sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Phil, Gareth, Trevor, anyone ... ? - 7 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4851db88522f901d?hl=en
* Active device nonsense - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS & low
battery - 10 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
* Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection) - 1 messages,
1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
* Advice sought Pioneer SX-434 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/22917db8bf1b316a?hl=en
* Samsung Notebook, crash to black - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/079855ceb3d08c3c?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Phil, Gareth, Trevor, anyone ... ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4851db88522f901d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 10:20 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


>"Similar magnets are attached to the relays in certain BGW amplifiers (
1980s, US made heavy weights) and no doubt for the same reason. "

You Sir, have redeemed yourself. I thought it impossibble really. Take a bow(ow) LOL.

I shit you not. I'm a pretty fart smeller y'know and I was sure it had something to do with the ridiculous eardrum-melting current but in my morning after you actually opened up a little corner of my mind that had been dormant for some time. I KNEW it had something to do with current, but to extrapolate, it is wholly possible that such an amplifier would be driving a chiefly inductive load. WTF did I think was going to happen with 80 fucking volts across a (voice) coil ?

<(me)DUMKOPF ! It's not a weak spring, it's the fact that plasma can melt even the shiniest of silver plating and weld it quite effectively. One of those moments.

Now I know why we keep you around you autistic, Tourettite scallywag scoundrel !

Back to your regularly scheduled bullshit. Be well. And don't forget to eat shit and die !

LOL

(I mean it Phil, I would heve never thought of that in, well, not a MILLION years but maybe a thousand)




== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 10:57 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bl3bgfFgm4uU1@mid.individual.net...


"Gareth Magennis"
>> Arfa
>
> Not seen one of those before.
>
> As for the magents, I believe they might be something to do with affecting
> the arcing between contacts under various fault conditions?
>
> Phil will know the complete details as I remember him posting on here
> before about it.
>

** Someone has a good memory.

Similar magnets are attached to the relays in certain BGW amplifiers (
1980s, US made heavy weights) and no doubt for the same reason.

The purpose is to enhance the DC breaking capacity of the contacts - with DC
supplies above about 60V, ordinary relays cannot break arc that forms upon
opening IF the amp " goes DC".

The magnetic force causes arc to form into a U shape, making it longer and
far more likely to break.

IME, an 80V DC supply feeding into a 4ohm load via a large relay will break
this way - but *just* and probably only once !!!!!

It would have NO chance without the magnetic field.


... Phil




Phil, you have to also tell us the extremely relevant story of grounding the
speaker relay's normally off terminal, so a "DC fault" amplifier doesn't fry
the speakers via the arc that doesn't die.
(In the absence of a magnet)
I remember you posting about that somewhere too.

This stuff does stay in my head sometimes you know.


Cheers,

Gareth.





== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 3:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



N_Cook wrote:
>
> On 31/01/2014 21:48, Baron wrote:
> > N_Cook scribbled thus:
> >
> >> Which reminds me I was going to find out,but forgot, how the
> >> unpowered, delay-open, door catches work on washing machines
> >
> > Thermal device !
> >
>
> resourceful stuff that bimetal, from watch escapements , via vehicle
> lamp flashers, flourescent tube starters to washing machines, it gets
> everywhere


Metal cutting saw blades...




== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 5:19 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"Gareth Magennis"
> "Phil Allison" "Gareth Magennis"
>>> Arfa
>>
>> Not seen one of those before.
>>
>> As for the magents, I believe they might be something to do with
>> affecting
>> the arcing between contacts under various fault conditions?
>>
>> Phil will know the complete details as I remember him posting on here
>> before about it.
>>
>
> ** Someone has a good memory.
>
> Similar magnets are attached to the relays in certain BGW amplifiers (
> 1980s, US made heavy weights) and no doubt for the same reason.
>
> The purpose is to enhance the DC breaking capacity of the contacts - with
> DC
> supplies above about 60V, ordinary relays cannot break arc that forms upon
> opening IF the amp " goes DC".
>
> The magnetic force causes arc to form into a U shape, making it longer and
> far more likely to break.
>
> IME, an 80V DC supply feeding into a 4ohm load via a large relay will
> break
> this way - but *just* and probably only once !!!!!
>
> It would have NO chance without the magnetic field.
>
>
> Phil, you have to also tell us the extremely relevant story of grounding
> the
> speaker relay's normally off terminal, so a "DC fault" amplifier doesn't
> fry
> the speakers via the arc that doesn't die.


