sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Akai AD-6300 cassette deck spares - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/af166d967be0e683?hl=en
* Simple tone control? - 9 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eb3fafaa60fb8246?hl=en
* hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de14f30159a3e4ad?hl=en
* Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper - 11 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
* A basic question about electric heaters - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0af41d850cac4033?hl=en
* Editing a pdf file ... - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Akai AD-6300 cassette deck spares
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/af166d967be0e683?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 3:26 pm
From: Adrian C

On 21/11/2011 22:55, Franc Zabkar wrote:
> I'm about to throw away an Akai AD-6300 cassette deck. If anyone needs
> spares, let me know soon.
>
> Here is a photo (not mine):
> http://d.imagehost.org/0885/DSC04693.jpg
>

Made the hairs on the back off my neck stand up. That was our first
cassette deck around 1976.

In later years I was mean to it. Left it unloved in an old damp shed at
the bottom of the garden where it caught rust and died.

--
Adrian C

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:34 pm
From: Trevor Wilson

On 11/22/2011 9:55 AM, Franc Zabkar wrote:
> I'm about to throw away an Akai AD-6300 cassette deck. If anyone needs
> spares, let me know soon.
>
> Here is a photo (not mine):
> http://d.imagehost.org/0885/DSC04693.jpg
>
> - Franc Zabkar

**That would be an AIWA, Franc. And, sadly, nothing of any real value in
there. The later, more upmarket models were more interesting, with
meters that have two complete movements in the same housing. That was
about all you could be bothered salvaging.

Nonetheless, thanks for thinking of us.

PS: Kinda reminds me of a situation about 10 years ago, when a Proton CD
player landed on the bench. The only fault was the display. Two months
earlier, I had thrown out the same model machine, due to a faulty and
uneconomical to replace, laser mech. The display was fine. If only I'd
kept it for spares....

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple tone control?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/eb3fafaa60fb8246?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 3:50 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker = Fuckwit Jerkoff "

>
> This looks a lot like the kind of tone controls mass-market
> consumer-electronics equipment has been using for the past 60 years.

** So totally proven to be the RIGHT kind for domestic audio.

> I don't know /exactly/ what your plans are, but the 1kHz corner frequency
> is
> about the worst possible if you're trying to correct errors in the
> speakers
> you're designing.

** Tone control are mostly used to alter the frequency balance of the
program material.

That is why they have knobs on the front panel......

> Unless you want a "tone control" that produces shrill treble and boomy
> bass,
> you need to move the treble corner up, and the bass down.

** The type of circuit shown has variable bass corner frequency and variable
slope treble.

> Furthermore, it would make sense to design the speakers first, and see
> what
> sort of correction they need.

** False assumption that they need any or that it is the main issue.

> so the best tone
> control would be one that supplies small amounts of boost and cut at the
> frequency extremes.

** Shame about deficiencies in the program itself.

> Unless you're looking for lots of boom and sizzle.

** Or have program lacking in both lows and highs - like many u-tube vids.

> There are plenty of op-amps with a wider voltage range -- the 5534 and
> TL-074 come to mind, but these are rather old designs.

** Both those are wrong for the job, the OP need a dual op-amp - so an
NE5532 or a TL072.

Both these are still the most widely used audio op-amps in the world.

> I'm sure someone will
> be able to recommend something newer.

** Only an audiophool wanker would.

And look who did.

.... Phil

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:09 pm
From: NT

On Nov 21, 10:36 pm, DaveC <inva...@invalid.net> wrote:
> > It would really help to explain what you mean by that. 6" drivers in
> > wood cabs plus a 12" sub? Or 2.5" pc speakers plus a 4" sub? Very
> > different animals.
>
> <http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-
> US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM>

nothing there

> The video is pure marketing.
>
> I don't have these speakers, but I do have the original SoundSticks I which
> are USB input devices (no analog input). I've converted them to analog input.
>
> Looking for an op-amp-based filter circuit. Anybody have a favorite you can
> link to? Or put up an ASCII or Spice diagram?
>
> Thanks.

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:04 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Phil, learn something about audio.

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:14 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker = LYING PIG "

> Phil, learn something about audio.

** ROTFL !!

What an absurd irony.

... Phil

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 9:05 pm
From: DaveC

http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-
US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM

> nothing there

Yes there is. Maybe you have to copy & paste the URL, but it is valid.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 9:31 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"DaveC"

http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM

>> nothing there
>
> Yes there is. Maybe you have to copy & paste the URL, but it is valid.

