sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Where to get a simple datasheet? for LMF90 - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d2fec89f2026b8b7?hl=en
* Any PC Hardware Gurus In Here ? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4190ca05fbbb86?hl=en
* Long stem guitar input jack sockets - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d914cb0431dbfa14?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 2 messages,
2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
* r omega logo? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/89843563e63c46eb?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 8:43 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...

> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.

To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a product
that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?





== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:08 am
From: N_Cook


On 23/01/2014 17:54, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:lbqr92$por$1@dont-email.me...
>> On 22/01/2014 18:11, Arfa Daily wrote:
>>> Anyone on here had the misfortune to have work on one of these POS ? If
>>> so, how do you get into it ? It's got me beat. Front grille comes off,
>>> and a number of obvious screws then exposed. On the bottom, below the CD
>>> drive, is a plastic 'plate screwed between the front and rear case
>>> halves. Remove that, and the CD drive comes with it. That can all be
>>> unplugged and removed. That then exposes a PCB, again screwed between
>>> the front and rear halves. Four screws out of that, and the board is
>>> then adrift, but not going anywhere, as it is still apparently fixed to
>>> the case rear half by a screw into the phono connector block, that's
>>> behind a thick plastic stuck-in trim panel. With all that lot out, the
>>> front case-half appears to be largely adrift from the rear, except right
>>> around the middle, where it 'feels' as though there's another screw
>>> lurking, but nothing visible from any angle, front or rear.
>>>
>>> I've even taken the speakers out to make sure that there are no other
>>> screws behind them.
>>>
>>> So I'm stuck now. Anyone know the secret ... ? d:-\
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>> Have you tried low temp hot air over the stuck on trim, to soften glue
>>
>
> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared
> to spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of
> diminishing returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves
> removing glued-on trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that
> I have now reached. If someone knew the product enough to say "You have
> to stand it on one corner and clout the opposite corner with the heel of
> your hand" in much the way that you had to know the 'secret' way to bash
> monitor cabinets, then fair enough, but given that there is absolutely
> no service info out there for the product, and almost certainly no
> spares either, then I'm now drawing a line under it. Tomorrow, it will
> go back to the shop that took it in, unrepaired. I have already spoken
> to them about it, and their response was fair enough ....
>
> Arfa

So nothing learnt then.
My equivalent current situation is an expensive to replace (because of
all the custom-made wiring ) for a 100V distributed PA system and blown
ps, posted below. Flexa rack system, absolutely no useful techy info out
there.
Got some replacement Viper 12A SMPS ICs today, to replace the
malfunctioning one in there. If some other downstream problem after
that,then will at least have found and reported the info discovered so
far. At least that amp has industry standard components , idents not
rubbed off . No custom firmware uC so eminently repairable compared to a
lot of anonymised stuff





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Where to get a simple datasheet? for LMF90
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d2fec89f2026b8b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 8:45 am
From: Phil Hobbs


On 01/27/2014 10:02 AM, RobertMacy wrote:
> This is a simple switched capacitor filter made by National. Would
> somebody send me a copy, or at least provide a URL that HAS it!!! and
> not datasheet or alldata crap! If AppNote available that too please.
>
> I just went through the most frustrating 45 minutes trying to get a
> simple !@#$#@!#$ data sheet! Google search shows 8,000+ pages of either
> alldata, or datasheet, ok so tried going to both, all I got there were
> ads for unrelated chips and ?? couldn't even tell, kept asking me to
> download a pdf viewer!! what?!
>
> So thought I'd go to the source [which I usually do first] went to
> <http://www.national.com> which of course took me to <http://www.ti.com>
> because TI bought out National and TI's website is usually pretty easy
> to navigate so did a search for LMF90 only to come up with nothing found.
>
> I'd like a URL ending in .pdf so I can click on it and select 'download
> the contents of the link', instead of going off to some jave infected
> website that either hangs, delays, my system or wants to give me videos,
> and no where in sight is a place to get a copy of the datasheet. Even
> the 'view' data sheet resulted in nothing happening!! arrrggg!
> ...temporary end of rant.
>
> So, anybody have a copy, or know a 'good' URL?

