for 440/480
>
> Most of those hoists are dual voltage and while they will run on 220 if
> wired for 440..the solenoids most often will not

The hoist can be entirely rewired for 240/480. It actually WAS wired
for 480 and I had to rewire. So, you are saying that to complete this
transition to 240, I would have to replace the solenoid?

i

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 7:05 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/13/2011 8:52 PM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
> The hoist can be entirely rewired for 240/480. It actually WAS wired
> for 480 and I had to rewire. So, you are saying that to complete this
> transition to 240, I would have to replace the solenoid?
>
> i

Ok, let's back up a bit. WHEN was the last time the hoist worked
like it should? When it was installed and operating on 480 v?

Or was it working at some point when re-wired for 240 v and THEN
started to act up with the brake solenoid?

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 10:23 pm
From: "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:28:30 -0500, Tony Miklos
<Tony.Miklos@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 11/13/2011 9:00 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>> I have a 3 phase Yale 1/2 ton hoist. It has an electric brake with a
>> solenoid, whose job is to pull away the brake lever when 230VAC is
>> supplied to it.
>>
>> The problem is that it does not do it. Instead of steadily pulling
>> away, it constantly jerks the lever, but never far enough to the end
>> point where it is supposed to be pulled away. So, the brake is not
>> disengaged as the hoist operates. I am glad that I noticed that.
>>
>> I tried pulling on the lever by hand when the solenoid was engaged. I
>> noticed that if I help the solenoid and pull away the lever to the
>> end, jerking stops completely, but if I slowly let go of the lever and
>> it returns to the brake position, jerking resumes.
>>
>> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>> engaging?
>>
>> Any idea?
>>
>> thanks
>
>It may have two windings on one coil. I deal with solenoids like that
>all the time. The first strong winding pulls it in then opens a "end of
>stroke" switch so it doesn't burn up. Then the second weaker winding is
>just strong enough to hold it and can stay energized without burning up.
> If the second weak winding is broke, you get a chattering action.

That would be a "Pick and Hold" solenoid. The "Pick" is the strong
winding with the switch, and the Hold would be the weak constant
winding.

And the Pick might not be able to pick without the Hold being
energized too, so it buzzes and doesn't open all the way. Or it's
bouncing on the end switch - hard to tell without looking.

Check the connections - If it's two separate windings, there might be
a loose lead.

--<< Bruce >>--

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 10:39 pm
From: "Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable)"

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 11:47:07 -0600, Ignoramus22978
<ignoramus22978@NOSPAM.22978.invalid> wrote:

>On 2011-11-13, BQ340 <bq340@Adelphia.net> wrote:
>> On 11/13/2011 10:21 AM, Ignoramus22978 wrote:
>>
>>>> I am thinking that perhaps this solenoid has two separate coils,
>>>> pulling and holding one, and the holding one is not working or not
>>>> engaging?
>>>>
>>>> Any idea?
>>>>
>>>> thanks
>>
>> There would be more than 2 terminals on it if it had multiple windings.
>>
>> MikeB
>>
>
>OK, I kind of suspected that also (based on my past diesel generator
>experiences).

Yup, it's just a standard box solenoid, probably Dormeyer they make
zillions of them - and all crapped up inside that end-bell. If it was
something fancy it would look it.

Take it apart and clean up all the sliding and metal surfaces, a
little dab of Lubriplate white grease on the moving pole pieces inside
the solenoid, and hit it with some clear-coat to stop the surface rust
on the metal parts - and stop leaving it outside in the rain.

You do NOT want to pull an "Honest Al Babin" and start painting all
over the insides. You want to see if something is starting to crack.

--<< Bruce >>--

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Re-winding solenoids.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd7d7813745e3da8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 1:08 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

A follow up to this exercise.

Using 1/16" PVC for the ends and schedule 40 1/2" PVC
for the core, I wound 2000 turns of #28 wire on the
form and put things together to test them.

It works with 240 VAC across the bridge rectifier now.

And yes, the coil heats up. It's trying to dissipate
1440 watts. (240 VAC @ 6 amps)

The contacts on the transfer switch disconnect the
solenoid coil from power as soon as it starts to move.
Inertia carries it through the sequence.

Jeff-1.0

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 4:19 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 15:08:29 -0600, Jeffrey Angus <grendelair@aim.com>
wrote:

>And yes, the coil heats up. It's trying to dissipate
>1440 watts. (240 VAC @ 6 amps)

You might want to add a thermal fuse in series with the coil. It the
contactor gets stuck in the energized position, you might have a fire.

