sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 4 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Ion it USB turntable - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a4174ad69858759?hl=en
* Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper - 16 messages, 12 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
* Sharp GF 990G ghetto blaster - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/87b2eef7dbd95b2e?hl=en
* Editing a pdf file ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ion it USB turntable
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a4174ad69858759?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:09 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


josephkk wrote:

> Pretty much true, but there is always resale value. Original vinyl in
> very good condition gets a much better price. And sometimes i have to do
> a second capture due to a gonk or other problem in the first one. Decent
> equipment always does the job better than crap.

About 10 years ago a gradute student did a project (I assume for a master's
thesis) where he developed software to "read" the music from a disk
by scanning it using a desktop scanner and processing the raw scanned file.

From what I remember researching it a few years ago, it never went any farther.

IMHO it would bear revisiting because of the improved scanners we have today
(although there are very few ones that can accomodate a 12 inch LP) and
the improved computers. There also has been more research in such things,
but not this one application.

Considering that even with good equipment there is a small amount of wear
caused by the stylus reading the disk and an optical scanner causes none,
one could scan the disk 10 or even 100 times and combine them to improve
accuracy.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM
My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-(


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:29 am
From: Nelson


On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 03:09:04 -0500, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote
(in article <slrnjchdam.82n.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>):

> josephkk wrote:
>
>> Pretty much true, but there is always resale value. Original vinyl in
>> very good condition gets a much better price. And sometimes i have to do
>> a second capture due to a gonk or other problem in the first one. Decent
>> equipment always does the job better than crap.
>
> About 10 years ago a gradute student did a project (I assume for a master's
> thesis) where he developed software to "read" the music from a disk
> by scanning it using a desktop scanner and processing the raw scanned file.
>
> From what I remember researching it a few years ago, it never went any
> farther.
>
> IMHO it would bear revisiting because of the improved scanners we have today
> (although there are very few ones that can accomodate a 12 inch LP) and
> the improved computers. There also has been more research in such things,
> but not this one application.
>
> Considering that even with good equipment there is a small amount of wear
> caused by the stylus reading the disk and an optical scanner causes none,
> one could scan the disk 10 or even 100 times and combine them to improve
> accuracy.
>
> Geoff.
>
>

Actually there are a lot of people doing this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_turntable

There is even a guy who can recover sound from photographs of old
records :-)

--
Nelson

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:31 am
From: Nelson


On Sat, 19 Nov 2011 22:17:28 -0500, josephkk wrote
(in article <s3sgc7t7os7scbidpovmcjp5n5tucifamu@4ax.com>):

[snip]

> Decent equipment always does the job better than crap.

True, but then financial reality always intrudes and we are forced to
deal with trade-offs :-)

--
Nelson

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:39 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"josephkk" <joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:errgc75figkniilas6i5aki0mt00s1dd20@4ax.com...
On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 18:05:35 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> If all else fails, bypass the circuitry and just wire the cartridge up
>>> to the RCA output sockets, then you can use the deck like a 'normal
>>> 'TT with any amp having a Phono input.

>> This unit probably has a ceramic pickup. If so, that won't work.

> Really? Has anybody made those in the past 50 years?

99% of all stereo consoles used ceramic pickups. Almost all USB turntables
use ceramic pickups.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:41 am
From: "N_Cook"


P E Schoen <paul@pstech-inc.com> wrote in message
news:a4_xq.6861$ov2.2972@newsfe10.iad...
I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank. It
seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought it was a
bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.

So I took it apart, which meant peeling off a foil backing to expose four
small phillips head screws, which removed the electronics module, and then I
removed the PC board with four even smaller phillips screws. The LCD display
connects to the board with a flexible conductive strip, which relies on
pressure to maintain contact. I cleaned it and the mating contacts on the
PCB, reassembled it, and it now works fine!

My house is always very humid and I think that's what caused the problem.
It's hell on all my tools. Everything is rusty or mildewed.

