sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 12 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Sony RM-U100 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
* Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
* Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 3 messages,
3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Surface mount PbF device coding - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
* Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:25 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"




"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>
>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>
> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>

If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...

Arfa





== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:29 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com



WHO the heck are they trying to be: http://static.bootic.com/_pictures/1449104/harman-kardon-ms-150.jpg BOSE?!

That thing looks like the Revel Resort in Atlantic City -LMAO!! At least they could have incorporated the iPod Dock into the cabinet, instead of tacking it onto the side like an afterthought.


I say flip it over and start unscrewing from the bottom.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 28 2014 6:46 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku


On 2014-01-29, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>"A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output. "
>
> So your contention then is that tunnel diodes, Gunn diodes and Zener diodes
> are not active devices.

I'm trying to classify them as such, but I am unable to think of the
justification.

> If that is so, then a magnetron is also passive. It is technically a diode
> with an indirectly heated cathode unless you consider the magnet an element.
> Also, what of the case of a Hall effct device ? Nothing electronic controls
> it, only a magnetic field. Other devices can have more than two terminals
> aqnd be passive, so where does the Hall effect fit in there ?

These devices can be active if we broaden the definition of "input", and
"energy" and so on beyond electronics. I already gave an example of automobile
power steering being active.

In the case of semiconductor diodes, we have photodiodes. (Actually any
silicon diode reacts to light, just isn't necessarily packaged for that use.)
The two ports of a photodiode can be configured to pass current from a power
supply. The light falling on the junction can be regarded as an input: a third
port which modulates the current. This is then "active": some energy delivery
is modulated in proportion to the light, and yet most of the energy is not
derived from that light.

Hall effect sensors and such can be conceived similarly.




== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.

Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.

How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
them work.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC

Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier





== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:03 pm
From: Jerry Peters


Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>
> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> way for it to have an input which controls an output.

Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
been done for years.

PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
current.

--snip--




== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 1:07 pm
From: Jerry Peters


William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.
>
> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes. The ability to switch a tube or
> transistor "on" depends on the device's ability to amplify its input to the
> point it's driven into saturation. The amplification mechanism is exactly the
> same as when the device amplifies a continuously varying signal.
>
> How about controlled rectifiers? These are four-layer (sometimes more) devices
> sometimes modeled as two transistors in a sort of "soixante neuf" arrangement,
> a kind of flip-flop. Again, the same transistor amplification mechanism makes
> them work.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRIAC
>
> Magnetic amplifiers use a small current to control a larger one. They're (as
> the British would say) "valves", just as tubes and transistors are.
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_amplifier
>

I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which I would
argue makes it an active device.




== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 3:15 pm
From: Kaz Kylheku


On 2014-01-29, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> An active device provides signal amplification, or it uses amplification as
> the basis of its operation. That has always been the definition.

That is fine, but you have to remember that amplification includes unity gain
(and below).

> Is digital circuitry active? I'd say yes.

I would say that, as a category, no.

Counterexample:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_logic




== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 4:37 pm
From: dave


On 01/29/2014 01:03 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
>> On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
>>
>> A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
>> way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.
>
> --snip--
>

Pin diodes don't attenuate. They connect resistors.




== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:31 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Jerry Peters" wrote in message news:lcbqi0$ke5$2@dont-email.me...

> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
> I would argue makes it an active device.

So then a light switch is an active device? Hello?

The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.

There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in the
ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active device.
Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
component was an active device.

Case closed.





== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 6:11 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"William Fuckwit Sommerwanker "

>>
>> I'd say amplification is a *sufficient* condition but not a necessary
>> one. A diode can be used as a switch, without amplifying, which
>> I would argue makes it an active device.
>
> So then a light switch is an active device?


** FFS - it not an ELECTRONIC device.

Do you want food mixers and lawn mowers included too ??


> The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and
> stating whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of
> thought.

** Like YOU do all the fucking time - asshole.


> There's no point in discussing it further. If a device cannot amplify (in
> the ordinary, common-sense meaning of the word), it is not an active
> device.

** Crap.


> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every electronic
> component was an active device.

** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.

The term " active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!

I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended to be used in
an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk working IN ELECTRONICS
use it and dealer's catalogues reflect the fact too.

And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_component#Classification



.... Phil










== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Jerry Peters wrote:
>
> Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com> wrote:
> > On 2014-01-28, jurb6006@gmail.com <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> If a diode is not active, why ? You can modulate with it. You can switch with it. This can be done with solid state diodes or otherwise.
> >
> > A diode is not active by itself, because it's a two-port circuit. There is no
> > way for it to have an input which controls an output.
>
> Switching diode which switches an AC signal with a DC signal. It's
> been done for years.
>
> PIN diode which can switch or attenuate an RF signal with a DC
> current.


