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Peter Easthope <petereasthope@gmail.com>: Nov 26 08:28PM -0800 A photo of the unusual RS232C connector on Tatung tablet, TWN-5213 CU, is here.   http://carnot.yi.org/TatungTWN5213RS232.png   The smallest increment on the steel rule is 1 mm. The connector is essentially a socket about 20 mm x 4 mm. Centered in that is a plastic blade with 8 contacts on each side. Adjacent contacts are about 1.6 mm apart. The round hole on the left is the CPU reset.   Can anyone ID this connector? I've never seen another and haven't found it in Google Images.   Thanks, ... Peter E.

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 27 08:38AM -0500 In article <5a3ed5bf-4b6a-43b0-ac6c-73ddebe67b3f@googlegroups.com>, petereasthope@gmail.com says...   > The smallest increment on the steel rule is 1 mm. The connector is essentially a socket about 20 mm x 4 mm. Centered in that is a plastic blade with 8 contacts on each side. Adjacent contacts are about 1.6 mm apart. The round hole on the left is the CPU reset.   > Can anyone ID this connector? I've never seen another and haven't found it in Google Images.   > Thanks, ... Peter E.   You most likely need to get a break out cable that has the serial port and other things on it.. Something that you get from the manufacturer.   Jamie

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 27 01:56PM On 27/11/2014 04:28, Peter Easthope wrote:   > The smallest increment on the steel rule is 1 mm. The connector is essentially a socket about 20 mm x 4 mm. Centered in that is a plastic blade with 8 contacts on each side. Adjacent contacts are about 1.6 mm apart. The round hole on the left is the CPU reset.   > Can anyone ID this connector? I've never seen another and haven't found it in Google Images.   > Thanks, ... Peter E.   Assuming more than curiosity Are the contacts sprung? If so then I made up something similar, outragiously expensive proprietary otherwise, from some scrap PC-slot card edge fingers, of right spacing. Then appropriate packing as a bit too thin as they stood and some empty surround from a regular connector. When you know all the contacts are good and the surround fits registered, glue the lot together

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 27 09:25AM -0500 In article <m57ahv$gg7$1@dont-email.me>, diverse@tcp.co.uk says... > too thin as they stood and some empty surround from a regular connector. > When you know all the contacts are good and the surround fits > registered, glue the lot together   The more I think about it, being a tablet and all, I would bet that it's the connector for the docking station.   Jamie

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 27 08:39AM -0800 "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." wrote in message news:MPG.2ee0fe4c5a0f075e989b41@news.eternal-september.org...   > ...being a tablet and all, I would bet > it's the connector for the docking station.   I thought the same thing (really!), but said nothing because it looks like an awfully sparse interface. But you're probably right.

NOSFERATU <mariosalinas2009@yahoo.com.mx>: Nov 26 07:39PM -0800 I'm a vampire and I need to drink two liters of human blood per week. Had a provider in a hospital but recently passed away. Due to increasing health restrictions is getting harder to get it. Any advice on where to find it.

Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Nov 24 09:14PM > I've been trying main and specific craiglist websites and EVERYone comes > up error, now for over 3 hours!   > Do you guys get access?   SANS/ISC is reporting problems with access: https://isc.sans.edu/forums/diary/Craigslist+Outage/18987

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 24 01:58PM I desoldered the 2 ground pins. Then tried just finger pressure to pull out the remaining pins. I assume from my previous twisting, or maybe from being bashed in use at some time. The brass pins failed. These are 1.6mm diameter and the pcb holes are for that size. But these Neutrik XLR would seem to be made for old-style hand-wiring then solder, not pcb use. There is a turned recess ring on each pin, down to 1mm diameter, to take a loop or twist of wire before soldering. This recess is the thickness of the pcb. With the pins sheared off now and the remnant stubs still in the pcb , you can see that no solder at all has passed into the .3mm gap around the pins. So in effect the 3 main pins (not the frame ground pin) are only "surface mount" soldered , not through-board soldered, so mechanically weak joints regardless of use of PbF. The shoulder length of the frame ground pin is right for pcb mounting, so are these recessed pins intended for pcb with eyelets , but not used here, or for handwiring?