It's quite interesting to see the mechanism that is used to make
measurements. There is an array of PCB traces that are aligned with an array
of stripes along the length of the caliper, and (I assume) these create
pulses that are counted as the head is moved. But it also needs to know
which way the head is being moved. Probably something like a quadrature
encoder as used for rotary position sensing. I'll have to look it up.

Paul


++++

It is usually a Moire fringe counting mechanism. The system like when you
move along a street and look through a set of railings to another set of
railings and you see a moving "interference" pattern. Set 2 fine grills over
one another at slight relative angle and these fringes become wide enough to
be reliably counted by a relatively large opto device, 10 or more times
wider than the spacing between the grating lines


== 2 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:38 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9FA2ED4AFED51jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...

> I wonder if Cramolin/DeOxit would work on the conductive strip?

I assume the strip is carbon-impregnated rubber (or some synthetic polymer).
Cramolin/DeOxit remove surface oxidation. I don't the latter as being
compatible with the former.


== 3 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 4:41 am
From: amdx


On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
> It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
> it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
>

That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
about batteries or electronics.
(Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)

Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
$9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
Mikek


== 4 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:03 am
From: "N_Cook"


amdx <amdx@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
news:4756b$4ec8f55d$18ec6dd7$12472@KNOLOGY.NET...
> On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
> > I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> > problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
> > It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
> > it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
> >
>
> That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
> about batteries or electronics.
> (Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>
> Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
> $9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
> calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
> Mikek

I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws, close
jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the count
must be lost each time it is switched off


== 5 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:17 am
From: "Stormin Mormon"


Cleaned, how? Trichlor? WD? Cotton swab?

Have you considered something to reduce the humidity, like
vent fan, central AC, or dehumidifier?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"P E Schoen" <paul@pstech-inc.com> wrote in message
news:a4_xq.6861$ov2.2972@newsfe10.iad...
I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and
I've had
problems with one of them especially, where the display will
go blank. It
seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I
thought it was a
bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't
work.

So I took it apart, which meant peeling off a foil backing
to expose four
small phillips head screws, which removed the electronics
module, and then I
removed the PC board with four even smaller phillips screws.
The LCD display
connects to the board with a flexible conductive strip,
which relies on
pressure to maintain contact. I cleaned it and the mating
contacts on the
PCB, reassembled it, and it now works fine!

My house is always very humid and I think that's what caused
the problem.
It's hell on all my tools. Everything is rusty or mildewed.

It's quite interesting to see the mechanism that is used to
make
measurements. There is an array of PCB traces that are
aligned with an array
of stripes along the length of the caliper, and (I assume)
these create
pulses that are counted as the head is moved. But it also
needs to know
which way the head is being moved. Probably something like a
quadrature
encoder as used for rotary position sensing. I'll have to
look it up.

Paul


== 6 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:29 am
From: "Dave Plumpe"


Not only do they remember where Zero is, they even keep track of any
movement that occurs while they're turned off. Smart little devils.

I find myself more & more reaching for the digital ones for the ease of
swapping between inches & millimeters.

-Dave
--
http://plumpe.home.mindspring.com
email: lastname@mindspring.com
ANTI-SPAM: To email, replace "lastname" with "plumpe"
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jaatmo$4n4$1@dont-email.me...
>
> I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws,
> close
> jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the
> count
> must be lost each time it is switched off
>


== 7 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:25 am
From: stans4@prolynx.com


On Nov 20, 6:03 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> amdx <a...@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
>
> news:4756b$4ec8f55d$18ec6dd7$12472@KNOLOGY.NET...
>
> > On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
> > > I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> > > problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
> > > It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
> > > it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
>
> > That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
> > about batteries or electronics.
> > (Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>
> > Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
> > $9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
> > calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
> >                                   Mikek
>
> I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws, close
> jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the count
> must be lost each time it is switched off

Used to be, they've improved things. On at least some, the count is
kept live and just the display is switched off. It all goes away when
batteries are switched, but that can be lived with.