We used them as band switches in a low noise synthesizer. A DC
voltage would turn the diode on to short out part of the inductor,
raising the center frequency of the VCO. Breaking the 360-510 MHz into
four overlapping segments allowed for more linear and reduced the
effects of noise on the tuning voltage that controlled the tuning.




== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 11:09 pm
From: Mike Tomlinson


En el artículo <lcca2a$hfc$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> escribió:

>The remarks made here are classic examples of opening one's mouth and stating
>whatever pops into one's head, without giving it the least bit of thought.

Welcome to Usenet. :-)

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")




== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bktqlnFbe8aU1@mid.individual.net...

>> Otherwise, you could twist the definition so that any and every
>> electronic component was an active device.

** Define "electronic component" to mean only those items that are
exclusively electronic in nature and you have got it.

What do you mean by "electronic"? Aren't /all/ devices used in electronic
equipment "electronic" /by definition/?


> The term "active device" cannot be defined OUT OF CONTEXT !!!!!!

True -- the context is amplification.


> I say it includes to ANY vacuum tube or semiconductor intended
> to be used in an electronic circuit - cos that is how most folk
> working IN ELECTRONICS use it and dealer's catalogues reflect
> the fact, too.

I don't care what most people think. I only care about the truth. To call an
ordinary rectifier an active component is beyond stupid. It is not "active",
in any reasonable sense of the term.

Phil, you're like most human beings. You believe what you want to believe,
without thinking about it.


> And Wiki agrees with ME !!!!!

The article is wrong. Too bad.





== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 7:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Let's look at this (non-)issue in a broader sense. What was the point of
applying the adjective "active" to particular devices?

"Obviously", it was to distinguish them from non-active devices. And prior to
the Audion, there /were/ no active devices -- devices that /amplified/.

Several years ago we had an insane argument, in which a significant number of
posters claimed that transducers were amplifiers, twisting the definitions of
these terms into perverse forms.

We are now told that a PIN diode -- which is no more than a switch -- is an
active device, apparently because it's made of semiconductor material, which
/just happens/ to be used in active devices. So -- duh -- they must both be
active devices.

What does the material have to do with it? A switch is a switch. Switches are
not, and have never been, considered active devices. Do PIN diodes get a
special break, just because they're semiconductors? Are we now supposed to
classify the power switch on a table radio as an active device?

Calling an electrical generator an active device is meaningless, because it
doesn't draw any useful distinction with "inactive" devices (such as a rake or
a step ladder). An if an electrical generator is an "active" device, why isn't
a log? A log can be burned to produce energy.

Human beings are incredibly stupid. They believe what their parents tell them,
and almost always stick ferociously to their childhood beliefs throughout
life. They believe that whatever pops into their heads is true, and these
beliefs can only rarely be shaken. Worst of all, humans hardly ever ask "How
do I know whether something is true or not?" Of course, in a democracy it
doesn't matter. One person's point of view is as good as any other person's.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony RM-U100
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/879fa0651e0f7494?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:37 am
From: N_Cook


On 28/01/2014 20:29, Pat wrote:
> I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat
>

Probably insulating black CuS corrossion on the slide switches,
corrossion under a key would not stop the unit as a whole from
operating. Daily or regular use keeps that corrossion at bay,
by the wiping action of the phosphor bronze sliding contacts.
At least the corrossion product of silver plating is conductive and of
course gold plating does not corrode in normal circumstances.




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 5:04 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"


"Pat" <pat@nospam.us> wrote in message
news:624ge9phm6q03r01nrsm00ioe3fhdp4gee@4ax.com...
>I started using my old Sony STR-AV910 receiver after it had been
> stored for a year or two. Everything worked except the remote. One
> battery was in pretty good shape, but the other showed only 0.8 volts.
> However, neither battery was leaking. I installed new batteries, but
> still no output. I tried removing and reinstalling the batteries a
> few times and finally gave up. (I did learn that, unlike my old
> iPhone, my newer iPhone has an IR filter on its camera, though).
>
> Anyway, I went to 800-remote's web site and saw I could buy a
> refurbished unit. However, if the problem was caused by dried up
> caps, a refurbished unit of the same age might fail soon. While
> thinking about it, I noticed a "fix it yourself" link on their site. I
> clicked on it and was instructed to remove the batteries, press every
> button once, repeat for every setting of the two slide switched and
> then reinsert the batteries. I was very skeptical, but sure enough,
> it works fine now. I can only guess, it needed to be fully reset and
> pressing the buttons fully shorted any charge remaining on high
> impedance input lines of the ic. Any other thoughts on why that
> procedure fixed it? They claim it fixes 1 in 3 failed remotes.
>
> Pat


Seen it many times with many brands. Alway recommend the customer try this
before replacing the remote. Don't need to press all buttons, 2 or 3 will
do.

