sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 3 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Surface mount PbF device coding - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
* Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
* Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
* Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS & low
battery - 10 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"


On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken

1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 5:32 pm
From: Adrian C


On 29/01/2014 16:10, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.
>
> Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.
>
> Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.


Googling "fix fake flash" turns up a few sites with info on fixing these.

--
Adrian C










==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > gregz wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> >> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> >> >> it is male?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> >> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> >> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> >> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
> >>
> >> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
> >> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
> >> of work.
> >> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
> >
> >
> > Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> > common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> > Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> > columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> > floor. :)
>
> I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
> boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
> giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.
>
> The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
> the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
> any printer stand back and forth with ease.



Back in the days when plastic was just used for insulation & trim
parts. :)




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
> > new DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
> saw one pop up not too long ago.


I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
available. :)




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:20 pm
From: Cydrome Leader


Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >
>> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
>> > new DB25. :)
>>
>> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
>> saw one pop up not too long ago.
>
>
> I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
> available. :)

It's always the last pin or shell that just won't come out or has the
locking splays break off during the battle to be removed.










==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Jerry Peters wrote:
>
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> > On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
> >
> > A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> > way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.


We used them as band switches in a low noise synthesizer. A DC
voltage would turn the diode on to short out part of the inductor,
raising the center frequency of the VCO. Breaking the 360-510 MHz into
four overlapping segments allowed for more linear and reduced the
effects of noise on the tuning voltage that controlled the tuning.




== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 11:09 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson


En el artículo <lcca2a$hfc$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> escribió:

>The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
>whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.

Welcome to Usenet. :-)

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")




== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bktqlnFbe8aU1@mid.individual.net...

>> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every
>> electronic component was an active device.

** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.

What do you mean by "electronic"? Aren't /all/ devices used in electronic
equipment "electronic" /by definition/?


> The term "active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!

True -- the context is amplification.


> I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended
> to be used in an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk
> working IN ELECTRONICS use it and dealer's catalogues reflect
> the fact, too.

I don't care what most people think. I only care about the truth. To call an
ordinary rectifier an active component is beyond stupid. It is not "active",
in any reasonable sense of the term.

Phil, you're like most human beings. You believe what you want to believe,
without thinking about it.


> And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!

The article is wrong. Too bad.





== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Let's look at this (non-)issue in a broader sense. What was the point of
applying the adjective "active" to particular devices?

"Obviously", it was to distinguish them from non-active devices. And prior to
the Audion, there /were/ no active devices -- devices that /amplified/.

Several years ago we had an insane argument, in which a significant number of
posters claimed that transducers were amplifiers, twisting the definitions of
these terms into perverse forms.

We are now told that a PIN diode -- which is no more than a switch -- is an
active device, apparently because it's made of semiconductor material, which
/just happens/ to be used in active devices. So -- duh -- they must both be
active devices.

What does the material have to do with it? A switch is a switch. Switches are
not, and have never been, considered active devices. Do PIN diodes get a
special break, just because they're semiconductors? Are we now supposed to
classify the power switch on a table radio as an active device?

Calling an electrical generator an active device is meaningless, because it
doesn't draw any useful distinction with "inactive" devices (such as a rake or
a step ladder). An if an electrical generator is an "active" device, why isn't
a log? A log can be burned to produce energy.

Human beings are incredibly stupid. They believe what their parents tell them,
and almost always stick ferociously to their childhood beliefs throughout
life. They believe that whatever pops into their heads is true, and these
beliefs can only rarely be shaken. Worst of all, humans hardly ever ask "How
do I know whether something is true or not?" Of course, in a democracy it
doesn't matter. One person's point of view is as good as any other person's.





== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 8:39 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


Whatever it is, I believe that quite possibly by now the OP has been committed to a sanitarium.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



bud-- wrote:
>
> Must be another alwayswrong sock puppet.


No, this is a different character. A psychotic Aussie.




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:23 pm
From: gregz


Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>
>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>
>>>
>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>> motor burned out.
>>
>
> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
> load current, not to protect the load.
>
> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
> it.


My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.

