| sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com | Google Groups |  |
| Unsure why you received this message? You previously subscribed to digests from this group, but we haven't been sending them for a while. We fixed that, but if you don't want to get these messages, send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
- Fan causing MW RFI - 4 Updates
- Recommended Automotive Code Scanning Tool or Software - 4 Updates
- slightly OT: anybody getting access to craigslist? - 1 Update
| Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 25 07:26PM On 24/11/2014 20:33, Tom Miller wrote: > found on switching power modules. Some can be clamped around the wires. You > will want to get all three leads through the core, L, N, and Ground. Maybe > even do a couple of turns if the core is large enough. I'll try that. Thanks. -- Jeff |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 05:22PM -0800 Jeff Layman wrote: > The only thing I can get in the next day or so is this delta suppression > filter: > http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/delta-suppression-filter-rg21x ** That should do OK. > > voltage, and the pitch of the noise on AM would vary with its speed. > Guess so. The fan often turns in the reverse direction for a second or > so when switched on, then corrects itself. ** Really ? What makes you sure it is a DC motor ? DBDC motors are really AC motors with in-built electronic drives. Motors that power ceiling fans are normally multi-pole induction types - fully reversible. > No. The 999kHz local radio transmitter (1kW) is about 15 km away.. ** So the available signal is weak. > The fan is in a new metal-framed conservatory. ** So the signal inside is very weak. ... Phil |
| Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Nov 26 08:17AM On 26/11/2014 01:22, Phil Allison wrote: >> so when switched on, then corrects itself. > ** Really ? > What makes you sure it is a DC motor ? See under "Energy efficiency" on page 3 here: http://www.fantasiaceilingfans.com/content/pdf/fantasia-brochure-2014.pdf Also see top of page 2 and section 3 on page 10 here: http://www.fantasiaceilingfans.com/content/pdf/tau-manual.pdf > DBDC motors are really AC motors with in-built electronic drives. > Motors that power ceiling fans are normally multi-pole induction types - fully reversible. So it could be that the manufacturer calling it a "DC motor" is being a bit flexible with the definition? >> No. The 999kHz local radio transmitter (1kW) is about 15 km away.. > ** So the available signal is weak. Fairly so, but reception is quite acceptable when the fan is off. >> The fan is in a new metal-framed conservatory. > ** So the signal inside is very weak. Indeed, even with a loop aerial connected. -- Jeff |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 26 03:15AM -0800 Jeff Layman wrote: > > What makes you sure it is a DC motor ? > See under "Energy efficiency" on page 3 here: > http://www.fantasiaceilingfans.com/content/pdf/fantasia-brochure-2014.pdf ** So my original hunch was correct. Some modern ceiling fans use low voltage( ie 24V) BLDC motors operating from a SMPS - all crammed into the same housing. Why one would run in the wrong direction before correcting itself is a tad mysterious. > >> No. The 999kHz local radio transmitter (1kW) is about 15 km away.. > > ** So the available signal is weak. > Fairly so, but reception is quite acceptable when the fan is off. ** You have missed the point. > >> The fan is in a new metal-framed conservatory. > > ** So the signal inside is very weak. > Indeed, even with a loop aerial connected. ** Assuming the fan has not developed a fault since you installed it, the RFI you are hearing may well be within legal limits for such appliances. The AM and HF (short wave) bands do not enjoy the same regulatory protection as FM and TV reception does - so things like SMPSs and motor drives are permitted interfere somewhat with AM receivers in the same premises. Having only weak signals available in the vicinity makes it so much worse. Is the fan motor in a plastic enclosure ? A grounded, metal one would be far better at supressing AM band noise. .... Phil |
| Beloved Leader <Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com>: Nov 25 10:27AM -0800 First of all, is this the right forum? If there's an automotive electronics forum, then I apologize for this post, and I'll ask over there. I would only use this once or twice a year. Right now, I go to the AutoZone, where they come out and run the scan with some Actron scanner for free. Still, I like owning my own tools, and if I'm going to buy something, it should be nice stuff, not just something that sort of works. I have laptops and desktops that run on Win XP and up. My newest Mac does not have an Intel chipset. I have OS X 10.3.9 installed on it, and I believe that nothing past OS X 10.4 could be installed on it. I am aware that current diagnostic software can interface with Android and iOS devices. I have a 1989 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. It has OBD I, so it might not be possible to get software that works with that, at least not easily. My mom's car is a 2000 Saturn wagon, and it runs on OBD II. What software or scanner do you have? What do you wish you had bought instead? What would you buy for your next device or software? That's what I want to hear. Again, I hope I am not OT. Best wishes, and thank you. |
| all2001@spambog.com (Wolfgang Allinger): Nov 25 06:05PM -0300 On 25 Nov 14 at group /sci/electronics/repair in article aa8da7d2-e861-4b59-998c-577d34734909@googlegroups.com >First of all, is this the right forum? No, you should try BloodyDumbLeader.Korea.North Saludos (an alle Vernünftigen, Rest sh. sig) Wolfgang -- Wolfgang Allinger, anerkannter Trollallergiker :) reply Adresse gesetzt! Ich diskutiere zukünftig weniger mit Idioten, denn sie ziehen mich auf ihr Niveau herunter und schlagen mich dort mit ihrer Erfahrung! :p (lt. alter usenet Weisheit) iPod, iPhone, iPad, iTunes, iRak, iDiot |
