sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper - 13 messages, 11 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
* Editing a pdf file ... - 9 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en
* Promote your Business with Direct Marketing. - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ac8922a39e639941?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:55 am
From: Bob Engelhardt

Jamie wrote:
> I have the HF digital calipers and I need to pull the battery when not
> in use other wise, it'll be dead next time I need it. It seems to drain
> quite fast.
...

I have one & the battery lasts quite a while (doesn't get used much).
Maybe a different model. Or a different batch. Or different spots on
the quality curve <G>.

Bob

== 2 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 8:47 am
From: dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com

On Nov 19, 10:01 pm, "P E Schoen" <p...@pstech-inc.com> wrote:
> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank. It
> seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought it was a
> bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
>
> So I took it apart, which meant peeling off a foil backing to expose four
> small phillips head screws, which removed the electronics module, and then I
> removed the PC board with four even smaller phillips screws. The LCD display
> connects to the board with a flexible conductive strip, which relies on
> pressure to maintain contact. I cleaned it and the mating contacts on the
> PCB, reassembled it, and it now works fine!
>
> My house is always very humid and I think that's what caused the problem.
> It's hell on all my tools. Everything is rusty or mildewed.
>
> It's quite interesting to see the mechanism that is used to make
> measurements. There is an array of PCB traces that are aligned with an array
> of stripes along the length of the caliper, and (I assume) these create
> pulses that are counted as the head is moved. But it also needs to know
> which way the head is being moved. Probably something like a quadrature
> encoder as used for rotary position sensing. I'll have to look it up.
>
> Paul

http://www.biotele.com/digital_caliper.htm

--
Cheers,
James Arthur

== 3 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 11:04 am
From: "Martin Riddle"

"amdx" <amdx@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
news:4756b$4ec8f55d$18ec6dd7$12472@KNOLOGY.NET...
> On 11/19/2011 9:01 PM, P E Schoen wrote:
>> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
>> problems with one of them especially, where the display will go
>> blank.
>> It seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I
>> thought
>> it was a bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't
>> work.
>>
>
> That's why I like the Dial calipers vs Digital Calipers, no concern
> about batteries or electronics.
> (Dial Calipers, Item # 66541, Out of Stock)
>
> Although a couple years ago HF had the 6" Digital calipers on sale for
> $9.99, I bought two. They are still in the boxes and I use my Dial
> calipers. I think I might give one away as a Christmas present.
> Mikek

I have a vernier Calipe. I never need to set the dial, cause there isn't
one ;)

Cheers

== 4 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 11:09 am
From: dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com

On Nov 20, 11:55 am, Bob Engelhardt <bobengelha...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Jamie wrote:
> > I have the HF digital calipers and I need to pull the battery when not
> > in  use other wise, it'll be dead next time I need it. It seems to drain
> > quite fast.
>
> ...
>
> I have one & the battery lasts quite a while (doesn't get used much).
> Maybe a different model.  Or a different batch.  Or different spots on
> the quality curve <G>.
>
> Bob

Silver oxide batteries cost a bunch more, but last twice as long.

Full details: http://www.fliptronics.com/tip0006.html

--
Cheers,
James Arthur

== 5 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:03 pm
From: Gunner Asch

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:29:39 -0500, "Dave Plumpe"
<lastname@mindspring.com> wrote:

>Not only do they remember where Zero is, they even keep track of any
>movement that occurs while they're turned off. Smart little devils.
>
>I find myself more & more reaching for the digital ones for the ease of
>swapping between inches & millimeters.
>
>-Dave

As do I.

My Mitytoyo digital mics..never could figure out how they work
though..Ive got one thats had the same battery in it for 4 yrs so
far..still reading just fine and its always displaying whenever I open
the box

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

== 6 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:06 pm
From: Gunner Asch

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:23:32 GMT, Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu>
wrote:

>I discovered the hard way that the little cube electronic levels also eat
>batteries, and they require a diet of the larger more expensive coin
>cells (2032?).