And there's a real datasheet at
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dlmain/Datasheets-22/DSA-424155.pdf

Since the parasites have taken over the search engine ecosystem,
Datasheetarchive's built-in search works better than using Google to
search DSA.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 10:55 am
From: Michael Black


On Mon, 27 Jan 2014, John Larkin wrote:

> On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 10:18:27 -0500, Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca> wrote:
>
>> On Mon, 27 Jan 2014, RobertMacy wrote:
>>
>>> This is a simple switched capacitor filter made by National. Would somebody
>>> send me a copy, or at least provide a URL that HAS it!!! and not datasheet or
>>> alldata crap! If AppNote available that too please.
>>>
>> Have you got the part number right? National's first generation filter
>> like that had some other prefix (I can't remember what, I'd know the minute I
>> saw it). I'm thinking "MFC" but I don't know why. It didn't start
>> with National's traditional prefix, "LM". Maybe later they used some other
>> prefix, but I'd double check.
>
> National's classic switched-cap filter was the MF10, metal-gate CMOS. There was
> a later poly-gate version, can't remember the part number.
>
Yes, that's what I was remembering.

> Overall, switched-cap filters weren't all that great. OK for some apps, but they
> were really noisy, and aliased anything available, including power supply crud.
>
It's one of those things that were transitory, like charge coupled delay
lines. Fill in a gap, relatively late, that soon could be done by
converting to digital and doing the work there.

Michael

> I once designed a double-conversion superhet FSK modem full of MF10s, for
> Reuters' landline newswire service. Sold a few before PCs and the Internet made
> the classic newswire thing obsolete.
>
>
> --
>
> John Larkin Highland Technology Inc
> www.highlandtechnology.com jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com
>
> Precision electronic instrumentation
>




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:50 am
From: RobertMacy


On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 09:39:12 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highnotlandthistechnologypart.com> wrote:

> On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 11:30:37 -0500, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>>> ...snip....
>> The clock-tunable thing was pretty convenient for some jobs, especially
>> back when tight-tolerance capacitors were expensive.
>>
>
> Yeah, the modem did any channel, and any one of three baud
> rate/bandwidths, with
> just dip switches. The older stuff had plug-in LC filters.
>
>

Actually, I only really needed the DataSheet and any AppNotes. but is ok,
got the data sheet and an AppNote.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any PC Hardware Gurus In Here ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4190ca05fbbb86?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 9:32 am
From: Wayne Chirnside


On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 12:20:10 -0800, jurb6006 wrote:

>>"I see nothing to confirm that ANY of it is good.
> What's the cmos battery voltage?
> How much noise/ripple on every one of the power supplies?
> 12/5/3.3/1.something "
>
> This one, like alot of them now, will run without the battery. In fact
> it did when I first coaxed it into working. However I should check the
> PS. I kind of doubt it is the problem because of the pattern of failure
> and its young age. When I fired it up about a week ago it had been
> sitting for months. When it failed it was only off for a a matter of a
> couple hours. But I should of course find out for sure. I will check it
> before giving it the axe.
>
>>"I've resurrected several machines by replacing bad capacitors"
>
> Believe it or not I hardly see any. A few small ones, but no bunches of
> them, like you would normally see around the processor. The few lytics I
> see are small, and none are bulging. Maybe they went with active filters
> after the regulators ? Knowing ECS, if a transistor and a small lytic is
> cheaper than a bunch of big lytics, they go with it. The only place a
> bunch of lytics could be hiding is under the heatsink/fan assembly. Hmm,
> I guess I should look.
>
>>"could mean bad RAM,
> but it is more likely to be a bad connection in the RAM sockets. Clean
> the RAM contacts with alcohol to eliminate this possibility. "
>
> I suppose it won't hurt me to try cleaning the sockets. I wonder, just
> offhand, can I load slots 2 and 3 instead of 0 and 1 ? The reason I ask
> is that this thing is not that old and there is probably as much a
> chance of a socket being defective as it is dirty. The whole machine is
> pretty clean actually, it could have rolled off the assembly line
> yesterday from the looks of it.
>
>>"Reseat everything, especially the video card if it's not on the planar.
> replace the clock battery with a known good one. "
>
> Video is onboard.
>
> Anyway, I think I am stuck just checking the PS because all the ones I
> have laying around don't have those extra pins on the main connector. Or
> will it run without those ? Or is there a way to just temporarily jump
> something in there ?
>
> Actually there may be ONE PS I could try, I'll have to look. That PS has
> seen alot of use and more than average power drain because it had a
> bunch of harddrives in it. It's down to three right now but at one time
> it had five. Anyway, that one seems to fail to boot sometimes when it
> has sat for a time, which of course is probably filters. However now it
> runs continuously so maybe it would be a good enough test.
>
> Whatever, if it fails the rest of this, I am taking a scrwwdriver to it.
> Anyone want to buy an E5700 and some RAM ?


