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- Replacing pump on espresso machine? - 4 Updates
- Fan causing MW RFI - 8 Updates
- Lead-free only? failure mode ? - 2 Updates
- Mullard Ferroxcube ferrite - 1 Update
- slightly OT: anybody getting access to craigslist? - 6 Updates
- What is a good circular loop of metal for a science project atom? - 1 Update
- Update on the Fender ... - 1 Update
- SMD code "AL207", reference? - 1 Update
- Old Amstrad PC2086 - 1 Update
josephkk <joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net>: Nov 24 06:27PM -0800 On Fri, 21 Nov 2014 10:32:03 -0800 (PST), Amanda Riphnykhazova >Yes, I had heard that you can irretrievably adulterate a coffee machine such that it can never be used for coffee any more if you put CLR in it. (But it definitely burns off all the limescale in minutes) >No one seems to have come across a CLR alternative (of which there are MANY) which doesn't do this. I use a product called "Dip-it" in the US. It gets the job done and is specifically intended for this use. (cleaning coffee makers) This is as close as i could get to the MSDS: www.reckittprofessional.com/customer_services/msds/dist/368928_r.pdf ?-) |
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Nov 25 08:13AM -0800 Actually I have some of that but don't use it because someone told me it is too harsh for espresso machines and was designed for drip coffee makers. I think I Wil try to rolll it out as, -with a formerly completely blocked machine, - there is no knowing what is in there! |
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Nov 25 08:13AM -0800 Actually I have some of that but don't use it because someone told me it is too harsh for espresso machines and was designed for drip coffee makers. I think I Wil try to rolll it out as, -with a formerly completely blocked machine, - there is no knowing what is in there! |
Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Nov 25 08:13AM -0800 Actually I have some of that but don't use it because someone told me it is too harsh for espresso machines and was designed for drip coffee makers. I think I Wil try to rolll it out as, -with a formerly completely blocked machine, - there is no knowing what is in there! |
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Nov 24 11:24AM -0800 I find most switching supplies sound through MW and LW only when the radio is one meter or less near. Further than that they have little effect. |
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (David Platt): Nov 24 11:37AM -0800 >in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there >any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the >mains wiring before I take it down? I would certainly try a noise filter at the mains connection. This would block conducted EMI pretty effectively, which is likely the path through which the noise is getting out of the fan unit. Corcom (TE Connectivity) and other companies make modular filter "cans" which might help a lot. They have various combinations of shunt C, and series L (wired up for common-mode and differential-mode suppression), with different amperage ratings and different sorts of termination. A Corcom model 3VW1 might be the sort of thing you're looking for... 3 ampere limit (up to 250 VAC), has both common-mode and differential- mode inductive filters, "effective to control emissions in equipment using SCR and TTL circuits for compliance with FCC Part 15, Subpart J and EN55022, Level A, down to 150 kHz." This "can" model has .25"/6.3mm spade-lug terminals for the line and load side... Corcom does make some which have wire-lead terminals but none in the W series, unfortunately. If the fan is hard-wired to the mains (you didn't say) then installing a module of this sort in the junction box would be the way to go. If it's a plug-in to a mains outlet, then you'd need to build some sort of goes-in-between box or a "filtering jumper cable". There are quite a few other manufacturers of similar sealed EMI filter modules... Corcom is just the best-known-to-me. These sorts of filters are commonly available through surplus channels (online dealers, ham-radio flea-market sales, etc.) as well as through distributors such as Mouser and Digi-Key. |
"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Nov 24 03:33PM -0500 "Jeff Layman" <JMLayman@invalid.invalid> wrote in message news:m4v9va$2qt$1@news.albasani.net... > before I take it down? > -- > Jeff You might try winding the AC lines through a ferrite RFI core like the ones found on switching power modules. Some can be clamped around the wires. You will want to get all three leads through the core, L, N, and Ground. Maybe even do a couple of turns if the core is large enough. |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 06:10PM -0800 Jeff Layman wrote: > in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there > any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the > mains wiring before I take it down? ** The instructions say all units must be earthed - is yours? You could try a suppression cap across the line( active to neutral) at the terminal block - close as possible to the fan itself. A class X1 or X2 film cap of about 470nF is a good place to start. But I bet there is one inside the fan already. I expect the fan motor is a BLDC type, possibly operating at mains voltage, and the pitch of the noise on AM would vary with its speed. BTW: Are you living far from AM transmission sites - say than 50 kms ?? BTW 2: Are you living in a metal clad ( aluminium sided ) building ? Either of the above means the AM signals inside your home will be very weak. .... Phil |
"hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net" <hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net>: Nov 24 06:49PM -0800 Does the interference show up when you use a battery operated radio? That will give you some idea as to whether the interference is conducted or radiated, or, maybe both. |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 08:10PM -0800 > Does the interference show up when you use a battery operated radio? ** Try reading the OP. > That will give you some idea as to whether the interference is conducted or radiated, or, maybe both. ** Huh? Conducted interference ends up radiating via the AC supply wiring. ... Phil |