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 02:30AM I avoid keyboards whenever I can. They are heavy, have too many screws in, and take up too much bench space. On this occasion however, I was asked to look at a Korg LP-350 electric piano by a music store that I have only recently started doing work for, so had to be 'accommodating' to ...   The shop owner said it was dead, and that he had tried another power supply already. I figured that this might be something nice and straightforward like a socket busted out of the board. When it arrived, I was delighted to see that the socket and on - off switch were located in a largish 'pod' secured to the bottom of the unit with just 6 screws. So I stood the unit vertically, leaned against the bench, and removed the pod. In fact, the entire electronics seems to be on a single board in this enclosure, with just the keyboard itself and the control switchery being in the main part of the cabinet. The problem turned out to be some miniscule little sm device in series with the DC connector centre pin. It is too small to have any value marked on it, but does have the designation "R" on the board so maybe its a tiny safety resistor (anyone know ?)   So to get it going initially and check for any other problems, I hung a 1 ohm fusible R across the pads. This restored life to the LEDs on the control section, so I hooked it to an amp. And this is where it got odd - for me at least.   Some notes sort of worked, although you had to pound them quite hard. Other notes didn't work at all. Then when you went back to one that worked a few seconds ago, now it didn't. Clearly, it's a keyboard with full velocity sensing, but this seemed very arbitrary as well. My heart was just beginning to sink when I decided to turn it 'right way up' i.e. horizontal, just in case. And Lo! Then it all worked. Every note was fine, and the 'touch' behaved perfectly. Now I don't pretend to understand keyboards, but as far as I can recall, all the ones that I've previously seen have either been based on bus bars and springy contacts, or rubber keymats.   So how is this one done such that it won't work when the unit is standing upright on its end ?   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 11:09AM "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message news:xvudncudyIi58_HJnZ2dnUVZ8nednZ2d@bt.com... > Sometimes these things will have a reverse diode shunt to ground instead > of a series one. Whatever, there should be reverse polarity protection > there somewhere, not a fuse or resistor.   There is both. Centre pin goes straight to this tiny device. It is designated R4. Off the back side of it, there is a small ceramic decoupler to deck, and a series choke, L2, the back side of which trundles off to the single pole on / off switch at the front edge of the board, as well as having another little ceramic decoupler to deck. The return from the switch comes all the way back to the rear of the board again, where it fetches up at the arse end of a series protection diode, D3, marked 348A. The cathode of this diode is then the main power distribution point into the 3v3 regulator etc. So the device that has failed is definitely some very low value series element, and I'm still thinking resistor, as it is called "R4". I too tried Googling without finding anything. The unit is needed for Friday, so not finding anything definitive on what the device is, or its value / type, I think I am going to stick with a low value fusible R. The volts drop is very small across the 1 ohm that I hung in there. I might go down to 0.47 ohms, just in case it draws enough to increase that drop under some circumstances. Can't see anything that looks particularly current-thirsty on the board, though. > The hammers give a realsitic impression of how a real piano feels to play, > something a lot of pianists like.   > Trouble is it makes the keyboard the weight of a small car.   Yes, I think you are probably right. The keys do have that mechanically 'weighted' feel of inertia, and it *is* the weight of a small car ... :-)   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 02:09AM > but cannot now find it or could you at least repeat the model number. > What was the failure in the board, could you tell whether over-current or > over-voltage, any deliberate track thinnings for tell-tales.   