** The link leads to a home page and nothing else.

... Phil

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 9:47 pm
From: UnsteadyKen

NT wrote...

> > <http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-
> > US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM>
>
> nothing there
Nothing here either.

I think the HK site redirects if it doesn't think you are in the US.

UK version here
http://uk.harmankardon.com/harman-kardon-product-detail-uk/soundsticks-
iii.html

Recommended by the News Of the World:-)

--
Ken O'Meara
http://www.btinternet.com/~unsteadyken/

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 10:02 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 11/21/2011 11:47 PM, UnsteadyKen wrote:
>
> NT wrote...
>
>>> <http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-
>>> US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM>
>>
>> nothing there
> Nothing here either.
>
> I think the HK site redirects if it doesn't think you are in the US.
>
> UK version here
> http://uk.harmankardon.com/harman-kardon-product-detail-uk/soundsticks-
> iii.html
>
> Recommended by the News Of the World:-)
>

You're links are broken/segmented.
<http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM>
Does work...

"Praised for its stunning design, the harman kardon® SoundSticks® II
speakers and subwoofer system became a milestone in harman kardon
history when it became part of the permanent collection at New York
City's Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Improving on its famous sibling's
pop-culture appeal, the SoundSticks III system is all that and much
more. As a three-piece, 2.1-channel multimedia sound system, SoundSticks
III brings a new level of excitement to music, games and movies to your
home – with its exceptional sound clarity, enhanced color scheme and
bare minimum of wiring. Beyond its eye-catching appeal, SoundSticks III
continues to be incredibly capable – with 40 watts of dazzling
amplification, a down-firing powered subwoofer, eight full-range
transducers and compatibility with all sorts of multimedia devices. As
the sublime sequel to a prized performer, SoundSticks III is performance
art at its finest."

Only $169

Jeff-1.0

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 10:07 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeffrey Angus"

> You're links are broken/segmented.
> <http://www.harmankardon.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=SOUNDSTICKS3AM>
> Does work...

** Not from outside the USA it don't.

And the UK one is the same.

How boring of them.

... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de14f30159a3e4ad?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 4:19 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

saranya saran <saranyamathaiyan@gmail.com> wrote in news:3286d677-661a-
4cf7-bc8b-ac4ae1fb7385@w29g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

> Hi friends see this webpage

please vanish under your bridge, troll.....

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repaired Harbor Freight digital caliper
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8587e526bcdbeaf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 4:32 pm
From: "P E Schoen"

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
news:aa0kc750e2tsad3028cqpm25aer8aus1mn@4ax.com...

> Many 99c stores sell a flatpack of 5-10 standard 357 batteries
> for a dollar.

I'm not sure I'd trust them in something any more expensive than a
flashlight. I have seen them corrode and leak. And the only thing the 99
cent store might be willing to do is give you another pack or refund your
dollar.

> So I use 2 batteries a year. Or even 3. Im still way ahead of the
> curve when SR44s are $3 each

I just purchased four genuine SR44s from an eBay store, for $3, including
first class mail shipping. The same company also has larger packs for quite
a bit less.
http://stores.ebay.com/RL-batterydepot?_trksid=p4340.l2563

I also measured the current draw on my calipers, and it's about 12.5 uA
either on or off. It seems to spike a bit when turned on. (So do I :)

They are specified at about 175 mAhr, according to http://www.sr44.com/, so
lifetime should be about 14000 hrs or 1.5 years, but the spec is for a low
voltage of 1.3V, which is probably below the limit of the electronics in the
caliper, at least for the low battery indicator.

Here is a handy list of the various sizes with different chemistry and their
mA-hr capacities: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes

Paul
www.pstech-inc.com

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 4:41 pm
From: amdx

Harbor Freight Has the 6" dial Caliper on sale 11/24

http://www.harborfreight.com/preview-thanksgiving.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4711a&utm_source=1003

Mikek

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 4:49 pm
From: Jamie

amdx wrote:
> Harbor Freight Has the 6" dial Caliper on sale 11/24
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/preview-thanksgiving.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4711a&utm_source=1003
>
>
> Mikek
Nice, I like the metal cutting saw they have there just off to the right..

Think I'll do a stop in for that.