>The contacts on the transfer switch disconnect the
>solenoid coil from power as soon as it starts to move.
>Inertia carries it through the sequence.

That happens it the actuator gets stuck or if the energizing voltage
is unusually low? Duz it stick in the "on" state?

Worrying about the widows and orphans this might harm...

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:47 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/13/2011 6:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 15:08:29 -0600, Jeffrey Angus<grendelair@aim.com>
> wrote:
>
>> >And yes, the coil heats up. It's trying to dissipate
>> >1440 watts. (240 VAC @ 6 amps)
> You might want to add a thermal fuse in series with the coil. It the
> contactor gets stuck in the energized position, you might have a fire.

There is that. See below...

>> >The contacts on the transfer switch disconnect the
>> >solenoid coil from power as soon as it starts to move.
>> >Inertia carries it through the sequence.
> That happens it the actuator gets stuck or if the energizing voltage
> is unusually low? Duz it stick in the "on" state?
>
> Worrying about the widows and orphans this might harm...

See, now this is where everyone got upset over nothing.

This whole exercise was to see _IF_ I could correctly wind a
replacement solenoid for 240 V rather than the original 480 V.

Now that I've satisfied my curiosity, I'm going to sell it in
it's original format (480 v 3-phase) as THAT is where it's value
lies.

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 8:43 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:47:45 -0600, Jeffrey Angus <grendelair@aim.com>
wrote:

>This whole exercise was to see _IF_ I could correctly wind a
>replacement solenoid for 240 V rather than the original 480 V.
>
>Now that I've satisfied my curiosity, I'm going to sell it in
>it's original format (480 v 3-phase) as THAT is where it's value
>lies.

So, this was all an academic exercise, with no practical purpose or
monetary value? Had I known, I would have been less helpful and more
insulting. You should feel guilty for having wasted my time. For
penitence, please either flog yourself, or send me an appropriate
percentage of the proceeds.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 9:23 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/13/2011 10:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> send me an appropriate percentage of the proceeds.

Fear not fearless leader, I'll remember to cut you in.

Jeff-1.0

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

==============================================================================
TOPIC: practical lubricity
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cc5af4e785fa664?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 1:38 pm
From: etpm@whidbey.com

On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:45:22 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> I use this stuff for locks and clockwork indicators called "TRI-FLOW".
>> I know that Teflon oils seem to be all hype but the stuff actually
>> works better than any other oil I've used for locks. Doesn't gum up
>> the locks and penetrates well. Maybe it will also help with the static
>> friction problem you have. Stiction is a problem with some mechanical
>> measuring instruments I use in the machine shop because they get oil
>> on them and gum up. Clock oil doesn't work as well as Tri-Flow does
>> for these tools. I think it's because the solvent in the stuff allows
>> it to penetrate better and the residue left behind isn't very tacky.
>
>Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for it.
>
>By the way, I neglected to mention that the ball-and-socket is plastic, with
>a metal band in the socket.
>
Then I'd be careful using my suggestion because the solvent in the
stuff may attack the plastic. I assumed metal parts. There is some
other stuff I use on rubber parts, like the window gaskets in my car
and truck. It's a dry lube made by, I think, Borden. Anyway it's some
type of white looking powder suspended or dissolved in some type of
fast drying liquid or solvent and comes in a spray can. I sprayed the
stuff on the rubber gaskets and now the windows go up and down much
easier. Of course it also may attack the plastic.
Eric

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 2:05 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> By the way, I neglected to mention that the ball-and-socket is plastic,
>> with a metal band in the socket.

> Then I'd be careful using my suggestion because the solvent in the
> stuff may attack the plastic. I assumed metal parts. There is some
> other stuff I use on rubber parts, like the window gaskets in my car
> and truck. It's a dry lube made by, I think, Borden. Anyway it's some
> type of white looking powder suspended or dissolved in some type of
> fast drying liquid or solvent and comes in a spray can. I sprayed the
> stuff on the rubber gaskets and now the windows go up and down much
> easier. Of course it also may attack the plastic.

"If it's Borden... it's got to be good."

