sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Active device nonsense - 15 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 2 messages,
2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:45 pm
From: Jerry Peters


jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>>"passive component Electronics. A component that does not require power
> to operate, e.g., a resistor. Contrast with active. "
>
> Umm, if a resistor is operating witthout power, just what is it doing ?

Nothing? I picked up on that one too, if it's not disipating some
power than there's no current flow through it.





== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 12:52 pm
From: Jerry Peters


Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> "Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>>>
>>> "Jerry Peters"
>>>>
>>>>> An active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another.
>>>>
>>>> So a relay is an active device?
>>>
>>>
>>> ** Trying to define a word or term *out of context* is doomed to failure.
>>
>> It's called reductio ad absurdum, it's a rhetorical technique Phil.
>
>
> ** I figured you were being facetious.

I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
be capable of it. It's much like the definition of a word, there can
be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
implications or overtones to a particular word choice.

>
> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>
> Which relays are not.

If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
define what an "electronic" device is.

WHat about a magnetic amplifier?




== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:45 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .

Which relays are not. "

Why, because they have no silicon or PN junction ? then you rule out tubes/valvs. If the exception is made because of a filament and thermionic emission, then what about gas fired tubes/valves like a 0Z4 or whatever ?

Sometimes the process of elimination is useful. What is NOT an activ device ?

Capacitor
Resistor
Inductor
Switch

That would mean then that a relay is not an active electronic device because the two main compnents are not active.

However, in a transistor....

If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.

So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?

All of this, no matter how useless an argument (nobody has any work to do ?), is coming down to the point where a diode is an active device.




== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 2:52 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku


On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.

A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output.

> So does the addition of the second junction in a bipolar transistor make it
> active ? does the addition of a grid in a tube/valve make it active ?

No; you also need a circuit to make it active. The minimum active circuit
you can make with a three-port device is a three-port current source.
Two terminals of the device are placed into a power circuit, and the third
terminal controls the flow of current.

Using a three-port transistor or tube triode device, plus some additional
components, like at least one resistor, we can make a four-port active circuit
based on voltages: something that takes an input voltage on one port, produces
an output on another port, and has a third port where power is supplied, so
that the input isn't driving the output.

The rule of thumb is: if inputs can control the flow of energy from the
outputs, without supplying most of that energy, then the situation is active.

If the output energy is derived from the inputs, then it is passive.

To apply this ide, we have to identify what is an energy source, what are
inputs, and what is the output (and in what form).

Example of an active device: power steering in a car. The input is you, turning
the wheel, which requires little force because of an energy source within the
power steering which actually turns the wheels.

Unpowered steering is passive: all of the energy to move the wheels comes from
you, turning the wheel.

(The rack and pinion gives you a mechanical advantage. We have such a passive
transmission in electricity also, namely the transformer. Though the
transformer adapts impedance and changes voltages and currents, all of the
output power comes from the input, so it is passive.)




== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:50 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"Jerry Peters"
>> Phil Allison
>
>> ** I figured you were being facetious.
>
> I was actually trying to get dave to *think*, but he doesn't seem to
> be capable of it.

** No fooling ?

> It's much like the definition of a word, there can
> be multiple, sometimes even contradictory meanings, and also
> implications or overtones to a particular word choice.
>
>>
>> But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices" .
>>
>> Which relays are not.
>
> If he gets to define what an active or passive device is *I* can
> define what an "electronic" device is.
>
> WHat about a magnetic amplifier?


** Out of context again.

Device = single component here.

"Electronic component " is broad church too, it includes anything electronic
in nature that is intended to be used to create an electronic device.

Active devices do NOT have to be able to amplify signals - that IS what
most of them do but is not the defining issue.

BTW:

I see you are an incorrigible context shifter and a bullshit artist.

Fuck off.


... Phil







== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:52 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



<jurb6006@gmail.com>

> ?"But YOU failed to see the discussion is only about "electronic devices"
> .
>
> Which relays are not. "
>
> Why,


** Read the rest of that post - you over snipping maniac.

Then go drop fucking dead.










== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 5:19 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
way for it to have an input which controls an output. "

So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes are not active devices.

If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element. Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?




== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:46 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku


On 2014-01-29, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
>
> So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes
> are not active devices.

I'm trying to classify them as such, but I am unable to think of the
justification.

> If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode
> with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element.
> Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls
> it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals
> aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?

These devices can be active if we broaden the definition of "input", and
"energy" and so on beyond electronics. I already gave an example of automobile
power steering being active.

In the case of semiconductor diodes, we have photodiodes. (Actually any
silicon diode reacts to light, just isn't necessarily packaged for that use.)
The two ports of a photodiode can be configured to pass current from a power
supply. The light falling on the junction can be regarded as an input: a third
port which modulates the current. This is then "active": some energy delivery
is modulated in proportion to the light, and yet most of the energy is not
derived from that light.

Hall effect sensors and such can be conceived similarly.




== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.

Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.

How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
them work.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC

Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier





== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:03 pm
From: Jerry Peters


Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>
> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output.

Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
been done for years.

PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
current.

--snip--




== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:07 pm
From: Jerry Peters


William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
>
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
> transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
> point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
> same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
>
> How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
> sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
> a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
> them work.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
>
> Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
> the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
>

I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which I would
argue makes it an active device.




== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:15 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku


On 2014-01-29, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.

That is fine, but you have to remember that amplification includes unity gain
(and below).

> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes.

I would say that, as a category, no.

Counterexample:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_logic




== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:37 pm
From: dave


On 01/29/2014 01:03 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>>
>> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
>> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
>
> --snip--
>

Pin diodes don't attenuate. They connect resistors.




== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Jerry Peters" wrote in message news:lcbqi0$ke5$2@dont-email.me...

> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
> I would argue makes it an active device.

So then a light switch is an active device? Hello?

The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.

There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in the
ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active device.
Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
component was an active device.

Case closed.





== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 6:11 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"William Fuckwit Sommerwanker "

>>
>> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
>> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
>> I would argue makes it an active device.
>
> So then a light switch is an active device?


** FFS - it not an ELECTRONIC device.

Do you want food mixers and lawn mowers included too ??


> The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and
> stating whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of
> thought.

** Like YOU do all the fucking time - asshole.


> There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in
> the ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active
> device.

** Crap.


> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
> component was an active device.

** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.

The term " active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!

I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended to be used in
an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk working IN ELECTRONICS
use it and dealer's catalogues reflect the fact too.

And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_component#Classification



.... Phil











==============================================================================
TOPIC: Icemaker retrofit to a Panasonic refrigerator
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/428ec95cd579b500?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:36 pm
From: mroberds@att.net


pepebuho <pepebuho@gmail.com> wrote:
> How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic
> refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.

The main thing is that you need to make at least one hole, and probably
two (water + wires), through the wall of the freezer compartment. As
long as you know exactly where the refrigerant lines and cabinet heaters
(if equipped) are, you can pick a good place for the hole. If you
don't, then it's kind of like finding a stud in a wall - drill a tiny
hole (1/16" or so) through one surface only, poke around with a stiff
piece of wire to make sure nothing is in the way, and if clear, drill
the hole bigger. If this model refrigerator had a factory option for
the icemaker, there may be some holes already there, possibly filled
with a foam plug and taped over.

You may also need to make some small holes in the freezer liner for
mounting screws, or fabricate some kind of stand or shelf to put the
icemaker on. Again, if there was a factory option, these may already
be there.

If you drilled the holes yourself, you'll probably want to seal the
holes you made with food grade silicone sealant. Try not to have any
wire splices inside the freezer; if you do, they get sealed up with
silicone as well.

If the existing circuits use 1/4" push-on terminals, see if you can use
insulated splitters (one female+two male, or vice versa), or insulated
female terminals that also have a male tab on them. Otherwise, cut the
existing wires and put insulated push-ons on them, or solder and tape.
I wouldn't trust wire nuts or those "guillotine" tap-in terminals (with
the blade with slots that pushes over the wire) for this. Make sure
you are tapping into the 120 V line from the wall, and not something
that is switched by the thermostat or controlled by a circuit board.

You will of course void the warranty on the fridge.

Matt Roberds






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 1:48 pm
From: mroberds@att.net


Pat <pat@nospam.us> wrote:
> I clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press
> every button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched
> and then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure
> enough, it works fine now.

Maybe one of the buttons or switches was stuck on, or had some goop
(beverage, etc) shorting the contacts, and operating the buttons
cleared it? I've seen a remote where a button could be stuck on, but
it was hard to tell by inspection that it was lower than the adjacent
buttons.

Matt Roberds





== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:37 am
From: N_Cook


On 28/01/2014 20:29, Pat wrote:
> I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
>

Probably insulating black CuS corrossion on the slide switches,
corrossion under a key would not stop the unit as a whole from
operating. Daily or regular use keeps that corrossion at bay,
by the wiping action of the phosphor bronze sliding contacts.
At least the corrossion product of silver plating is conductive and of
course gold plating does not corrode in normal circumstances.




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:04 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"


"Pat" <pat@nospam.us> wrote in message
news:624ge9phm6q03r01nrsm00ioe3fhdp4gee@4ax.com...
>I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat


Seen it many times with many brands. Alway recommend the customer try this
before replacing the remote. Don't need to press all buttons, 2 or 3 will
do.

The chip inside just seems to get locked up.

Mark Z.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 3:41 pm
From: "Phil Allison"


"boob = bullshit artist"

>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>> but
>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>
>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>
>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>
>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>> supply cables.
>>>>
>>>
>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>> overload protection for motors.
>>
>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>
>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>> between
>> the AC outlet and the load.
>
>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>
>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>
> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.


** You are one stupid, lying ass.

WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
--------------------------------------------------------------------


> You have such compelling arguments.


** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!

Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.



.... Phil







== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:28 pm
From: bud--


On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>
>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>
>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>
>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>
>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>
>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>> between
>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>
>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>
>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>
> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.

More of the famous Allison logic.

>
> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?

You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
protection."

That should be a trivial you.

>
>> You have such compelling arguments.
>
>
> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!

Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!

>
> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.

Does you mommy approve of your language?






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"




"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>
>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>
> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>

If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...

Arfa





== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:29 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com



WHO the heck are they trying to be: http://static.bootic.com/_pictures/1449104/harman-kardon-ms-150.jpg BOSE?!

That thing looks like the Revel Resort in Atlantic City -LMAO!! At least they could have incorporated the iPod Dock into the cabinet, instead of tacking it onto the side like an afterthought.


I say flip it over and start unscrewing from the bottom.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:10 am
From: KenO


Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.

Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.

Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.

Thanks

Ken




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"


On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken

1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.





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TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:10 am
From: tuinkabouter


On 1/28/2014 4:56 PM, Ismo Salonen wrote:

> Owon has not answered to my query.

At the moment the chinese are celebrating new year.
In china it is big, compare it with Xmas in the us.
Every one is visiting there family.
Don't expect an answer in 10 to 14 days.







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