What sort of RAM?
I've already E7300, E8400




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 10:16 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


>"What sort of RAM?
I've already E7300, E8400 "

I'm pretty sure it's PC3 1333 Mhz. Got 4 - 1 gig sticks.




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 4:50 am
From: John-Del


On Monday, January 27, 2014 1:16:13 PM UTC-5, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >"What sort of RAM?
>
> I've already E7300, E8400 "
>
>
>
> I'm pretty sure it's PC3 1333 Mhz. Got 4 - 1 gig sticks.

If you can borrow another supply, try that. I've seen several power supplies over the years that show proper DC output, but will sag and recover so quickly that it won't be picked up on a DMM. If your meter has a recording function, attach it to each output and set it to display minimum voltage.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Long stem guitar input jack sockets
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d914cb0431dbfa14?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 1:54 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"N_Cook" wrote in message news:lc0g5j$4m8$1@dont-email.me...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JACK-SOCKET-END-MOUNT-1-4-INCH-6-35MM-NEW-CHEAP-/400092374539
Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last
a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.





== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 2:41 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message news:VAAFu.37$QB.8@fx26.am4...



"N_Cook" wrote in message news:lc0g5j$4m8$1@dont-email.me...

These sort of things
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JACK-SOCKET-END-MOUNT-1-4-INCH-6-35MM-NEW-CHEAP-/400092374539
Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
stay that way for many years.





No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.

Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will last
a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.

These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
going to better your reputation.
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp



Gareth.





Oops, I didn't properly read your post.
It seems you are going to bodge the crap one instead of replacing it with a
good one.

Never mind, eh.


Gareth.





== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 4:09 pm
From: dave


On 01/27/2014 02:41 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>
>
> "Gareth Magennis" wrote in message news:VAAFu.37$QB.8@fx26.am4...
>
>
>
> "N_Cook" wrote in message news:lc0g5j$4m8$1@dont-email.me...
>
> These sort of things
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JACK-SOCKET-END-MOUNT-1-4-INCH-6-35MM-NEW-CHEAP-/400092374539
>
> Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
> of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
> in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
> supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
> only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
> axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
> break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
> will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
> Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
> mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
> extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
> stay that way for many years.
>
>
>
>
>
> No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.
>
> Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will
> last
> a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.
>
> These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
> going to better your reputation.
> http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>
>
>
>
> Oops, I didn't properly read your post.
> It seems you are going to bodge the crap one instead of replacing it
> with a good one.
>
> Never mind, eh.
>
>
> Gareth.
>

Here is a nice variety of solutions.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Components:_Jacks.html

good for model numbers if nothing else..




== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:39 am
From: N_Cook


On 27/01/2014 21:54, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>
>
> "N_Cook" wrote in message news:lc0g5j$4m8$1@dont-email.me...
>
> These sort of things
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-JACK-SOCKET-END-MOUNT-1-4-INCH-6-35MM-NEW-CHEAP-/400092374539
>
> Having now got inside one I see why they last no time at all with loads
> of jack insertions/extractions a gig, swapping guitars. No name socket
> in otherwise good name guitar. The contacts metal are 27x2x0.5mm
> supported , reactively sliding only, not postively anchored, at the ends
> only. 600gm of extraction force will pull it out and any marginal off
> axis strain on the plug, via the lead, in the wrong radial sense will
> break contact, so no duck-walking etc. Any like for like replacement
> will of course be the same non-functional state in a year or 2s time.
> Now I've seen inside then any other one I come across , assuming not
> mangled ,just tired, will have the same bodge-mod to bring the
> extraction force up to 3Kg or so , and no reason to believe it won't
> stay that way for many years.
>
>
>
>
>
> No name versions of these are crap, as you have established.
>
> Don't buy anything other than Switchcraft, which are not crap, and will
> last a reasonable length of time before replacement is necessary.
>
> These are less than £3 more than the crap version, - guess which one is
> going to better your reputation.
> http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/panel-jack-stereo-1115-p.asp
>
>
>
> Gareth.

