- Ampex F4460 reel to reel. - 2 Updates
- are there any cool window candle incandescent bulbs? - 3 Updates
- An early Christmas present... - 2 Updates
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 25 09:30AM -0500 Arfa Daily wrote: > chemicals. I had one and it lasted years and years. When it ran out, I > really mourned as I was unable to find it still for sale anywhere. As soon > as Crimbo is out of the way, I will be ordering a can ! :-) I took a quart glass bottle to a local print shop and they filled it with platen cleaner for $10. They buy it in 55 gallon drums. Smaller shops buy it in five gallon cans. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 25 09:35AM -0500 Tim Schwartz wrote: > flywheel with some epoxy so it stays where it it supposed to. > If this is an F44, contact me off-group. I might have a manual for the > thing somewhere in the archives. I saw a lot of loose flywheels on cheap 8-track tape decks around 1970. We would pull the capstan and flywheel, then use a small center punch and hammer to put four equally spaced dents near the capstan, on the bottom side of the flywheel. -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge. |
| Sam Seagate <saseag44419@yahoo.com>: Dec 24 04:12PM -0500 A couple of years back, I made some window candles for the house and one candle for each window. Each candle light is a cheap LED bulb that I pulled from a string of LED candle bulb lights that I got at the local Walmart. Problem is that my wife, who I made these for, doesn't like the dimness of the result and wishes for brighter candles. Initially, before starting the LED project, I tried standard candle incandescents but since the candles are in front of curtains and blinds enough heat was generated to start burning them so I came up with the LEDs. Yesterday, I tried increasing the current to one of the LED's (from 17 to 35mA) and the brightness doubled but still far short of neighbor's incandescents. So, I could replace the LEDs I guess with 5 W equivalent LED ones I see on the web these days, but they seem expensive. Are there any candle incandescents that burn cool especially when up against something like curtains? Thanks! |
| dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Dec 24 02:26PM -0800 In article <m7fa6s$bkp$1@dont-email.me>, >on the web these days, but they seem expensive. Are there any candle >incandescents that burn cool especially when up against something like >curtains? Incandescents are all about the same efficiency (10% or so) with the rest of the power going into heat. Halogens are a bit more efficient but not by all that much. The LED "candle" bulbs I see listed at Home Depot are 25-40 watt "equivalent". If your neighbors have incandescents of a similar light output then they're probably dissipating about that much heat, which is not something I'd want to have pushed up close against a curtain. If the curtain got snagged over top of the bulb you might have heat damage to the curtain, or possibly even a fire after a while. Candle bulbs have small bases, and can't be dissipating much of the heat that way... almost all of it must be coming out through the envelope. They're gonna be toasty. I believe the pricey "5 W equivalent" LEDs you are referring to, are actually "5 W consumption". They put out a whole lot more light than a 5-watt incandescent bulb... these are the LEDs used in tactical flashlights, which on full power can be quite blinding. |
| John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 25 05:34AM -0800 On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 4:12:22 PM UTC-5, Sam Seagate wrote: > on the web these days, but they seem expensive. Are there any candle > incandescents that burn cool especially when up against something like > curtains? Check ebay; you can find LEDS in any size, color, and power you want. Very cheap, but they'll take a couple of weeks to get from China. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 24 10:11AM -0800 On 12/23/2014, 7:24 AM, Jeff Layman wrote: > switch, and the other pole was unused. So I just soldered a wire bridge > across to the unused pole, and the switch now works perfectly again. > But how long that pole will last is another matter... Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor it is anyone's guess as to how long this will last. WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo. Good luck! John :-#(# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 24 06:54PM -0800 John Robertson wrote: > Well, considering that WD-40 is a rust inhibitor ... ** Only so because metal objects covered in oil tend not to rust or corrode since atmospheric water and oxygen are largely excluded. WD-40 is more correctly characterised as a hydrocarbon grease solvent that also lubricates. > WD-40 dries up over time and turns to goo. ** No more than a light mineral oil does. ... Phil |
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