It's a Supersonic 100 head. The board failed to produce any 'controlled' bias to the valves, and all four grids were at -89 volts. It looks as though it works by measuring the voltage across four low value Rs in the cathodes by using A-D inputs on the microcontroller on the board. The bias is then produced by feeding PWM signals from four port pins to driver transistors followed by filter caps. In the case of this board, the supply volts, reset pin etc were all at correct levels, but the micro did not produce any output. You could not even measure any clock at the xtal pins. No evidence of any cause was visible. Board was pristine. Double sided surface mount, and all examined under strong magnification, but no signs of any damaged components.   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 01:30AM > Cheers,   > Gareth.   In reply to everyone, the bias did move with the valve - it was one of the first things that I checked, so the board was 'doing its thing' and balancing this valve into the other three. Information that I have since found out today, indicates that one valve was changed on its own a few months back, so I guess that's probably the one that is different, so I think I'm going to add this new knowledge to what the man at Fender said about them having had board problems, and that the new board was a pre-packaged spare, and declare it "good to go" !   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 01:55AM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:62358070-9217-4fe4-ba11-3f88805e8b67@googlegroups.com... > Arfa Daily wrote:   >> So, the nonsense bias board arrived.   > ** The "nonsense" is all coming from you - fuckhead.     The board is a nonsense piece of design. It's not needed, and only adds another layer of complexity into an item that is needed to be robust and reliable. For most purposes in this type of equipment, fixed bias at the simplest or single level-pot and sometimes a balance pot is all that is required. Owners should not be arsing about changing valves in the first place, and particularly should not be mixing types.     >> matched quad - we didn't fit them - but clearly they aren't, quite.   > ** One valve, 1 volt out is about as near to matched as any 4 output > valves I have ever seen or ever need to be.     You miss the point as always by running your stupid mouth before engaging that pathetic walnut of a brain. Fucking dope       > Jesus Christ you are a neurotic fuck.     Bwaaaahhhaaahhhaaaa !!!!! That from YOU ??!!! Neurotic ? Fuckhead ? That would be YOU with bells on ...     >> quite a bit.   > ** The 4 bias currents are IDENTICAL !!   > You stupid twat.   Philip. Mirror ...       >> owner replaces all four tubes now for a properly matched quad.   > ** FFS - there is nothing improper about the set you have.     I didn't say that there WAS. I was just examining the possibility that there MIGHT be. But then you don't actually read and understand anything before you run that dopey gob of yours, do you ?   >> signs of any flashovers or other nasties going on, but I still have that >> niggling doubt that something might have twatted that board,   > ** Fender have already told you the boards fail all on their own.     So they did. But that doesn't mean that they don't also fail as a result of something else as well. There was no serial number identification offered by Fender in regards of this bad batch. Just a statement that they had had a bad batch "around that time" when told its age. Therefore, this one may or may not have come from that batch. I can't say for sure, and YOU most certainly can't ...     >> and that one of >> the outputs clearly doesn't quite match the other three.   > ** Twaddle.     Bollocks. If the board arrives at a solution that sets the bias near as a gnats cock identical on three of the valves, and sets the fourth a volt or so different, then that 'odd one' clearly doesn't QUITE (look the word up if you're not sure) match the other three     >> looks like have already been replaced not long ago ... :-\   > ** If it ain't broke, don't fix it.   > Only crooks do that.   And you would know, of course ... Now go take your meds, and shut the fuck up. Twat.   Arfa