Just a heads up..a lot of the local 99c stores sell a card with 3 to 5
of the 2032s for ....99c

I buy a couple cards every year just to have them on hand

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

== 7 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:26 pm
From: Too_Many_Tools

On Nov 19, 9:01 pm, "P E Schoen" <p...@pstech-inc.com> wrote:
> I have two Harbor Freight digital calipers, item #47257, and I've had
> problems with one of them especially, where the display will go blank. It
> seemed to work sometimes if I squeezed the enclosure, and I thought it was a
> bad battery or bad connection. But a fresh battery didn't work.
>
> So I took it apart, which meant peeling off a foil backing to expose four
> small phillips head screws, which removed the electronics module, and then I
> removed the PC board with four even smaller phillips screws. The LCD display
> connects to the board with a flexible conductive strip, which relies on
> pressure to maintain contact. I cleaned it and the mating contacts on the
> PCB, reassembled it, and it now works fine!
>
> My house is always very humid and I think that's what caused the problem.
> It's hell on all my tools. Everything is rusty or mildewed.
>
> It's quite interesting to see the mechanism that is used to make
> measurements. There is an array of PCB traces that are aligned with an array
> of stripes along the length of the caliper, and (I assume) these create
> pulses that are counted as the head is moved. But it also needs to know
> which way the head is being moved. Probably something like a quadrature
> encoder as used for rotary position sensing. I'll have to look it up.
>
> Paul

Interesting..it sounds like you may have a serious mold problem.

It can destroy a house if left untended.

TMT

== 8 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:36 pm
From: mike

Gunner Asch wrote:
> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:29:39 -0500, "Dave Plumpe"
> <lastname@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
>> Not only do they remember where Zero is, they even keep track of any
>> movement that occurs while they're turned off. Smart little devils.
>>
>> I find myself more & more reaching for the digital ones for the ease of
>> swapping between inches & millimeters.
>>
>> -Dave
>
> As do I.
>
> My Mitytoyo digital mics..never could figure out how they work
> though..Ive got one thats had the same battery in it for 4 yrs so
> far..still reading just fine and its always displaying whenever I open
> the box
>
> Gunner

Same here.
I bought several of the Harbor Freight ones back when they were on sale.
They're always dead. I have to take the battery out when not in use.
PITA, but I'm gonna have to replace it anyway if I leave it in.

My Mitutoyo has been going strong for years on the same battery.

== 9 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 3:14 pm
From: "P E Schoen"

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message news:jaaun0$a9m$1@dont-email.me...

> Cleaned, how? Trichlor? WD? Cotton swab?

I used rubbing alcohol, which I also use for defluxing PCBs. I also scraped
the surface and dried it with a paper towel.

> Have you considered something to reduce the humidity,
> like vent fan, central AC, or dehumidifier?

I've lived with the problem for a long time. I have two houses, adjacent to
each other, and the lower levels have a stone foundations built into a hill.
It is worse in the house where I have my workshop and storage. And the
houses are in a low-lying area under lots of trees and the water table is
close to the surface. I've also had leaks in the foundation as well as the
roof so moisture has gotten in. Some time ago I basically gutted both houses
and replaced the old rotten frame studs and mud sills with new
pressure-treated lumber, but did not add vapor barrier, insulation, or new
drywall, until recently, and only partially. Being below grade, it's like
being in a cave, and it's often so cold that a dehumidifier freezes up. And
without insulation and vapor barrier, it's almost futile to try.

You can see my houses, and some of the work I've done (and some of my
tools), on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/PaulAndMuttley#p/u/50/oxKL2p8O3EM
(there are also part 2 and part 3)

Paul
www.muttleydog.com

== 10 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 3:47 pm
From: gregz

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Nov 2011 22:19:11 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
> wrote:
>
>> I wonder if Cramolin/DeOxit would work on the conductive strip?
>
> <http://siber-sonic.com/electronics/caig.html>
> Sorta. The original Cramolin contained about 5% oleic acid, which is
> great for removing surface oxidation, but is also mildly corrosive to
> copper. The current version is DeOxit from Caig Labs. It comes in an
> amazing variety of forms, and is allegedly non-corrosive.
> <http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/.f>
> The MSDS data shows the active ingredients as a "trade secret". Oh
> well.

I never have been able to get much visible effect of so called corrosion
removers. Oleic acid probably being best, but supposedly the cramolin
chemist also had input on making deoxit. On a short term test I can visibly
wipe off oxide with an alcohol swipe, being just as effective. Most of the
removing is mechanical in nature, and any liquid helps.

Greg

== 11 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 4:47 pm
From: "Ron D."