Greg




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:58 am
From: bud--


On 1/29/2014 11:23 PM, gregz wrote:
> Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>>
>>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>>
>>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>>> motor burned out.
>>>
>>
>> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
>> load current, not to protect the load.
>>
>> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
>> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
>> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
>> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
>> it.
>
>
> My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.
>

The manufacturer tells you what size breaker will withstand the starting
current and provide protection from manor failures.

Overload protection is very likely a thermal trip on the compressor.
Small fans are "impedance" protected.







==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface mount PbF device coding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 2:39 am
From: N_Cook


and Renesas

http://www.renesas.eu/products/lead/specific_info/el/opto_rfmicrowave/index.jsp





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:29 am
From: Joel Eames



TotalFix Brisbane, Australia has professionally gained the reputation as leading repairer of smartphone and tablet under its fold. Especially for Samsung galaxy, TotalFix Brisbane stands unparallel in phone market. For more information please visit http://www.brisbaneiphonescreens.com.au/





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Interchangeability of Panasonic Plasma TV A Boards
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/bf3862a637ece335?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:01 pm
From: packrat1979@gmail.com


I have a Panasonic TH-50PX80U with a defective A board (mainboard). The service manual lists it as part # TNPH0716ABS, but the board itself has a "2A" instead of ABS suffix. I've looked around for a replacement, but can only find boards with the A, AG, or AGS suffix (the -ABS are all out of stock), listed as fitting the similar model TH-42PX80U.
So my question is, are any of these boards interchangeable? Will a mainboard from the 42" version work on the 50", and does the suffix or lack of it on the part number make a difference?
Thanks for any advice.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS &
low battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:53 pm
From: "Danny D."


Today I hurled enough invectives at my Samsung Galaxy S3
to make a whore blush, simply because the GPS wouldn't
work under power.

More specifically, the cigarette lighter car charger is
reputed to be 2.1 Amps, while the standard wall charger
is only 850 mA, so, the 2.1 Amps should have been plenty
to both charge and run the Samsung Galaxy S3.

The battery was down to 17% when all the mischief started
occurring. The GPS kept saying over the bluetooth "GPS
signal lost", "GPS signal re-acquired", over and over
and over and over again, within ten seconds of each other,
such that the GPS was useless - and - worse yet - the
battery went lower and lower until the phone finally
shut off.

Yet, after charging it for an hour on the car, with
the phone off, it got up to about 65%, and then I used
the GPS on the road for another hour, and it STAYED at
65% battery.

What on earth is going on?

Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
and run the phone, and why would it lose charge when the
battery is at 17% yet it maintains charge when the battery
is at 65%?

Does any of this make sense to you?





== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 10:59 pm
From: Andy Burns


Danny D. wrote:

> Why would a 2.1 Amp charger not be enough to both charge
> and run the phone

Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.





== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:31 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

> Does the phone detect the charger as capable of delivering high current?
> If so, it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.

Hmmmmmmmm...... I never saw either "charging A/C" or "charging USB".

All I see is a lightning bolt and a percentage in the icon bar.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3755/12232054495_b0d9fb71fe_o.gif

However, I just downloaded a bunch of battery-monitor apps to see if
they can help me identify the S3 battery drain problem.

In addition, googling, I found this disturbing reference:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/t-mobile-galaxy-s-iii-accessories/185776-2-amp-charger.html
Which says:
"a lot of 2A chargers are designed for iDevices and their weird way of the
charger signaling to the device that it is ok to draw max power. Absent
fairly specific voltages on the data lines iDevices will either assume they
are connected to a computer and only draw 500mA, or they won't charge at all.
However, most non-iDevices simply look for the two data lines to be shorted
together to let them know they are connected to a dedicated high power charger
and not a computer. That means that most non-iDevices will not recognize 2A
chargers that are designed for Apple products as being high-power and so the
phone will only draw 500mA even hooked up to a 2A charger."

If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.





== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 11:35 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:31:47 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:

> If that statement above is true, then my reputed 2.1 Amp car USB charger
> could only be sourcing 500 mA to the Galaxy S3.

Here is another reference that intimates that a standard USB cable
under all conditions only allows 500mA to go into the Samsung Galaxy S3:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html

"With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables allowing
higher (still safe) amperage"





== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:04 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

> it should display "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"
> unless Samsung have hobbled that part of Android.