** Some power amps use that idea ( ie diverting the arc to ground while
shorting the speakers ) but there has to be fuses in each DC supply rail -
or you will soon have a fire on your hands.




.... Phil






== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 5:29 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bl5komF17erU1@mid.individual.net...


"Gareth Magennis"
> "Phil Allison" "Gareth Magennis"
>>> Arfa
>>
>> Not seen one of those before.
>>
>> As for the magents, I believe they might be something to do with
>> affecting
>> the arcing between contacts under various fault conditions?
>>
>> Phil will know the complete details as I remember him posting on here
>> before about it.
>>
>
> ** Someone has a good memory.
>
> Similar magnets are attached to the relays in certain BGW amplifiers (
> 1980s, US made heavy weights) and no doubt for the same reason.
>
> The purpose is to enhance the DC breaking capacity of the contacts - with
> DC
> supplies above about 60V, ordinary relays cannot break arc that forms upon
> opening IF the amp " goes DC".
>
> The magnetic force causes arc to form into a U shape, making it longer and
> far more likely to break.
>
> IME, an 80V DC supply feeding into a 4ohm load via a large relay will
> break
> this way - but *just* and probably only once !!!!!
>
> It would have NO chance without the magnetic field.
>
>
> Phil, you have to also tell us the extremely relevant story of grounding
> the
> speaker relay's normally off terminal, so a "DC fault" amplifier doesn't
> fry
> the speakers via the arc that doesn't die.


** Some power amps use that idea ( ie diverting the arc to ground while
shorting the speakers ) but there has to be fuses in each DC supply rail -
or you will soon have a fire on your hands.



Yes, I thought the idea was that proper fusing protects both amp and
speakers.

I note that some Peavey amps, for example, do not have any speaker relays at
all, but use a SCR/Triac to short the output in the event of DC, saving the
speakers, but blowing the amps, which dont appear to be fused properly for
such an occurrence.


Gareth.



Gareth.






== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 2 2014 3:43 am
From: N_Cook


On 01/02/2014 23:45, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> On 31/01/2014 21:48, Baron wrote:
>>> N_Cook scribbled thus:
>>>
>>>> Which reminds me I was going to find out,but forgot, how the
>>>> unpowered, delay-open, door catches work on washing machines
>>>
>>> Thermal device !
>>>
>>
>> resourceful stuff that bimetal, from watch escapements , via vehicle
>> lamp flashers, flourescent tube starters to washing machines, it gets
>> everywhere
>
>
> Metal cutting saw blades...
>

bi metal yes, but surely just as a hard surface bonded to softer
resilient backing, rather than for its differential temperature
coefficients of expansion, ie bending on heating property




== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 2 2014 3:50 am
From: N_Cook


I like the bi-metal discs that you get in thermal switches, that
suddenly dome in the opposite sense at a precise temperature, and built
in hysterisis as well , before they will flip back the other way on
lowering of temperature.
Perhaps a bi-metal arrangement , even if requiring some diverted current
doing the heating instead of "in-passing" heating , would work as
heavy-duty DC relays, relying on this strong stored mechanical energy ,
rather than magnetism and springs to break contact





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Active device nonsense
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 12:04 pm
From: mike


On 1/30/2014 7:09 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:

> I don't care what most people think.

So, why keep trying to make them care what
you think?




== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 2:50 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"mike" wrote in message news:lcjk0m$d49$1@dont-email.me...
On 1/30/2014 7:09 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> I don't care what most people think.

> So, why keep trying to make them care what you think?

Maybe someday I might change a mind or two.

In all my life, I have never met one person who said, "You know, Bill, you're
right. I don't use my intelligence well."





== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 3:49 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



mike wrote:
>
> On 1/30/2014 7:09 AM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>
> > I don't care what most people think.
>
> So, why keep trying to make them care what
> you think?


Some people care about reality. All 'Diode' means is two terminals,
but many think only of 'Rectifier'.




== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 5:18 pm
From: "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."


In article <3b32a6e4-c7bc-4add-a052-b7a76fd12a64@googlegroups.com>,
jurb6006@gmail.com says...
>
> Whatever it is, I believe that quite possibly by now the OP has been committed to a sanitarium.

Big device between an active device and active components!...

I think this all started with the intention of talking about
active components. But I see it has spread out of control like
syphilis.

Jamie








== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 6:09 pm
From: josephkk


On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 21:54:48 +0000 (UTC), Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>
wrote:

>On 2014-01-25, Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid> wrote:
>> dave <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>> On 01/23/2014 06:05 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>>
>>>> dave wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> On 01/23/2014 06:45 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> It is not a switch or a valve.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It's a solid state diode that oscillates. DC in, and ~10 GHZ out.
>>>> Search on Gunnplexer. You see them on automatic doors in almost every
>>>> store. A microwave mixer diode takes a sample from the Gunn diode and
>>>> compares it to any reflected signals. This results in a low frequency
>>>> signal that is detected, amplified and signals the door to open. How can
>>>> a passive diode do that?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Like I said. You can hit a piece of quartz with a hammer and it will
>>> oscillate; that doesn't mean it's considered and active device. An
>>> active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another. As
>>> in amplify or switch. Thermionic valve, transistor, SCR, Triac is what
>>> we are going for.
>>>
>>
>>> An active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another.
>>
>> So a relay is an active device?
>
>We should probably apply the "active" or "passive" designation to circuits
>rather than devices. When we say that a device is active, it means that the
>only sensible way of using it is in the role where it provides an active
>circuit.
>
>A passive circuit is one in which the energy source for driving the output
>signals is derived from the input signals, rather than from some auxiliary
>power supply.
>
>Anything else is an active circuit.
>
>Because the energy for driving outputs is derived from inputs in a passive
>device, a passive device can never amplify power; though if it contains
>inductors, it can step voltage up or down and thereby modify impedance.
>
>A logic inverter circuit built on a relay is definitely active. Justification:
>the device produces an output which is based on the input, but which does not
>draw energy from the input at all to power the output. Power is applied to the
>switch, in series with a load resistor. This energy source is not considered
>an input signal.
>
>If the relay's switch is used to pass through or cut off a signal (say as part
>of a multiplexer), then we can regard it as passive. When the signal passes
>through the relay, it does so without amplification: the output is powered by
>the input. The next and previous device are not isolated from each other's
>impedances in any way by the relay; it is transparent. Moreover, the relay's
>coil is powered by *its* input: the switching mechanism itself does not have
>its own source of power.
>
>(Note that by the same logic, we could argue that a FET used for signal
>switching also gives rise to a passive circuit.)


And just to trip you up,what about USB to TIA 232 converters?

?-)





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Trying to understand the current draw of a Samsung Galaxy S3 under GPS &
low battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1dceb0f9a68c6f2d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 2:19 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 11:16:06 +0000, Chris Uppal wrote:

> maybe the reason why your phone discharges faster when < ~17%
> full is that below that limit it is firing
> up bluetooth to warn you that power is low.

I guess if I had a better understanding of how the GPS and
bluetooth consumed power, I'd be better off.

One thing about the bluetooth, since I have a bluetooth speaker
in the vehicle, it's always "talking" to the bluetooth for
phone calls and for GPS - although I don't know how much the
bluetooth needs to 'fire up' to say "GPS signal lost" and
"GPS signal reacquired'.

One thing that 'seems' to have made a difference in the
ensuing days is that I've installed a plethora of battery
monitor freeware on the S3.

A bunch of them were garbage, so I deleted them soon after
first using them, but, the ones still on my phone are:

a. Battery Doctor
b. Battery Monitor Widget
c. Elixr & Elixr2

And, in a different category:
a. Wakelock Detector (uZumm Apps)

I'm not sure what combination of things made the problem less
severe, but, using these programs, I was able to find the high
draining ones, and I uninstalled most of the culprits, I think.