Stan


== 8 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:33 am
From: greenpjs@neo.rr.com


On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:41:03 -0600, amdx <amdx@knologynotthis.net>
wrote:

>On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
>> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
>> problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
>> It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
>> it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
>>
>
>That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
>about batteries or electronics.
>(Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>
>Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
>$9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
>calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
> Mikek

I bought one of those and really like it. It seems comparable to
calipers costing many time more. The only problem is I have to remove
the battery when I am done using it or it is dead the next time I get
it out. I have a feeling that is why they were selling them for
$9.99. Fortuneately, it is easy to remove and reinsert the battery.


== 9 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:38 am
From: "N_Cook"


Dave Plumpe <lastname@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:dcCdnbxH1tldnVTTnZ2dnUVZ_qednZ2d@earthlink.com...
> Not only do they remember where Zero is, they even keep track of any
> movement that occurs while they're turned off. Smart little devils.
>
> I find myself more & more reaching for the digital ones for the ease of
> swapping between inches & millimeters.
>
> -Dave
> --
> http://plumpe.home.mindspring.com
> email: lastname@mindspring.com
> ANTI-SPAM: To email, replace "lastname" with "plumpe"
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:jaatmo$4n4$1@dont-email.me...
> >
> > I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws,
> > close
> > jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the
> > count
> > must be lost each time it is switched off
> >
>
>

An engineer told me never close the jaws of a micrometer or vernier calipers
for storage, leave the jaws open slightly. Do these digitally things require
the jaws closing before switching off ? How do they know of any movement of
the jaws when switched off elsewise?


== 10 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:41 am
From: "N_Cook"


<stans4@prolynx.com> wrote in message
news:0156c7a7-8bb2-4f32-922b-89bdd893a682@u6g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
On Nov 20, 6:03 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> amdx <a...@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
>
> news:4756b$4ec8f55d$18ec6dd7$12472@KNOLOGY.NET...
>
> > On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
> > > I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> > > problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
> > > It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
> > > it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't
work.
>
> > That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
> > about batteries or electronics.
> > (Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>
> > Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
> > $9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
> > calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
> > Mikek
>
> I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws,
close
> jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the
count
> must be lost each time it is switched off

Used to be, they've improved things. On at least some, the count is
kept live and just the display is switched off. It all goes away when
batteries are switched, but that can be lived with.

Stan

+++

So that explains , down thread, the drawback of dying batteries when
switched "off"


== 11 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:19 am
From: Fred Abse


On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:41:03 -0600, amdx wrote:

> That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
> about batteries or electronics.

I prefer a "proper" vernier. At least you can verify those by eye.I never
did trust digital calipers to hold their zero and not skip under workshop
conditions, Half a lifetime dealing with incremental encoders has made me
wary.

I *might* trust a Mitutoyo digital caliper or height gage in inspection
room conditions.

Dial calipers have all sorts of racks and gears to go sloppy.

I suppose nobody under fifty knows how to read a real vernier, or a slide
rule for that matter ;-(

--
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled."
(Richard Feynman)


== 12 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:22 am
From: Jamie


N_Cook wrote:

> <stans4@prolynx.com> wrote in message
> news:0156c7a7-8bb2-4f32-922b-89bdd893a682@u6g2000vbg.googlegroups.com...
> On Nov 20, 6:03 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>amdx <a...@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
>>
>>news:4756b$4ec8f55d$18ec6dd7$12472@KNOLOGY.NET...
>>
>>
>>>On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
>>>
>>>>I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
>>>>problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank.
>>>>It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought
>>>>it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't
>
> work.
>
>>>That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
>>>about batteries or electronics.
>>>(Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>>
>>>Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
>>>$9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
>>>calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
>>>Mikek
>>
>>I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws,
>
> close
>
>>jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the
>
> count
>
>>must be lost each time it is switched off
>
>
> Used to be, they've improved things. On at least some, the count is
> kept live and just the display is switched off. It all goes away when
> batteries are switched, but that can be lived with.
>
> Stan
>
> +++
>
> So that explains , down thread, the drawback of dying batteries when
> switched "off"
>
>
I have the HF digital calipers and I need to pull the battery when not
in use other wise, it'll be dead next time I need it. It seems to drain
quite fast.