Jamie

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:22 pm
From: amdx

On 11/21/2011 6:49 PM, Jamie wrote:
> amdx wrote:
>> Harbor Freight Has the 6" dial Caliper on sale 11/24
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/preview-thanksgiving.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=4711a&utm_source=1003
>>
>>
>> Mikek
> Nice, I like the metal cutting saw they have there just off to the right..
>
> Think I'll do a stop in for that.
>
> Jamie

Do note, it is pneumatic.
Fine if your setup for it.
Mikek

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:41 pm
From: "DoN. Nichols"

On 2011-11-21, Martin Riddle <martin_rid@verizon.net> wrote:
>
><dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:07d0ac35-1cf3-4ed1-ba85-cd32f2f6ea0b@p2g2000vbj.googlegroups.com...
>> On Nov 20, 8:45 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>>> On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:47:25 -0800 (PST), "Ron D." wrote:
>>
>>> >I have a cheap Caliper too and it recently went flakey.

[ ... ]

>>> same size. Where you can have problems is that the SR44/SR1154
>>> silver
>>> oxide cells come in the same package. They have about 50% more
>>> capacity and a much flatter discharge curve. Some of the cheapo
>>> calipers crap out below about 1.4V. The alkaline battery has plenty
>>> of capacity left at 1.4V, but the caliper doesn't want to run. If
>>> your caliper cames with a silver-oxide cell, it should probably use
>>> silver oxide batteries. If it came with alkaline and has a short
>>> battery life, it might be worthwhile trying silver-oxide. If you're
>>> ambitious, it might be useful to run the caliper off a bench power
>>> supply and check how low a voltage will work.
>>
>> I just measured a Harbor Freight (Chinese) 8-incher.
>>
>> Drain: 13.5uA (off), 14.5uA (on)
>> Battery low threshold (blinking display): 1.37V
>> Lowest operating voltage: 1.01V
>>
>> So, it's clearly made for silver-oxide cells. The battery low
>> threshold is set appropriately for a silver oxide cell (e.g. SR-44).
>>
>> It's a lousy threshold for using alkalines--they're barely broken in
>> at that voltage.
>>
>> 14.5uA means a year from a silver oxide cell--that's not horrible.

[ ... ]

> Why bother including an on off switch?

It is an off switch to turn the *display* (only) back on. They
sometimes make it also turn the display back off to make people feel
better. :-)

The auto-turn-off time of the display is usually good enough.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:08 pm
From: "DoN. Nichols"

On 2011-11-21, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com <dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Nov 20, 9:55 pm, "Martin Riddle" <martin_...@verizon.net> wrote:
>> <dagmargoodb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:07d0ac35-1cf3-4ed1-ba85-cd32f2f6ea0b@p2g2000vbj.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>

>> > I just measured a Harbor Freight (Chinese) 8-incher.
>>
>> > Drain: 13.5uA (off), 14.5uA (on)
>> > Battery low threshold (blinking display): 1.37V
>> > Lowest operating voltage: 1.01V

[ ... ]

>> Why bother including an on off switch?
>
> It's really not worth it for 1uA.
>
> If I designed these, I'd shoot for 2uA active draw, like the
> Mitutoyos, and set the battery low threshold at 1.1V (for alkalines).
> The battery consumption is the biggest fault with these. Apart from
> that, they're impressive.
>
> I sometimes think about wiring up a "AAA" or solar cell and just
> forgetting it, but for $0.50 a year it's not worth the trouble.

Actually -- there *are* some "solar powered" ones -- by Mitutoyo
IIRC. They would probably be excellent used daily in a well-illuminated
shop. In my shop, often dark for days at a time, until a project lures
me there, the replaceable batteries are a better choice.

I did recently get an auto-darkening welding hood from Harbor
Freight which is solar powered, and based on what I have read about them
dying if not used regularly, I've put mine on a folding workstool facing
out the window so it sees daylight to maintain the charge. I'll proably
eventually have to perform surgery and replace the rechargeable cells in
there. There is a temptation to provide a connection for an AC-powered
trickle charger so I can store it more conveniently. What would be
particularly nice would be an induction coupled charger like those for
electric toothbrushes. Just put it on a stand and expect it to be fully
charged when I come back.

If the charge is good enough to work on the first strike, it
should work fine for the rest of the day, because it will be getting a
charge boost from the arc -- close enough to vigorous sunlight. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:15 pm
From: "DoN. Nichols"

On 2011-11-22, P E Schoen <paul@pstech-inc.com> wrote:
> "Gunner Asch" wrote in message
> news:aa0kc750e2tsad3028cqpm25aer8aus1mn@4ax.com...
>
>> Many 99c stores sell a flatpack of 5-10 standard 357 batteries
>> for a dollar.
>
> I'm not sure I'd trust them in something any more expensive than a
> flashlight.