There is more metal making up the escutchion part , but is the internal
construction any different to the no-namers?
I've not found quoted insert/extract forces for any of them. I get the
notion this is the main criteria for guitarists, implying how sloppy the
jack is in the socket.




== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 5:57 am
From: N_Cook


Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small
stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees?
Central barrel turned in the shield contact tag section with just finger
grip turning force required, so breaking contact in use. Large
ballbearing and vice to re-swage that and for good measure a small lip
return on the open end of the tip contact, the 2 tags for T and S , bent
outwards a bit and a stout "O" ring run around all 3 for much improved
tip contact force. Would a replacement Switchcraft one have been any
better these days ? Bad design point there is what used to be
paxolin/tufnal disc spacers is now , presumably more compressible, pcb
type material. Plus I suspect the material that makes the tip contact
these days looses springiness/deforms easier over useage/time than
whatever they used to be made of





== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 10:48 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"N_Cook" wrote in message news:lc8d11$7jr$1@dont-email.me...

Another good name guitar in with a dodgey output socket. This time small
stem open frame Switchcraft. Are you sure Switchcraft is the bees-knees?





I was only referring to the long barrel types.



Cheers,


Gareth.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 2:58 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"boob = bullshit artist "
>>
> Phil Allison wrote:

>>
>>>>
>>>> A "motor start" circuit breaker is what is normally used.
>>>>
>>>> Slow, thermal characteristic at up to 6 times and then a very fast
>>>> magnetic action at about 10 times.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Time delay breakers can be up to 175% of the motor running current in
>>> the
>>> US.
>>
>> ** Blah, blah, blah...
>>
>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit, but
>>> not for overload protection.
>>
>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>
>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>> supply cables.
>>
>
> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
> overload protection for motors.

** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ

Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them between
the AC outlet and the load.

Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".

They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.

Fucking moron.


.... Phil






== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 9:45 am
From: bud--


On 1/27/2014 4:58 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>>>
>> Phil Allison wrote:
>
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> A "motor start" circuit breaker is what is normally used.
>>>>>
>>>>> Slow, thermal characteristic at up to 6 times and then a very fast
>>>>> magnetic action at about 10 times.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> Time delay breakers can be up to 175% of the motor running current in
>>>> the
>>>> US.
>>>
>>> ** Blah, blah, blah...
>>>
>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit, but
>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>
>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>
>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>
>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>> supply cables.
>>>
>>
>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>> overload protection for motors.
>
> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ

Perhaps you could read. US NEC sizes breakers up to 175% of motor run
current. Wire is 115% of motor run current.

>
> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them between
> the AC outlet and the load.

What breaker would you use for overload protection for a motor with a
run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able to withstand motor
starting currents, and suitable for use as motor protection.

>
> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>
> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.

Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.

>
> Fucking moron.

You have such compelling arguments.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 27 2014 5:06 pm
From: Cydrome Leader


Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
>> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
>> >> it is male?
>> >
>> >
>> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
>> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
>> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
>> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
>>
>> It's actually a pretty nice connector. It's hard to break and reliable
>> enough. Anybody miss cutting apart printer cables to run though walls and
>> then having to resolder the DB25 side back on?
>
>
> I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a new
> DB25. :)

That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just saw one
pop up not too long ago.




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 5:54 am
From: dave


On 01/27/2014 05:06 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>>
>>> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
>>>>> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
>>>>> it is male?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
>>>> decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
>>>> across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
>>>> Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
>>>
>>> It's actually a pretty nice connector. It's hard to break and reliable
>>> enough. Anybody miss cutting apart printer cables to run though walls and
>>> then having to resolder the DB25 side back on?
>>
>>
>> I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a new
>> DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just saw one
> pop up not too long ago.
>

I have several. They used to throw them in with a box of pins. Molex
brand I think. I remember when we built our own phone system we had to
find a volunteer with a 25 pair crimper.