The chip inside just seems to get locked up.

Mark Z.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tools to View, Save & Edit Flash Drive Properties?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0fa0a23f84aeb57?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:10 am
From: KenO


Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased.

Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero.

Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties.

Thanks

Ken




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:28 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"


On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 10:10:28 AM UTC-6, KenO wrote:
> Have a Skymedi usb 1GB flash drive that somehow had its size increased. Was able to find the Skymedi Production Tool and tried to return this flash drive to its original properties by deleting the config.file but all this did was to change the property size to zero. Appreciate any tips or links concerning tools to view, save and edit Flash Drive properties. Thanks Ken

1GB drives are so cheap it is probably not worth spending much time on it.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Owon oscilloscope power supply schema or part info?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5f68bb60c6b87eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:10 am
From: tuinkabouter


On 1/28/2014 4:56 PM, Ismo Salonen wrote:

> Owon has not answered to my query.

At the moment the chinese are celebrating new year.
In china it is big, compare it with Xmas in the us.
Every one is visiting there family.
Don't expect an answer in 10 to 14 days.








==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 12:28 pm
From: bud--


On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> "boob = bullshit artist"
>
>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>> but
>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>
>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>
>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>
>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>
>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>> between
>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>
>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>
>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>
> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.

More of the famous Allison logic.

>
> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?

You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
protection."

That should be a trivial you.

>
>> You have such compelling arguments.
>
>
> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!

Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!

>
> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.

Does you mommy approve of your language?





== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 8:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



bud-- wrote:
>
> Must be another alwayswrong sock puppet.


No, this is a different character. A psychotic Aussie.




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 9:23 pm
From: gregz


Fred Abse <excretatauris@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:13:56 -0500, Jim Wilkins wrote:
>
>> "DoN. Nichols" <BPdnicholsBP@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
>> news:slrnle97cu.5kc.BPdnicholsBP@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>> On 2014-01-25, Jim Wilkins <muratlanne@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Why do you need two fuses for a single-phase motor?
>>>
>>> In the UK, you don't, because 240 VAC comes with one side grounded.
>>> However, in the USA, 240 VAC is normally supplied with a grounded center
>>> tap, so if you have only one fuse -- or have two but only one blows, you
>>> still have 120 VAC live in the motor's housing, and
>>> potentially available for contact and personal zapping. :-)
>>>
>>>
>> I assumed it was wired with a 20A double-pole breaker at the panel
>> protecting from shorts and a smaller fuse sized (how?) to blow before the
>> motor burned out.
>>
>
> Panel breakers are there to protect the upstream wiring from excessive
> load current, not to protect the load.
>
> Matching the I-squared-t of a breaker, or fuse, to startup and running
> conditions of a motor is not trivial. Motors are subject to starting
> inrush currents sometimes tens of times the rated full-load current. Be
> guided by the data published by reputable manufacturers. There's plenty of
> it.


My ac compressor unit says, use 20 amp breaker. The wiring said nothing.

Greg





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >
> > gregz wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> > vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> >> >> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> >> >> it is male?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> >> > decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> >> > across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> >> > Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
> >>
> >> We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
> >> minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
> >> of work.
> >> Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
> >
> >
> > Those printers were very expensive, so not having a spare wasn't a
> > common occurrence. I hated the GE band printers, but I thought the Data
> > Products drum printers were interesting. Just don't print all 132
> > columns of the same character too often, or they would walk across the
> > floor. :)
>
> I had a Printronix P300 or P600 at home for a while. It had 4 or 5 large
> boards to make up the logic/interface and store the character ROMs. The
> giant 1/3rd HP sized induction motor inside of it was the best part.
>
> The other rediculous beast was a Florida Data dot matrix printer. It had
> the fastest carriage I've ever seen in any printer. The thing would rock
> any printer stand back and forth with ease.



Back in the days when plastic was just used for insulation & trim
parts. :)




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 29 2014 7:54 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
> > new DB25. :)
>
> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
> saw one pop up not too long ago.


I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
available. :)





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Surface mount PbF device coding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc502f9aa94e682d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 2:39 am
From: N_Cook


and Renesas

http://www.renesas.eu/products/lead/specific_info/el/opto_rfmicrowave/index.jsp





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TOPIC: Get bestiphone repairs in Brisbane
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34769c6c13e0e9cd?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 30 2014 3:29 am
From: Joel Eames



TotalFix Brisbane, Australia has professionally gained the reputation as leading repairer of smartphone and tablet under its fold. Especially for Samsung galaxy, TotalFix Brisbane stands unparallel in phone market. For more information please visit http://www.brisbaneiphonescreens.com.au/




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