Well ... I've paid more for *some* flashlights (typically
multi-LED ones) than for *some* digital calipers (import from a
hamfest), so it is a toss-up there. :-)

> I have seen them corrode and leak. And the only thing the 99
> cent store might be willing to do is give you another pack or refund your
> dollar.

If you are going to leave the calipers for more than a week,
pull the cell(s) and store them separately -- perhaps in a small zip-loc
baggie, so they don't damage anything else when leaking.

FWIW I've not seen the Silver Oxide ("SR" prefix) ones leak in anything
in which I have used them.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:32 pm
From: dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com

On Nov 21, 9:08 pm, "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnichol...@d-and-d.com> wrote:
> On 2011-11-21, dagmargoodb...@yahoo.com <dagmargoodb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > On Nov 20, 9:55 pm, "Martin Riddle" <martin_...@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> <dagmargoodb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> >>news:07d0ac35-1cf3-4ed1-ba85-cd32f2f6ea0b@p2g2000vbj.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> > I just measured a Harbor Freight (Chinese) 8-incher.
>
> >> > Drain: 13.5uA (off), 14.5uA (on)
> >> > Battery low threshold (blinking display): 1.37V
> >> > Lowest operating voltage: 1.01V
>
>         [ ... ]
>
> >> Why bother including an on off switch?
>
> > It's really not worth it for 1uA.
>
> > If I designed these, I'd shoot for 2uA active draw, like the
> > Mitutoyos, and set the battery low threshold at 1.1V (for alkalines).
> > The battery consumption is the biggest fault with these.  Apart from
> > that, they're impressive.
>
> > I sometimes think about wiring up a "AAA" or solar cell and just
> > forgetting it, but for $0.50 a year it's not worth the trouble.
>
>         Actually -- there *are* some "solar powered" ones -- by Mitutoyo
> IIRC.  They would probably be excellent used daily in a well-illuminated
> shop.

I saw a solar-powered Mitutoyo at a flea market and was intrigued, but
resisted. Something about having a glass window on a machine tool
close to all that hard steel just didn't sit well--it brought up
memories of scratched and broken watch crystals.

OTOH, I paid $10 for most of my HF calipers. Those you can take
chances with. Using the 8x25mm solar panel from a $1 calculator, a
super capacitor for storage, and an LED as a regulator diode was my
notion. $2 in parts, $500 labor ;-).

I fitted one to the lathe carriage--best thing I ever did.
Removable. I fitted another to the tailstock ram. With it you can
bore to 0.002" depth every time without even trying. Magic.

>  In my shop, often dark for days at a time, until a project lures
> me there, the replaceable batteries are a better choice.
>
>         I did recently get an auto-darkening welding hood from Harbor
> Freight which is solar powered, and based on what I have read about them
> dying if not used regularly, I've put mine on a folding workstool facing
> out the window so it sees daylight to maintain the charge.  I'll proably
> eventually have to perform surgery and replace the rechargeable cells in
> there.  There is a temptation to provide a connection for an AC-powered
> trickle charger so I can store it more conveniently.  What would be
> particularly nice would be an induction coupled charger like those for
> electric toothbrushes.  Just put it on a stand and expect it to be fully
> charged when I come back.
>
>         If the charge is good enough to work on the first strike, it
> should work fine for the rest of the day, because it will be getting a
> charge boost from the arc -- close enough to vigorous sunlight. :-)

Sounds like a LiIon cell. If so, those can't be allowed to go dead,
as you've surmised.

--
Cheers,
James Arthur

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:34 pm
From: "P E Schoen"

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
news:slrnjclve8.op3.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...

> On 2011-11-21, Martin Riddle <martin_rid@verizon.net> wrote:

>> Why bother including an on off switch?

> It is an off switch to turn the *display* (only) back on. They
> sometimes make it also turn the display back off to make
> people feel better. :-)

> The auto-turn-off time of the display is usually good enough.

Still, there's no benefit to turning off the display, in this case. Might
just as well have it display "OFF".