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Nov 18 09:29PM -0500 "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:nZSaw.1124894$Fy6.125771@fx25.am4... > surface mount, and all examined under strong magnification, but no signs > of any damaged components.   > Arfa Any numbers on the cpu?

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Nov 18 11:22PM -0500 "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:DvTaw.655114$J62.246927@fx03.am4... > 101C6   > This appears to agree with what it says on the schematic   > Arfa   Put this whole number in a search to get the datasheet.   STM32F101C6   It is an ARM Cortex 32 bit CPU with 32k bytes of flash. I don't know how successful you would be copying the firmware over to a new chip..

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 19 09:27AM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:605af8cc-4dd2-4781-8eba-904ae94f4163@googlegroups.com...   >> The board is a nonsense piece of design.   > ** No it is not.       So, would that be more or less so than your opinion of the HK board ? And I quote from your post -   >> > valves I have ever seen or ever need to be.   >> You miss the point   > ** There was no point get - you lunatic.   Not in your wobble-eyed head ...       >> > ** FFS - there is nothing improper about the set you have.   >> I didn't say that there WAS.   > ** You did, three or four times.   Err, no, I didn't ...       > ** Believe them.       >> But that doesn't mean that they don't also fail as a result of >> something else as well.   As I said ...       > ** Sheer, paranoid fear of the new.   Oh fuck off back under your stone you obnoxious arsehole. I've been in this game for 45 years. Nothing has come along in that time to make me paranoid, and this isn't going to be the first       > You will find there is a very high resistance between the output valve > grids and the bias PCB circuitry and the cathode resistors are protected > from over-current too.   There is a couple of hundred k. Hardly a "very high resistance".       > What a dickhead.   You know, you really are a sad fool, Philip. Just about any thread that anyone starts that runs for longer than a couple of days, sooner or later, there you are running your dumb - and usually foul - gob off. The trouble with you is that you have this pathetic need to try to sound superior to everyone, when in truth, you are often at least misguided, if not downright wrong. Just because something is your opinion, it doesn't necessarily make you right and everyone else wrong. Your main failing is that you do not read things properly, and then go off on one of your ill-conceived rants, based on what you *thought* you read. When your error is pointed out, you then start madly snipping in an attempt to cover up what *you* said in reply to what the poster *actually* said, and then start leveling a tirade of abuse , peppered with expletives, capital letters, exclamation marks and asterisks, at anyone who dares to challenge you. Some of the more 'delicate' posters cave in at this, but I don't know why you keep trying it with me. You've tried this crap with me on many occasions, and I would have thought that you would have worked out by now that I am not intimidated by you. But then again, maybe your brain is either so faulty, so drug-rotted, or so alcohol-soaked that you can't remember from one day to the next who you have already unsuccessfully had a go at.   Go get some help. Seriously.   And, unless anyone else has got any sensible comments or questions, I'm done with this now. The amp is fixed. I'm reasonably happy that there are no further issues, and it will be returned to its owner today.   Arfa

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 19 08:40AM On 18/11/2014 11:52, Pat wrote: >> . It is away from roads, so daftlogic.com etc and old OS maps (before >> they got precious with their data) and proper spot heights, is no use.   > Google Earth?   I'll try again later today. ISTR that whan it first came out, I tried it on a piece of ground with known survey-level and it came back rubbish. Like anything based on google maps, (just linear interpolation between road junctions so doesn't catch humps and dips )

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 19 08:45AM > contours and 10 m minor ones if you zoom in enough, at least in England > and Scotland.   > Matt Roberds   I've tried that, in effect. Known survey-level piece of ground and for ten minute sessions on 3 days. However I averaged the results, the answer was no better than .5m or so of the known surveyed level. I wanted to repeat this on some day and time with known good zenithal satellites, get a good agrreing result, and then move to the unknown patch of ground on another day, but again zenithal for that spot, it is not nearby to me

RobertMacy <robert.a.macy@gmail.com>: Nov 19 06:17AM -0700 > attempt to clean them when the issue is wear.   > Yours truly, > Mr. Klay Anderson, D.A.,Q.B.E.   I believe wear is involved, but what really caught my attention was that the least used phone is the one that does NOT work well. Swapped out so it got daily use, and it came back a bit and the other phone has quit - making me think/hope maybe there is a 'crud/corrosion' build up? And, these phones may be salvageable.

jhanley681@gmail.com: Nov 26 01:04PM -0800 if you supply m model number i maybe able to help you as i am tv tech and have a lot of lcd/plasma manuals keep in mind i cant promise i will have the manual you need but mabye able to help you find it .   james

Bill F <anon@anonumost.org>: Nov 26 02:32PM -0500 I have a 1991 and a 1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. Your OCC and mine are too old for OBD2 which came out in 1996. A scanner won't tell you anything that just jumpering the OBD connector with a paper clip and counting flashes of the indicator light will tell you. Read about it here http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ -- Bill Freeman

jjimshaw@gmail.com: Nov 26 11:10AM -0800 On Monday, April 18, 2011 4:19:25 PM UTC-4, Amanda Riphnykhazova wrote:   ========== I've been searching for replacement batteries for a long time. I've owned three sets of the Sony MDR-IF5 headphones. They're simply GREAT. I love them because they are lightweight and the sound quality suits me fine. Good treble. But my last set is 22 years old, still running on the original battery, and when it's done for I'll be really sad. I think I will see if someone can substitute any kind of battery, even a wired dry cell, so I can keep using it. --Jim, Louisville KY

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 26 11:30AM -0800 Amanda, please post your e-mail address (or send it to me), and I'll send you the service manual at no charge.   Forgive me, but I found it in less than two minutes.

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