I do like how, for example, Battery Doctor, kills twenty running
apps at a time, all of which I hadn't even realized were running.

For example, unbeknownst to me, the Chinese mapping program,
ZNavi, was apparently using the GPS all the time, even when GPS
was turned off on the phone. So I uninstalled it, and a few
other programs that kept waking up the phone, or running in
the background.

So, now I have the operating system being the main consumer
of power at 75% with all other programs only consuming in the
single digits of battery percentage.

I need to test on the road, but, I am hopeful that this
"optimization" (which had yielded surprising results)
will help somewhat.





== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 2:51 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 11:16:06 +0000, Chris Uppal wrote:

> I've mentioned, in a recent thread, that you can buy in-line USB ammeters;

I'm going to consider that, although my "plan" was simply to cut
an existing usb cable in half, and wrapping the wires around a
bunch of brass screws sticking out of a piece of wood.

However, for convenience, and longer-term data, the inline
ammeters do seem to be useful, and not a lot of money.





== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 6:13 pm
From: Patrick


On 01/02/2014 13:59, Gordon Levi wrote:
> For five dollars with free shipping you may prefer this
> <http://tinyurl.com/maqfv9r>. I don't own anything similar so I can't
> provide a recommendation. As I understand it, the cheap ones like this
> can't pass through the data.

I've just copied a file to PC, from 'Samsung GT-P3110' via USB cable
with said device inline.





== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:05 pm
From: "Danny D."


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 09:21:44 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

> Only place I'd fault it is announcements of route recomputation. Garmin
> would right away say "Recomputing Route" as soon as I departed from it's
> route. Sygic issues a couple of "Make A U-Turn" directives and then
> just silently recomputes the route. I found that disconcerting and a
> little confusing at first but now that I know what's coming I'm used to
> it.

I had the same experience with Sygic, only much worse.
I was on a well-known shortcut (highway 84 in Livermore)
between i680 and i580 and Sygic, for fifteen miles, kept
telling me to make a u-turn.

It wasn't until I was almost at i580 that Sygic finally
decided to recalculate.

In contrast, Navigator freeware recomputes within 100 or 200
feet of missing an intersection.

On the other hand, the Sygic 3D display is absolutely gorgeous,
and, even better than that of the Garmin nüvi!




== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:10 pm
From: Gordon Levi


Patrick <invalid@invalid.invalid> wrote:

>On 01/02/2014 13:59, Gordon Levi wrote:
>> For five dollars with free shipping you may prefer this
>> <http://tinyurl.com/maqfv9r>. I don't own anything similar so I can't
>> provide a recommendation. As I understand it, the cheap ones like this
>> can't pass through the data.
>
>I've just copied a file to PC, from 'Samsung GT-P3110' via USB cable
>with said device inline.

Thanks for the correction Patrick. I have just ordered one!




== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:45 pm
From: "Danny D."


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 05:17:38 -0600, Capt Rick wrote:

> No need to sacrifice a USB cable.
> Measure the current going into the
> cigarette lighter adapter.

Now why hadn't I thought of that!

I can just hook an ammeter across the fuse
for the cigarette lighter socket, which
will give me the current being consumed
with, and without the phone being charged!





== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:47 pm
From: "Danny D."


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 09:17:30 -0500, (PeteCresswell) wrote:

> With GPS on I can leave it with screen black for a day and it will lose
> less than 5% of it's charge. OTOH, maybe GPS is not working when the
> screen is black..... ??

Wow. Today I removed the S3 from the wall charger,
and, within 5 hours, the battery was nearly dead.

When I looked to see what was consuming the power,
I found, much to my surprise, that "Google Play Services"
consumed more power than the Android operating system!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/12261909853_b6c685ceab_o.gif





== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:51 pm
From: "Danny D."