I bought a high-end headlamp from Coleman a few years ago
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/ColemanCom/detail.asp?CategoryID=1116&product_id=2000000265#
and every time I went to use it the batteries (4 AA) were dead. I measured
the current draw when turned off, and it was something like 300 uA, which
should have provided 8000 hours (almost one year) for the 2500 mA-hr
batteries. But I was getting only a few weeks before finding them exhausted.
Maybe the current increased as the battery voltage dropped. I usually used
rechargeable NiMH and they might have been old and tired. But, still, there
is no reason for 300 uA standby current on a flashlight. Even if it had a
microcontroller, a typical PIC18F2420 draws only 11 uA while running, and
only 100 nanoamps in sleep mode! So, I just pop out one of the batteries
while I'm not using it. There's no easy place to install a switch.

Paul
www.muttleydog.com

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 6:55 pm
From: "P E Schoen"

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
news:slrnjcm1ee.op3.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...

> Well ... I've paid more for *some* flashlights (typically
> multi-LED ones) than for *some* digital calipers (import
> from a hamfest), so it is a toss-up there. :-)

Yes, the Coleman headlamp I mentioned elsewhere lists for $50, and I paid
probably $20 on clearance, so I agree, in that case. But most flashlights
with coin cells are pretty much disposable.

> If you are going to leave the calipers for more than a week,
> pull the cell(s) and store them separately -- perhaps in a small
> zip-loc baggie, so they don't damage anything else when leaking.

That's what I am going to do. There is a cutout in the foam of the caliper
case for a spare. I also put the other three cells in their original
packaging in there. I plan to use the calipers more now that I can depend on
them (and know how to fix them). Usually I don't do much precision
machining, and I have a cheap plastic dial caliper that is good to about
0.01" and is immune to humidity and most abuse.

> FWIW I've not seen the Silver Oxide ("SR" prefix) ones leak in
> anything in which I have used them.

I think the original cell in the HF caliper was actually alkaline, and
fortunately I had removed it (but kept in the case) when I had tried to fix
them a few years ago with no joy. When I opened it recently, the cell was
rusty and there was some liquid that had oozed out. I've also had some NiMH
AA cells that leaked. But probably the silver cells are better made and the
chemicals may be less aggressive. Now that I've found an on-line source with
good pricing I think I'll stick with them, although it's tempting to get the
Chinese copies for 10 cents each.

Paul

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 7:21 pm
From: dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com

On Nov 21, 9:34 pm, "P E Schoen" <p...@pstech-inc.com> wrote:
> "DoN. Nichols"  wrote in message
>
> news:slrnjclve8.op3.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>
> > On 2011-11-21, Martin Riddle <martin_...@verizon.net> wrote:
> >> Why bother including an on off switch?
> > It is an off switch to turn the *display* (only) back on.  They
> > sometimes make it also turn the display back off to make
> > people feel better. :-)
> > The auto-turn-off time of the display is usually good enough.
>
> Still, there's no benefit to turning off the display, in this case. Might
> just as well have it display "OFF".
>
> I bought a high-end headlamp from Coleman a few years agohttp://www.coleman.com/coleman/ColemanCom/detail.asp?CategoryID=1116&...
> and every time I went to use it the batteries (4 AA) were dead. I measured
> the current draw when turned off, and it was something like 300 uA, which
> should have provided 8000 hours (almost one year) for the 2500 mA-hr
> batteries. But I was getting only a few weeks before finding them exhausted.
> Maybe the current increased as the battery voltage dropped. I usually used
> rechargeable NiMH and they might have been old and tired. But, still, there
> is no reason for 300 uA standby current on a flashlight. Even if it had a
> microcontroller, a typical PIC18F2420 draws only 11 uA while running, and
> only 100 nanoamps in sleep mode! So, I just pop out one of the batteries
> while I'm not using it. There's no easy place to install a switch.
>
> Paulwww.muttleydog.com

I measured some ordinary NiMH cells' self-discharge, 1,600mAH, @ 1.6mA
IIRC. The high-capacity rechargeables are wickedly worse. I've got
one set that won't hold a charge much over two weeks, no kidding,
even brand-new. Self-discharge current on the order of 5-7mA.

There are low-self-discharge NiMH that hold a charge much longer,
sometimes up to a year. Highly recommended. Ray-O-Vac Hybrids, Sanyo
Eneloop, and Duracell has some too.