Other than that, it seems to work very nicely..
Jamie

== 13 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:23 am
From: Jamie


N_Cook wrote:

> Dave Plumpe <lastname@mindspring.com> wrote in message
> news:dcCdnbxH1tldnVTTnZ2dnUVZ_qednZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
>>Not only do they remember where Zero is, they even keep track of any
>>movement that occurs while they're turned off. Smart little devils.
>>
>>I find myself more & more reaching for the digital ones for the ease of
>>swapping between inches & millimeters.
>>
>>-Dave
>>--
>>http://plumpe.home.mindspring.com
>>email: lastname@mindspring.com
>>ANTI-SPAM: To email, replace "lastname" with "plumpe"
>>"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>>news:jaatmo$4n4$1@dont-email.me...
>>
>>>I've never used the new-fangled ones - do you have to do a clean jaws,
>>>close
>>>jaws, zero calibration check/0 reset ,every time you use them ? as the
>>>count
>>>must be lost each time it is switched off
>>>
>>
>>
>
> An engineer told me never close the jaws of a micrometer or vernier calipers
> for storage, leave the jaws open slightly. Do these digitally things require
> the jaws closing before switching off ? How do they know of any movement of
> the jaws when switched off elsewise?
>
>
And the engineer was correct in saying so.

Jamie

== 14 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:23 am
From: Doug White


greenpjs@neo.rr.com wrote in
news:e70ic7h9g57un7siiftqmdtkfp1tdej9bd@4ax.com:

> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 06:41:03 -0600, amdx <amdx@knologynotthis.net>
> wrote:
>
>>On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
>>> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've
>>> had problems with one of them especially, where the display will go
>>> blank. It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and
>>> I thought it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh
>>> battery didn't work.
>>>
>>
>>That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
>>about batteries or electronics.
>>(Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>>
>>Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
>>$9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
>>calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
>> Mikek
>
> I bought one of those and really like it. It seems comparable to
> calipers costing many time more. The only problem is I have to remove
> the battery when I am done using it or it is dead the next time I get
> it out. I have a feeling that is why they were selling them for
> $9.99. Fortuneately, it is easy to remove and reinsert the battery.

The battery life in even high end calipers is highly variable. I have a
couple Mitutoyo calipers that are pretty good, but some of their
micrometers are terrible. I have an SPI micrometer that looks
suspiciously like a Chinese cheapo I have. They both need to have the
battery removed if you aren't actively using them. The SPI is a 24" job,
so it rarely gets used. There is no way the battery would last if I left
it in palce.

I discovered the hard way that the little cube electronic levels also eat
batteries, and they require a diet of the larger more expensive coin
cells (2032?). Most of my electronic measuring widgets use 357 style
button cells, and I buy them in quantity off eBay. Radio Shack is a real
ripoff for those things.

Doug White


== 15 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:46 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 13:38:36 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:
>An engineer told me never close the jaws of a micrometer or vernier calipers
>for storage, leave the jaws open slightly.

True. With gear type calipers, the lubricating grease tends to
migrate to that position. If a sufficiently filthy environment, an
lump of dirt encrusted grease will be left in that position. If it
happens to be at 0.0, then it will be difficult to accurately
calibrate the mechanism. There are also some minor reasons, such as
the tendency for two parallel surfaces to trap moisture between them
and rust.

>Do these digitally things require
>the jaws closing before switching off ?

No.

>How do they know of any movement of
>the jaws when switched off elsewise?

Only the display is turned off. The pulse counting mechanism is still
operating and functional. The downside is that the battery will be
dead in about 6-9 months. Most include a spare LR44 battery. I had
to buy a pile of them to keep my calipers going. Somehow, the battery
is usually dead when I need to use them.