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 10:33 am
From: Cydrome Leader


Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> gregz wrote:
>>
>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
>> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
>> >> it is male?
>> >
>> >
>> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
>> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
>> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
>> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
>>
>> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
>> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
>> of work.
>> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
>
>
> Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> floor. :)

I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.

The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
any printer stand back and forth with ease.







==============================================================================
TOPIC: Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:29 am
From: pepebuho


How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.

I added an icemaker to my Whirlpool refrigerator (it was an easy retrofit, everything was pre-setup to add one).

I want to change my refrigerator to a Panasonic inverter model in order to lower my energy bills, but I seems like no Panasonic inverter model has an automatic icemaker. Checking it out, it looks like they do not have the "pre-setup" to add any.

I think I could jerry jig a water valve outside and pass a water line to the inside into the icemaker assuming there is enough space in the freezer to place an icemaker. Nevertheless I wonder if there is anything else I am missing about doing this kind of retrofit.

Thanks

JP





==============================================================================
TOPIC: r omega logo?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/89843563e63c46eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 7:56 am
From: N_Cook


2 characters lower case r immediately followed by Greek omega, no space
,on standard size control potentiometers of about 1998 , logo of Rohm ?
cannot find such a logo on google/images





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 7:56 am
From: Ismo Salonen


I'm repairing owon pds5022 where the power supply is bad. The U3 chip is
burn beyond any real markings. It is 5 pin smd, SOT-25 package.
I've drawn the schema on paper and it looks like pin3 is input ( fed via
resistor), pin2 is ground, pin1 could be feedback. Pins 4&5 are
connected together and act as output, there is also connection to pin1
to connector with small condensator and inductor.
The markings are so small that I cannot read them even with magnifier
glass (I'm getting old:-( ) , need stereomicroscope to read them.
The U3 could have markings 510B but cannot tell if that's correct.
The B can also be some manufacturer logo, code could also be upside down.

I've ruled out a couple smd regulators ( Torek brand ) , any idea what
component could really be ? Owon has not answered to my query.

ismo




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 8:19 am
From: N_Cook


On 28/01/2014 15:56, Ismo Salonen wrote:
> I'm repairing owon pds5022 where the power supply is bad. The U3 chip is
> burn beyond any real markings. It is 5 pin smd, SOT-25 package.
> I've drawn the schema on paper and it looks like pin3 is input ( fed via
> resistor), pin2 is ground, pin1 could be feedback. Pins 4&5 are
> connected together and act as output, there is also connection to pin1
> to connector with small condensator and inductor.
> The markings are so small that I cannot read them even with magnifier
> glass (I'm getting old:-( ) , need stereomicroscope to read them.
> The U3 could have markings 510B but cannot tell if that's correct.
> The B can also be some manufacturer logo, code could also be upside down.
>
> I've ruled out a couple smd regulators ( Torek brand ) , any idea what
> component could really be ? Owon has not answered to my query.
>
> ismo

Owon meant nothing to me so Owon AND oscilloscope in google/images
threw up someone's fairly hi-res pic of inside of another model
http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/owon_hds2062_oscilloscope.html
any similarity in ps section ? worth a try using a device type from that
one, if all else fails
Is Owon a rebadge of some other make? again google/im for more general
storage scopes, may through up another maker name and model, same
appearance though.
A USB microscope is a fairly cheap these days useful addition to a
repairman's toolkit




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 9:40 am
From: Ismo Salonen


The scope can be seen e.g here http://www.saelig.com/product/PSSA002.htm
. Don't know if its is rebranded something but they do have own pages at
http://www.owon.com.cn/main.asp.
Pictures of power supply are at

bottom side ( where burnt U3 is )

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=270DCC15B675D0D0!1765&authkey=!ALioIfHXovVdH70&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg

and component side
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=270DCC15B675D0D0!1766&authkey=!ALFVd29yGlIOqJ4&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg

Hope these help identifying it.

br
ismo





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:29 pm
From: Pat


I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).

Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.

Pat





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:45 pm
From: Jerry Peters


jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>>"passive component Electronics. A component that does not require power
> to operate, e.g., a resistor. Contrast with active. "
>
> Umm, if a resistor is operating witthout power, just what is it doing ?

Nothing? I picked up on that one too, if it's not disipating some
power than there's no current flow through it.





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