I appreciate that wonderful advice!

It took me a while to FIND what you were talking about on my
T-Mobile Samsung Galaxy S3 with Android 4.3 installed.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/12232358615_bb6f4d8d5a_o.jpg

I found the "type" of charging when I went to Android 4.3:
Settings->More->About Device->Status

A. When hooked to a PC USB port, it said "Charging (USB)".
B. When hooked to a wall USB port, it said "Charging (AC)".
C. Tomorrow I will test what it says in the car & report back!





== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:13 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

> 2.1 Amps should have been plenty to both charge and run the
> Samsung Galaxy S3.

Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3
will every draw is 900 mA, at least according to this:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html

"Tests done by users over in xda-developers show [the Samsung Galaxy S3]
limits the amount of current the battery can draw to about 0.9 amps
regardless of the current available ... Also when the battery is fully
charged it shuts down totally -- it doesn't continue trickle charging like
simpler chargers."





== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:17 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 07:35:57 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:

> "With a standard USB data cable the phone recognizes it as a USB charging
> source and only pulls 500 mA. You can get "charging only" cables
> allowing higher (still safe) amperage"

Googling for what the difference is between a data & charging cable,
I find this reference:

http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/306607-2-amp-charger-s3.html
Which says:
The two types of cable are a "charge only" cable and a full data cable.
In order to distinguish which type of port they're connected to and therefore
know how much power can be drawn phones examine the two inside "data" wires
on the USB connection. If they are shorted together the phone says hey I'm
plugged into a charging port and can draw max amps and it reports it as "AC"
--if they are not shorted then it limits amp draw to 0.5amps and reports it
as " USB". Note that some wall wart modules short the data pins internally
--with those you can use any cable and pull max. Others don't so in order
to pull over 0.5amps you must use a special "charging only" USB cable that
does the shorting in the cable--these will NOT work for data usage.

Apple phones do something similar but instead of shorting the data pair
they change the voltage on one data wire.





== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 12:52 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 08:13:23 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:

> Googling some more, it seems the most the Samsung Galaxy S3 will every
> draw is 900 mA

It seems, that in the car, the problem is that we probably shouldn't
use Apple USB chargers, unless we use special cables:

At least that is what is implied here:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us.html
Apples 10W/2A charger puts 2.8v on one of the data lines and 2v on the other
(I forget which is which) to tell an iPad that it can pull up to 2A.
Earlier iphone/ipod wall chargers put 2v on each data line which will
limit the device draw to 500mA. This is why you need to use a "charging cable" with
wall/car chargers made for apple products. The Apple oriented chargers do not
internally short the data lines so most android phones will treat it like a 500mA
source. The charger that ships with your android phone has the data lines shorted
internally so it doesn't matter what cable you use.





== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 1:01 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:53:54 +0000, Danny D. wrote:

> Does any of this make sense to you?

What's going on when GPS is enabled while the S3 is on the car charger is
just starting to make sense now, with respect to the current draw:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html

The S3 uses the defined Micro USB charging standard.
If the charger or cable has the data lines shorted, the S3 thinks it is on an AC charger.
If the data lines are not shorted, the S3 thinks it is plugged into a USB port on a PC.
When the S3 thinks it is plugged into an AC charger, the S3 pulls a maximum current of about 800ma.
If the charger is LESS then 800ma. the phone may fall back to the lower current of a USB port.
When the S3 is plugged into a USB port (where the data lines are not shorted),
then the S3 pulls a miximum current of between 300ma and 400ma.
If the charger DOES have shorted data lines, but it can't handle the 800ma
AC charger setting, the phone falls back to the lower USB port rate of about 300ma.





== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 31 2014 3:56 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 09:01:09 +0000, Danny D'Amico wrote:

> Does any of this make sense to you?

Another quote from the same thread, which is instructive:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/195415-max-safe-amps-car-charger-us-2.html#post2997829

Most batteries can handle a charge rate of 1xcapacity.
In the case of the Samsung S3 the battery is 2100mA capacity.
Therefore, the S3 can be safely charged at 2.1A.

The battery has no regulator in it and it not smart in any way.
The S3 has a circuit built in to properly charge a lithium ion
battery and can regulate the source current as needed.





==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en