50 batteries for $3.75
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/220751739681>

I have an expensive set of Starett calipers (both metric and US). I
use them more often than the electronic variety, mostly out of habit.
My most useful measuring tools are my 6" pocket steel scale and a tape
measure.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 16 of 16 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:55 am
From: Bob Engelhardt


Jamie wrote:
> I have the HF digital calipers and I need to pull the battery when not
> in use other wise, it'll be dead next time I need it. It seems to drain
> quite fast.
...

I have one & the battery lasts quite a while (doesn't get used much).
Maybe a different model. Or a different batch. Or different spots on
the quality curve <G>.

Bob

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sharp GF 990G ghetto blaster
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/87b2eef7dbd95b2e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 1:19 am
From: "N_Cook"


I will be renovating one of these next week, owner from new, was told only
100 came into the UK, probably 1982 from numerous IC "2.." datecodes. What
is the use for the "sound processor" as no display, but seems to have its
own 3V batteries for memory retention.
http://i32.tinypic.com/10d6yxx.jpg
The front comes away easily as do the 2 tape decks, hopefully just perished
rubber bands and minor owner-mangling problems

whole blaster
http://www.audiocircuit.com/A-Images/AA-Brands/S/Sharp-SHH/GF-990-G____-F-00
1-932-SHH.jpg


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:48 am
From: "N_Cook"


If it is 1982 it uses a very early minidin connector, 8 way, to connect the
umbilical to the music processor (not sound processor)


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:56 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"


"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jaagi4$13a$1@dont-email.me...
> I will be renovating one of these next week, owner from new, was told only
> 100 came into the UK, probably 1982 from numerous IC "2.." datecodes. What
> is the use for the "sound processor" as no display, but seems to have its
> own 3V batteries for memory retention.
> http://i32.tinypic.com/10d6yxx.jpg
> The front comes away easily as do the 2 tape decks, hopefully just
> perished
> rubber bands and minor owner-mangling problems


Here it is in action.
Can't see the point really, who wanted to have this five minute wonder
"feature"?!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBIsIltlphs

Gareth.


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Editing a pdf file ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:02 am
From: "Arfa Daily"


OK. So I've got a manual from a company that I'm doing some work for. It's a
pdf file, nice quality images. I want to combine a few of the images, to
create composite pages that I can print out tiled across four sheets. I
don't have a problem with the printing. The pdf viewer that I'm using at the
moment, allows for that, and I do it all the time to get printouts of
schematics up to a sensible size.

Where I am having trouble, is finding some software that will do a simple
(erasure) edit of part of a page. A 'for instance', then. One of the pages
shows a layout of one of the boards. I want to print it in the middle of a
4-sheet tile set, with a clear surround on all four sides so that I can
either hand annotate some of the things on it, or add in images from
elsewhere in the document. Trouble is, there's a bloody great header all
across the top of the page, and a footer at the bottom, so I want to either
(preferably) 'delete' these from the page, leaving just the board image, or
alternately, select the board image from the page, in its pdf format, and
drop it elsewhere, still in its full-res pdf format, without going through
any in-between conversions to bitmap or whatever, as happens if you use a
snapshot tool to dump it to the clipboard.

You would have thought it would be easy to find a piece of freeware that
could do a 'select - edit - cut' operation on a page, but I'm buggered if I
can find one. There are loads of packages out there that claim to be pdf
editors with endless features, and they do have, but none seem to have just
simple tools to allow me to do what I want.

I used to have a fully registered version of Acrobat, and I'm sure that
allowed you to do it, but I am no longer able to use it, because when I
upgraded my OS to Win 7, it was no longer compatible, and there was no route
within Adobe, to upgrade an existing installation.

So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
and select an area then copy and paste it ?

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:25 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


What you probably need is a program that can convert the document to "plain
form". You can edit it, then reconvert to PDF.

Type "pdf converter" in Google. There's a lot of free PDF converters out
there.

If necessary, you can send the edited material to me, and I'll do a PDF
conversion. (Thanks for the warning about W7.)


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