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Nov 25 05:23AM > in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there > any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the > mains wiring before I take it down? My furnace fan creates so much noise, I can't do much with it on. It's variable speed, and has peak noise at max speed. I tried some filtering on ac and thermostat, but it's a big problem. Greg |
Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 25 03:59PM On 25/11/2014 02:10, Phil Allison wrote: >> connector. Is there any point in trying some sort of screening or >> RFI suppression on the mains wiring before I take it down? > ** The instructions say all units must be earthed - is yours? I hope so! It was installed by a pro electrician and I have a NICEIC certificate which says so (http://niceic.com/). But I'll check it anyway. > at the terminal block - close as possible to the fan itself. A class > X1 or X2 film cap of about 470nF is a good place to start. But I bet > there is one inside the fan already. The only thing I can get in the next day or so is this delta suppression filter: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/delta-suppression-filter-rg21x > I expect the fan motor is a BLDC type, possibly operating at mains > voltage, and the pitch of the noise on AM would vary with its speed. Guess so. The fan often turns in the reverse direction for a second or so when switched on, then corrects itself. > BTW: > Are you living far from AM transmission sites - say than 50 kms ?? No. The 999kHz local radio transmitter (1kW) is about 15 km away.. > BTW 2: > Are you living in a metal clad ( aluminium sided ) building ? The fan is in a new metal-framed conservatory. The mains-powered MW receiver in the conservatory is completely swamped by the interference. But the portable radio is outside, maybe 6 metres from the fan, and that has the interference superimposed on the station I am listening to. It's no doubt attenuating the interference, but not enough > Either of the above means the AM signals inside your home will be > very weak. > ..... Phil Thanks for the info and suggestions. -- Jeff |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 06:42PM -0800 Paul Drahn wrote: > Lead-free solder does not flex. ** The term "lead free" incudes a huge variety of solders nearly all of which are quite flexible. As wire from a reel, 99C (tin/copper) solder differs little from 60/40 in terms of flexibility. > It fractures. Lead based solder will > flex because of the lead. ** Strange how cracked solder joints on PCBs long predatse the use of Pb free solders. IME - the main reason for bad joints with Pb free solders is failure of the base metal to alloy with the solder - partly due to the use of almost pure tin and partly to do with the use of low activity, water soluble fluxes. ... Phil |
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 25 03:19PM no bypass contacts on insert mode. They've skimped on having no MUTE reminder LEDs per channel and one under the bargraph that mutes the whole lot, unLEDed, just where you would unknowingly push it on handling the mixer, 10 minutes wasted there |
Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Nov 25 11:26PM +1100 On 15/11/2014 23:53, N_Cook wrote: > If I pop-off suddenly ,my "estate" will probably be dumped in a skip > also, any ideas along "living-will" lines , but even then bequested to > who ? as probably more a liability than an asset. You could try leaving it to Arthur Missira. He has already scanned in a lot of old Mullard stuff: http://archive.org/search.php?query=%28artmisa%29%20AND%20title%3A%28mullard%29 |
RobertMacy <robert.a.macy@gmail.com>: Nov 24 12:27PM -0700 I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes up error, now for over 3 hours! Do you guys get access? |
Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Nov 24 11:27AM -0800 On Monday, November 24, 2014 11:25:13 AM UTC-8, Robert Macy wrote: > I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes > up error, now for over 3 hours! > Do you guys get access? Working ok for me here in Olympia, Wash. |
Don Y <this@is.not.me.com>: Nov 24 12:37PM -0700 On 11/24/2014 12:27 PM, RobertMacy wrote: > I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes up > error, now for over 3 hours! > Do you guys get access? Sure. Local and "global". Did you pay the Craigslist fee announced in the email you received earlier this month? |
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Nov 24 09:14PM > I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes > up error, now for over 3 hours! > Do you guys get access? SANS/ISC is reporting problems with access: https://isc.sans.edu/forums/diary/Craigslist+Outage/18987 |
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 24 05:16PM -0500 On 11/24/2014 4:14 PM, Jerry Peters wrote: >> Do you guys get access? > SANS/ISC is reporting problems with access: > https://isc.sans.edu/forums/diary/Craigslist+Outage/18987 It is working for me both the top level page and the Washington, D.C. page. -- Rick |
RobertMacy <robert.a.macy@gmail.com>: Nov 24 11:06PM -0700 On Mon, 24 Nov 2014 14:14:53 -0700, Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid> wrote: >> Do you guys get access? > SANS/ISC is reporting problems with access: > https://isc.sans.edu/forums/diary/Craigslist+Outage/18987 whew! thanks! |
josephkk <joseph_barrett@sbcglobal.net>: Nov 24 06:45PM -0800 On Sat, 22 Nov 2014 03:03:18 +0000 (UTC), Tom Wilson >http://i61.tinypic.com/1234ltl.jpg >http://i62.tinypic.com/30vhu76.jpg >http://i57.tinypic.com/2ptbg2d.jpg Most any springy material. Doesn't have to be metal, bamboo and other woody materials work fine as well. Will self form onto decent circles. ?-) |
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Nov 24 11:58AM -0800 I also bet the crystal or its associated caps (if any). Another bet would be some residual resine or PCB protector turning conductive with age. |
whomi151@gmail.com: Nov 24 11:06AM -0800 Hello I was interested too. I find that chip interested from the module that i buy over ebay. This is the exact component that you looking for. http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlv61220.pdf Kind Regards |
Jon Germany <roadrash4@gmail.com>: Nov 24 10:41AM -0800 can anyone help with service manual or schematic l for old Amstrad PC2086? thanks Jon |
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