On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 06:59:53 +0000, Andy Burns wrote:

> Does the phone detect the charger as capable of
> delivering high current? If so, it should display
> "Charging A/C" instead of "Charging USB"

Testing for this, I found 4 different possible reports:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/12262187304_780eeb227a_o.gif

1. Charging (AC)

2. Charging (USB)

3. Charging

4. Full





== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 9:48 pm
From: mroberds@att.net


In sci.electronics.repair Danny D. <dannyd@nowhere.invalid> wrote:
> On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 05:17:38 -0600, Capt Rick wrote:
>
>> No need to sacrifice a USB cable. Measure the current going into the
>> cigarette lighter adapter.
>
> I can just hook an ammeter across the fuse for the cigarette lighter
> socket, which will give me the current being consumed with, and
> without the phone being charged!

Check the current across the lighter fuse in three conditions:

1. Nothing plugged in to the lighter socket.

2. Charger plugged in to the lighter socket, but phone not plugged in
to the charger.

3. Charger plugged in to the lighter socket and phone plugged in to
the charger.

1 is because, on some cars, the "lighter" fuse also supplies a small
amount of current for other things, like keeping time in a clock, or
keeping the station memory in the radio - stuff like that. It might not
be weird to measure a few mA on that circuit even with nothing plugged
in to the cigarette lighter.

In newer cars, the trend is to have more fuses for individual circuits,
so this may not happen in your car. If your cigarette lighter switches
on and off with the ignition (a lot of Japanese cars do this), then this
may not happen in your car either.

Matt Roberds





== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 2 2014 4:28 am
From: Capt Rick


On Sat, 01 Feb 2014 09:13:24 -0500, TJ <TJ@noneofyour.business> wrote:

>On 02/01/2014 06:17 AM, Capt Rick wrote:
>> On Sat, 1 Feb 2014 07:08:11 +0000 (UTC), Danny D'Amico
>> <danny@is.invalid> wrote in part:
>>
>>
>>> I plan on sacrificing a USB cable to that I can hook an
>>> ammeter in series to test the actual current flowing.
>>
>> No need to sacrifice a USB cable. Measure the current going into the
>> cigarette lighter adapter. Measure without the Galaxy plugged in for
>> any idle current. Plug in the Galaxy. Subtract idle current then
>> multiply by 2.52 for a rough figure - 12.6V / 5V = 2.52. For more
>> accuracy measure the actual 12V Voltage and the actual 5V Voltage of
>> the USB output.
>>
>> The current will be less on the 12V end because it is a step down
>> circuit. Just for example, if 1A on the 12V side, 12.6V X 1A = 12.6
>> Watts / 5V X 2.52A = 12.6 Watts.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>Don't know about modern vehicles, but I believe that with older ones if
>the vehicle is running, the alternator puts the voltage at more like
>13.6V, especially if it's still charging the battery after starting the
>engine. Could be higher with a high-output alternator. They cut back
>once the battery is charged, but there is that period of time where it's
>higher.
>
>TJ

Yes TJ, the voltage is higher with the engine running. It's
_nominally_ 13.8V, but could really be anywhere from 12 to 15V
depending on engine RPM, load, and battery state of charge. That's why
I mentioned for more accuracy measure the actual 12V Voltage... I see
I didn't mention to do all this with the engine not running and the
ignition switch in ACC :-) In that event the Voltage should be very
close to 12.6.

I also didn't mention the efficiency of the adapter, which could be
anywhere from 75 to 95%. But then I don't think he's looking for a
right-on-the-money current, but more of a ballpark figure. I could be
wrong.

Rick





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 5:58 pm
From: josephkk


On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 02:25:36 -0000, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