| mroberds@att.net: Nov 26 04:48AM > First of all, is this the right forum? If there's an automotive > electronics forum, then I apologize for this post, and I'll ask over > there. news:rec.autos.tech , but I haven't checked it in quite a while, so I don't know if it's any good. There might be a Saturn forum on a web site or something. > I would only use this once or twice a year. Right now, I go to the > AutoZone, where they come out and run the scan with some Actron > scanner for free. You might ask if they will rent a scanner like they rent other tools - basically you put the purchase price down as a deposit, take it home for a day or two, and then return it in the same condition as you got it for a 100% refund. (Some other auto parts stores do this too.) Even if you buy a scanner outright later, this might let you play with a couple of different ones before you do. > I have laptops and desktops that run on Win XP and up. For retrieving and clearing codes, I have always run my scanners with Windows, either 98, 2000, or XP. I've never tried running one on any flavor of Mac, or on a phone. > I have a 1989 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. It has OBD I, so it might not > be possible to get software that works with that, at least not easily. I think a GM of that vintage will still have the "jump two pins in the ALDL connector to blink the Check Engine light" interface, and the scan tools of the day didn't give you a bunch more information than the light codes did, but I could be wrong. An alternative would be to prowl Ebay, Craigslist, etc for the original GM scan tool for it. I *think* the GM tool was/is named a "Tech 2", or possibly some other number than 2. > My mom's car is a 2000 Saturn wagon, and it runs on OBD II. > What software or scanner do you have? I have a couple of older RS-232 products from http://www.obdscan.net/ . The first one (bought around 2001 or 2002) came as a kit and had some of the thinnest traces I've ever seen on a PC board, but it did work when I soldered it together. It was able to successfully talk to my '01 Toyota, as well as a '96 Suzuki. It could only speak the protocol that Japanese cars of that era used (ISO-9141, I *think*) so it couldn't talk to American vehicles of similar vintages. After three or four years, that one died, and I bought the then-current version from the same vendor. It came assembled and could speak all three of the then-current protocols. It could talk to the same two cars as above, plus I'm pretty sure I used it on an early-00's Chevy and it worked as well. It could not talk to an '05 Chevy that used CAN, the latest protocol. I still use this one once or twice a year. I can't remember which one it was, but the RS-232-side protocol was documented for one of these. I wrote my own software (under DOS (!)) to read a few values and after a little experimentation I got it to work. The provided software, at least for the ones I have, is a Visual Basic extravaganza. It can read data, read trouble codes, and clear trouble codes, but don't push it harder than that. I have no experience with the software they ship with newer tools. I had trouble with a download from the Web site once, so I emailed the company and got a prompt reply with working zip file attached. (As far as I can tell, it's a one-man band.) > What do you wish you had bought instead? Sometimes I think it would be nice to have a self-contained tool, rather than one that plugs into a PC/laptop... if a laptop is not available, sometimes it is challenging to get a desktop PC close enough to the car. I don't really use it enough for that to be an issue, though. > What would you buy for your next device or software? I'd talk to the independent mechanic that I take my Toyota to and see what he uses, if it's not the Toyota dealership tool. I'd also check with some enthusiast forums to see what they like. Make sure to get one that speaks all the protocols. From '95 until about '04 or so, I think there were three (ISO-9141, VPW, PWM), and then in about '04 or '05, CAN was added. One thing that I don't know the complete details on: All scan tools should be able to read the mandatory [0] powertrain trouble codes. But in an effort to lock out home mechanics^W^W^W^Wprovide better diagnostic info, some manufacturers have sub-codes of the mandatory codes, and either 1) only the manufacturer's scan tool can read the sub-codes, or 2) anybody can read the sub-codes but the meanings of the sub-codes may or may not be documented in the service manual. (There are/were lawsuits against the automakers to compel them to release *all* their data.) Also, as far as I know, it isn't often possible to re-flash or otherwise tweak your ECM with a "generic" OBD-II scan tool. Even though at least one of the standards specifies a way to authenticate to the ECM, I suspect many manufacturers do their own thing in this department. As a random note, there is +12 V power on the OBD-II connector, and the standard says it has to supply at least 4 A. So you can hang a fair amount of stuff off of it if you want to. (I can't remember if the connector has +12 V even if the vehicle is +24 V.) Matt Roberds [0] in the US, anyway |
| Leif Neland <leif@neland.dk>: Nov 26 07:05AM +0100 Beloved Leader forklarede den 25-11-2014: > should be nice stuff, not just something that sort of works. > I am aware that current diagnostic software can interface with Android and > iOS devices. I've got a bluetooth ODB2, which I can read on my laptop or Android. With that I discovered that the odometer shows a couple of km/h's too much, while the ODB2-output agrees with my GPS. Annoying, that it is not possible to stop this deliberate lying to me. -- Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske beslutning at undlade det. |
| Joe Chisolm <jchisolm6@earthlink.net>: Nov 25 08:31PM -0600 On Mon, 24 Nov 2014 12:27:14 -0700, RobertMacy wrote: > I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes > up error, now for over 3 hours! > Do you guys get access? They got their DNS hijacked Over on [dns-operations]: > On 24/11/14 13:38, Brad Volz wrote:> >> The craigslist account at one of our registrars was compromised and the >> NS records migrated away from their rightful home. That issue has since -- Chisolm Republic of Texas |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 3 topics"
Post a Comment