I've also thought of using graphite powder.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 2:46 pm
From: mike

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:30:07 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> The car holder for my GPS navigation system uses a ball-and-socket joint. It
>> holds the unit without any slipping -- but no matter how much I fuss with
>> it, I can never get it into exactly the position I want. There's simply too
>> much friction, both static and moving.
>>
>> I've tried silicone spray lube, but it doesn't do much good. I've thought of
>> lithium grease, but... Nah.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>
> Nope. If you do find a suitable lubricant, there won't be enough
> friction to hold it in place when the car bounces down the road. I
> think taking the ball and socket apart, and cleaning or polishing the
> mechanism, will probably work better. If you must lubricate the
> plastic, I suggest something dry, such as talcum powder.
>

What he said...
Assume you've tried the obvious technique of applying rotation to the
ball joint while implementating the desired translation?

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:16 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j9phcd$7b1$1@dont-email.me...

> Assume you've tried the obvious technique of applying rotation
> to the ball joint while implementating the desired translation?

Of course. The socket is designed for tightness at the expense of ease of
movement.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:45 pm
From: mike

William Sommerwerck wrote:
> "mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:j9phcd$7b1$1@dont-email.me...
>
>> Assume you've tried the obvious technique of applying rotation
>> to the ball joint while implementing the desired translation?
>
> Of course. The socket is designed for tightness at the expense of ease of
> movement.
>
>
And you want to defeat that design objective that keeps the device
stable under vibration.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:51 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j9pkr2$qrq$3@dont-email.me...
> William Sommerwerck wrote:
> > "mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:j9phcd$7b1$1@dont-email.me...

>>> Assume you've tried the obvious technique of applying rotation
>>> to the ball joint while implementing the desired translation?

>> Of course. The socket is designed for tightness at the expense
>> of ease of movement.

> And you want to defeat that design objective that keeps the device
> stable under vibration.

Wrong assumption. You're assuming that making the joint easier to move
smoothly will necessarily cause it to change position under normal use. My
Focus does not vibrate, except on rough road.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: taking apart pcmci card?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3f03ff8e466d471a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 2:00 pm
From: John Robertson

KORISNIK wrote:
> how do you go about opening the pcmci to 4usb adapter
> at least the black plastic front box(made up of top with 4openings and
> bottom-floor)without breaking it -the central connector got desoldered
> http://www.google.ru/imgres?q=pcmcia+usb+cardbus+nec&um=1&hl=en&newwindow=1&sa=N&biw=1280&bih=611&tbm=isch&tbnid=MVp4GUx7Q2hHUM:&imgrefurl=http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/mimocrys/product-detailVeqJmxwOgUhT/China-4-PORT-NEC-USB-2-0-Cardbus-PCMCIA-Adapter-Laptop.html&docid=2Pms4R3IbC0E_M&imgurl=http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00qevaTtwJHzbR/4-PORT-NEC-USB-2-0-Cardbus-PCMCIA-Adapter-Laptop.jpg&w=400&h=292&ei=2vC-TuTfOab64QShnqGSBA&zoom=1

Usually the metal cover shell is held in place by tiny flaps, I would
gently pry on the sides of that shell to see if you can find how it is
secured. It might be the shell is secured under the plastic film
label(s) - if you press on the label(s) and you fell any indents then I
would carefully peel it back using cold spray to release the adhesive.

Try not to bend it!

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PS3: red LED flashes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/016f259658d5333e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 2:49 pm
From: Ray Carlsen

This may have been discussed here before but I'm retired now and don't
drop in here often. My son's 4 year old Playstation 3 has suddenly died.
Powerup shows the green LED, then yellow followed quickly by 3 beeps and
the red LED flashing. The PS checks good (caps ESR OK and O'scope
clean). Searching the net, I found a few people heating up the main
processor and another big IC near it with a heat gun, supposedly to
reflow solder connections under those chips. I tried that, no go. Does
anyone here know the strait dope on those game units... why all of them
eventually puke that way and perhaps a more reliable fix? Supposedly
Sony will repair one for $150 out of warranty but is as likely to swap
it out. They obviously know what's happening to their units but want to
sell new rather than repair old. Are the new ones any better?