I have a cheap Caliper too and it recently went flakey.

I did my standard trick: Remove battery. Short battery contacts:
Insert new battery. Worked.

Mine uses an LR44 and you HAVE TO use an LR44, not a substitute
battery that you can get a Radio Shack.
Mechanically they are not the same.

== 12 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 4:57 pm
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 23:47:58 +0000 (UTC), gregz <zekor@comcast.net>
wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2011 22:19:11 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I wonder if Cramolin/DeOxit would work on the conductive strip?
>>
>> <http://siber-sonic.com/electronics/caig.html>
>> Sorta. The original Cramolin contained about 5% oleic acid, which is
>> great for removing surface oxidation, but is also mildly corrosive to
>> copper. The current version is DeOxit from Caig Labs. It comes in an
>> amazing variety of forms, and is allegedly non-corrosive.
>> <http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/.f>
>> The MSDS data shows the active ingredients as a "trade secret". Oh
>> well.
>
>
>I never have been able to get much visible effect of so called corrosion
>removers. Oleic acid probably being best, but supposedly the cramolin
>chemist also had input on making deoxit. On a short term test I can visibly
>wipe off oxide with an alcohol swipe, being just as effective. Most of the
>removing is mechanical in nature, and any liquid helps.

I tried a paste of cream of tartar from the spice rack in the kitchen on
the battery terminals on a long forgotten remote control that had spewed
its battery guts to make a nasty, green mess of the copper-nickel
strips. Worked amazingly well, better than anything else I've tried for
that particular problem. YMMV, of course.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

== 13 of 13 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 5:28 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 23:47:58 +0000 (UTC), gregz <zekor@comcast.net>
wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> On Sat, 19 Nov 2011 22:19:11 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I wonder if Cramolin/DeOxit would work on the conductive strip?
>>
>> <http://siber-sonic.com/electronics/caig.html>
>> Sorta. The original Cramolin contained about 5% oleic acid, which is
>> great for removing surface oxidation, but is also mildly corrosive to
>> copper. The current version is DeOxit from Caig Labs. It comes in an
>> amazing variety of forms, and is allegedly non-corrosive.
>> <http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/.f>
>> The MSDS data shows the active ingredients as a "trade secret". Oh
>> well.

>I never have been able to get much visible effect of so called corrosion
>removers. Oleic acid probably being best, but supposedly the cramolin
>chemist also had input on making deoxit. On a short term test I can visibly
>wipe off oxide with an alcohol swipe, being just as effective. Most of the
>removing is mechanical in nature, and any liquid helps.

The oleic acid is only about 5% of the contact cleaner. Over a period
of time, it will help remove any oxide deposits. However, at such a
low concentration, it should not be expected to dissolve a substantial
oxide accumulation. Basically, any detergent will do as well if you
can live with the residue.

More on Cramolin:
<http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/caigcram.htm>
<http://siber-sonic.com/electronics/caig.html>

Cleaning brass clocks. Note the section on oleic acid.
<http://www.abbeyclock.com/brass2.html>
The oleic acid therefore has two functions: to remove
the oxide layer from the metals and to act as a soap
to remove the dirt and oils. The cleaning solution
has about 90% ammonia solution with about 5% oleic
acid and 5% acetone added, thereby leaving plenty
of excess ammonia molecules to keep the solution
alkaline.
The acetone is to accelerate evaporation. Oleic acid also has the
advantage of being common, cheap, and non-toxic. It's a by product of
corn and veggie oil production.

<http://www.dialcover.com/components.html>
Scroll down to "Cease and Desist" contact cleaner. Much the same as
my home made formula except I won't use acetone because it eats
plastic. Ordinary isopropyl alcohol is safer.

Homebrew cleaners and protectors:
<http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/cleaner.htm>
The comments on the effects of silicones plus salt in WD40 are
interesting.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Editing a pdf file ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:12 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
>definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
>just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
>and select an area then copy and paste it ?

Free online PDF editor:
<http://www.pdfescape.com>
Free, but limited to 10MB files and 100 pages. There's also a problem
with security as you have to upload the document to their web site in
order for the editor to work online.