--
Cheers,
James Arthur

==============================================================================
TOPIC: A basic question about electric heaters
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0af41d850cac4033?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:29 pm
From: gregz

<PlainBill@yawhoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:10:12 -0800 (PST), spamtrap1888
> <spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On Nov 21, 7:55 am, e...@whidbey.com wrote:
>>> My neighbor was telling me that his oil filled radiator type space
>>> heater is more efficient than the kind with a fan and heating coils. I
>>> told him that there is no difference, that all the electricity
>>> consumed by the heater is converted to heat in the room. Even the
>>> sound made by the fan vibrates the air which heats it up a little. So
>>> if both were operated in a perfectly insulated room and consumed the
>>> same amount of electricity the rooms would heat up the same amount.
>>> Now I'm wondering about real world situations. Some frequencies of
>>> light pass through walls, some through windows, some both, and some
>>> neither. So I suppose the best heater is one that glows in a frequency
>>> range that is completely absorbed by objects (including people) in the
>>> room and reflected by the walls and windows. Are my asumptions
>>> correct? I hope so. Otherwise I'll need to call my neighbor so he can
>>> serve me a little crow.
>>> Eric
>>
>> There are two kinds of electric space heaters, convection and radiant.
>> Convection heaters (attempt to) heat the entire room, radiant heaters
>> heat objects, including you. The oil filled radiator is a convection
>> heater, as are the heating coil plus fan heaters.
>>
>> Comparing convection heaters to convection heaters, there is no
>> difference in efficiency, 100% of the electrical energy does turn into
>> heat. The Department of Energy prefers the oil filled units because
>> their thermal mass makes them a more constant heat source. Their
>> heating elements cycle less, for what it's worth.
>>
>> But, radiant heaters should have more apparent efficiency in that they
>> require less energy to heat just you instead of the entire room plus
>> you in it.
>>
>> http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/space_heating_cooling/index.cfm/mytopic=12600
>
> Correct, if you ignore one minor detail. Since a radiant heater warms
> you, rather than the air, you will always feel colder on the side away
> from the heater.
>
> PlainBill

I don't know what the efficiency of radiant conversion is, but radiant
heaters give out plenty of heated air also. Some also have fans.

Greg

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Editing a pdf file ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7a871e294322579?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 21 2011 5:47 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Mike Tomlinson" <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote in message
news:3B$uksDdHXyOFwFL@jasper.org.uk...
> En el artículo <8w9yq.5618$NG1.5173@newsfe11.ams2>, Arfa Daily
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> escribió:
>
>>I used to have a fully registered version of Acrobat, and I'm sure that
>>allowed you to do it, but I am no longer able to use it, because when I
>>upgraded my OS to Win 7, it was no longer compatible, and there was no
>>route
>>within Adobe, to upgrade an existing installation.
>
> So run your existing version of Acrobat on an XP virtual machine within
> Win7. It's called XP Compatability Mode or something like that.
>
> --
> (\_/)
> (='.'=)
> (")_(")

I actually don't have it any more. It was a fully registered version on a
machine that I bought from an outfit that I did work for, when they packed
it all in. The machine was a properly registered XP Pro one, and all updates
to the Acrobat and OS were done on a regular basis. Then the machine was
'upgraded' to Win 7, and when I came to reinstall the Acrobat, it wouldn't
have any of it. I'm sure I tried to install it under a compatibility mode as
well, but it was having none of it. When I went to the Adobe site, expecting
to be able to download some patch-pack, as it was a registered version, I
discovered that there was no route to upgrading - only buying a new version,
as Jeff has said. I didn't use the creation side of things enough to justify
the expense, so I ended up just letting it go, and downloading the free
Reader 9. The original drive that both the built application, and the
original installation files was on, has since failed, and I don't think that
I now have it anywhere else.

I've actually now managed to do the basic thing that I wanted. I ended up
very carefully zooming the image (that was hard to do precisely, as the zoom
bar wanted to 'snap' in 25% increments and didn't allow actual values to be
typed in) until the bits that I didn't want were off the top and bottom of
the screen, and the bit that I did want was centred. I then did a "print"
and then "current view". Finally, I used the "Tile large sheets" option with
the 'composite view' selected, and then used the print zoom to find the
point where it just jumped up to two pages, and left an even border around
the edge.

When it was printed off and joined, I made my notes by hand, with a
draftsman's fine tip pen, which is good enough for this job. Some jobs are
just too difficult, frustrating and time consuming to do on a computer, and
this, I think, is one of them. Whilst cutting and pasting and manipulating
and juggling images onto sheets, and annotating in pretty bubbles with
perfect text, looks all very pretty and professional, the end result that
I've achieved is just as practical from a repair-use point of view, and took
probably a quarter or less of the time, ignoring of course, the time wasted
on trying to find software that would do it ...

Arfa

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en