Ray Carlsen
Carlsen Electronics... a leader in trailing-edge technology

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 3:40 pm
From: Adrian C

On 13/11/2011 22:49, Ray Carlsen wrote:
> This may have been discussed here before but I'm retired now and don't
> drop in here often. My son's 4 year old Playstation 3 has suddenly died.
> Powerup shows the green LED, then yellow followed quickly by 3 beeps and
> the red LED flashing. The PS checks good (caps ESR OK and O'scope
> clean). Searching the net, I found a few people heating up the main
> processor and another big IC near it with a heat gun, supposedly to
> reflow solder connections under those chips. I tried that, no go. Does
> anyone here know the strait dope on those game units... why all of them
> eventually puke that way and perhaps a more reliable fix?

Google PS3 BGA reball

--
Adrian C

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:37 pm
From: Ray Carlsen

> Google PS3 BGA reball

Thanks, Adrian. The first thought that came to mind when I saw the
reball video is that I've lived too long. ;-) I might try the "flux and
reheat" process. My eyes are just not up to any more than that.

Ray

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tektronix 2215A worth repair?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc4cb167c05d84fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 5:13 pm
From: Geoff

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in
news:9i1ctvFq2fU1@mid.individual.net:

>
> "Geoff"
>
>> I took the case off and no difference, your implied
>> suggestion that a change in magnetic field caused this
>> matches what I observe, ie no electronic settings change
>> the waveform, it looks like when someone shoves a magnet
>> near a crt. I have not removed the tube screen but I have
>> shaken it and nothing like a magnet bouncing around can be
>> heard,
>
>
> ** The CRT is a *mesh PDA* type - right ?
>
> There must be a chance the steel mesh has become
> magnetised.
>
> Suggest you play around with a small magnet near the tube
> face and see what happens.
>
> FYI:
>
> There is a fine steel mesh just behind the face of the tube
> that has final acceleration voltage applied to it - if you
> de-focus the beam you can usually see the pattern of the
> mesh projected onto the phosphor.
>
>
>
>
> ... Phil
>
>
>

Links below for pics taken with webcam. Mesh is visible.
I have played around with a magnet, can get trace to wobble
around as expected but it comes back to the same position once
magnet removed. This is true for the unshielded part behind
screen and the conical tube shield. I will try a degausser
once I find or make one

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/triode101/focus_limit
_ccw1.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/triode101/focus_limit
_cw1.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/triode101/focus_limit
_ccw2.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/triode101/2215a.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/triode101/2215b.jpg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Interesting Find - Tech Spray Blue Stuff
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9f722bf804b1612?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 5:21 pm
From: gregz

"Chris F." <zappyman@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I recently bought a bunch of stuff from another closed-out repair shop,
> and came across a rather interesting find. It's a very old can of Tech Spray
> Blue Stuff, it's nearly full and still works. I remembered that 30+ years
> ago (a bit before my time), many tuner sprays contained freon - some Zenith
> tuners actually had stickers specifying it's exclusive use. Curious, I
> sprayed a bit on my finger and found it extremely cold. Could this be a
> (presumably rare) freon-based product of long ago? And is it something I
> could actually use, on vintage TV tuners? And would it have any value to
> collectors?

Most sprays come out cold, some have butane.
I bought a couple cans about 3-4 years ago, NOS.

Greg

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TOPIC: HP Photosmart C8180 All-In-One repaired
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93d07d1a1ef901b0?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 13 2011 6:02 pm
From: Ray Carlsen

Device: HP Model C8180 Photosmart All-In-One Printer/Scanner/Copier

Fault: When plugged in, it power cycles over and over by itself. No
functions work including Reset (holding power button at AC in).

Repair: Replace four electrolytic capacitors on the internal power
supply board: C613 and C660 (330uF at 10V), C614 and C662 (680uF at
6.3V). Those caps are standard through-hole radials branded "Teapo", are
green in color. Two of them were bulged at the top. The other caps on
that board are brown or black in color, are a different brand, and all
tested good with an ESR meter. They were not replaced.
That power supply board gets 32VDC from the external power pack and
from that source generates all the voltages needed by the All-In-One.
The board is located just inside the right side panel where the external
PS plugs in. Four T10 Torx screws secure that right outer cover and four
more hold the PS board in place. There are about a dozen connector
cables that need to be detached to remove the board for service. Be
careful when dealing with those tiny connectors and be mindful that the
board has a 3V button battery for memory backup. Most electronic devices
made nowadays look like a computer motherboard (lots of chips and other
tiny components and lead-free solder), so work carefully to prevent
damage to other components.

Ray Carlsen
Carlsen Electronics... a leader in trailing-edge technology

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