PDFedit:
<http://pdfedit.cz/en/>
Free, not simple, but should do whatever you might need:
<http://pdfedit.cz/en/screenshots.html>

The way I usually do it is to import the PDF document into MS Word
(Office 2003), make the necessary changes, and save the document as a
PDF using CutePDF.
<http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/convert-documents-between-pdf-and-word-HA001168333.aspx>
<http://www.cutepdf.com>
<http://convertpdftoword.net>
This usually reformats the document, but that's fine as I now have
more control over formatting in MS Word than I would in most PDF
editor. It's also easier to modify graphics (i.e. schematics and
diagrams) in an external editor (GIMP) than inside a PDF editor.

If you use LibreOffice (spinoff from Open Office), there is an
extension to Writer (pdfimport) that will import the PDF. However,
it's not a real editor as it imports the PDF into the Draw drawing
program, and not into Writer. You can edit a few lines here and
there, but that's about it. Export as PDF is also built in for saving
the results.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:05 am
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
>definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
>just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
>and select an area then copy and paste it ?

Might try the free PDF-XChange reader from Tracker Software
<http://www.tracker-software.com/pdf-xchange-products-comparison-chart>

I don't use the free one, myself (been using their "Pro" version for
years) but it may have the ability to overlay existing content with a
rectangle, which can match the page's background color, and then add
comments over top of that, if desired. Then "print" the individual pages
out to PDF format.

Also try the free Foxit reader. I believe that it also has commenting
tools. http://www.foxitsoftware.com/

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:30 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>I used to have a fully registered version of Acrobat, and I'm sure that
>allowed you to do it, but I am no longer able to use it, because when I
>upgraded my OS to Win 7, it was no longer compatible, and there was no route
>within Adobe, to upgrade an existing installation.

£228 including VAT for an upgrade from Acrobat 8 and below:
<http://www.adobe.com/uk/products/acrobat.html>

What version of Acrobat?
Acrobat Standard or Pro?
32 or 64 bit Windoze 7?

Looks like Acrobat 9 and later are compatible with Windoze 7.
<http://www.microsoft.com/windows/compatibility/Windows-7/en-us/Search.aspx?l=en&type=Software&s=acrobat>

I have Acrobat Pro 6 mostly running on Windoze 7 at a customers. I
had to use "run in compatibility mode" to make it work:
Make sure you are installing the program as an administrator.
Right click on the setup file and select properties.
Now click on compatibility tab.
Under compatibility tab, check "Run this program in compatibility
mode".
From the drop down menu select Windows XP.
Run the install.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:35 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Rich Webb" <bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote in message
news:nacic7dlejhq4mhtd4hfvmq4ufnfahi7tr@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
>>definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
>>just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
>>and select an area then copy and paste it ?
>
> Might try the free PDF-XChange reader from Tracker Software
> <http://www.tracker-software.com/pdf-xchange-products-comparison-chart>
>
> I don't use the free one, myself (been using their "Pro" version for
> years) but it may have the ability to overlay existing content with a
> rectangle, which can match the page's background color, and then add
> comments over top of that, if desired. Then "print" the individual pages
> out to PDF format.
>
> Also try the free Foxit reader. I believe that it also has commenting
> tools. http://www.foxitsoftware.com/
>
> --
> Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

Hi Rich. I have the 'free' version of the Pro PDF-XChange reader, but have
not found anywhere in that one, that allows me to do a simple edit. I also
downloaded Foxit that I was sure would have the feature, but again, not as
far as I can see. It will do everything including scratching your arse for
you, but define - select - cut ? Nope ... :-|

Arfa

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:38 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:jab9n7$di4$1@dont-email.me...
> What you probably need is a program that can convert the document to
> "plain
> form". You can edit it, then reconvert to PDF.
>
> Type "pdf converter" in Google. There's a lot of free PDF converters out
> there.
>
> If necessary, you can send the edited material to me, and I'll do a PDF
> conversion. (Thanks for the warning about W7.)
>
>

I really did not want to have to mess around converting to other formats and
importing and exporting to other progs etc. There will be quite a lot of
iterations to achieve what I want, if I go the whole hog and add snipped
graphics from elsewhere in the document. There is a lot of good work to come
from these people, and it is worth spending some time to make the
documentation more 'service friendly', but there is a limit to the amount of
time I want to spend doing this ... Thanks for the offer of conversion help.