>
>
>"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
>news:lc62c1$klp$1@dont-email.me...
>> "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:xuuFu.120$ac4.97@fx05.am4...
>>
>>> No, I haven't. There's a limit to the amount of time that I'm prepared to
>>> spend on this consumer junk, governed entirely by the law of diminishing
>>> returns. To be honest, if getting inside it involves removing glued-on
>>> trims, then I am not interested beyond the point that I have now reached.
>>
>> To put it a bit more bluntly... Is it not reasonable to assume that a
>> product that's glued together is not intended to be repaired?
>>
>
>If something is genuinely glued together, then it gets little more than a
>cursory look if it crosses my bench. However, this one was slightly
>different from that in that it had lots of obvious screws holding the case
>halves together, and when these were removed, it was 'almost' coming apart
>in the way that you would expect, but something else, right in the middle,
>was still preventing it from coming all the way. I'm sure that a bit of
>brute force and ignorance would have seen it apart, but it's a fancy
>expensive-looking (and probably /actually/ expensive) item, and I was
>concerned that something visible might 'give', leaving nasty damage ...
>
>Arfa

Sounds like a screw hidden under a label or sticker.

?-)





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuses in place of motor "heaters"? (induction motor protection)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0933319a7c117739?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 6:47 pm
From: josephkk


On Wed, 29 Jan 2014 14:28:16 -0600, bud-- <null@void.com> wrote:

>On 1/28/2014 5:41 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
>> "boob = bullshit artist"
>>
>>>>>>> They often are used for short circuit protection of a motor circuit,
>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>> not for overload protection.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ** Horse manure !!!!!!!!!!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Overload protection is EXACTLY what circuit breakers are there for.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You cab size them to protect a stalled or overloaded motor or just the
>>>>>> supply cables.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The step between circuit breaker ratings is far too large to provide
>>>>> overload protection for motors.
>>>>
>>>> ** FFS - asshole try LEARNING TO READ
>>>>
>>>> Thermal breakers come in any almost size you like and you fit them
>>>> between
>>>> the AC outlet and the load.
>>>
>>>> Thermal/ magnetic breakers are not simply for "short circuit protection".
>>>> They provide cable overload ( overtemp) protection.
>>>
>>> Not in the US NEC. And not the practice in the US.
>>
>> ** You are one stupid, lying ass.
>
>More of the famous Allison logic.
>
>>
>> WTF do you think AC supply circuit breakers are fucking for?
>
>You forgot to to answer the question. Maybe because you deleted it.
>"What [AC supply circuit] breaker would you use for overload protection
>for a motor with a run current of 16.3A. Breaker must be UL listed, able
>to withstand motor starting currents, and suitable for use as motor
>protection."
>
>That should be a trivial you.
>
>>
>>> You have such compelling arguments.
>>
>>
>> ** While you have posted NONE at ALL !!!!!!!!
>
>Only if you can't read !!!!!!!!
>
>>
>> Fuck off - you crazy fucking nut case.
>
>Does you mommy approve of your language?

For real horror to think he eats with that mouth.

?-)





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Advice sought Pioneer SX-434
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/22917db8bf1b316a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 1 2014 7:16 pm
From: josephkk


On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 17:40:58 -0800, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:

>Greetings All,
>I have an old reciever/amplifier, the Pioneer SX-434. My folks bought
>it back in 1973 or '72. I think. Anyway, it sounded great when I was
>in high school and then later when it somehow migrated to my house in
>the early '80s. Somewhere along the way it was relegated to the garage
>and then the basement in my new house. It has not been powered up in
>years, at least 15. But it worked great then. Now it has a chance to
>provide me with listening pleasure once again. In my machine shop. I
>need new speakers, I gave the old ones away. But before I hook up new
>speakers and plug in the iPod, is there anything I should ckeck first?
>Should I open it up and look for stuff coming out of electrolytic
>capacitors? Should it be run at a low volume for a period of time? I
>would love to have the thing working for me again. A little nostalgia.
>My dad, who will be 80 in a couple months, would be delighted to hear
>it when he comnes by to visit. He doesn't even know I still have it.
>Thanks,
>Eric
>
>---
>This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>http://www.avast.com

Given that brand and vintage i would just go for it. That said, mroberds
advice to exercize all the controls first is good advice.

?-)





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung Notebook, crash to black
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/079855ceb3d08c3c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 2 2014 4:46 am
From: N_Cook


Decided, at this stage, could have been caused by loose clothing up
against the fan outlet grill. So glued on 2 halves of a bumpon either
side of the grill to avoid a simple cloth drape blocking the feeble fan
flow.





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