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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 26 11:16AM -0500 William Sommerwerck wrote:   > PS: The January, 1963 issue has an article I well-remember -- building a > vacuum-tube stereo FM signal generator!   > * Which is appropriate, but not exactly what I was looking for.     https://archive.org/details/Pop195710 has quite a few Popular Electronics magazine scans in PDF.     -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Scott Smith <scott93727@gmail.com>: Dec 26 01:34AM -0800 SchematicPro, Custom Design Electrical Schematics Exstensive Parts Library, Import Export Schematics Save in many formats including graphic files. https://sites.google.com/site/electelectelecttech/

Scott Smith <scott93727@gmail.com>: Dec 26 07:49AM -0800 SchematicPro, Custom Design Electrical Schematics Exstensive Parts Library, Import Export Schematics Save in many formats including graphic files https://sites.google.com/site/electelectelecttech/

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 25 05:12PM -0800 On 12/24/2014, 6:54 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** No more than a light mineral oil does.   > ... Phil   Well, my experience with equipment that has had WD-40 sprayed on it by loving owners is the picot points etc all gum up and we have to heat them up to take them apart so we can clean out the gummed up goop.   In EVERY case when asked these machines had WD-40 sprayed on the workings.   I have yet to see other games of similar vintage that have not been sprayed with WD-40 gum up anywhere near as bad that we have to heat the parts to separate them. And I've been servicing arcade games for almost 40 years.   Hence my personal vendetta against the use of WD-40 as a lubricant.   It would be better to run some proper tests comparing WD-40 mixed with various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with some heat. I keep thinking I should do this, and perhaps I will soon...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 25 05:17PM -0800 On 12/25/2014, 5:12 PM, John Robertson wrote: > various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with > some heat. I keep thinking I should do this, and perhaps I will soon...   > John :-#)#   I meant pivot points...   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Dec 25 09:12PM -0600 On 12/25/2014 7:17 PM, John Robertson wrote:   >> Hence my personal vendetta against the use of WD-40 as a lubricant.   >> It would be better to run some proper tests comparing WD-40 mixed with >> various oils vs. leaving the oils on their own and drying them out with   It seems that was a test someone is/was running, there was a thread in sed, seb or abse in the last three months. Mikek

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 26 01:37AM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:f39cba74-e173-463d-8490-9e1d86c65f1d@googlegroups.com... > depends on a critical temp being reached.   > The answer is, it protects the user from possible electric shock by > preventing overheating damage to the transformer.   Well it certainly protects the transformer and rest of the unit from catching fire, which is probably all the manufacturer is interested in. Whilst a separate 'true' fuse in the primary might save the transformer from damage in the event of a short or lesser overload on the secondary side, manufacturers aren't going to be the slightest bit interested in the cost versus advantage of this, when they can buy a transformer that is already intrinsically safe by virtue of having a thermal fuse in its primary.   Arfa

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 26 01:47AM "KenO" <kenitholson@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:fc39a06b-55c6-4d05-a5b9-83b19a43bf2b@googlegroups.com...   > Arfa Daily: "If the unit uses a 'figure 8' AC socket, this is the first > place to look...." Again what tests do you suggest I run? Can I post a > JPEG of the AC socket?   I thought I was fairly clear, Ken. "The first place to look" means exactly that. I then went on to say "It is extremely common for these to go bad jointed, often on just about every pin." So, if it uses a 'figure 8' power lead - obvious, because it looks like a figure "8" end on - then open up the unit until you can see where the socket is soldered into a printed circuit board, then engage your mk 1 eyeball and look at the joints on the socket pins to see if any of them are cracked around. If you don't understand what I am meaning or what that would look like, then I think that you are probably pissing in the wind believing that you will be able to correctly diagnose and repair it. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but welcome to the reality of repairing electronic items like this ...   Arfa

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