Arfa

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 9:40 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:5ubic7p3jmfne4iksavecj2i0hfo8qbl28@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
>>definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
>>just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
>>and select an area then copy and paste it ?
>
> Free online PDF editor:
> <http://www.pdfescape.com>
> Free, but limited to 10MB files and 100 pages. There's also a problem
> with security as you have to upload the document to their web site in
> order for the editor to work online.
>
> PDFedit:
> <http://pdfedit.cz/en/>
> Free, not simple, but should do whatever you might need:
> <http://pdfedit.cz/en/screenshots.html>
>
> The way I usually do it is to import the PDF document into MS Word
> (Office 2003), make the necessary changes, and save the document as a
> PDF using CutePDF.
> <http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/word-help/convert-documents-between-pdf-and-word-HA001168333.aspx>
> <http://www.cutepdf.com>
> <http://convertpdftoword.net>
> This usually reformats the document, but that's fine as I now have
> more control over formatting in MS Word than I would in most PDF
> editor. It's also easier to modify graphics (i.e. schematics and
> diagrams) in an external editor (GIMP) than inside a PDF editor.
>
> If you use LibreOffice (spinoff from Open Office), there is an
> extension to Writer (pdfimport) that will import the PDF. However,
> it's not a real editor as it imports the PDF into the Draw drawing
> program, and not into Writer. You can edit a few lines here and
> there, but that's about it. Export as PDF is also built in for saving
> the results.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann

Thanks Jeff. I'll look into it.

Arfa

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 10:16 am
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 17:35:11 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>
>
>"Rich Webb" <bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote in message
>news:nacic7dlejhq4mhtd4hfvmq4ufnfahi7tr@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:02:02 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
>> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>>>So, does anyone know of a SIMPLE piece of free software, that will
>>>definitely allow me to work on this document 'in situ' and preferably by
>>>just being able to define and select an area and then erase it, or define
>>>and select an area then copy and paste it ?
>>
>> Might try the free PDF-XChange reader from Tracker Software
>> <http://www.tracker-software.com/pdf-xchange-products-comparison-chart>
>>
>> I don't use the free one, myself (been using their "Pro" version for
>> years) but it may have the ability to overlay existing content with a
>> rectangle, which can match the page's background color, and then add
>> comments over top of that, if desired. Then "print" the individual pages
>> out to PDF format.
>>
>> Also try the free Foxit reader. I believe that it also has commenting
>> tools. http://www.foxitsoftware.com/
>>
>> --
>> Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
>
>Hi Rich. I have the 'free' version of the Pro PDF-XChange reader, but have
>not found anywhere in that one, that allows me to do a simple edit. I also
>downloaded Foxit that I was sure would have the feature, but again, not as
>far as I can see. It will do everything including scratching your arse for
>you, but define - select - cut ? Nope ... :-|

You don't actually edit the existing text so much as stick a comment box
over it so that the area to be "erased" is still there (under the box)
but no longer visible. Print that page to a new PDF and voilà!

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:08 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 09:12:22 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>PDFedit:
><http://pdfedit.cz/en/>

Sorry, bad URL. Try:
<http://pdfedit.cz/en/index.html>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 1:32 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson

En el artículo <8w9yq.5618$NG1.5173@newsfe11.ams2>, Arfa Daily
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> escribió:

>I used to have a fully registered version of Acrobat, and I'm sure that
>allowed you to do it, but I am no longer able to use it, because when I
>upgraded my OS to Win 7, it was no longer compatible, and there was no route
>within Adobe, to upgrade an existing installation.

So run your existing version of Acrobat on an XP virtual machine within
Win7. It's called XP Compatability Mode or something like that.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Promote your Business with Direct Marketing.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ac8922a39e639941?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 12:24 pm
From: Adil Siddiqui

ISOFT Corporation provide you Email and SMS marketing for your
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== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 1:05 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/20/2011 2:24 PM, Adil Siddiqui wrote:
> ISOFT

Fuck you and the horse you rode in on.

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 20 2011 2:12 pm
From: Nelson

On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:05:09 -0500, Jeffrey Angus wrote
(in article <jabq24$s84$1@dont-email.me>):

> On 11/20/2011 2:24 PM, Adil Siddiqui wrote:
>> ISOFT
>
> Fuck you and the horse you rode in on.

Now, now. That's no way to welcome Adil to the group.

--
Nelson

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